1997 Dodge Ram Heater Core Change ►THE EASY WAY
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Heater Core change my way. This is without removing the heater assembly.
Should be applicable to all 1994-2002 Dodge Ram trucks.
Thanks for Watching
For Questions Or Business Inquiries ► thewestcoastroller@gmail.com
Thanks for the video. I just bought my Father-in-law's 98
That he started this project on but has given up on.
Now I have inherited the job. Your Truck looks amazing.
I haven't brought the old girl home yet. But like a kid I'm waiting patiently.
Thanks
Your welcome all the best on the repair!
This was actually a more helpful video. I watched other videos on replacing the heater core for a 2nd Gen Dodge Ram, and it seemed like a lot of folks took so many parts off the truck including the dash assembly. It was overwhelming. This video makes me feel confident I can do this without taking apart the whole interior of my truck! The ratcheting strap is a smart idea too
There are other ways of doing it as stated in some of the comments...this is the way I did it and I haven't had one issue with heater core since filming it. Glad it helped you! 👍😀
I just changed mine didn’t have to modify anything but the firewall insulation I cut it strait down from the top to where the tubes go through the firewall. It went right in no problem. I stitched the insulation back together with tie wire. Super simple
Glad to hear you found another way to install the heater core
We needed a video of that!
You have a great looking truck! I always liked the first generation Ram pickups.
I have a 2001 1/2 ton short bed. That 3500 dually is the top of the line. I can tell you really take good care of it. Your video helped me a lot. I put a new heater core in mine last week. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
These trucks are actually 2nd generation Rams. I meant to say that in my other comment.
Awesome Ryan I'm glad the video helped you...that's why I made it. I really like the second gen Rams too....parts readily available. Take care thanks for your comment
Those constant spring clamps do not keep a tighter connection and we hate the in the dealer life, the reason my lines leaked were due to those clamps wearing out, they are absolutely shit and as a dealer tech I recomend regular worm clamp youll never hear a Tech Recomend those constant tension clamps
I just finished doing the heater core on my wife's 2000. The spectra replacement core with the swivel fittings will, with some patience, slide in. No cutting tubes, dash foam or, as some have suggested, cutting or removing the core box.
As for the strap screw burried under the dash foam...a multi-screwdriver Phillips bit taped into a 1/4" ratcheting wrench worked.
Thanks for the info. Glad to hear you worked it all out and fixed it.
Hello. Do you happened to still have the Spectra part number? Did you ever have leaks after replacement. Seems like the swivel areas could possibly leak after while.
@@hap9915 I can't help you with the part #. I moved the swivels only as much as I had to...less than you might think. 5 years/25,000 miles later and still leak free.
Love how you kept it simple. Not afraid to cut that heater core tube!! Good for you finding a better way. Sometime don't understand manufacturers not making it easier for all. Maybe they figure the risk of coolant dumping hot liquid on you was too much from a bad patch hose inside the dash. Who knows.
I don't know why they don't mount the HC in the engine compartment.....would be so much easier to service! It's all sealed up no leaks! Happy the way it turned out. No more foul coolant smell inside the cab and dash getting fogged up!
West Coast Roller --- and you know how to fix it again five years from now. And how to help others fix it on theirs, if they need help.
Yes....hopefully this will help others with their own repair or at least give them the right direction to take.
🪓🔨🪚😂
Nice job. Saved your hind end a bunch of moolah. Last time I changed one of those I had hot coolant steaming everywhere in my old Ranger. My AC system repair has been working flawlessly for 2 months now. Tell you, it was nice to have AC this summer as hot it was. Winter's coming so heat is good too.
Thanks. Good to hear your repair is holding it's own. Winter is approaching.
Good job. Not sure I would have wanted to tackle that but after seeing your video I think I would do it now. Thanks for the video..
Thanks. I was a little intimidated at first but it went rather well.
I give u a lot of credit doing it I don't have the patients I had my done at a shop
Patience required! I had to slow myself down a little bit at times so I would not miss any steps.
Ok....Here is my update! I tried it your way and all went well except it leaked! Come to find out that the screw clamps I used were so tight I bent the tubes :(. So I went and bought a OEM heater core and paid a shop in Cleveland Ga 75 an hour to pull the whole HVAC box out and do it right. While in there we replaced the AC evap core too...(this was the first summer in 7 years my A/C did not work and he said the evap core had a leak. The amount of leaves in there was unreal....the fan had 30% of the blades plugged with leaves. I now have ice cold AC and hot heat! I went out and bought the outside filter kit from Genos garage that screws over the vents on the outside by the windshield wipers. Wont have that leaf issue any more.
Anyways...just wanted to pass that along and OH WAIT! I bought the AC Dryer from rock auto and it would not fit! I have bought lots of parts from them and never had an issue. So I will think twice next time on that one!
Hope this helps someone!
Thanks again Dalton for your videos!
Hey Garth good update. Sounds like your all fixed up! Good to hear. Mine is still going fine the way I did it no leaks.......although I did not change the A/C evaporator. Sometimes it pays to have someone else do it. Take care and keep on trucking in the Dodge diesel! 👍😀
Who did the work in Cleveland? I need this done, please let me know.
@@jhonwayne1003 Its a small shop there...i think its Ram Specialists
May I ask how long was the labor for this? I’m trying to gauge a price range for someone needing this done
I watched a different video that did not mention the auto transmission cable. I was working while my truck was parked on a hill... Twenty feet later, I managed to get my foot onto the brake while help arrived... yeah - don't forget to disconnect that cable...
Glad you were able to save your truck!....Disconnect the cable!
Dame thats crazy glad you and your trucks alright
Ooppp
Finally someone is using the proper hose clamps. Healthy sounding Cummins diesel engine.
Who would think hose clamps would be so controversial? lol 200K on the engine now... still runs solid.
To put the heater core in if it has a swivel hoses lines you have to angle the lines downward you do not have to put the hoses lines through the firewall and you have to get the actual Corps in first and then the lines will go right into the firewall that's the best way I see how other than cutting the lines
Thanks for the comment. I may have not pulled the dash back far enough to have adequate clearance. I did try and do it the way you described but no go.
you can replace heater core without cutting tubes and with out discharging air condition gas. unbolt heater AC box under the hood cut or disconnect heater hoses from core, take retainer clips off AC tubes so it will pass thru wall far enough, unit will pull back far enough to pull up, reconnect hoses 5/8 id hoses to core before pushing forward against fire wall, it works well with new heater hoses.
great to hear you figured out a way to do it
I've done to many of these, finally put a video up showing how to install it without taking the box out and not cutting the tubes, it'll will go in
Hello. Did you say you have a video that shows how to do it without cutting the tubes?
Of course, I'm here because of a heater problem, but I have a question. Why did you put the cut aluminum pieces back in line? Just talking out loud here, but could you not have just run the hose itself, back to the heater core tubes? Seems like it would have been easier than having to fish those solid aluminum lines through the firewall. Thought...ideas???
That could've worked but there was a few snags, the 2 holes in the firewall for the tubes was too small, the 90 degree bend in the tubes, if you cut off that 90 degree bend there wouldn't be enough room for the clamps, and that's a lot more loose tubing for the pressurized coolant to run through, plus it ups the risk of a leakage, although could possibly work, I personally would only do that if I was in a serious pinch
Great video, how did you connect the tubes together under the dash?
I connected the hoses to the cut pipes first off truck... then feed them through the firewall...then connected them at the water heater
I want to know too
I have to do this on mine, but why not skip the double hose clamps on the core tubes and run hoses from the core to the block?
I suppose that could be done......the diameter of the hose may not fit through the firewall heater blower assembly.
Child support state benefits
ABSOLUTELY do not cut the tubes! You create 4 new leak spots by doing it. #1 He was incorrect on the comment about the clamps. Wrong clamps to use on a hidden system.
Any mechanic worth a damn can notice that this was NOT the correct heater core for this truck. Notice he didnt show you what it looked like after he put the hose on the cut parts. If you look at the original new core he cut it after the the 90 degree turns. when he did this there should have been a perfectly straight section of pipe. when he sets it into position and fed the cut pipes through the firewall it made the pipes be at very high angles to each other back at the cut area. What this means to me is that is was not the right core to begin with. just look at video at 1:38 and around 6:17 and you can see what I'm talking about. Also not showing video of the actual cut area when repaired is a big hint that he didn't want you to see it. The hose that he shows on the pipes that are through the firewall are the same hose inside and connected to the cut pipes, It would be kinked really bad yo make the angle for connection thus no water flow.
West Coast Roller, I have this repair needed for my 96 Ram 1500. How did you connect the 2 cut swivel tubes behind the new heater core?
I cut the tubes to allow clearance to slide new heater core in place.......used squeeze style spring clamps and heater hose to connect it all.
Thanks men was very good you video.
glad to hear it helped!
I have read a lot of reviews of this swivel heater core leaking with in a month to a couple of years has yours leaked or still good?
Haven't had any issues with mine. Napa part.
if you hook them up wrong will it anti-heat?
Thanks for the video very helpful thumbs up to u sir.
Glad you found it helpful
Put some foam tape around the top and bottom of the core like the factory ones so it's doesn't rattle.
never had an issue with rattling but good idea...👍
WCR, I just replaced my HC on my 96 Ram 3500. I went thru the whole process of removing the freon and such. I almost decided to do it the way you just did, but I decided to do it the involved route simply because its a 21 year old truck and I thought it would be a good opportunity to swap out the evaporator while I was in there. Im interested to see how yours does! Nice work!
Yes I contemplated removing the blower unit to replace A/C evaporator but i decided to just do the HC for now. It was a pretty simple job to do and it saved me a lot of money...(about $900 from having a shop do it because I don't have equipment to recharge A/C). Will see how the fix holds together. Thanks for your comment.
@@WestCoastRoller did it hold together well? I do work on the side and I dont have an AC machine either so I'd have to do it this way
@@randallwilkes7746 yes I have had NO issues with any leaks.
I have a 1997 RAM 1500. My blower fan was intermittent meaning sometimes it would blow good and other times blow low. I am going to check it all based on your post. Also, another problem i have is the flapper located somewhere in the vent system. When i have the ac running and i throttle up the flapper closes. When i throttle down the flapper opens back up.Any thoughts or comments on this,
Thanks.
I've never had any issues with the flapper ....not sure on that. Might want to check fan switch.
Ron Jones : Sounds like it's most likely a broken "blend" door (or "flapper", as you call it) inside the HVAC box. Either that or the blend door ACTUATOR may be broken. It controls the blend door(s). Either way, you gotta remove the dash and HVAC box, then inspect, test, and replace whatever is broken in there.
Probably a dumb question but, was it possible to disconnect bent aluminum tubes where the swivel connected to heater core? And then reinstall instead of cutting tubes?
The only way I saw to do it was the way shown in video. I did not want to remove entire dash piece from truck. To this day many years later...no issues whatsoever. Might want to consider changing evaporator while your down there.
How did you determine that the heater core was bad? I am experiencing coolant loss in my 97 3500 but can't find the leak. I suspect the heater core but don't want to go through all this if it is not, in fact, the problem. Are there any other causes of a coolant leak (other than broken hoses, which I do not have)?
Antifreeze smell, leaking coolant inside cab from heater core, loss of heat not getting hot, dash fogging up with blower fan on. I think you could take it in and do a radiator pressure test. If any of the above symptoms exist it's usually heater core.
Bad radiator cap or a blown head gasket could be the reason also!
If its the heater core turn on the heat and make sure u have anti freeze in the coolant system and u will smell anti freeze in the cab if its leaking turn heater on high
As a mechanic, I will tell you we always throw those shit clamps away and replace with a USA clamp you tighten. The only reason they need retightened is because the hose is cold. After running the engine, you tighten more then they are good as gold.
I've had good luck with the constant tension band hose clamps......however I do see how your method would work too.
@@WestCoastRoller : Spring tension band clamps are only good on newer hoses, newer uncorroded, undamaged, or misshapen nipples. They were designed and used merely for faster/easier mass-production and lower production costs.
Constant spring tension clamps weaken over time and also rot away over time. They will often and do literally fall off sometimes, causing massive coolant, vacuum, fuel, or other leaks at hose connections where they were used.
For all of those stated reasons, tension clamps are total shit. A smart man, and good mechanic will remove and replace them every time with quality stainless steel worm-drive clamps any time a repair is made or needed. FWIW, I too am a professional technician.
Good job ! You didnt show the two piecies that connected under the dash. Is this high temp heater hose? Nice to know as I have a 98. On the road now, running thru Nevada,
I know!!! 😲 I was so far involved in the project I forgot to film the connection of the heater hoses at the heater core inside truck ....my bad. Yes 5/8 gates heater hose. I used a total of 3 feet for this job. Awesome! Have fun traveling in the Sliver State! 👍
ps to my prior post. I am finding no coolant leak inside or outside my vehicle while stationary. After long trips or a 500 miles or so I find a coolant loss of a quart or so. Slow leak but no obvious cause.
They can leak slowly....this was the case with mine. I probably drove for 2 years with a bad HC.
@@WestCoastRoller Good info and thanks for a great video. You Rock!
@@davidpennington2324 : You failed to mention what engine your truck has in it.
If a diesel, particularly a "53" block, you could have a cracked engine block. They often crack below the exhaust manifold and turbo, and only leak when the engine warms up and the block expands enough to open the crack up and let the coolant spray out, often on the hot exhaust and turbo, and it vaporizes and "disappears" under the truck. Diesels can also leak coolant from a blown head gasket, a bad/cracked radiator &/or hoses, and a worn-out water pump. Another source for leaks is any coolant line or hose that goes to and from the transmission cooler, if equipped with an automatic trans, located on the right side of the engine block, below the exhaust manifold. Again, this is all for the DIESEL engines only.
if a GAS 8.0L Magnum V-10 engine, some of them were shipped from the factory with defective cylinder heads. Yep, ya just can't make this shit up! Do some research, and you'd have learned about this, just as I eventually did. I owned one of these "problem children" myself, and mine was a near mint 1997 Ram 2500 4x4 with super low miles for it's age. I bought it from the original owner, who had passed away far to early in life, from cancer. The god-blessed coolant leak was almost totally undetectable. All that became gradually obvious is that the coolant level would periodically "disappear" from the overflow bottle, and eventually mysteriously continue to vanish from the radiator itself if let go long enough. Bet I added in about a gallon or two of coolant every 3 thousand miles or so, and boy was it frustrating to not know why. I pressure tested everything, and was pulling my hair out trying to figure out where the super-slow coolant leak was, as it was nearly undetectable using conventional coolant system pressure-testing methods.
Some strange happenings that I began to observe was as follows: At only roughly 45K original miles, my truck's V-10 engine developed a light rod knock. After pulling the oil pan down, and removing crank/rod caps, I discovered that the rod bearings were getting chewed up. Upon pulling the mains, amazingly, they were untouched and undamaged.
Strangely enough, there was no obvious signs of coolant in the engine oil, but that was later decided that was exactly what was happening. I replaced all of the rod bearings, and even installed a heavier pressure relief spring in the engine oil pump, based upon some internet suggestions found to force slightly higher oil pressure. (The spring "upgrade" was totally un-necessary, btw... and I would NOT do it again.) A lot of excess oil pressure is NOT really a good thing, contrary to popular (typically the under-educated folks) beliefs.
After replacing the rod bearings, from realizing that coolant was getting through the engine somehow, I began watching things even more closely... like the exhaust. What I discovered told that tale... Coolant was leaking into my engine and being "burned" out the tail pipe!!! I noticed that the exhaust always, and I mean ALWAYS, "smoked". What it really was, was coolant being evaporated out the exhaust. Didn't matter if the engine was cold or hot, run for 5 minutes or 5 hours straight, the exhaust ALWAYS had a whisp of moisture coming from it. Even at times when it definitely should NOT have been.
Another thing that I noticed over time, was that every so often, the engine would crank over funny, almost as if it were "hydro-locked". Well, guess what... that's exactly what was going on!
By finally later doing some online research, I finally was pointed to the obvious, which wasn't really obvious at all. One of the cylinder heads (or possibly both of the cylinder heads) were suffering from bad casting porosity problems!
Coolant would "seep" through the metal, and into the cylinders. Yeah, no lie! There was even an internal Chrysler service bulletin issued for this very problem for some of the V-10 engines. The rat bastards knew about it, but you were still left to foot the bill.
As far as the GAS 5.9L & 5.2L Magnum V-8's were concerned... They had well known plenum gasket issues. Usually they would consume engine oil very heavily due to this. However, I have also seen and heard of intake gasket leaks causing coolant consumption.
Another place they can and will leak, and leak badly sometimes, is from the front timing cover gaskets.
The water pump on these engines connects to the aluminum front timing cover, which is ported and gasketed on both sides and allows coolant to pass through it to & from the engine block. Also, gotta check all of the other usual suspect coolant areas will need to be checked. Radiators, water pumps, hose & line connections, and head gaskets.
Each one of these trucks had the potential for coolant system problems, that if left alone and unchecked for too long, you will have serious catastrophic engine failures caused by overheating and/or wiped-out major engine components.
You asked...
... so I just shared my many nerve-wracking experiences with Chrysler's (Dodge's) shit. ;-)
Love the trucks, but hate the poor engineering and massive production issues that cost us, the "end consumers", tens of thousands of dollars in repairing problems that should never have happened in the first place.
P.S. Oh yeah, and their heater cores are all shit, and they all will eventually leak also! (Grrr... LMAO!)
@@turbodiesel4709 that was quite a story there thanks for sharing ive got a 97 ram 1500 5.2 and its leaking antifreeze into the cab along with over heating and windows constantly being fogged up id like to replace the heater core on my own what else should i look at replacing?
For us crummy mechanics. Did u disconnect the parkng brake or hood attatchment? Id like to see the final hose attachment. And dash reattatch.
No need to disconnect either. Only auto transmission shifter cable
Why didnt you take the HVAC box loose?? Just a extra 20 min and don't understand why you would cut the new heater core.
The pipes do not twist and turn enough to slip in. The heater/AC unit must be loosened and pulled back. Also recharging of the AC lines may be necessary if you go that far which I did not want to do.
You don't have to recharge the a/c ,just loosen the heater box and push it in and you could replace it without cutting the tubes.
@@exilemike you are correct loosen the HVAC box take of the retainer clips so the AC lines can pass throw the firewall just enough to get the new heater core in no cutting or recharging ac involved. I've done 3 of these going to do a 4th soon.
yepp i did this in my 1500
Flex tubes can leak. The old style not aluminum units are more expensive but last longer...less redoing of the process.
Don't worry about that whole steering-column issue... If it doesn't work out, you can just tow it to the junk yard. Or a mechanic. I heard they love working on stuff other people fuck up first.
tow it to the junk yard..........lol...... thanks for watching! ✌️
Would have liked to have seen the hoses you put on the pipe that you cut outside of that not too bad a video thank you
Heater hose with double the clamps. I have yet to experience any leaks on my truck. Thanks for commenting and watching
I've done enough of em that it takes me 4-5 hrs to R&I the complete dash, which allows for replacing the AC evaporator core also. It's cheap and usually fails soon after the heater core.
Also that thick foam pad is sound deadener for diesels. The other video may have been a gas truck.
Thanks for your comment....I took a chance not replacing the evaporator.... so far so good no leaks!👍
Do you know what would go into putting a 97 dash in a 2001 cab????
the new core has the swivel tubes, why did you cut it?
because in order to install it with our cutting you have to remove the entire blower assembly so you can fit it in.
James Autry : It can be done without cutting them. He cut them because he didn't know what he was doing, that's why.
i just did mine and did not have to cut the new tubes.... just line up the tubes and slide the new heater core in...
Glad to hear it went well fro you. I couldn't slide the core into the housing and protrude lines through firewall all at the same time. Cutting was required for me.
@@WestCoastRoller i did have to give it a wack, but it slide right in... that's what she said! lol
is your truck a diesel
And what about the screws behind the dashboard panel
Why you cut the htr core fitting,they swivel.
Wasn't able to make them pivot out of the way enough to slide the core into the sleeve....
My dash disintegrated, makes it alot easier. I can just pull it out of the top lol.
👍😁
great job sir :)
whaht did you use to connect??
Dont know if youll reply but ive got a 1997 ram 1500 is it the same process as your 3500 ? Thanks
Yes it should be the same. The process will be the same. Your connections may be different.
4 Hours... Good Job.... How Much did SAVE $$$ doing it yourself?
I figure with the recharging of the A/C which the shop said they were going to do because they go off of the book...they probably would have replaced the evaporator which I did not..........so around $900 labor and parts. The Parts and coolant cost me $100. So probably $800 savings.
Why cut the new heater core???
the video explains why
Never use squeeze clamps.
make sure you squeeze your clamps...lol.
Hope you dont live any where cold those after market heater cores suck i put one in and always thought dodge had crappy heat til buddy told me to put a oem core and even at -35 °c below it will keep you warm
I've been good with mine so far...
what is a oem from QUÉBEC
First of all what are the symptoms of the heater core needed to be replaced?.... and did they change the dash in the 97 to where is there more UV friendly?... when you come through Grants Pass do you want to do mine?...😎🤣😃
The smell of antifreeze present inside the cab....loss of coolant in the reservoir tank.....leaking coolant under dash.....the heater not getting hot.....windshield fogging up when defroster heat on. 94-97 dash was same....then changed in 98-02. Should be same process through all years. 😄
I have a 1999 ram 1500 with the same problem but my dashboard has busted into pieces need additional advice on how to remove it
there are the screws along the windshield and those under the dash
@@WestCoastRoller I wasn't able to get to them in advance this was my first 94-01 ram truck heater core I've changed I got a 79 D100 I changed in 2013 whole new ball game for me going from 79 to a 99
My 01 dodge dash is crap. Poor dodge engineering. U need a bezel and top. Hard to find. Dont get an overlay!
@@dew14505 : We all say bad engineering, but the truth is, all of the Gen II Dodge Ram trucks have all outlived their intended useful life.
Fact is... it's because we're all poorer today than 20 - 30 years ago is why we are keeping our old junk trucks alive.
If our dollar went further like it used to, and inflation wasn't out of control (it is, the politicians keep lying to us, telling us it isn't...) then the vast majority of us would own new to 10 year old trucks, instead of continually resurrecting 20 to 40 year old trucks, made to still be used in service regularly.
No automobiles were ever intended nor designed to last over their 10-year useful life cycle. Ask any HONEST automotive manufacturing engineer... that's the Gods honest TRUTH.
FWIW, although it hurts to do... A brand new dash for about $300 can be had from MOPAR or through Geno's Garage.
The newer MOPAR dash covers are still color matched to your truck, and are made of a better, more pliable material than the original brittle garbage plastic of the past.
Additionally, the Geno's Garage dashboard covers made of an ABS plastic and will need to be painted to match. They come in black only. Same price, somewhat different material and ultimately a little more costly due to the need for painting them before installation.
As soon as I saw you pull out the old heater core, first thing I thought was you should cut the hoses & splice in the new heater core with short sections of rubber hose to mount to the old gold tubes
Thanks for your comment
Not so sure that it was Necessary to cut the Tubes on your New heater core to put it in.
Those "Flexible" tubes are simply held in place by the flange with a few crimps on the Heater core opening. Unbend the flange in the respective bend spots using a screwdriver, and pull the tubes out, feed the tubes through the firewall via the engine bay, reconnect them to the heater core, take a pair of vice grips and re-crimp the flange. That way , you're not destroying the dang thing, nor quite obviously voiding any warranties in the process.
Just a bit of advice though..
This is just the way I did it. I tried as your saying but wasn't able to rotate the tubes enough to make it fit.
@@WestCoastRoller Well, I guess, at the end of it all, Working Heat is Working Heat...
Help please, so i replaced my heater core. I had to cut as in your video. I had 2 problems: smoke when heater on and massive water at passengers floor. I replaced the old heater core (which was nasty looking). Smoke when heater on was solved but i still get water leaks. I already blow of the AC drain and even put a hose to it, but i still have water at passengers floor. I collected the water, it appears to have no cooland in it, only water.
Check your connections clamps.....you might have a bad core?
In my 98 Dodge Ram 1500 the heater blows cold air.... what could be the problem?
could be a stuck thermostat or leaking heater core........does your temp guage work?
Can you smell coolant or do your windows fog when you turn on your defroster? If yes, then it could be a heater core. If not, then like West Coast Roller said, it could be a thermostat or maybe the climate control switches are not working.
😀🤘😎
✌️🤘😃
Not a chance in hell am I going to put hoses and clamps under my dash! The pipes don't have any hose bibb rings to stop the hose from sliding off. I could be driving somewhere when one of those hoses came off, spraying antifreeze all up under the dash. I need to do this soon to my truck, but I will pull the dash apart enough to get the core in the right way.
Still no issues to this day the way I did it. Have fun pulling it all apart!
I did mine. Never again!! Never ever!
Good for you
For c hjcd
If you back flush no need for that nonsense.
Good to know that
great job . would be 3-5 k in shop. maybe 18 hours
My local shop wanted $600 in labor. They said they would also need to recharge the A/C which means they would have removed blower unit from firewall and replaced evaporator while going that far. They go off the "book" as far as the labor goes.
they shop would take dash out set on floor. is std pedicure. book way and all. 3k minimum here . 600 wouldn't even be a quote to pressure test.
@@backwoods3214 : False. It's a 6 - 8 hour job, max. I've done plenty of them. With A/C evaporator R&R as well. $600 - $900 is a proper quote. Anything above that, you are getting ripped off and scammed.
good way to cause a coolant leak in your dash
anything is possible in automotive repairs