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Thank you so much!!!!! This is basically my only UA-cam comment ever and I can't even tell you how grateful I am for the simple solve to our problem. We were stranded with our camper trailer at the start of our epic camping trip, trying every thing we could think of for a couple hours and we were about to have to call a tow and give up. Boom! That was the issue!

Oil all over the socket and plugs when removing. I do 10k oil interval changes with full synthetic and baldwin filters. Never low on the dipstick, car has 175k on the clock now.

Great video! I was able to fix my used car that I bought. The previous owner said that all the seats quit working on the same day. This was the problem. Thank you!

The website used in the video does not work anymore. Here is the new link: mygarage.honda.com/s/radio-nav-code

Timing is a bit off, but the sequence is correct. Thank you so much, short sweet and to the point!

0:55 which nuts?

Thank you for the video! I just pulled out the blower motor for the ac and accidentally unplugged the exact thing you showed on the passenger side. Wouldn't crant or anything after putting everything back in. Found this video and found my error!

Great video and love the detail!

Did you make that video how to diagnose?

Thanks man very helpful

Perfect!! Easy to understand, easy to do... thank you for your no nonsense approach getting right to it. I got the part from your link and it took about as long as your video to fix. 👍👍👍👍👍

THATS A VERY PROSSIONAL PRESENTATION !

Done deal...did the work at home in my garage ( it is raining a lot outside), it was actually easier than I thought, it took me 45 minutes to do it by myself, the worst was that top screw...pain to remove it, but once that is done, PEACE of CAKE...tested on highway speed, boosted pretty high and no fault anymore. THANKS A LOT AGAIN.

Excellent video, thanks a lot, really really appreciated it. Will try doing that at home, as I already purchased the recirculation valve. Cheers

Well done with good details and important steps to insure success.

u r a great fucking guy straight to the point

What’s the kit called to replace all that

Did the exact same change with the exact same part. Didnt take long. Sprayed it all down with brake cleaner. There were 2 leaks. One at th nleft side banjo. Amd another on the seal of that block the hose is connected to. Can that block? Be changed. Idk what its called

2013 Ford F-150 EcoBoost with 225k miles on the odometer isn't starting. The parking light on dash in not illuminated when turning the key onto the on position. No gear lights are illuminated at all. Cabin has power and all assesories appear to be working. I’m thinking the problem is the neutral safety switch underneath the truck that’s attached onto the transmission. Or the park brake switch on center shifter. The dash lights come on, but there's no cranking, just a click when attempting to start. Battery is showing a full charge. The starter is functional as it spins when power is applied directly but engine not turning over. All fuses and relays have been checked. The low oil pressure sensor was replaced a month ago without subsequent issues. There's also a clicking sound from the engine area when the truck is off and the hood is up. Coming from one of the vct solenoids. When the pcm relay is removed the sound disappears. It’s like a clicking sound. Not sure if this is the issue or not. What could be the problem? Starting systems fault, engine overheat and low oil pressure lights on dash.

You made this look easy so I'm going to give it a go.

Well done, sir! I appreciate how thorough you were with your techniques, especially when including checking all the other items involved while one is already there to do the oil change. It is a GREAT way to check all the MAJOR components of a car, while just waiting for the oil to drain. Also, I liked how you went back to the "old skool" oil-filter-wrench method of removing this oil filter instead of having to find and use a 36mm socket (which I've already bought - no worries. lol) You've covered EVERYTHING, including the RESET button on the dash, AND went back to address and fix the leaking washer fluid issue. I might add a few things for the DIY home-mechanic: the air-filter could be sucked clean for the most part with a high-suction vaccuum if the customer has one. We have a Dyson which does pretty damn well, so I just popped indoors after slamming it flat against the side-walk a few times. If you've bought your Audi used, you might be lucky and find that the previous owner splurged for a re-usable/washable air filter which can save you some money in the long run. Either way, checking and cleaning or replacing this is the FIRST STEP in evaluating ANY sluggishness or slowing down or just overall lower-than-usual-or-expected performance from your Audi. Another trick I use, now is that I stock-up on bottles of Octane Boost AND Fuel Injector Cleaner from my local Dollar Store or Dollar Tree, etc for $1.25 each and use them with every OTHER fill-up. We just bought our A4 2.0T Quattro, and I've noticed a difference, progressively. I don't think its previous owner used premium gas NOR any additives, ever before. I'm sure our lil baby appreciates it a whole lot! Another trick I've learned over the years is to inflate the tires to the TIRE'S recommended MAXIMUM PSI. This gives you MAXIMUM performance PLUS MAXIMUM MILEAGE out of them. A LOT of times the MFR's recommended PSI is MUCH LOWER than what the tires are rated at. If they differ opt to go with the lowest maximum of the four for safety reasons. This is all I have for now. I'll add more, later! Thanks!

is everything basically the same for the 2013 F150 Lariat? If so I'm pulling the seat out this weekend to verify.

Just add text to the part where you were incorrect about the clips! Thanks for the video but now I have to take off one of wheels and redo it.

Best video seen..thanks

Dose it apply on the 2016 model? Same thing or other way?

This works

Did you end up with a vibration when the clitch was engaged after the install?

Thanks for this vid. My daughter is learning to drive in my f150. My wife tends to use that panel as an invisible brake causing that harness to come loose. After a few hours of looking at harnesses and fuses I came across your video and bingo 👍 wish I knew a good local mechanic like you

Simple and to the point Very helpful

Great tutorial! You saved me, at least, an hour.

Old but gold! Thank you!

Dude! I owe you a lot right now… was going to tow her to the dealership tomorrow but then I came across you video. you think I would’ve noticed that wiring harness, I’ve been in and out of that fuse box for the past two weeks but that’s what it was and my headache instantly went away. thank you dude!!! genuinely, thank you.

And hey thank you sir

Please leave any comment for my brother here This really helps him Smash button also pretty please thanks so much

my 2002 chevy Silverado 2500 HD 6.0 had a bad pully so I thought? and it broke the ac belt. ac on high sounded like a wheel bearing it was loud, so I turned it off the noise went away, I replaced the ac pully and belt, and it seemed find and again the noise came back, and the ac pully was moving erratically, this only seems to happen on 4 or 5 fan speed! does this mean a bad bearing and or clutch?

Is it possible to rebuild that outside boot without taking the whole axle out?

If you want to make this easier, just use doorman part number 614-003 unifit boot and cut it to size when done . You will save HOURS using a unifit boot, you just need the special tool to stretch it out.

This was helpful! Thank you! Exact same issue with mine, now I can get my lift gate open to pull the panel off. Thank you!!

I’m looking to get some more info cannot find much online. I have the clutch with the 3 weights on it instead of the 1 solid balance weight on it. Having a hard time finding something that matches the part on the truck. Are there two difference a/c clutches for the 2001 1500? Wanna make sure before I buy the wrong part on accident. I’m buying a complete kit (clutch, pulley, coil) so not sure if it will even make a difference there. If you have facebook or any other social media let me know I can always send pictures.

Thank you for the very detailed description of how to do this.

How do you know it’s the clutch

How do i hot wire the compressor to check to see if clutch is bad. I bought truck with no belt on ac and guy told me it worked. I put new belt on and still no ac. I checked to see what the pressure was and it reads very high pressure, i think thats because the clutch isnt kicking on or maybe it has to much freon. Any help would be appreciated.

Everything went good until i stripped one of the bolts now i cant get the part out

Would that affect my dash lights My dash lights won't go on and the car is in lock, I keep using a key to press the button to unlock but dash lights won't go on.

Worked great, thank you 😊

If you think I'm removing my tires to do this, you're insane. Lol UPDATE: Took 45 min, TIRES ON, NO LIFT. all you need to do is turn the front tires to give you the room to drill. And if using Phillips screws get a tiny socket-ratchet with a Phillips head. REAR TIRES, all you need to do is grab a trusty pair of pliers, from the inside of the rear fender, you'll see the 3 punched out plastic keepers holding the push pins in place, grab, twist pull (then push through the hole) for the drilling part, unnecessary, use your screw and Phillips ratchet, drive it through the plastic, apply appropriate clips, then install. Easy, peasy.

Your video was awesome man- as a diy guy for years I’ve watched hundreds of videos and your is in the top 1 percent- audio, video, knowledge, and pacing - thank you!

My ac makes no noise at all it throws cold air when driving but when at idle it’s not cool but warm cool by changing this would it work it’s a 03 Yukon

Fantastic video. Thanks for your excellent tutorial. For those with 2wd trucks, this procedure is even easier as the entire thing can be accomplished easily from underneath the vehicle without removing anything but the belt.

Incredible! Thanks