Great video. Before you lower the steering column,be sure you disconnect the thin wire that is connected to the gear shift, which displays park, reverse, drive. The wire is on the underside of the steering column.
I think some of the problems you had like having to release that module under the cup holder and the heater box were fairly foreseeable and if you had done that to start with it would have not been necessary to cut that padding. Having said that, this is the most detailed instruction video yet and the one I would point people too. Excellent work...
Excellent video and explanation. Thank you so much for making the video and uploading it. I replaced the leaky heater core in my 2001 Dodge Ram today and your video was extremely helpful. I started by removing the glove box (very easy) and then found your video and followed your steps except for cutting the foam. While not necessary I found it helpful to have another place to reach and look through with the glove box out of there. I was just able to wiggle the new core into position after loosening the nuts on the bolts that run through the firewall as you described. And yes that little phillips screw way under there is a pain! It will be nice to have a functioning window defroster/defogger again.
I want to thank you for this video.. This video gave me the confidence to do mine.. You saved me $970 by showing me how to do this job. Thank you very much
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.9L Took just under 2 hrs. I pulled the dash and tied the right hand side up to the passengers grab handle.I agree with Duane Piercey that It was not necessary to cut the foam or loosen anything on the firewall. It just takes some strategic torque and some manipulating of the swivel type pipes to get the heater core back in it's place. Thank you for this vid, it gave me the confidence to try this repair myself and saved me at least $600.00
Dude your trick of cutting the foam pad out of the way w/razor blade then having to loosen the box holding the core will save me some time! ... "Where there's a WILLIS there's a WAY" is what dad always told me! Thanks again for your video!
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram and I must say, a Chiltons manual pays for itself. Thanks for the video, it helped to see what everything looks like before tackling.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I would just add to make sure at the end to bleed out all the air bubbles in the system when you flush the system out.
You totally saved me a lot of time with this video. You made removing the dash a cinch. I agree with Duane on getting the core to slide in. It worked for me just like he said. The secret may be getting the dash out a little more by pulling the shifter all the way down to 1 position. That will give you plenty of room to work in there. The screw in the back comes out much easier with a flex shaft. I might be able to do this entire job in a little more than an hour with the help of this video. THANKS A LOT!!!
I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 and this was the best video of the three i viewed. Thank you again for taking the time to make this! The only thing i didnt have to do was cut my foam on the fire wall like you did(of course that was in part because of your suggestions!
Thanks for your video and showing troubles that u ran in to that was great honesty and very helpful . Hats off to your video I did my core install in 4 hours, then hooked up the core.
spot on!!! you saved me 650 bucks by posting your video!!! THANK YOU.. iwas quoted my regular service guy 6 hrs plus parts. i spent 120 on core and fluid. ive had a deisel for 12 years late model 01and 300k miles and is very close, the lines off the new core are movable and made it easier. the dash details were a huge help. it was a good day. CHEERS!
SO Ive just replaced my heater core.... I was able to install the new replacement heater core without taking the hvac plastic off the firewall. I didnt have to cut the foam as well. You position the tubes to the left and down a little bit. You are right the heater core is then at a slight off angle for slipping in. But with a little gentle force you can flex the tubes as you twist the heatercore and start to get it in the slot. Grabbing the tubes and wiggling them through the firewall, and working the heatercore downwards, it will start to go into place. At the very end where the core has to seat, it was still slightly twisted, didnt seem like it would seat and the tubes seems to be tight against one another, like it was the wrong part that I had. But with a firm twist the core sank into final position and the tubes separaed as the originals looked. That screw on the tubing clamp right next to the firewall..... is a huge pain to get, get the shortest stubby phillips screw driver or fin an L-Shaped phillips bit.... like an allen wrench type. Thanks again for the video... it helped me so much.
angle the tubes downward (sorry no video) to get them going into the firewall holes.. pull the base of the heater core to the top of the slot that it fits in... it will be slightly off of parallel with it.. but by holding the lines and guiding them to the firewall, you can twist the base of the heater core to mate up in the slot and then push it downward. and all will fall into place
Well many years later your comment has helped me lol, read what you did walked over to heatercore that was started and gave one firm twist fell right in no cutting, no unbolting from dash, 1999 ram 3500 👍
I'd like to point out something i think some may have over looked. I see some referring to pulling the ac heater box from the wall. But in the vid you see the lines cut for removal. This isn't an option for me, but when my heater core croaked i didn't have time for replacement, i just made a "U" loop out of half inch copper and took the core out of the loop, i used the factory clamps and it hasn't leaked at all, now its cold and I'm gonna put the core in. The option I'm referring to is cutting the lines on the new core and just slipping some heater hose over the cut and securing the splice with two hose clamps on ea end, granted you'll have a connection point inside the cab, but hoses are used under the hood, so this should work, you may have to stagger the cuts so the clamps aren't side by side but this should eliminate having to work under the hood to drop the entire ac heater box from the firewall and save about 2hrs of labor , as for me i have A slight case of OCD so everything has to go back perfect just the way it came out or better. thus making this not an option for me.. good luck if anyone tries this please let me know how you make out ThxU
joseph barton I know this thread is old but I'm about to tackle my 01 and the way you mention here is my objective I'll let you know how it turns out thank you for the idea.
I just wanted to say, great video....and that I have done several of the after market heater core's....there is a bit of a trick to get them to go but they do slide in without all the extra work you did...I just replaced a radiator and a heater core a couple of days ago for a co-worker in about 5 hours for both...
I saw another video and to get the core to fit in the box the guy just cut away one of the top corners and it fit right in, then he epoxied it back in place after the install was done. BIG time saver. Look for that video and between the two the job will be doable and only take a couple of hours. I'll chime back in when mine is done
The ground strap prevents electrolysis of the heater core. there is no need to cut the insulation on the cowling, loosen heater/ac box in front like shown. after heater core is removed. take a hack saw and cut the plastic that the core slides into. then use a good 3M tape to tape up the plastic that was removed around the installed heater core. removal and replace of heater core is only 2 hours!
Just did mine. not as hard as I thought it would be.video helped me out alot didn't have to cut the foam but I also don't have ac lines so the hole heater box came out could unbolt the ac compressor so u can pull the box out farther that was probably your issue
thank you so soo much! I'm about to do a heater core on a 2003 ram 1500 only it's a manual trans. I'm hoping it isn't a whole lot different other than center console removal.
thank you great video . the only question I have before i dive into mine is , that second clip (without the ground wire) was it inside the cabin or outside under the hood?
That heater core is very similar to a 07 Ford F-150. I had to take the steering wheel off and disassemble the whole dash. You want to take the whole A/C - heater unit clear out of the truck so you can flush all the antifreeze out that leaked into the unit cause otherwise it leaves a film in the unit that will cause your windows to fog up every time you turn on the heater. Plus it stinks.
This video has helped me however the screw holding pipes thats hard to get to I cannot get out almost seems stripped but also cnt get screwdriver on it straight I have cut pad out of way much as I can
I helped a friend do this today. The new heater core has tubes that swivel. Unfortunately, that was not sufficient to drop the new core into the HVAC box. We had to remove the computer in the engine compartment to access the two nuts on bolts coming through the firewall (passenger side far left firewall) just as this video shows, and then one nut on bolt in center of firewall (above the transmission dipstick in video). That was not enough to loosen the box. At 15:00 in this video, there is another nut holding onto a long bolt in the upper right side of dash, passenger side by the kick panel. That one has to come off. That allowed us to pull the box forward and slip the new core in. One more comment about the lone bolt in center of firewall. It came off from the back of the HVAC box as we were trying to reinsert it through its hole in the firewall. It took some time to reposition it. Could Dodge have made this repair more difficult?
Thanks for showing us this! Maybe this would be easier for me than replacing my starter, because I don't have access to a hoist; or other things way down there like that.
OK J Willis ... thank your for that video cause I'm about to tear into my 2000 Dodge Ram ... I really appreciate the reminder to disconnect the battery to keep air bag from breakin my face! Yours truly, R Willis
I want to thank you for this video. I am doing my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. I estimate it will be done in at least 3 hours thanks to you. I do have one question that is different in my truck than what I see on the video. The screws that are on the dash close to the windshield, my top panel don't seem to have them or do you know if it is covered by the top paneling? I appreciate this video as it will save me a lot of money and time.
Great video man just didn't like the skipped part Ive got my dash unbolted took the skin off of it only to find out that the original dash is in pieces. This is a nightmare for me. Starting to wish that id bypassed the heater core by connecting the Hosea together
you have to go in the hood there is the black air tank take that loose it there is a bolt there one behide the computer to right hand side that i bolt to the right hand side under the window blower one on were the ground wire is you have to pull out the blower big black case out then put it on have fun just did it 3 hrs ago
Good Vid. i guess some one could cut the aluminum tube lines and just run the Rubber cooling hoses closer to the heater core if u could not or did not want to pull the heater core box away from the firewall. or use compression fittings on the aluminum tubing if someone was to cut them and put them through the holes then rejoin them mid point.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. That sounds like a easier way do you suggest a way to keep the rubber hose from rubbing a hole causing a leak? Just asking thanks
Paul Landin No dude you have to drop down the dashboard. It took me around 5 hours to do everything and the next day when i came to work my heater core was leaking in the cab.. make sure that the new heater core your going to install dont have play on each tube
OMG! Cut those stupid aluminum hoses on the heatercore & run high temp rubber hoses through the fire wall & hose clamps to hold the hoses on.. Easy, safe, & reliable
"If you can see that one on the other side, then we're gonna undo that one"? I bet you anything that you'd undo that one even if we couldn't see it, ha!
number 8 socket? You mean 8mm? Number 13? You mean 13mm? Star drivers? You mean torx bits? lol good job! It dont matter what ya callem as long as the job is done. Call the snickers bars for all I care. Meet with success is final tally.
Me too. I think I have been running a bypass for 5 years. I bought a heater core and new hoses 3 years ago but when I figured out how hard it was going to be, I have been putting it off.
give you a b-for effort would have saved you time to drain the ac and pull the whole box out instead of butchering up the heater core ive replaced several of these heater cores but to each his own i guess
I understand what you are saying but I would rather spend a few hours working on the install then spend the money to charge the system. For me, the whole idea of doing it yourself is to save money. Thanks.
Do yourself a favor and have the wind shield pulled before you start. You wont have the cut the pad or remove the blower unit bolts either. Job takes 2 hours this way.
Hi you just gave me one more reason not to buy a DODGE TRUCK Great video to bad you did not have help filming Thanks I have a 2001 Dodge Ram aaaahhhhhhhhhhh
Anthony Lamanna Anthony did not mean to offend you at all. As I said great video. But my Dodge Ram did nothing but cost me money Sold it last month. The Dodge to me is nothing but a bucket of rust. Keep making videos they do help. Mine had 107,000 miles every seal broke plus other stuff all i did was fix it,
Thank you sir! I was rite there at pulling the black box off of the firewall when I came to consult UA-cam. You helped me 100%.
Great video. Before you lower the steering column,be sure you disconnect the thin wire that is connected to the gear shift, which displays park, reverse, drive. The wire is on the underside of the steering column.
I think some of the problems you had like having to release that module under the cup holder and the heater box were fairly foreseeable and if you had done that to start with it would have not been necessary to cut that padding. Having said that, this is the most detailed instruction video yet and the one I would point people too. Excellent work...
Excellent video and explanation. Thank you so much for making the video and uploading it. I replaced the leaky heater core in my 2001 Dodge Ram today and your video was extremely helpful. I started by removing the glove box (very easy) and then found your video and followed your steps except for cutting the foam. While not necessary I found it helpful to have another place to reach and look through with the glove box out of there. I was just able to wiggle the new core into position after loosening the nuts on the bolts that run through the firewall as you described. And yes that little phillips screw way under there is a pain! It will be nice to have a functioning window defroster/defogger again.
1
I want to thank you for this video.. This video gave me the confidence to do mine.. You saved me $970 by showing me how to do this job. Thank you very much
2001 Dodge Ram 1500 Sport 5.9L Took just under 2 hrs. I pulled the dash and tied the right hand side up to the passengers grab handle.I agree with Duane Piercey that It was not necessary to cut the foam or loosen anything on the firewall. It just takes some strategic torque and some manipulating of the swivel type pipes to get the heater core back in it's place. Thank you for this vid, it gave me the confidence to try this repair myself and saved me at least $600.00
Dude your trick of cutting the foam pad out of the way w/razor blade then having to loosen the box holding the core will save me some time! ... "Where there's a WILLIS there's a WAY" is what dad always told me! Thanks again for your video!
I enjoyed watching your video. You are very knowledgeable. And now I'm going to attempt it on my own. Thank you so much
I have a 1999 Dodge Ram and I must say, a Chiltons manual pays for itself. Thanks for the video, it helped to see what everything looks like before tackling.
Awesome video. Thanks for sharing. I would just add to make sure at the end to bleed out all the air bubbles in the system when you flush the system out.
You totally saved me a lot of time with this video. You made removing the dash a cinch. I agree with Duane on getting the core to slide in. It worked for me just like he said. The secret may be getting the dash out a little more by pulling the shifter all the way down to 1 position. That will give you plenty of room to work in there. The screw in the back comes out much easier with a flex shaft. I might be able to do this entire job in a little more than an hour with the help of this video. THANKS A LOT!!!
I woukd also like to thank you for taking the time giving every step in details. keep making videos like this, very helpfull.
excellent video. You went in and figured it out. Killed it man. I'll be doing mine now, thanks.
I have a 99 Dodge Ram 1500 and this was the best video of the three i viewed. Thank you again for taking the time to make this! The only thing i didnt have to do was cut my foam on the fire wall like you did(of course that was in part because of your suggestions!
Thank you very much, your video gave me the confidence to do the work myself. You saved me time and money. Great video.
Thanks for your video and showing troubles that u ran in to that was great honesty and very helpful . Hats off to your video I did my core install in 4 hours, then hooked up the core.
spot on!!! you saved me 650 bucks by posting your video!!! THANK YOU.. iwas quoted my regular service guy 6 hrs plus parts. i spent 120 on core and fluid. ive had a deisel for 12 years late model 01and 300k miles and is very close, the lines off the new core are movable and made it easier. the dash details were a huge help. it was a good day. CHEERS!
Thanks for posting this! Just did the heater core in my 01 Ram.
Thank you sir I have the exact same truck, great to know the method before I start the tear out. I really appreciate it.
SO Ive just replaced my heater core.... I was able to install the new replacement heater core without taking the hvac plastic off the firewall. I didnt have to cut the foam as well. You position the tubes to the left and down a little bit. You are right the heater core is then at a slight off angle for slipping in. But with a little gentle force you can flex the tubes as you twist the heatercore and start to get it in the slot. Grabbing the tubes and wiggling them through the firewall, and working the heatercore downwards, it will start to go into place. At the very end where the core has to seat, it was still slightly twisted, didnt seem like it would seat and the tubes seems to be tight against one another, like it was the wrong part that I had. But with a firm twist the core sank into final position and the tubes separaed as the originals looked. That screw on the tubing clamp right next to the firewall..... is a huge pain to get, get the shortest stubby phillips screw driver or fin an L-Shaped phillips bit.... like an allen wrench type. Thanks again for the video... it helped me so much.
How far high or low to the left? Angle? Which way? Have video? Don't want to unscrew firewall. Thanks
angle the tubes downward (sorry no video) to get them going into the firewall holes.. pull the base of the heater core to the top of the slot that it fits in... it will be slightly off of parallel with it.. but by holding the lines and guiding them to the firewall, you can twist the base of the heater core to mate up in the slot and then push it downward. and all will fall into place
Well many years later your comment has helped me lol, read what you did walked over to heatercore that was started and gave one firm twist fell right in no cutting, no unbolting from dash, 1999 ram 3500 👍
Thanks!! your video, as well as a couple of others, made this job a whole lot easier....
I'd like to point out something i think some may have over looked. I see some referring to pulling the ac heater box from the wall. But in the vid you see the lines cut for removal. This isn't an option for me, but when my heater core croaked i didn't have time for replacement, i just made a "U" loop out of half inch copper and took the core out of the loop, i used the factory clamps and it hasn't leaked at all, now its cold and I'm gonna put the core in. The option I'm referring to is cutting the lines on the new core and just slipping some heater hose over the cut and securing the splice with two hose clamps on ea end, granted you'll have a connection point inside the cab, but hoses are used under the hood, so this should work, you may have to stagger the cuts so the clamps aren't side by side but this should eliminate having to work under the hood to drop the entire ac heater box from the firewall and save about 2hrs of labor , as for me i have A slight case of OCD so everything has to go back perfect just the way it came out or better. thus making this not an option for me.. good luck if anyone tries this please let me know how you make out ThxU
joseph barton I know this thread is old but I'm about to tackle my 01 and the way you mention here is my objective I'll let you know how it turns out thank you for the idea.
I just wanted to say, great video....and that I have done several of the after market heater core's....there is a bit of a trick to get them to go but they do slide in without all the extra work you did...I just replaced a radiator and a heater core a couple of days ago for a co-worker in about 5 hours for both...
Watched your video and with just a little help-I had the entire job done in 4hours!!!!
Love you Thanks so much saved me 1500.00
Awesome video, this saved me a whole lot of time. Thanks for the upload.
Travis
Hey man thanks for the video it was incredibly helpful these things are a bear to change just like the lower ball joints
great job on instruction. followed them it took 3.5 hrs.
I saw another video and to get the core to fit in the box the guy just cut away one of the top corners and it fit right in, then he epoxied it back in place after the install was done. BIG time saver. Look for that video and between the two the job will be doable and only take a couple of hours. I'll chime back in when mine is done
The ground strap prevents electrolysis of the heater core. there is no need to cut the insulation on the cowling, loosen heater/ac box in front like shown. after heater core is removed. take a hack saw and cut the plastic that the core slides into. then use a good 3M tape to tape up the plastic that was removed around the installed heater core. removal and replace of heater core is only 2 hours!
i just did mine in 3 hrs ty for the instructions great help
Just did mine. not as hard as I thought it would be.video helped me out alot didn't have to cut the foam but I also don't have ac lines so the hole heater box came out could unbolt the ac compressor so u can pull the box out farther that was probably your issue
thank you so soo much! I'm about to do a heater core on a 2003 ram 1500 only it's a manual trans. I'm hoping it isn't a whole lot different other than center console removal.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. Great job.
thank you great video . the only question I have before i dive into mine is , that second clip (without the ground wire) was it inside the cabin or outside under the hood?
That heater core is very similar to a 07 Ford F-150. I had to take the steering wheel off and disassemble the whole dash. You want to take the whole A/C - heater unit clear out of the truck so you can flush all the antifreeze out that leaked into the unit cause otherwise it leaves a film in the unit that will cause your windows to fog up every time you turn on the heater. Plus it stinks.
thanks for the video changed my heater core today in 2hrs no problem
Hey great video..I have a standard floor shift Dodge would the process of replacing the heater core be similar? Thx 😀
This video has helped me however the screw holding pipes thats hard to get to I cannot get out almost seems stripped but also cnt get screwdriver on it straight I have cut pad out of way much as I can
No, the ground strap is meant to help keep anodization (stray electrical charges) from corroding the core.
I helped a friend do this today. The new heater core has tubes that swivel. Unfortunately, that was not sufficient to drop the new core into the HVAC box. We had to remove the computer in the engine compartment to access the two nuts on bolts coming through the firewall (passenger side far left firewall) just as this video shows, and then one nut on bolt in center of firewall (above the transmission dipstick in video). That was not enough to loosen the box. At 15:00 in this video, there is another nut holding onto a long bolt in the upper right side of dash, passenger side by the kick panel. That one has to come off. That allowed us to pull the box forward and slip the new core in. One more comment about the lone bolt in center of firewall. It came off from the back of the HVAC box as we were trying to reinsert it through its hole in the firewall. It took some time to reposition it. Could Dodge have made this repair more difficult?
Thanks for the vid! It totally helped me get the job done!! Screw all the ass clowns that have nothing good to say.
Time to do mine. Thanks for doing this video.
Thank you it only took me three hours thanks to you 👍
Thanks for posting this video. It's a huge help !!!
this video helped alot did mine in 3hrs
Thanks for showing us this! Maybe this would be easier for me than replacing my starter, because I don't have access to a hoist; or other things way down there like that.
OK J Willis ... thank your for that video cause I'm about to tear into my 2000 Dodge Ram ... I really appreciate the reminder to disconnect the battery to keep air bag from breakin my face! Yours truly, R Willis
I want to thank you for this video. I am doing my 2000 Dodge Ram 1500. I estimate it will be done in at least 3 hours thanks to you. I do have one question that is different in my truck than what I see on the video. The screws that are on the dash close to the windshield, my top panel don't seem to have them or do you know if it is covered by the top paneling? I appreciate this video as it will save me a lot of money and time.
awesome video, exactly what I needed. thank you!
If it runs _off_ those 2 lines, then which ones does it run FROM?
Did your steering column drop when you removed those bolts?
Thanks so much for the vid wow! I did way more than that and im stuck so i youtubed it and foud you. Thanks a ton!
Great video man just didn't like the skipped part Ive got my dash unbolted took the skin off of it only to find out that the original dash is in pieces. This is a nightmare for me. Starting to wish that id bypassed the heater core by connecting the Hosea together
you have to go in the hood there is the black air tank take that loose it there is a bolt there one behide the computer to right hand side that i bolt to the right hand side under the window blower one on were the ground wire is you have to pull out the blower big black case out then put it on have fun just did it 3 hrs ago
about to do mine thanks for video
Good Vid. i guess some one could cut the aluminum tube lines and just run the Rubber cooling hoses closer to the heater core if u could not or did not want to pull the heater core box away from the firewall. or use compression fittings on the aluminum tubing if someone was to cut them and put them through the holes then rejoin them mid point.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. That sounds like a easier way do you suggest a way to keep the rubber hose from rubbing a hole causing a leak? Just asking thanks
quick question. do you remember where you got the dash cap?
Here is one place - www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.aspx?Page=37
I'm about to get started on mine.
Alex L I have a 04 dodge ram 1500 do you think it might be possible to do that instead of having to take the whole dash out?
Paul Landin
No dude you have to drop down the dashboard. It took me around 5 hours to do everything and the next day when i came to work my heater core was leaking in the cab.. make sure that the new heater core your going to install dont have play on each tube
Im having the same problem i was going to cut the rubber i didnt want to have to take the heater box thing off but i guess i have to thanks.
No need to cut padding or remove any firewall mounts core slid right in ask how if interested
How? Prefer not to remove screws from firewall. Just the dash. Thanks
how ?
how you know your heater core is bad? symptoms
thanks!
First thing is that you will smell anti-freeze inside the cab.
Windows fog when heater is on, leak under the truck coming from the heater core box drain and the smell.
DON"T cut the pad! its super simple just push up on it with the tubes then slide the core in then fish the pipes though.
OMG! Cut those stupid aluminum hoses on the heatercore & run high temp rubber hoses through the fire wall & hose clamps to hold the hoses on.. Easy, safe, & reliable
how can you not know the evap case has to puled to install that.
Wow, this is not good engineering on Dodge's part. Thank you for your help.
"If you can see that one on the other side, then we're gonna undo that one"? I bet you anything that you'd undo that one even if we couldn't see it, ha!
Those that saved hundreds on the use of this info .Send this guy a couple buck's since he saved you hundreds it be the right thing to do . Just saying
Your supposed to cut the tubes on the new heater core where they are straight
don't need to cut windshield out. our cut pad!!! Undo the four bolts from engine side of fire wall
Great Video , Dodge is so dumb this was way harder then it had too be.
Use heater hose pliers (or needle nose vise grips) and pinch off the heater hoses, then there is no reason to drain the coolant.
I just did mine no cutting it went right in didn't even undo the bolts in the engine compartment
Aron Shackett hey I'm needing to replace mine in a 2001 was yours like his?
"Unscrew those out"? As opposed to... "unscrewing them back in"? :-D
number 8 socket? You mean 8mm? Number 13? You mean 13mm? Star drivers? You mean torx bits? lol good job! It dont matter what ya callem as long as the job is done. Call the snickers bars for all I care. Meet with success is final tally.
This is stupid hard to do. I have gone three or four years without a heater since I chose to bypass instead. Really a weak link in this truck.
Me too. I think I have been running a bypass for 5 years. I bought a heater core and new hoses 3 years ago but when I figured out how hard it was going to be, I have been putting it off.
Dialysisforever lol I’m on the same boat😐
But you will be cold ..brrrr..
give you a b-for effort would have saved you time to drain the ac and pull the whole box out instead of butchering up the heater core ive replaced several of these heater cores but to each his own i guess
I understand what you are saying but I would rather spend a few hours working on the install then spend the money to charge the system. For me, the whole idea of doing it yourself is to save money. Thanks.
"You can't hardly see it"? Meaning that... it's really _easy_ to see it, right? The opposite of that you CAN hardly see it, right?
Do yourself a favor and have the wind shield pulled before you start. You wont have the cut the pad or remove the blower unit bolts either. Job takes 2 hours this way.
Yea, Have them Put a Fresh Windshield in too. helps with visibility if your truck has over 100,000 miles on it.
OcRefrigeration,Hvac & Electrical. Ya visibility is horrible on mine. has little specks all over it with a bad glare
mine 2. soon replace.
Looks like you are in Texas.
Hi you just gave me one more reason not to buy a DODGE TRUCK
Great video to bad you did not have help filming Thanks I have a 2001 Dodge
Ram aaaahhhhhhhhhhh
every truck has heater core issues it's not just a dodge thing.....ive had the worst luck with ford heater cores
Lol you're ignorant.
Anthony Lamanna Anthony did not mean to offend you at all. As I said great video.
But my Dodge Ram did nothing but cost me money Sold it last month. The Dodge
to me is nothing but a bucket of rust. Keep making videos they do help.
Mine had 107,000 miles every seal broke plus other stuff all i did was fix it,
Wait till you buy a ford or Chevy..they aren't easy either..heater cores on any is never fun..
I was going to do my but after this video ? No no I can't do it
I did mine on a -10f day... not fun!
I have no idea what you are doing camera is moving , blured,
You should have removed the dash entirely.
"No water" lol i dont know about you, but i put coolant mixed WITH water in my cooling system
All I can say is Butcher!
You are lying about the time it took you to do this
"Radiator fluid?" REALLY? WTF did you go to "haw ta' bee 'aw mukaneek" school?