I am laughing out loud at your comment. Today instead of swapping out the whole control arm on the right side I decided to try just swapping out the ball joint. I ground off the rivets and hammered for about 45 minutes to no avail. The rivets would not budge. So I finally decided to remove the ball joint nut and separate it from the knuckle. Then I whacked on the ball joint and it finally came out. The rivets seem to be welded to the ball joint, but I was trying to hammer them out like a bolt! Took me about 2 1/2 hours, but probably should’ve taken 30 minutes. You can buy the entire control arm assembly’s from rock auto or AutoZone.
Great video, what type of noise did the front end make? I have a 2013 and the front end is making a bumping noise at slower speeds on small bumpy surfaces that's driving me nuts...
Sounds similar. Any type of movement of the wheel and the lower control arm ball joint might squeak/squeal. There is a lot of movement and if it is dry, it will be metal on metal.
It might have been way easier to remove the bolt (obscured by the sway bar) and to install the new control arm if you had jacked up the wheel/brake disc (compress the suspension to its normal/working/loaded state). I think this might be the proper way to do it so things "align"/fit properly. The bolts are tightened with front suspension in its normally loaded state.
FNA bro...2010 Outlook.. ???do I have to replace the entire unit cuz I already replaced the front bushings and now the rears are bad and it seems like I need a compression tool to fit that rear 1 in or do I have to buy the whole arm with the unit installed that's my question
Well yeah you took it to them with that hammer...could have damaged the rubber bushings sleeve...I doubt it tho...jack up the rotor assembly and the while unit slides right out. I dont have a compression tool for the rear so imma get the unit without the front bushing... but for 160 for two lower control arms is savings. Dealer want 1000 easy. Ty bro good job. Cant wait to post mine....I have a rub and I believe it's the rears. . So i did shocks stabilize bar bushing lower control arm so its already quieter than before
@@mattstallion7453 Well I replaced my sway bar bushings, which were pretty worn. The right side was worse than the left. I took of the sway bar links so I could move it up and down. When I did that it made noise. I think the bushings were letting it move around too much. I also replaced the lower control arm bushings (again since I did it two years ago) since I had the car up and was down there. They were only $20 each on sale. About half my noise went away. I have a clicking that I think is coming from the power steering. The power steering was replaced twice under warranty early on. Doing it again will cost as much as the car is worth probably...
Next time just do the ball joints and front lower control arm bushing that's what goes bad anyway, you spent a lot 💰 and wasted time and aggravation. MEVOTECH Parts?
Do you had to get a wheel alignment after doing this
I’m glad you figured everything out.
If you put your jack stand under that sway bar link and lower your jack a little it will put pressure on it and push it up out of your way
Thank you!
Where did you get the complete a arm for the swap? So much easier than taking the old stuff out of the arm.
I am laughing out loud at your comment. Today instead of swapping out the whole control arm on the right side I decided to try just swapping out the ball joint. I ground off the rivets and hammered for about 45 minutes to no avail. The rivets would not budge. So I finally decided to remove the ball joint nut and separate it from the knuckle. Then I whacked on the ball joint and it finally came out. The rivets seem to be welded to the ball joint, but I was trying to hammer them out like a bolt! Took me about 2 1/2 hours, but probably should’ve taken 30 minutes. You can buy the entire control arm assembly’s from rock auto or AutoZone.
Great video, what type of noise did the front end make? I have a 2013 and the front end is making a bumping noise at slower speeds on small bumpy surfaces that's driving me nuts...
Sounds similar. Any type of movement of the wheel and the lower control arm ball joint might squeak/squeal. There is a lot of movement and if it is dry, it will be metal on metal.
@@fiveyorks Thanks, mine isn't metal on metal...
Could be the swaybar links in the front.
sway bar links
At 9:20 could just slide the arm downward into the opening then maybe a tap with a hammer.. no need for the C-clamp, etc.
It might have been way easier to remove the bolt (obscured by the sway bar) and to install the new control arm if you had jacked up the wheel/brake disc (compress the suspension to its normal/working/loaded state). I think this might be the proper way to do it so things "align"/fit properly. The bolts are tightened with front suspension in its normally loaded state.
It's been a while since I've done this, but I think you are right. Since then I got a jack that will work on things like this.
Work like a charm bro
FNA bro...2010 Outlook..
???do I have to replace the entire unit cuz I already replaced the front bushings and now the rears are bad and it seems like I need a compression tool to fit that rear 1 in or do I have to buy the whole arm with the unit installed that's my question
Not sure about those bushings. But I have a bad noise in mine again and will have to get in there and see if my bushings are shot.
Well yeah you took it to them with that hammer...could have damaged the rubber bushings sleeve...I doubt it tho...jack up the rotor assembly and the while unit slides right out. I dont have a compression tool for the rear so imma get the unit without the front bushing... but for 160 for two lower control arms is savings. Dealer want 1000 easy. Ty bro good job. Cant wait to post mine....I have a rub and I believe it's the rears. . So i did shocks stabilize bar bushing lower control arm so its already quieter than before
@@mattstallion7453 Well I replaced my sway bar bushings, which were pretty worn. The right side was worse than the left. I took of the sway bar links so I could move it up and down. When I did that it made noise. I think the bushings were letting it move around too much.
I also replaced the lower control arm bushings (again since I did it two years ago) since I had the car up and was down there. They were only $20 each on sale. About half my noise went away.
I have a clicking that I think is coming from the power steering. The power steering was replaced twice under warranty early on. Doing it again will cost as much as the car is worth probably...
Next time just do the ball joints and front lower control arm bushing that's what goes bad anyway, you spent a lot 💰 and wasted time and aggravation.
MEVOTECH Parts?
actually I just did this last week, it was cheaper for a new lower control arm than the individual parts were, go figure