Відео

Unfortunately, the triple chest farm location was nerfed in one of the subsequent updates. I think there is only one chest there now.

Are you referring to the pillars serving as vertical supports? Those are just for aesthetics. They do not have any functional purpose or advantage over regular cubes.

Thank you, glad you found it helpful! Welcome aboard to the channel!

I counted the blocks in-between two electrical device excluding the block the devices occupy. If you include the blocks that say a generator, and a fence post occupy, then it would be 16 blocks.

Happy stealing! A ghost ship I think sounds super cool, that would be my vote for your mage build :)

That is correct. Not sure which patch did it, but all the other chests were sadly removed.

We really appreciate you taking the time to watch, glad you found it helpful!

You're welcome! A pure archer build is definitely one of the best strategies to defeat him.

Take your time! We've also got plenty of base build videos to check out if you are looking for a specific type of base. We'll usually go over any relevant tips, design decisions in those videos where they are applicable so those will be more focused on specific tips from here. Good luck!

@@pseudoposse I've watched a few of your vids and I've got a sketch pad with sketches and notes on block types and designs, but I have one question which I havent come across the answer to yet. How do I force a horde to group up, in a controlled way. I'm wanting to have a fighting base, with some melee and some ranged, so thinking one slow mechanic like arch and pillar plate jump, combined with maybe the 1/4 plate triangle jump, so they arrive slower and thinned... however, I'd love to put in a grenade shoot to deal with a bulk of them. I've never got past iron took stage of the game, but I hear a lot that being able to dish out enough damage in an active horde base is the difference between lots of exp, and a wrecked base. So I was thinking I'd bolster my damage output by having some kinda explosive proof pit, if possible, and force a fair chunk of the horde to mill around in there while I drop some 'nades. Then the ones getting into melee would already be hurt etc. I just don't know how to group the horde into clumps, especially in the early game.

@@RecuringWolfe You could group up zombies in a variety of ways in the early game. The first obvious way would be to drop zombies into a small pit. It could be dug out or you build a small structure to trap them inside after the drop. Alternatively, you can slow them down. One of my favorite blocks I recently discovered is the door trim 3-sided shape which is used in this base: ua-cam.com/video/tQwzUyfQHP4/v-deo.html In that video, I show an early base design concept (along with a lategame base design) that uses these shapes. It is quite effective for slowing down zombies which make them easy to group for pipe bombs/molotovs.

@@pseudoposse Thank you. I put together a collection of ideas, and to create a pit, I started with a base on stilts, then to dig down after. I used more stilts than in a lot of bases in your showcase vids, but mine just collapsed, and brought down part of my zombie path with it. Someone on reddit said you have some good videos on structural stability, but I can't tell which vid. I saw one where you talk about blocks and their strength based on their material, and I thought I understood what I needed to do - go no further than a 6 cube gap between stilts (which is odd because show cases bases often go further than this), and always upgrade legs first, but even with a stilt every 6 blocks, and the stilts being mostly upgraded to cobblestone, the whole lot collapsed! Very salty, I have 3 days before the horde and I need to regather all my materials and re-educate myself on 7d2d build physics, and somehow not starve! :( Edit: I've re-watched the start of this vid. I can see how extending out causes blocks to go red, but does the same rule apply if you only extend out by 2 blocks, then directly up? Will it act the same ac just extending out vertically? The next question would be whether structural braces work in 7d2d. If you stack up, then out like you do in the vid, could you go further if you add blocks to the corner, like shelves in real life? Like this shape " |7 " a diagonal brace. I was trying this, but I'm not sure if the game sees it as additional support for the overhang, or just more weight... Or if it does nothing at al. If I did a stilt made of 4 bocks (2x2) instead of 1, would that be 4 x time strength for everything supported above, or simply add 1 block support in each direction?

@@RecuringWolfe Think of it this way. Any block directly connected to bedrock is the most stable. So a block placed on the ground will be 100% stable UNLESS there is something dug out directly underneath it. So if you dig under your base, you want to be careful not to undermine yourself as you'll lower the stability of everything above it. If you decide to dig underneath, make sure to directly support your base underground and run blocks from the top level support structures down to the the new floor. Make sure there is a continuous connection of blocks from bedrock to your supports. Any gaps compromises stability. Continuously vertical stacked blocks from bedrock are completely stable. Meaning you can build a one block column as high as you want to and not collapse. For horizontal stability, I demonstrated that by building a single row of blocks outward. However, it doesn't matter the shape, rather the combined weight. You could build 2 blocks out, then several blocks upward and once you reach the same number of blocks, it will collapse. So if you take my steel use case for example, If you build beyond 15 blocks out from the steel column in a straight line it will collapse. If you build 2 blocks over, and 13 blocks up...the next block will also cause a collapse. Running extra columns to the ground will make the stability at that point the strongest. If you were to place another column behind the 15 block extended row of blocks, it would not increase stability and allow you to place a 16th block. Stability would only be increase if say you placed it under the 1st, 2nd, 3rd....up to 15th block. Hope that all makes sense :)

Once you enter deubg mode, make sure to press f8 twice :)

I love the idea, thanks for sharing!

Glad I could help!

Taco and I sincerely thank you. Happy to be bookmark worthy!

You could certainly use cheese blocks to prevent them from pathing if you don't mind using cheese. But if they are trying to break through the outside, you need to make your walls thick enough to force them through the front.

That is a respectable score! The problem with what you just described goes back to the fundamental workings of the zombie ai. They will follow the path of least resistance. So if you make a direct, but long path, they will see it as too much trouble and instead beat on your supports. That is an issue with large bases. Since zombies can spawn N, S, E, W from the player, your base needs to have entrances to accommodate any potential spawn locations. And if zombies drop out of your base and need to re-enter, make sure the path is short enough that they'll be willing to travel. The ai is always weighting the strength of the supports, versus the length of the path (if there is a path). So the stronger you make the supports, the longer you can make the path. But there are limits.

​@@pseudoposse I think the alternative staircase should do the trick in my scenario. I was mostly surprised, because while I called it big, it's certainly nowhere near the total length of some of the obstacle courses features on your channel. It also works perfectly for the zombies that get drop offed. And it works without flaw if I move out of my safe house closer to the drop point. Idea was to have them long enough on a flat surface going in a direct line for us to shoot, while keeping it super low tech with any additional parts and needs of repair kept to minimum (so no electric fence, not even barbed wire etc...). But not all zombies that spawn near our safe house go for the staircase on the opposite side. Some of them instead deciding to stick around and start smashing thing. My force field at the base of safe house confusing them even more, but they even go as far as penetrating even that. Given the thickness of the support and how high we are in the air + the force field at the bottom I didn't really expect them to ignore the wide staircase. My ideas were: a) Bottom of the staircase too far for them to consider as the easier path or some issue with registering that path even exist -> hence my question if there is a maximum block distance zombies will know to look during their pathing decision. That could be interesting test. b) Entrance towards the corridor/bridge too heavily fortified. Given it's a zombie dropper this part wasn't even needed, but I like to add additional safe measures. Possibly quickly adding a path for zombies to reach us is one of them, hence the fortified 'window'. I think I used the usual stuff in the classic melee/shooting window defense. But maybe the combined hitpoints make this path less viable for zombies. c) Ladder and door combination making this a preferred entrance, due to the zombies being big fan of doors. Also this taught me that using basic forcefield of Cube Hole right under the 2 block of the ground ladder will actually enable zombies to jump out of the hole and reach the ladder if lucky 😀 Definitely going for the Storage Block next time, if not using a proper trench

I don't mind that they can dig, but I do think it is a bit excessive with their pathing. If there is a way down, they should follow it rather than spend all night digging.

Never too late to learn! Some things have been patched out like sitting or fast traveling like falling. But most are still applicable. You can get the blink skills down around the battlemage part of the skill tree. Good luck and happy holidays!

@@pseudoposse Thank you for the information.

As long as you are within the flame altar region, you are immune to the frost. So you can build, and spend time there without needing to worry about it.

I enjoyed building it, thank you :)

The flame altar negates the frost so as long as you are within its range, you won't freeze.

You're welcome, happy to help!

Just tested out the ramp 6m02, still work for me :)

No problem, good luck!!

In the new biome, you can easily mine red marble to build those blocks now. Before, you were limited to looting red marble from containers scattered around the hollow halls.

@ thank you.

Welcome back to the game, enjoy your playthrough!

You could adjust the entrance to put it anywhere. You could dig down from flat terrain with some stairs and adjust the entrance accordingly.

I did say quite clearly multiple times I was pushing it to extreme to see what it would take to go deep inside the mountain. And I even mentioned how you should tweak the design to actually build it in game.