Відео

I would say your tub hub is stripped out. Thanks for watching.

If you can’t find any failures and the belt isn’t actually slipping it is most likely the motor. There are several other codes that indicate the motor has failed if the problem indicated isn’t actually the case these are 4,6,7,and 8. I’d change the motor. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching my video. I’m glad you enjoyed it!

What he said! Thanks for watching!

That depends on the switch style you have. One with the Logotype striker.amzn.to/45Y27uO Or you may have the simpler kind. amzn.to/3XRJw1A. Those links will get you the correct switches. Thanks for watching!

Look at your comment on the other video, I answered you there.

I've had issues with installing new lid locks and sometimes the old ones aren't bad just not making good connection. Unplug the unit and wait about 3 minutes for any capacitors to discharge. Unplug the lid lock from the control board and from the front of the machine you need to take a pick or small screw driver and bend the terminals inside the plug on the control board very slightly to the right. Once you plug it back in your lid lock should have made a good connection with the plug and should work normally. I have seen this issue more than I care to remember! Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome!

I hope someone nearby sees your comment. Thanks for watching!

@@HarperandKnowles ty

@@HarperandKnowles I actually fixed it my self for now it works the old one hahah ty so much

Lol! You’re a hero! Thanks for watching!

Great tip! Thanks for watching!

Try holding down the start button until the lights go off. Up your a minute or more. If they don’t go off your control board may be bad. Thanks for watching!

I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching!

Ha! Thanks for watching!

Try going to the Speed Queen web site and look for dealers in your area. They have distributor search there. Thanks for watching.

I’m not sure what you are asking. Do you mean the O-ring on the pump filter?

I’m glad my video was useful. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Thanks for watching another one, Shane!

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

Here is what you probably need amzn.to/3VSDU4p. Thanks for watching!

@@HarperandKnowles Yes, it is a lid switch strike, but not that particular part, although you link was helpful in helping me find what I need. I did find the correct part in ebay, but the seller wants $45.00 for it. I can't stop laughing at his expectations in believing someone would pay that much for an inch of plastic with a washer.

Thank you so much! I’m glad you’ve found value in my videos!

Thanks for watching!

Perhaps they lost it??? Thanks for watching!

I get them all the time without the cover plate for the dryers...

Yeah, me too. That’s why I keep spare covers and those washing machines harness covers around. Thanks for watching!

@@HarperandKnowles That was the very first time I ever seen someone use them for a terminal plate and you're welcome...

Thank you Eddy! I’m glad you like them.

Is it a gas dryer?

I'd change the breaker.

@@HarperandKnowles it’s an electric. I also checked the service panel for the electric connection and it’s tested fine at 240. Yes I’m thinking it might be a breaker.

I'd change the breaker. If its coming on and running awhile its probably the breaker or a problem with the receptical or home wiring.

That's unfortunate. I have no solution for you except check for glass shards between the agitator and the tub. Thanks for watching!

Glad to help you. Thanks for watching!

Try holding down the start button about 30 seconds or until then pump and lights go off.

@@HarperandKnowles Will try, thank you..

I'm not exactly sure what those are. They come in handy when replacing the rods though. They'll hang on the edge of the tub until you can hook the top into place. They are also useful to knock the cup inserts out when replacing models with tub slits. If you slide them all the way down then check after a bit it may indicate movement of the spring. Or they could be vibration dampers. I do know that they only show up on certain Whirlpool made machines.

Yeah, I've definitely found uses for them. I was just wondering if they were an active part of the suspension. Thanks for all your help.

Glad you found a solution to your inky problem. Thanks for watching!

See your other reference to this question on this video How To Replace Suspension Rods in Washing Machines: A Mechanic's Guide to Balance & Repair ua-cam.com/video/xmBJdpUfV-Q/v-deo.html.

No problem

Probably because your splutch isn't shifting completely. Thanks for watching!

Thank you for watching!

Engineered obsolescence!

That's what its looking like. Thanks for watching!

When can you come??

I have pondered this problem for a long time. I’m skeptical about re-engineered product fixes because most of the time they fail too soon. I’m going to test out Ben’s shims to see if they hold up over the long run. I have thought of boring out the tub hub and installing a brass sleeve turned to specs to see if that would improve the design but so far it’s just a thought. You’d think Whirlpool would step up their game and fix this issue but engineered obsolescence is the game now. Thanks for this comment. Perhaps this is just the excuse I need to justify buying that lathe I’ve always wanted!

@HarperandKnowles I agree about re-engineering, in general. But seeing the foam bumper pads inside the cabinet as an engineering solution shows me they're willing to squeak by. I've ordered Ben's shims and I hope they fix my problem. It's possible that my drive shaft has narrowed from rust. I'm not taking it apart again until the shims arrive. I'm sure we agree that better materials would've been the solution. If this doesn't work, I'm buying a Speed Queen TR7. Money isn't an issue and I'm tired of repairing washers. My Maytag Bravos is 9 years old. It looks brand new, but I've fixed it 4 times already.

My choice would be the TC5. Simpler and the agitator is separate from the tub.

I installed Ben's 1mm shim. It was a tight fit but I don't think the .75mm would have done the trick. The .5mm wasn't thick enough. The installation was straightforward and easy enough. All the slop between the basket and shaft is gone. The washer has minor shakinging at a couple times in the spin cycle, but it's mostly quiet and no longer walks across the floor. It doesn't move at all. I call it a success. I may install some new, more expensive suspension rods again and see if it can get any better. The rods in it now are the originals (from 9 years ago) but they're repacked with very tacky grease. The basket doesn't bounce when I push on it, but another $65 at this point is worth the chance for me.

I have a washer that is severely off balance. I got the shims in the mail today. If I have time next week I'll install them then test the snot out of them before I sell the unit or scrap it. I hope he's come up with a solution. I've sent a bunch of machines to the junk yard that I could have otherwise turned a profit on. I'll let you know how it works out. Let me know how successful your repair is.

Glad I could help. Thanks for watching!

Since the first indication was a fault with the lid lock I would change that and see if that fixes the problem. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for the information and thanks for watching too!

You are very welcome! Articles of clothing often get stuck in water pumps. Thanks for watching!

If its an old style direct drive Whirlpool (where you pull the knob out to start it) then check the stabilizer spring at back left side of tub. If a newer model where you have a large knob over six LED lights then its probably the suspension rods or a worn out tub hub. Here is a shock absorber / suspension rod video: How To Replace Suspension Rods in Washing Machines: A Mechanic's Guide to Balance & Repair ua-cam.com/video/xmBJdpUfV-Q/v-deo.html

@@HarperandKnowles thanks so much

You are welcome. Thanks for watching!

The problem here is that Kenmore is a brand not a manufacturer. Recently LG was the manufacture for many Kenmore products. Without the serial number its hard to tell what manufacturer made your machine. I could probably just look at it and tell you who made it. But without a working knowledge of these machines it could be difficult. One thing you could do is take a part number from something like a water pump and look up what machines use that part number. Thanks for watching!

@@HarperandKnowles thank for quick response. Your answer is gold. Something funny is when I got your reply I was watching your video - how to fix admiral washer: noisy agitation & transmission replacement guide. 👍

I will pick some up and give it a try. Thanks for watching!

If they aren’t broken go ahead and adjust them. Thanks for watching!

@@HarperandKnowles will do, thanks!

You are very welcome. Thanks for watching!

No, I haven’t tried that. I know this stuff works well. If there’s a cheaper solution that works I’d sure try it. Have you ever done a tub seal with those?

@@HarperandKnowles I have not tried either of them. The company I work for says that they can't take on the liability of tub repair. Unfortunately we only replace leaking tubs which rarely makes the repair cost effective.

Yeah, a tub replacement isn't exactly an economical repair. The part cost and labor usually dooms the machine to the scrap yard.