As a Millwright, I did not expect to gain much from viewing this. Surprise! I never packed a needle roller like that, and I love the technique. Hydraulic displacement. And I enjoyed the common sense foray into the greases. Very well presented. Thanks! Mark
I just did an upper wheel maintenance on my new to me 1956 Magna bandsaw. Your tips were right on but I found a third retainer that I don’t think you mentioned. My upper wheel is retained by one of those thin spiral springs like the one in the headstock (belt tensioner as I remember). Great videos, all of them. 👍👍
Ok...I’m all set. In the last few days since I first watched this video: ✅ WD-40 degreaser ✅ Small tube of grease ✅ BS cover off, blade off, clip off, wheel cleaned of years of dust, degreaser sprayed on the bearing Today, greasing and refitting the wheel & putting on a BRAND NEW blade! Wow, wow, wow. Degreased & fully filled the upper bearing & thoroughly cleaned everything up. Installed a brand new Wen 1/2 blade & wow. Cut beautiful perfectly straight lines on a standard 1 inch PT deck board. Adjusted all the guide/cooling blocks. Thanks for all the tips. Next purchase a 3 pack (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch) of TimberWolf 72 inch blades .
I purchased my Shopsmith in 1977 and proceeded to drag it across the country and to Hawaii twice in the Navy. I have always been frustrated by Shopsmith's closed mouth technical help. Always willing to sell you parts but not so much on assistance. After watching your videos on the bandsaw I stripped the saw down, lubricated as your advised and checked all the alignments you demonstrated. The Bandsaw has never worked this good. Outstanding help. Thank you sincerely. I just hope you can work the same magic on the belt sander!
Glad to hear you finally found success. Oh yes, the belt sander is another awesome tool that might need some TLC. We'll get there. Thanks for watching, Scott
I changed the needle bearings about 4-5 years ago. There was a bearing outfit in Denver. Ordered - A few days later I had new bearings. Well done video. I really enjoy the historical tidbits. I think that outta be part of your videos. Not always stated but sometimes as an aside as the Shopsmith comments were.
Ya gotta enter you highest bid and live with the consequences. I won an auction just the other day and was happy that it didn't exceed my max, but I was prepared to let it go if it did. Always remember, never fall in love with something that can't love you back. Scott
I wish I had a garage! I have my Shopsmith in a room in my basement! And a basement with wide gaps in the concrete, so moving is difficult. I commented on Scott's video response to John malecki (misspelled, maybe) but I wish I could convey my appreciation to everyone who is trying to educate us Shopsmith owners. Scott is a wonderful teacher, he's probably forgotten more about Shopsmith than I ever know.
Don’t sell yourself short. We are all learning and hopefully ll passing on what we’ve learned. I have a buddy whose Shopsmith is in a stone walled basement (more like a crawl space) with a dirt floor, so I get what you are saying. It can be done, though. Scott
Great video! I bought a used Power Station with a bandsaw. That bandsaw is probably in great need of changing the grease in the bearings. Two questions: 1) Lower wheel procedure? 2) Lubrication tips for the Power Station. Enjoying your videos quite a bit! Thank you!
Hey Fred. Love your work. The lower bearing is sealed for life, so as long as it is running smoothly and quietly you should be fine. Oh, the Power Station... ! More to come. Scott
You posted your videos just in time, I just bought a 1950s greenie. All of the components and parts needed a good PM. Using your videos I was able to do about 90% of my maintenance on it and get it in good shape. I'm unfortunately waiting for a new belt so I can't use it right now, but the excitement is building.
Just helping with the youtube algorithm. You have very useful information, quite often not just pertaining to ShopSmith, but useful in other situations. Completely unrelated, but I don't know if this is just coincidence or what, but literally within 3 weeks of me buying a ShopSmith, three separate times, from 2 random people and 1 person I know, I was asked if I heard of ShopSmith and how useful they are. I just thought it was funny. I had never heard of them 3-5 weeks prior to buying one (this was a few months ago). Anyway, thanks as always. I'm excited for future videos. Keep em' comin!
Isn't that funny? I was looking into the possibility of buying a Jeep and as soon as I settled on a model I started noticing them everywhere! I wonder if you just have a Shopsmith look about you? Thanks for the algorithm help! Scott
Just found your channel and now enjoying binge watching some of your tutorials. I just wanted to share a sure-fire way to get those C-Clips off without sending them flying. While keeping my thumb on the back of the clip, I put the full bit of the screwdriver into one of the slots of the clip and rotate the bit so that it is prying on the central portion of the clip. I find that I have a whole lot more control over it, from the pencil-eraser size c-clips to the big daddys! The bigger the c-clip is, the bigger the screwdriver needs to be. I hope this helps somebody!
Thank you, thank you. I put new grease in the upper wheel today and it is quiet like the day I got my bandsaw. I got the same grease that you suggested but I got the small tube. You don't need to put the grease on your finger. The tube spout fits in the bearing hole. Keep up the great help!
Something I learned quite by accident while rebuilding Kirby vacuums is that modern magnetic parts dishes have strong enough magnets that they will grab a flying spring right out of the air. I had a height adjustment spring go flying toward another room one day. I saw it go. I thought it ended up in the bathroom, and I spent an hour looking for it. Kirby height adjustment springs are substantial, and if they fly, they tend to fly a long way. Later, I turned my parts dish over, and that spring was stuck to the magnet on the underside. The magnet had grabbed it out of the air as it flew. I pretty much keep one of those dishes close by when I'm pulling something that has a spring in it, as an extra line of defense against losing that spring. My grandfather had a Hertz franchise and a Hertz truck leasing franchise. He swore by white lithium grease and wouldn't use anything else in his vehicles. He taught me to use it, but never really explained why. That was good information.
Great content, and a very good presentation. Keep them coming. Can you test for run out .or any other specs to measure. Thanks for all your work and time to produce great content.
Super video - bought grease & WD40 - found that multiple ‘thumb’ to shaft & wheel installs resulted in clean grease residue eventually - eliminates contamination concerns.
I just picked up a 14” band saw that needed a little TLC. I stripped it down and made the necessary adjustments and repairs but my wheels are attached with what looks to be basic nut and bolt
I have a Shopsmith bandsaw (along with the mark V and the jointer) that sat unused in my basement from around 1994 to 2021. I was concerned about returning it to use. Your bandsaw videos have been a great guide. Do you have similar videos or information about returning my old shopsmith jointer into operation? When I returned it to my workshop I ran it very briefly to joint one side of a small board and it got unusually warm. There is probably some serious overdue maintenance. If you have you tubes or other info about returning the jointer into operation that would be very useful.
Hey Robert, that's awesome! I have done a couple jointer videos, but I'm not sure that I have a single video to point you to, so here's a playlist of my jointer vids: ua-cam.com/video/OvfKgNtxsR4/v-deo.html
Great info Scott. I've had my bandsaw for about 24 years and I have never greased the upper wheel. No wonder It screams. I have taken the wheel off, cleaned everything and it is ready for grease. Just waiting for it to get here. In a previous episode, I noticed that your headstock slides easier than mine does. Since I was in the cleaning stage, I took off my headstock, and cleaned and waxed all the tubes. I didn't find any wax build up in the headstock holes so I'm wondering why yours slides easier than mine. Yes, I waited an hour before I buffed the tubes and put it back together.
One thing that I always check is if the tubes are slightly bowed (most are) and if so, are they bow-side up? That and regular allocations of wax can help a lot.
I use a synthetic high-temperature wheel bearing grease. It's the same grease I use for my truck's wheel bearings which are roller bearings. A wash-bottle filled with mineral spirits works well for washing out the old grease.
Enjoy your videos just recently got a 510. Have wanted one for over 50 years. Have built your rip fence extension and added hf light to bandsaw. What material thicknes to make a zero clearance saw insert. Thank you
I make them with 1/4" tempered hardboard (Masonite). It makes them ever-so-slightly under sized, so I shim them with masking tape around the bottom edge. Works like a charm. I am intrigued with the zero clearance insert made by Jim Sevilla on his channel. It's worth a look. Scott
I'm back at it again and this video has led me to most all your other bandsaw tips, tricks and other things videos except for the new tires one. A blade break today brings me back to this vid. My top wheel has a slight wobble (wiggle if you prefer) to it leading me to think I might need new bearings. After removing the wheel, I "nail-checked" the spindle shaft and besides the neglected dirt buildup ring on it, I felt no wear ridges. Since the bearings were dry (long time neglect dry, very dry, bad Shopsmith owner dry) but otherwise looked good, is that little looseness a concern since, as you said in this or one of your videos, that it is designed for downward force? I had a hard time pulling the wheel off of the shaft, but hindsight now points to the debris buildup on the shaft end. I know it's a tolerance judgement, but how much wiggle (or wobble) is too much? Love the videos! I've found another Mark V I'm rejuvenating referencing your maintenance videos! Thanks again!
Hey Curt. Yeah, that’s a tough one to explore in a post comment! My advise is to pack it with grease and give it the ol’ proof is in the pudding’ test. As long as it runs “quietly” (again, that’s subjective) and smoothly (again) you should be good to go. You’ll know when it is time to change the bearings. Scott
Thanks! Guess what I'll do tomorrow since I've never... BTW how to lubricate BS guides, I tried spray aerosol graphite, not much luck, just used oil and I can now adjust them
Awe man... now I have to add to my yearly maintenance list... Grease the bandsaw wheel! Thanks Scott, I needed one more thing to piddle with!!! Actually, I thought it was a sealed bearing. I’ve never paid any attention to it. How about the lower wheel? Being a drive wheel, does it have a different type of bearing in the hub? Nice illustration of an important and overlooked task.
I hope you mean polyurethane. I have two sets that I plan on installing and comparing, so I'm reluctant to make a suggestion just yet. I purchased the orange tires from Shopsmith and the "Blue Max" tires from Amazon: amzn.to/3o2LPcM
Here's my go-to 1/4" Timber Wolf bandsaw blade: amzn.to/3lcuf4L This is the blade I use for resawing, the Timber Wolf 1/2" x 72" 4 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/34ShtU5 Hopefully that's enough to get you started. Scott
Hi, Another great video. Does renewing the grease eliminate the screaming that the BS makes? I noticed your SS makes the same screech as mine (Vid on 5th Oct 2020 ~ how to measure for length of bb blade). I use the bandsaw separately on the power station, but I had the same racket coming from the bs on the main SS unit (I think I have SSmk5, quite an early one) I have just fitted to the power pro upgrade!! Ps. I am in UK
It might, but then again it might not. It all depends upon where the screech is coming from. For sure it won’t hurt if it needs some grease. One of the unique features of the Shopsmith bandsaw is the auto track bearing assembly on the left-hand side of the machine. That adds two ball bearings more than your typical bandsaw, therefore you get a bit more noise. Those bearings are not expensive and can be easily replaced if the noise continues after applying grease to the upper wheel. Scott
I'm sure that my bandsaw hasn't had anything greased on it since the 60s. Time to take it apart! is there any other periodic maintenance on the bandsaw?
Yes, I would say that it'll need it. If it has the original bronze bushings in the auto-track wheels they will need either oil or graphite and may need to be cleaned. Scott
Thanks Bill. That seems to be the question of the week. It's sealed for life, which doesn't mean we never have to mess with it. I'll address this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
Thanks Scott for the videos! You are a life saver among SS owners. I performed this procedure, and had the same issue wherein my bearings fell out. I will order new needle bearings based on the link you have provided, but just need to double check: My bandsaw is Yuba, not Shopsmith. The Yuba seems identical to SS in every other way, so I would assume the needle bearings would be the same as well. Do you happen to know for sure?
I need to replace a couple of them and even have two different sets to install, but just haven't found the time. It's no different than on other bandsaws so for now I would suggest looking around UA-cam until you find a method that makes sense. If you choose to heat them in water just make sure not to exceed 120 deg fahrenheit of they may deform. Scott
Could be a couple things. Are these new blades? What brand of blade are you using? Heat and metal fatigue are the normal cause of blade breakage. This can be caused by long-time usage, but if the blades are new it can happen from running at too high speed or back friction from too tight guide blocks. Also, if the guide blocks aren't properly positioned they can impact the set of the teeth, which can cause damage. Those are my best bets. If you haven't tied Timber Wolf blade I highly recommend them. There's a link in the video description. Scott
my bandsaw has the old spring clip, which I would like to replace with either a c-clip or e-clip; I looked through the comments, but don't see any mention of size.
They’ve used a couple over the years, so my advice would be to pick up an inexpensive assortment. You can find them at Harbor Freight and on Amazon. Either option will cost you less than purchasing a single clip from Shopsmith.
Well, I took your advice. My band saw is only 50+ years old and never been maintained. To be fair, it wasn’t used the first 30 years. In any event, I took off the wheel and used a rag to clean the bearings. The bearings fell out! Can you send me a note on how to get a new bearing and how to replace? Thank you, my band saw will likely work better if I can fix it.
@@barneyheller Use a nail or flat head nail as a punch and place the screw through the hole and use it to tap the bearing out. Tap gently and slowly while moving to a new spot for every blow. If you tap in one spot too much the bearing will get crooked and could damage the wheel.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you for your help. I ended up using a torch and a wooden dowel ( not at the same time) to get the bearing out. It was really stuck. Now I’m waiting for the bearings so then I can watch all your videos. They are excellent!
Great video- I know it was posted some time ago but how much wobble should there be with the wheel on the shaft when not under tension of the blade? Is it naturally a little loose on that shaft or is that a sign of wear? I’ve had a couple used bandsaws and they both have what seems like some play on that shaft (ability to tip on that shaft, but no lateral thrust)
That’s a great question. I’m not comfortable with much play, so if the grease and the tension don’t remove the play, I’m going to replace the bearings or the entire wheel, if that’s more convenient. Scott
Thank you for the video. I just purchased my first Shopsmith from an estate sale. It came with about every attachment I can think of. Before I use it I want to do all the maintenance to it. Can the tire be replaced on the wheel?
There is a danger using degreaser to clean the bearing. The solvents may affect the new grease. An alternate method is to push out the old grease with new grease. This avoids the danger of compromising the qualities of your new grease.
Great tip. I wailed to mention that I usually rinse the bearing with a solvent and blow it out with compressed air, but even that can introduce water and contaminates. Scott
My all original 1981 SS bandsaw (cast iron table) doesn't have the eccentric tubes, just stop collars, unlike the jointer, belt sander, jig saw that do. The drive shaft on the bandsaw is horizontally misaligned with the upper shaft on the headstock by about 1/2". Everything else is in proper alignment except the bandsaw drive shaft. The drive coupler (original 1980) engages with the upper shaft on the headstock about half. Been using it that way for decades. It's odd that Shopsmith shipped it with the straight tubes back then.
Yeah, the eccentric tubes were a common sense solution that took a surprisingly long time to be introduced. If it's that far off I'd suggest getting a set, but even then you arn't going to correct 1/2" of misalignment. Scott
I remember seeing that on bandsaws that were coming in for service when I started there in '87. I seem to remember some that were balanced with Tinnerman clips added, but that may have been a user fix. Scott
Saw this video, really like your detailed advice. My shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel has a spiral ring. Took it off and need to replace it with either a snap ring or e clip since not able to find a spiral ring replacement part. Can you recommend what is the proper size of the e clip or snap ring to replace the spiral ring?
Thanks Chris. I believe that the groove is 1/2" and you can replace the spiral ring with a standard "e-clip". if you don't have one already, a set is a handy and inexpensive thing to have on hand: amzn.to/3AHm08D
great info as always. I forget - have you done a video about the tires? I've had to replace mine several times now, from original rubber that began to slip, to urethane "upgrades" from SS, to another mfg'ers. What're your recommendation and issues to be aware of?
Hey Hal. I have two sets of replacement tires but haven’t had the time to replace them. The reason I bought two different sets of the urethane tires is because I really don’t have a strong feeling about them. Glued, rubber tires are tried and true, but they won’t last forever, that’s for sure. What are your thoughts? Scott
No, the lower wheel is pressed onto an automotive water bump bearing assembly. That bearing is sealed. There are a few people who argue that it is possible to add grease to this type of bearing using pressure, but usually by the time that we see the issue, the bearing is too far gone. Shopsmith only sells this as an assembly, including a new wheel, tire, bearing and shaft. Some folks have had success with used parts sold on eBay, but I would start by checking to see what the new assembly costs from Shopsmith. Good luck, Mike! Scott
Hi Scott, while you are talking band saws, could you toss a straight edge across your aluminum table? Mine is low (maybe 1/16") on the side left of the bolt that fills the blade access channel. I'm looking at adding a brace along the bottom to push it up a bit. Have you seen warp issues on the aluminum BS tables? Thanks, Bob
They all have a little misalignment, which is why they added the bolt, but are you saying it’s off even after the bolt is installed? Perhaps you can add a fender washer under the table between the table and the knob?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, even with the bolt in place. This link shows a similar situation. I've tried to reach Dusty but no response to see how the story ended. forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19860&start=10 This bandsaw was in storage for a while and may not have been handled kindly. Can I just try to bend it back? Thanks, Bob
Hi Scott. I added the fender washer and indeed it does help. I'll need a larger one or a short metal strip. I also pulled the table completely off and checked out the back side for issues. Was surprised to find a small crack across the bottom which lines up with the warpage. It's interesting because the top finished side does not show the crack at all. The edge of the table does show the crack and what appears to be filler. From the paint over the filler this seems to be a factory "feature". I checked on E-Bay for a table replacement and the back side photo shows a ridge/crack in the same place. I won't be buying that one. I looked at the trunnions and they are not bent to exactly 90 degrees. Seem to be bent down more. I'm wondering if this is normal or if bending them to exactly 90 degrees and confirming the top of the trunnions are all flat would solve the issue. Or just add another washer under the low corner and call it good enough. Thanks again.
Thanks Scott, nicely done, as usual. Question:: I have not greased my upper wheel (but will be immediately). I notice a 'squeaking' sound when I run the bandsaw. Could this be the cause or is there another culprit?
@@MyGrowthRings thanks. I watched every video you have on the bandsaw last night, some for the second time, and I'm going to break it down today and get everything checked over, grease when I can and see how it does after that. Thanks for your prompt and helpful response.
The Viva Signature Cloth Paper Towels are disappearing from the face of the earth! I have purchased some off eBay at a shameful price. Should be in by end of this week. However while in Lowes today picking up their last can of Johnson Paste Wax, I spotted a box of intex Cloth-Like RAGS, Heavy Duty - Lint Free for $12.50. 300 Count. They are stretchy and clothe like. I believe this is the same as the Viva! Also, Min Wax Paste wax does not have naphtha to dissolve the old wax like Johnson's!
Scott, Hello. I'm relatively new to My Growth Rings but not to Shopsmith. I bought mine (Mark V and Bandsaw) in March of 1981. A bandsaw question for you. Is it easy enough (and can you show how) to replace the tensioning screw? The end of mine has worn to the point that the Shopsmith "tool kit" (5/32 Allen wrench) no longer has any grip to turn the tensioning screw so I have to use vice grips to now loosen and tighten the nut if I want to change blades. Also interested in your advise on upgrading to Carter guides vs the original upper and lower blocks. Love your videos. Thanks Tom L
Hey Tom. Before you go to the trouble of replacing it make sure that it isn't filled with compacted sawdust. I've seen that happen a time or two. As for replacing it, it's really simple. Just remove the the E-clip from the left side and screw the bolt forward. Scott
Hey Scott, I saw what look like small magnets behind your upper wheel. Are they magnets, if so what is the purpose? Just curious. Thanks great videos by the way, I found your videos while searching for videos on the shaper function. I have a need finally to use the shaper BUT some of the cutters have a 5/16" hole instead of the standard 1/2" and I can not find a spindle for them. It seems SS made one for the 10ER years ago, butI have looked everywhere to no avail, any suggestions? I have the Mark V model 500 made in 1981.
Good eye, Justa! Check out the 2:40 mark on this video: ua-cam.com/video/7i7LdZ3mnOg/v-deo.html I haven’t done a shaper video yet, but if you own a Shopsmith 5/8” molder/dado arbor SOME 5/8” shaper cutters can be driven with it. Just make sure that you always use the tongued washer under the nut. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you sir, it totally makes sense now. I think you are referring to the molder that attaches and is used in the table saw position. I was referring to the shaper that is used in the overhead drill press position unfortunately I can't post a photo here to better explain. Thanks for a prompt reply (yes attention to detail is one of my quirks as I have 30+ years as a law enforcement detective and a private investigator LOL)
@@ronlong5993 no, I wasn’t thinking molders on the tablesaw, but if you don’t know, numbers and I don’t get along due to my dyslexia! To use a cutter that has a hole smaller than the half inch shaft, you have to use a spacer. You are correct, you cannot use a 5/8 in arbor in a 5/16 hole!
Hi Scott, How much wheel wobble is acceptable before replacing the bearings. Reason I ask. I pulled my wheel off, the shaft itself shows no sighs of wear, and the bearings look good on the inside. However when I grab the wheel at top and bottom and wobble back & forth, Im getting @ 3/16th inch of play. But everything spins true and nothing seems worn at all. So is this amount of play normal? Thanks, Steve
Will the INA SCE88 Needle Roller Bearings fit a 1978 Shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel? I removed my old bearing and my dial caliper measures them at 0.685". The newer INA SCE88 bearings are 0.6875".
I'm struggling with tuning up my bandsaw on my 510. Hoping you have some suggestions. The problem I'm having is that I can get the 1/2" SS blade to stay on the dang thing. the story: I got the SS 510 in August, and everything was working fine until about the middle of November when a blade popped off and bent during a cut. Replacement blade from SS, replacement blade guard (mine had the old tinfoil one which died under the assault). I'm having a dickens of a time getting it to stay firmly against the auto tracking and lower blade guide bearings, and the new 1/2" blade keeps popping off the front of the wheels when under power (but not necessarily when spun by hand). I've tried adjusting the tilt of the upper wheel like you showed in some previous videos. I've tried other adjustments from the alignment procedures in the manual, but the blades just don't want to stay on. The two things I'm noticing that might help are (1) the upper wheel bearing makes a tiny bit of noise, and has about 1/32" of play front to back on the shaft (but nothing noticeable left to right); (2) the lower blade backup bearing is a bit noisy. Which is how I ended up watching your videos and going through the lubrication procedures you indicated. But problem remains. So before I spend $130 on replacing the upper wheel (feels wasteful when I'm not 100% sure what the problem is), is there anything else I should be looking at? Any chance you'll be making a video showing how to replace the bearings in that upper wheel? Thanks!
OK... I think I may have figured out part of the problem... and I'm a moron. Nothing like posting something publicly to get you to rethink something. When adjusting the tilt of the upper wheel, I didn't do it under tension with the 1/2" blade on it. I redid it under tension, and the behavior seems better (planning on testing with some cuts later today). I'm still curious about the bearings question though, especially since it appears there IS a tiny bit of left to right play in the needle bearings left to right after all.
Ha! I've done that myself, so I know how you feel. I'm sure there are already videos on this topic and I don't think I have a saw that needs the bearings replaced. Scott
The lower wheel is running on a sealed for life water pump bearing assembly, so as long as it is running smoothly and quietly, you are good to go. Scott
Not as a lubricant. It’s primarily used as an anti-seize. I used to sell it to the Ohio Department of Transportation (ODOT) and they used it on tail light sockets on their salt trucks.
OK. I pulled my upper wheel off. Watching you it seems to smoothly slide off the shaft. Mine has to be forcibly removed from the shaft. Same going on It feels like the end of the shaft has been swaged, but it has not. Once it’s on it feels fine. Oh yeah, it is retained by stupid spring you have to peel off. Any thoughts?
I suspect there's a burr that could be removed from the shaft with a fine file. You can replace the retainer spring with a snap ring if you so choose. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings. It’s great to know someone that knows about SS. Most of the time about all you ever get is “I just sold mine!” Uhhh- you wouldn’t happen to know the specs on that snap ring, would you? 🙂
@@thomasslate5341 Not really, but I think the best approach would be to purchase one of the inexpensive assortments of them from Harbor Freight. They sell snap rings and e clips, either of which would do the trick. The advantage of an e clip is that you wouldn’t need to have snap ring pliers. It’s a 1/2” shaft, but the slot is narrower, so perhaps 7/16” would be correct. That’s another reason why an assortment would be handy. Scott
Scott, Enjoy watching and learning more about my Mark V and Power Pro. I would however like to know if you have or know where I can find the miniature wood Shopsmith plans that I saw on various videos?
Hey Johnny. Yes, the plan for the “Mark .5” can be downloaded from a link in a video description on Jim Sevilla’s channel. Here’s the video that contains the link: ua-cam.com/video/6KD3ibWc3sE/v-deo.html . Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, between my wife and myself we have 6 computers in my home. She has 4 as she works from home. None of these will let me download the plan. Each computer says I need permission from the Google Drive's owner. I have been trying in vain to get these plans with no luck. Since the plans can be freely downloaded and i can't, I would like to ask the favor of downloading them for me and emailing them to me? I know this somewhat of an imposition so I would be willing to pay you to do this. I am just exhausted from trying to get these plans. Oh and by the way, my bandsaw works great but makes some type of what sounds like a metal rubbing/grinding noise when coming to a stop. Any ides on this? Thanks again. Johnny Maniscalco
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, I did that and Jim told it was available for download even after I told him that none of my computers will allow it to be downloaded. I am not in any rush so if you can get it downloaded to your computer, I would appreciate it immensely. There is no rush but do want to get this if you can help. I know from the videos that you have moved and I know what a hassle that can be. Thanks again and hoping for the best. Johnny Maniscalco
I picked up a 14” with the brand Yung Li Hsing ($100) I tried looking it up but couldn’t find it anywhere on internet- Amazon kept referring me to the harbor freight 14” that looks similar but that’s all I could find- are u familiar w this brand?
No, not on the Shopsmith bandsaw. The wheels are conical shaped, beige slightly larger in diameter at the back. It’s an unusual design, but it makes blade tracking automatic. Scott
No, that light connects with the back side of the steel post that the upper wheel arm is extended from. Those are for the Harbor Freight LED light that I added in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7i7LdZ3mnOg/v-deo.html
Hey Mike, I just added them to the list on the video description, which you can view by clicking the “more” link or the little drop down arrow below the title. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the quick response! Amazon did not have them in stock, but they directed me to another source. I ordered a quantity of them and I will check Amazon occasionally to see when they get them back. Thanks again! Mike
@@mikecraw9633 Good deal. They have really struggled to keep cleaning products on their shelves and I believe we wound up getting those towels by accident when they didn't have the ones we normally ordered on hand. Those are now our new go-to. Hope you like them. Scott
Looks like Harbor Freight carries a small 3oz tube of the same grease. Here's a link. www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html A bit more expensive per ounce but we are all about smaller workshops. Unless you really need that much grease.
Great point, Bob, and that same tube is available from Amazon as well as an even smaller tube. I've linked to them in the video description but if Harbor Freight is on the to-do list (and when isn't it) it's good to know they have it. One important thing to double-check is that Super Lube comes in several formulas, so look for PTFE on the front and avoid the one that says "silicone". Scott
As a Millwright, I did not expect to gain much from viewing this.
Surprise!
I never packed a needle roller like that, and I love the technique.
Hydraulic displacement.
And I enjoyed the common sense foray into the greases.
Very well presented.
Thanks!
Mark
Thanks, Mark. I appreciate that. I also worked in millwork and am active with AWI national. You? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings It has been a long and winding road.
We'd have to invest in several cases of beer, and many days to groove on it.
I just did an upper wheel maintenance on my new to me 1956 Magna bandsaw. Your tips were right on but I found a third retainer that I don’t think you mentioned. My upper wheel is retained by one of those thin spiral springs like the one in the headstock (belt tensioner as I remember). Great videos, all of them. 👍👍
Ok...I’m all set. In the last few days since I first watched this video:
✅ WD-40 degreaser
✅ Small tube of grease
✅ BS cover off, blade off, clip off, wheel cleaned of years of dust, degreaser sprayed on the bearing
Today, greasing and refitting the wheel & putting on a BRAND NEW blade!
Wow, wow, wow. Degreased & fully filled the upper bearing & thoroughly cleaned everything up. Installed a brand new Wen 1/2 blade & wow. Cut beautiful perfectly straight lines on a standard 1 inch PT deck board. Adjusted all the guide/cooling blocks. Thanks for all the tips. Next purchase a 3 pack (1/4, 3/8, 1/2 inch) of TimberWolf 72 inch blades .
Fantastic! Sounds like you are well on your way. Have fun! Scott
Thats funny. I have always described the shopsmith as the kitchenaid for your garage.
I purchased my Shopsmith in 1977 and proceeded to drag it across the country and to Hawaii twice in the Navy. I have always been frustrated by Shopsmith's closed mouth technical help. Always willing to sell you parts but not so much on assistance. After watching your videos on the bandsaw I stripped the saw down, lubricated as your advised and checked all the alignments you demonstrated. The Bandsaw has never worked this good. Outstanding help. Thank you sincerely. I just hope you can work the same magic on the belt sander!
Glad to hear you finally found success. Oh yes, the belt sander is another awesome tool that might need some TLC. We'll get there. Thanks for watching, Scott
I changed the needle bearings about 4-5 years ago. There was a bearing outfit in Denver. Ordered - A few days later I had new bearings.
Well done video. I really enjoy the historical tidbits.
I think that outta be part of your videos. Not always stated but sometimes as an aside as the Shopsmith comments were.
Thanks John. I wish I planed these out better because even I don't know what I'm going to hear myself talk about! Scott
Thanks for this info. Ready to lube upper wheel on my shop smith band saw.
You will be surprised how easy it is.
Just lost an eBay auction on upper and lower wheel assembly for about a quarter of the price shopsmith wanted. Last last 10 seconds always gets me!
Ya gotta enter you highest bid and live with the consequences. I won an auction just the other day and was happy that it didn't exceed my max, but I was prepared to let it go if it did. Always remember, never fall in love with something that can't love you back. Scott
I wish I had a garage! I have my Shopsmith in a room in my basement! And a basement with wide gaps in the concrete, so moving is difficult. I commented on Scott's video response to John malecki (misspelled, maybe) but I wish I could convey my appreciation to everyone who is trying to educate us Shopsmith owners. Scott is a wonderful teacher, he's probably forgotten more about Shopsmith than I ever know.
Don’t sell yourself short. We are all learning and hopefully ll passing on what we’ve learned. I have a buddy whose Shopsmith is in a stone walled basement (more like a crawl space) with a dirt floor, so I get what you are saying. It can be done, though. Scott
Excellent video and great information. I enjoy the history. I’ve never greased my BA upper bearings. It squeals, and now realize why. Thank you.
Happy to help. Thankfully it's an easy fix. Scott
Well it looks like I have a new job to do. Never greased my band saw bearings. Thanks for the instructions.
Thankfully this is an easy task. Scott
Dave, good to see you here . Good to see a neighborhood shopsmith fan here also!
@@zerimaryar You guys are neighbors?
Great video! I bought a used Power Station with a bandsaw. That bandsaw is probably in great need of changing the grease in the bearings. Two questions: 1) Lower wheel procedure? 2) Lubrication tips for the Power Station. Enjoying your videos quite a bit! Thank you!
Hey Fred. Love your work. The lower bearing is sealed for life, so as long as it is running smoothly and quietly you should be fine. Oh, the Power Station... ! More to come. Scott
You posted your videos just in time, I just bought a 1950s greenie. All of the components and parts needed a good PM. Using your videos I was able to do about 90% of my maintenance on it and get it in good shape. I'm unfortunately waiting for a new belt so I can't use it right now, but the excitement is building.
Glad I could help
Checked mine after watching they needed greased. Thanks Scott for making and posting videos for us newbe SS owners.
Happy to help. Scott
Just helping with the youtube algorithm.
You have very useful information, quite often not just pertaining to ShopSmith, but useful in other situations.
Completely unrelated, but I don't know if this is just coincidence or what, but literally within 3 weeks of me buying a ShopSmith, three separate times, from 2 random people and 1 person I know, I was asked if I heard of ShopSmith and how useful they are. I just thought it was funny. I had never heard of them 3-5 weeks prior to buying one (this was a few months ago).
Anyway, thanks as always. I'm excited for future videos. Keep em' comin!
Isn't that funny? I was looking into the possibility of buying a Jeep and as soon as I settled on a model I started noticing them everywhere! I wonder if you just have a Shopsmith look about you? Thanks for the algorithm help! Scott
Just found your channel and now enjoying binge watching some of your tutorials. I just wanted to share a sure-fire way to get those C-Clips off without sending them flying. While keeping my thumb on the back of the clip, I put the full bit of the screwdriver into one of the slots of the clip and rotate the bit so that it is prying on the central portion of the clip. I find that I have a whole lot more control over it, from the pencil-eraser size c-clips to the big daddys! The bigger the c-clip is, the bigger the screwdriver needs to be. I hope this helps somebody!
Great tip! Thanks for sharing. Scott
Oh, and welcome!
Curt, that's exactly what I was going to post, but you beat me to it by a year...mainly because I just today found this channel! :)
Thank you, thank you. I put new grease in the upper wheel today and it is quiet like the day I got my bandsaw. I got the same grease that you suggested but I got the small tube. You don't need to put the grease on your finger. The tube spout fits in the bearing hole. Keep up the great help!
That's great to hear! Now, go wear it out! Scott
You could try cutting a scotch brite pad into strips and run the strip inside with cleaner on it.
Something I learned quite by accident while rebuilding Kirby vacuums is that modern magnetic parts dishes have strong enough magnets that they will grab a flying spring right out of the air. I had a height adjustment spring go flying toward another room one day. I saw it go. I thought it ended up in the bathroom, and I spent an hour looking for it. Kirby height adjustment springs are substantial, and if they fly, they tend to fly a long way. Later, I turned my parts dish over, and that spring was stuck to the magnet on the underside. The magnet had grabbed it out of the air as it flew. I pretty much keep one of those dishes close by when I'm pulling something that has a spring in it, as an extra line of defense against losing that spring.
My grandfather had a Hertz franchise and a Hertz truck leasing franchise. He swore by white lithium grease and wouldn't use anything else in his vehicles. He taught me to use it, but never really explained why. That was good information.
Very good information Scott. Thanks for your time to share your knowledge with us.
My pleasure, Ellis. Scott
Scott injoy you're video on wheel bearing replacement. But mine still makes noise maybe I used the wrong grease. Will try the grease you said to use
Great content, and a very good presentation. Keep them coming. Can you test for run out .or any other specs to measure. Thanks for all your work and time to produce great content.
I totally agree
Super video - bought grease & WD40 - found that multiple ‘thumb’ to shaft & wheel installs resulted in clean grease residue eventually - eliminates contamination concerns.
Perfect.
Great video once again, Scott!
Thanks Michael!
Scott, we have needed this channel for a long time. Thank you so much!
I appreciate that, Larry. Scott
I just picked up a 14” band saw that needed a little TLC. I stripped it down and made the necessary adjustments and repairs but my wheels are attached with what looks to be basic nut and bolt
Yes, sometimes that's what they do on 14" saws.
Great Video, thank you for the information, well presented in a very porfessional manner.
You are welcome and I appreciate the encouragement. Scott
I have a Shopsmith bandsaw (along with the mark V and the jointer) that sat unused in my basement from around 1994 to 2021. I was concerned about returning it to use. Your bandsaw videos have been a great guide.
Do you have similar videos or information about returning my old shopsmith jointer into operation? When I returned it to my workshop I ran it very briefly to joint one side of a small board and it got unusually warm. There is probably some serious overdue maintenance. If you have you tubes or other info about returning the jointer into operation that would be very useful.
Hey Robert, that's awesome! I have done a couple jointer videos, but I'm not sure that I have a single video to point you to, so here's a playlist of my jointer vids: ua-cam.com/video/OvfKgNtxsR4/v-deo.html
Great info Scott. I've had my bandsaw for about 24 years and I have never greased the upper wheel. No wonder It screams. I have taken the wheel off, cleaned everything and it is ready for grease. Just waiting for it to get here. In a previous episode, I noticed that your headstock slides easier than mine does. Since I was in the cleaning stage, I took off my headstock, and cleaned and waxed all the tubes. I didn't find any wax build up in the headstock holes so I'm wondering why yours slides easier than mine. Yes, I waited an hour before I buffed the tubes and put it back together.
One thing that I always check is if the tubes are slightly bowed (most are) and if so, are they bow-side up? That and regular allocations of wax can help a lot.
Great video. Simple with good info. Glad to know about white lithium and why not to use it.
Glad it was helpful!
I use a synthetic high-temperature wheel bearing grease. It's the same grease I use for my truck's wheel bearings which are roller bearings. A wash-bottle filled with mineral spirits works well for washing out the old grease.
Great tips! Thanks Robert. Scott
I hadn’t seen (maybe yes, maybe no?) this video until now. Dang it - well done !!
Thanks, John.
Enjoy your videos just recently got a 510. Have wanted one for over 50 years. Have built your rip fence extension and added hf light to bandsaw. What material thicknes to make a zero clearance saw insert. Thank you
I make them with 1/4" tempered hardboard (Masonite). It makes them ever-so-slightly under sized, so I shim them with masking tape around the bottom edge. Works like a charm. I am intrigued with the zero clearance insert made by Jim Sevilla on his channel. It's worth a look. Scott
Great video! Yes we still watch these Scott😂
I'm back at it again and this video has led me to most all your other bandsaw tips, tricks and other things videos except for the new tires one. A blade break today brings me back to this vid. My top wheel has a slight wobble (wiggle if you prefer) to it leading me to think I might need new bearings. After removing the wheel, I "nail-checked" the spindle shaft and besides the neglected dirt buildup ring on it, I felt no wear ridges. Since the bearings were dry (long time neglect dry, very dry, bad Shopsmith owner dry) but otherwise looked good, is that little looseness a concern since, as you said in this or one of your videos, that it is designed for downward force? I had a hard time pulling the wheel off of the shaft, but hindsight now points to the debris buildup on the shaft end. I know it's a tolerance judgement, but how much wiggle (or wobble) is too much?
Love the videos! I've found another Mark V I'm rejuvenating referencing your maintenance videos! Thanks again!
Hey Curt. Yeah, that’s a tough one to explore in a post comment! My advise is to pack it with grease and give it the ol’ proof is in the pudding’ test. As long as it runs “quietly” (again, that’s subjective) and smoothly (again) you should be good to go. You’ll know when it is time to change the bearings. Scott
Thanks! Guess what I'll do tomorrow since I've never... BTW how to lubricate BS guides, I tried spray aerosol graphite, not much luck, just used oil and I can now adjust them
I use wax or the Super Lube dry spray. After coating I wipe them dry and they work very well. Scott
Another great maintenance video Scott! Thanks a bunch.
Thanks William. Scott
Awe man... now I have to add to my yearly maintenance list... Grease the bandsaw wheel!
Thanks Scott, I needed one more thing to piddle with!!!
Actually, I thought it was a sealed bearing. I’ve never paid any attention to it.
How about the lower wheel? Being a drive wheel, does it have a different type of bearing in the hub?
Nice illustration of an important and overlooked task.
I did a video that covered the lower wheel but to cut to the chase, it is a shield for life water pump bearing assembly. Scott
Man thanks Did this right after watching this vid easy stuff!! You have a link to where I can get new bearings?
Yes, you can get them via Amazon and from all the regular places like MSCDirects and Motion Industries. Here's an Amazon link: amzn.to/33y6IoG
Thanks for excellent video Scott. I need to replace the tires on my bandsaw. Any recommendations? I am thinking of going with neoprene.
I hope you mean polyurethane. I have two sets that I plan on installing and comparing, so I'm reluctant to make a suggestion just yet. I purchased the orange tires from Shopsmith and the "Blue Max" tires from Amazon: amzn.to/3o2LPcM
As new to the shopsmith and new to woodworking in general, what TPI blades do you keep on hand or use regularly and where do you source your blades
Here's my go-to 1/4" Timber Wolf bandsaw blade: amzn.to/3lcuf4L
This is the blade I use for resawing, the Timber Wolf 1/2" x 72" 4 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/34ShtU5 Hopefully that's enough to get you started. Scott
Excellent, I learned a ton. Thank you very much.
Glad to hear it and you are welcome.
Hi, Another great video. Does renewing the grease eliminate the screaming that the BS makes? I noticed your SS makes the same screech as mine (Vid on 5th Oct 2020 ~ how to measure for length of bb blade). I use the bandsaw separately on the power station, but I had the same racket coming from the bs on the main SS unit (I think I have SSmk5, quite an early one) I have just fitted to the power pro upgrade!! Ps. I am in UK
It might, but then again it might not. It all depends upon where the screech is coming from. For sure it won’t hurt if it needs some grease. One of the unique features of the Shopsmith bandsaw is the auto track bearing assembly on the left-hand side of the machine. That adds two ball bearings more than your typical bandsaw, therefore you get a bit more noise. Those bearings are not expensive and can be easily replaced if the noise continues after applying grease to the upper wheel. Scott
I'm sure that my bandsaw hasn't had anything greased on it since the 60s. Time to take it apart! is there any other periodic maintenance on the bandsaw?
Yes, I would say that it'll need it. If it has the original bronze bushings in the auto-track wheels they will need either oil or graphite and may need to be cleaned. Scott
Great video and good information! I need to do this on my bandsaw. I think I saw below but what about the lower wheel?
Thanks Bill. That seems to be the question of the week. It's sealed for life, which doesn't mean we never have to mess with it. I'll address this in the mid-week follow-up. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I saw your response to Kay Nielson below. sorry for the duplication, Still great content on the Shopsmith!
Thanks Scott for the videos! You are a life saver among SS owners. I performed this procedure, and had the same issue wherein my bearings fell out. I will order new needle bearings based on the link you have provided, but just need to double check: My bandsaw is Yuba, not Shopsmith. The Yuba seems identical to SS in every other way, so I would assume the needle bearings would be the same as well. Do you happen to know for sure?
Yes, Yuba owned the Shopsmith brand for several years, so Yuba is Shopsmith and everything is interchangeable. Scott
Hi Scott, how do you go about changing the tire?
I need to replace a couple of them and even have two different sets to install, but just haven't found the time. It's no different than on other bandsaws so for now I would suggest looking around UA-cam until you find a method that makes sense. If you choose to heat them in water just make sure not to exceed 120 deg fahrenheit of they may deform. Scott
Robert Shaw, I purchased my Shopsmith in 78, a 520. I have recently ben breaking blades. What are the most comment causes? Thank you
Could be a couple things. Are these new blades? What brand of blade are you using? Heat and metal fatigue are the normal cause of blade breakage. This can be caused by long-time usage, but if the blades are new it can happen from running at too high speed or back friction from too tight guide blocks. Also, if the guide blocks aren't properly positioned they can impact the set of the teeth, which can cause damage. Those are my best bets. If you haven't tied Timber Wolf blade I highly recommend them. There's a link in the video description. Scott
my bandsaw has the old spring clip, which I would like to replace with either a c-clip or e-clip; I looked through the comments, but don't see any mention of size.
They’ve used a couple over the years, so my advice would be to pick up an inexpensive assortment. You can find them at Harbor Freight and on Amazon. Either option will cost you less than purchasing a single clip from Shopsmith.
But, what will I do with the other 299 clips? LOL@@MyGrowthRings
@@christopherbendel For the difference in price your could throw them away or give them away on one of the forums.
Well, I took your advice. My band saw is only 50+ years old and never been maintained. To be fair, it wasn’t used the first 30 years. In any event, I took off the wheel and used a rag to clean the bearings. The bearings fell out! Can you send me a note on how to get a new bearing and how to replace? Thank you, my band saw will likely work better if I can fix it.
There’s a link in the video description to the bearing and if it fell out the new one should press right in with a light tap with a mallet.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you, I found the bearings, but I can’t get the original bearings out. Any suggestions?
I got one bearing to move in some, but the other bearing won’t move. I’m trying some penetrating oil but no luck yet
@@barneyheller Use a nail or flat head nail as a punch and place the screw through the hole and use it to tap the bearing out. Tap gently and slowly while moving to a new spot for every blow. If you tap in one spot too much the bearing will get crooked and could damage the wheel.
@@MyGrowthRings thank you for your help. I ended up using a torch and a wooden dowel ( not at the same time) to get the bearing out. It was really stuck. Now I’m waiting for the bearings so then I can watch all your videos. They are excellent!
Great video- I know it was posted some time ago but how much wobble should there be with the wheel on the shaft when not under tension of the blade? Is it naturally a little loose on that shaft or is that a sign of wear? I’ve had a couple used bandsaws and they both have what seems like some play on that shaft (ability to tip on that shaft, but no lateral thrust)
That’s a great question. I’m not comfortable with much play, so if the grease and the tension don’t remove the play, I’m going to replace the bearings or the entire wheel, if that’s more convenient. Scott
My bandsaw was made around 1985 and has that spiral retainer. Can it be replaced with a c-clip or snap ring?
I’ve never tried it but I believe it can be.
Thank you for the video. I just purchased my first Shopsmith from an estate sale. It came with about every attachment I can think of. Before I use it I want to do all the maintenance to it. Can the tire be replaced on the wheel?
Welcome to the SHopsmith family! Yes, you can absolutely replace the tires. Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/MIcnerDwTcg/v-deo.html
There is a danger using degreaser to clean the bearing. The solvents may affect the new grease. An alternate method is to push out the old grease with new grease. This avoids the danger of compromising the qualities of your new grease.
Great tip. I wailed to mention that I usually rinse the bearing with a solvent and blow it out with compressed air, but even that can introduce water and contaminates. Scott
My all original 1981 SS bandsaw (cast iron table) doesn't have the eccentric tubes, just stop collars, unlike the jointer, belt sander, jig saw that do. The drive shaft on the bandsaw is horizontally misaligned with the upper shaft on the headstock by about 1/2". Everything else is in proper alignment except the bandsaw drive shaft. The drive coupler (original 1980) engages with the upper shaft on the headstock about half. Been using it that way for decades. It's odd that Shopsmith shipped it with the straight tubes back then.
Also, part of the web on one of the sections of the upper wheel on mine was milled away for balancing back then (1981), not drilled like yours was.
Yeah, the eccentric tubes were a common sense solution that took a surprisingly long time to be introduced. If it's that far off I'd suggest getting a set, but even then you arn't going to correct 1/2" of misalignment. Scott
I remember seeing that on bandsaws that were coming in for service when I started there in '87. I seem to remember some that were balanced with Tinnerman clips added, but that may have been a user fix. Scott
Wondering why you can't spray carbureator cleaner in the bearings to clean out the old grease?
I’m sure that would work too.
Saw this video, really like your detailed advice. My shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel has a spiral ring. Took it off and need to replace it with either a snap ring or e clip since not able to find a spiral ring replacement part. Can you recommend what is the proper size of the e clip or snap ring to replace the spiral ring?
Thanks Chris. I believe that the groove is 1/2" and you can replace the spiral ring with a standard "e-clip". if you don't have one already, a set is a handy and inexpensive thing to have on hand: amzn.to/3AHm08D
My weekend project. My SSBS is "screaming" like crazy .. I hope this makes it more quiet .. the neighborhood dogs are complaining ..
Ha! Good luck with it. Scott
Thanks
Welcome
Material and thickness thanks
In case you missed it, I typed that info into my last comment. Scott
great info as always. I forget - have you done a video about the tires? I've had to replace mine several times now, from original rubber that began to slip, to urethane "upgrades" from SS, to another mfg'ers. What're your recommendation and issues to be aware of?
Hey Hal. I have two sets of replacement tires but haven’t had the time to replace them. The reason I bought two different sets of the urethane tires is because I really don’t have a strong feeling about them. Glued, rubber tires are tried and true, but they won’t last forever, that’s for sure. What are your thoughts? Scott
Would like to clean and lube my 1980's Shopsmith Bandsaw having seen your video.
Is the lower wheel removed, cleaned and greased in the same way?
No, the lower wheel is pressed onto an automotive water bump bearing assembly. That bearing is sealed. There are a few people who argue that it is possible to add grease to this type of bearing using pressure, but usually by the time that we see the issue, the bearing is too far gone. Shopsmith only sells this as an assembly, including a new wheel, tire, bearing and shaft. Some folks have had success with used parts sold on eBay, but I would start by checking to see what the new assembly costs from Shopsmith. Good luck, Mike! Scott
Hi Scott, while you are talking band saws, could you toss a straight edge across your aluminum table?
Mine is low (maybe 1/16") on the side left of the bolt that fills the blade access channel.
I'm looking at adding a brace along the bottom to push it up a bit.
Have you seen warp issues on the aluminum BS tables?
Thanks,
Bob
They all have a little misalignment, which is why they added the bolt, but are you saying it’s off even after the bolt is installed? Perhaps you can add a fender washer under the table between the table and the knob?
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, even with the bolt in place. This link shows a similar situation. I've tried to reach Dusty but no response to see how the story ended.
forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=19860&start=10
This bandsaw was in storage for a while and may not have been handled kindly. Can I just try to bend it back?
Thanks,
Bob
Hi Scott. I added the fender washer and indeed it does help. I'll need a larger one or a short metal strip.
I also pulled the table completely off and checked out the back side for issues. Was surprised to find a small crack across the bottom which lines up with the warpage. It's interesting because the top finished side does not show the crack at all. The edge of the table does show the crack and what appears to be filler. From the paint over the filler this seems to be a factory "feature". I checked on E-Bay for a table replacement and the back side photo shows a ridge/crack in the same place. I won't be buying that one.
I looked at the trunnions and they are not bent to exactly 90 degrees. Seem to be bent down more. I'm wondering if this is normal or if bending them to exactly 90 degrees and confirming the top of the trunnions are all flat would solve the issue.
Or just add another washer under the low corner and call it good enough.
Thanks again.
Thanks Scott, nicely done, as usual. Question:: I have not greased my upper wheel (but will be immediately). I notice a 'squeaking' sound when I run the bandsaw. Could this be the cause or is there another culprit?
There are several bearings and any one or combination of them could be the culprits. Greasing will help, though.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks. I watched every video you have on the bandsaw last night, some for the second time, and I'm going to break it down today and get everything checked over, grease when I can and see how it does after that. Thanks for your prompt and helpful response.
The Viva Signature Cloth Paper Towels are disappearing from the face of the earth! I have purchased some off eBay at a shameful price. Should be in by end of this week. However while in Lowes today picking up their last can of Johnson Paste Wax, I spotted a box of intex Cloth-Like RAGS, Heavy Duty - Lint Free for $12.50. 300 Count. They are stretchy and clothe like. I believe this is the same as the Viva! Also, Min Wax Paste wax does not have naphtha to dissolve the old wax like Johnson's!
Man, that's crazy! The word must be out. Thanks for sharing that tip. Scott
Scott, Hello. I'm relatively new to My Growth Rings but not to Shopsmith. I bought mine (Mark V and Bandsaw) in March of 1981. A bandsaw question for you. Is it easy enough (and can you show how) to replace the tensioning screw? The end of mine has worn to the point that the Shopsmith "tool kit" (5/32 Allen wrench) no longer has any grip to turn the tensioning screw so I have to use vice grips to now loosen and tighten the nut if I want to change blades. Also interested in your advise on upgrading to Carter guides vs the original upper and lower blocks.
Love your videos. Thanks
Tom L
Hey Tom. Before you go to the trouble of replacing it make sure that it isn't filled with compacted sawdust. I've seen that happen a time or two. As for replacing it, it's really simple. Just remove the the E-clip from the left side and screw the bolt forward. Scott
Hey Scott, I saw what look like small magnets behind your upper wheel. Are they magnets, if so what is the purpose? Just curious. Thanks great videos by the way, I found your videos while searching for videos on the shaper function. I have a need finally to use the shaper BUT some of the cutters have a 5/16" hole instead of the standard 1/2" and I can not find a spindle for them. It seems SS made one for the 10ER years ago, butI have looked everywhere to no avail, any suggestions? I have the Mark V model 500 made in 1981.
Good eye, Justa! Check out the 2:40 mark on this video: ua-cam.com/video/7i7LdZ3mnOg/v-deo.html I haven’t done a shaper video yet, but if you own a Shopsmith 5/8” molder/dado arbor SOME 5/8” shaper cutters can be driven with it. Just make sure that you always use the tongued washer under the nut. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you sir, it totally makes sense now. I think you are referring to the molder that attaches and is used in the table saw position. I was referring to the shaper that is used in the overhead drill press position unfortunately I can't post a photo here to better explain. Thanks for a prompt reply (yes attention to detail is one of my quirks as I have 30+ years as a law enforcement detective and a private investigator LOL)
@@ronlong5993 no, I wasn’t thinking molders on the tablesaw, but if you don’t know, numbers and I don’t get along due to my dyslexia! To use a cutter that has a hole smaller than the half inch shaft, you have to use a spacer. You are correct, you cannot use a 5/8 in arbor in a 5/16 hole!
Hi Scott,
How much wheel wobble is acceptable before replacing the bearings. Reason I ask. I pulled my wheel off, the shaft itself shows no sighs of wear, and the bearings look good on the inside. However when I grab the wheel at top and bottom and wobble back & forth, Im getting @ 3/16th inch of play.
But everything spins true and nothing seems worn at all. So is this amount of play normal?
Thanks,
Steve
Steve, that does sound like a lot of play. I think it's worth considering replacement bearings. Scott
Will the INA SCE88 Needle Roller Bearings fit a 1978 Shopsmith bandsaw upper wheel? I removed my old bearing and my dial caliper measures them at 0.685". The newer INA SCE88 bearings are 0.6875".
Do you see any identifying marks on the old bearings? Do a Google search of them and you should confirm the correct number.
I'm struggling with tuning up my bandsaw on my 510. Hoping you have some suggestions. The problem I'm having is that I can get the 1/2" SS blade to stay on the dang thing.
the story:
I got the SS 510 in August, and everything was working fine until about the middle of November when a blade popped off and bent during a cut. Replacement blade from SS, replacement blade guard (mine had the old tinfoil one which died under the assault). I'm having a dickens of a time getting it to stay firmly against the auto tracking and lower blade guide bearings, and the new 1/2" blade keeps popping off the front of the wheels when under power (but not necessarily when spun by hand). I've tried adjusting the tilt of the upper wheel like you showed in some previous videos. I've tried other adjustments from the alignment procedures in the manual, but the blades just don't want to stay on. The two things I'm noticing that might help are (1) the upper wheel bearing makes a tiny bit of noise, and has about 1/32" of play front to back on the shaft (but nothing noticeable left to right); (2) the lower blade backup bearing is a bit noisy. Which is how I ended up watching your videos and going through the lubrication procedures you indicated. But problem remains.
So before I spend $130 on replacing the upper wheel (feels wasteful when I'm not 100% sure what the problem is), is there anything else I should be looking at?
Any chance you'll be making a video showing how to replace the bearings in that upper wheel?
Thanks!
OK... I think I may have figured out part of the problem... and I'm a moron. Nothing like posting something publicly to get you to rethink something. When adjusting the tilt of the upper wheel, I didn't do it under tension with the 1/2" blade on it. I redid it under tension, and the behavior seems better (planning on testing with some cuts later today).
I'm still curious about the bearings question though, especially since it appears there IS a tiny bit of left to right play in the needle bearings left to right after all.
Ha! I've done that myself, so I know how you feel. I'm sure there are already videos on this topic and I don't think I have a saw that needs the bearings replaced. Scott
What about the lower wheel?
The lower wheel is running on a sealed for life water pump bearing assembly, so as long as it is running smoothly and quietly, you are good to go. Scott
Is copper grease any good
Not as a lubricant. It’s primarily used as an anti-seize. I used to sell it to the Ohio Department of Transportation (ODOT) and they used it on tail light sockets on their salt trucks.
OK. I pulled my upper wheel off. Watching you it seems to smoothly slide off the shaft. Mine has to be forcibly removed from the shaft. Same going on It feels like the end of the shaft has been swaged, but it has not. Once it’s on it feels fine. Oh yeah, it is retained by stupid spring you have to peel off. Any thoughts?
I suspect there's a burr that could be removed from the shaft with a fine file. You can replace the retainer spring with a snap ring if you so choose. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings. It’s great to know someone that knows about SS. Most of the time about all you ever get is “I just sold mine!” Uhhh- you wouldn’t happen to know the specs on that snap ring, would you? 🙂
@@thomasslate5341 Not really, but I think the best approach would be to purchase one of the inexpensive assortments of them from Harbor Freight. They sell snap rings and e clips, either of which would do the trick. The advantage of an e clip is that you wouldn’t need to have snap ring pliers. It’s a 1/2” shaft, but the slot is narrower, so perhaps 7/16” would be correct. That’s another reason why an assortment would be handy. Scott
Scott,
Enjoy watching and learning more about my Mark V and Power Pro. I would however like to know if you have or know where I can find the miniature wood Shopsmith plans that I saw on various videos?
Hey Johnny. Yes, the plan for the “Mark .5” can be downloaded from a link in a video description on Jim Sevilla’s channel. Here’s the video that contains the link: ua-cam.com/video/6KD3ibWc3sE/v-deo.html . Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, between my wife and myself we have 6 computers in my home. She has 4 as she works from home. None of these will let me download the plan. Each computer says I need permission from the Google Drive's owner. I have been trying in vain to get these plans with no luck.
Since the plans can be freely downloaded and i can't, I would like to ask the favor of downloading them for me and emailing them to me? I know this somewhat of an imposition so I would be willing to pay you to do this. I am just exhausted from trying to get these plans.
Oh and by the way, my bandsaw works great but makes some type of what sounds like a metal rubbing/grinding noise when coming to a stop. Any ides on this? Thanks again.
Johnny Maniscalco
I’m not near my computers today but how about posting a comment on Jim‘s video?
@@MyGrowthRings Scott, I did that and Jim told it was available for download even after I told him that none of my computers will allow it to be downloaded.
I am not in any rush so if you can get it downloaded to your computer, I would appreciate it immensely. There is no rush but do want to get this if you can help. I know from the videos that you have moved and I know what a hassle that can be. Thanks again and hoping for the best.
Johnny Maniscalco
@@johnnymaniscalco5228 I have it downloaded but need your email address. Feel free to email me at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
I picked up a 14” with the brand Yung Li Hsing ($100) I tried looking it up but couldn’t find it anywhere on internet- Amazon kept referring me to the harbor freight 14” that looks similar but that’s all I could find- are u familiar w this brand?
Are the wheels perfectly symmetrical? It seems that it would be advantageous to flip it each time to wear the tires evenly.
No, not on the Shopsmith bandsaw. The wheels are conical shaped, beige slightly larger in diameter at the back. It’s an unusual design, but it makes blade tracking automatic. Scott
Would any multi purpose grease work?
Yes, as long as it isn’t white lithium grease.
are the magnets for your sewing machine light?
No, that light connects with the back side of the steel post that the upper wheel arm is extended from. Those are for the Harbor Freight LED light that I added in this video: ua-cam.com/video/7i7LdZ3mnOg/v-deo.html
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you
so they are glued in.
@@artburnett871 No, there’s a set both inside and outside of the saw. At this point I’m sure the double sided tape is doing all the holding.
Push out the old grease with fresh new grease.
As long as you do it before it totally dries out, that works better than nothing at all. Scott
Could you give me (us) the name or product designation of the paper shop towels on Amazon? Thanks! Mike
Hey Mike, I just added them to the list on the video description, which you can view by clicking the “more” link or the little drop down arrow below the title. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the quick response! Amazon did not have them in stock, but they directed me to another source. I ordered a quantity of them and I will check Amazon occasionally to see when they get them back. Thanks again! Mike
@@mikecraw9633 Good deal. They have really struggled to keep cleaning products on their shelves and I believe we wound up getting those towels by accident when they didn't have the ones we normally ordered on hand. Those are now our new go-to. Hope you like them. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Looking forward to giving them a try. Thanks again for the response. Mike
@@mikecraw9633 My pleasure.
Looks like Harbor Freight carries a small 3oz tube of the same grease.
Here's a link.
www.harborfreight.com/85-gram-super-lube-grease-cartridge-93744.html
A bit more expensive per ounce but we are all about smaller workshops.
Unless you really need that much grease.
Great point, Bob, and that same tube is available from Amazon as well as an even smaller tube. I've linked to them in the video description but if Harbor Freight is on the to-do list (and when isn't it) it's good to know they have it. One important thing to double-check is that Super Lube comes in several formulas, so look for PTFE on the front and avoid the one that says "silicone". Scott
Polytetrafĺouroethelyne is commonly known as Teflon
Correct, but only when it is produced by DuPont.
Get an old shopsmith. Learn how to fix it up. Shopsmith is the best artist tool. Tell your wife it's better than a ring
She’ll figure that out herself.
I pronounce P.T.F.E. TEFLON
If it's made by DuPont that would be a correct pronunciation. If not, it's not. Teflon is a registered trademark.
You missed your shaft meme ahh come on lol 5:35 6:39
I noticed while I was editing but realized that I said it too much.
@@MyGrowthRings lol