i just love your videos man! i can watch magnum videos all day. I love learning new stuff and i thank you for taking the time to teach people and make these videos. Im thinking of rebuilding a 5.2 and these videos help ALOT!
@@318willrun Awesome....Did you see my $10 fix video? I wanted to see what you thought of the fix. I checked in my last video and nearly a drop of oil out the exhaust compared to before. Sorry i would have messaged you on FB but not sure if you have one
watching your videos make me glad i subscribe tour channel its straight forward and not all the latest gidgets and gadgets to run sone fun times i saw your time that you ran on your latest video wow! the fact that you did it on a budget is even better! kuddos to you !!
On my carbed 5.9 I'm using comp pushrods as well. As well as guideplates, ARP 3/8 rocker studs for a SBC, and SBC comp aluminum roller rockers. I set it at zero lash and it is a tad noisy until the engine gets to about 150 degrees but gets nice and quiet after the temp goes above 150. I'm using the stock cam for now. It runs really well with the speedmaster dual plane, no spacer and a 650 brawler mechanical secondaries carb. 904 trans, 2500 stall and 3.23 gears in a 91 rcsb dakota. Low 13's
Great video! Just curious if you measured compression ratio? On the Magnums I’ve ‘heard’ they are actually 9:1 or at least real close. Also just an FYI if you haven’t seen it, Richard Holdener did a live video yesterday with Steve Dulcich and David Freiburger talking about the Magnum dyno results after doing the Piston Reversal theory. Anyway, keep up the good work and we’ll keep watching lol!
Thanks for watching. I did not measure the compression ratio. Yes, the magnums do have a bit more than the LA's from the factory. I seen what Richard got with the stock magnum, nice !
That was A very informative video an very well said ! Presentation done very well too ! Very easy to understand you an follow along 👌 you also jus helped me diagnose a problem on my truck that I’ve been pondering on ! Since I installed new cam an lifters in my 5.9 magnum , every time I cold start I get a lifter noise for few seconds .. then once started an driven an restart it doesn’t do it . But if it sits for half a day an restart it will be like a semi cold start again for same day An I get lifter noise ! I kept thinking that maybe I had a cpl bad lifters outa the new batch ! But jus hearing you say if the oil hole in the lifter isn’t facing cam then one will get bleed down an lifter noise when starting !! By George I say ,, that is what I ve done I bet .. I have a wicked gut feeling that’s what I got happening !!! QUESTION ?? What will happen if a guy kept driving for any length of time with it that way ? Will eventually damage lifter or cam ?? I suppose a guy should take back apart an check to see if that’s what’s really wrong An causing it, an turn them the proper way an have fixed an be done an not worry no more ? Right 👍 thanku for that great informative video 👌👌
Thank you for watching! Personally, I'd just pull the intake off and be sure the lifters are orientated the right way. Will it damage the lifter if it's wrong ?? I'd say over time it could.
@@318willrun yes that I would figured . Thank you for your quick response an advice as I felt that I probably should do that . An hearing that you would too confirms that I know what project I’m about to start right away ... lol .. thanku again a hope you have a great weekend 👍
The factory Magnum lifters actually like a lot of preload about in the .080" range, won't hurt if it's less just might be a tad noisy. Should be fine on the rocker geometry as well.
You need a solid lifter to accurately check the clearance at full lift. The plunger is compressing on the hydraulic lifter, giving an inaccurate reading. I disassemble the lifter and use washers/small nuts/etc. to shim the lifter solid.
Thanks for watching! Thanks for the tip ! I like to physically see how far down the plunger goes for my preload. Many ways to skin a cat (who actually skins cats?)... lol.
Another great video that was over too fast 😭 the good ones never last long enough but I totally understand with it being as hot as it is its tough to keep wrenching on it especially if you sweat like I do, if so you will have filled the block up with sweat 😂 , Is that one of those regrinds that they sell on Ebay? I bought one when I first started building my stroker 347 I bought one and installed it and by the time I got the heads on I got cold feet and was afraid that I was leaving hoursepower on the table because it was a flat tappet as well because I thought that they were an exact copy of the one that they were comparing them to and I asked the guy who i bought it from and he said that they work but are not 100% saying that they were good to throw in a beater and go have fun at the track with so that done it for me because I wasn't building a beater well it might look like a beater but I like to think that it is not anyway 🤣😂 so I ordered a bigger roller cam from comp cams, one that I knew would make good power and slapped it in there and got the beater cam out of there so Beans won't think that hes a beater and then try to act like he's a beater 😂🤣😂 but he probably will it anyway 🤣 Im sure that you got one that is done right and came with all of the specs, I couldn't degree mine in because they didn't know all of the specs outside of the lift and duration ,he said just put it in straight up and ride 😂🤣😂
Hey 318willrun. I've got another question on the 318 I'm putting together for my son. After I cam in and timing chain on with crank gear at 12 and cam gear at 6. Which direction do I install the oil pump gear. More or less which direction should the slot be after dropping gear in. Thanks ..
Great video! Got a question for you, I'm getting ready to upgrade my 360 installing a Extreme Energy Comp Cam 264R14 Part # 20-745-9, 480 Lift, 212 Exhaust/218 Intake , and comp cams valve springs part# 901-16 summit part# CCA-901-16 the spring rate 353 Ibs,/in. and Sealed Power Hydraulic roller lifters, all that being said it's a fairly mild cam all it requires is a valve spring change, but I figured while it's tore down might as well replace pushrods and the valve seals too, what I need to know is can I still use the stock pushrods? and if not what ones would I need? and still using the stock heads, like the length and diameter of a new set?
Right there at the back of the engine looking at the cam and distributor gears did you break off those pieces of the block? I have my intake off my 318 to port heads and found mine looking like that and I believe it broke somehow it broke off and went through my engine, I’m finding crumbs of metal the size BBs up there in the oil laying up there, is this just how it is casted or do you think mine broke off? My engine runs fine no oil burning so it’s not damaged thankfully
The springs on the Mopar Performance I bought seem a little heavy. When I turn the engine in my hand I feel a weight because of the pressure on the cam. This is normal? I'm afraid of having too much spring load and damaging the cam. I thought of putting a 0.078 washer under the stock pole to increase the load a little, what do you think??? thank you very much for helping me
there will be some resistance. You can check the install height of the spring, and then check the pressure at that point. that is the only true way to know what the seat pressure is and the over the nose pressure.
Hey ;) Do you think it is important what number is minted and has a specific place? and does it matter which side we put it on? I screwed on this plate and sometimes I don't want to turn the camshaft because these handles are blocking it 2:53
@ 2:53 - that is the dog bone. The lifters have to be squared or the dog bones wont' let the lifters rise without bending something. Dog bones should be able to go in any place (interchange), they are not spot specific.
Yeah I'm redoing my head gaskets and everything on my 5.9, and I went ahead and removed the lifters and push rods and everything and I was watching man what do you mean by have your lifters facing the cam with the oil hole?? Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks for posting
Whats the swap like to put a magnum engine in an older vehicle? Any motor mount or clearence issues? What about trans bolt up? I was thinking about getting a magnum 360 or 318 and putting it in my 5th avenue. Its got a A-999 trans. If i do this i am going to have the trans rebuilt. Its got some shudder anyways. But im sure it can be made to handle a 360. Im just not sure about bolt up??
Same bolt pattern for the bell housing. 5.9 magnum will need the flexplate it came with, or an aftermarket one and then it will work with the 318 converter. The 5.2 magnum would be a drop in, and you can use your LA timing cover and pulleys on the magnum if you want.
I was here thinking, my cam is not that high. .417 stock exhaust, 0.506 comp cam intake stock .411 comp cam 0.506 Can the original springs be used? if i put a seat under the spring to get a little more charge, would that work.
Thanks for watching! Do you mean brand name ?? Size of cam would be engine specific, but brand I'm not sure I have a favorite, but I'm impressed with Oregon Cam Grinders.
@@318willrun I'm installing a comp cam 506 lift into a 5.9 mag with some mild porting , thin head gasket and going carburetor , hope it works out for short drives and squealing tires .
hey how's it going. I installed the new cam and new springs. But the engine is weak and dying. put all the stock timming marks . the distributor is marking 0 degrees on the scanner, wouldn't it be better to advance the point a little ??? thank you abs
Depending on the size of cam, but you may end up between 12* to 22* in initial timing. I would put it at 10* and see if it's better. If so, try 14*. As long as the engine is picking up rpm's and acting more lively, you are heading in the right direction
hello how are you..... can you help me? i have a compcam 20-746-9 in my durango 5.2 and a need replace de springs valves, did you use Mopar Performance Valve Springs P4876062?? can i use this spring with my stock retainers??? thankssss
I used the Hughes 1110 spring kit, and it looks like they'd work great for you cam as well. Comes with springs, retainers, and locks and fits on the factory magnum head without machining
Love the video! I just rebuilt my 5.2 (had 204k miles on it). I put a Hughes cam in it with the same spring kit you used (1110). The cam has .507” lift int and .517” ex w/ the factory 1:6 ratio. Truck fires up and runs, however I am getting a really loud chattering/clicking from what sounds like The Valley. I have taken it apart a few times and made sure my lifters are in right, but it hasn’t gotten any better. Any ideas? (I was thinking maybe push rod length?) thank you for your videos!!! @318willrun
I completely agree on the oil only lube on a roller cam and lifters 👍🇺🇸
Appreciate you watching !
Awesome sir!!! She'll be a runner soon!!!
Thanks for watching ! We are hoping it does well.... !
i just love your videos man! i can watch magnum videos all day. I love learning new stuff and i thank you for taking the time to teach people and make these videos. Im thinking of rebuilding a 5.2 and these videos help ALOT!
Thanks! We appreciate it!
Great valve train video, very helpful and informative. Give me some ideas for my roller cam motors! Thanks!
Thank you ! Cheering for ya !
Great Video and Nice Rollors!
Thanks! The factory rollers work great in a mild build like ours.
@@318willrun Awesome....Did you see my $10 fix video? I wanted to see what you thought of the fix. I checked in my last video and nearly a drop of oil out the exhaust compared to before. Sorry i would have messaged you on FB but not sure if you have one
watching your videos make me glad i subscribe tour channel its straight forward and not all the latest gidgets and gadgets to run sone fun times i saw your time that you ran on your latest video wow! the fact that you did it on a budget is even better! kuddos to you !!
On my carbed 5.9 I'm using comp pushrods as well. As well as guideplates, ARP 3/8 rocker studs for a SBC, and SBC comp aluminum roller rockers. I set it at zero lash and it is a tad noisy until the engine gets to about 150 degrees but gets nice and quiet after the temp goes above 150. I'm using the stock cam for now. It runs really well with the speedmaster dual plane, no spacer and a 650 brawler mechanical secondaries carb. 904 trans, 2500 stall and 3.23 gears in a 91 rcsb dakota. Low 13's
Very Cool !!! Thanks for watching !
Great video! Great information! Thanks for sharing it!
Thanks for watching! I really appreciate you consistently being with us friend !
Great video! Just curious if you measured compression ratio? On the Magnums I’ve ‘heard’ they are actually 9:1 or at least real close. Also just an FYI if you haven’t seen it, Richard Holdener did a live video yesterday with Steve Dulcich and David Freiburger talking about the Magnum dyno results after doing the Piston Reversal theory. Anyway, keep up the good work and we’ll keep watching lol!
Thanks for watching. I did not measure the compression ratio. Yes, the magnums do have a bit more than the LA's from the factory. I seen what Richard got with the stock magnum, nice !
That was A very informative video an very well said ! Presentation done very well too ! Very easy to understand you an follow along 👌 you also jus helped me diagnose a problem on my truck that I’ve been pondering on ! Since I installed new cam an lifters in my 5.9 magnum , every time I cold start I get a lifter noise for few seconds .. then once started an driven an restart it doesn’t do it . But if it sits for half a day an restart it will be like a semi cold start again for same day An I get lifter noise ! I kept thinking that maybe I had a cpl bad lifters outa the new batch ! But jus hearing you say if the oil hole in the lifter isn’t facing cam then one will get bleed down an lifter noise when starting !! By George I say ,, that is what I ve done I bet .. I have a wicked gut feeling that’s what I got happening !!! QUESTION ?? What will happen if a guy kept driving for any length of time with it that way ? Will eventually damage lifter or cam ?? I suppose a guy should take back apart an check to see if that’s what’s really wrong An causing it, an turn them the proper way an have fixed an be done an not worry no more ? Right 👍 thanku for that great informative video 👌👌
Thank you for watching! Personally, I'd just pull the intake off and be sure the lifters are orientated the right way. Will it damage the lifter if it's wrong ?? I'd say over time it could.
@@318willrun yes that I would figured . Thank you for your quick response an advice as I felt that I probably should do that . An hearing that you would too confirms that I know what project I’m about to start right away ... lol .. thanku again a hope you have a great weekend 👍
🤙💪
Thank you 🤙🤙
No problem 👍
The factory Magnum lifters actually like a lot of preload about in the .080" range, won't hurt if it's less just might be a tad noisy. Should be fine on the rocker geometry as well.
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the info!
You need a solid lifter to accurately check the clearance at full lift. The plunger is compressing on the hydraulic lifter, giving an inaccurate reading. I disassemble the lifter and use washers/small nuts/etc. to shim the lifter solid.
Thanks for watching! Thanks for the tip ! I like to physically see how far down the plunger goes for my preload. Many ways to skin a cat (who actually skins cats?)... lol.
Another great video that was over too fast 😭 the good ones never last long enough but I totally understand with it being as hot as it is its tough to keep wrenching on it especially if you sweat like I do, if so you will have filled the block up with sweat 😂 , Is that one of those regrinds that they sell on Ebay? I bought one when I first started building my stroker 347 I bought one and installed it and by the time I got the heads on I got cold feet and was afraid that I was leaving hoursepower on the table because it was a flat tappet as well because I thought that they were an exact copy of the one that they were comparing them to and I asked the guy who i bought it from and he said that they work but are not 100% saying that they were good to throw in a beater and go have fun at the track with so that done it for me because I wasn't building a beater well it might look like a beater but I like to think that it is not anyway 🤣😂 so I ordered a bigger roller cam from comp cams, one that I knew would make good power and slapped it in there and got the beater cam out of there so Beans won't think that hes a beater and then try to act like he's a beater 😂🤣😂 but he probably will it anyway 🤣 Im sure that you got one that is done right and came with all of the specs, I couldn't degree mine in because they didn't know all of the specs outside of the lift and duration ,he said just put it in straight up and ride 😂🤣😂
Can't fill the block up with sweat, all that salt would rust the block!!!! LOL. Thanks for watching
I’m a fairly nu sub, but I love it….Mopar or no car 👍👍👍👍✅✅✅✅
Glad you're here !!!!! Now, where are we ???? 🤷♂️ Thanks for watching !
Hey 318willrun. I've got another question on the 318 I'm putting together for my son. After I cam in and timing chain on with crank gear at 12 and cam gear at 6. Which direction do I install the oil pump gear. More or less which direction should the slot be after dropping gear in. Thanks ..
If the rotor on your distributor is lined up with the slot for the gear drive, then have the oil pump gear slot facing # 1 cylinder
Thank you...
Great video! Got a question for you, I'm getting ready to upgrade my 360 installing a Extreme Energy Comp Cam 264R14 Part # 20-745-9, 480 Lift, 212 Exhaust/218 Intake , and comp cams valve springs part# 901-16 summit part# CCA-901-16 the spring rate 353 Ibs,/in. and Sealed Power Hydraulic roller lifters, all that being said it's a fairly mild cam all it requires is a valve spring change, but I figured while it's tore down might as well replace pushrods and the valve seals too, what I need to know is can I still use the stock pushrods? and if not what ones would I need? and still using the stock heads, like the length and diameter of a new set?
If you are using the stock rocker arms, then I think the push rods should be fine
@@318willrun Yep I will be using the stock rocker arms.
Right there at the back of the engine looking at the cam and distributor gears did you break off those pieces of the block? I have my intake off my 318 to port heads and found mine looking like that and I believe it broke somehow it broke off and went through my engine, I’m finding crumbs of metal the size BBs up there in the oil laying up there, is this just how it is casted or do you think mine broke off? My engine runs fine no oil burning so it’s not damaged thankfully
I don't think it's broke. However, most of my workings have been with LA small blocks.
That’s good news then because I was worried, thank you I appreciate you taking the time to answer 😎😎😎
The springs on the Mopar Performance I bought seem a little heavy.
When I turn the engine in my hand I feel a weight because of the pressure on the cam.
This is normal?
I'm afraid of having too much spring load and damaging the cam.
I thought of putting a 0.078 washer under the stock pole to increase the load a little, what do you think???
thank you very much for helping me
there will be some resistance. You can check the install height of the spring, and then check the pressure at that point. that is the only true way to know what the seat pressure is and the over the nose pressure.
Hey ;) Do you think it is important what number is minted and has a specific place? and does it matter which side we put it on? I screwed on this plate and sometimes I don't want to turn the camshaft because these handles are blocking it 2:53
@ 2:53 - that is the dog bone. The lifters have to be squared or the dog bones wont' let the lifters rise without bending something. Dog bones should be able to go in any place (interchange), they are not spot specific.
Yeah I'm redoing my head gaskets and everything on my 5.9, and I went ahead and removed the lifters and push rods and everything and I was watching man what do you mean by have your lifters facing the cam with the oil hole?? Any info would be greatly appreciated thanks for posting
Lifters have an oil hole. You can see it at 2.39 of the video. You can see it again at 2.49 when i push the lifter up.
Ok thanks man really appreciate it 👍
Whats the swap like to put a magnum engine in an older vehicle? Any motor mount or clearence issues? What about trans bolt up? I was thinking about getting a magnum 360 or 318 and putting it in my 5th avenue. Its got a A-999 trans. If i do this i am going to have the trans rebuilt. Its got some shudder anyways. But im sure it can be made to handle a 360. Im just not sure about bolt up??
Also. Any ideas for a junk yard rear end that would be an easy swap to an m-body?
Same bolt pattern for the bell housing. 5.9 magnum will need the flexplate it came with, or an aftermarket one and then it will work with the 318 converter. The 5.2 magnum would be a drop in, and you can use your LA timing cover and pulleys on the magnum if you want.
What valve springs did you use?
Hughes 1110 spring kit
I was here thinking, my cam is not that high.
.417 stock exhaust, 0.506 comp cam
intake stock .411 comp cam 0.506
Can the original springs be used?
if i put a seat under the spring to get a little more charge, would that work.
Not saying you can't use them, but the factory springs on the magnums barely make do on the factory cam. Personally, I would upgrade the springs.
What is your favorite camshaft ?
Thanks for watching! Do you mean brand name ?? Size of cam would be engine specific, but brand I'm not sure I have a favorite, but I'm impressed with Oregon Cam Grinders.
@@318willrun I'm installing a comp cam 506 lift into a 5.9 mag with some mild porting , thin head gasket and going carburetor , hope it works out for short drives and squealing tires .
@@Ratridez sure she'll be a ripper !!
hi, how are you!!! the hydraulic lifters has a small hole, is this up to intake or down to crank??? thanks again
Small hole point to the cam
@@318willrun ok the hole stay up and pointed to cam right???
thank you very much
@@GalpaoV8 yep
@@318willrun thank You very much ,
hey how's it going.
I installed the new cam and new springs. But the engine is weak and dying.
put all the stock timming marks .
the distributor is marking 0 degrees on the scanner, wouldn't it be better to advance the point a little ??? thank you abs
Depending on the size of cam, but you may end up between 12* to 22* in initial timing. I would put it at 10* and see if it's better. If so, try 14*. As long as the engine is picking up rpm's and acting more lively, you are heading in the right direction
@@318willrun but my 318 is modern, i have fuel syc.
@@318willrun think the vacuum decreased in the tbi air intake, that's why it's dying
@@GalpaoV8 ahhhh.... good point.
hello how are you..... can you help me?
i have a compcam 20-746-9 in my durango 5.2 and a need replace de springs valves, did you use Mopar Performance Valve Springs P4876062??
can i use this spring with my stock retainers??? thankssss
I used the Hughes 1110 spring kit, and it looks like they'd work great for you cam as well. Comes with springs, retainers, and locks and fits on the factory magnum head without machining
@@318willrun hello thanks, thanks, thanks
but i cant find this part. where can you to by this??? i m from brazil.
@@GalpaoV8 Looks like they may be currently out, but here is the web site. The spring kit was Hughes 1110 www.hughesengines.com/Index/index.php
No moly lube?
Thanks for watching! I assume you mean on the cam ? I only use motor oil on roller cams.
Love the video! I just rebuilt my 5.2 (had 204k miles on it). I put a Hughes cam in it with the same spring kit you used (1110). The cam has .507” lift int and .517” ex w/ the factory 1:6 ratio. Truck fires up and runs, however I am getting a really loud chattering/clicking from what sounds like The Valley. I have taken it apart a few times and made sure my lifters are in right, but it hasn’t gotten any better. Any ideas? (I was thinking maybe push rod length?) thank you for your videos!!! @318willrun
I would go to push rod length first. Then look at the lifters themselves if they are aftermarkte