Great help, thank you - as a woman I would have never tried this - but a girlfriend of mine and I tried it out and it worked perfectly fine! Awesome, it was actually fun!
Hello Rod, I've never heard that one before, thanks for the tip. I bet as vehicles age the warning lights don't reset as quick, especially after an oil service, so that might be handy.
My Mazda 3s, after an oil change you can just feel it's smoother, the pickup is smoother and more powerful, and the engine just generally runs quieter and smoother. I haven't done my own oil changes but it's nice to know how to do one if I somehow need to do it myself, thanks. I have a 2021 Mazda 3 turbo sedan. Another thing that's crucial and good to learn is how to install and change the cabin and engine air filters every year or so, or when dirty, preferably before they are real dirty. Can mess with the AC and air flow systems and other things if you let them get too gunked. It's easy and anybody can change those out, the dealership won't tell you that, though! I always put my own wipers on, too, saves money and time. Also keeping a good 12v tire inflator/meter handy is essential. The new Mazdas computer reads out the tire pressure which is very useful.
Now I'm ready to put the summer tires back on, SE Michigan should be able to safely put the snow behind us, as of this week. Too bad we have road construction every where you look right now, thanks government.
A good trick is to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil drain out, makes less mess. The Mazda 6 that has a cartridge filter has a bolt on the plastic filter housing for this reason.
Good video for novices. I like Wix filters but prefer the Bosch 3300 for our cars. I wipe off the base plate thoroughly and use new oil to coat the gasket. How often do you change the aluminum drain plug gasket? The corrosion in such a new vehicle is a little heartbreaking ... I wipe down every bit I see with used oil.
Good call with using fresh oil to lubricate the new filter gasket, that's probably the best standard to follow. I'm with you on the filter brands, I would use Bosch over Wix, I'd use Mobile or Fram over Wix too, but depending the sales at the store, I try to stay flexible. As for the aluminum drain plug gasket...I'll do some reading on this but as long as it doesn't appear damaged, corroded, or out of shape I'm suspecting that it can continue to be used for quite a while (if I see leaks on the driveway I'll know I was wrong). I think this is my 5th Mazda3 and I've never gone beyond 50K miles, but I've never had any incidents with the drain plug gasket. Again, I'll see what turns up with some googling, but probably not a big deal. As for the corrosion under the vehicle, yes hugely disappointing, especially if you live in a climate that supports salting of the roads, it just eats the car for breakfast, which is why I typically support people who lease vehicles (or at least I understand). Thanks for the comments Sean, take care, and thanks for watching.
Do you have to top up oil much between services? I'm buying a 3 year old model that had a service after year 1 at 5k miles and missed the 2nd service. Year 3 service was done at 15k miles so 10k and 2 years between services. Do you think I should avoid? I am buying from a Mazda dealer as used / approved with 12 months warranty.
That's certainly not a good sign, but on it's own it probably isn't too damaging. I wonder what other forms of neglect were inflicted if they failed to perform an oil change. If they used synthetic oil then 10,000 miles is normal, but if they used conventional oil, that's a few thousand miles higher than you would hope (I wouldn't want to wander much beyond 7K on conventional). If the car is in good shape, and you had a mechanic do an inspection, If you get a good price, then I wouldn't let it stop you. This neglect should factor into the selling price (negotiation).
@@SebastianOats Thank you for your reply. I am mechanically reasonably competent having maintained my own bikes and cars over the years. I've decided to proceed with the purchase and I pick up the car this Friday so wish me luck :-) The first service was also done by a main dealer so I would expect they used synthetic oil. Its my first Mazda so I mainly wanted to know if the 2.0L petrol is known to consume much oil.
I've had several Mazda3's in a row, and honestly none of them seemed to consume much oil. To be fair I have never taken much time to measure the old oil volume when changing the oil, so I'm sure there is a marginal amount that is normal to burn off in regular use, but I've never had the need to top off the oil in between any of my oil changes, even if I went all the way to 10K miles with synthetic. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but I'm thinking you probably picked up a solid vehicle. For a vehicle of it's size, it certainly has been the perfect tool for me over many years, I'll probably need something larger in a year or two, but for now it's still treating me as I'd hoped it would.
@ New Yorks Finest, thanks for pointing that out, I wish I had remembered to include that part at the end, definitely subtle but important, otherwise the maintenance warning light will become an irritation.
@@SebastianOats is it cheaper to do it yourself (time, oil, driving to the store to dispose of the oil, filter, tool to get the filter off) it costs me around $50 to have my oil changed at the oil change place
Hello Ginio, it's going to depend on the year of your Mazda 3. I remember Mazda switching between an Allen wrench plug and a socket style plug, but each was equipped for several years. I bet a quick internet search on your model year and engine would reveal for sure which style you have. Certainly as a last resort, you could get under there and take a look...might be worth the peace of mind to know for sure, before you attempt an oil change.
Let's just say, don't ever buy a used car from Michigan if you want to keep it for a while, we use salt to melt the ice and snow in the winter...a lot of salt, and this speeds up the rust and corrosion like crazy, so the underbody of the car will rust after one season, my rims took two seasons, but yeah that's how we roll around here. Chrome or Aluminum Alloy wheels are a big help, or in my case buy a set of winter rims and tires, and a separate set for summer. By the way, Winter Tires are amazing in the snow, all season tires don't even come close, can't emphasize this enough.
Great video. Actually one of the best on youtube. No fancy filming, all is clear.
Thanks Victor, much appreciated
Great help, thank you - as a woman I would have never tried this - but a girlfriend of mine and I tried it out and it worked perfectly fine! Awesome, it was actually fun!
That's amazing, so glad you tried it, and that you had fun doing it. Once you try it once you're hooked and it only gets easier each time.
Great job jessica
A good quality set of socket wrenches help, and a good solid pair of tire jumps I would get metal ones if you can.
It's always a good practice to fill the new oil filter with the new oil before fitting so oil pressure light goes out quicker on start up.
Hello Rod, I've never heard that one before, thanks for the tip. I bet as vehicles age the warning lights don't reset as quick, especially after an oil service, so that might be handy.
This reminds me to grab a handful of latex gloves from work! Great job... Very Helpful!
Thanks for your video !😁
My Mazda 3s, after an oil change you can just feel it's smoother, the pickup is smoother and more powerful, and the engine just generally runs quieter and smoother. I haven't done
my own oil changes but it's nice to know how to do one if I somehow need to do it myself, thanks. I have a 2021 Mazda 3 turbo sedan. Another thing that's crucial and good
to learn is how to install and change the cabin and engine air filters every year or so, or when dirty, preferably before they are real dirty. Can mess with the AC and air flow
systems and other things if you let them get too gunked. It's easy and anybody can change those out, the dealership won't tell you that, though! I always put my own
wipers on, too, saves money and time. Also keeping a good 12v tire inflator/meter handy is essential. The new Mazdas computer reads out the tire pressure which is very useful.
Damn, you're all ready for snow season.
Now I'm ready to put the summer tires back on, SE Michigan should be able to safely put the snow behind us, as of this week. Too bad we have road construction every where you look right now, thanks government.
A good trick is to punch a hole in the bottom of the filter to let the oil drain out, makes less mess. The Mazda 6 that has a cartridge filter has a bolt on the plastic filter housing for this reason.
The manual gearbox lives HELL YES.
Excellent explanation
Good video for novices. I like Wix filters but prefer the Bosch 3300 for our cars. I wipe off the base plate thoroughly and use new oil to coat the gasket. How often do you change the aluminum drain plug gasket? The corrosion in such a new vehicle is a little heartbreaking ... I wipe down every bit I see with used oil.
Good call with using fresh oil to lubricate the new filter gasket, that's probably the best standard to follow. I'm with you on the filter brands, I would use Bosch over Wix, I'd use Mobile or Fram over Wix too, but depending the sales at the store, I try to stay flexible. As for the aluminum drain plug gasket...I'll do some reading on this but as long as it doesn't appear damaged, corroded, or out of shape I'm suspecting that it can continue to be used for quite a while (if I see leaks on the driveway I'll know I was wrong). I think this is my 5th Mazda3 and I've never gone beyond 50K miles, but I've never had any incidents with the drain plug gasket. Again, I'll see what turns up with some googling, but probably not a big deal. As for the corrosion under the vehicle, yes hugely disappointing, especially if you live in a climate that supports salting of the roads, it just eats the car for breakfast, which is why I typically support people who lease vehicles (or at least I understand). Thanks for the comments Sean, take care, and thanks for watching.
You can flip the crush ring around and get 2 uses out of each one. There less than a buck a piece....I prefer the copper ones
Do you have to top up oil much between services? I'm buying a 3 year old model that had a service after year 1 at 5k miles and missed the 2nd service. Year 3 service was done at 15k miles so 10k and 2 years between services. Do you think I should avoid? I am buying from a Mazda dealer as used / approved with 12 months warranty.
That's certainly not a good sign, but on it's own it probably isn't too damaging. I wonder what other forms of neglect were inflicted if they failed to perform an oil change. If they used synthetic oil then 10,000 miles is normal, but if they used conventional oil, that's a few thousand miles higher than you would hope (I wouldn't want to wander much beyond 7K on conventional). If the car is in good shape, and you had a mechanic do an inspection, If you get a good price, then I wouldn't let it stop you. This neglect should factor into the selling price (negotiation).
@@SebastianOats Thank you for your reply. I am mechanically reasonably competent having maintained my own bikes and cars over the years. I've decided to proceed with the purchase and I pick up the car this Friday so wish me luck :-) The first service was also done by a main dealer so I would expect they used synthetic oil. Its my first Mazda so I mainly wanted to know if the 2.0L petrol is known to consume much oil.
I've had several Mazda3's in a row, and honestly none of them seemed to consume much oil. To be fair I have never taken much time to measure the old oil volume when changing the oil, so I'm sure there is a marginal amount that is normal to burn off in regular use, but I've never had the need to top off the oil in between any of my oil changes, even if I went all the way to 10K miles with synthetic. I'll keep my fingers crossed, but I'm thinking you probably picked up a solid vehicle. For a vehicle of it's size, it certainly has been the perfect tool for me over many years, I'll probably need something larger in a year or two, but for now it's still treating me as I'd hoped it would.
make sure you clear your instrument panel lights and reset your oil change in your console
@ New Yorks Finest, thanks for pointing that out, I wish I had remembered to include that part at the end, definitely subtle but important, otherwise the maintenance warning light will become an irritation.
@@SebastianOats is it cheaper to do it yourself (time, oil, driving to the store to dispose of the oil, filter, tool to get the filter off) it costs me around $50 to have my oil changed at the oil change place
I have a mazda 3 also don't know the drain
Is this a 2.0? I'm my 2.5 I just dump all 5 qts in...nvm I see it is
Are they all 17mm
Hello Ginio, it's going to depend on the year of your Mazda 3. I remember Mazda switching between an Allen wrench plug and a socket style plug, but each was equipped for several years. I bet a quick internet search on your model year and engine would reveal for sure which style you have. Certainly as a last resort, you could get under there and take a look...might be worth the peace of mind to know for sure, before you attempt an oil change.
@@SebastianOats mine is a 2018 the drain plug is a hex but couldn't go far underneath the car to verify it
@@SebastianOats Exactly
Got the same model year with the 2.0 and we got 16mm (Asian Spec)
Bro whats with ur rims? Its a 2018. Only 3 year old car wtf.
Let's just say, don't ever buy a used car from Michigan if you want to keep it for a while, we use salt to melt the ice and snow in the winter...a lot of salt, and this speeds up the rust and corrosion like crazy, so the underbody of the car will rust after one season, my rims took two seasons, but yeah that's how we roll around here. Chrome or Aluminum Alloy wheels are a big help, or in my case buy a set of winter rims and tires, and a separate set for summer. By the way, Winter Tires are amazing in the snow, all season tires don't even come close, can't emphasize this enough.