If it’s not already been said: the bellows leak is caused by the hoseclamp directly above the driveshaft bellows- tilt the outdrive up and take a look at where the hoseclamp is in relation to the hole in the bellows... you need to loosen the hoseclamp and put it in the 12:00 position. No more pinching, no more holes...
excellent video, cant tell what you say much audio so bad.. but at least you dont just talk about the bellows like all others do... you show it and that pivoting assembly you removed so we can see what the bellows connects to. thanks a billion
The old original OMC bellows were of superb design and quality. They would easily last 20 years here in Finland. The new ones are appallingly bad. I just received one and I am actually shocked. They do not seal by parts pressure but are mostly just glued from that outer end. The new ones are made of chinese "rubber" that really can last only 3 years. Old ones were little difficult to get the double cardan joint through without first warming them soft with a hair dryer, but they lasted long and did not leak. I just ordered that new one, but most propably will keep the old OMC one that has been in place for 15 years now. The new one is not actual rubber, but like Jeep front cv shaft bellows, some kind of not-enough-soft plastic. And the original Jeep ones just fail. So, unless I find old stock OMC old ones, I will not replace the bellows untill it leaks. One also must remember that they must be assembled with most "ribs" straight downwards to be flexible in a right way.
Check the position of the screw clamp for the drive shaft bellows clamp. It should be in the 1--->2 O'clock position (from my '88 OMC factory shop manual), if not, then the screw head could contact the bellows on tight turns. The OMC gasket sealer is the right stuff to use. Make sure that when you slide the bellows in, the internal rib engages the groove in the gimble housing flange.
I have a 1995 omc with a cone drive or shifter. I’m trying to replace the u-joint bellow for the first time. At first I bought a generic brand online, and couldn’t get the thing on the pivot housing. I bought a oem bellow thinking it would fit better, but nope. Is there a trick to you used to get these things in?
I have an Alpha one and a small hole has come in the bellows in the same place as OMC Guy from the clamp , can does this bellows have to have grease in it before putting the drive on, I was going to put Bellows adhesive on the hole to get me until the end of September, is this a good idea, and should I pump a little grease in first. Also I only found out because a white cream leaked out after a day on the bay last Saturday
You said you replaced the bellows multiple times have you ever attempted the U-Joint bellows repair without removing the pivot housing. It appears that I can get to the back strap from under the housing. Thanks for the video.
I know removing the pivot housing can be a chore. Shift cable mainly. You can remove shift cable from transom bracket and try to pull slack back on pivot housing to make it easier and once loose spin the pivot housing off the cable. Also keep in mind the reference point of where the Cclamp is located. Either at the 2 or 3 o'clock position to avoid binding. It's referenced in the omc manual. If you need exact let me know.
I’m having trouble with my exhaust bellow. I noticed it came off the outdrive. It seems there is no clamp at the end. How do you put on a c clamp? Looks like they had used a glue or contact cement
Just picked up an omc 190 in a 89 four Winns freedom. Where can I get a repair manual for this omc? I’ve looked around and all I am finding is a owners manual. I do my own work so having your videos as help and a manual for guidance would be a huge help.
I did finally find a Seloc manual #3404 that covers the 4.3L. I haven’t ordered it yet. Was hoping to run across a used one on eBay or something. Had her in the water today and the bellows are really leaking. I’m hoping it’s just the bellows and not much else. Transom sounds solid. Since I’ll be in it anyways I’m going to pull the transom assembly and put a new seal down. Probably going to pull the motor out next weekend and see how much damage there is from the water leak. Thanks for the reply. If you have a repair manual for the 4.3 1989 model I’d gladly purchase it from you.
I have a collection of factory omc manuals . There are many models and alot of the manuals do not have dates. I'd have to dig for info to see if I have the manual you need. Model number on both motor and out drive would help. I had purchased the whole collection years ago from a retired omc mechanic out of New York along with specialty tools.
I my be mistaken but a quick look at the video looks like you put gasket sealer all over the gimble bearing? Not a good idea.. Maybe thats grease I am seeing?
Benzproducts. Thanks for taking interest and watching. I have been experimenting with different marine greases and that particular type was that tannish brown on the Gimbal bearing. Not gasket sealer
If it’s not already been said: the bellows leak is caused by the hoseclamp directly above the driveshaft bellows- tilt the outdrive up and take a look at where the hoseclamp is in relation to the hole in the bellows...
you need to loosen the hoseclamp and put it in the 12:00 position. No more pinching, no more holes...
excellent video, cant tell what you say much audio so bad.. but at least you dont just talk about the bellows like all others do... you show it and that pivoting assembly you removed so we can see what the bellows connects to. thanks a billion
The old original OMC bellows were of superb design and quality. They would easily last 20 years here in Finland. The new ones are appallingly bad. I just received one and I am actually shocked. They do not seal by parts pressure but are mostly just glued from that outer end. The new ones are made of chinese "rubber" that really can last only 3 years. Old ones were little difficult to get the double cardan joint through without first warming them soft with a hair dryer, but they lasted long and did not leak. I just ordered that new one, but most propably will keep the old OMC one that has been in place for 15 years now. The new one is not actual rubber, but like Jeep front cv shaft bellows, some kind of not-enough-soft plastic. And the original Jeep ones just fail. So, unless I find old stock OMC old ones, I will not replace the bellows untill it leaks. One also must remember that they must be assembled with most "ribs" straight downwards to be flexible in a right way.
Check the position of the screw clamp for the drive shaft bellows clamp. It should be in the 1--->2 O'clock position (from my '88 OMC factory shop manual), if not, then the screw head could contact the bellows on tight turns. The OMC gasket sealer is the right stuff to use. Make sure that when you slide the bellows in, the internal rib engages the groove in the gimble housing flange.
I have a 1995 omc with a cone drive or shifter. I’m trying to replace the u-joint bellow for the first time. At first I bought a generic brand online, and couldn’t get the thing on the pivot housing. I bought a oem bellow thinking it would fit better, but nope. Is there a trick to you used to get these things in?
I have an Alpha one and a small hole has come in the bellows in the same place as OMC Guy from the clamp , can does this bellows have to have grease in it before putting the drive on, I was going to put Bellows adhesive on the hole to get me until the end of September, is this a good idea, and should I pump a little grease in first. Also I only found out because a white cream leaked out after a day on the bay last Saturday
You said you replaced the bellows multiple times have you ever attempted the U-Joint bellows repair without removing the pivot housing. It appears that I can get to the back strap from under the housing. Thanks for the video.
I know removing the pivot housing can be a chore. Shift cable mainly. You can remove shift cable from transom bracket and try to pull slack back on pivot housing to make it easier and once loose spin the pivot housing off the cable. Also keep in mind the reference point of where the Cclamp is located. Either at the 2 or 3 o'clock position to avoid binding. It's referenced in the omc manual. If you need exact let me know.
If you remove shift cable from transom bracket. The mount on the moter.. be sure not to spin the trunnion.. the cylinder shaped adjuster.
@@omcguy7087 I’m new to omc, I have a 93 I’m about to attempt bellows and gimbal for the first time. Do you have a link/guide step by step? Thanks!
I’m having trouble with my exhaust bellow. I noticed it came off the outdrive. It seems there is no clamp at the end. How do you put on a c clamp? Looks like they had used a glue or contact cement
a big internal circlip is used
Is it ok to put the boat with broken exhaust bellows?
Yes it is found that out that it will be fine myself. Thought the boat would take in water from there but it’s only an exhaust pushing water out
Just picked up an omc 190 in a 89 four Winns freedom. Where can I get a repair manual for this omc? I’ve looked around and all I am finding is a owners manual. I do my own work so having your videos as help and a manual for guidance would be a huge help.
Any possibility you have a part # for the manual you need? What model omc? I have a box full of omc manuals
I did finally find a Seloc manual #3404 that covers the 4.3L. I haven’t ordered it yet. Was hoping to run across a used one on eBay or something. Had her in the water today and the bellows are really leaking. I’m hoping it’s just the bellows and not much else. Transom sounds solid. Since I’ll be in it anyways I’m going to pull the transom assembly and put a new seal down. Probably going to pull the motor out next weekend and see how much damage there is from the water leak. Thanks for the reply. If you have a repair manual for the 4.3 1989 model I’d gladly purchase it from you.
I have a collection of factory omc manuals . There are many models and alot of the manuals do not have dates. I'd have to dig for info to see if I have the manual you need. Model number on both motor and out drive would help. I had purchased the whole collection years ago from a retired omc mechanic out of New York along with specialty tools.
That would be excellent if you have some you’d be willing to part with for some cash. My engine model number is 432APRMED
And the outdrive is 985684
Jon Cunniff check out Wayne coll you tube channel also for some detailed information
I had same problem as Exec Video and as he said hose clamp pinching bellows move clamp no more holes
I my be mistaken but a quick look at the video looks like you put gasket sealer all over the gimble bearing? Not a good idea.. Maybe thats grease I am seeing?
Benzproducts. Thanks for taking interest and watching. I have been experimenting with different marine greases and that particular type was that tannish brown on the Gimbal bearing. Not gasket sealer
Dude, it’s “bellows” with the “s” even if you are referring to just one.