I took a gallon to a Christmas party, so the keg is feeling quite light already! Luckily, I just kegged an American Porter that should keep something dark on tap for a bit longer. Cheers!
It is a good question. Better understanding additions for RO is something I want to learn more about. My high level advice would be to use brewing software and target a "brown/black malty" profile. Target Calcium in the 50 to 100 range, Chloride around 100, and Sulfate in the 30 to 50 range. For my 2.5 gal batch, that would be around 1g Gypsum, and 3g Calcium Chloride. Also about 3g Baking Soda for pH adjustment. Double those amounts for a 5 gal/19 L batch.
Glad to see you had success as well. I am curious how more bitterness would change the character. I usually let style guidelines drive bitterness, and my recipe is on the upper end of American Stout for gravity but the very low end for bitterness. The style range is 35 to 75.
Yes I am. The recipe for that brew was based off the batched I brewed in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Dt_kAx9K6A0/v-deo.html Are you in the Northern Virginia area?
Excellent video! I always prefered my stouts finishing a little sweet, as I believe caramel malts are often over hated. If interested, do you think you could cover the Omega Sundew yeast strain in a stout/porter type beer in comparison to a more traditionally American/English strain? I always thought a bit of fruitiness was really needed in a good stout!
I am glad you enjoyed the video. Looking at the description of Omega Sundew, I could see possibilities of using that yeast in a beer like a stout. I am lots of beers planned already, but maybe sometime in the future I can give that yeast a try.
Dark and crystal malt lower the pH. Holding the dark grains to end of mash (just prior to mashout) or only in sparge can help prevent a drop during the mash and lowers the potential off astringency too. Adding these grains later protects the enzymes in the mash for saccharification.
I have not tried that method. My dark beers improved when I started adjusting my mash pH to account for the acidic nature of dark grains and crystal malts. I do find that software is pretty good about predicting acid additions and pH for light colored beers, but not so much with predicting pH for dark beers.
Looks and sounds like a fantastic winter beer! Cheers 🍻
I took a gallon to a Christmas party, so the keg is feeling quite light already! Luckily, I just kegged an American Porter that should keep something dark on tap for a bit longer. Cheers!
nice i live right near treehouse
I will try this recipe.
Great video.
Thanks, good recipe!
I love watching your brewing videos. What changes to water chemistry would you do if I used grocery store RO water or distilled water?
It is a good question. Better understanding additions for RO is something I want to learn more about. My high level advice would be to use brewing software and target a "brown/black malty" profile. Target Calcium in the 50 to 100 range, Chloride around 100, and Sulfate in the 30 to 50 range. For my 2.5 gal batch, that would be around 1g Gypsum, and 3g Calcium Chloride. Also about 3g Baking Soda for pH adjustment. Double those amounts for a 5 gal/19 L batch.
I've brewed a 5 gallon batch, and it was my best stout so far. I personally would like to try with a little more bitterness tough.
Glad to see you had success as well. I am curious how more bitterness would change the character. I usually let style guidelines drive bitterness, and my recipe is on the upper end of American Stout for gravity but the very low end for bitterness. The style range is 35 to 75.
@@CascadesHomebrew mine ended with 35 IBUs. I think that probably around 40 IBU might balance the beer to my taste.
i see that Dynasty west coast pils in the background... amazing beer! are you a Wort Hogs member?
Yes I am. The recipe for that brew was based off the batched I brewed in this video: ua-cam.com/video/Dt_kAx9K6A0/v-deo.html Are you in the Northern Virginia area?
Yes, Fairfax area - GRiST club@@CascadesHomebrew
Yeah! Im part of GRiST in Arlington@@CascadesHomebrew
Excellent video! I always prefered my stouts finishing a little sweet, as I believe caramel malts are often over hated. If interested, do you think you could cover the Omega Sundew yeast strain in a stout/porter type beer in comparison to a more traditionally American/English strain? I always thought a bit of fruitiness was really needed in a good stout!
I am glad you enjoyed the video. Looking at the description of Omega Sundew, I could see possibilities of using that yeast in a beer like a stout. I am lots of beers planned already, but maybe sometime in the future I can give that yeast a try.
Dark and crystal malt lower the pH. Holding the dark grains to end of mash (just prior to mashout) or only in sparge can help prevent a drop during the mash and lowers the potential off astringency too. Adding these grains later protects the enzymes in the mash for saccharification.
I have not tried that method. My dark beers improved when I started adjusting my mash pH to account for the acidic nature of dark grains and crystal malts. I do find that software is pretty good about predicting acid additions and pH for light colored beers, but not so much with predicting pH for dark beers.
Your hands! Your hands! Leave them sit...Please.