Had to come back to this one since I used my 6 inch carbide dado stack today for the first time since this video release. I was one of those confused people who had been running the 6 inch dado stack at the Manga Dado speed. Because I had watched this video I knew to run it a the Table Saw speed settings. WOW! What a difference. Better cuts and felt so much smoother and more confident while making the cuts.
I have a Magna dado. In the original box. A reference board with measurements for each letter was really helpful! Currently using a carbide stack dado set.
Love all your videos. I no matter how hard I try I always learn something. Thanks for reminding us to always do the 5 point check every time we change blades. I think it is as important as counting your fingers every time you enter the shop. I picked up the habit from a Doug Reid video.
Wait, you are trying hard to not learn from me? I always liked the line at the start of the Fat Albert show when Bill Cosby said “And if you aren’t carful, you might just learn something.”
My first Shopsmith was a Mark II. It came with a Magna Dado, and no guards at all. That blade scared the #3!! out of me. The whole machine would shake when I ran it. I finally got a stacked dado, and gave the Magna Dado to the guy who bought the Mark II when I bought a 510. I’ve been running a stack set since then. Good video!
My ShopSmith came with a 10 tooth craftsman wobble dado. I tried it once and promptly threw it in the trash. The Magna looks like a much better setup. Thanks for the video, great job!
I have a craftsman that is a wobble except it is made with two blades. Other than not a perfect flat bottom it is pretty easy to use and does a great job.
at 21:40 .. your jacket sleeve, close to the dado blade, scared the fertilizer out of me (having just recently 'touch' the spinning saw blade with a pinky-tip) .. But, I always love your videos .. and always learn something new. Thanks!
Hey Jeff. You aren’t the first to make that comment. It isn’t as close as it appears but from your vantage point I don’t blade you for mentioning it. Thanks, and I hope your pinky gets to felling better soon. Scott
@@toddharshbarger8616 Actually, steel blades are sharper than carbide-tipped blades, but not for long. The Magna Dado sin;t carbide-tipped but the 6" Shopsmith dado blade is. Scott
I have a craftsman dado crazier than that. It is two blades next to each other. If you spin the two blades in opposing direction the spread apart on one side. It too does not make a flat bottom and it is a bit scary too. It is 8 inch. The other day I seen CMT makes a new dado stack and it is made so the chipers lock in place and can not slip. I guess on the stacked blades if the chipper slips the teeth collide and the bits of carbide can go flying at you. So in europe they have been banned already but this new CMT set doe not have that issue as they lock together and can not slip. 731 woodworks get a great job reviewing it.
Once again, thank you for all the great info !! I purchased a Magna wobble blade a while back and just tested it out the other day !! YES, it scares me but only a FOOL would not choose to be cautious ! I didn't know a #1 square drive screwdriver would help me out ! I bought my Magna Dado in a Shop Smith box with the tiny little screw driver that comes with it !! LOL !! Kinda useless but does work !! BTW, I bought the same set of Allen wrenches I see you using ! Great minds think alike !! LOL !! You're a pleasure to learn from Scott !! Must be that NC boy charm !! LOL !! Take care and keep these GREAT videos coming !!
@@MyGrowthRings, I'm originally from VT, moved to CT, then to VA and finally here in NC !! As my waitress told me a while back, a Yankee just comes for vacations, a DAMNED YANKEE moves here to stay !! She's a real Doll !!
I have a 6" SS stacked dado set that came with my 1984 Mark V, it work fair, so I got the new model CMT SS 6" Stacked Dado set works great on the M V. very smooth cuts. I bought a new old stock Craftsman wobble dado fo my RAS, but never used it, wasn't sure about it, but I think I might try it on the Mark V. Thanks Scott for the great video.
@@MyGrowthRings I have the excalibur dado, came with the SS, don't like it at all. To darn hard to dial in exact cuts. Freud stack sets are the way to go. Curt
I have the 6” dado stack and love it. Could you give a brief explanation of why you might cut a rabbit using a sacrificial fence and burying the dado set into it versus using the fence and cutting the rabbit on the opposite of the wood? I hope that made sense lol.
Xclnt! Thank you. I almost bought a ?Magna? Dado back in the early 80s. With my new Mk7 I bought the CMT dado stack. I’ve got plans for it, and I’ll let you know how it goes.
Was the Magna Dado made available again when John Folkerth put the Mark V back into production in the early 1970's? Or did they switch to offering the Vermont American wobble dado from the start? They also had the Shopsmith 6" stacked non-carbide tipped dado set before switching to what they offer now which is CMT's 6" stacked dado set.
Huh. I don't know how many times I've looked at the term "Magna Dado" on the speed dial and never stopped to wonder what it referred to. I have a "drunken saw blade" (never heard that term - love it!) from Sears that I bought back in the 80's and have used ever since. Though I have no doubt that stacked dado blades are much better, the wobble blade had always served my needs perfectly well and it cuts pretty flat and clean for me. I guess I have a high tolerance for "adjust-measure-adjust-measure".
You and me both! That said, I do like a stacked set because you can pretty much trust that when you put 5/8" worth of blades together that they are going to add up to 5/8". Scott
I can see where that wobble dado blade will give a smooth bottomed dado which is excellent. I have both a Shopsmith and a B & D 6" dado stack. Disappointed in both as to the smoothness of the bottom of the cut. As you said, if it is buried it's fine, but on a rabbet joint and looking at the ends it can be ugly as sin. Guessing a much higher priced dado set would be a lot better or not? Just finished some small boxes for game board pieces and had to recut the rabbets with a router to get the corners tight and square. Each blade is flat but appears they are not all the same diameter by just a little bit creating the uneven bottom.
Yes, I’ll use the 6” carbide stacked set in the follow-up and you’ll see the difference. for the price of a couple router bits you can get a fine set. Scott
Great information as always. Could you spend some time on the Shopsmith Miter Pro. I don't find much information about using it. I also signed up tonight for the MyGrowthRings Underwriter. Thanks again. Gordon
Scott, great videos. I learn something new each time. I have the older 6” stacked dado from SS and it does not leave at flat bottom particularly in plywood and I stopped using it. Good to know there are better stacked dado sets available. I thought the SS was limited to 6”. Can you explain the benefits/drawbacks of 6” vs. 8”? Thanks
Sure thing. Yeah, good carbide stacks can leave an excellent bottom. That said, avoid cheap sets like the Harbor Freight. I had one to play with and it was just sad. Scott
The insert being too low or high on my Mark V 500 and now my 520 have always bothered me. I hate having the wood drop as it transitions from table to insert almost as much as having it interfered with. Leaving the screws loose seemed Mickey Mouse. On the 500, to get it truly level, the screw head would actually protrude above the insert by a few thousands of an inch. And, the insert would vibrate. Being a safety and quality nerd... that drove me nuts! My solution was to cut washers out of some plastic pattern stock and shim it level. That still works for me. Now about those dado blades... My first venture into them was the Craftsman 6” wobble blade. It was made by Vermont American. I mounted it on my Craftsman 9” direct drive table saw. There was no speed adjustment and the insert had an opening the size of a Flathead Catfish mouth! Being young, inexperienced and feeling bullet proof... I decided my first cut should be full width (at 13/16”) and half the depth of the board (at 3/8”). After all it was a brand new blade and should cut wood with resistance akin to room temperature butter. Right? Then, to ratchet the challenge up just a bit... I decided to do a test cut first using a 3 1/2” X 6” long piece of red oak scrap. Oh, did I mention that the Craftsman safety kit came with a plastic push stick but no hold down? At any rate, I set up the fence and laid the board on the table. Using my left hand to control the feed with my push stick, I started sliding it along the fence. Realizing that the blade was spinning toward the stock, it occurred to me that the piece of wood was probably going to be flung back in my face... now, an experienced or wise man would have reconsidered his options at this point. I was neither... instead, I used the most available tool that I had to hold the board down. I mean after all, I’ve always been very good at math. A 3/8” deep cut in a 3/4” thick blade leaves a 3/8” margin of safety between it and the top surface. Right? As I was driving myself to the Emergency Room it occurred to me... 1. Removing 13/16” X 3/8” of red oak in a single pass creates a thousand tons of resistance. 2. Cutting big dados in tiny wood requires considerable pre-thought about guidance and containment. 3. If they can replace 1/2 if my middle right hand fingernail, I’ll never use my hands for a hold down or push block again! 4. I hope the blood doesn’t rust my shiny new dado blade before I get home to clean it up!
I have the Magna Precision Dado and used it a couple of times, worked fine. A very clever and interesting piece of engineer, as are a lot of Shopsmith tools. But, I promptly bought the Oshlun 6 inch dado stack (works really well for me) because I found the wobble very unnerving. Logically, I don't see any increase risk in using the wobble vs. stack, so probably an irrational fear. But, I'm in the garage to relax, not scare the crap out of myself.
I’m a router nut, as witnessed by my 15+routers, but I’ll take a dado stack on a table saw over a router for dadoing any day. Just wait until you see the follow-up. Scott
I had a radial arm saw that used a wobble blade for its rabbets. I never liked the radial arm saw because I couldn't keep it in exact alignment. I liked the wobble blade even less...too scary. I have a 6" stacked dado set that I've used on the SS and feel much more comfortable with. Very flat bottom and cuts the wood like butter. Been very happy with that set up. Always wondered why the dial said "magna dado"; great to know that bit of information. Super video. I would also like to know more about the molding cutter head. My Dad had one but I use the shaper and router for all my moldings. Am I missing out by not having a molder cutter head?
Hey Anne. No, I don’t think you are missing anything. IMO moulding is cheap and most of the profiles that are available have been overused by sloppy practitioners. I’ll be happy to show it, but I don’t really ever use it for moulding. It does make a mean raised panel, though. Scott
So interesting. Thanks Scott. I frequently adjust table height to fine tune depth of cut while using extension tables. What's everyone do to most efficiently adjust those extensions to keep everything flat? I've been disconnecting the extension tube from main table, adjusting main table height, then laying a straight edge across the main table and extensions, adjust extensions to be level with main, and reconnect the tubes. My method always seems awkward and inefficient.
That’s just about the only way of doing it. If I’m using the extension table to support the fence it’s far more critical, but otherwise it doesn’t bother me if it’s a little bit low as it’s there just to support after the cut. I also rarely use the extension tubes unless I need a floating table or if I’m applying horizontal pressure against the fence, as when horizontal boring or disc sanding the end of a board. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. Just looking for a more efficient way. I'm sometimes using a large crosscut sled and then this becomes even more tedious.
@@hfmann1 I have a stop collar on the support table that is locked at the proper hight for crosscutting 1" stock, so I actually adjust the main table to it with a straight edge.
While it's true that no single cutter wobbles back and forth the blade as a whole does. It occurred to me that even for a stacked dado set but especially a wobble set, using a kerf maker like jig would make for a quick to setup.The dado blade(s) need to be set to "just over half width" and then make two passes using the kerf maker to adjust stock positioning. It also has the advantage of lowering the load on the tool since you less material is removed per pass.
That is correct. And considering that most of the sheet goods that we have available to us aren't produced in Imperial dimensions, most American dado sets will require some fiddling that the kerf maker eliminates. Scott
Scott that Magna Dado is just what I've looking for, I need to make some small dados for some small crosses and the regular dado set will not go that small. I was looking at the ones you listed on eBay and I was wanting to know if the "Vintage Henry Disston & Sons Magna Precision Dado" will work in the Shopsmith or only the one that says "Shopsmith Magna Dado" will work on my Mark V? Great info on that blade.
I recently acquired an old 1956 Magna 700 series table saw...still works and is as accurate as can be. I'm having an issue being able to get the arbor off to switch out the blade. Is there any advice you can give me or something I need to purchase to be able to accomplish this? Thanks for any advice you can give me.
I also have one of the saws and it’s pretty slick. I would suggest removing the setscrew from the arbor and spray WD-40 or a similar penetrating lubricant and make a wooden wedge that you can drive between the arbor and the shaft. It’ll likely be slow going but once it moves an eighth of an inch you’ll find it will come right off. Once you have it off I would suggest polishing the shaft with a little scotch Brite and do the same inside the arbor.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. That was my next though but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something first. I'll spray it down with some rust break or wd40 and hope to get it lose. I was making a crosscut sled for it last night and noticed that I'd get a high pitched squeak out of it...thinking it may be a good idea to just put some new belts on it. Any thoughts on that?
Scott, thanks for the video, I wanted a dado so bad with I first got me shopsmith back in the 80's. I notice that you had a tool shelf on the system you were using in the video. Did you ever publish anything or plan's on how to build one yourself?
The shelf that is on this Mark V is a poorly built and designed shelf made by the guy who sold me the machine. I have a design in mind but haven’t found the time to build it yet. Scott
Given the arc-shaped profile that the tips of the wobble blade trace out, does it also result in a very slightly taper the width of the groove as seen from bottom to top?
You’d think so, but no. Each tooth makes a circle around the arbor, so the cut is a straight 90 degree cut. It’s one of those things that defies logic, like pineapple on the pizza.
@@bmedicky I'm a bit Roberton fan from way back. Down here they started catching on in the late 1970's when a catalog company names McFeeleys started to push them. Only took them 60 years! Did you know that Henry Ford used over 700 Robertson drive screws on the Model T until around 1909 when he and Mr. Robertson had a falling out and he encouraged his friend W.G. Allen to knock Robertson off with what became the Allen drive? Yeah, I'm a hardware nerd. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Most folks up here have heard the story about Robertson proudly sticking to his guns when he couldn't strike a good deal with Ford to use his screws. Anyhow, they are the everyday screw around here, for all intents and purposes. Certain specialty screws like GRK construction screws are Torx, and hinges sometimes come prepackaged with Phillips screws, but otherwise it's always Robertson. Slot-head are impossible to find unless you shop at a specialty fastener store, and even then not all of them will carry slot heads.
If your set is the one with the black and clear plastic case, it’s just doing the best it can. It is ok for some tasks, but it won’t leave a clean cut in cross grain dados. Scott
@@oldmangravely6554 I had one too and never could get decent results from it, even after having it resharpened. I have been very pleased with the carbide set that I use, but depending upon how often you need to cut a dado or groove you can always make multiple passes with a saw blade. Scott
I'll install a set during the mid-week follow-up. What I can tell you is buy a modern set with an anti-kickback design and unless you need the depth of cut I would go with a 6" set. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have Freud finger joint and regular dado stack sets. Both are carbide but how can I tell if they're anti kickback type ? Doesn't anywhere on the packages. Both work fantastic. Thanks for producing and sharing great videos. Curt.
I’m curious. While you produce excellent videos containing great tips, there is one technique I don’t understand. And, that is using the miter gauge alone to support wood going into a blade. Why wouldn’t you add a support board (like a 3/4” x 3” x 18” piece of wood or plywood) attached to the miter gauge to give added control and support to the piece you are cutting or putting a dado cut in?
@@chrismorgan3486 Chris, that’s a great question. I often do use a backing board, but when producing videos when I don’t have a project in production I may not.
I agree, Shopsmith just ran a sale stating that they are not supporting the molder heads cutters any more. I picked up a few, since they won't be available any more. When would use the shaper blades? When would you go with a router.
@@daveschmitt6369 Shapers are used for shaping edges, in a similar way that some router bits are used. Molders or moulders as they were originally called are for the face of stock. A sharp router bit on a router will produce an excellent edge, much like a shaper cutter on a shaper will cut, but a shaper is much quieter and they tend to be rock solid. Now, a shaper cutter on a Mark V or a router but powered on a Mark V is a different story because of the slower speeds. We’ll have to do a video or two on this in the future. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings looking forward to it. I have a speed increase that I use for 1/4 in shaft routers. I've tried some larger bits for cabinet making, and they didn't see that stable. I've used the shaper a few times but who know if I was using it appropriately. My experience is that if you take small depth cuts, all three can produce a nice result. If on the other hand I take too deep of a cut, well lets say its time for a barbecue.
They have them on Amazon: amzn.to/3ub6Pl0 but at that price you are almost half way to a whole new dado set that comes with the holder: amzn.to/3dk4BIX Scott
I have a Powerpro and do a lot of none thru cut re-sawing. By how much can I safely reduce the blade spend to get more tork as an option to reducing the depth of cut and not trip my circuit breaker?
You really shouldn't be tripping breakers with the PowerPro. Are you running on an extension cord or searching a circuit with another tool or DC? You can safely run it in "dado" speed, or roughly 3450RPMs, but again, I wouldn't expect you to have to do that with a PowerPro. Scott
I was experimenting with my mark V I put a saw blade on the machine with the saw guards b but the table tilt hinges interfere with the lower guard. Died the 500 use different guards than the 510 etc?
Hey Jeffery, Oh yes, the guards changed tremendously when the 510 was developed. The 510 guard can't be used on the 500 model or any of the earlier tools. In order to add that much "stuff" Shopsmith had to redesign the carriage and spread the posts on the table. It's pretty much an all-or-nothing upgrade. Scott
@@jeffreylopez5403 The model should be called out on the round name plate on the left side of the headstock. It’s a chrome plated circle around the high speed (jointer) shaft.
@@jeffreylopez5403 Sorry, I misunderstood. No markings, really, but the 510/520 lower guard has a single machine screw that tightens it into the quill and the right hand side of it can be moved close to the blade and tightened in place with two knurled knobs. There were several variants of the 500 guard, but I believe that all of them have the right side open, which is covered by a plastic part that attached to the table’s tie bar. They also attach to the quill with a clamp that uses two machine screws. Hope this helps. Scott
You mention the stop collar but didn’t really describe how you are using it. Do you use it solely for supporting the table and/or is it used to help keep the same depth when adjusting the dado?
Sorry, I was having camera issues again and missed that detail. I do it to maintain an accurate depth and as a safety precaution. Once the table is adjusted to the final depth I lock the stop collar down against the carriage. I have a friend who lost parts of a couple fingers in front of a class at Shopsmith because his table dropped while he was demonstrating the use of the moulder. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have a SS adjustable stop collar made to dial in dado depth of cut. The thing is solid as a rock, haven't used it but a few times. Does this type of stop collar act as the same way as the one you're using? Curt.
@@MyGrowthRings interesting I always was taught there was so much danger in loose sleeve getting caught in saw blades. After watching video in think I realized the error of my thinking. Oh well better safe than sorry. Great videos by the way!
I believe for only one of two reasons; It’s what they own or it’s all they can afford. I agree that a dado stack give vastly superior résolus with much less trial and error. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. Yeah, I am just surprised to still see them. To me a carbide stack seems like such an overwhelmingly better tool, but are there things that a wobble dado excel at over a carbide stack? In other words is there a legitimate reason to buy one if budget is not a factor?
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You are like a game genie for shopsmiths.
Imagine being the lawyers for a company that invented "a wobbly sawblade".
Thanks for the video and the cabinet plans im setting up dado
Had to come back to this one since I used my 6 inch carbide dado stack today for the first time since this video release. I was one of those confused people who had been running the 6 inch dado stack at the Manga Dado speed.
Because I had watched this video I knew to run it a the Table Saw speed settings. WOW! What a difference. Better cuts and felt so much smoother and more confident while making the cuts.
Awesome! I just bought yet another dado blade!
Thanks
I have a Magna dado. In the original box. A reference board with measurements for each letter was really helpful! Currently using a carbide stack dado set.
It really was advanced in its time, but it's hard to beat a carbide stack. Scott
Thanks for all your hard work to produce these videos! I am now an official member of your channel!
Awesome! Thanks for the support, Charlie. Scott
Love all your videos. I no matter how hard I try I always learn something. Thanks for reminding us to always do the 5 point check every time we change blades. I think it is as important as counting your fingers every time you enter the shop. I picked up the habit from a Doug Reid video.
Wait, you are trying hard to not learn from me? I always liked the line at the start of the Fat Albert show when Bill Cosby said “And if you aren’t carful, you might just learn something.”
I massively appreciate your videos. I am saving up to buy a mark 7 and love seeing that there are instruction videos out for them
That’s great. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
The history is very interesting. That really adds to your account. All was most excellent. 👍👍
Thanks John. It's the dad in me that can't just get to the point!
@@MyGrowthRings
That’s the really interesting part - the historical context. Keep it going!
My first Shopsmith was a Mark II. It came with a Magna Dado, and no guards at all. That blade scared the #3!! out of me. The whole machine would shake when I ran it. I finally got a stacked dado, and gave the Magna Dado to the guy who bought the Mark II when I bought a 510. I’ve been running a stack set since then. Good video!
Thanks Stew. I have a Mark 2 but nobody gave me a Magna Dado! Sounds like you've been making good choices. Scott
My ShopSmith came with a 10 tooth craftsman wobble dado. I tried it once and promptly threw it in the trash. The Magna looks like a much better setup. Thanks for the video, great job!
Thanks Jon.
I have a craftsman that is a wobble except it is made with two blades. Other than not a perfect flat bottom it is pretty easy to use and does a great job.
at 21:40 .. your jacket sleeve, close to the dado blade, scared the fertilizer out of me (having just recently 'touch' the spinning saw blade with a pinky-tip) .. But, I always love your videos .. and always learn something new. Thanks!
Hey Jeff. You aren’t the first to make that comment. It isn’t as close as it appears but from your vantage point I don’t blade you for mentioning it. Thanks, and I hope your pinky gets to felling better soon. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings "I don’t blade you for mentioning it." ...
I wish the ShopSmith was as considerate. It 'bladed' me without hesitation. ha!
@@Jeff1Jeff2Jeff3Jeff It does have a nasty bite.
I got an old dado set that includes several different size chippers and washers
Is it a black case with a clear top?
@@MyGrowthRings yes. Ive found an adapter that seems to fit but ive never used it. Presumably safe
@@toddharshbarger8616 Yes, they should be. They don’t leave a very nice bottom but they do make clean cross-grain dados. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I don’t think it has carbide tips as the magma dado. Hence more chip out and not as clean of a finish?
@@toddharshbarger8616 Actually, steel blades are sharper than carbide-tipped blades, but not for long. The Magna Dado sin;t carbide-tipped but the 6" Shopsmith dado blade is. Scott
I have a craftsman dado crazier than that. It is two blades next to each other. If you spin the two blades in opposing direction the spread apart on one side. It too does not make a flat bottom and it is a bit scary too. It is 8 inch.
The other day I seen CMT makes a new dado stack and it is made so the chipers lock in place and can not slip. I guess on the stacked blades if the chipper slips the teeth collide and the bits of carbide can go flying at you. So in europe they have been banned already but this new CMT set doe not have that issue as they lock together and can not slip. 731 woodworks get a great job reviewing it.
Is it this one? ua-cam.com/video/UHKbuu4rtjM/v-deo.htmlsi=nx1IoekDPz0PKw7_. I’ve also seen the CMT and it’s a great idea.
Once again, thank you for all the great info !! I purchased a Magna wobble blade a while back and just tested it out the other day !! YES, it scares me but only a FOOL would not choose to be cautious ! I didn't know a #1 square drive screwdriver would help me out ! I bought my Magna Dado in a Shop Smith box with the tiny little screw driver that comes with it !! LOL !! Kinda useless but does work !! BTW, I bought the same set of Allen wrenches I see you using ! Great minds think alike !! LOL !! You're a pleasure to learn from Scott !! Must be that NC boy charm !! LOL !! Take care and keep these GREAT videos coming !!
Thanks for your kind words. The locals would remind you that I’m a damn Yankee, but we feel at home here. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings, I'm originally from VT, moved to CT, then to VA and finally here in NC !! As my waitress told me a while back, a Yankee just comes for vacations, a DAMNED YANKEE moves here to stay !! She's a real Doll !!
@@arthilliker3721 Yep, I’ve been told that too.
I have a 6" SS stacked dado set that came with my 1984 Mark V, it work fair, so I got the new model CMT SS 6" Stacked Dado set works great on the M V. very smooth cuts. I bought a new old stock Craftsman wobble dado fo my RAS, but never used it, wasn't sure about it, but I think I might try it on the Mark V. Thanks Scott for the great video.
CMT makes several sweet dado sets. Is your Craftsman a single blade dado? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings yes it looks like your single blade dado.
@@allenriff9242 Got ya. They made a very interesting dual blade wobble dado called the Excalibur that I’ve always wanted to try. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have the excalibur dado, came with the SS, don't like it at all. To darn hard to dial in exact cuts. Freud stack sets are the way to go. Curt
I have the 6” dado stack and love it. Could you give a brief explanation of why you might cut a rabbit using a sacrificial fence and burying the dado set into it versus using the fence and cutting the rabbit on the opposite of the wood? I hope that made sense lol.
Yes, that makes sense, and yes, I plan on covering that in “Stumped”. Scott
InstaBlaster.
Xclnt! Thank you. I almost bought a ?Magna? Dado back in the early 80s.
With my new Mk7 I bought the CMT dado stack. I’ve got plans for it, and I’ll let you know how it goes.
The CMT is a wonderful set! Good choice. Scott
Was the Magna Dado made available again when John Folkerth put the Mark V back into production in the early 1970's? Or did they switch to offering the Vermont American wobble dado from the start? They also had the Shopsmith 6" stacked non-carbide tipped dado set before switching to what they offer now which is CMT's 6" stacked dado set.
Good question. No, Shopsmith Inc. Never brought the Magna Dado back from the dead. Shame, really.
Huh. I don't know how many times I've looked at the term "Magna Dado" on the speed dial and never stopped to wonder what it referred to. I have a "drunken saw blade" (never heard that term - love it!) from Sears that I bought back in the 80's and have used ever since. Though I have no doubt that stacked dado blades are much better, the wobble blade had always served my needs perfectly well and it cuts pretty flat and clean for me. I guess I have a high tolerance for "adjust-measure-adjust-measure".
You and me both! That said, I do like a stacked set because you can pretty much trust that when you put 5/8" worth of blades together that they are going to add up to 5/8". Scott
I can see where that wobble dado blade will give a smooth bottomed dado which is excellent. I have both a Shopsmith and a B & D 6" dado stack. Disappointed in both as to the smoothness of the bottom of the cut. As you said, if it is buried it's fine, but on a rabbet joint and looking at the ends it can be ugly as sin. Guessing a much higher priced dado set would be a lot better or not? Just finished some small boxes for game board pieces and had to recut the rabbets with a router to get the corners tight and square. Each blade is flat but appears they are not all the same diameter by just a little bit creating the uneven bottom.
Yes, I’ll use the 6” carbide stacked set in the follow-up and you’ll see the difference. for the price of a couple router bits you can get a fine set. Scott
Great information as always. Could you spend some time on the Shopsmith Miter Pro. I don't find much information about using it. I also signed up tonight for the MyGrowthRings Underwriter. Thanks again. Gordon
Thank you so much, Gordon! yes, I have a Miter Pro somewhere and they work very well. I’ll see if I can track it down. Scott
Scott, great videos. I learn something new each time. I have the older 6” stacked dado from SS and it does not leave at flat bottom particularly in plywood and I stopped using it. Good to know there are better stacked dado sets available. I thought the SS was limited to 6”. Can you explain the benefits/drawbacks of 6” vs. 8”? Thanks
Sure thing. Yeah, good carbide stacks can leave an excellent bottom. That said, avoid cheap sets like the Harbor Freight. I had one to play with and it was just sad. Scott
The insert being too low or high on my Mark V 500 and now my 520 have always bothered me. I hate having the wood drop as it transitions from table to insert almost as much as having it interfered with.
Leaving the screws loose seemed Mickey Mouse. On the 500, to get it truly level, the screw head would actually protrude above the insert by a few thousands of an inch. And, the insert would vibrate. Being a safety and quality nerd... that drove me nuts!
My solution was to cut washers out of some plastic pattern stock and shim it level. That still works for me.
Now about those dado blades... My first venture into them was the Craftsman 6” wobble blade. It was made by Vermont American.
I mounted it on my Craftsman 9” direct drive table saw. There was no speed adjustment and the insert had an opening the size of a Flathead Catfish mouth!
Being young, inexperienced and feeling bullet proof... I decided my first cut should be full width (at 13/16”) and half the depth of the board (at 3/8”). After all it was a brand new blade and should cut wood with resistance akin to room temperature butter. Right?
Then, to ratchet the challenge up just a bit... I decided to do a test cut first using a 3 1/2” X 6” long piece of red oak scrap. Oh, did I mention that the Craftsman safety kit came with a plastic push stick but no hold down?
At any rate, I set up the fence and laid the board on the table. Using my left hand to control the feed with my push stick, I started sliding it along the fence. Realizing that the blade was spinning toward the stock, it occurred to me that the piece of wood was probably going to be flung back in my face... now, an experienced or wise man would have reconsidered his options at this point.
I was neither... instead, I used the most available tool that I had to hold the board down. I mean after all, I’ve always been very good at math. A 3/8” deep cut in a 3/4” thick blade leaves a 3/8” margin of safety between it and the top surface. Right?
As I was driving myself to the Emergency Room it occurred to me...
1. Removing 13/16” X 3/8” of red oak in a single pass creates a thousand tons of resistance.
2. Cutting big dados in tiny wood requires considerable pre-thought about guidance and containment.
3. If they can replace 1/2 if my middle right hand fingernail, I’ll never use my hands for a hold down or push block again!
4. I hope the blood doesn’t rust my shiny new dado blade before I get home to clean it up!
Thanks, William. It really is amazing how many lessons we can learn from one little accident! Very good points. Scott
I have the Magna Precision Dado and used it a couple of times, worked fine. A very clever and interesting piece of engineer, as are a lot of Shopsmith tools. But, I promptly bought the Oshlun 6 inch dado stack (works really well for me) because I found the wobble very unnerving. Logically, I don't see any increase risk in using the wobble vs. stack, so probably an irrational fear. But, I'm in the garage to relax, not scare the crap out of myself.
I think most fear is rational. It's hard to beat a stacked set, for sure. Scott
I love my Shopsmith buuuuuut...I think for dados I will stick to a router (power or hand). That looks a bit to dicey for me :-D
I’m a router nut, as witnessed by my 15+routers, but I’ll take a dado stack on a table saw over a router for dadoing any day. Just wait until you see the follow-up. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I would think that a router would be preferred for dadoing so I can't wait to see your argument for using the table saw. Thanks!
@@charliebirdwell2258 Challenge accepted!
I had a radial arm saw that used a wobble blade for its rabbets. I never liked the radial arm saw because I couldn't keep it in exact alignment. I liked the wobble blade even less...too scary. I have a 6" stacked dado set that I've used on the SS and feel much more comfortable with. Very flat bottom and cuts the wood like butter. Been very happy with that set up. Always wondered why the dial said "magna dado"; great to know that bit of information. Super video. I would also like to know more about the molding cutter head. My Dad had one but I use the shaper and router for all my moldings. Am I missing out by not having a molder cutter head?
Hey Anne. No, I don’t think you are missing anything. IMO moulding is cheap and most of the profiles that are available have been overused by sloppy practitioners. I’ll be happy to show it, but I don’t really ever use it for moulding. It does make a mean raised panel, though. Scott
So interesting. Thanks Scott. I frequently adjust table height to fine tune depth of cut while using extension tables. What's everyone do to most efficiently adjust those extensions to keep everything flat? I've been disconnecting the extension tube from main table, adjusting main table height, then laying a straight edge across the main table and extensions, adjust extensions to be level with main, and reconnect the tubes. My method always seems awkward and inefficient.
That’s just about the only way of doing it. If I’m using the extension table to support the fence it’s far more critical, but otherwise it doesn’t bother me if it’s a little bit low as it’s there just to support after the cut. I also rarely use the extension tubes unless I need a floating table or if I’m applying horizontal pressure against the fence, as when horizontal boring or disc sanding the end of a board. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. Just looking for a more efficient way. I'm sometimes using a large crosscut sled and then this becomes even more tedious.
@@hfmann1 I have a stop collar on the support table that is locked at the proper hight for crosscutting 1" stock, so I actually adjust the main table to it with a straight edge.
While it's true that no single cutter wobbles back and forth the blade as a whole does.
It occurred to me that even for a stacked dado set but especially a wobble set, using a kerf maker like jig would make for a quick to setup.The dado blade(s) need to be set to "just over half width" and then make two passes using the kerf maker to adjust stock positioning. It also has the advantage of lowering the load on the tool since you less material is removed per pass.
That is correct. And considering that most of the sheet goods that we have available to us aren't produced in Imperial dimensions, most American dado sets will require some fiddling that the kerf maker eliminates. Scott
Scott that Magna Dado is just what I've looking for, I need to make some small dados for some small crosses and the regular dado set will not go that small. I was looking at the ones you listed on eBay and I was wanting to know if the "Vintage Henry Disston & Sons Magna Precision Dado" will work in the Shopsmith or only the one that says "Shopsmith Magna Dado" will work on my Mark V? Great info on that blade.
The Shopsmith Magna Dado was manufactured for Magna by Disston, so you are on the right track!
I recently acquired an old 1956 Magna 700 series table saw...still works and is as accurate as can be. I'm having an issue being able to get the arbor off to switch out the blade. Is there any advice you can give me or something I need to purchase to be able to accomplish this? Thanks for any advice you can give me.
I also have one of the saws and it’s pretty slick. I would suggest removing the setscrew from the arbor and spray WD-40 or a similar penetrating lubricant and make a wooden wedge that you can drive between the arbor and the shaft. It’ll likely be slow going but once it moves an eighth of an inch you’ll find it will come right off. Once you have it off I would suggest polishing the shaft with a little scotch Brite and do the same inside the arbor.
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks. That was my next though but wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something first. I'll spray it down with some rust break or wd40 and hope to get it lose. I was making a crosscut sled for it last night and noticed that I'd get a high pitched squeak out of it...thinking it may be a good idea to just put some new belts on it. Any thoughts on that?
@@jonasmorehouse738 It’s quite likely that you’ll need to replace a bearing or two, but that’s an easy task.
@@MyGrowthRings thanks for the advice. I was able to get the arbor off. Now to find the 5/8 arbor nut and space so I can use a normal blades on it.
Scott, thanks for the video, I wanted a dado so bad with I first got me shopsmith back in the 80's. I notice that you had a tool shelf on the system you were using in the video. Did you ever publish anything or plan's on how to build one yourself?
The shelf that is on this Mark V is a poorly built and designed shelf made by the guy who sold me the machine. I have a design in mind but haven’t found the time to build it yet. Scott
Did Shop Smith ever make a molding head for various profiles.
Yes, they sure did. In fact, I believe I just heard that they’ve discontinued it after 60 years! Scott
Given the arc-shaped profile that the tips of the wobble blade trace out, does it also result in a very slightly taper the width of the groove as seen from bottom to top?
You’d think so, but no. Each tooth makes a circle around the arbor, so the cut is a straight 90 degree cut. It’s one of those things that defies logic, like pineapple on the pizza.
BTW, nice use of the Robertson drive logo!
@@MyGrowthRings Only fitting for someone from Canada! You can't easily get anything other than Robertson... they're as common as dirt up here.
@@bmedicky I'm a bit Roberton fan from way back. Down here they started catching on in the late 1970's when a catalog company names McFeeleys started to push them. Only took them 60 years! Did you know that Henry Ford used over 700 Robertson drive screws on the Model T until around 1909 when he and Mr. Robertson had a falling out and he encouraged his friend W.G. Allen to knock Robertson off with what became the Allen drive? Yeah, I'm a hardware nerd. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Most folks up here have heard the story about Robertson proudly sticking to his guns when he couldn't strike a good deal with Ford to use his screws. Anyhow, they are the everyday screw around here, for all intents and purposes. Certain specialty screws like GRK construction screws are Torx, and hinges sometimes come prepackaged with Phillips screws, but otherwise it's always Robertson. Slot-head are impossible to find unless you shop at a specialty fastener store, and even then not all of them will carry slot heads.
FYI. Colorado does not charge tax on services.
Good to know. I'll remember that the next time I visit my parents. Scott
Do you the shopsmith dado set mine is from the 80’s it always leaves a rough bottom. Do you have any tricks to help
If your set is the one with the black and clear plastic case, it’s just doing the best it can. It is ok for some tasks, but it won’t leave a clean cut in cross grain dados. Scott
Yes it the one in black case thanks
@@oldmangravely6554 I had one too and never could get decent results from it, even after having it resharpened. I have been very pleased with the carbide set that I use, but depending upon how often you need to cut a dado or groove you can always make multiple passes with a saw blade. Scott
Mostly interested in using modern dado blades on my (new to me) SS. Any pointers regarding setup or use with those?
I'll install a set during the mid-week follow-up. What I can tell you is buy a modern set with an anti-kickback design and unless you need the depth of cut I would go with a 6" set. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I have Freud finger joint and regular dado stack sets. Both are carbide but how can I tell if they're anti kickback type ? Doesn't anywhere on the packages. Both work fantastic. Thanks for producing and sharing great videos. Curt.
I’m curious. While you produce excellent videos containing great tips, there is one technique I don’t understand. And, that is using the miter gauge alone to support wood going into a blade. Why wouldn’t you add a support board (like a 3/4” x 3” x 18” piece of wood or plywood) attached to the miter gauge to give added control and support to the piece you are cutting or putting a dado cut in?
@@chrismorgan3486 Chris, that’s a great question. I often do use a backing board, but when producing videos when I don’t have a project in production I may not.
Could you show use what come with the dado set, like the one I have came all together with no box all the part in one piece. Thanks
Are you talking about a stackable set?
@@MyGrowthRings yes please
The only reason I am asking is I have two used one and do not knew if all the parts are their
would like to see a vid on molding head cutter
Danny, I’m sure we can fit that in. Scott
I agree, Shopsmith just ran a sale stating that they are not supporting the molder heads cutters any more. I picked up a few, since they won't be available any more. When would use the shaper blades? When would you go with a router.
@@daveschmitt6369 Shapers are used for shaping edges, in a similar way that some router bits are used. Molders or moulders as they were originally called are for the face of stock. A sharp router bit on a router will produce an excellent edge, much like a shaper cutter on a shaper will cut, but a shaper is much quieter and they tend to be rock solid. Now, a shaper cutter on a Mark V or a router but powered on a Mark V is a different story because of the slower speeds. We’ll have to do a video or two on this in the future. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings looking forward to it. I have a speed increase that I use for 1/4 in shaft routers. I've tried some larger bits for cabinet making, and they didn't see that stable. I've used the shaper a few times but who know if I was using it appropriately. My experience is that if you take small depth cuts, all three can produce a nice result. If on the other hand I take too deep of a cut, well lets say its time for a barbecue.
Scott do you need the special ss dado arbor on a 520 using a craftsman wobble blade. Thanks
Yes, you need a dado arbor to mount any dado blade or set on the Mark V. Scott
Thanks I guess I will be back shopping soon
@@robertaiken8576 They are on eBay all the time. Check out the links in the video description.
Scott, do you know Where I can buy them plastic cases for a dado stack?
They have them on Amazon: amzn.to/3ub6Pl0 but at that price you are almost half way to a whole new dado set that comes with the holder: amzn.to/3dk4BIX Scott
I have a Powerpro and do a lot of none thru cut re-sawing. By how much can I safely reduce the blade spend to get more tork as an option to reducing the depth of cut and not trip my circuit breaker?
You really shouldn't be tripping breakers with the PowerPro. Are you running on an extension cord or searching a circuit with another tool or DC? You can safely run it in "dado" speed, or roughly 3450RPMs, but again, I wouldn't expect you to have to do that with a PowerPro. Scott
I was experimenting with my mark V I put a saw blade on the machine with the saw guards b but the table tilt hinges interfere with the lower guard. Died the 500 use different guards than the 510 etc?
Hey Jeffery, Oh yes, the guards changed tremendously when the 510 was developed. The 510 guard can't be used on the 500 model or any of the earlier tools. In order to add that much "stuff" Shopsmith had to redesign the carriage and spread the posts on the table. It's pretty much an all-or-nothing upgrade. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings are there markings or anything that would confirm what I have?
@@jeffreylopez5403 The model should be called out on the round name plate on the left side of the headstock. It’s a chrome plated circle around the high speed (jointer) shaft.
@@MyGrowthRings sorry. I meant in the guard. Is there a way to distinguish which guard I have.
@@jeffreylopez5403 Sorry, I misunderstood. No markings, really, but the 510/520 lower guard has a single machine screw that tightens it into the quill and the right hand side of it can be moved close to the blade and tightened in place with two knurled knobs. There were several variants of the 500 guard, but I believe that all of them have the right side open, which is covered by a plastic part that attached to the table’s tie bar. They also attach to the quill with a clamp that uses two machine screws. Hope this helps. Scott
You mention the stop collar but didn’t really describe how you are using it. Do you use it solely for supporting the table and/or is it used to help keep the same depth when adjusting the dado?
Sorry, I was having camera issues again and missed that detail. I do it to maintain an accurate depth and as a safety precaution. Once the table is adjusted to the final depth I lock the stop collar down against the carriage. I have a friend who lost parts of a couple fingers in front of a class at Shopsmith because his table dropped while he was demonstrating the use of the moulder. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings 😳
@@MyGrowthRings I have a SS adjustable stop collar made to dial in dado depth of cut. The thing is solid as a rock, haven't used it but a few times. Does this type of stop collar act as the same way as the one you're using? Curt.
@@curttundra It sure does. I would use it every time I dado.
Watch you last cut see how close your sleeve comes to the blade. Roll up your sleeves or be prepared to have them grabbed by the blade.
From your vantage point it does appear that way. Not so from mine, but that is for your concern. Scott
BTW, have you ever seen this video? ua-cam.com/video/UeQzIzj3j_Q/v-deo.html
@@MyGrowthRings interesting video. I'm not going to dangle my sleeves to see if I can get a different result. lol
@@daveschmitt6369 Good call!
@@MyGrowthRings interesting I always was taught there was so much danger in loose sleeve getting caught in saw blades. After watching video in think I realized the error of my thinking. Oh well better safe than sorry. Great videos by the way!
I received a package yesterday (or the day before?) and I’d like to messenger you about it.
You can email me at ScottMarkwood(at)gmail(dot)com
@@MyGrowthRings I’ll do that sir in a bit and thank you.
No email yet. Please note that you have to replace the (at) with "@" and the (dot) with a period.
A carbide stack is so much easier to setup and use. Also cleaner cut. Why would anyone still use a wobble dado?
I believe for only one of two reasons; It’s what they own or it’s all they can afford. I agree that a dado stack give vastly superior résolus with much less trial and error. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks Scott. Yeah, I am just surprised to still see them. To me a carbide stack seems like such an overwhelmingly better tool, but are there things that a wobble dado excel at over a carbide stack? In other words is there a legitimate reason to buy one if budget is not a factor?