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Re. the placement of the switch panel, I suggest all but the horn switch should be inside mounted near the electrical cabinet. Seconds count at bends so the horn switch needs to be within reach of the helm, this assumes the horn switch shown in the video is the "honk" button.

Have you checked the cabintop steel flatness around the leaking porthole with a builders or brickies straight edge? When you do make progress with the porthole sealing I suggest doing a final stress test with a lawn sprinkler running for hours.

When comparing domestic LEDs with your boat DC lights remember that 50% of the AC watts are lost in rectification. So your 2.5w boat and 6w house bulbs probably have similar lumens.

Good luck with the fit out, guys. Interesting to watch you both. That's what we always did on any job.....get the tea and coffee organised. Gets you through those tough moments.

Another excellent video!

Gald to see your progress and cheerful experience working out the next steps as a team. Safe travels

Very informative!

I have a Victron multiplus. 3000 watt sine wave and 70 amp battery charger. I have a Victron colour controller so can see the amps going out. I have had no problems with the USB outputs on a two gang socket supplied by Wikes. Just been charging a camera now and the inverter output is fluctuating 3 or 4 amps. Where are these forums that mention problems with an inverter powering a USB socket built into a two gang mains socket ?

Admire you tenacity, time taken now should lead to a better outcome. Take care.

Take care with the heat. You are not in a sprint (no project mgt here) Loving your detailed and organised approach. Measure 5 times cut maybe once

yes a long video but it covers a lot of important points in a down to earth way

Great video. Just discovered your channel and subscribed. Look forward to more vlogs.

Only a suggestion, but for your horn, navigation lights and tunnel light fit them just inside the door in a slightly recessed panal where they will not get accidentally knocked. This will keep them dry and you don't have to cut another hole in the steel of the boat. Also are you having 12 volt fridges and freezers ? I know people have mains voltage ones as the cost may be cheaper to buy, but this means running an inverter all the time which is inefficient and will drain leisure batteries more than 12 volt ones.

congratulations on almost completing the electrics. A good journey so far and your procrastinations are quite entertaining. As far as navigation lights in tunnels, I personally find them quite useful, the white stern light is very useful in determining your distance from the boat in front with no other reference available. It doesn't need to be that bright. keep up the good work.

What a great channel this is, so informative, it’s nice to follow along with a new build, thank you for the journey. I hope you continue these vlogs on your travels too.

The RUTC50 is out July 2024 - this unit but with WiFi 6!

would have thought the boat builder who fitted the windows has to make them good. Its for them to contact Caldwells if there is an issue with the manufacture.

Hi, put the switches on the morse controller if possible as they are a pain to operate when inside. Keep up the good work, enjoying your progress 😎

Congrats on the milestone of completing lighting and switching for those items. Great to see your project moving forward.

You are taking way too long to make that call.....

Hi Colin, thanks for sharing the details of how you determined the light spread. I am looking at the same puck lights, awesome! Safe Travels!

Hi Colin and Scott. The fit-out is coming a long and many hands do make light work. Thanks for share the details of your work. Safe travels!!

Great job. Those dastardly mistakes get everywhere, I have made a few 😂 Have a great family time. Mick

Decafe coffee is evil! created by somone who hates coffe drinkers lol Good choice with the battens it also helps with condensation with the air gap.

Thanks for the shout out 😎 fwiw I'm now at the stage of 'horizontal closing' the under the tumble homes/gunnels - it would've been much easier if i planned this before!!. As you're using 9mm ply... I'm using 12mm and a few sockets move more than I'd like when a plug is tight - dunno solution and small beans anyway, but fwiw. Good decision on the cross battening - I would consider the similar on the ceilings. Makes cabling much easier! Jeremy 😉

looking good. Always do the mock-up as you have done. Also remember that depending on your interior finish that you will have more light bouncing off shiny surfaces and not being absorbed into raw wood and spray foam

That is such great progress. Congratulations. It's great that you chuckle at basic errors -we are all human.

Really coming along now, with the electrics do you need to get them inspected for certification after your installation?

🤔 fwiw - I decided to run a ring... If it fails it'll be marginally harder to find, but seems unlikely and I can easily break into the ring behind the front step to split it if I need to. I also put it all in conduit (so I could run it all right next to the DC [also in it's own conduit]) so all my electrics are in the same '[in]accessible' location. But I can tell you - future you will appreciate loads of sockets!! Interesting seeing your thoughts 😎

Really enjoying the series (even with the detail). An option could have been round louvre vents with a built in flyscreen?

First Fix...brilliant. As a novice with a view to investing in a canal vessel some time in the future, your detailed approach is so useful and interesting.

A wooden cutting board attached to drawer slides just below the permanent kitchen countertop creates very useful extra counter space. Slide it out when needed, when not needed, slide it back under the fixed countertop.

Good work! This should serve you well. My experience is that something decently sturdy for bracing between battens (to support bulkheads or the edges of boards) was what I wanted, so used bits 19mm hardwood ply.

I know I am an overthinker. I think about that every day Taping off the plan is so important and glad you got it sorted

Loved the body on the floor hillarious :) Your right the only true measurement is the floor. I'd make yourself a perfect 90 degree triangle about 3ft or you can buy one. That will give you true angles and straight 90 degree edges off the floor to the ceiling? (If that makes sense) The thing about building a boat is your always making changes and re-designing, and compromising :)

I’m pink therefore I’m spam. Cerebral work keeps you fit. Well done on the layout.

Great idea with fly screen

Just a couple of points,. The calculation for free air flow from the vents will also be halved due to the size of the ducting being smaller than the surface area of the vent. I don't get the idea of cold air being fed into the bilge, it just needs air flow from within the cabin, which is usually warmer, a few cuts in the foil edges will allow for this. The vent pipe for the water tank is also the overflow to indicate the tank is full so is usually located below the filler neck level with a swan neck in the pipe. It's great to be innovative when carrying out these projects but you don't need to reinvent the wheel.😂

Funny old week...peed with rain here in Switzerland. Great way to start my Monday watching your progress. I enjoy your logical approach. Cheers

Sorry for the 'negative' comment, but you're obviously a thinker same as me.... In the previous episode you said about getting air down to the bilge and flowing along.... (And you have the foil under the boards, so that's separation) ... So I'm struggling to understand where your airflow into and out of the bilge will happen... I feel your pain - ultimately I didn't try to seal the bilge at all and have even stopped my lower walls up off the floor where i knew it would be ok yo promote some passive 'flow' (would've been better just to put lots of 2" holes in the board so they didn't have to float up off the floor). Your fly screens should be assumed to be in place by any inspector as they don't require tools (reality is that they'll probably look at what they can see and put a tick in the box).

Thanks Colin for a most informative vlog on the RUTx50. Would you happen to have a good link for the 12v power cable? Many thanks James

Well done on the progess. Its not about the destination, its the journey, and you recording this and sharing is just so lovely.

Re Leaks All three narrowboats that we owned have had internal water leaks from plumbing. From accumulator tank, from washer on joint from tap connector to tap, from drinking water tap fine bore pipe to 15mm cold supply in kitchen and from hot pipe coming off back of shower mixer valve. Current boat had no access hatch in rear bedroom floor so just been doing that this winter after shower leak on day of last holiday last September. I don't have a water alarm or bilge pump currently. However my thoughts are that a bilge pump and float switch are a very good idea. If you have an internal leak I suggest you will probably be not aware of it occurring unless staying on the boat and the fresh water pump cycling on and off or running all the time. Except for the last leak we were not on the boats. Your fresh water tank holds hundreds of litres of water and if there is a leak it could result in the floor becoming very wet. In an ideal preventative situation I suggest that a bilge pump with float and manual override and a water detection alarm should be fitted. Re Extra foil layer of insulation. My thoughts are that the air in the space between the sprayfoam lining and the wall and ceiling wooden cladding will vary in temperature in Uk from minus five to plus forty degrees centigrade. There will always be condensation, but the sprayfoam will reduce this and adding an extra foil layer is on balance an unnecessary expense and time in fitting. I suggest just waterproofing the cladding with varnish like you have done with the floor to reduce mould growth.

Hi, I'd personally put three alarms in the bilge. One at the front near the water tank, one under the shower and one in the back section under the hot water tank. Great series of vlogs I'm really enjoying watching your channel and progress. Thank you for sharing

In my opinion, you’ve pretty much answered your own question. If you fit a bilge pump in the cabin, it’s likely that it won’t work unless you run it wet periodically, which you can’t realistically do. The primary risk of flooding in the cabin is from a leak in the water supply (tank, pipework or fitting). So for me the most useful option is a sensor and alarm, preferably incorporated into a boat alarm system that can notify you on your phone in case you are away from the boat. That together with shutting off the water tank valve whenever away from the boat for any length of time. I’m really enjoying watching your progress so far, keep up the good work 👍🏻

Are you not going to put laminate flooring down on top of that old plywood for your flooring??

Roma just looks so young, i hope she had a fantastic Birthday.

Would be interested to know what you intend to line the floor lockers with. Steel will sweat🤔

Look after your knees, they cost £16,000 each to replace!

Loving the videos guys, and I have to say Colin. Am very impressed with your diy skills.