Відео

This is 10 series from 8020.net

Hi. You will need to know what voltage you are working with and use appropriate wires, switches, and outlets that meet your need.

Hi. What do you mean?

Glad you enjoyed it!

thanks for the feedback, hope you got it figured out, I love these lever nuts

Glad it helped!

I believe all mine came from the Explorist.life site.

I think you mean this part a.co/d/hs25Dfj and it was something like this, not this exact one, and I cut off the female end so I could have access to the wires (copper).

Good luck!

@@VanTransitions I did it, but it was a different situation :/ good luck

I appreciate the feedback. No superiority complex here. Just sharing my experiences. :)

Perhaps so, but when you're in the moment, you have to use what your brain gives you, haha! Sometimes there is only 1 good way, sometimes there are several ways.

You are referring to section 5.4.8 here www.victronenergy.com/upload/documents/Lynx_Smart_BMS/109358-Lynx_Smart_BMS-pdf-en.pdf which is perfectly fine. I didn't feel like cutting the ring terminals off, lazy I guess, haha! The MPII case ground is on the neg bus middle post of the Lynx Distributor. It is not one of the 4 fused posts on that bus.

In my case they are below the plane of the top of all my solar panels. It doesn't mean wind doesn't get to them, but I don't hear them at all. I do hear a noise created by the dynamics of sound resonance with the rear wheels between 63-71 mph. Once I put Thinsulate and heavy mass vinyl over the rear wheel wells, and get my walls up, I'll have a relatively quiet ride.

You're very welcome!

This is true, those holes are there, however, there is no flat surface on the roof around those holes to place the wire gland itself, not of this style anyway.

@@VanTransitions That's why you use Butyl Sealant Tape to even it out and level it.

Yes, that is an option. Please be mindful you are near the water channels on the roof and you don't want to disrupt that flow. Or, folks like Far Out Ride made a grommet special made for those holes, $50 last I checked so kind of expensive in my opinion.

You're welcome

Thanks!

In what way? Do you have a code reference?

How would an inspector even know lol?

I'm sorry I disagree. I mean, if you're stacking 3/4" to 1" of washers so the motor clears the wire I'd say that's unsafe. If you have a regular/standard seat, not the 10-way powered seat, you can install the Scopema, but I'd still be impressed if you could do it without modification to the plastic. Can you reference how you did this without cutting required? Keep in mind UA-cam won't let you paste a link in your comment so get creative.

I haven't used it very much, but it works so far. I can't compare it to other units, no experience with them.

Not in what you see here. I may add one in the future, and it's not a bad idea in case someone wants to try to mess with your electric system by accessing the exterior outlet.

Sounds great!

To get the correct roof adapter, DIYVan has offerings for different locations on the roof. Select the one which best fits your location. I'm sure they can help you get the correct one.

My fan is in the furthest forward spot on the Transit roof, btw. :) My RTX 2000 is in the furthest rear bay of an extended length Transit.

That is a good copy!!! Thanks​@@VanTransitions

​@@VanTransitionsohh good to know. You said that you have an RTX2000 A/C. Can you use it while the van is running or only with the battery bank? I asked you because I will install a 3 seats bench for my girls because I think the front A/C is not strong enought to get to the rear bench.

Thanks! I'm trying to make these instructional/useful. Entertainment is secondary, haha!

Thanks! Glad you like them!

With a Scopema swivel on a 10-way powered seat, as you can see in the video, you must lift the seat with risers to clear the seat motor, and it still requires the plastic to be trimmed. I have decided using risers is dangerous and not worth the risk. In the follow-up video I use an Amazing Auto swivel. It is thicker, clears the motor with no issue and you would still have to trim the plastic, though not as much. I have heard in non-powered seats, the plastic trim is much smaller so perhaps trimming is not needed on those? I do not know.

You're welcome. I left everything disconnected until the core electric system was installed in the van. Up to this point it had not been installed. I'm a bit behind on new content having been on a few trips mid build. Once the core system, including the solar disconnect switch, was in place between the panels and the MPPTs, I made the M4 connections on the roof. If the M4 connections were plugged in on the roof, there was a potential for shock if the panels weren't fully covered blocking the sun. Once the internal wires were connected to the solar disconnect, this was no longer a worry.

You can also see I covered the ends of the wires inside the van as an additional level of safety to prevent the copper pos and neg wires from touching each other.

My video is based on running a 12V system. Wire size requirements will be different if you are running 48V. If you want to ensure you are on the right path, please engage your Victron dealer or a certified electrician.

Wrong based on what set of facts and standards?

The wire from the solar disconnect to the MPPT units is 10/2 ancor marine wire. There are no ring terminals used for the 10awg wires on either side of the solar disconnect.

10/3 refers to 10awg wire, 3 of them in the combined outer sheath. In the USA, this is hot, neutral, ground for 120V AC. 10/2 would contain 2 x 10awg wires, positive and negative, usually in a DC scenario.

@@VanTransitions tried to comment but it seems it was removed, maybe because I linked to Lowe’s. At any rate, 10/2 in America is most definitely 3 wires. Neutral, hot, and ground. This can be easily googled and is probably known by anyone before they even step foot in electrician school.

UA-cam removes links from commenters by default, not within my control, part of their spam prevention I believe. Here is some 12/2 I use for some of my 12V DC loads. It is definitely 2 wire of 12awg within the same sheath. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUYBU2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_QM9XP37H7VK89FSADRDT and here is some 12/3 www.amazon.com/dp/B000NV2AVS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_493MDXT1YJ1VXRN6SSH7

You may be thinking of romex? Which contains solid wires and the additional bare copper for ground. Romex is NOT recommended in a van (which is a moving earthquake), only stranded.

@@VanTransitions after a little more googling, it seems marine grade wiring is different than residental. residental romex 12/2 includes a ground, but your ancor marine wire does not. interesting indeed.

In my van based system, my chassis ground is 4/0 matching the largest wires in my system. 6awg seems small, but I don't know the size of your system and I'm not an electrical engineer. If your components are Victron, work with your distributor, or consult an electrician.

@@VanTransitionsthank you

Thank you! Cheers!

You're welcome!

You're very welcome

Puoi farlo! Potresti farlo se desideri aggiungere isolamento alla porta o cambiare gli altoparlanti audio con quelli che suonano meglio.

I'm not sure what you are referring to. There are no elastic fasteners. What time stamp in the video? Could you describe what you see a bit more?

This level of engineering is not for me. The people at 8020 have the solution perfected and for the number of 45 degree angles I will use, I'm happy to buy them pre-fab. Best of luck!

Interesting idea. I cannot imagine no aluminum dust even with self tapping when you back them out. I'm happy with the threads from my tap tool.

Hi. The battery to battery cable is 4/0 (4 ought). At that short length there is virtually no flex at all in the wire. My batteries are also locked down and do not move in any direction.

Exactly my point…”there is no flex at all in the wire”, therefore the cable and terminal lugs are constantly under stress with each other and will vibrate loose over time, UNLESS your batteries are 100% rigidly fixed to one another. I’m not confident this can ever be the case in a mobile scenario. A slight bend will relieve this inherent stress. You’re fine in an off grid fixed setup…but not in a mobile application.

While a well put together system should not have this problem in general, yes, a van is a moving earthquake, and therefore ANY person having a house system in their van should have a regularly scheduled interval to check on all wiring and bolts to ensure healthy, tight, clean connections.

Hi. I am not building any dual switch circuits in my van, at least I don't think I will be. So, while I'd rather not send you to another channel, this Explorist.Life video is exactly what you need: ua-cam.com/video/WRQuVMFlric/v-deo.html

I jumped on the 8020 web site and the drill jigs there are in the $30 range.

Yes, I was going to recommend going to 8020.net direct.

Overall sound advice. As I explained, I had the wire so I used it with black heat shrink - and it's my system ultimately, so I know and that's what matters. If it were building this for someone else, yes, stick with the correct color at all times.

You're welcome. I do not think this particular switch can be used on a two way circuit. Here is a link to the product: a.co/d/fHEgWrW

What is wfco? I think the device came with both 12V and 24V hookup cables. In my case, I have a 12V system and connected it using the 12V cable set.

Thank you. I suppose that's what we have to deal with having the powered seats. Basic seats are far easier and can use a much more slim swivel. Glad you got it working.

Hi. I believe I ordered from ULine. If you are anywhere close to central NC, I have 15+ unused sheets, happy to give you some.

Sure, a drop of automatic trans fluid would work great, but then all your metal flakes won't come out as they will be held in by the liquid. Suggestions on that aspect?

​@@VanTransitionsI don't like using tapping fluid because of the mess it creates. If I'm tapping steel - sure. Aluminum is softer, I'm sure the tap would be fine. I do however clear the shavings by rotation the tap half a turn counter clockwise every second turn or so. I've been using a drill for tapping for years. Slow speed. Low clutch setting. Letting the tap guide the angle.

For me the MP II is grounded to the Lynx Distributor which grounds the entire system to the van chassis. You can see that here ua-cam.com/video/myLpukMa35E/v-deo.html 24V and 12V don't play well together without voltage conversion so you will need to know how your trailer/camper existing 12V lights and electric system are configured to know if there will be any interference, especially if both are grounded to the same chassis.

Thank you!