Thanks for assuaging years of guilt about my table saw re-sawing. I’ve hidden the fact from everyone including my wife. I’m through re-sawing late at night and in private and am now proud of my alternative saw style. Bandsaws are for making cute deer and rough-cut-curved and roundly-shaped things. If you want it straight table saws are great! Good video as always.
Nice "coming out" @garyfairbrother5532! Love your comment. This is my first viewing of Newton's channel and I liked it very much. NEWTON: I especially liked when you talked about blade drift and replied to the multiple of comments which basically state that drift does not happen. There you said "Well, ... It happened to me." Personally, I think that the kind of wood(wood species) and type of cut matters. Lately on the bandsaw (same as yours) I was ripping a freshly felled piece of poplar (riff-cutting, more precisely) and my blade drifted badly. I was sawing a piece about 5" by 8" by 20" on the 5" face and had serious binding of the blade towards the fence. But when I quarter-sawed the same piece of poplar (on the 8" face) there was no drift at all!!! @garyfairbrother5532: Question: Are you really the five thousand five hundred and thirty second garyfairbrother? LOL
Right on! I also don't have a band saw, though I would like one. Now I can resaw and use my Japanese pull saw to cut the strip left from the table saw.
Thanks heaps. I used to always resaw on the the table saw but have been battling the bandsaw for several years. You’ve reminded me why I did it on the table saw. I will now go out and save myself several hours of misery in the shop to resaw veneer for a couple of dozen kitchen door and drawer panels.
Loved your vid. taking down boards on the jointer and thicknesser is slow and LOUD!!! I take down my 25mm boards on the table saw ( usually down to 18mm ), a quick sand with 80 grit with my orbital sander and all is good. My wife uses the offcut and I am happy with the time saved. regards, Allyn Hansen New Zealand.
I wondered if anyone else used a thin kerf circle saw blade before going to the bandsaw to finish the cut. Best method that I have found too after 40 years of horseing around with it.
I can finally come out of the closet and admit I use the thin kerf blade on my table saw to resaw then to the band saw. Thank you. You have given my life new meaning! :)
I have a Laguna 14 inch bandsaw that has a foot brake. Absolutely brilliant. I wish there was an equivalent brake on all my machines. It also has exceptional dust collection. I'll take my bandsaw with a king resaw blade over an exposed table saw blade any day. It really doesn't take much effort to thickness away the tiny ridges.
@@blemtaters Do you think a Laguna 18BX would be enough for 8" hardwoods with a resaw king blade (or any other) blade? Need abundant clean and thin resaws and not sure whether to get a bandsaw for them or keep going with a table saw with red blades.
@@kay6736 It certainly will meet the task. More power from there will get you more speed but you've got enough power to do it at a reasonable pace with the 18BX, or the Harvey C14.
On point. I do not have a band saw. Score them on the table saw and then use a carefully sharpened 26" ripping hand saw to split the board. No drift. A few strokes with a hand plane followed by a scraper of needed and I'm good to go. Save on the space, expense and sawdust of a band saw. Just as fast for my needs.
I have done it a couple of times on the table saw, using the method you demonstrated, but I just don’t like putting a board on edge and pushing it through the blade. Once past the feather board there’s nothing to push it towards the fence and if (when) tension is released it can get wonky really fast. I have an old underpowered Delta clone bandsaw with a riser block and I use the Woodslicer bandsaw blade for all of my re-saw operations. There’s more than one way to skin a cat and whichever way works best for each individual is the right way.
If you're not cutting all the way through you can put a feather board halfway up the board at the blade. This will hold the board in place and not pinch the kerf. I saw him cutting that small piece on the table saw just holding it with the push stick and thinking "that's really going to hurt when it kicks back and hits him".
I resaw at both the cabinet saw and bandsaw. It depends. One thing’s for sure. The book match is better at the bandsaw. A well tuned bandsaw with a 3 to 4 teeth per inch hook blade will leave the surface fairly smooth. Good video.
This video makes me feel better. Whenever I just use the band saw it is rough, slow, and I get drift no matter how much time I take to set it up. I do the method you suggested. Start with table saw and move to band saw. I am just a hobbyist woodworker and I thought I was doing something wrong.
Hey, @georgestgoerge5110: Yes, you can touch the blade. The point you are trying to make is that you shouldn't touch it. (Hope you did not hurt yourself too badly.)
At 77 I'm basically a novice at woodworking for retirement which I've just done. Having done a little re-saw on Purple Heart I can greatly appreciate your table saw method. Thanks, I'll give that a try.
I prefer to resaaw the same way you do. But I add one safety consideration. (Always thinking about safety as I teach Woodworking in a school.). As I near the end of my cut on the Band Saw, I use a scrap wood block to push the piece the last two or three inches, rather than reach around and pull from the back side of the blade. Every saw Knick on the scrap block is a reminder that they kept their fingers safe.
95% consistent with my own experience and it's good to hear some validation. The difference is I use a full-sized thin kerf rip blade (3/32) which is more 'general purpose' than a circular saw blade i.e. doesn't need to be changed out. Also my old bandsaw was kept for use with the curve-cutting smaller blade as that sort of stuff tends to be smaller anyway. My Resaw King (and drift fence) on the Laguna handles smaller/easier resaw tasks OK, but for bigger more exacting projects, the table saw method is definitely preferred, more consistent, and less risk.
I've been resawing with just the band saw for years even though Ive seen this method before. I think I'm going to come back and try it with a table saw for some of the benefits you mentioned. One that I didn't hear you mention is that I sometimes get thicker boards open up or close down if there are any internal stresses. Knowing which way it's going to go before I get to the band saw will help me prepare better either by having a wedge on hand if it's going to close down or biasing my cut if it's going to open it up
I've been resawing this way for years and it does work well. The only downside is that it wastes more wood than resawing on the bandsaw. For me, the savings in time typically required to make and clean up a bandsaw cut make using a table saw worth the added waste, with one exception. When working with an extremely valuable wood, such as a board from "The Tree" or with other unique figure, the waste must be minimized. When working with such woods, I'll spend the extra time carefully tuning the bandsaw with a dedicated resaw blade and making the required slow cut. Your advice to consider using a thin circular saw blade is interesting; I'll try that next time I resaw. Thanks for the thoughtful, well-made video.
Wanting to be a "Real Woodworker" I went the route of milling air dried wood. More time consuming but lower initial costs. Even went to chainsaw milling. Watched UA-camrs resaw and followed the common consensus. Bandsaw for long resaw cuts, especially when the cut is almost the total hieght of my ability to cut. I've had all of the problems. sometimes drift other times not. The table saw with a thin kerf blade is efficient . Your video is spot on. Murphy Tested and Recommended. Would add that cutting rough sawn lumber to approximate finished sizes improves my efficiency, while Murphy my mentor does not. Thanks for posting this.
Great Video, Like you, I have been doing this for a very long time. When I first started woodworking, I had a decent table saw with adequate power and a cheap bandsaw which didn't have much power and terrible guide bearings. I like re-sewing material to get grain matching, so by default, I discovered this method. My equipment has improved but my methods have not changed. Thanks for sharing this method with other woodworkers.
I do exactly the same procedure on my DeWalt radial arm saw except I put the head in horizontal mode and lay the work piece flat on the top, like you I leave a center tab to connect the two pieces for safety.
after decades of using the tabe saw, fnally purchaced a band saw to resaw and your video is very helpfull - best of both world doing resawing - your way
Thank you so much for that advice, I have a Laguna saw and a Laguna blade and I have tried till I am blue in the face to get no saw drift. I don't know whether it's the blade or what but I have watched so many UA-cam videos who all say something slightly different and I think that yours has hit the nail on the head.From now on I will use a thin kerf blade and finish it off with the bandsaw.
With a band saw able to tension a blade well, there are 2 Lennox carbide tipped blades that will outperform your technique. The fastest and most cost effective for resawing is indeed too wide for curved work. That would be the Woodmaster ct. It has about a .05" kerf. So if you're sawing 1/16" veneers from a 4/4 board you get up to 8 slices, versus up to 5 with your method. if your machine is adjusted properly and blade sharp, drift isn't an issue. Nor is speed. A band saw with this blade would be faster than your method. Next choice is Lennox trimaster, 1/2" 3TPI. More expensive than Woodmaster Ct, with slightly larger kerf (.057"), and somewhat slower feed. But narrow enough to cut many curves, so you could leave it on. This is the blade I use for my one and only band saw --mostly resawing, some curves. Either of these carbide tipped bands will cost several times more than steel "resaw" blades--but will dramatically outperform them, and outlast them by 15-25X--maybe more. They cut so straight you can do much joinery work with them, another huge plus (tenon cheeks, 1/2 laps....). A 144'" 3 tpi Trimaster has 432 carbide tips for about $175. A good 10" circular blade has 40 tips for $100 or so. The tips do the cutting. Do the math.... Consider resawing on the band saw with a power feeder. There's only one good choice for a small band saw, and you've probably never seen it. Google "Little Proteus power feeder". Maybe i am a little biased (I designed and make and sell the Little Proteus)---but a power feeder on the band saw solves the brain drift issue, and gives you perfect feed speed for hours at a time. It takes almost all the stress out of resawing. But you're right,--if you don't use a good resaw blade (carbide tipped or Laguna's version) your method makes sense!
What would you suggest is the single best bandsaw blade for efficiently, precisely and easily slicing veneers? Seems like you're not even suggesting the resaw king, which is what I've been looking at mostly so far. Also, do you think a Laguna 18BX would be enough or would I be better advised getting something different? Going to need a lot of veneers.
Great video! I don't have my bandsaw anymore and for the 1st time since geyting rid of it I need to do some resawing. I was planning on using my unisaw with an auxilary fence to resaw the boards and was nervous about the safety aspect. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. I totally plan on leaving ~1/2" in the middle and just using a handsaw to get the rest of the way through. Thanks again.
My first experience with resawing was with 8inch Jarrah, an Australian hardwood. After killing 2 blades, I turned to UA-cam for an answer and found this method. I resawing softer woods on the bandsaw but any Aussie hardwoods are done on the tablesaw
Amen, agree with your take 110%. Hobby WW but I’ve been doing this 60 years and still have all of my fingers 😅. Much simpler and no blade drift using Table Saw and clean up on band saw and surface planer. GREAT TIP, KEEP UP YOUR GOOD WORK! 😊
My 9” Band Saw is very SAFE! Unlike the Table Saw. I have a Sled for the Table Saw but I still prefer the Band Saw..it has less Sawdust, at least more controllable than the Table Saw…so, the Band Saw is my Go-to Saw.
I use your system as well and I tend to use the bandsaw just the same. Your general comments are great and I say sort of the same things to myself daily. I might recommend watching Seths' Stockroom Supply Bandsaw demo. They are in Ontario Canada. I come away impressed by this.
New subscriber here. I was convinced that I’d like your channel when I heard you suggest trying something new to reduce frustration doing it the way “you’re supposed to” (I’d often thought to try resawing on the table saw, but figured this was “wrong”); and your desire to distinguish between fact & opinion. I’ve got some resawing to do today & will try your method. Thanks for sharing your method.
I have tried all the things, I still get drift, and it is frustrating! Thank you for the Circular saw blase on a table saw, GENIUS!! I don't do a lot of would working , but I am always cutting knife scale out of call blanks I get 2-3 times the handle material for the same price as buying book match scale sets. Thank you.
the band saw your using says its 12 or 14 inch cut but its a little under powered. laguna 220 volt will roller fence and power feeder will allow you to cut hundred and hundred of board feet per day and has a auto stop. would you buy a black and decker table saw to make stuff or a high end table saw. same thing..
I definitely agree with you about bandsaw vs. tablesaw. A big drawback for me is pushing my bandsaw's motor too hard. The tablesaw is my preferred way.
I have the privilege of owning a RIKON 10-340 for resawing, but it too has blade wander even with a 3/4" blade. Most time I do what his guys does and remove the bulk of the material with the table saw and wiz thru with the band saw to remove the rest. But I did learn to use a circular sawblade, although that leaves a bigger bridging piece, to reduce the kerf of the saw blade,
destroyed a 3/4 piece of walnut trying to get 2 pieces as close to 3/8 as i could - wound up with some skinny 1/4 because i didn't know the proper way to resaw, until now! Thanks for the insight!!!
You got it right! I am retired so I look on my computer and see how other people do certain jobs. I found out that some people handle the facts mighty reckless.I also see that some people have a better idea than I had.
Excellent video! I've done it both ways but not owning a bandsaw and having to use friends, I'm switching to your table saw method. I built your fence last night, ordered a Suizan Ryoba saw, and presto change-o, I'm all set.
I like your method a lot. My big 17” bandsaw is great for rough resawing on logs and really big boards, but for finer work, not so much (for all the reasons you cover here)
Thanks for making that video after i added to the many people who asked about it. You definately made many valid points - so ill give it a go next time.
Dear newton In case you ever wonder if you’re reaching someone let me tell you, I’m indebted to you for this video. You ever come thru portsmouth NH dinner is on me. I started my woodworking hobby in 2020 building a guitar 100% from scratch with a master luthier. I learned how to ruin wood with a table saw, destroy wood with a router, and waste wood with a bandsaw. When I built my undersized wood shop and started building basic furniture cutting boards knife racks and boxes I bought a Rikon tabletop bandsaw. Read everything I could to learn about it. Played with many blades. Watched dozens of videos by snodgrass, estlea, stumpy nubs and others about how to eliminate drift. Wrote to snodgrass. Spent hundreds on blades. Setup my saw dozens of times. Got a jet 14” from an excellent woodworker down the street who was retiring. Now I could resaw cherry apple and pear logs from my own property. And both saws, every blade from 1/8” to 3/4”; brand new, used, overpriced, underpriced, cheap, ridiculously expensive, domestic, Chinese, every setup, new blocks, tensioned properly, over tensioned under tensioned, I always had drift. It could be as much as 1/4” on a 12” piece of stock. Always. Bought the wood slicer from highland woodworking. Bought the Carter 3/8” that snodgrass says is the only blade you’ll ever need. (I exaggerate). And they all always drifted. For two years. Now the most recent timber wolf 3/4” with a ridiculously painstaking setup seems to have worked. But when I saw your video I was finally vindicated. Thank you. THANK YOU!!! I got drift…and you get drift. Making a bottom for a box last sunday I used your method, planed down that center piece and goddamn. Perfect.
Very informative thank you. Might be worth checking maximum rpm of circular saw blade vs max rpm of same blade size on table saw for safety reasons. That said, it's always possible to make a table saw by bolting a circular saw under a table (loads of videos on youtube). Thanks again; you've probably saved me hours of re-finishing (I have over 1000 small pieces to re-saw :)
I'm anxious to try this idea. A couple points... I would think that it would be difficult for the band saw blade to drift out of the TS cuts, another reason to use this method. I would like to know the best options for 7 1/4" blades for this method.
One consideration are us folks that don’t have a super powerful cabinet saw and can take such a large pass on one piece of wood. Also, regardless of table saw or bandsaw, your going to have to use the planer to get two pieces of wood the same thickness, so my bandsaw would be faster than taking multiple passes with a contractor/jobsite table saw
Thanks for the video. Pros and cons are useful to determine what methods I would use. If I were doing production work a lot of what you listed would need to be considered. Since I am doing mostly personal projects, I weigh the personal satisfaction of the process. I really like that you encouraged us to use the methods and tools that we find satisfying, especially for someone like me who is into perfection and doing things the "right" way. I'm going to kick back, relax and enjoy myself in the future.
That's the way I learned how to do it. I took woodworking courses at Cerritos College and one of my instructors Tony Fortner taught me that exact method. Use the table saw to get most of the way through then finish on the band saw. It has always worked for me.
I really like you're approach to re-sawing. Sadly I don't own a planner and I'm not skilled at hand planning. In this case do you have any tips or tricks for making the final separation cut on a band saw? I currently use a 9" lower-end band saw, but it works just fine for most of my projects. I would also need to follow-up with my orbital sander or belt sander depending on how clean a cut I can achieve on the bandsaw. Anyway, thanks for the great content. :)
I have the same bandsaw as you. Maybe the dame tablesaw if you have the 3hp PCS. I have had mixed results with using the bandsaw to resaw, I usually use the tablesaw method myself. So I would agree with you 100% on thos one. 1 also hate changing blades on the bandsaw. I usually keep a 3/16 4tpi skip tooth on mine or a 3/8.
Just got through resawing an 8.25” wide piece of cherry on my table saw and I can tell that I made so many mistakes: I don’t have a tall enough fence to properly rest the wood against, my feather board wasn’t tight enough against the wood (how tight should it be??) and it’s way too short, the board was way too long for my compact saw (> 48”) and I didn’t have a good way to cut the piece in the middle so I just planed the whole thing down, wasting literally half the board and winding up with a cupped wall ornament of get-there-itis. That’s enough mistakes for today, gotta leave some for tomorrow. Thanks for the video, hopefully I can improve my methods.
Great analysis all around. I have been thinking a bandsaw would be ideal for re-sawing some thick hardwood bowl blanks but I didn't know about drift. What do you think of drift bars like on Grizzy G0513Z? I imagine the hardwood would be a bit more challenging to re-saw on a bandsaw. I did a couple on a table saw alone and got uneven step-like surfaces so I guess I should make a jig. I have no planer so I want to make the cuts as flat as possible. This is a very helpful video to help me decide and also not commit to either. Thanks!
1000% agree. I wish I didn’t sell my table saw. Although I would hardly call my old Shopsmith a table saw:-0 it seemed dangerous, HOWEVER I love this idea of yours!!! I have the Laguna re-saw blade on a 14" Rikon and still get some drift because of the hardwoods I typically use. I need to purchase a table saw and use this technoque. Thanks SO MICH FOR SHARING
Great video. I also prefer to at least start a re-saw on the table saw, also with a taller fence addition. However, if the board is not too long I'll do at least one low pass on the ends. That makes it so easy to locate the bandsaw blade at the start. It also means the cut is finished before my fingers get near the bandsaw blade.
Great video! I’m convinced to give it a try ! There’s another reason to resaw, and it’s my primary use…not book match, but it’s cousin boxes w grain flowing around all 4 corners.
I enjoyed your video. In particular, I appreciate that you are simply trying to get a message across - I do these things because I find them to work well for me. I also appreciate that you encourage everyone to find the joy in their hobby. And … I watched the entire video before commenting. ;-)
Your suggestion to make the cuts on the table saw first does work and I have used this method. However, I prefer to just change my band saw blade, set up a guide and resaw as much as needed. If I lost concentration while running a power tool it time to shut it all down and take a break.
What a great article but it destroyed my excuse to buy a bandsaw 🙂 But serious, I will give this a try. Sorry for if I missed this in your video, but I have a DeWalt tablesaw and mainly use 2 blades. A 24 or a 40 teeth. How many teeth would be better/safer etc to use?
I understand your pro/con list mostly, but do you not cut oversized and sand to smooth when resawing on the bandsaw? If I were aiming for a 1/8” board for a project, I do not expect it will be smooth enough for most operations so when sanding you will go under that. Is this not a concern for your projects?
Great video. I am not a huge fan of resawing on the bandsaw, and find it easier and faster on the table saw. I would also argue that having a table saw is more common than a bandsaw. What I personally like to do it at my blade height barely under half of the width of my board. Enough that it still holds together, but also that the sliver holding the two pieces together can simply be broken by gently tilting the sides back and forth. When done like that, clean up is minimal and can even be done with a small plane or a scraper!
I resaw on the table saw but suffer from that awful drift. Where’d you get that double stacked feather board? That thing may solve my problem. Thanks ✌🏽🙏🏽
This is good. I just picked up a bandsaw and a nice 3 tpi blade specifically to resaw. I'm easily loosing 1/8 by the time I'm done planing anyway because I'm still learning how to get a straight cut with tbe BS, may as well let the tablesaw take that out for me. I bet I actually get a better yield.
thank you will try this i get crazy drift on practice pieces just one question what blade on table saw should i use for best result? and how thin could i go?
Ditto to all your observations. All three votes are in- this is the preferred method. I take a little longer then you- I inch up the table saw blade and make several passes. Doing so, I find it to be safer. When the blade is cutting 3 inches of wood that is a lot of energy (force) being applied to the wood and more force equals less control and more risk.
@@NewtonMakesAhh. OK. So, it's a 7 1/4". I was looking and looking for 10" ones and the results were hit or miss. Gotta say, you learn a lot about the different sizes of obscure stuff when you go looking for it. Thanks!
On this topic. I am considering getting a new band's hall. Cancel debating between getting a Laguna, 14 inch band all or or Spring. A little bit more and getting grizzly 19 inch band saw. They both have about the same Resaw but the 19 inch saw can cut more larger wood Horizontal And has a 3 horsepower motor instead of a 2 and a 1/2 horsepower. It doesn't look like I can get the Laguna blade for it. So I'm looking for the opinion. Does that blade really make that big of a difference
I like this guy. Lots of good points. I always have problems setting up my bandsaw to for resawing boards. The circular saw blade tip was great. Is that blade thinner than a thin kerf blade?
First I have to say there are lots of ways of doing almost everything in woodworking. What works for one guy doesn’t work for another. So when someone says “ your doing it wrong” or the “ right way” to do something I usually dismiss them immediately. You are not that guy. You understand that it works for you, and make logical explanations for why it works for you. Your final statement is probably the only true statement about “ you’re doing it wrong” If you only try one way you will never know if it’s the best for you. You have a new subscriber.
Blade drift. Yup, I screwed up a box because of that. Thought to be smart and cut the lid on the bandsaw. Tried to save it and put it o the table saw. Got frustrated, threw a hammer through the lid.
![⚡[DIY] Making a jig for sawing logs /If you do some woodworking, you should also cut logs /HOMEMADE✅](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/H2QM5yj8oGM/mqdefault.jpg)
I love your last thought. Ultimately, unless we do this for a living, and the vast majority of us don't, this is about having fun!
Thanks for assuaging years of guilt about my table saw re-sawing. I’ve hidden the fact from everyone including my wife. I’m through re-sawing late at night and in private and am now proud of my alternative saw style. Bandsaws are for making cute deer and rough-cut-curved and roundly-shaped things. If you want it straight table saws are great! Good video as always.
Start by being blunt with your friends and family. "Hi, I'm a table saw resawer." It's what I did!
Nice "coming out" @garyfairbrother5532! Love your comment.
This is my first viewing of Newton's channel and I liked it very much.
NEWTON: I especially liked when you talked about blade drift and replied to the multiple of comments which basically state that drift does not happen. There you said "Well, ... It happened to me." Personally, I think that the kind of wood(wood species) and type of cut matters. Lately on the bandsaw (same as yours) I was ripping a freshly felled piece of poplar (riff-cutting, more precisely) and my blade drifted badly. I was sawing a piece about 5" by 8" by 20" on the 5" face and had serious binding of the blade towards the fence. But when I quarter-sawed the same piece of poplar (on the 8" face) there was no drift at all!!!
@garyfairbrother5532: Question: Are you really the five thousand five hundred and thirty second garyfairbrother? LOL
Sorry: I meant "flat cutting" not riff-cutting.
After 45 years as a professional woodworker, I couldn’t agree with you more. It’s great to come across a guy who is spot on with everything he says.
Bullshit
Bullshit
I'll definitely give that a try. I've wasted so much wood cleaning up my bad bandsaw cuts.
Right on! I also don't have a band saw, though I would like one. Now I can resaw and use my Japanese pull saw to cut the strip left from the table saw.
An excellent choice
You did a really nice job of anticipating and addressing all the arguments against your approach. You convinced me to give table saw re-sawing a try.
Resawing on a tablesaw is a waste of wood.
This UA-camr has a lite weight bandsaw. He wants the success of a Bigger better saw.
He’s new.
Why does it matter what others think enjoy the process.
Thanks heaps. I used to always resaw on the the table saw but have been battling the bandsaw for several years. You’ve reminded me why I did it on the table saw. I will now go out and save myself several hours of misery in the shop to resaw veneer for a couple of dozen kitchen door and drawer panels.
Loved your vid. taking down boards on the jointer and thicknesser is slow and LOUD!!! I take down my 25mm boards on the table saw ( usually down to 18mm ), a quick sand with 80 grit with my orbital sander and all is good. My wife uses the offcut and I am happy with the time saved.
regards,
Allyn Hansen
New Zealand.
I wondered if anyone else used a thin kerf circle saw blade before going to the bandsaw to finish the cut. Best method that I have found too after 40 years of horseing around with it.
I never thought about putting a circular saw blade on my table saw. Food for thought. Thanks for the video.
I can finally come out of the closet and admit I use the thin kerf blade on my table saw to resaw then to the band saw. Thank you. You have given my life new meaning! :)
I saw you do this a while back and I started resawing this way and love it. Thank you for the video.
I have a Laguna 14 inch bandsaw that has a foot brake. Absolutely brilliant. I wish there was an equivalent brake on all my machines. It also has exceptional dust collection. I'll take my bandsaw with a king resaw blade over an exposed table saw blade any day. It really doesn't take much effort to thickness away the tiny ridges.
I think OP's problem is that he's trying to resaw 8 and 10 inch hardwood on a 1 1/2 (rated) HP rikon bandsaw.
@@blemtaters True, you gotta use what you got.
@@blemtaters Do you think a Laguna 18BX would be enough for 8" hardwoods with a resaw king blade (or any other) blade? Need abundant clean and thin resaws and not sure whether to get a bandsaw for them or keep going with a table saw with red blades.
@@kay6736 It certainly will meet the task. More power from there will get you more speed but you've got enough power to do it at a reasonable pace with the 18BX, or the Harvey C14.
@@blemtaters Thanks for the response.
Thanks so much for taking the time to talk about your craft
A very unique way of doing resaw. I am going to give it a try. Recently bought a 14 inch bandsaw, but like the way you presented it.
I now feel better about using the table saw 2 resaw! 🎄
On point. I do not have a band saw. Score them on the table saw and then use a carefully sharpened 26" ripping hand saw to split the board. No drift.
A few strokes with a hand plane followed by a scraper of needed and I'm good to go. Save on the space, expense and sawdust of a band saw. Just as fast for my needs.
I have done it a couple of times on the table saw, using the method you demonstrated, but I just don’t like putting a board on edge and pushing it through the blade. Once past the feather board there’s nothing to push it towards the fence and if (when) tension is released it can get wonky really fast.
I have an old underpowered Delta clone bandsaw with a riser block and I use the Woodslicer bandsaw blade for all of my re-saw operations.
There’s more than one way to skin a cat and whichever way works best for each individual is the right way.
If you're not cutting all the way through you can put a feather board halfway up the board at the blade. This will hold the board in place and not pinch the kerf.
I saw him cutting that small piece on the table saw just holding it with the push stick and thinking "that's really going to hurt when it kicks back and hits him".
I resaw at both the cabinet saw and bandsaw. It depends. One thing’s for sure. The book match is better at the bandsaw. A well tuned bandsaw with a 3 to 4 teeth per inch hook blade will leave the surface fairly smooth. Good video.
This video makes me feel better. Whenever I just use the band saw it is rough, slow, and I get drift no matter how much time I take to set it up. I do the method you suggested. Start with table saw and move to band saw. I am just a hobbyist woodworker and I thought I was doing something wrong.
You are spot on about brain drift. It's how I recently learned you can't touch the bandsaw blade.
I have ADD so I know my limitations 🤣
Hey, @georgestgoerge5110: Yes, you can touch the blade. The point you are trying to make is that you shouldn't touch it. (Hope you did not hurt yourself too badly.)
With a decent, properly tuned bandsaw, drift shouldn't be a problem.
@@kwilliams2239 Mwaaa haa haa haa!
@@FirstMM Glad you agree.
At 77 I'm basically a novice at woodworking for retirement which I've just done. Having done a little re-saw on Purple Heart I can greatly appreciate your table saw method. Thanks, I'll give that a try.
i just pushed a chunk of walnut through my bandsaw. almost zero MPH. why did i not do this? i have a double trundel table saw....
I prefer to resaaw the same way you do. But I add one safety consideration. (Always thinking about safety as I teach Woodworking in a school.). As I near the end of my cut on the Band Saw, I use a scrap wood block to push the piece the last two or three inches, rather than reach around and pull from the back side of the blade. Every saw Knick on the scrap block is a reminder that they kept their fingers safe.
Finally I can stop dreading large cuts on the bandsaw! thanks for the helpful tip!
95% consistent with my own experience and it's good to hear some validation. The difference is I use a full-sized thin kerf rip blade (3/32) which is more 'general purpose' than a circular saw blade i.e. doesn't need to be changed out. Also my old bandsaw was kept for use with the curve-cutting smaller blade as that sort of stuff tends to be smaller anyway. My Resaw King (and drift fence) on the Laguna handles smaller/easier resaw tasks OK, but for bigger more exacting projects, the table saw method is definitely preferred, more consistent, and less risk.
Ah of course. Thin kerf rip blade. Not sure why i didnt realize the obvious. Thanks!
I use one of those too. But I recently saw the newest version of my circular saw blade is only 0.054" wide! Wow!
I've been resawing with just the band saw for years even though Ive seen this method before. I think I'm going to come back and try it with a table saw for some of the benefits you mentioned. One that I didn't hear you mention is that I sometimes get thicker boards open up or close down if there are any internal stresses. Knowing which way it's going to go before I get to the band saw will help me prepare better either by having a wedge on hand if it's going to close down or biasing my cut if it's going to open it up
I've been resawing this way for years and it does work well. The only downside is that it wastes more wood than resawing on the bandsaw. For me, the savings in time typically required to make and clean up a bandsaw cut make using a table saw worth the added waste, with one exception. When working with an extremely valuable wood, such as a board from "The Tree" or with other unique figure, the waste must be minimized. When working with such woods, I'll spend the extra time carefully tuning the bandsaw with a dedicated resaw blade and making the required slow cut. Your advice to consider using a thin circular saw blade is interesting; I'll try that next time I resaw.
Thanks for the thoughtful, well-made video.
Wanting to be a "Real Woodworker" I went the route of milling air dried wood. More time consuming but lower initial costs. Even went to chainsaw milling. Watched UA-camrs resaw and followed the common consensus. Bandsaw for long resaw cuts, especially when the cut is almost the total hieght of my ability to cut. I've had all of the problems. sometimes drift other times not. The table saw with a thin kerf blade is efficient . Your video is spot on. Murphy Tested and Recommended. Would add that cutting rough sawn lumber to approximate finished sizes improves my efficiency, while Murphy my mentor does not. Thanks for posting this.
Great Video, Like you, I have been doing this for a very long time. When I first started woodworking, I had a decent table saw with adequate power and a cheap bandsaw which didn't have much power and terrible guide bearings. I like re-sewing material to get grain matching, so by default, I discovered this method. My equipment has improved but my methods have not changed. Thanks for sharing this method with other woodworkers.
I do exactly the same procedure on my DeWalt radial arm saw except I put the head in horizontal mode and lay the work piece flat on the top, like you I leave a center tab to connect the two pieces for safety.
after decades of using the tabe saw, fnally purchaced a band saw to resaw and your video is very helpfull - best of both world doing resawing - your way
Thank you so much for that advice, I have a Laguna saw and a Laguna blade and I have tried till I am blue in the face to get no saw drift. I don't know whether it's the blade or what but I have watched so many UA-cam videos who all say something slightly different and I think that yours has hit the nail on the head.From now on I will use a thin kerf blade and finish it off with the bandsaw.
Great video! I’ve never seen it done that way. I’ve done my fair share of drifting over the last 30 years. Thanks for great tip!
With a band saw able to tension a blade well, there are 2 Lennox carbide tipped blades that will outperform your technique. The fastest and most cost effective for resawing is indeed too wide for curved work. That would be the Woodmaster ct. It has about a .05" kerf. So if you're sawing 1/16" veneers from a 4/4 board you get up to 8 slices, versus up to 5 with your method. if your machine is adjusted properly and blade sharp, drift isn't an issue. Nor is speed. A band saw with this blade would be faster than your method.
Next choice is Lennox trimaster, 1/2" 3TPI. More expensive than Woodmaster Ct, with slightly larger kerf (.057"), and somewhat slower feed. But narrow enough to cut many curves, so you could leave it on. This is the blade I use for my one and only band saw --mostly resawing, some curves.
Either of these carbide tipped bands will cost several times more than steel "resaw" blades--but will dramatically outperform them, and outlast them by 15-25X--maybe more. They cut so straight you can do much joinery work with them, another huge plus (tenon cheeks, 1/2 laps....). A 144'" 3 tpi Trimaster has 432 carbide tips for about $175. A good 10" circular blade has 40 tips for $100 or so. The tips do the cutting. Do the math....
Consider resawing on the band saw with a power feeder. There's only one good choice for a small band saw, and you've probably never seen it. Google "Little Proteus power feeder". Maybe i am a little biased (I designed and make and sell the Little Proteus)---but a power feeder on the band saw solves the brain drift issue, and gives you perfect feed speed for hours at a time. It takes almost all the stress out of resawing.
But you're right,--if you don't use a good resaw blade (carbide tipped or Laguna's version) your method makes sense!
What would you suggest is the single best bandsaw blade for efficiently, precisely and easily slicing veneers?
Seems like you're not even suggesting the resaw king, which is what I've been looking at mostly so far.
Also, do you think a Laguna 18BX would be enough or would I be better advised getting something different? Going to need a lot of veneers.
Every point you made in this video totally makes sense to me. I’m gonna be trying this myself.
Great video! I don't have my bandsaw anymore and for the 1st time since geyting rid of it I need to do some resawing. I was planning on using my unisaw with an auxilary fence to resaw the boards and was nervous about the safety aspect. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. I totally plan on leaving ~1/2" in the middle and just using a handsaw to get the rest of the way through. Thanks again.
My first experience with resawing was with 8inch Jarrah, an Australian hardwood. After killing 2 blades, I turned to UA-cam for an answer and found this method. I resawing softer woods on the bandsaw but any Aussie hardwoods are done on the tablesaw
Amen, agree with your take 110%. Hobby WW but I’ve been doing this 60 years and still have all of my fingers 😅. Much simpler and no blade drift using Table Saw and clean up on band saw and surface planer. GREAT TIP, KEEP UP YOUR GOOD WORK! 😊
My 9” Band Saw is very SAFE! Unlike the Table Saw. I have a Sled for the Table Saw but I still prefer the Band Saw..it has less Sawdust, at least more controllable than the Table Saw…so, the Band Saw is my Go-to Saw.
I have some resawing to do today. I’m going to try the suggestion of changing tablesaw to a thinner blade before bandsaw. Makes good sense. Thanks
I use your system as well and I tend to use the bandsaw just the same. Your general comments are great and I say sort of the same things to myself daily. I might recommend watching Seths' Stockroom Supply Bandsaw demo. They are in Ontario Canada. I come away impressed by this.
New subscriber here. I was convinced that I’d like your channel when I heard you suggest trying something new to reduce frustration doing it the way “you’re supposed to” (I’d often thought to try resawing on the table saw, but figured this was “wrong”); and your desire to distinguish between fact & opinion. I’ve got some resawing to do today & will try your method. Thanks for sharing your method.
Thanks, I'm glad to hear that I'm not the only one that resaws that way.
I have tried all the things, I still get drift, and it is frustrating! Thank you for the Circular saw blase on a table saw, GENIUS!! I don't do a lot of would working , but I am always cutting knife scale out of call blanks I get 2-3 times the handle material for the same price as buying book match scale sets. Thank you.
the band saw your using says its 12 or 14 inch cut but its a little under powered. laguna 220 volt will roller fence and power feeder will allow you to cut hundred and hundred of board feet per day and has a auto stop. would you buy a black and decker table saw to make stuff or a high end table saw. same thing..
Totally agree...it's a bit scratchier on table saw but if your mindful and listen to the machine it's the way to go imo...
I definitely agree with you about bandsaw vs. tablesaw. A big drawback for me is pushing my bandsaw's motor too hard. The tablesaw is my preferred way.
I have the privilege of owning a RIKON 10-340 for resawing, but it too has blade wander even with a 3/4" blade. Most time I do what his guys does and remove the bulk of the material with the table saw and wiz thru with the band saw to remove the rest. But I did learn to use a circular sawblade, although that leaves a bigger bridging piece, to reduce the kerf of the saw blade,
destroyed a 3/4 piece of walnut trying to get 2 pieces as close to 3/8 as i could - wound up with some skinny 1/4 because i didn't know the proper way to resaw, until now! Thanks for the insight!!!
You got it right! I am retired so I look on my computer and see how other people do certain jobs. I found out that some people handle the facts mighty reckless.I also see that some people have a better idea than I had.
Excellent video! I've done it both ways but not owning a bandsaw and having to use friends, I'm switching to your table saw method. I built your fence last night, ordered a Suizan Ryoba saw, and presto change-o, I'm all set.
Great video, nice coverage of the pros and cons. I still like to resaw on a bandsaw. I have to so not an issue. Cheers
I like your method a lot. My big 17” bandsaw is great for rough resawing on logs and really big boards, but for finer work, not so much (for all the reasons you cover here)
Thanks for making that video after i added to the many people who asked about it. You definately made many valid points - so ill give it a go next time.
I get why people ask. If enough are asking then I should take time to answer. 👍
Logical and efficient. Will put this knowledge to good use.
Dear newton
In case you ever wonder if you’re reaching someone let me tell you, I’m indebted to you for this video. You ever come thru portsmouth NH dinner is on me.
I started my woodworking hobby in 2020 building a guitar 100% from scratch with a master luthier. I learned how to ruin wood with a table saw, destroy wood with a router, and waste wood with a bandsaw.
When I built my undersized wood shop and started building basic furniture cutting boards knife racks and boxes I bought a Rikon tabletop bandsaw. Read everything I could to learn about it. Played with many blades. Watched dozens of videos by snodgrass, estlea, stumpy nubs and others about how to eliminate drift. Wrote to snodgrass. Spent hundreds on blades. Setup my saw dozens of times. Got a jet 14” from an excellent woodworker down the street who was retiring. Now I could resaw cherry apple and pear logs from my own property.
And both saws, every blade from 1/8” to 3/4”; brand new, used, overpriced, underpriced, cheap, ridiculously expensive, domestic, Chinese, every setup, new blocks, tensioned properly, over tensioned under tensioned, I always had drift. It could be as much as 1/4” on a 12” piece of stock. Always.
Bought the wood slicer from highland woodworking. Bought the Carter 3/8” that snodgrass says is the only blade you’ll ever need. (I exaggerate).
And they all always drifted. For two years.
Now the most recent timber wolf 3/4” with a ridiculously painstaking setup seems to have worked.
But when I saw your video I was finally vindicated. Thank you. THANK YOU!!! I got drift…and you get drift.
Making a bottom for a box last sunday I used your method, planed down that center piece and goddamn.
Perfect.
Very informative thank you. Might be worth checking maximum rpm of circular saw blade vs max rpm of same blade size on table saw for safety reasons. That said, it's always possible to make a table saw by bolting a circular saw under a table (loads of videos on youtube). Thanks again; you've probably saved me hours of re-finishing (I have over 1000 small pieces to re-saw :)
This is exactly the method i use as well for many of the reasons you mention. At the end of the day, the results are good.
I'm anxious to try this idea. A couple points... I would think that it would be difficult for the band saw blade to drift out of the TS cuts, another reason to use this method. I would like to know the best options for 7 1/4" blades for this method.
Excellent video! I would add that by using a Saw Stop table saw, one is much safer cutting on the tabke saw than the bandsaw. Thanks for posting this!
any safety issues to consider when mounting a very thin kerf blade on the table saw?
One consideration are us folks that don’t have a super powerful cabinet saw and can take such a large pass on one piece of wood. Also, regardless of table saw or bandsaw, your going to have to use the planer to get two pieces of wood the same thickness, so my bandsaw would be faster than taking multiple passes with a contractor/jobsite table saw
Thanks for the video. Pros and cons are useful to determine what methods I would use. If I were doing production work a lot of what you listed would need to be considered. Since I am doing mostly personal projects, I weigh the personal satisfaction of the process. I really like that you encouraged us to use the methods and tools that we find satisfying, especially for someone like me who is into perfection and doing things the "right" way. I'm going to kick back, relax and enjoy myself in the future.
The last tip is the most important! And so often we forget it in our hobbies
Interesting, Billy. I've seen you use this method many times. I figured this is why, but you just validated it.
Bill
That's the way I learned how to do it. I took woodworking courses at Cerritos College and one of my instructors Tony Fortner taught me that exact method. Use the table saw to get most of the way through then finish on the band saw. It has always worked for me.
Thanks for the tip. I am about to do some resawing and this should help.
I really like you're approach to re-sawing. Sadly I don't own a planner and I'm not skilled at hand planning. In this case do you have any tips or tricks for making the final separation cut on a band saw? I currently use a 9" lower-end band saw, but it works just fine for most of my projects. I would also need to follow-up with my orbital sander or belt sander depending on how clean a cut I can achieve on the bandsaw. Anyway, thanks for the great content. :)
I have the same bandsaw as you. Maybe the dame tablesaw if you have the 3hp PCS. I have had mixed results with using the bandsaw to resaw, I usually use the tablesaw method myself. So I would agree with you 100% on thos one. 1 also hate changing blades on the bandsaw. I usually keep a 3/16 4tpi skip tooth on mine or a 3/8.
That's what I keep in mine as well.
Just got through resawing an 8.25” wide piece of cherry on my table saw and I can tell that I made so many mistakes: I don’t have a tall enough fence to properly rest the wood against, my feather board wasn’t tight enough against the wood (how tight should it be??) and it’s way too short, the board was way too long for my compact saw (> 48”) and I didn’t have a good way to cut the piece in the middle so I just planed the whole thing down, wasting literally half the board and winding up with a cupped wall ornament of get-there-itis. That’s enough mistakes for today, gotta leave some for tomorrow. Thanks for the video, hopefully I can improve my methods.
Great analysis all around. I have been thinking a bandsaw would be ideal for re-sawing some thick hardwood bowl blanks but I didn't know about drift. What do you think of drift bars like on Grizzy G0513Z? I imagine the hardwood would be a bit more challenging to re-saw on a bandsaw. I did a couple on a table saw alone and got uneven step-like surfaces so I guess I should make a jig. I have no planer so I want to make the cuts as flat as possible. This is a very helpful video to help me decide and also not commit to either. Thanks!
1000% agree. I wish I didn’t sell my table saw. Although I would hardly call my old Shopsmith a table saw:-0 it seemed dangerous, HOWEVER I love this idea of yours!!! I have the Laguna re-saw blade on a 14" Rikon and still get some drift because of the hardwoods I typically use. I need to purchase a table saw and use this technoque. Thanks SO MICH FOR SHARING
Great video. I also prefer to at least start a re-saw on the table saw, also with a taller fence addition. However, if the board is not too long I'll do at least one low pass on the ends. That makes it so easy to locate the bandsaw blade at the start. It also means the cut is finished before my fingers get near the bandsaw blade.
I learned to resaw watching your videos. Works great. Apart from the wide board too big for my baby bandsaw. That was hard work with the pull saw.
Same
Great video!
I’m convinced to give it a try !
There’s another reason to resaw, and it’s my primary use…not book match, but it’s cousin boxes w grain flowing around all 4 corners.
Absolutely, and I have video on that so I should have mentioned it.
I enjoyed your video. In particular, I appreciate that you are simply trying to get a message across - I do these things because I find them to work well for me. I also appreciate that you encourage everyone to find the joy in their hobby. And … I watched the entire video before commenting. ;-)
Your suggestion to make the cuts on the table saw first does work and I have used this method. However, I prefer to just change my band saw blade, set up a guide and resaw as much as needed.
If I lost concentration while running a power tool it time to shut it all down and take a break.
Excellent video. Also, I'm in love with that double feather board!! Just went and ordered one on Amazon.
Nice vid. I have one heck of a time resawing on a bandsaw.
Great point! I'm going to start using the blended resaw process! Thank you!
Yeah this makes a lot of sense, I’ll be doing this way for now on, thanks for the video
What a great article but it destroyed my excuse to buy a bandsaw 🙂
But serious, I will give this a try. Sorry for if I missed this in your video, but I have a DeWalt tablesaw and mainly use 2 blades. A 24 or a 40 teeth. How many teeth would be better/safer etc to use?
I understand your pro/con list mostly, but do you not cut oversized and sand to smooth when resawing on the bandsaw? If I were aiming for a 1/8” board for a project, I do not expect it will be smooth enough for most operations so when sanding you will go under that. Is this not a concern for your projects?
Great video. I am not a huge fan of resawing on the bandsaw, and find it easier and faster on the table saw. I would also argue that having a table saw is more common than a bandsaw. What I personally like to do it at my blade height barely under half of the width of my board. Enough that it still holds together, but also that the sliver holding the two pieces together can simply be broken by gently tilting the sides back and forth. When done like that, clean up is minimal and can even be done with a small plane or a scraper!
Sometimes I get the cut that close that I'm able to break the two pieces apart. From now on, I'll work at doing it on purpose.
How do you make those vertical clamp boxes 6:29 ? Do you have a video for those?
Yes, I have a video on it: ua-cam.com/video/dVJ9feaGN5U/v-deo.htmlsi=uFYZm5xinRrelGKR
this is 'kin GOLD - your Pro's are my Pro's Bro ❤
I agree 100%. I resales like you do mainly because I feel more comfortable doing it that way. GO BLUE!!!!!
As comfortable as Harbaugh in Walmart khakis.
I resaw on the table saw but suffer from that awful drift. Where’d you get that double stacked feather board? That thing may solve my problem. Thanks ✌🏽🙏🏽
This is good. I just picked up a bandsaw and a nice 3 tpi blade specifically to resaw. I'm easily loosing 1/8 by the time I'm done planing anyway because I'm still learning how to get a straight cut with tbe BS, may as well let the tablesaw take that out for me. I bet I actually get a better yield.
thank you will try this i get crazy drift on practice pieces just one question what blade on table saw should i use for best result? and how thin could i go?
Ditto to all your observations. All three votes are in- this is the preferred method. I take a little longer then you- I inch up the table saw blade and make several passes. Doing so, I find it to be safer. When the blade is cutting 3 inches of wood that is a lot of energy (force) being applied to the wood and more force equals less control and more risk.
At around 8:55, you mentioned that you use a circular saw blade in your table saw. Any recommendations? That's a great idea!
Just don’t do that if you own a SawStop. Also not recommended for thicker woods due to blade drift as hit heats up.
I put a blade in the video description. It's to the one I use.
I don't have a SawStop so I can't speak to that. However, I use a lot of dense exotics with no issue. Your experience my vary.
@@NewtonMakesAhh. OK. So, it's a 7 1/4". I was looking and looking for 10" ones and the results were hit or miss. Gotta say, you learn a lot about the different sizes of obscure stuff when you go looking for it. Thanks!
@@mcseforsale Like the different sizes arbor hole?
On this topic. I am considering getting a new band's hall. Cancel debating between getting a Laguna, 14 inch band all or or Spring. A little bit more and getting grizzly 19 inch band saw.
They both have about the same Resaw but the 19 inch saw can cut more larger wood Horizontal And has a 3 horsepower motor instead of a 2 and a 1/2 horsepower. It doesn't look like I can get the Laguna blade for it. So I'm looking for the opinion. Does that blade really make that big of a difference
I like this guy. Lots of good points. I always have problems setting up my bandsaw to for resawing boards. The circular saw blade tip was great. Is that blade thinner than a thin kerf blade?
First I have to say there are lots of ways of doing almost everything in woodworking. What works for one guy doesn’t work for another. So when someone says “ your doing it wrong” or the “ right way” to do something I usually dismiss them immediately. You are not that guy. You understand that it works for you, and make logical explanations for why it works for you. Your final statement is probably the only true statement about “ you’re doing it wrong” If you only try one way you will never know if it’s the best for you.
You have a new subscriber.
Blade drift. Yup, I screwed up a box because of that. Thought to be smart and cut the lid on the bandsaw. Tried to save it and put it o the table saw. Got frustrated, threw a hammer through the lid.
8:19 😂 the comic type speech bubbles!
There's a whole story you could imply with the lady telling the guy to leave a comment, lol
Love it
When going to bandsaw to finish the cut are you aiming for the center of theTS kerf?