The "Business End" of the Shopsmith Bandsaw: Upper and Lower Guides and Bearings
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- SHOP NOTES: Previously we investigated the Auto-Tracking and the Tension System of the Shopsmith 11" bandsaw, so in this video, we will move to the "Business End" of the saw and study the Upper and Lover blade guides and thrust bearing. We also talk a bit about the evolution of modern bandsaws and even take a brief look at a Taiwanese clone of the Shopsmith bandsaw, which was imported and sold by Total Shop.
🔴 Please consider joining the 100+ other channel members in supporting the channel and get access to perks: / @mygrowthrings
💡 Here's an idea: If you aren't ready or able to join the channel, you can always support the channel by watching, clicking the thumbs-up, commenting, sharing, and by clicking through the provided links whenever you are shopping on Amazon or eBay. You don't even need to purchase the items these links lead to, but by going through these links they'll reward us with a small "finders fee". Thanks in advance for the support!
Here's the link to our previous bandsaw video, which covered the Auto-Tracking and Tensioning System: • How to Tune a Shopsmit...
Products used in this video (in no particular order):
🛒 Timber Wolf 1/2" x 72" 4 TPI bandsaw blade for the Shopsmith bandsaw: amzn.to/34ShtU5
🛒 Two options for a "Shopsmith Toolbox" AKA: Long 5/32 Inch Cushion Grip Hex T-Handle T-Key Allen (hex) wrench: amzn.to/3lAx7tg but a better deal might be this twofer deal: amzn.to/2Dj7ETO
Visit www.MyGrowthRin...
Follow on Instagram @MyGrowthRings
I also blog at www.tool-hunter...
and shopsmith-tool-...
DISCLAIMER:
A few viewers have requested I provide affiliate links to help them find the products I use and as a way of supporting the channel through commission. If you purchase a product or service with the links I provide, there is no additional charge to you. As an Amazon Associate and an eBay affiliate, I may earn a commission from qualifying purchases. I always recommend shopping around for a better price. Thank you for supporting My Growth Rings!
#Shospmith #ShopsmithBandsaw #TotalShopBandsaw
Scott, thank you for the series on the bandsaw. I bought mine when my daughter was 6 years old, she is 39 now, bandsaw still helping build small boats. My tension device has a snap ring that holds it to the pivot and it is ratcheting when I tension the blade. And tricks to cleaning/lubricating it? Over the years I have made all the mistakes you mentioned in your videos, after your tuneup the saw works great. What a clever design!
I'm so happy to hear that it has served you so long and so well. I'm not sure that I understand what you mean by ratcheting. Yes, that entire assembly can be taken apart and cleaned and lubricated. It's been a while since I've seen one that needed that level of care, but you can use lithium grease on the bearing surface, and I use a Teflon-based spray lubricant on the threads and anything that feel like it needs it.
Thanks Scott, I will remove the entire upper arm and clean it up. By ratcheting I mean when I aim for 1/4 inch tension, I will tighten the screw, nothing happens then it pops and overshoots to a higher tension.
Shopsmith best videos available! Thank you.
@@jayknight850 Got ya! Yeah, that’s likely a lube issue. Thanks for your kind words!
I go back and watch this video annually, or anytime I do a tuneup on my bandsaw. My bandsaw works beautifully since I have been doing my tuneup as per your advice. Thank you
Great to hear!
Its wonderful Scott, to refer back to these when needed. I was fighting an upper guide alignment, watched this reminder, and voila, I revealed my stupid! lol Thanks again for all of your content.
Glad it helps and thanks for the encouragement.
I have owned and used Shopsmith equipment since mid eighties. I am amazed to find out how much I did not know about this fine machine. Keep ir coming. Many thanks
Awesome! Well, now you know. Scott
Love the industrial history Scott. If it wasn’t for UA-cam that kind of stuff would be lost to time.
I suppose there’s a lot of truth to that. I’ve shared a lot of this in blog posts and on various woodworking forums over the years, but it is nice to finally get some of this on video. Thanks for watching. Scott
That really helped me understand why my bandsaw runs better when I set it up true to Shopsmith form. Excellent video.
WOW! You keep invigorating my desire to use the Shopsmith more than it's current use (tablesaw/sander only) ..Thank you good sir for your informative (motivational!) videos
That's great to hear. Thanks for the encouragement and I know your Shopsmith misses you too! Scott
So many things I did take the time to learn. Mine is a MK5 from late 70s. Upgrades include 220v motor and 510 table
Hey Scott,
I just wanted to say a huge thank you goes out to you. I have been looking for a bandsaw that I could do resawing with up to about 5"without spending a lot of money.. After investigating I bought my first used Shopsmith Bandsaw with the power base yesterday for $100.00. It needs some love and I'm so glad i found your videos they are so helpful and easy to understand. So far for everything question i have you have answered in one of your videos. Thanks again keep up the good work!
Thanks for your kind words. $100 is a great price and once you get her tuned up you are gonna love it! Scott
Definitely informative. I just got through prepping a second bandsaw I bought recently. This confirms my work. I got it right based on your presentation. Keep these coming. I have three Shopsmiths. I love them.
Fantastic. Don’t you love it when the information you need just happens to be available? I appreciate you watching and commenting. Scott
Thank you, Great info. my SS bandsaw has been out of adjustment for some time. Now I know what to do to get it back in adjustment. Again, thx.
Excellent. Glad it came in handy. Scott
You might again discuss the hidden features of the SSmith bandsaw. They are important. The information you provide is, most excellent. Good on yuh!
Excellent Scott. So helpful. I'm anxious now to get out to the shop today and examine the thrust bearing alignment under the table. Wonder if I'll have to take the table off to see it well enough.
Glad to hear it. I doubt that you'll need to remove the table, but even if you do, it's not that big of a deal to remove. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks
@@hfmann1 You bet!
Wonderfully interesting.
The historical superiority of the Shopsmith many Shopsmith tools should be known. Thank you for another very interesting video.
Thanks John. Yeah, they really are clever tools. Scott
Thanks Scott, Very informative. I love all of the technical info and the history.
Thanks, Pete. I'm glad you have found them helpful because I can't help myself! Scott
Wow! Just found this. I have cussed at my BS since I bought it in1990. Even took it back to the store ( yep, bought it at a SS store) and got no satisfaction. Eager to get at it now and see if I can improve it. My SS is in my garage next to my new SawStop (another SS🙂) Use the BS a lot, and disk sander. I have done a lot of stuff on it, but the new SawStop is a much better table saw. It was about twice the 1990 cost of the SS. Thanks for the video.
Glad you found it helpful, Thomas, but it bums me a little that the folks at the old SS store weren't able to help you. You've gone way too long not being happy with your BS! Scott
Thanks for the great video Scott! I love my Shopsmith equipment, but had very little knowledge of the industrial history. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching, Mark. Happy to share. Scott
Another quirk to consider with the locking shaft which raises and lowers the upper blade guide and roller. While this shaft may lock securely in place, it is subject to sideways movement, allowing the cut to wander off of true if a rip fence is used for resaw work. I modified my bandsaw by adding a couple of long brass screws which reach through the outer shell of the saw, and into the gib which holds the sliding shaft. Once the Shaft is raised or lowered to the desired position for the cut, I lock it as usual, but then I tighten the two screws I added, so the shaft absolutely cannot move laterally. Of course I have to remember to loosen these screws before raising or lowering the shaft for cutting thicker or thinner stock.
That’s a really interesting modification. I’ve never felt the need to do that, but you’re absolutely right, that is one point that could use some reinforcements. I’d love to see a picture of your solution. My email address is MrToolHunter(at)Gmail(dot)com if you would care to share. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings later tonight.
Another little quirk which is possible, relates to the guide blocks themselves. You will notice that the angles are different on each end of each guide block. When reversed, they will put a 45 degree twist in the blade, so that the bandsaw can be used as a cutoff saw for longer board stock, as long as it is not wider than about 8 or 10 inches. When the blade is i its conventional alignment you can not make a cutoff longer than about 11 1/2 inches. Personally, I do not like putting that twist in the blade as I believe it puts additional stress on the blade, shortening its life. The attraction is that you are enabled to cut off stock that is nearly 6 inches thick, and whatever length you can physically handle safely. (using a table saw to cut thick stock, you would have to have the blade as high as it would go, make a cut, turn the board over and cut again, trying to get the two cuts in line with each other.)
You are absolutely correct and that was something I planned on mentioning in the mid-week video, but just like you, it isn’t a process that I like to use. If the SS BS was the only saw I had available that feature might actually come in handy. Thanks for bringing it up. Scott (Sorry, but I sent my first reply from the wrong account)
Thanks Scott, you covered all bases.
We’re getting there. Thanks for watching!
Scott, These bandsaw videos have been invaluable in helping me diagnose/rebuild/repair my SS bandsaw. I have a question for you about the Timber Wolf blades: In his bandsaw repair video Jacob Anderson mentions that the Timber Wolf brand blades need to be a lighter tension than the indicator scale would set them to. Have you found that to be the case and if so, how do you account for it in your setup?
I haven’t ever made an accommodation for them, so I’m curious to know what Jacob knows that I don’t. I trust his experience. Scott
I have an old Woodmaster SS Clone. I bought it basically unused and complete for $125. The motor is fantastic (220 volt 1 7/8 HP), but the lathe tool rest simply came apart the first time I used it and the live center as well. Needless to say it is accumulating real SS parts to compensate. My SS bandsaw would not slide into the toolpost openings... I use it as a backup tool. only. Had wanted to convert it to a shorty, but it just doesn't fit the SPT's
Yeah, I know your machine. Do you happen to have their last model with the T-slots in the carriage? I don’t believe they sold many of them before they folded. The reverse engineering is what caused those issues, so running the SS SPTs using some other power source is probably your best plan of attack. You could purchase the newer, offset posts from the SS SPT’s and that might help. Thanks for dropping by, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I've thought about having the posts machined to fit. If I can adapt SS parts it's a strong runner.
Extremely well done. Keep up the good work
Thanks, will do!
Scott,, I’ve just discovered your videos, which are very helpful and enjoyable to watch. You have a great style in front of the camera! I look forward to catching up with all your videos! Thanks, Charlie
Comment of the day! Thanks for the encouragement, Charlie, and welcome. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Do you cover bandsaw fence alignment in any of your videos? Also, do you have any experience with the Carter F.A.S.T bars for bandsaw fence alignment? Thanks so much for your help!
@@charliebirdwell2258 Hey Charlie. I covered the Shopsmith fence alignment in this video: ua-cam.com/video/5lqzmibP3vg/v-deo.html As for the F.A.S.T. blocks, I think you will see that the method I use is similar, but perhaps more precise. I'll let you be the judge of that. Great question. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Wow, thanks for the quick response! You have rejuvenated my woodworking with your great tips. I am making this a good day, thanks to you!
@@charliebirdwell2258 Excellent. That's all I ask! Scott
1/4" and 1/8" blades have a tendency to jumb out of the guide blocks...for those blades, take a very hard wood like hard maple/purple heart and replace the horitiontal guide block, remove the angled one... in the new horitzontal block cut a kerf about 5/16" (before installing it... the blade will run in the kerf (wood will nut dull them). takes care of most of the "jumb" out problem, especially with 1/8"
Nice solution.
Scott, perhaps you've found a niche on your youtube channel for Shopsmith that is unlike anyone else. Starting here with the bandsaw. Giving an in depth look at the tool, and providing the history, design characteristics and features that no other youtube channel or blog could or would do. Maybe do this for each S.P.T. of the Shopsmith, and the whole system itself? Breaking the tool(s) down into segments. Covering each tool over multiple videos.
I think that’s where I’m heading. I love these tools and am not trying to sell them, so you’ll get the unvarnished truth, at least as I see it. I’m sure folks are wondering why I have barely touched the Mark V, but that’s because I have plans that require a bit more prep. Thanks for watching and for the encouragement. Scott
This was great detailed description of the bandsaw and I learned a lot.
Question. I have seen upgrades for the bearings. Have you seen these and what do you think about them?
Great question and that one is worth answering on the mid-week vid, but the short answer is yes, I think they are a great investment. Scott
Always good information! Thanks.
Thanks for dropping in again. Scott
Did shopsmith ever build or design a larger bandsaw? I bought one and I really like it. I noticed a lot of the small differences that you have been talking about and I immediately thought, can you scale up all of these features and make a 14, 16 or bigger bandsaw. Thanks for your incite.
They designed and built a prototype that could be expanded for resawing but it never made it to production. What brand is your saw? Inca made one that had a few of the same features. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings mine is a shopsmith bandsaw cat. No. 502751. It's the one with out a dust port and with out the adjustment window in the cover. Is there anything I should look out for in this older model?
I would love on3 of these multiple tool ShopSmith machines my friend..
Did you see my most recent videos where I announced that we are giving one away?
Hi Scott, with your guidance I have my circa 1984 SS bandsaw humming along nicely. It is an impressive tool. Although I appreciate the compact size of the cast iron table most of the time, sometimes I've wished for something larger, and with the option of using a precision fence (instead of the homemade wooden fence and c-clamps I use now). Have you done a video addressing this issue?
I don't and probably should. As I've mentioned on a few videos I like both tables and wouldn't consider changing from one to the other. Keep watching and I'll do some things with my saw that has the cast iron table in the near future. Scott
very nice. thanks.
Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings quick question on the bandsaw. I have not used mine much until recently. I am now making a garden bench that calls for curve cuts on 2 3/4in arms and legs. the question is what is the best size blade to use. I am using the 1/4in blade so I can cut the curves, but not sure if that one is too small. your view?
An excellent bit of display in detail shows that the upper and lower guide bearings are fixed. They do not move when the blade guides are shifted back and forth. These two bearings are fixed - not adjustable. An important consideration for parallelism in the two adjusting screws for the upper guide support shaft, is that the effect on the upper guide bearing must be consistent throughout the 6" range of travel of the upper guide support shaft...only possible when the two adjusting screws are equally adjusted.
Exactly! I realized that wasn't clear when I re-watched that after it went live, so I will hit on that point later in the week as well. Just goes to show you how many important details there are in understanding this well-engineered machine. Thanks for watching and for chiming in! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings For one reason or another, some SS users have observed that their bandsaw tables are not square to the cutting edge (or the back edge) of the blade. This is a non-adjustable dimension, so something must be assembled badly or something is bent. (a 6 inch square laid on the table at tooth's edge shows nearly an eigth-inch gap at the upper limb of the square, on the OP's posting). This angle must be square in order for the saw to even be able to cut in a curve or circle, especially in thick stock. Do you have a means of illustrating this alignment issue and the problem it presents in a curve?
Thomas Koehler Oh yes, I have absolutely seen this. I have wondered if it is an error in the casting of the aluminum table, because I don’t believe I’ve ever seen it with a cast-iron table. It can be corrected by shimming but I’m not sure that the error doesn’t return if the table is tilted. I’ll do some playing with my bandsaws (I have 5 and two Total Shop bandsaws) to confirm my suspicions. I appreciate the comment and yes, I will work that into the mid week episode. I really appreciate your help! Scott
Thanks again for the great info Scott. Do you have a source for new thrust bearings for the shopsmith bandsaw? Shopsmith doesn't sell them individually any more (at least not that I could find). Love all your videos!!
I don’t, but Googling the number on the bearing should lead you to a source.
Great tips sir!. Audio is a little rough for listening I wonder what's up with that.
Yes it was! I was trying something new using that Bluetooth headset you see around my neck. I have purchased something to try for this coming weekend and hopefully that will solve that problem. Thanks for watching and for the feedback, Scott
I wish you use some compressed air to blow the wood dust off that bottom piece. I find myself blowing at it as I'm watching.
Funny how my 1960's craftsman bandsaw with it's aluminum body halves have a similar look to the shopsmith.Were they sharing design ideas?
Not to my knowledge. Magna and Yuba were the companies that made the Shopsmith line in the 60’s and though Magna made tools for Montgomery Ward I don’t think they made anything for Sears. I would love a pic of your saw and would be happy to do some research. If you are interested be sure to snap a pic with the cover on and off and a pic of the nameplate and serial number would be helpful. You can email me at mrtoolhunter(at)gmailDOTcom Scott
Great information as always on the history and the use of the shop smith.
I find myself the owner of both SS and the total shot units.
In looking for the everything I wanted to put on my total shop a found a good price on a SS. lol this one had a total shop band saw on it so it’s like it was meant to be I put it back on my total shop.
I installed new tires on it but it would Not take a SS blade. You what happen to know the blade size for the total shop ?
It should use the same 72” long blade. Does the SS appear to be too long or short?
With the new tires 2 BLUE MAX ULTRA DUTY .125 URETHANE BAND SAW TIRES FOR DELTA BS150LS BAND SAW 72 is too long. the top wheel hits the cover when it’s in place. Old tire was rubber and thicker , also there’s a 1/4 different between SS and total shop diameter. SS being the larger wheel. Are you running a 72 inch blade on your total shop ?
I saw there is a 71.75 inch stock size. How should I determine the right length of blade?
Any help with this is appreciated.
Lol can you do a video on you total shop.
@@jaysoncheney Well, I guess I was mistaken. I suggest checking out this blade length calculator: www.toolcenter.com/calculate-blade-length.html
Jayson Cheney Just in case you missed it, I posted a video last night that answered the question about the TotalShop bandsaw blade length, and you are right, it’s not 72”. Scott
Jayson Cheney Dang it, I was logged into the wrong account! That last comment was from me. Scott
Something that was kind of inferred from the discussion is that you are supposed to un-tension your bandsaw between uses?
Oh yea. I talked about that in another vid. If you know that you are going to store the saw for a week or more it is always better to remove the tension a bit. That's why I drilled an access hole into the side of the cover so I can remove the tension without removing the cover. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings OR, i guess you can purchase one of the new covers which has a window and access to the tensioning screw. Not sure why they didnt build that into the original design. 🤷♂️ thanks for all of the tips!
@@markb8954 A number of bandsaw manufacturers had their gauge inside their machine and required The cover to be removed to access it, so it really wasn’t that unusual when the saw was brought to market. What changed was when Shopsmith removed the knobs and went to bolts to attach the cover in order to meet Canadian standards. That made making tension adjustments with the cover off a pain in the butt!
The guide block holders. Made out of two types of metal. The back side that slides in and out with the use of the adjustment screw/knob is apparently steel and the other side which holds the guide blocks each with a set screw, is not. Mine was completely rusted on the steel end. DO NOT PUT THIS PIECE IN RUST REMOVER. I did. The end that holds the guide blocks has been greatly compromised and I don’t think it is usable. I now need to try and find where to order these parts.
These are still in production at Shopsmith and often pop-up used on eBay, but be careful, some of the eBay parts are from clones.
I found them on the Shopsmith website. Only $11ea
Jason Kelsey Excellent! I think a lot of folks forget that they are still alive and well.
I made all of the adjustments you showed in the video on my Shopsmith bandsaw. For the life of me, I can't seem to get mine to cut curves at all. I have a new quarter-inch blade on it with proper tension and it won't even cut a simple lazy-S curve on a 3/4 inch piece of plywood without the blade flexing hard to the left or right to the point where it burns the wood. Any thoughts as to what might be out of adjustment?
Steve, I know this is going to sound crazy, but I have two "Is it plugged-in" type of questions for you. Are the teeth moving downward, towards the table when it is running and are the teeth on the blade faring down? It is possible to have the blade flipped-over and some folks have also mounted their bandsaw on the wrong end of the Mark V.
@@MyGrowthRings Yep. Teeth are facing toward me, pointing down Bandsaw is to the left of the headstock.
Steve Mendenhall All good. I suspect it’s just a poor quality blade. I’ve bought those!
@@MyGrowthRings You nailed it, Scott. I put an SS 1/8" blade on and it cuts tight curves with no problem. Guess I'll stick with brand-name parts from now on. Thanks for your help!
Steve Mendenhall Glad to hear it!
Scott, what is the chronology of your videos? I am trying to binge watch the set and keep having to search for the videos. Are they at least numbered?
That would have been smart! There are playlists for each tool that you can find on my channel page: www.UA-cam.com/MyGrowthRings though I haven’t been totally consistent adding them there. Scott
I just inherited a SS band saw from a neighbor. My lower thrust bearing does not touch the back of the blade. How can I adjust?
Hey Phil, I suggest backing off the top bearing until the blade runs against the lower bearing and the auto-track bearings on the left. The blade should run against the auto-track bearings and the lower bearings, but be just ahead of the upper bearings until you apply a board against the blade. They can always be brought back into working service, so take it slow and get to know her. Scott
Great video, Scott! Always enjoy your knowledge. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Bill.
I just started watching your videos and they are amazing and very informative. I am new to the SS community and have a Mark V 500 that is new to me I am refurbishing everything to be able to use a lot. Previous owner kind of let it go to.. well you know what I mean. I have a few (probably easy) questions for you. What do you recommend for getting proper alignment of the table with the blade? What is the correct alignment of the tension indicator scale with the tension spring (I noticed that your tension spring is far more vertical than mine when tensioning a 3/8 blade) so that I can properly tension the blades? What do you recommend when the shaft that the table clamp bolt goes through actually turns when you tighten the tilt lock causing it not to tighten all the way (which causes the table to still tilt even when you tighten it all the way)? Thank you very much for all of these videos and any help you can provide for my issues.
Hey John. I’ve done a couple Shopsmith bandsaw vids and in one of them I talk about adjusting the table to the blade. Short answer is a one time shimming is required. Also, I talked about tensioning in another vid, but to set the scale properly, with the tension off the wheel you loosen the screw in the steel gauge and swing the top left edge of the scale so that it just covers the red edge of the leaf spring. As for the tilt bolt, it sounds like something is wrong. I would compare what’s there to the exploded parts diagram in the manual to make sure that everything is in the right place. Hope that helps, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Yes, sorry I watched the table shim video after my comment... lol. I did see the tensioning video but it did not show the exact alignment but you have explained it better now so thank you very much for that. As for the tilt bolt, I did compare to the SS bandsaw book I have and all of the parts are there and in the correct places. The issue is the sleeve inside that the front bolt goes through turns as well once I get it tightened as much as it will currently go. That sleeve shouldn't turn because it is suppose to hold that bolt tight. I did see in one video that one of your bandsaws has a regular hex bolt in the front and the stock bolt in the back. Was that because of this kind of issue? Thank you so much for your excellent reply and your awesome videos.
@@johnschroeder5308 Yes, this is a problem that I've seen before. The original design used carriage bolts, while the newer design uses a hex bolt in one location and a large flat head bolt in the other, connected by a plastic "yoke" that keeps them from spinning. Which version do you have?
@@MyGrowthRings yeah both of mine are carriage bolts with the small angled pieces on them that grab on to the yoke to stop then from spinning. The yoke is what is turning inside of the band saw shell that prevents it from tightening all the way.
@@MyGrowthRings Hey Scott just wanted to give you a quick update and maybe this can help others. So I was able to very easily pop out the yoke with a wider bolt and mallet. Inside of the frame as well as the outside of the yoke was very greasy. Cleaned it all up and then took an extra large flat head screwdriver and put it in the slot on the yoke on the opposite end that the carriage bolt grabs on to. Pounded it down about 3/4 inch to flare out the yoke just a little. Then reinserted the yoke smaller side first and it is now working great. No slipping at all and the table locks in place.
Do you ever talk about the planer ?
I have just a bit but haven’t demo’ed it because I don’t currently own a Shopsmith planer.
My bandsaw has the name "Atomic Ski" on it. What year might that saw been made?
No idea. It is a Shopsmith-style bandsaw?
Hi Scott, my upper guide adjustment is tight and I can't seem to get it loosened up. I've cleaned and then sprayed with dri-lube and run it in and out a few times with a screw driver. But it's still tight to the point where I can't finger adjust it. I always have to resort to using a screwdriver. Can I back it all the way out and actually remove it to get a better coat of lube on it (and potentially see if anything else is going on)?
Hey Dana, Yes, you can absolutely remove it and I have on occasion even filed a little burr or bump off that is in the parting line of the casting. It’s worth a look and you are right, you’ll be able to do a thorough waxing job if nothing else. Scott
Hey Scott, me again. Trying to get the BS set up properly. The guide block adjustment, both upper and lower, is very difficult, if not impossible. I took the adjusting knobs off completely. and got the upper all the way out by prying with a screwdriver, and it does not want to back in. Any words of wisdom?
Hey Thomas, I would scour the parts with ScotchBrite or steel wool and get them clean and shiny. After that go ahead and put some paste wax on them as long as nothing has been bent they should slide smoothly.
I have the earliest version of SS band saw. Keep it?
Sure! It is the basis of the current model, and everything available. Today is available as an upgrade to your machine, shouldn’t need upgrading. I would definitely keep it.
Great video. It's like you read my mind. Just a few hours before this was uploaded, I discussed this exact issue with my girlfriend, specifically the location of the lower guide blocks. I had two smaller Delta saws before I had my SS bandsaw and they were horribly inaccurate for the very reason you mentioned. I also like the knobs, and don't even get me started on thrust bearings that mounted perpendicular to the blade. When you do your midweek revisit, I would like to hear your thoughts regarding the cast iron vs. aluminum table. Our saw is currently set up with the cast iron table, but we actually have an aluminum table on hand and could easily change over. However, my GF prefers the cast iron table. She likes the feel of the cast iron, and the fact that the the miter gauge can be used as a fence. What are your thoughts?
That’s an excellent topic and I will definitely spend some time on that later in the week. Thanks for the suggestion. And tell your girlfriend to watch too... the analytics on my channel tell me we need more women woodworkers! Scott
I have been setting my craftsman bandsaw up so the bullets of the teeth are on the center of the tire. I heard that on some other video I believe.
That’s the technique fought by Alex Snodgrass and it’s probably correct for your bandsaw.
Has anyone ever come up with a side roller bearing replacement for the ShopSmith bandsaw, doing away with the brass guides? What type of upgrade that is available on 14-in band saws from other manufacturers.
Yes, Carter has just the ting. Check them out here: ua-cam.com/video/P-Uzrpp-nEQ/v-deo.html
I just purchased a SS and used it once. It cuts great but has a screeching noise that comes from the top. Is the blade too tight? It's not a SS blade so I had to adjust accordingly.
A Shopsmith bandsaw? The tension gauge will work accurately as long as the blade length is close. The noise is probably from the roller bearings in the upper wheel. They do need to receive grease from time to time and it’s one of those maintenance things that very few people even know they’re supposed to do. It’s an easy fix but I haven’t done a video on it yet. I’m sure there are several here on UA-cam in the mean time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thank you. I learned a lot from this video
Scott, Thanks for all the great videos. You did a bandsaw upper wheel, lower wheel, business end and probably a few more bandsaw videos. All great. One question I had with my brand new Mark 7 with plastic power coupler. I bought a used /great condition SS bandsaw with stand. I wanted to try putting on the Mark 7 and found just a slight bit of miss alignment. Not quite concentric left to right. Up and down is controlled by the tightening device. In your opinion, how much out of alignment can a coupler take? I'd guess I'm about 15 thou out. And can this be adjusted with rotating the tubes? So many thanks for all you do with your great videos.
Hey Tim, The posts that support the man saw on the Mark seven are slightly eccentric or offset. By loosening the setscrew inside the bandsaw that locks the posts in place, you can rotate them bringing the shaft into alignment. Be careful, because when you loosen them the bandsaw will want to drop down on the posts. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks Scott! You are correct...gotta have really robust thumbs while holding that saw up...and at the same time loosening that lockout! Next time...I'll block it up, then try rotating the eccentric tubes to bring it all in line.
@@piumartians Good call. You’ve got this.
@@MyGrowthRings Scott FYI the bandsaw I picked up in the used marketplace was mounted to a powerstation stand with motor...apparently no need for eccentric tubes because no need to align to the power coupler. Just straight tubes. I contacted ShopSmith customer service to see if those parts are available for sale. Thanks for all you do for us SS owners!
@@timpiumarta8490 Ah-ha! Yep, that has been known to happen. Glad you got it figured out. Scott
Thinking of getting a shopsmith , how tall is it in the upright mode? say for example when using it as a pillar drill
Hey Paul. Depends on which model Shopsmith you are talking about. A Mark V model 500 measures 76 1/4" to the very top when vertical. The current Mark 7 Power Pro measures 78 1/2" and the 1960’s Mark VII measures 63 1/4", which clearly give it an advantage where there’s a low ceiling. Scott
Many thanks
Ok, good info but please give the steps to adjustment. What first, then etc. Would be helpful.
I can imagine that happening someday. Thanks for the suggestion, Scott
This is very informative, thanks! Any advice for me on this....I somehow am 'that guy" you referenced that can't seem to get the upper guide aligned so that the movable guard locks tightly and getting the upper guides aligned with the bearing at all the various levels of board thickness you might use. Is it best to just start over and move the upper guide rail adjustments to their starting point and adjust from there? I've spent hours trying to get this right and to no avail. Any advice is appreciated. It's those two lockable adjustment screws that are giving me fits, and then the locking mechanism on the guard is always loose!
You beat me to my answer! Yes, start from neutral. Don't worry about the lock until the post is in the right location and moving up and down without moving forward and back. Once you get that right just tighten the leaf spring to get the lock to work. It's easer to turn the lever towards the back (locked) and bring the spring forward slowly until it locks the post in place. From there, try loosening the lock handle and it should move freely. Good luck! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Got it done and works good. Also installed the new "cool blocks" and they seem to be working ok. There is a great need for a shopsmith UA-cam channel that goes through the whole machine, how to use it, how to maintain it, etc. I have a 1984 Mark V 500 and would love to see all the various things it can do, and about the upgrade. Your knowledge puts you above the rest, so I think you have a winner channel here!
I saw a local ad with a 5 in 1 for sale and I bought it. I had no knowledge of Shopsmith or any of the knock-offs. I have come to find out that mine is a Total Shop with that exact HEAVY bandsaw as an extra piece to my 5 in 1. My question is this: Are you saying that my top wheel doesn't tilt? Other differences besides what you tell us in the video? Also, are there any folks out there who have more info on Total Shop (blogs, repair contacts, etc.). I feel like I am treated as if I have leprosy when I tell Shopsmith folks that I have this machine. I am aware that Total Shop is out of business.
Boy, do I ever understand that leprosy feeling! I get it. When the Taiwanese clones hit the shores in the 1980's inexpensive auto imports were upsetting the American auto industry and tools like this coming in from Taiwan were quite upsetting to the power tool industry. Companies like Shopsmith hunkered-down and intentionally pushed the clone owners aside, saying "If you need service, instruction and expertise, go ask the fly-by-night company you purchased your tool from instead of us." For me, those days are ancient history, and if you need help, you've got a friend in me. As for Total Shop exclusive instruction or blogs, I haven't found one yet and don't really see the need, which the exception of for tips on the repair of the internal components, which aren't interchangeable. Just think of yourself as the owner of an imported Shopsmith Mark V model 500. As for the bandsaw, it the upper wheel is mounted on the same type of arm that I show in the video, no, there's not a tilt adjustment on the wheel. Total Shop did make an early version of their saw that did have a tilting upper wheel, but it was a fail, wo they went back to the original SS design. Hope that helps, Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you so much for your good graces Scott! As for my Total Shop purchase, I bought it as is, which was a rusted bunch of tubes and parts with broken ball wheels and bent legs. I took apart every nut and bolt and restored EVERY piece. This was a blessing in disguise because it forced me to figure out how each piece worked. I learned a great deal. The only thing I didn't repair/restore were the bearings in the headstock because I learned from a guy (I think his last name was Mayo from a post in 2006) that the bearings aren't available since the Taiwanese company is no longer around. Is that true? Any aftermarket or interchangeable bearings that will fit? I know everything is in metric. How do you address this issue when you come across Total Shop headstocks?
God yes! Knobs.
Do you have one and does it have the cap screws?
@@MyGrowthRings I see I never replied. Yes, I acquired a 510 and it had the newer version of the bandsaw with the cap screws. Besides hating the cap screws, I also didn't really like the new table even though it was bigger. The main problem was I didn't inherit a BS fence. Since I'd gotten used to the cast iron table on my old one (and using the miter gauge as a fence), I decided to keep using the old one but transferred the new cover to it. Now I have the old saw with the benefits of the new cover - - and I keep my knobs!
@@danasmith8950 I agree, the old table works great with the miter gauge. Sounds like you have the best of old and new. Scott
Well, I guess that audio isn't going to work either... Oh well, sorry about that. Scott
Its not bad, its just not clean crisp but no big deal to me.
???????? Sounds like I’m on a walkie talkie!
True
How about "SS mid-wk tool talk" or "SS mid-wk Q&A"?
Will you show the tire replacement please?
I will, but I’m not sure when I’m going to find the time to do it. Are yours in bad shape? Scott
I did mine in no more than 5 min. Now was it right, I think but I used the Blue tires placed them in boiling water and with the tool you get its fairly easy from there.
@@MyGrowthRings They are the black old ones and I was thinking of upgrading to the red silicone ones. My name is also Scott!
Got around to adjusting my band saw and right when I thought I had her all set up right, I powered her up and the top tire came flying off. The tires were old and splitting. Wonder if the blade was too tight? It was same size blade as yours in video cuz I planned on re-sawing. Anyway more money for new tires. Which ones should I buy?
Bummer. I highly recommend the Blue Max tire from Amazon: amzn.to/2ZjbZxE and I've done a video on the install process, which you can find with a search for "Shopsmith bandsaw tire" here on UA-cam. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings thanks Scott I’ll check it out.
Scott I got two brand new blue kicks! Quick question tho….Does the blade actually rub against the guide blocks? I have them adjusted not touching the blade, just barely
When the saw isn’t cutting you don’t want the blade to rub against the blocks. Some folks use a piece of paper or even a piece of doubled-over Scotch tape as a feeler gauge or spacer.
@@MyGrowthRings just ordered accessory kit for the bandsaw….fence, table extension and circle jig. U have these and do u use and like them?
@@neiljackson1195 I have and use the table, fence and table extension but not the circle cutter. I’m not impressed by it and have other options that work better for me. Let me know what you think of it. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I sure will. it came as a package and I really wanted the fence and table extension
Hey Scott I just replaced the lower and tracking bearings on my bandsaw. I had a question is the tracking noticibly better with the double bearing over the original single bearing?
I don't believe so. The thing that has the biggest effect on auto-tracking is the tilt of the upper wheel.
@@MyGrowthRings Thank you, I was curious because when I looked online there seemed to be several different bearing styles. And thank you for the maintenence video on the bandsaw. I greased up my upper wheel bearings and they are super quiet now. Keep up the great work!
How is the ShopSmith for resawing?
It’ll resaw up to 6” wide and works great with a Timber Wolf blade. I make Shaker Oval Boxes and have resawn thousands of feet of cherry veneer with mine.
The blade does not touch the lower bearing. How do I fix that?
Never mind! I figured it out.
Stuck in front of the guide blocks?
Just add v1.5 to the name for the mid-week video.
That would be simple, but it might also be confusing. I think I've got it, though. Scott
How do you adjust the auto track bearing?
The only adjustment is left and right. What adjustment are you looking for?
@@MyGrowthRings in the book it says that the lower guide bearing should about 1/64 from the back of the blade, and the blade should be riding on the auto track bearing. On my band saw, the blade does not ride on the auto track bearing and the lower guide bearing is about 3/8 away from my 1/4 inch blade. The upper guide bearing and cool blocks seem to be in the correct position. I have tried torquing the upper wheel as you and the book have instructed and that has help a little in moving the blade further back on the guides, but not enough (in my estimation) to meet the book requirements. Any ideas?
@@johnmeeks9618 John, If you pull all of the blocks away from the blade and tension the blade, where is it running on the upper wheel? Does the back of the blade run to the back of the upper wheel and dies the back of the blade run against any of the bearings? It the blade is running against the upper bearing the upper guide post is too far forward.
With the blade tension according to the indicator, the blade runs on the back of the upper wheel, does not touch any of the guide bearings. I have placed a washer behind the lower bearing block to move it closer to the blade, and it is now about 1/64 away from the guide bearing. The blade at the upper guide is about 3/8 away from the bearing. On the other side, the blade is about 1/32 away from the auto track bearing and when running, will not ride in the grove on the bearing if they were in contact. I can move the auto track bearing to line it back up, but can’t move it forward to contact the blade. Again I torqued the upper wheel and it has helped, but I am leery of trying to torque it much more than I have.
@@johnmeeks9618 Ok, if it isn't hitting any of the bearings then the upper wheel either needs to be tilted back further or there's a chance it's on backwards.
“But Wait, There’s More!” ???
Seems like a natural title.
I’ve got another question, are the upper and lower bearings supposed to be bigger than the individual bearings that make up the set of bearings at the opposite side of the saw. The reason I ask is I ordered new bearings from SS. They sent 4 of the same size and the upper and lower are to narrow, the blade falls to the left of the bearings. The old upper and lower are almost twice as wide as the new bearings. Thank you
You are correct that the upper and lower bearings were always wider than the two that are used on the left Auto-Track set-up. I don't know if Shopsmith made a change or not, but I would get them on the phone and find out because that's an unacceptable condition. Let me know what you learn. Scott
These AI generated voices are so so at best
Not AI, but just poorly recorded.