Good video, yes 95ft lbs on my 2010 dodge charger as well. Had clunking too but I would replace the sway bar bushings first if you got slight clunking…. Then I did my inner and outter tie rods which was my main problem …. Lastly I did my sway bar end links to complete the front end suspension. Lower and upper ball joints are needed to be replaced but waiting a little longer on that since I gotta take everything off lol😂 good accurate video !
I have a 2014 2wd Chrysler 300 I don’t have a jack or lift I do have ramps I used for oil changes is there tension on the sway bar links or can I replace the links with the car just being on the ramps?
Word to the wise. Don’t order cheap parts. I bought amazon parts to do this job, but I knew eventually I’ll have to replace it with oem or better quality sway bar links. After 4 months and retightening the nuts (they loosen overtime if you don’t retorque them after 500 miles) I figure I’d get Quality sway bar links. I purchased duralast from autozone and this could be done without removing the tire. I used lots of loc tight this tight so the nut wouldn’t loosen because not sure why they would become loose overtime . But anytime you work on suspension I believe after 500-1000 miles, you should retorque all the suspension parts you replaced/fixed.
Oh no. See if there is warranty and then do the new ones to 50 ft lbs or where you feel it's tight enough. 95 is what the computer said. Better humane then lawful. 😉
@@AutoTechWorld_DIYlol I’m not skinny and I weigh about 250 lol😂 I did this job 3 times already using cheap Amazon parts, but 4th time, I use auto zone duralast parts and lots of Loc Tight due to but becoming loose on the last ones, and I raised the car enough so I wouldn’t have to take the tire off lol😂😂😂 And my car is lower then the 300, I did this on my dodge charger 😂
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Thank you. I never knew why they never line up. I did not know counterbalance was the issue
The more you know 😉
This definitely needs more views ! Most helpful video out there when it comes to this. Thanks for the help bro!
Your welcome. I wouldn't mind more views Haha. Have fun fixing your car
Thank you for this excellent, well produced video. Everything explained so well, I feel confident I can now do this repair. Thanks and cheers
Thank you. Yes you can. Have fun.
Quick and to the point. Thanks!
That was the goal. Thanks for watching.
Good video, yes 95ft lbs on my 2010 dodge charger as well. Had clunking too but I would replace the sway bar bushings first if you got slight clunking…. Then I did my inner and outter tie rods which was my main problem …. Lastly I did my sway bar end links to complete the front end suspension. Lower and upper ball joints are needed to be replaced but waiting a little longer on that since I gotta take everything off lol😂 good accurate video !
Thank you very much.
So use fronts for the rear as well? I'm over here trying to find rears and having a miserable time
Hey there. Thanks for watching. Check out these. They should work for the rear:
amzn.to/3XKlLH2
Did the customer drive through a thumbtack spill on the way to your shop? 1:08
What do you mean?
I think he is referring to the studs on the tires, maybe he is from a warmer climate that doesn't use them. 🤷
Oh ok. Possibly I guess.
Studded tires for icy roads
I have a 2014 2wd Chrysler 300 I don’t have a jack or lift I do have ramps I used for oil changes is there tension on the sway bar links or can I replace the links with the car just being on the ramps?
You should be able to do on ramps. It might even be easier then on a Jack. As long as you got both front tires on ramps.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIY thanks 🙏🏼
Word to the wise.
Don’t order cheap parts. I bought amazon parts to do this job, but I knew eventually I’ll have to replace it with oem or better quality sway bar links. After 4 months and retightening the nuts (they loosen overtime if you don’t retorque them after 500 miles)
I figure I’d get Quality sway bar links. I purchased duralast from autozone and this could be done without removing the tire. I used lots of loc tight this tight so the nut wouldn’t loosen because not sure why they would become loose overtime . But anytime you work on suspension I believe after 500-1000 miles, you should retorque all the suspension parts you replaced/fixed.
Yep. You usually end up spending more when you buy cheap.
I torqued mines to 95 and my new links snapped
Oh no. See if there is warranty and then do the new ones to 50 ft lbs or where you feel it's tight enough. 95 is what the computer said. Better humane then lawful. 😉
You can do this without jacking and taking the tire off
Depends on how skinny you are to fit under the car. But I would recommend taking the tire off. Makes it a lot easier.
@@AutoTechWorld_DIYlol I’m not skinny and I weigh about 250 lol😂
I did this job 3 times already using cheap Amazon parts, but 4th time, I use auto zone duralast parts and lots of Loc Tight due to but becoming loose on the last ones, and I raised the car enough so I wouldn’t have to take the tire off lol😂😂😂
And my car is lower then the 300, I did this on my dodge charger 😂
I torqued mines to 95 and my new links snapped lol
I torqued mines to 95 and my new links snapped lol