Відео

He died

Artur why did you stop making videos?...never give up a good idea!

They need to build a Radio frequency generator app for Android/IOS...now that would be an interruptive app!

I just picked up one of these (Micronta 22-175) and am looking for a schematic since one of the power leads has come unconnected. I would also like a photo of the information on the back of the unit if I can get one somehow. I found the manual online but no schematic. Mine suffered from corrosion from batteries that the previous owner left in too long. I am hoping to resurrect mine.

I have the 22-174A with two trim pots as well. Disappointing that I can calibrate it for a certain voltage, but the DC voltages below that are high and those above it are low. None of my other meters have a "skewed" voltage response curve like this, but I guess it's not terrible because it still holds within 1%. So I picked mid-range for the types of voltages I typically measure and went with that. As for current, I thought I might go in and fine tune the location of the soldered sense wire on the shunt to fix some current offset. First I checked the resistance voltage drop on the shunt at a calibrated current, and it was right where it was supposed to be. So I made no adjustment, assuming the lack of calibration was elsewhere in the circuit. In the end, after adjusting DCV (touchy as it is) I found resistance to be within half a percent for everything above 10 ohms, within 3% on all current, 5% on capacitance, 1% on ACV, and 10% on diodes. The transistor checker is awesome for how old the meter is (1995). Wished I knew how to make the display just a little bit darker "more contrast". The beep was always a bit too quiet, and just recently I found out they put the product warning/safety label over hole that is supposed to let out the sound! I popped a hole in that label and now it really sounds good. Cheers!

thank you. I have this trouble with my mks tft35 v 1

Instead of trying to tune your divider to account for voltage drop from the meters impedance, you should just keep it as a perfect divider and calculate the voltage drop from impedance to get the true voltage present

Nice video - thx! You're right, there is an optocoupler for isolation (my one has a FODM2701 clone), but it seems, it does not have any UL or VDE rating. Apart from that, the creepage distances of UL / EN 61010 are totally violated (should be > 6mm), so that that device must not be offered for US and Europe! It's a danger for life! By the way: USB is PL2303, which is know for causing problems with Windows and it's an A plug to be used for USB masters only. All in all: Thumbs up for the video, thumbs down for the tool.

Read the manuals, most meters the auto shut down can be overiden by holding one of the buttons when switching on. Bob UK

Hi Artur. Just want to add that this process is not steam distillation. Steam distillation is when you have another tube introduced to distillation flask and you input water steam through it. This makes essential oils distillate in lower temperatures.

Thank you for your time recording our product. Valuable insights. Thanks.

Thanks for the video. We appreciate your honest work.

Can you please provide your email id? Need your help with firmware

What do you expect from a $10 meter?

Ooh it's a genuine FTIKE

Thanks for mentioning me on your video. F.Y.I. there are up_load & download tools for both PC and LINUX that will allow you to load your .hex file directly to RAM via the serial port. Also one to upload BASIC source. Hope you give them a try.

Thanks for the video. MASTECH will launch new products soon. Stay tuned and follow our progress!

Лучший мультиметр это конечно же Mastech!У меня есть и я доволен !

love it that you went through the mannual, trying hard to find that!

Interesting

Greeting, I have a similiar meter with your Victor 86C. It's Proskit MT-1820, oem from Victor too. The main chip under the LCD display was: Fortune Semiconductor FS9922-DMM4. Tis chip was a bit old compared to that DreamTech chip used on your Aneng one. The dataseet last revision dated on 2015. MT-1820 is NOT True rms multimeter (Your Aneng one is true rms). Mine worked well on all ranges including the currents range (uA, mA, A). On low Frequency and DutyCycle measurement it's very good and precise, i like it. On Continuity test there's a bit DELAY, not suddenly beeps. I use my other multimeter for faster work on continuity test. The display n it's backlight r good. It's sturdy. This is the only meter with bar grap i have. Written on 4:13 PM Monday, February 13, 2023 (Java, Indonesia)

send it back

Victor=🚮

3:25 i thought i have horrible writing

so if you set the voltage reference to 2.5 would that meter on the left with 6000 counts have shown another digit after the decimal? if so you should have tested them all at 2.5 volts not 10.

your sharing firmware original please

Man, the reason why Yamaha goes down faster is probably because it has lower output level and the lower part is hidden in the noises at the bottom. Choose different scale on the oscilloscope, use proper grounding and I bet you will see this signal.

Mastech 8268 is true RMS?

can it be done via Arduino board? R3?

Спасибо за обзор 👍очень интересно

The yamaha chips offer logarithmic volume scaling. That's normal and an improvement. Think of pots... GI chips have linear taper and Yamaha chips have audio taper. The spikes are also normal for any chip with TDM output mixing. The DX7 synthesizer does that too. Lowpass filtering eliminates the spikes. The shrunk package means the three outs are TDM mixed here, where as on the larger YM2149 and the GI chips there are three DAC pins and the outputs are mixed with resistors. The biased output level allows for using single ended opamps in the output filter and driver stages without requiring rail to rail input response. If you want a better comparison, pick up a YM2149F. Common price on Ali is <$1/ea.

Simply clean your probe tips with isopropyl alcohol and a paper towel or clean rage. The human ear would not be able to distinguish the speed of continuity connect between any of the probes. There is a fine film on the metal probe tips that protects them during shipping and storage before being sold. Hope this help you and others.

what is the highest voltage that can be used while measuring frequency

I can't set drv8825 vref to 1.3v .. It is very sensitive and changes constantly : 1.3v to 3.5v to 5v!... are motors safe?

They may seem worse than they actually sound) Shall we listen? 🙂

Nice!

I have been using AN8002 for several years now, it is a good multimeter. I love it.

Hi, where can i find a bootloader dump for this board? I flashed a wrong firmware and now when i wire the board to the mks sbase 1.3 its bricked (black display, no backlight and no blue LED on the back)

Thanks for this video! Please make more videos about this cpu

It is well known that the module with the jumpers has a fake sheet delivered which is the same sheet and the same values on all the same delivered modules so of course the values are 200% false !!!

I have the HoldPeak one and I think yours was calibrated badly. Maybe a broken one that should have been replaced. Rest is okay.

If a multimeter has a rs232 option, enable it to disable the auto-power-off. ;) I know it is a old video, but maybe this information is still useful for someone...

I think it says 99.9hz-9.999mhz in the manual.

Very straightforward. Good explanation about voltage vs current.

I work with limonene at work! Very expensive lol. We get it in very high quantity tho! Don’t want to get this stuff on you it’ll burn like a mf. Forgot to add we just call this stuff limeo lol

what is your overall evaluation?

Thanks. I have this meter as well. I'll have to do this to mine. Also, do you have any idea why the batteries are set up the way they are? I was wanting to run mine from an external power source but when I seen the way the batteries were wired, I put it back together.

which probe master test leads were these?

The mentioned PL2303 chip to the left of the PC connection is a USB to serial (RS-232) bridge. I'm hoping to poke around to get a more or less direct UART/232 output from the device to try and interface it with things that don't have USB.

6 mm linear rail?oh Gott!🤦‍♂️