Відео

Good luck with your brewing and thanks for sharing your thoughts. I tend to think that Lutra is a good replacement for a "clean ale" strain like Chico/US-05, but it is much more temperature tolerant. If you can keep the beer temps at 15C, there are plenty of Lager yeasts that will produce very good Lagers. The same for Ales at 19C to 20C.

I have seen some people try something like this with good results. I am usually not coordinated enough to manage pitching directly onto a yeast cake. With the price of liquid yeast packs these days, it feels good to at least get 2 or 3 batches out of a pack.

Good luck! I am not sure where my "spicket" pronunciation came from...maybe it is a mid-west US thing? I tend to make 1 gallon extract based batches for things like trying out a new hop or a yeast. I find that 2.5 gal all-grain batches are a good balance between effort and the amount of beer produced. 5 gal batches are good for recipes and styles that I know I will like, but 5 gallons can be a lot of beer to go through for me.

I suspect the dunk sparge like I did would get a little better efficiency, but I have not tried a pour over sparge. Adding some DME to the boil is likely the easiest way to squeeze out larger batches.

@@CascadesHomebrew I watched The Apartment Brewer do a batch BIAB and instead of lifting up the bag, he just opened the tap to a boil kettle. At this point one can easily sparge or even hold back some for a decoction. After all is drained the bag will be easy to lift out. I plan to either put a tap in my 5 gal pot or do this when I can get a bigger pot.

I also heard that news. I think that produce Belle for professional still, but no longer for homebrewers. Mangrove Jack M29 French Saison is likely very similar if you can get that. I don't think I have tried that yeast.

Thanks for the info. I have not been following the Anchor story recently, but hopefully we see Anchor Steam back on the market.

@@CascadesHomebrew Yep, same they were one of my favorite breweries I cant drink beer anymore due to celiac disease unless i brew all grain gluten free but its not the same. Anchor was always great at helping out the homebrew community

This video focuses on breaking down and cleaning a keg after it is emptied. Before filling a keg I sanitize all my transfer equipment and fill the keg using a StarSan solution. I push out that solution with CO2 to remove oxygen then do a closed transfer into the keg. See: ua-cam.com/video/qs1f369QcLA/v-deo.html

Over the years I have tried hops loose, in bags, or in a hop spider. I don't have a strong opinion. I see you commented on my other video, but I would say 1) sparging is a good way to push up your batch size a little 2) using extract is likely the easiest way to get a "full sized batch" from a smaller kettle and 3) for lower gravity beers you can make a concentrated wort that you dilute with water in the fermenter.

@@CascadesHomebrew Because sparging added more water, next batch I will use less water to start. The extra hot water made it impossible to get the temperature down just from topping up with cold water. So next batch with a mash, I plan to use at least a liter less water to start, and add that liter doing a sparge/rinse of the grains. There was lots left in the grains. Squeezing will not get it all out. About the squeeze, again. My kit has a muslin "bag" for the grains to steep in. This cloth has rather large holes. Squeezing this would not push out any fines as they already worked their way out into the mash. From what I have been learning from many doing BIAB, the nice cloth BIAB bags have much finer holes. In fact many suggest milling the grains finer, for BIAB process. Most also suggest not squeezing the bag. This makes sense to me as a fine mesh will contain the fine particles. Squeezing this kind of bag may push the fines out through, just like what happened with some extracts I made. Pushed the fines through my paper coffee filters. I have a proper thermometer on order so I don't mess up the yeast pitching temp. again. Likely my temperature for the mash was incorrect as well. I thought my candy thermometer would do, but I now think it is not accurate. Does not read room temp. correctly, soooo.

I am a proponent of organic foods, but too bad there seems to be very little options for organic brewing ingredients (barley, wheat, oats, hops, etc.). Good luck with your attempts to grow your own. For your well water, it might be good to boil it the day before and let it cool. If you are in the US, Wards Labs is a company often used by brewers for water analysis.

@@CascadesHomebrew Thank you. I was hoping to avoid boiling a big pot or two of water, and then cooling it, but you are correct, that should work to be certain my well water is sterile. It may even be a good idea to get started on that ASAP. The rest of the gear I needed to start my brew arrived today, WHILE I was in a room setting up an elevated temperature controlled fermentation clear plastic "tent" over a big box, turned on its' side, sitting on a sturdy table, with a small radiant heater under the table ;-) Reinforced with Tuck Tape lol I will need to check the cooled down, preboiled water, as this may have precipitated calcium from the water, lowering its' PH. Two birds, one stone??? We shall see lol

@@CascadesHomebrew Not in the US. Canada. Boiling did not reduce the PH much, though I suspect it will if I boil long enough, since calcium sticks inside my kettle if not filtered. It was taking too long to cool my boiled water so I ended up using straight well water. This process, and an inaccurate temporary thermometer caused me to pitch my yeast too soon...or too warm. I got a really fast fermentation for a day and a half, then it seemed to be finished. Still trying to get a constant even temperature, but that warm start could have ruined the batch. I racked to a carboy. There was plenty of sediment in the bottom of the brew bucket. I saved a jar of sediment, added some sugar, and placed it in the room with my wood stove. The yeast is still very much alive. I put this jar in my fridge...for experimentation. I was not seeing any bubbles from the air lock on my carboy, so I added some sugar dissolved in water, and gave it a shake. Within 15 minutes I could see increasing bubbling, and it formed a new head. This only lasted about 12 hours and then stopped again. Seems clear that this was just the added sugar fermenting, So it seems like my brew has finished fermenting very fast, too fast. Should I bottle ASAP? Give it a couple days, a week? This is/was an expensive partial mash and malt Porter kit. Hoping it will still be good to drink.

@@CascadesHomebrew Some organic grown grains like oats can be obtained in health stores.

Good luck! Yeah, it seems to be a style that requires just a touch of flavor/character, but also has very little to cover up any flaws.

I would agree. This recipe is more of an American Pale Ale that has a light haze due to the Oats, Voss yeast and Hops (though the percentage of Oats and the amount of hops are both modest). The first iteration of this recipe used US-05 and had Crystal malt instead of Munich.

Good question. Overall, I doubt it matters much. Additions with volatile flavors, such as spices or honey, are added at the end of the boil to preserve aromatics. I suspect any volatile compounds have been boiled off in the creation of the syrup. I theory, the higher gravity wort from adding the sugar early might produce more caramelization or Maillard reactions during the boil, but I suspect that is limited. Note, I have also seen recommendations to add simple sugars into the fermenter. I have done that once for a Quad, but again, I doubt it matters much.

One source I read said that a typical 5 gallon fermentation produces almost 2 lbs of CO2!

@@CascadesHomebrew I believe it, I was burning through tanks before I started using co2 capture

It will depend a bit on the recipe and the amount, but yes, higher protein grains like oats can contribute to haze. Cheers!

What styles do you use it for?

@@CascadesHomebrew Usually for pseudo lagers. Omega Yeast has a decent recipe for a Helles pseudo lager that I've brewed a few times, and Dr. Hans Brewery here on UA-cam has a couple videos for recipes using Lutra that have all turned out very well when I brewed them.

Glad you enjoyed the video. Each time I have used Lutra, there was a "twang" that settled down after 2 or 3 weeks of packaging. From then, it has a citrus character that lingers at a lower level. I suspect the judges identified some of the Lutra character as coming from hop additions. Maybe soon I will give Lutra a try in a hoppy style like a Pale Ale.

It would have been valuable to compare the pH. I did not, partially because the probe on my pH meter needs to be replaced again. When I checked the pH in my US-05 vs Voss vs Lutra video, all 3 beers were very close in pH.

This is where I am leaning as a best fit for Lutra, as a very neutral ale strain when you are not looking for yeast character. Since Kveik strains are so flexible with temperatures, I can turn around a beer in a few weeks even if my fermentation chamber is tied up.

I typically add yeast nutrient when using Kveik strains, mostly just because I have read that advice. I usually have a vial of Wyeast nutrient on hand that I use.

Let me know how it turns out. I am working on a Lutra video. I fermented a 5 gallon batch of Helles with a lager yeast and 2.5 gallons with Lutra. It was in the keg in less than a week and tasting pretty good after another 2 weeks in the keg.

Glad it was helpful! I have not brewed many 1 gallon batches lately. I find that 2.5 gal batches are a sweet spot for me. They are easy to brew on my stove and it is enough beer to share if it turns out, but not enough that it takes months to drink up.

I'm currently on my 2nd 1gal brew (presents from my kids). Making the house smell like a brewery just before bedtime 😂. I will sleep well tonight

Good question. Starting a UA-cam channel is one way to encourage brewing different styles! Getting into competitions and the Master Homebrewer Program has pushed me toward brewing a bigger variety. My local club also often has informal competitions for a set of styles. The online club "The Brü Club" also picks a style each quarter they encourage members to brew. I tend to prefer brewing Hoppy American Ales, Belgian Ales, and the occasional Porter or Stout. Even that gives me 20+ styles I could brew.

My understanding is that traditional Norway brewing often made fairly large batches (often for a special event). The yeast was pitched while the wort was still warm. The large mass and heat from fermentation kept it warm during the few days of fermentation. But yeah, it is a little odd that a yeast like this did not come from the tropics. I have used Voss several times at warm room temperatures. It seems that you get more orange esters as you push the temps warmer...say 65F vs 75F vs 85F.

@@CascadesHomebrew I am doing 5 gallons of straight mead with it right now at current kitchen temperature which is roughly 75-85 degrees. It's calmly ripping through it. I kept reading about how people wrap the jug and put it in the sun. Then I figured that this yeast is just pitched at temperatures that would kill other yeasts, and it kicked off sooner with a head start at the higher temperatures..

Yes, Kveik yeast can be treated just like a standard ale yeast when it comes to bottling (at least in my experience).

Well, hopefully you learned some tips from the video!

I am not quite sure about the question. A digital radiator would likely help to keep a cool area warm for fermentation. Ideally you would be measuring the temperature of the beer to account for heat generated during fermentation, where I would assume the radiator would be measuring the ambient air. I think you would have better luck using a seedling mat and a temp controller, but give the radiator a try. Just make sure you are using it in a safe way (that it does not get too hot, that the area is not too damp, etc.).

I am glad you enjoyed the video. You should be able to get some info on NOVA Homebrew at novahomebrew.org/. They meet at Old Ox on the 3rd Monday at 7:30. There are several other Northern Virginia homebrew clubs as well, such as Wort Hogs, HOWL, 50 West, and a few more.

The video? Hopefully I have improved my quality over the last 3 years. Cheers! 🍻

Thanks for watching. I checked and I had the correct spelling (Mariposa Street) when the beer was on tap at the brewery. Opps.

I have heard that it is very good fresh on draft. I mostly recall getting bottles here on the east coast (and a 6-pack of cans most recently). I am also curious if something in their process adds color. With the addition of the 130 SRM Extra Special Malt, my beer was about the exact same color as Anchor Steam. Thanks for watching!

They carbonated the beer with adding wort to the tanks and letting it referment in tank and carbonate naturally then they cold crashed it to clarify and then bottled directly out of tank. Color comes from the fact that they did a triple stepped Decoction mash

Thanks! I have been brewing and I have more content I want to edit into videos (and ideas for future videos) but just have been a little extra busy this year. Mostly busy in good ways though.

I got literally 2 points under max possible score one year at NHC for a vienna lager. I nailed that recipe and thats pretty much the beer i brew better than anyone else.

It sounds like they might come back. It seems hard for breweries to compete in the US on a core set of brands. We seem to have the crowd that drinks only Bud/Miller/Coors, or the craft beer drinkers that chase trendy styles and new releases.

You can check out this American IPA recipe. A version won a gold medal at a regional competition. www.cascadeshomebrew.com/recipes/westover-ipa/

I purchased all my fermenters with the spigot and the spigot hole punched.

I generally mash for 60 minutes. I don't think the batch size has much impact on mash length.