Looking good so far Artur! I'm curious what type of solder are you using..leaded or lead free? 30 watts should be sufficient for this type of work..but lead free solder can be a big PIA and seems to require more heat and takes longer to spread...The flux is a good idea...better results in the long term. Funny I just got a Goot 30 watt (Japan) Soldering iron in from Ebay today..! I know what I'll be doing this weekend..Keep up the videos..always informative and dare I say fun!
I'm using leaded solder. I'm old school :) Those power pads were kinda large. I.e. big heatsink. Maybe I should use a different tip on my iron, but really a higher-wattage iron would be good for this. I kinda needed a third hand when one of the connectors slipped out. I use solder with flux/resin in it but still it helps to add some more. Using flux helped a lot on many occasions. So, you'll have a video coming with a review of your new iron? :)
I'm seriously thinking about it Artur.. :) But I do prefer being on the viewing end! ..btw nothing wrong with old school..I've tried 2 different lead free solders both with mediocre results...now they're collecting dust. Long live leaded solder!
i just bought most parts to start build my HCE. because of your video, i bought the same PSU, so i can follow what you are doing xD. just few questions: what kind of Z thread rod you using ? do you have STL files for all your printed parts? or they are basically the stock parts?
If you're looking for ideas for videos, I'd love to see a walkthrough of that LCD panel menus, what it can do and how it works. You seem to really like them. Is it the one with the USB port on the side so you can print from thumb drive? That would be much better than unreliable sdcard.
Yes, it has both USB and SD card. I mainly use SD card and it works fine. Great idea about the video. I want to do one about attempting to reflash my malfunctioning display. I'll include overview
Thanks for the updates. I have a cheap but good Iroda gas soldering iron that has a large tip for heavy work. Seems to pump a lot of heat in, though only rated at 70 watts apparently. Like the idea of adding the connectors to the power supply, I wouldn't have thought of that! I bought a cheap 300x300 bed, but I think it was a false economy: I doubt my Smoothieboard or planned Duet WiFi (maybe even the meanwell PSU) can supply enough current. I'll probably just splash out on a 240v silicone heater, SSR and 6mm plate instead of the stop-gap. I've just discovered a Facebook group for Hypercube builds. Do you use it?
So your iron worked for you? Mine is only 30W. I might have another one floating around somewhere but i never use it because normally it will be too big. But maybe for jobs like this i should dust it off. Generally trick with hot air works well, especially for heated beds - one big heatsink those are.
The big hypercube seems to be coming along just fine :)
Yes it is! So far no major issues
Very nice work! i sold a range of them and didn't think to use screw terminals and was considering soldering wires directly. much neater solution.
Thanks!
I like the idea of using M3 bolts and no soldering , 10mm with washers and 2 nuts - one for lock down the other to clamp connection
Are you still using the yellow PETG X axis bushings? How do they hold up over time?
Have you ever tried to use using bronze bushings?
Looking good so far Artur!
I'm curious what type of solder are you using..leaded or lead free?
30 watts should be sufficient for this type of work..but lead free solder can be a big PIA and seems to require more heat and takes longer to spread...The flux is a good idea...better results in the long term.
Funny I just got a Goot 30 watt (Japan) Soldering iron in from Ebay today..! I know what I'll be doing this weekend..Keep up the videos..always informative and dare I say fun!
I'm using leaded solder. I'm old school :) Those power pads were kinda large. I.e. big heatsink. Maybe I should use a different tip on my iron, but really a higher-wattage iron would be good for this. I kinda needed a third hand when one of the connectors slipped out.
I use solder with flux/resin in it but still it helps to add some more. Using flux helped a lot on many occasions.
So, you'll have a video coming with a review of your new iron? :)
I'm seriously thinking about it Artur.. :)
But I do prefer being on the viewing end! ..btw nothing wrong with old school..I've tried 2 different lead free solders both with mediocre results...now they're collecting dust. Long live leaded solder!
i just bought most parts to start build my HCE.
because of your video, i bought the same PSU, so i can follow what you are doing xD.
just few questions:
what kind of Z thread rod you using ?
do you have STL files for all your printed parts? or they are basically the stock parts?
good looking machine. I have watched 6 episodes now and you have worked on everything except on building the actual hypercube. Am I missing something?
If you're looking for ideas for videos, I'd love to see a walkthrough of that LCD panel menus, what it can do and how it works. You seem to really like them. Is it the one with the USB port on the side so you can print from thumb drive? That would be much better than unreliable sdcard.
Yes, it has both USB and SD card. I mainly use SD card and it works fine. Great idea about the video. I want to do one about attempting to reflash my malfunctioning display. I'll include overview
Thanks for the updates. I have a cheap but good Iroda gas soldering iron that has a large tip for heavy work. Seems to pump a lot of heat in, though only rated at 70 watts apparently. Like the idea of adding the connectors to the power supply, I wouldn't have thought of that!
I bought a cheap 300x300 bed, but I think it was a false economy: I doubt my Smoothieboard or planned Duet WiFi (maybe even the meanwell PSU) can supply enough current. I'll probably just splash out on a 240v silicone heater, SSR and 6mm plate instead of the stop-gap.
I've just discovered a Facebook group for Hypercube builds. Do you use it?
So your iron worked for you? Mine is only 30W. I might have another one floating around somewhere but i never use it because normally it will be too big. But maybe for jobs like this i should dust it off. Generally trick with hot air works well, especially for heated beds - one big heatsink those are.
What is the print volume?