Your Shopsmith has a Weak Link!!! (And what to do about it)
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- ✅ SHOP NOTES: That's right, your Shopsmith tools have a weak link, and there's something you can do about it. Don't miss the follow-up Q&A video, which is public for one week and then becomes a Channel Member benefit: • Q&A Follow-up to "Your...
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Here are links to a few of the products I used or discussed in this video:
🟢 My favorite 9" long T-handle "Shopsmith Toolbox" 5/32" Hex Wrench: amzn.to/3sm3NcJ
🟢 Shopsmith "Help Kit": www.shopsmith....
🟢 Stainless Steel replacement set screws for your Shopsmith Mark V: amzn.to/3gtafKR NOTE that these SS set screws have CUPPED tips, so they will need to be flattened.
💾 This is the EXCELLENT set screw chart that I suggest you download. Note that this was originally shared on the SS Forums: shopsmith.com/s...
💾 Another great download from the Shopsmith Forum was created by long-time contributor "Dusty" and covers what Shopsmith tools the set screws in the Help Kit don't fit! forum.shopsmit...
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A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. I always recommend shopping around for a better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings! Scott
#Shopsmith #SetScrews #ShospmithSetScrew
Good Old McMaster Carr carries with what they call "Flat Top" set screws in 4 configurations and any number of TPI, thread pitch, & Length. Including choices for the flat top (flat, soft, oval). All at very reasonable prices if you need 25 or 50 of them (except shipping of course).
You are exactly right. I also like Holo-Krome, which is now owned by Fastenal and there's also MSC Direct and Granger. The biggest issue with buying from hardware wholesalers, besides getting an account in some cases, is the quantity they require you to purchase. But in the grans scheme of things, $10 for 50 ain't all bad! Scott
Glad you're making these videos. I got my shopsmith from my step dad along with boxes upon boxes upon boxes of almost every accessory thats offered. Watching your videos and tips has helped tremendously sorting through all of it and understanding how it all should be set up. Thank you, and keep it up!
Hey Stephen. Glad you have found them helpful. Scott
I started watching a few of your videos and quickly realized that I was learning a lot of information. I am a newer subscriber and really appreciate your knowledge and wisdom. I purchased my Mark 5 in 1986, I added the jointer and bandsaw. Then the real world keep me to busy working with overtime for the next 20 plus years. I am just now going through the mark 5 and bandsaw to get everything ready to actually use. Even while I was too busy to actually take on any projects, I did look for and picked up a lot of wood to use in the future. So I am ready to get busy...thanks again for your help and knowledge. I did attend the Shopsmith classes here in the ST. Louis Area at the Bridgeton, Missouri location until I had all metals and patches back then, then too many hours working stopped me.
John, isn't it shocking how quickly time flies? It's a shame that your hobby got derailed, but it'll be waiting for you when you are ready. Good to have you here. Scott
I have had my Shopsmith for over 35 years, updated it a few times to the 520 w/Power Pro. Even built a Mark V 510 and made of video of that process on my You Tube Channel. Yet today I watched your Lathe setup and adjustment and learned several tips and processes I did not know.
I even went to the Shopsmith college and Saw Dust sessions several decades ago, yet still learned more things today.
That is the Shopsmith family thing I appreciate so much.
Thank you for the information.
So glad you picked up something you could use. I love learning new things myself. Scott
As I was watching this video I realized why I couldn't use my upper saw guard, the aluminum collar was on backwards (just got a very used MK V) I turned it around and now I can used the saw guard. Thank you so much for all the info I have got from you about my Shopsmith.
That's awesome, Edward! Glad I could help. Scott
I Had no idea there was a life to these setscrews. I have several items where the screws are loosening and require almost constant retightening. I'm now going to replace those screws. And the info on the flat vs cupped tips is so helpful. As always thank you.
@@ras1500 Love that idea - thanks
Just watched this, very good. Also a set screw with a brass tip and grind the brass short. Keep the set screws in with Vibra-tite a reusable thread locking compound.
8 pages of SS set screws? 😲😲 Golly gee willekers Mr. Wilson! That’s a lot of set screws!!
Thanks for video and information.
Glad your back on SS topics. I missed you. 😉
Thanks Bill. Yes, I missed talking about my Shopsmith too! Scott
Thanks again for another video that helps with the details. So many of your vids help us focus on the little things that we sometimes may take for granted. Set screws may be some of the tiniest parts in the system, but they are certainly some of the most important. A second thank you for the video a while back where you showed how to sharpen the jointer and planer knives. While my wallet may be a bit thinner now that I have the conical disc and the sharpening jig, following your video and using those tools made sharpening the knives a breeze. I also had to replace the cutter bearings ( a whopping cost of $7.20!), which was also pretty easy, especially since my mechanic son had the bearing puller. Now that 38 year old jointer works like a dream, a pleasant one, not a nightmare. Keep 'em coming. I always learn something very valuable. You're the best, Glen
Thanks Glen. That's wonderful that you've breathed new life into an old tool. Keep it up! Scott
A few years ago I had a quill issue with my Mark 7. Shopsmith sent the repair parts along with several .177 cal lead air rifle pellets to fill the holes. Factory fix!!. I have also encountered the 'loose set screw' when using the Nova chuck. Wear and vibration cause them to loosen quickly. I now have many spares.... but the tip on flattening the tip is the best.... Thanks for all of your work
Glad you found it helpful.
Air rifle pellets it's pretty clever actually
shopsmith help kit. that was a new one. checked it out, not sure why they are sending rags and wax though. but. i have ordered set screws from shopsmith and works great.
Scott, you continue to amaze with the details of SS ownership you illuminate. whats the update on the new shop?
Thanks for asking, Richard. It has been sitting static while I was in Texas on business for two weeks and while the electrical inspector dragged his feet! Everything is good now, so we are pushing on. Scott
A little problem I've found with stainless steel bolt hardware is they can tend to gall at a lower torque than regular steel, so keep that in mind and be careful when using them. Probably should put some anti-sieze on them before use to reduce that problem.
Nice as usual. Glad you're back!
Thanks!
I don’t own a Shopsmith (although my dad did), but I really enjoy your channel and the fun rabbit holes you go down with this stuff. Thanks for the great videos!
I appreciate that!
once again you have given me something to think about and check on my shopsmith!! hope all is well with you and yours!!
When I am tightening the set screws on mine, I always rock the "tool kit(s)" (my 10ER uses four different sizes) back and forth. As it approaches tight, the arc of travel gets smaller till it is tight and I am dead on perpendicular to the flat. I haven't had any come loose, and there is always a "snap" as they break loose when removing.
I do the same. Thanks for the reminder. Scott
Thanks for the download reference on Shopsmith set screws! Very informative.jim
Nice tip. I like to have set screws on had just in case I didn’t realize that some are proprietary to ShopSmith. I like that you showed what happens with a loose set screw on the tool attached to the spindle.
Great tip and reminder to check our equipment. I always run the correct tap into the treads when refreshing and painting a SS A simple thread checker will insure correct size. Puddy in quill spacer will keep from turning the wrong set screw . Keep them coming .
The putty suggestion is spot on. Thanks! Scott
For years on my non Shopsmith applications in my metal lathe I turn the end of the set screws totally flat. I would use a 5/16 or 3/8 long for the 1/4 deep application. After turning the set screw will be shorter.
Smart.
The funny thing about watching all of these shopsmith videos is finding out I live within about 20 minutes of most of you. I guess living in Dayton a lot of us drank the shopsmith koolaid right up.
Were do or did you live?
Here's a product available from W.W. Grainger. 5/16 - 18 X 5/16 Half Dog point set screw $22 per 100
Nice info video on the ShopSmith. I almost bought a ShopSmith IV. But thought the 1/2up motor was under powered. But it had all the accessories. Sure liked the Lathe, Drill Press and Horizontal Router feathers. The Planer and Table Saw I thought were unsafe features. Bandsaw was a nice touch.
Richard, I assume that someone behind you must have purchased it. Hopefully they made it work for them. What tools do you have? Scott
I read somewhere, a long time ago, a tip to store extra set screws in the Miter Gauge on top of the nylon guides which screw in from the bottom. It also acts as a lock to keep the guides in place. Apparently, a previous owner of my machine must had read that tip as well because I discovered there were two sets screws already there waiting for me.
I shared that tip in a very old video on the miter gauge, but it’s an old tip left over from the SS Academy days. It’s a wise strategy. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings hey that’s probably were I saw it!
That was good timing! I need some of these for my latest ShopSmith acquisition! 😃
Excellent.
Several years ago a Fastenal salesman told me he could get me set screws for my old 510. I brought him the arbor screw and the small one from the miter slide. He brought me a dozen arbor screws… but couldn’t find any slide screws.
I ended up buying a couple of slide screws from Shopsmith. Good thing I bought an extra because I broke one a couple of months ago. They always seem to bind up when I tighten them. So, I tried waxing it before I put it in… works like a charm now.
Have you noticed that the slide screws bind up? Or, is it just my slide?
Oh yes, they have an aggressive taper in both the bar and the set screw, so I either wax them or make sure to put a strip of paper under the bar before I tighten it. Scott
Been fine tuning everything today, grounded out all my cupped set screws. Thanks, K
Smart move. Takes some effort, but they’ll be right forever after.
Thanks for the screwy video. Yup, I picked up the Help Kit a while ago.
I need to find some red putty to cover the infrequently used set screws. I seemingly accidentally unscrew the collar or god forbid the quill set screws!
The wrench just seems to seek that out out! Filler is a good idea. Scott
Once again. Great info, short & sweet & informative. Thanks for all the tips. I hate the shipping & handling fees for small “weightless” SS items - makes me not want to order OEM stuff from them. S&H should never be more than the item itself.
I sure wish that could be the case. My wife and I have a business where there are times that shipping exceeds the cost of the item being shipped. It’s very frustrating for all of us! Scott
I have been a shopsmith owner for almost 30 years and never realized the difference in the set screws, from retail commercial compared to propirity ones for shopsmith. Fortunately I had a help kit with spares so I replaced any lost ones with one from shopsmith. I started with the 510 model and have since upgraded to the 520 and just recently upgraded the castors which made a huge difference in moving my machine around in my wood floor shop. Would love to get the power pro and I have watched the demos that Doug Reid put on, but just not in my budget yet.
The price of the PowerPro really is a stretch. Scott
Some stainless steel is terrible about galling. If you must use stainless steel set screws, you should apply anti-seize compound and if not available, use a good grease.
Threads can be restored using a Helicoil kit available at many automotive supply stores.
True, but that’s not only more work, but you also have added costs. That would be my approach if I ran out of fresh spots to tap. Good suggestion. Scott
Great Info Scott, I didn't know this about the set screws.
Thanks, Allen. Hey, I have a couple wrenches named that!
Awesome info as usual. I knew this so several years ago I bought the kit! Thanks Scott!
You are a wise man, Bob. Scott
Never thought of drilling and tapping new hole. Good idea. I need to do that on one piece I have.
I learned at I didn’t know. I’ve had a SS since the early 70’s the only issue I’ve had is my chuck . It’s been a problem for years. I need to just order a new one .
Hey Jimmy. That will surly fix the issue. Scott
The set screw on my aluminum collar is filled with silicone. I figured it was done on purpose, I've never had a need to remove it. Was that factory?
It’s a putty and yes, SS added it on purpose to make it less likely that you’d mess with it. If you need to access it you can easily pick it out with a awe or a nail. Scott
Nick Engler in his old Shopsmith videos called it something, not schmoo, but something similar. probably a dab of plumber's putty. I hear you should keep silicon anything away from your workshop. messes up finishes and waxes and gets on everything,
Well now I am going to have to look over all of my set screws and see if any of them are correct! lol
Ha!
Nice info video. I almost bought. Used ER-IV. Had most of the accessories with it. But decided the 1/2up motor was under powered. But sure liked versatility of the multi-use. The bonus I felt was Lathe, Drill Press and Horizontal Router options. Planer and Table Saw options I felt were dangerous. But already had those two pieces of equipment. Wouldn't mind having a ShopSmith V.
I’m slightly confused by the reference to a “ER-IV”. Was in a 1940’s era 10ER? There was never an “IV” until Shopsmith introduced a Mark 4 last year. Scott
Love this tip, but now I need to go check all my set screws. Got my afternoon planned now. Thanks for all the great videos has made learning and using my shopsmith a highlight of my free time.
Happy to fill your free time! Scott
Yeah same here, mine is an old Model 500 and I replaced a few screws and before I saw this I probably used cup point setscrews thinking they would be better.
Good information, Scott. Thanks
Very informative.
Glad you think so!
From Dennis in London Ontario. Hey Scott, not about set screws but about maintenance. Johnson paste wax just isn’t carried in Canada? Hard to find. I did see that Walmart carried it but I had to order on line. A two pack is $49 Canadian. Amazon sells one can for $49. So Walmart is half price I guess. Sort of
I’ll be ordering set screws from the only place in Canada that we can and the lady there is very knowledgeable and friendly.
Wow, that's crazy-expensive! I would use Lee Valleys Blue Wax, if I were there. Scott
Ron here in Calgary, I did a bit of research a couple of years back and found that trewax was very close to Johnson’s the benefit being it is available in Canada and is more affordable.
Scott, thank you for sharing your knowledge with us. I look forward to each release.
@@rschafer8684 It absolutely it. I didn’t realize you had access to Trewax otherwise I would have suggested it first. Any past wax that is made for furniture that also mentions carnauba wax. Avoid automotive wax. Scott
Ace Hardware has single piece parts.
Scott-I am unable to download the two links you set out about the set screws.
Thanks
Barringer Safety
Jon Hunter
Hey Jon. They open as downloads but your browser may see them as pop ups. Look for the pop up blocker or perhaps try the link in a different browser. Scott
Thanks, Scott, great information that can save aggravation if not known about . . . 'pay attention, kids !'
Great info as always! Thanks, you teach us all so much.
My pleasure! Scott
ChrisEG
This question is not related to this video, but is a Totalshop vs Shopsmith question. I have ordered a Shopsmith Mark VII. I am selling my Totalshop and it would be good to have an answer to a potential question concerning replacement of the Belt on my Totalshop if it were to break or wear out. Where does one get a replacement? Is it identical to the Shopsmith Mark V ?
Chris, so sorry for the slow reply. I'm not sure it the OEM Shopsmith belts will work or not, but I'm confident that the Taiwanese factory that made them didn't have unique belts produced for them. The to belts should have markings on them that any reputable belt supply should be able to match. At least that's my belief. BTW, congratulations of your upgrade to the Mark 7! Scott
Is there an adjustment advice for the aluminum collar with the cupped set screw that sits behind the arbor? I'm sure there must be a specific purpose for that collar but I don't know what it is.
Yes. The collar first and foremost will protect the bearing. Additionally, it is used to eliminate some of the endshake from the arbor. I may need to do a video on this, but there may already be one on Jacob Anderson’s channel, so I suggest searching there in the mean time. The portion of the spindle that passes through the bearing is 5/8” in diameter, but behind the bearing it is slightly larger. By pulling out on the spindle while pressing in on that aluminum ring while tightening the set scre you can insure that there is little to no play between them. Additionally. There may be shims behind or in front of the bearing which is held in place by a large snap ring. They combine to additionally eliminate end play there. I hope that clears some things up. Scott
Hey Scott, I've been binge watching your videos. I've been learning a ton of stuff from you and really appreciate your knowledge of these machines! My dad recently gave his old Mark V to me, and although I have operated it plenty in the past. . . It's been quite a few years (Like 20) since I had operated it; until recently. I have other stand alone machines, but I am limited on shop space. I have an opportunity to buy a "Greenie" with a jointer and 6" belt sander for $350!! The machine has a pretty uniform layer of surface rust, but I don't think it isn't anything WD-40, Scotch Brite, and elbow grease can't fix. Of course your wash polyurethane coat too. Was that built by during the Magna years? Were there dust collection ports on those units back then? Have they changed much between the "greenies" to the "goldies" and say the Shopsmith grey models through the 90's? Thanks for the set screw tips today. I never thought about it before!
$350 is a great deal! Yes, the green Mark V's were made during the Magna Engineering years while the Goldies were introduced in 1960 by Yuba Power Products and continued in 1961 by Magna American. The earliest versions of the Goldie had 3/4HP motors but then the were beefed-up to 1 1/8HP and the internal dive was changed from a cogged Gilmer drive belt to the current Poly-V belt drive. No, there was no dust collection in those early days and once Shopsmith Inc. came into being in the 1970's they introduced several guards and dust chutes until the Mark V model 510 came into being in the min 1980's. The guards that were introduced for the 510 are great but unless you upgrade to the larger 510/20 carriage and table the best you can do is to get the most current guard for the 500 model, which was last sold in the 1990's. Scott
Half dog point set screws would work perfectly so you don’t have to grind cup points.
Exactly. If only they were as readily available on a Saturday.
@@MyGrowthRings I just meant it could be a better option than paying Shopsmith price for their screws.
@@bradhillig9844 Agreed. I would never order just set screws alone from SS.
Scott, that miter gauge threaded screw is probably not a screw but a tapered pipe plug! (I wish my Shopsmith was in a cold basement, mine is on the porch. I can bring in the miter gauge later and measure the expanding screw.) This seems like a plausible part since it is off the shelf rather than a custom bit, so would be cheaper for Shopsmith to buy that than to tool up to make. [edit] NOPE, it might still be based on the 1/8" tapered pipe plug (though the McMaster-Carr ones use a 3/16 hex wrench). I measured 27TPI but the Shopsmith one is a short fitting and has no bottom, my "tool kit" will push right through it. Back to the drawing board. Shopsmith get's almost $7.00 for the tapered screw. The McMaster-Carr plug starts at 99 cents each depending on material. McMaster-Carr also has a "non-marring" set screw in various lengths, 50 for $9.91.
I've often suspected that but have never been able to find an exact replacement.
@@MyGrowthRings It is oddball, but I think Shopsmith had a few special parts made, I seem to recall a 3/8 set screw with a non-standard 5/32" socket, too. I think I may buy a couple of plugs and try grinding them down to the correct length just for "fun", the socket hole size will still be wrong, but it might be useful for Shopsmith owners with less access to parts from the USA.
@@mikeking7470 Yep, I recall that too.
Yep, another fine video, thanks.
Thanks, Berry.
Used to be you could replace lots of parts on a Shopsmith from the hardware store, just look at the old magna jointer manual. Any theory's why they stopped doing that?
Magna Engineering originally came to market by selling through hardware stores and Montgomery Ward and that approach continued into the 1960's until the Shopsmith line was sold to Magna American and put on the shelf in Mississippi. When Shopsmith Inc. was formed to revive the line in the 1970's the originally attempted to sell through Hardware stores again, but very few took them up on that offer because many were left with new old stock from the old Magna Engineering/Yuba/Magna American days. So Shopsmith Inc. moved forward with their second idea, which was to sell them through their own retail stores. That continued until Shopsmith Inc. had over 50 stores, but those were closed in the 1990's. Anyway, more info than you asked for, but that's why. Scott
So..after watching this I ran out to the shop and pulled out the setscrew bag from my Shopsmith Help kit. oh my, different lengths. Some had the cupped ends you talked about, some were short and some were longer. Some had tapered flat tips while others the flat tip seemed to go almost the whole width of the screw. So...this begs the question - which ones do your use where?
Hal, Take a look at the PDF download in the video description. It shows you every single setscrew used on every single Shopsmith tool. Also, on the Shopsmith Help Kit page you will see a breakdown with part numbers of each of the set screws that are included. Compare that to the PDF. Let me know if you still have questions. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings the link takes me back to the same page. I can get Dusty's chart but not the "EXCELLENT set screw chart".
I don't quite get it because it works for me. Here it is again: shopsmith.com/ss_forum/download/file.php?id=42180
@@hfmann1 Note that the link will begin a download and that may be blocked by a pop-up blocker.
@@MyGrowthRings well that was it. A little message "security alert" was hidden at the bottom of my screen. Got it now. Much thanks
Maybe tap in a heli-coil where real estate may be limited (or you just don't feel like playing with the drill press quite that much...). Good info!
Agreed. Great tip. Scott
Can't find any info on the set screws for the turning faceplates. My 6" plate was slipping badly and this video made me check the screw more closely. The 5/8" screw was obviously a cupped one but the cupped tip was badly crushed. It looked more like it was deformed from tightening rather than purposefully. What type is supposed to be in this 6" faceplate?
Hal, did you take a look at the set screw chart that I linked to? It should have the proper set screw listed.
@@MyGrowthRingsI searched that doc and I couldn't find any reference to faceplates. Furthermore I didn't find any 3/8" diameter screws listed.
@@hfmann1 Hal, I’m not aware that 3/8” Ø set screws were ever used for faceplates. Are you sure about that? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings yes - I took this 6" faceplate to Fastenal and they used a simple 3/8" bolt to confirm. I bought a box of 3/8 -16 x 3/8 which fit fine. I think I bought the faceplate from SS. It appears to be cast iron (?) and Shopsmith is cast into the back side between the ribs.
Hi my shopsmith quill spring broke. After replacing spring what is the method to adjust quill spring tension. Anyone no a vdo on how to do this or have the correct method.
It’s funny you would ask that, because I was just thinking about covering that. Can you wait a couple days? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings heck yes. My used shopsmith is coming along. It was so rusted is would not even move. I have vdo of what i have been doing if you like to see. I have markv11. I no not many around.
When grinding off the cup, do you need to grind it totally flat or just get most of it so it doesn't have the sharp edge biting into the spindle?
The flatter you get it the better, though if you get most of it flat you'll be good to go. . Scott
Great video Scott. I've watched all your videos and they have helped me immensely in fixing and upgrading my '94 Mark V (510). I have noticed recenly that there is now a hook and loop option for the disc sander. After watching this video, it looks like your disc sander uses the original method of self adhisive bond to the disc. Do you recommend moving to the new hook and loop setup? Curious to get your thoughts on this. Thanks!
Hey Skip. H&L abrasives work fine on random orbit sanders on large surfaces, but on edges and ends of boards they tend to round over what should be sharp corners. For a small shop they are handy because you can switch back and forth between grits without ruining the paper, but I much prefer having a couple steel discs dedicated to the most common grits, and I'll take the hit for the occasional abrasive disc that gets tossed a little too soon. Great question! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for quick response.
Hey Scott. Have a question for you that I can't resolve myself. I've had my ShopSmith since 1973 and have not upgraded all the tables, etc. But I did upgrade to the PowerPro head, doing a self upgrade. All went fairly well except for missing the teeny tiny small print about this Quill lock NOT TO USE when removing the quill. Yet. I bent the housing a bit so the quill doesnt move fluidly and smoothly any more and it will not retract automatically when fully extended. But that is not the issue at hand for me. I recently upgraded to the latest 12" sanding disk and added the dust collector that slips onto the quill housing. Well, it is the noisiest, more irritating rattling contraption I have ever had. Is there something that I should do or didn't do? The noise sounds like it's coming from the head itself but when I take the sanding disk off and remove the dust collector, the noise goes away. I no longer use my ShopSmith for all of its capabilities. . .just occasionally run the bandsaw when I need to have a second one in the shop or need the horizontal boring capability or, in the case of the upgrade, have need for a 12" disk sander. But I find that I rarely use it since it's noisy. Any thoughts? thanks in advance.
One last thing. i upgraded the castors on the body and when I put them down to move the machine, it drags on the concrete floor. I sent a note to ShopSmith but only received a snippy note back telling me to use the washers. Or redrill the holes. Basically it was a " here's an answer, now go away" kind of note. Not the ShopSmith I remember at all.
Regards, Dave
Hey Dave. Noises are hard to diagnose in text, but can you narrow down one thing for me? I’m wondering if there’s a connection between the over tightening of the quill lock and the noise you are hearing. If you pull the quill completely out, perhaps that noise is the casting being broken off, or perhaps the washer or washers being in the wrong spot? As for the caster issue, I experienced the same thing and the solution was indeed the addition of washers between the caster and the caster assembly. Unfortunately the remedy requires that the machine be flipped over and you’ll need to use a long straight edge that runs from the feet on one side to the other, which will simulate the poison of the floor to the casters. With that you’ll be able to check where the wheels are at each location of the pedals. I sure hope that makes sense! I almost cleverer this in my video, but sadly I didn’t and I’ve since removed the “upgrade” and gave the red casters away. Scott
Thanks Scott. What did you replace the red casters with? It’s been years since I upgraded them and no longer have the 1973 originals. 🤣
@@pdwoodwerkz9625 I returned the caster assembly back to the original position and installed these casters: amzn.to/3z2RJm4 I did a video on this, which I’ll track down for you.
Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/6QsQRujXnbM/v-deo.html
Scott can you tell mw what metal the lower saw is made from. I am rehabilitating a 510 from the early 1980's and the collar that attaches the saw guard to the spindle is broken. There was definitely a small defect in the casting right near where the the head of the allen cap screw is located. I am considering tig brazing but not sure of the metal content. Also what is the the function of the flathead allen bolt at the 6 o'clock position on the lower saw guard where it attaches to the spindle. Thanks for any help.
Hey Robert. That's going to be a tough challenge and I wish you luck. It's made of die cast aluminum. The flat head bolt is there to align the riving knife with the saw blade.
Great video!!!!
Thanks!!
Scott,
Great content about getting the proper set screws. I've got a question that is unrelated to set screws, etc. It has to do with coming up with an idea for a handicapped woodworker. Is there an address I can use, to send you an email?
Frank Albert
Hey Frank. Sure, but solutions depend on the handicap. I've known some excellent woodworkers who were blind, some who were in a wheelchair, some who were missing digits and limbs and more. People are resilient and where there's a will, there's someone contesting it! My email is my name: ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
So how do I get the jacobs off if it will not budge even after removing the set screw?
Sounds like you either have a burr or rust. The best way will be to use a wedge between the chuck and the aluminum ring. I would make one from hardwood on the bandsaw, or you could use a plastic tree felling wedge, but you'll probably have to sharpen it to a finer point on a belt sander or disc sander. Good luck, and you've got this! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thank you 😊 I will try this. I do not have a shop Smith, I have one of the knock offs, I think it is called the wood master. It was my My daddy’s years ago and it was sold a couple of times and the last time it was to my brother-in-law‘s dad. So I bought it because it was my daddy’s and that is where I got my love for woodworking. It is a bit rusty here and there and who knows probably a burr too with my luck! I also have the jointer for it which is a bit rusted that I have not refurbished yet or should I ssay I have not attempted to refurbish yet as I can barely pick it up. Thanks again!
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you again, I was able to get it off of the headstock and there was a bur as well as some rest that was holding it.So thank you again!
@@crystal_gayle4156 I did a couple videos on removing rust from a SS jointer that might be helpful. It isn’t hard, but it is messy work. I have a couple of the clones but haven’t owned a Wood Master yet. They had an interesting model just as they dropped from the market. I always wondered if they ever produced it or just made a sales flier. It was distinctive in that it had t-slots on the top of the headstock. Anyway, glad to hear you are getting her back is fighting shape. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have actually already watched at least one of your videos on a rusted jointer, I will have to find the other and watch that. I was talking to my dad today because I couldn’t wait to tell him that I finally got it to where I could turn a small spindle and he told me the reason that he bought that over the Shopsmith was that it had a cast iron table for the saw.
Another old video?
This video was uploaded 2 years ago. Are you just now seeing it?
Questions comments and Cheap Shots…@#$&