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THANKS BROTHER HELP.... SAME PROBLEM I HAVE THANKS TOO YOUR VIDEO NOW I NOW THE PROBLEM 👍🏻💯♥️💪🏻🙏🏻

SOS pads and dawn with water. Works incredible. Been doing it for years.

How did you break 2nd bolt off?

How did you break the 2nd bolt off?

My 2016 Pathfinder Makes The Same Noise 🤔🧐

How did you break it off? Just yank on it

I find three things neat woth this; One, mine is a 2016, but looks exactly the same as yours, two we live in the same state, and three, oir playes are nearly identical. Also gonna have one hell of a day now to do this

Looks like this is a 2013 or newer Escape. Pls update your video title to note that as earlier model years likely have some different steps/parts. Thanks very much.

Love this thanks for making this video!

Very well made video! Clear and concise. A great help since I'll be doing this exact job. Once again, thanks for posting this. Cheers!

omg. Thank you! I knew my camera came unplugged somehow and I'm going to fix it asap with this. No idea I could access it from inside the trunk.

Thank you

Make that slot tighter, if it's your room you'll know where the lock is if it's intruder they won't be able to see and use their pinky to unlatch it

Just finished fixing my truck using this video. My truck was thumping/knocking loudly every time the key was turned on, even if the HVAC was off. I felt at each of the actuators and it was hard to tell which one it was, because the knocking is transmitted through the entire ductwork so you can feel it at all of the actuators. But it seemed worst at this lower actuator. I followed the suggestion in another comment and only cut the top half of the vent, and then unclipped and removed the top half, leaving the bottom half in place. This allowed the top of the duct to be reattached later. I just used a long sawzall blade with duct tape wrapped around one end to use as a handle. Your blade can't be very tall or else it will hit some other plastic pieces and wont reach all the way to the far side of the duct. I made that mistake initially. You should poke around with the blade and reach around behind the duct with your other hand before you begin sawing and make sure you have snaked the blade successfully through the plastic maze and are actually sawing the entire duct and not just 75% of it. I think sawzall blades are ideal since they taper down to a thin point. I had to get pretty rowdy with a pry bar to flex the duct enough to get the old motor out, but nothing broke, so the ducts seem pretty resilient. If you have left the lower half of the duct in place like I did, make sure you pull the carpet out from underneath it so that it can be flexed down that extra tiny amount without being held up by the carpet. The new motors all seem to come with the missing tooth pointed directly forward. I tore apart the old broken actuator and took out the old male spline piece and marked it using a sharpie so that I could use it as a tool to orient the female socket correctly to match the new motor. This worked really well and the new motor instantly went into place easily. I also pulled fuse 46 in the passenger footwell once I was done, which supposedly does some sort of recalibration on the actuators; not sure if necessary or not, but didn't hurt anything. Thank you for the video.

Yo got a question

Would a gps system cause that also

OEM only on all mounts. It's pricey but worth it.

Clutch! Thank you

worst video ever. Honestly. Why bother.

Did all this got the camera installed just made a small hole for my 2014 ford fusion to screw it in then I tied the wires to my left headlight cause of some other UA-cam and the camera still ain’t work. Basically asking where the heck do I wire it to get it to work.

I changed and keep knocking, help?

How could Ford not have made that duct in two pieces so that the interfering part of the duct could be removed and then snapped back in place after swapping the blend-door motor. Actually I think you or I or anyone who knows how to weld plastic could maybe add a collar to the removed piece (using lap joints) so it would fit neatly back onto the stub and would be easily removeable in the future.

Thanks so much!

I would perfer using a paper tower to get the maximum shine out of whatever shining product your using

I put 4.8 quarts instead of 4.5 on accident is that fine or should i drain?

Poke the hole in the cap.

Pain in the ass is the understatement of the century when it came to getting the top one out. Such a stupid design those clips are.

Not good

Also remember to unplug the foglights

I have the same noise found another channel and they replaced the exhaust Vct solenoid

Thanks for the video @justthetipgarage5305 Mine makes the same noise but when I turn the AC off the noise is gone... I've read that you had the noise no matter if you turned the AC on or off and @madfishing4813 had the opposite (noise when the ac is off but no noise when the ac is on)... Still the same replacement you think?

Thanks,🤙💪💪💪💪

I own a 07 civic lx.. car vibrates when being in parked or when I’m at a red light.! Is this issue from having bad motor mounts.?

Okay so I seen this video and I did it and I replaced it with a new one, well it didn’t seem to fix my problem I have a 2010 ford raptor and it blows straight heat on the driver side, passenger side works perfectly fine it has ac and heat but my driver side has no ac did I replace the wrong actuator?

good job, always innovating

The New pipe doesnt have The 2 holes with The 2 heat shields covering them on this New pipe from what i see, has it affected the Floor Board of your car ?

Do you have the Amazon link to the camera ?

Did you seat back heater quit working too?

I have a vibration issue in idle but none when driving or even in park. I have a 2013 Honda civic lx . I tried fuel system cleaners and replaced two motor mounts that were bad. Mechanic inspected the car through with a scanner. The issue is unfortunately still present. I am considering cleaning the throttle body and then giving up if nothing happens.

I have the same exact issue, might just replace the whole ac compressor since it already has over 200k 💀

can't understand a fucking word your saying!!!!!

Thanks a lot ford your engineers are genius with those stupid designs we ll figure it out anyway fuckers😮

Took me FOREVER to figure out why my transmission was leaking. Than you very much for the video! Now i can stop adding half a quart of trans fluid every week and it ruining my garage floor

I just attempted to change mine. I couldn’t get the tab to break on the bolt you can’t get to. Put it all back together and I will try another day. Any tips on getting it to break?

Brother thank you for sharing. What a PITA. This is the only way to go!

thanks a ton.. same exact problem with my civic 2009... at a workshop right now.. So to summarize, replace the pully, barings and clutch?

Everyone acting like this is so easy?!!!! I can't get the actual blend door out ! How did you get the other screw out?!

Different issue here but that’s good to know. As an auto locksmith I see a few of these a year.

Thanks for this. Used the same parts you described here and finally have a working brake controller on my 2018 F150. Snaking the wire through the firewall grommet and up to the glovebox area was a PITA.

Would this work on oil?