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Nice video! I just bought one too... Which gain did you choose?

Keep these coming. You give me ideas and I need that!

Went from a 10 year old Orion SSAG mono to an ASI 585MC colour. It definitely gives better refresh rates and data quality. My Nyx-101 wants a 1-2 second guiding update. Did it make a difference in guiding a strain wave mount? Not really. Same as you, get around .6 - 1 arc seconds, usually .8 to .9. Seems to be the best I can get with atmosphere and mechanical constraints.

Nice image my friend shame about the smoke in your area though, for guiding over the years I've used QHY II cameras mono & colour & never saw much difference, I now use a Lodestar II which are pretty old cameras now but still perform well as they have a larger pixels so I tried binning X2 when I used the QHY II mono & that seemed to improve the guiding performance, the pixel size on that is 3.75 whereas the Lodestar II is 8.2 X 8.4. I leave most settings alone in PHD though other than exposure time depending on the skies.

Great video, and mono should always beat OSC for guiding, conditions being equal, great image too..👏🏻👍🏻

Excellent image!

Richard - Belgium - Love to watch your astro journey 🙂😉I'm guiding my Skywatcher 250/1200, on a AZEQ6, with ASI 120 MM Mini / and Artesky 70/400 scope. In PHD2 I always put my Time frame to 2 s....gives a better guiding. Also, be sure that you are in good focus with your guiding scope....Seeing is also important...good guiding one day, the nexte one ...bad.... PHD2 can be, as we say here, "usine a gaz"...meaning something like "of a labyrinth"...even if PHD means "push here dummy"...🤣 But with a good balanced mount default settings work quite well...for me. But must admit, not always been easy in the beginning.

Nice solution! Hopefully this setup works a lot better for you1

I have found that my AM3 guides better when my guide camera gain is lowered from the typical 100 to around 70-75. This goes against most of what I’ve read… but hey it works for me. Maybe give it a try. I also have better performance guiding at 1sec than 0.5sec… Try messing with those next time and see if you notice any change.

nice cold blood reaction when it all went wrong, very ambitious project ! thanks fpr sharing

Hi, I am having the same issue with my DIY mount also, in regards to the adjustment base. Let us know how it goes, I will get the base if it works well for you.

Fingers crossed those problems have now been sorted, the NEMA 17's I would have thought should be powerful enough to move your mount as I have the same on my CGE Pro which is a heavy old beast. The wedge isn't a bad price either although I do remember Cuiv reviewing the mount & him saying it's an odd set up. Clear skies

I'm not sure I'd put my phone on that, nevermind a75lb scope! Pics onlline can be deceiving.

Not a bad solution. I may have to copy you. Mine has been on the shelf for 6 months

I love your videos, I have great respect for anyone who can build there own kit… can I ask why your guiding assistant said your were approx 193 arc min off in PA, when you had set it to within 22 seconds..? 👍🏻

You should clean up the flux left by solder with isopropyl alcohol and a brush and paper, it can cause corrosion over time if left like that because humidity in the air could mix with the solder and cause it to turn acidic, which can damage the pads and cause short circuit.

Not to make you feel bad but in Ebay I bought brand new the Explore Scientific 80ED FCD-100 for $540 including taxes. The same seller also had the 102ED FCD-100 and got that one for $1200. I am pretty sure they acquired them from some pallet deal but they were brand new. Sometimes we just get lucky. 😊

Really glad nothing broke !

I just got my filter yesterday and I love it! I was using a CLS filter up until I got the SV220. The tulip nebula is sooo much better with the SV220. I may go mad scientist and try to combine the two.👨🏾‍🔬

Great video ty

Chrome remote desktop will work on your phone if that would be handy for standing nearby your mount :)

Good deal!

Can't platesolve with this filter in place. Not enough stars despite playing with exposure and gain settings.. If platesolving without the filter there's no problem. When putting the filter in afterwards Not enough stars are picked up to stack the images. Bit of a chicken egg situation that can't be solved. Can't understand why everyone loves this filter.

I've seen your EXOS-2 rebuild video and internals of this mount are promising, considering that i can buy it from china right now for dirty cheap. Can i ask you: what kind of scope realistically this mount can carry without struggle? Primarily, for visual and may be some very minor ED/APO astrophoto. Thanks.

Though, im a super amature visual astronomer, when i've got EQ-3 used in order to replace shitty stock fork AZ mount, as a guy with reasonable understanding of mechanisms, i've noticed that as a piece of machinery, this mount is uhhhmmmm...behaving weird: stiff rotation, quite a bit of stopping power on axises and so on and so forth. I've disassembled it and what i've seen is just wow: not a single rigid bearing- all it has is gears acting as axial support and some fiber/plastic washers where gears rests on a housing. At that moment i found a video very similar to yours where some guy replaces everything he can with industrial low friction rings and needle thrust bearings that magically fit this mount "bolt on". Now i have EQ-3 for super cheap with slightly enhanced load capacity (bearing are rigid and wont deform) and significantly smoother rotation. Sure thing, initial lack of ball bearings doesnt allow axises to free spin like yours, but anyway its a success. Now im consider to buy EQ-5 type mount and now your video is the bliss. Thanks a lot.

Shot in the dark, but how tight was your focus lock screw? Try making it very loose see if that fixes the stars in corner

We as a community need to come up with a better acronym for Extra Low Dispersive Glass... Google Adsense is likely to start thinking funny things about me.

Hey, i noticed you had a problem where the wave generator popped out on your smaller drives, this is because it does not have a shaft with a bearing the way you put it together. The flange you received with these ones normally holds a motor for direct drive and the bearing of the motor is used to keep the wave generator in :)

My first scope. I had the FCD-100 version. Love every piece of him and that focal lenght is the sweet spot for most cameras :) They have like a huge backfocus lenght, so you need to pay attention on that dovetail when put the scope in a EQ mount that is not harmonic. In mine I inverted the dovetail backwards and it worked. You eggshaped stars I think it is tilt mixed with a wrong backfocus distance. I suggest to leave that compression ring at the end, and manage to make all with spacers that fills the backfocus and grabs the flattner. It eliminates the tilt. I did in mine and learned mt mistake. Congrats for the acquisition :D

great work. I am flitting between trying to build a mount or buy one. capacity being my main constraint.

Very cool. That must be so satisfying to have the skills to do this

Very cool! I can't wait to see the focuser :)

that circlip should have been fitted before pressing the bearing back in.

Hi! Can you share what is the speed (steps) you are running your stepper motor and also the code? I am in the process of doing something on the same lines but don’t have much working knowledge of stepper motors and their controllers. Thanks.

Excellent video, thanks for sharing your work

Amazing work. Thanks for the link to the harmonic drives. I've been hesitant to buy as i didn't want to get the wrong thing.

I like your philosophy about going to max size 😁 This is something I've always wanted to do, so it's great to see that it is possible to do without having a full machine shop. With regard to the guide curve - do you think it would be possible to smooth that out with some PEC stuff? You've most likely said it already but my memory is not so good - what software are you using in the controller and as the driver interface to the computer? And I really like the picture 😊

Have you ever thought of building and selling your mount?

Did you get these on ebay also or if not where? Also the wave generator, does it come in different shaft sizes?

brilliant. clouds do suck.

How did you tension your belts? I'm currently in the process of making my own harmonic mount but I'm just not sure how to tension them.

Those harmonic drives look like real monsters I wonder what load capacity your mount can take now? The old CGE pro I use has NEMA 17's & I've never had an issue with them slewing the RASA around & the dual rig I'm currently building, with it having 30KG of counterweights to balance it all it seems to handle it fine although the real test will be when I'm imaging with it. Congrats on your 1000 subs to clear skies

Really like your videos, thinking about DIYing a mount myself as I am on a tight budget and currently have no mount big enough for my new OTA. I've been hesitant because I don't want to invest the money only to get sub par results, but i think you have convinced me to try. Thanks!

Excellent result, good job...

Perhaps a stupid question: To get in focus with the 305 pro in the 165 guide scope i need to the length of the guide tube increases by around 2cm. Does that mean the focal length is 140mm or is still 120mm? Thanks in advance

Did you get the stepper motors as a kit or buy them separately from stepperonline but they just came pakaged together?

Very interesting, but extremely annoying music.

You are my hero. I would love to build one myself. I'm struggling with a 30 year old LX100 and am not one of those folks who can drop $2000 on a new mount. Great work friend.👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾

Towards the end looks like the marks on the green tape are off, I would not think there is that much play in the ring holes? But the camera angle was not straight on. Thanks, just might do the same to my SN8 as I have flocking paper...Also I think you are seeing Coma as I have a Coma Corrector but have not used it for imaging..Just an idea.

Very cool Whyf16uy! Yeah at the start of the AM5 being told no counterweights needed! True but with scopes that as short and not off balance as Harmonic drives don't need to be balanced, but a suggestion I was told is to take say your SN8 and put on a table and with a pencil or wood dowel find the center spot of balance with all of your eq on it and mark the dovetail tail and then place the SN8 in the center of your dovetail clamp and then you should be centered balanced, but due to the size of the SN8 use a counterweight to prevent tipping over. I just got an SN8 and mounted it on the AM5 using the TC40 CF tripod and used a 35 lbs weight on the tripod bad to prevent it from tipping over but later I added a counterweight just for insurance. I am noticing with a high power EP of 4/5mm it does vibrate in the garage looking across the street with some wind. So maybe shooting at a wide field won't be a real issue in images? But at high power EP it was... Would like to get the STL file for the SN8 please...Looking forward to hear more from you!