Thank you for this video. Just did the replacement myself, and it worked out just fine. However, there is a tool(that I used) that removes the oil seal at the same time. Happy boating!
The factory manual doesn't go over this procedure, so I used the Clymer manual. On page 463 you will see two reliefs or cut outs on one side of the bearing (1:47 on the video) vs. the other side which is solid (seen on 1:58). On that page you will notice the cut outs or reliefs are facing the bellows. That is why I installed it like I did.
The hardest part is the initial alignment. If it goes in crooked, it's like WW3 to get it out. I recommend to start it with a rubber mallet. If you are wondering if you got it right, check out my engine alignment video--it covers your concerns.
Just to give everyone an update, this bearing is still running great a year later! Don't forget to grease your bearing before taking it out this season. Also, if your stern drive was hard to get out, chances are your engine alignment is off and you MUST fix that before putting your stern drive back. If you install your new gimbal bearing without aligning your engine too--you may get a years worth of use out of the new bearing (if you are lucky). Please watch the rest of my videos!
How much of a gap is between the bearing and that back wall? I can curve my finger and run around the backside of the bearing? is that the amount that should be there?
Hey Michael I love your videos. You seem to be the only person that has any good videos on the Volvo penta. My question is, if I need to add maintenance grease to the gimbal bearing via the nipple. How much do I need to pump in without being able to see with the drive off? Thank you.
Thanks for your comments! I have a really good video on this under my Volvo Penta section. Please subscribe! You stop when you feel any resistance. Also stop if you hear even the slightest popping sound. Could be as few as 5 pumps or as many as 15.
Hi Michael, How often do you squirt grease into the outside Zerk grease fitting? And how much? Where does the excess go if you do squirt too much? Thanks!
I recommend once every boating season. When you pump grease in there, you will likely get two pumps, then there will be resistance. Once the slightest resistance is felt, stop. Please subscribe.
Thanks a lot for your videos well shot focused and well explained. You videos are the most helpful to me so far. Question,can you replace a OMC out drive with something else that’s easier to get parts for? I have a 1996 fourwinns vista and i like to go to a different outdrive.
Sure. But you’re talking about a huge expense. Best thing to do is just sell your boat working & buy one with a Merc in it already. Or. Find a boat complete with the Merc setup you want & rob everything from it from controls to prop.
I have a 23 footer Euro sport WTH 7.4 Yamaha stern drive and I started draining gear oil and this scary part water came out first really clear ,,then gear oil came out and funny thing is oil didn't mix like that milky look ,,the boat been sitting for a good while I be very appreciated if u have any advise I'm new boater guy I'm car mechanic tech past 25 years so I have some idea how works u tube the best good bless
First of all, I love that you have a big block! Second, your drive shaft bellow is toast. It is also called a a u-joint bellow. Check crowleymarine.com. It takes a lot of "blending" to have milky look which you see inside the lower unit from leaking seals. Good news is a bellow is cheap to replace. You will need to check the lower unit oil too by draining it. I have a video that shows nice lower unit oil. If it's milky you need lower unit seals too, at a minimum. Don't forget your upper stern drive unit to transom seals. AKA out drive mounting seals
Try taking the shift cable off the engine bracket and manually pulling it, out then go and check the prop to make sure it is locked in gear. Then try pushing the cable all the way in and then check to see if the prop is locked the other way. This will tell you if your forward gear is damaged. I also have a 5 part video series that talks about these issues. Check them out--the have ESA in the title.
Does this bearing come out backwards? Like if that was mounted to the boat still u would hit it inward to fall out inside the boat technically. Or does it come out opposite?
Hey, My Gimbal bearing also came with another piece. In your video I can see it on the floor. Its a round rubber oringy thing with metal around it. What is that for. You never touched on it in the video
Mercruiser guys/gals will claim it's backwards. The reliefs face the back the way I installed it so technically you could pop out the inner bearing versus the entire gimbal bearing. People install them either way, makes 0 difference.
This is just the alignment tool: www.amazon.com/Mbs-Manufacturing-Inc-Alignment-Mercruiser/dp/B07C38CNYZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529547530&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=omc+gimbal+beat+alignment+tool This is the tool plus the Gimbal bearing installer and removal tool: www.amazon.com/MBS-Manufacturing-Inc-Installer-Mercruiser/dp/B07CSBX6BT/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529547530&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=omc+gimbal+beat+alignment+tool
If you’re worried about the gimble bearing not being installed all the way in,...the measurement from the outer face of the gimble bearing to the outer edge of the transom hole where the bearing goes in is 1 5/8”. I just did mine & checked everything with the alignment tool & an old stern drive shaft as well. The double orings should fully seat into the center of the gimble bearing.
this video has contradicting information. the original instructions are to install the bearing with the more flush side facing the engine. but during install the bearing is placed in the tool with the more "bulging" side facing the engine.
Hey, thanks for your comment. Where the confusion is when I took the old gimbal bearing and placed it on the tool at 4:49. That part of the video, was designed more to show you how the gimbal bearing looks on the installer tool. The easiest way to get this right is to put a mark on the cut outs or reliefs side (there are two distinct notches on one side) of the bearing with a permanent marker. If you see cut outs or reliefs after everything is said and done, you are good to go. On the flip side, Mercruiser people will tell you that the way I install the bearing is backwards; keep in mind there are a lot of politics behind how OMC recommended the Gimbal bearing being installed vs. how Mercruiser people install theirs.
I had the transom out so I beat it out from the other side. Head back to Autozone and get a pilot bearing puller. Before you leave the store, make sure you have the adapter that connects the 5lb slide hammer to the pilot bearing puller. Bottom line, it will take you about 50+ hits to get it out.
Hi - thats the kit we got.. after a few slams it started jumping out - im sure we are right about on the 50 mark. might go give it another bash 2moro-I have ordered a cheapo blind bearing puller and will fab up a steel plate like the 135 buck ones to sit on the gimbal ring and try that if we dont manage with the kit. Yes we have the adapter - ive done this a few times on mercruisers, these OMC things are a royal pita
l have both the engine and the out-drive out at this time (I rebuilt the transom ua-cam.com/video/mYozqpccbQg/v-deo.html ). All I have installed is the gimbal housing on the new transom. My question is: Does it matter whether the engine or the outdrive get installed first? Meaning, will I not be able to align the out-drive if the engine is not yet in?
Engine alignment is key. Set your engine in now that you have the gimbal housing installed. Keep your engine hoist attached to the engine (under zero assistance from the hoist--basically the chains are just sitting there loose) until you have achieved perfect alignment. The reason you keep the hoist attached and loose is you will likely find that that your alignment is way off and you need to move the engine left or right. Don't use the alignment tool to align the engine until the engine is set in place and with the front engine bolts loose. The back ones are fixed and will help you achieve the correct left and right alignment. The front bolts are for up and down. This process will likely take a full day to complete if you are working alone. You have to have near zero resistance on your alignment tool before installing your out drive. If you get the alignment, "just kind of good," you will trash your gimbal bearing inside one year. If you use your alignment tool to initially align your engine before you have it off your hoist, you will break your engine coupler. The engine hoist can be fully removed when the alignment tool can fully seat inside the engine coupler. Check out my alignment video for the specifics. Let's recap. Install engine, keep hoist chains on engine (basically to save time having to reinstall them again when you find out your alignment is way off), take your time if you haven't done this before. This could be considered one of the most important steps in the rebuild process. Don't forget to subscribe and ask follow-up questions
chefgeir I just watched your video. Your alignment ought to be pretty close considering you didn't redo your fiberglass deck under your front motor mounts.
Does this bearing come out backwards? Like if that was mounted to the boat still u would hit it inward to fall out inside the boat technically. Or does it come out opposite?
Thank you for this video. Just did the replacement myself, and it worked out just fine. However, there is a tool(that I used) that removes the oil seal at the same time. Happy boating!
The factory manual doesn't go over this procedure, so I used the Clymer manual. On page 463 you will see two reliefs or cut outs on one side of the bearing (1:47 on the video) vs. the other side which is solid (seen on 1:58). On that page you will notice the cut outs or reliefs are facing the bellows. That is why I installed it like I did.
Did the bearing on the Volvo Sx the other day. Driving it in a a total pain in the ass. Hope I did it well 😉
Thanks for the video.
The hardest part is the initial alignment. If it goes in crooked, it's like WW3 to get it out. I recommend to start it with a rubber mallet. If you are wondering if you got it right, check out my engine alignment video--it covers your concerns.
It's worth noting that the sei replacement bearing (9A-108-01) doesn't have a flush side.
Just to give everyone an update, this bearing is still running great a year later! Don't forget to grease your bearing before taking it out this season. Also, if your stern drive was hard to get out, chances are your engine alignment is off and you MUST fix that before putting your stern drive back. If you install your new gimbal bearing without aligning your engine too--you may get a years worth of use out of the new bearing (if you are lucky). Please watch the rest of my videos!
How much of a gap is between the bearing and that back wall? I can curve my finger and run around the backside of the bearing? is that the amount that should be there?
Aaron Small it's weird having that gap there, but rest assured, that's 100% normal.
4:41...the bearing is backwards for your test fit demo. Slots should be facing aft.
I also noticed this.
Hey Michael I love your videos. You seem to be the only person that has any good videos on the Volvo penta. My question is, if I need to add maintenance grease to the gimbal bearing via the nipple. How much do I need to pump in without being able to see with the drive off? Thank you.
Thanks for your comments! I have a really good video on this under my Volvo Penta section. Please subscribe! You stop when you feel any resistance. Also stop if you hear even the slightest popping sound. Could be as few as 5 pumps or as many as 15.
Michael Romer thank you man. Already subscribed. I appreciate the videos !
Great Video where did you purchase gimbal bearing pull tool and alignment tool?
They have them for the best price on eBay.
Hi Michael,
How often do you squirt grease into the outside Zerk grease fitting? And how much? Where does the excess go if you do squirt too much? Thanks!
I recommend once every boating season. When you pump grease in there, you will likely get two pumps, then there will be resistance. Once the slightest resistance is felt, stop. Please subscribe.
SWEEEET VIDEO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
MICHAEL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good morning, could you put a video or photograph of the connections of the generator cables? Thank you so much
Thanks a lot for your videos well shot focused and well explained. You videos are the most helpful to me so far. Question,can you replace a OMC out drive with something else that’s easier to get parts for? I have a 1996 fourwinns vista and i like to go to a different outdrive.
Sure. But you’re talking about a huge expense. Best thing to do is just sell your boat working & buy one with a Merc in it already. Or. Find a boat complete with the Merc setup you want & rob everything from it from controls to prop.
I have a 23 footer Euro sport WTH 7.4 Yamaha stern drive and I started draining gear oil and this scary part water came out first really clear ,,then gear oil came out and funny thing is oil didn't mix like that milky look ,,the boat been sitting for a good while I be very appreciated if u have any advise I'm new boater guy I'm car mechanic tech past 25 years so I have some idea how works u tube the best good bless
First of all, I love that you have a big block! Second, your drive shaft bellow is toast. It is also called a a u-joint bellow. Check crowleymarine.com. It takes a lot of "blending" to have milky look which you see inside the lower unit from leaking seals. Good news is a bellow is cheap to replace. You will need to check the lower unit oil too by draining it. I have a video that shows nice lower unit oil. If it's milky you need lower unit seals too, at a minimum. Don't forget your upper stern drive unit to transom seals. AKA out drive mounting seals
Does the shaft in the gimbal bearing still turn when the motor is running and in neutral?
Absolutely. It turns all the time. That’s why I recommend running the stern drive down in a level angle to save the u joints in the upper unit.
How to remove the grease tube to the gimbal Bearing???
How u doin my 7.4 wont shift in foward reverse is good but no foward checked cables adjustmint. Thete good any suggestion??? Be apreciated👍👍👍
Try taking the shift cable off the engine bracket and manually pulling it, out then go and check the prop to make sure it is locked in gear. Then try pushing the cable all the way in and then check to see if the prop is locked the other way. This will tell you if your forward gear is damaged. I also have a 5 part video series that talks about these issues. Check them out--the have ESA in the title.
With a 7.4L you've got a King Cobra outdrive. If it's not a cable issue, you've probably got something going on within the outdrive.
I ordered the alignment tool but the bearing installer (disc) didn’t come with it. Where can I purchase?
Does this bearing come out backwards? Like if that was mounted to the boat still u would hit it inward to fall out inside the boat technically. Or does it come out opposite?
Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/Gm0qC68s3Uw/v-deo.html
You installed the bearing facing the wrong direction.
I haven’t heard this comment in years. Scroll to the comments at the very very bottom to see my reply. Thanks and please subscribe!
Hey, My Gimbal bearing also came with another piece. In your video I can see it on the floor. Its a round rubber oringy thing with metal around it. What is that for. You never touched on it in the video
Here you go. ua-cam.com/video/G-G-smYpTTk/v-deo.html
Which way bearing goes brother u said flat to engine bulge to stern ??? U did it backwards???
Mercruiser guys/gals will claim it's backwards. The reliefs face the back the way I installed it so technically you could pop out the inner bearing versus the entire gimbal bearing. People install them either way, makes 0 difference.
hi what tool did you use to drive , the engine alignment and the adaptor, do you have a part # thanks
This is just the alignment tool: www.amazon.com/Mbs-Manufacturing-Inc-Alignment-Mercruiser/dp/B07C38CNYZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1529547530&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=omc+gimbal+beat+alignment+tool
This is the tool plus the Gimbal bearing installer and removal tool: www.amazon.com/MBS-Manufacturing-Inc-Installer-Mercruiser/dp/B07CSBX6BT/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1529547530&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=omc+gimbal+beat+alignment+tool
Hey do you have a video on how to remove and replace a bent prop shaft? Volvo penta xs?
Here you go and please subscribe. Propeller Shaft Assembly Part 1 - OMC Cobra - Evinrude - Johnson - Volvo
ua-cam.com/video/sdjgHLuktrE/v-deo.html
Here’s another one: Propeller Shaft Assembly Part 2 - OMC Cobra - Evinrude - Johnson - Volvo
ua-cam.com/video/lR8qv13m9xY/v-deo.html
A few more: Propeller Shaft Assembly Breakdown - OMC Cobra - Evinrude - Johnson - Volvo
ua-cam.com/video/y0BuenNSc28/v-deo.html
This one is super popular: OMC Cobra Volvo Penta SX Propshaft Housing - Propeller Shaft Seals
ua-cam.com/video/SQTciO9LvZ4/v-deo.html
Try this one too: OMC Cobra/Volvo Penta - Checking for a Bent Propeller Shaft
ua-cam.com/video/833vJqDWGxQ/v-deo.html
you installed the bearing the wrong way did you not?
Lots of people put the notches toward the drive so you can twist the bearing out of it's carrier for replacement.
What do you recommend for getting the outer bearing pieces out?
Replace the entire bearing-it’s not worth taking the bearing apart. A replacement can be found for $20 these days.
Do you have a video on how to adjust the shift linkage on a 1990 omc cobra
monkeymanxxl I'll have one soon
Michael Romer thanks for the timely response, I will subscribe right now.
Do you also preper for agimble for mini helicopter
Hi, can you measure this seal mounting tool ??
How do you know when it's all the way in
I make it flush to the gimbal housing, as seen from looking it, with the stern drive off.
If you’re worried about the gimble bearing not being installed all the way in,...the measurement from the outer face of the gimble bearing to the outer edge of the transom hole where the bearing goes in is 1 5/8”. I just did mine & checked everything with the alignment tool & an old stern drive shaft as well. The double orings should fully seat into the center of the gimble bearing.
this video has contradicting information. the original instructions are to install the bearing with the more flush side facing the engine. but during install the bearing is placed in the tool with the more "bulging" side facing the engine.
Hey, thanks for your comment. Where the confusion is when I took the old gimbal bearing and placed it on the tool at 4:49. That part of the video, was designed more to show you how the gimbal bearing looks on the installer tool. The easiest way to get this right is to put a mark on the cut outs or reliefs side (there are two distinct notches on one side) of the bearing with a permanent marker. If you see cut outs or reliefs after everything is said and done, you are good to go. On the flip side, Mercruiser people will tell you that the way I install the bearing is backwards; keep in mind there are a lot of politics behind how OMC recommended the Gimbal bearing being installed vs. how Mercruiser people install theirs.
how the heck did you get it out? We tried ramming it out with a 2 jaw 5lbs slide hammer form autozone, no luck!!
I had the transom out so I beat it out from the other side. Head back to Autozone and get a pilot bearing puller. Before you leave the store, make sure you have the adapter that connects the 5lb slide hammer to the pilot bearing puller. Bottom line, it will take you about 50+ hits to get it out.
Hi - thats the kit we got.. after a few slams it started jumping out - im sure we are right about on the 50 mark. might go give it another bash 2moro-I have ordered a cheapo blind bearing puller and will fab up a steel plate like the 135 buck ones to sit on the gimbal ring and try that if we dont manage with the kit. Yes we have the adapter - ive done this a few times on mercruisers, these OMC things are a royal pita
Mine came out in 3 pulls 😁
You must have figured it out by now, but for the record: You drill 3 6.5mm holes in the carrier ring and break it with a chisel.
l have both the engine and the out-drive out at this time (I rebuilt the transom ua-cam.com/video/mYozqpccbQg/v-deo.html ). All I have installed is the gimbal housing on the new transom. My question is: Does it matter whether the engine or the outdrive get installed first? Meaning, will I not be able to align the out-drive if the engine is not yet in?
Engine alignment is key. Set your engine in now that you have the gimbal housing installed. Keep your engine hoist attached to the engine (under zero assistance from the hoist--basically the chains are just sitting there loose) until you have achieved perfect alignment. The reason you keep the hoist attached and loose is you will likely find that that your alignment is way off and you need to move the engine left or right. Don't use the alignment tool to align the engine until the engine is set in place and with the front engine bolts loose. The back ones are fixed and will help you achieve the correct left and right alignment. The front bolts are for up and down. This process will likely take a full day to complete if you are working alone. You have to have near zero resistance on your alignment tool before installing your out drive. If you get the alignment, "just kind of good," you will trash your gimbal bearing inside one year. If you use your alignment tool to initially align your engine before you have it off your hoist, you will break your engine coupler. The engine hoist can be fully removed when the alignment tool can fully seat inside the engine coupler. Check out my alignment video for the specifics. Let's recap. Install engine, keep hoist chains on engine (basically to save time having to reinstall them again when you find out your alignment is way off), take your time if you haven't done this before. This could be considered one of the most important steps in the rebuild process. Don't forget to subscribe and ask follow-up questions
chefgeir I just watched your video. Your alignment ought to be pretty close considering you didn't redo your fiberglass deck under your front motor mounts.
Hey everyone! I updated this video. Check out my new video here ua-cam.com/video/Gm0qC68s3Uw/v-deo.html
I lost the will to live listening to you just talking and secondly you didn't show any of the work
Please subscribe ua-cam.com/video/Gm0qC68s3Uw/v-deo.htmlsi=SpFj0EObBN2V-oOx
Does this bearing come out backwards? Like if that was mounted to the boat still u would hit it inward to fall out inside the boat technically. Or does it come out opposite?
Watch this: ua-cam.com/video/Gm0qC68s3Uw/v-deo.html