Відео

Great video....Just my opinion, I run zinc in any flat tappet engine. Even tho the cam may be small the lack of spring pressure can wipe the cam.

Is there a police intercepter 318 that’s what someone said about an old cop car purchased a while back. 1970’s or so.

Simple comparison and fitment for an A body. I have had a 383 stroked to 426 in a 71 duster was a complete pain. If I was to do it again, I would build a 360 stroked to 408 with trick flow heads and a dual plane intake. nice mild hydraulic roller cam and make 500 HP and have a motor that fits an A body and is even lighter . Lots of advantages.

Battery acid wasn't getting by your door. Aluminum is an amphoric metal. that means it could act as a acid or a base. Anyway since aluminum is a more active metal it was acting like a negative negative terminal on a aluminum iron battery. Whatever it got wet or salt on it it would make electricity just like a battery would.. the metal corroding (oxidizing) is how a battery works! When the aluminum breaks down it turns into a positive ion which reacts with the oxygen. An electron goes out the metal in the other direction making it the negative terminal of a battery. Basically metal corrosion is the same thing as a battery discharging. Metal plating is the same as charging a battery. And if your car battery , your original ground, was better connected to the aluminum than the iron, that's like connecting two batteries against each other connecting the positive to the negative and a negative to the positive you're going to kill both batteries fast! The same thing would happen with zinc or magnesium and a lot of other active metals they should be no where near the positive ground connection. I would be curious if you took off your ground wire and disconnected your battery, got the floor wet near the door, even better, wet with salty water, and then put a voltmeter between the aluminum and iron and see how many volts you get? You can then probably use that voltage to trace how it's getting into your electrical system and killing your battery! But don't worry there is no acid by the driver's side door (unless you actually spilled some there , carbonated water is carbonic acid, dropped ketchup is acetic acid, vomit is hydrochloric acid, lemonade and sour candies are citric acid, just saying somebody might have spilled something...)

Aren't you Frank Caliendos brother...!? :)

Great video, really helped with my conversion of a 360 Magnum from a LA318 with a 727. Greatly appreciated!!!!

Good video, totally agree.

Aluminum trim on steel..Duh...🤪

Are you sure it's battery acid do you live in a high salt area in the winter time do they salt a lot because salt would be drawn to a bad ground like battery acid have you checked it out hate to say it have you tasted it does it taste like salt or battery acid at your age you should know the difference at this point you've probably tasted both

Common on these dodges

The free electrons were free range grazing on the Aluminium, those pesky free electrons love the aluminum since it sets on the sheet metal body. Dodge probably used sweet iron in the cab and those free electrons were feeding on the aluminum but loves living in the sweet steel of the cab. Make sure you ground the electric so they won't wonder into the aluminum to eat when they are hungry.

Buy a Chevy and get rid of the problem.

Good diagnosis and fix Tim. Definitely a problem with older vehicles. Thanks for sharing. 👍🇺🇸👍

Do you have a guess on what your compression ratio is for that 318? I believe the Speedmaster's have a 65cc chamber vs. your recessed pistons?

Electrolysis dude

Mopar or no car👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍

Weird. I always disconnect the battery if it's going to be sitting.

I ran your plate to find or address and am coming over for dinner.

The word on your hat explains the whole problem.

Does this cam have a choppy idle ? Is it noticeable ?

Corrosion, drain prolly didnt help it, prolly acted like a anode having a charge or lack of

No car is a Mopar.

had to be the bats in the bellfree not in the bat tree..

Canadian eh? Lol👍👍

Galvanic loss do to dissimilar metals flowing current, it corrodes fast anyways because of the difference in potential you add a little current to them and they corrode very fast and use up the electricity.To move the electrons between the 2 metals takes the energy stored in the battery. IDK why I find this kinda thing fascinating but i do. So if im wrong or you have more info please @ me.

You have electricity running through that area. Probably through that piece of trim. I believe its corrosion.. does the body harness run under that panel?

Dudes sped fr

So you just discovered you had bad ground 🎉

Basically, bad ground connections, it was causing backfeed to that area because the fuses and other main power connectors are in that area. With a better ground to the frame the pathing is corrected and it's not "shorting" anymore.

The main ground corroded amd failed so it was causing a short to the body which would cause this . Ive seen this more on older mopars then gms or fords love all american makes myself .

I thought this was indicative of an unsealed battery leaking fumes

69 340 for me. I have seen 340's destroked to 302 that turned 9 seconds in the quarter mile.

Hey Tim, a buddy of mine gave me some camguard to put in the 77 stock 318 in my van. Any thoughts on that stuff? I understand if you have no comment :)

VR1 is my go-to newly over hauled 318 ,she likes it.

Yah, I've had that problem for years on some of those cars. It's galvanic corrosion, kind of like electrolysis. It sucks. Had some nice door sills ruined. It turned the aluminum to jelly and ate the edges like swiss cheese. Normally will happen in the presence of high moisture or humidity dissimilar metals. The less 'noble' metal (aluminum) is always consumed like an anode.

Eeeeeeeeeeeh Tim ,,, this iz R Moore,, transporter 15 yr,,, 4 diesels over the yr, my Canadian dude used the crap outa Rotella in his daughters car,,,, just like Im not in the chart game drive thousands and millions a miles though.......

🎉tim i ĺike tje comment about tje magnum at tĥe end So many oʻn here want a pour it fix. It just doesn̈t happen like that

I use rotella in my 150cc scooter 15W 40.

Great info! How do they taste though?😀 seriously though, I do like Rotella in my ‘73 with a 318. I also use it my lawn and, snow equipment with good success. I am interested in trying that gear oil you showed. I haven’t tried synthetic in the rear.

I use whatever is on sale for the daily driver, got 240,000 miles on it now.

Been using vr-1 for over 10yrs in my 74 Duster and my wifes 1950 wayfarer.

That VR1 race oil does have Hi Zinc and that is great but it is a race oil. Race oil has lower detergent levels. It will need to be changed more frequently. Just saying.

Rotella 15-40 in everything I own .

Good testimony. I’m tired of the meme “ use a good quality motor oil “. Lol . Name me a bad oil then ?

I'm with you on the TV screen in the dash, how much more does that cost? V6 is a good engine.

I wiped one,about 30,000 into some other shops rebuild. I believe a valve was tight. I run it till the lifter quit spinning. I maintain, and use all I can get back. Change oil 4 a year. With each season change. Change filter,every other.

For my daily driver, my fevered oil brand is the one that is on sale that day, but the most important thing is to change it often.

Small blocks in A bodys. Big blocks in B and E bodys. Cummins in trucks. Ive had all the above but B engines are the easiest to work on. Front distributor, deep skirt block/flat oil pan, external oil pump and water pump mounting removal for cam changes. I have a motor home 440 spare but Im keeping the 318 in my W 150 because of its light weight. So it depends on application which is best.

There’s different options for your engine you just gotta find the right one and his information is great in my opinion

Tim, you make me want a Dodge full size van. Your the guy that gets the credit!