2016 Mazda3 Front Brakes Replacement - How To
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- Опубліковано 23 сер 2024
- This video shows the process of replacing the front brakes on a 2016 Mazda3 Grand Touring.
Parts Needed:
- New brake pads
- New brake rotors (if needed)
- Anti-seize (optional but preferred)
Tools Needed:
- Socket wrench
- Sockets (13mm, 17mm, and 21mm or lug wrench)
- Flat head screwdriver
- C-clamp (for compressing brake piston)
- Floor jack
- Jack stands
- Breaker bar or pipe (recommended)
There you have it! Feel free to comment any questions and we will be sure to provide any suggestions we may have!
DISCLAIMER
This video is intended for informational and entertainment purposes only. All repairs should be handled by a licensed professional. We, steveandthemilkman, are not responsible or liable for any damages, loss, or injuries that may result from or be related to the use of any methods or equipment shown in this video. We do not guarantee that the content of this video is complete or accurate. Any damages, loss, or injuries that may occur due to the use of any equipment or information provided in this video are the responsibility of the user only. This disclaimer supersedes any content of this video.
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This is hands down the best beginner breakdown of how to replace brakes that I've ever seen. I work with legitimate engineers who don't even come close to this level of understanding and documentation.
Stellar job guys.
Eine der besten Erklärungen, kompetent und sachlich.
Auch ohne den Text komplett zu verstehen - sehr hilfreich.
Nice demo. When pushing in the piston I usually use the old brake pad in front of the piston so I don't push on one edge of the piston and/or damage it
Nice!!
I’d also suggest you open up brake fluid reservoir cap when pushing the piston back to ease pressure in current extruded position.
Dude this tutorial is fuego. Appreciate you for going into deep detail & considerations. Answering questions that we aren't even thinking sometimes.
Thanks for making this video, super helpful! People like you are what make DIY maintenance achievable for everyone!
No problem! We're glad it's useful for you. That's our goal, we want to show that jobs like this are completely doable for most people. It's great that you can save a lot of money and build up a collection of tools and skills at the same time.
I haven't changed brakes in years, and this is exactly what I needed for a refresher on my 3, thank you!
This was awesome, thank you so much. I've been putting off changing my rotors for months and this video made it a very easy process. Took maybe 1 1/2 on the first side while I went back and forth looking for tools and jumping around this video; by the time I was done with the first side I felt like a pro and had the other side done in 20-30 minutes.
This was an excellent tutorial; thank you!
Very descriptive video. Great for beginners. Removing the rotors was the scourge of my existence. Ended up purchasing a gear puller to take them off. Also, I think you should insert the pads from the outside of the hardware, instead of the inside. Made it much easier to avoid touching the front. Also didn't have to fight with the hardware to get them in. I believe they are designed to be inserted in this direction.
Thanks for posting this. As someone already stated you should keep the anti rattle shim with the slits in it from the original pads. The hardware kit to replace them on my 2018 3 Grand Touring Mex is BJY7-33-29Z. A shop threw mine out and I had to replace them.
Extremely helpful video for a beginner like myself. I just did all 4 brake rotors and pads thanks to your video and a few others. I appreciate all the detail you went into of why you should be doing the steps you demonstrated. That’s often neglected.
If you are going to replace the rotor, there's no need to worry about damaging it with the hammer and therefore protecting it with wood like that---just some info for anyone interested. This is a great video.
Assuming that the new rotors are ok. I have had a warped brand new disc in the past but I was able to use the old one till I could get the warped disc exchanged.
Yeah easy to find a piece of wood just in case. If there is an issue you can still use the old rotor.
Very nice video. Thank you! Was looking for the future when replacing my brakes for my Mazda. Mine is a 2017 grand touring with 23k miles on it. Eventually I'll get those type of rotors with the drilled holes in them to replace mine. So much cheaper to do stuff like that yourself then paying a shop to do it for you
Wish I saw this before I ran into the annoying hardware following a different tutorial… great info and thanks for putting it out there!
Man thank you. Finally a clear and useful video.
You're welcome! We're glad it was useful to you.
The anti rattle shims that you disgarded from the original pads should be retained. The brakes will still stop the car without but are designed to work with with them. My local tyre/brake centre did the same on my car and I noticed a slight rattle afterwards when driving on uneven surfaces or raised manholes. At first I thought it was a worn link arm bush but only after I took it in for a Mazda service did they spot the missing shims. That cost £67 just in parts and I fitted them myself. Now no rattle.
thank you so much for making this tutorial. I'm going to try my best to change my brake pads/rotors ASAP.
This is amazingly detailed! please do every other possible driveway job next ;)
I like to put the old shoe on the Piston before tightening with the c-clamp to even out the pressure
Recently bought a 2017 Mazda 3 so if you still have this car, your maintenance videos are going to be a great reference. I cant see that anyone has done underbody rust treatment on this model so I'd love to see a comprehensive video on that. My own channel is dedicated to motorcycles but you never know....;-)
I also have the same year and model and getting ready to change front and rear brakes and rotors. Be aware that if your Mazda has electronic parking brake you MOST put the parking brake in service mode and push the rear caliper instead of rotating it. Lots of people are braking the motor in the intent of push and rotate piston. UA-cam has some videos about this procedure just search “ how to put Mazda electronic brakes in service mode.
Nice, easy to follow video, very informative. Just doing mine, and my discs are stuck like a limpet. Got a 3 legged puller on them, but they're not shifting. Me thinks it's hammer time.
This video was awesome and doing it myself saved me a lot of money. Great tutoral video. I did it step my step following your video and it was a lot easier the other side. 🤘🏽👍🏾
Great tutorial. Thanks for taking the time to share!!👍🍻
Awesome demonstration. Torque settings would make it perfect 👌👍
Thanks for the video. Great learning experience. I ha ld to make sure to get the correct lubricant for the caliper pins, back of pads. Etc.
Awesome video, will come in handy this weekend
Awesome DIY ! Now I'm ready to work on mine. Thanks!
Thank you! Glad we could help.
Thank you so much for the help, saved me a lot of time and pain!
No problem.. Thanks for watching!
@@steveandthemilkman1311Nice video. What brand pads did you use ?
Good stuff. i'f only napa gave me the right size caliper and rotor
Well, the incorrect parts are usually less expensive so...
😏
Use the old brake pad to help compress the piston. It will help compress it evenly. Also I would recommend putting some antiseize on the brake hardware where the pads and the hardware meet. Not using antiseize is why removing your pads were so difficult.
Thanks for the tricks. We love little technique that make things go smoother for the job and future jobs.
This video is going to be a huge help. My 2015 is due in all 4 corners and I'm upgrading to the PowerStop Z23 Evolution kit.
I presume doing the rear brakes will be a similar process.
We're glad to hear it! The rear should be very similar.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 and it was. Did the job last weekend. The new stuff feels pretty good. Now to address the rusty parking brake mechanisms on the calipers. Which are apparently a weak point.
@@intimidatorno3ca Did you ever do that? I'm do for mine
@@Zadesniper I did. Last November. Went pretty well. Needed a tool to spin back the rear caliper pistons. The one I picked up was a cube with different pin arrangements on each face. Besides that virtually the same.
Also found the Mazda service manual that walked through the process with torque specs and where to apply thread locker.
Parking brake still not addressed.
Powerstop kit? I just installed this yesterday. Great video.
you forgot to mention to release brake fluid cap before brake replacement. (when you push brake piston, brake level increase).
Your old pads were pretty stuck because of the rust that had formed behind the hardware. If you put some anti seize on the hardware area prior to putting on the hardware this will prevent rust from forming and help keep your pads moving freely.
Great video although I'm not sure putting anti-seize on the studs is a good idea.
Wouldn't recommend the red thread locker, with the proper torque applied to the bolts plus amount of heat generated by the brakes, it's highly unlikely the bolts will come lose. Use the temp thread locker (blue) instead of red if you want that added security, the red is just setting you up for headaches down the line.
Thanks for the informational video! Gonna change my brake pads and rotors this weekend. I may have missed it in the video but what are the torque specs on the bolts? Thanks in advance.
Really good video! Clear, concise, easy to follow. Thanks, you just saved me about $250! I'm subbed!
Thank you! We are very glad to hear it helped.
Nicely explained
Always make sure you dont damage the rotors that are getting thrown in the garbage anyway
Thank you so much for this mate !
this is a great video, thanks
IMPORTANT! Just to be aware that the lower sliding pin has a rubber sleeve on the it. Usually this pin will get stuck. Make sure you buy a replacement kit or a new rubber sleeve because in time this rubber sleeve will increase in volume and will get the pin stuck. Once you change the rubber sleeve, make sure you use a silicone based lubricant and not petroleum based grease/lubricant. Petroleum grease will lead to rubber sleeve to swell and the pin will get stuck, your pads and rotors might heat up and will wear down unevenly.
Some people remove the rubber sleeve and reinstall it without it. Not sure why calipers are over engineered. Some say it's to reduce brake vibration but I'm not sure if this is noticeable or not. If there is anyone out there with more knowledge on this particular matter, please let us know.
What is that part called ?
@@talon7691 the sleeve?
@@alexm2404 Yes does it have a part number or a more exact name? Thank you!
@@talon7691 don't know how is called, but you can find it if you look for the caliper repair kit.
@@talon7691 BRAKE CALIPER SLIDER PINS GUIDE KIT
small metal plates released from original brake pads. Not needed to put them on new pads, please?
Qq-no brake grease required on the brake pad end tips where it contacts the stainless steel shim clips?
Amazing review!👌
Awesome DIY, thank you. Please me, Numbers of parts used: pin boots, discs and pads?.
Thank you very much Master! Your video helped me a lot.
Great video
Thank you for watching!
Always a great reference when I do my 2015! How did you get the pads in so easily?? It always takes me 30 minutes or more to get the pads in with the hardware!
The brake pad hardware makes me annoyed with how much fiddling i have to do just to seat them. Everything else is no problemo
Good detailed useable video
Thumbs up and thanks for sharing.
Thank you! Glad it was of use to you.
Man, my rotor is stuck on even after beating it with a hammer. Any tips?
Would you ever do a video on replacing rear shocks? Can't find any videos on it!
Absolutely! We would like to do this soon on the 2016.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 I just did mine on the 2015,I definitely should've removed the coil; hope you guys go through it because I didn't feel safe doing it lol Keeping it jacked up and doing the lower nut first was a huge help.
Do you have the Torque specs for the rotor bolts.
Question - I know my brakes need replacing but I don't know how to figure out if its the front or the back brakes?
And also when compressing the piston use one of the old pads so that there is equal distribution of force on the piston ....you could damage the piston lip the way you did it...but good overall vid
Hello. Thank you for your sharing . Could you please tell me what SIZE your cup oil filter wrench is that you are using ?
To get your piston to go back inside, how do you do that with the ' electrical braking system ' that is now being placed on all Mazdas ? As mine is a 2018 Mazda 3 model.
What’s the torque spec mate on the bolts mate?
* Warning * - I came across this warning and took note of it on my computer. I don't know if it's verified as I'm not an engineer BUT since the "fix" is so easy to perform vs the potential damage , I will do it without hesitation.
* * * Before doing replacing brake pads read this:
Due to ABS System , before you compress the piston in the caliper you must open the bleed valve ( attach a plastic hose to a bottle ) . If you don't do this and compress the piston in the caliper , you can send back pressure and damage the ABS control module.
The average cost for an ABS Control Module Replacement is between $980 and $1,038. Labor costs are estimated between $107 and $135 while parts are priced between $873 and $903. This range does not include taxes and fees, and does not factor in your unique location. Related repairs may also be needed.
Do you really want to take a chance ?
Awesome video! Where did you get the rubber sleeves that goes over the bolt ~5:58. Thanks!
I have a 2018 Mazda 3 GT with the e-brake. Is changing the rear brakes the same procedure? Is there anything to be aware about the e-brake?
I am not sure as our vehicle doesn't have the electric parking brake. Sorry we couldn't help.
Torque specs?
Thank you nice work.
Front Caliper Pins: 19-22 ft/lbs
Front Caliper Bracket: 44-56 ft/lbs
Wheel Lug Nuts: 80-90 ft/lbs
If I googled that correctly...
Samuel Scheide thanks!
@@scheide717 thx
No!!! Those information is wrong!!
According to service manual page 2574, 2588, 2572, 2585:
Front Caliper Pins: 20-22ft/lbs (Rear Caliper Pins: 17-19 ft/lbs)
Front Caliper Bracket: 68-81 ft/lbs (Rear Caliper Bracket: 38-48 ft/lbs)
You can check on owner's manual for Wheel Lug Nuts specs:
Wheel Lug Nuts: 80-108 ft/lbs
I hope you didn't torque the bracket with 44 ft/lbs only.....................
Can anyone confirm what the actual torque specs are? I’m having trouble finding them
Is it necessary to bleed the brakes? Or does this small job just not require it, thanks! 🙂
Bleeding should not be needed. You only need to bleed the brakes if air made it into the lines and that shouldn't happen when doing a brake pad replacement since you aren't actually opening the system at all.
Is there anything I need to do in regards the handbrake for front pads?
Where did you get those drilled slotted rotors ?
Thanks for your help! What kind of grease do you use at 4:35?
That's Anti-Seize which isn't really a grease. It's used to prevent rust from sticking the rotor to the face of the wheel bearing.
I am struggling to push the piston back in. I used a piston compression tool but the piston resists. Any suggestion?
Temporarily remove your brake fluid reservoir cap in the engine compartment.
Great video thanks made in China brakes and Red corrosion not nice
Do you have one for the rear? Not sure what to do with the electronic brake on it.
We don't have a video for the rear yet. Unfortunately, if we make one for the rear it will not be on a car with the electric parking brake. I recommend checking some forums to learn the differences in the process. Good luck!
Cant shift those bolts. State of my slider pins. Full of rust.
As much as I believe in antiseize" 💥 I wouldn't put antiseize on the studs if I were you !!! 😵
I haven't encountered any issues but I highly recommend you use a torque wrench to tighten lug bolts to spec.
How many ft lbs torque on the caliper bracket and slider bolts and is that spec good for all 3rd gen mazda 3?
75 ft lbs on the big bolts and 24 on the small bolts
Pushing the piston in can be a c unt!
I’m a female and I’m about to do this on my own watching this tutorial (wish me luck) 😂
How did you get on Sassy ?
I'm doing this tomorrow - don't expect any issues but you can never be sure :)
S Touring Japonés o Mexicano?... hay diferencia en el N° de parte.
I am not sure if the parts are the same between Japan and Mexico variants. Type your exact VIN into a parts supplier to be sure you get the correct part.
Hello, Where can i get the anti rattle clips?
I would try Rock Auto.
But lots of pads come with them.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 thank you so much!
Tip:
wear nitrile gloves if you’re worried about oils getting on the brake system.
Mountain dew!!!!! ewwwwwwww I'll take the crab juice
Nice vid...but u didn't see you bleed the system
Thank you! There is no need to bleed the system unless air makes it's way in. That should not happen in a routine pad replacement.
@@steveandthemilkman1311 you arewelcome bro. I did my 2016 Mazda 2 disc pads just two weeks back I must say it was easier than changing my wife's 2011 Nissan Bluebird
Your hubs is new and shiny, your disks ands are god. So replacement seems unnecessary.