So we are stage 2 now. SUPER FUN! After IE has the stage 2 file 100% we will go back to the dyno. Also While not 100% needed, I think we are going to upgrade the spark plugs. IE recommends NGK R7437-9 at .024" gap. Those babies aren't cheap at ~ $40 each. :)
When I had my 6R flashed to Stage 2 (Unitronic), the tech said I should expect the car to get a little faster over the following month as the engine and ECU settle into the new tune. Have you heard this? I'd be curious what your dyno numbers are after about a month/1000+ miles.
I always explain it like this - Stage 1 wakes the car up from stock, Stage 2 unlocks the usable potential, Stage 3 and beyond pushes the car to (or beyond) its limits.
From an owner perspective, Stage 1 is nearly always the way the car should come come the factory, but for the manufacturer, hitting those fuel economy and emissions targets are what matters. Stage 2 is the sweet spot for an enthusiast and stage 3 is rarely suitable for an everyday driver, you go to stage 3 for no other reason than, you can.
Charles your hands down one of the best car UA-camr’s in the business, your explanations, workmanship and videos are top notch!!! Always look forward to your videos 👍👌
Totally agree, best one out there. Tuned up cars when i was younger and now just getting back into it with my first build in years, working on stage one on my mk7r and your video have helped so much and a few laughs too
Charles don't just look at the peak numbers, the graph tells a great story in green. Your peak torque may be the same as stage 1 but look how much sooner it rises in green. Same for the horsepower, your powerband is stronger for a pretty wide RPM range. That's something you'll feel when you're driving daily rather than just full throttle. Good work!
I went full APR Stage 2 on my 2016 Golf R manual in late 2017 after being on Stage 1 for nearly 2 years. According to the APR published numbers, I was at 354 crank HP and 379 crank TQ. With Stage 2, the numbers improved to 387 crank HP and 409 crank TQ. The improvement wasn't quite as dramatic as going from stock to Stage 1, but the difference was still considerable, meaning the car went from crazy fast to absolute bonkers. Definitely worth the cost!
My typical answer to people when they ask "is this upgrade worth it?" is, if you're asking that question the answer is probably no. If you're not sure if spending 5k is worth the 100HP (or what ever) increase is worth it, its probably not to you. On the other hand its totally worth it if you want a car thats going to grab you by the pooper and give you a ride.
You are the only person I could find with true Dyno graphs for stock, stage 1, and stage 2 overlayed on the same sheet. I was hesitant on going aftermarket DP, and was considering going straight to one of the new stock dp turbo upgrades from either APR or EQT. This has swayed me. Going stage 2 for a while first.
The United motor sport tune is fantastic. My clutch started slipping right away, but I put in a TTRS pressure plate w/ new OEM fly wheel and clutch disc. So great now
Good video. To your point, Charles, about how important this piece is, it solved knock under load on a MK7 GTI Stage 1 and A3 8V Stage 1 as well - no other parts added. It improves flow at the turbocharger significantly.
Just to give you a heads up, we just did a compression test. 2019 Golf R DSG Cylinder 1,3,4 came back at 185psi. Cylinder 2 came back 160psi. Not saying its blown, but we will put a scope in it soon.
Awesome video! Thanks for outlining the total estimated cost. Really puts it all in perspective in regards to the financial burden of upgrading the power.
I would recommend anyone installing a stage 2, install a good catch can. Also another good upgrade is converting from the plastic sump to an alloy sump with cooling fins. They hold another 1.5QTS of oil, and drop the oil temp another 20F.
Charles. I have did an IS20 withe IE stage 3 tune with the DSG tune on my VW Alltrack. This is hands down the best tune money can buy. I am shocked just like you at the power. The shop that did it for me recomends the NGK racing spark plugs you state bellow only above 400 horsepower. The stock ones gapped at 0.026 work better for us under 400 horsepower and is more correct. IE states this gap on their site for all engine tunes. Love your channel. John
Great vid ! I have a Audi B5 RS4 with Wagner Intercoolers Milltek 3” full exhaust MRC remap Bosch 413 fuel pump Bilstein PSS9 coilovers H&R arbs ITG panel filter Running 490bhp and 517lbft torque. It’s a slippery slope modifying cars 😂 Love your golf R and the colour is wicked
We owned a beautiful Santorini Red B7 RS4 for 3 years until someone T-boned me at a junction. When I called my wife to tell her what had happened, and that I was in the ER but ok, she cried. - over the smashed up Audi HAHA. I'll tell you what though, that car was a frikken tank, and I'm glad I had that protection.
8:44 I am so confused, my car does not show the gear it's in Sport or Drive. It only shows "D" or "S", or "M1" "M2" if I'm in "manual shift mode". Am I missing a setting to enable this? Sorry for commenting on an older video, but any help would be appreciated. I looked all over in my settings but I must be super blind.
Got an IE turbo inlet for a customers car. Ported it and polished it. The stock inlet will now fit inside the IE pipe! Next restriction is the inlet of the turbo itself. You can see through the IE turbo inlet to a ridge of the turbo that is blocking some flow into it. Time to bust out the die grinder and get to work...
The big difference between Stage 1 and 2 wasn't really the peak gains but how much power/torque was gained on the top end. Looking at your dyno charts it was a significant gain. Since I have a 6MT I probably won't go stage 2 until I need to replace my clutch. At that point tossing in a downpipe is hardly any extra work. Honestly I'll probably skip Stage 2 and go straight to Stage 3...
Definitely one of the best channels on UA-cam! Always informative, great video quality and audio quality, and just solid content! Solid numbers and I like that you compared them all. I haven't seen it or I missed it, but do you have a drugy or have you run at the drag strip to see your 0 to 60 and quarter mile time ?
Seems to me that stage 1 is plenty for daily road use, while stage 2 is more for someone who wants to track and do serious spirited driving, thus requiring better throttle response, better heat management etc.
Watching the premiere with you was awesome. I can’t wait to see the stage 2 driving videos. You should get a dragy so you can do some 0-60 and 1/4 mile runs.
I had a similar interpretation of my 2019 Mini JCW. I had a stage 1 and then went to stage 2. Stage 1 (ecu tune only) is how the car should have been from the factory where the engine pulled pretty stout and strong. Stage 2 (High flow 200 cel downpipe, uprated inter-cooler and stage 2 ECU tune), ok, now it's showing a hint of gnarly beast in there some where. I can see why the factory wouldn't necessarily need to sell it this way.
I went from stock to stage 2; Got a lovely 100hp awakening. -Eurodyne stg.2 and DSG -Racing line intake, turbo inlet pipe, and hose -CTS turboback (de-cat), engine, trans. Mount -034 torque insert I must say that it has been so much fun driving a over 400hp (crank) car. Debating if I should get the intercooler since I don't track my car and I don't use all of that hp as frequent as I would like. Great video.
My Stage 1 tune remap with completely modified intake (filter to turbo muffler delete) made the exhaust sound throaty! +80 hp and +100 Nm torque - SEAT Leon Cupra
Congrats Sir on stage 2 upgrades. I love my stage 2 on the Audi A3 (2015). It is enough to keep pace or better with the 95 percenters willing to run it:). I completed every upgrade that you have in your videos except I went with full Borla exhaust rather than only the downpipe. Next up is a Brake kit and carbon fiber hood.
Have fun spending your entire 'rona check on a "carbon fiber" hood while us money savey enthusiasts with some basic high school shop skills are doing burnouts and making turbo sounds with homemade kits for under $700.
I had a classic Scooby with about those power figures, for the roads here in the UK it was more than enough. If I were to be tracking the car then yes, I may have wanted more but it just felt so right at the figures. Glad you're pleased with the results, look forward to your future videos.
Hi Charles, I recently completed this mod and noticed some weird scoring or scratches in the mouth of the turbocharger inlet. At 5:14 in your video, you can see the same issue in your turbo. Any idea what that is and why it happens?
Im considering getting one, and besides this upgrades I think I would add the sway bar like you suggested in your '5 must do mods' video, coilovers (lower it about 10mm) and blow off valve. Then some astetics like front lip, spoiler, side skirts and smoke windows VW symbols and tail lights (would be getting in black) Thank you so much for all your Golf R content, it rly is helping me in terms of deciding what car to get and what do do it indeed I go ahead with the Golf
To be able to go stage 2 all that is truly required is the downpipe. Depending on your budget you can add everything else afterwards in the order you please
2:57 I drive a 3rd gen RX-7 and use the Golf R as a daily driver. I spend so much time working on the FD that my ears heard you say "A lot of them RX-7s". 😵💫
At what RPM did does stage 2 really kick in? I hear it's 4.5 or 5k. So it makes the car feel slow daily driven unless your really open it up every time to feel the power. I like when it hits at 3-3.5 it makes the car more lively and fun to drive.
My battery died in my 2016 Volkswagen Jetta 2016 last night. Can I just replace it myself or is it best to have a professional do it in case it really needs to have things reset? I don’t know if that’s just BS or the truth.
Taking my GTI up to Chicago next week for an APR Stage 2 tune, and they told me labor on the downpipe was only $180. And labor on the software is $60, just FYI. Due to APR year end sales, hoping to keep cost for downpipe and software around $1500 (no DSG, keeping stock clutch). Already did the intake myself, so $1800-ish total fingers crossed.
I just looked at my car before doing this and my T30 screw mentioned at 2:49 is missing! Someone who owned the car before me must have lost it. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement? I'm assuming one won't come with my new inlet pipe
I'm planning to save and get a Golf R 2021. Are you going to get one and do some videos on it? Myself I want to do maybe stage 1 only and do some adds for my car. I want to use it as a daily driver only.
Question -- I have a problem. I went to install inlet pipe and now I have a stripped screw and a stripped bracket. I can possibly tap the bracket, but how can I get a replacement bolt? Is this something that can be ordered? I noticed the at the turbo end it’s just a hole, can I use a socket head cap screw that is the same length and thread?
Great vid, i did to IE stg 2 93 octane on gen2 CDNC Audi and my consumption is now 5l higher as with stock map, and i have tried EV regime of driving 80/100/130kmh... did u see/had any problems with IE stg2, my car runs ok and u see gains clearly but +5l is bit too much.... now is 15L/100km, before was 10-10,5L/100km...
@HumbleMechanic, got a question for you, on the IE website the stage 2 tune is advertised as 431 bhp and 466 btq for the 7.5R on 93 oct. fuel which should be around 380 whp and around 400 wtq which is imo kinda optimistic. Your numbers are a bit lower then the advertised so do you think your numbers are lower because of the beta file or is IE a little bit over advertising the numbers? I am asking because I am considering to go Stage 2 either with IE or Unitronic.
The down pipe and intake are the biggest restrictions to flow since there small diameter and have bends in them that they will net you the biggest hp gain compared to just changing the rear of the exhaust
Noob question, please help. Internal wastegate, actuator has a nozzle, but nowhere to connect. Now where to, does a wg need boost or vacuum? Do i drill a nozzle in the charge pipe? I tried sucking on the nozzle and moved, when blow nothing, I'm confused by forums and other explanations. Thanks
you can mod the stock intake opening the right side , also changing the inlate hose. With the inlate pipe, turbo muffler delete and a KN sport filter in the factory box you have cooler air than with your setup. Also I wouldn't change the intercooler and downpipe, it isn't worth the money for something like 15-20 hp. After I would do the air mods i mentioned i would do a custom tuning at someone who really knows what he's doing, not that tuning from a distance crap and get the performance about half way your stage 1 and 2 , all under 1$(a little more with dsg tune). PS: in my country(Romania) a custon tuning is like 300-400Euros .
My inlet pipe isn’t sliding on as easy as yours did. I’m lining up the dashes but it feels the inlet is too big. I got the IE just like you, so I would assume quality is there. Perhaps it has to go in just right and I’m using my bad eye
I was able to pick up an APR TIP and CTS Turbo inlet hose plus APR turbo muffler delete and turbo outlet hose for under $200. So I snagged those for the low. With APR Stage 1 and DSG tunes, I should be good with adding those mods. Stock right now, just with the tune. I will pick up an intake later, torn between AMS, Eventuri, or Unitronic. But I will pick that later. Just want to make sure I'm good with the turbo inlet/outlet mods while stage 1 with no intake.
On other cars I've seen with upgrades (like my CTSV) items like upgraded intercooler, pulleys, belts and injectors are always part of upgrades (generally supporting mods go first, then pulleys, injectors then cam etc..). Yet every VW Golf R vid I've seen with various stage 1 (which seems super simplistic?) and stage 2 (which again seems kinda minimalistic in comparison) only seems to replace a few minor things. Are injectors, pistons, fuel pumps, upgraded cooling solutions (meth/intercoolers or active coolers/chillers) etc even a thing to upgrade? Or are those solely for racing purposes? I'm looking to buy a VW Golf MK 7.5 in the next few days and I'll likely at least be putting an upgraded air intake and at least a tune (stage 1-ish) to add a bit of pep in my daily driving on the car.
Is this where I go to ask you a question? Anyhow, do timing chains stretch when a car is tuned? I have a hybrid version of the MGT1752s and unexpectedly cranked out 408 hp. I’m happy with the power and then some dude said something about how he wishes he can stretch his timing chain 5 degrees to fit it. It’s not a buzzkill but now I’m curious what he could have possibly meant. ???
Charles, Why did you go Integrated Engineering vs the Unitronic which is sold with your co-hort Paul. It looks like the Integrated has more support for getting it right. Also, the Integrated seems more cost efficient. Your thoughts between the two systems? Owner/Manufacturer suppor?
Hey man! Do you think there would be any dramas to the paint work on the hood if you were to remove the foam pad/insulator underneath the bonnet? Reason for removal would be sound enhancement for the turbo and intake. Pls let me know !
Do you think it would be bad for me to put a catless Downpipe before I tune the car? I also know that if I do I will be getting an engine light on. Do you think I should wait to tune the car first or should I put it on soon? I also want a louder sound
I have a manual golf R. I want to go stage 2 but I really dont want clutch chatter. Do you have any recommendations for a clutch? Or how to keep chatter to a minimum. From my research I have found for a stage 2 file I will need a SMF.
At 10:25 it seems the second setting gave the most of both torque and horses combined - yet you apparently went with the last setting gaining almost one hp but losing two ft/lbs. Why? And 5G is quite a lot for 30 hp and no torque - imho. 😊
I've got a mk4 Jetta 2003 I love my car it started having an issue I cannot figure out some times it will die but starts back up sometimes it will act like the battery is dead but you turn the wheel back and forth and it's fine other times my dash goes dead most times if the radio is on and you are jamming (lol) checked fuses battery fuse box is updated just looking for advice
@@HumbleMechanic Okay I just wanted to make sure. I going to be getting a Mk7 R when he Mk8 hits the US. That way the price should drop for the Mk7. It won't stay stock forever. But I want to last. And thank you for getting back to me! Most people don't. Been watching your stuff for a while. You should definitely do more stuff on your Mk7. I love these cars!
Something I didn't hear you mention but find significant is that, while PEAK torque for Stage 2 is same as Stage 1, Stage 1 torque falls off after 4K RPM while Stage 2 makes about 25 to 35 lb/ft more than Stage 1 from about 4,700 RPM all the way to redline. That's going to be significant in real-world driving, in my opinion. Also, how is drone with this downpipe? Is it of high quality? Getting a CEL? THANK YOU!
HumbleMechanic hey Charles when I installed the inlet pipe I backed out that T30 to much and whatever holds that T30 from the back side fell out 😔 . Do you happen to know how I can replace that?
Do you get aftermarket turbo inlet pipes b/c they are bigger so hence providing more air? You know it may not feel like that much more power but lets look at the power gained under the curve. The torque peak is higher and more so it is sustained longer as well. The Hp is great under the curve as well. Yes stage 1 over stock is much better and you are right that's how it should have come from the factory but lets take into consideration the strain stage 1 has on all the parts. The amount of boost asked for by the flash vs the amount of air those parts flow over time could wear it out a great deal more. Stage 2 Seems to take into consideration the strain of asking more boost from the engine so hence the bigger piping to make up for more air. I take it at this point Stage 2 is close to maxing the stock turbo out and Stage 3 will include a bigger turbo? You are highly informative and entertaining so not trying to be critical at all b/c you know much more about this than I do, I guess I am trying to figure each stage out from basic logic and my small understanding of engines/turbo engines.
Hey, you and Deutsch auto parts have started focussing on the mark 8 are you going to help all of us mark 7.5 owners down the road of stage 3 there doesn’t seem to be very many options in the canned or off-the-shelf tunes for bigger turbos in the North American market. Especially now that my car is stage two with an aftermarket downpipe APR is offering some new emissions equipment that doesn’t support a downpipe IE isnt offering compleat kits. I think there would be a ton of us that would love to see you do the flex fuel kit from IE. Anyway basically I’m saying don’t give up on the old model us mark 7 - 7.5 folks need love too.
We won’t leave you hanging. :) I’m waiting on IE to finish their 7.5 flex and new turbo upgrade software. Hopefully in the next few months. I’ll have a very early version so I can make a video .
So we are stage 2 now. SUPER FUN! After IE has the stage 2 file 100% we will go back to the dyno. Also While not 100% needed, I think we are going to upgrade the spark plugs. IE recommends NGK R7437-9 at .024" gap. Those babies aren't cheap at ~ $40 each. :)
Is it 100% necessary to install spark plugs for a stage 2+ ?
@@yoyigu I've always heard it's "strongly suggested" to go at least a degree colder on your plugs with stage 2 or 2+
When I had my 6R flashed to Stage 2 (Unitronic), the tech said I should expect the car to get a little faster over the following month as the engine and ECU settle into the new tune. Have you heard this? I'd be curious what your dyno numbers are after about a month/1000+ miles.
Rockauto has those plugs for $28
Get the plugs from fcpeuro to use their lifetime warranty
I always explain it like this - Stage 1 wakes the car up from stock, Stage 2 unlocks the usable potential, Stage 3 and beyond pushes the car to (or beyond) its limits.
James that is a PERECT explanation
To a certain extent you are right but doesn’t apply to all applicants
@@El_Jefe_S3 fair enough. I'm speaking within the realm of VAG products.
That's a really good breakdown actually!
From an owner perspective, Stage 1 is nearly always the way the car should come come the factory, but for the manufacturer, hitting those fuel economy and emissions targets are what matters. Stage 2 is the sweet spot for an enthusiast and stage 3 is rarely suitable for an everyday driver, you go to stage 3 for no other reason than, you can.
Charles your hands down one of the best car UA-camr’s in the business, your explanations, workmanship and videos are top notch!!! Always look forward to your videos 👍👌
Thank you so much for that. Means the world
Totally agree, best one out there. Tuned up cars when i was younger and now just getting back into it with my first build in years, working on stage one on my mk7r and your video have helped so much and a few laughs too
Charles don't just look at the peak numbers, the graph tells a great story in green. Your peak torque may be the same as stage 1 but look how much sooner it rises in green. Same for the horsepower, your powerband is stronger for a pretty wide RPM range. That's something you'll feel when you're driving daily rather than just full throttle. Good work!
Yes looking at the area under the curve is right, and it needs work between 3-4k rpm.
It's a little better. Not a lot better.
I've been stage 2 on my GTI for about 2 years now and I have to say, the car is an absolute blast to drive!
Just getting into this what tune did you use, not sure if I want to go IE or unitronic any feedback 🤔
I went full APR Stage 2 on my 2016 Golf R manual in late 2017 after being on Stage 1 for nearly 2 years. According to the APR published numbers, I was at 354 crank HP and 379 crank TQ. With Stage 2, the numbers improved to 387 crank HP and 409 crank TQ. The improvement wasn't quite as dramatic as going from stock to Stage 1, but the difference was still considerable, meaning the car went from crazy fast to absolute bonkers. Definitely worth the cost!
My typical answer to people when they ask "is this upgrade worth it?" is, if you're asking that question the answer is probably no. If you're not sure if spending 5k is worth the 100HP (or what ever) increase is worth it, its probably not to you.
On the other hand its totally worth it if you want a car thats going to grab you by the pooper and give you a ride.
Power corrupts the man.....stay humble Charles 😂
Horsepower Corruption. Seems like a good T-shirt
@@HumbleMechanic CORRUPTED HORSES🐎🐎🐎
car gang😂😂😂
@@HumbleMechanic I think you may have a tshirt idea there
@@HumbleMechanic Were just glad you dont own a Mustang.. 😄 👍
Hahahha
You are the only person I could find with true Dyno graphs for stock, stage 1, and stage 2 overlayed on the same sheet. I was hesitant on going aftermarket DP, and was considering going straight to one of the new stock dp turbo upgrades from either APR or EQT. This has swayed me. Going stage 2 for a while first.
Awesome!!! Glad to help
Im here for the beard
MultiNazi666 me too
Genuinely love your honest videos, advice and guides. You have a beautiful car and that is so worth it! Keep up the great work Charles!
Thank you so much
I own a 2010 Ford Focus due to needing a family car. Why am I hooked to these videos haha
The United motor sport tune is fantastic. My clutch started slipping right away, but I put in a TTRS pressure plate w/ new OEM fly wheel and clutch disc. So great now
Nice!! I have UM on my R32. Probably going with their Haldex tune on the R
I keep forgetting how good them engines are!! There good figures!
Good video. To your point, Charles, about how important this piece is, it solved knock under load on a MK7 GTI Stage 1 and A3 8V Stage 1 as well - no other parts added. It improves flow at the turbocharger significantly.
so its worth adding to a Stage 1, in your opinion ?
@@JDDD33 I would say so. A known good product that will facilitate the increased airflow from the turbo is a good thing indeed.
Can't wait for the Stage 2 to be released to the public! Thanks for the help on the battery maintainer question the other day.
Just to give you a heads up, we just did a compression test.
2019 Golf R DSG
Cylinder 1,3,4 came back at 185psi.
Cylinder 2 came back 160psi.
Not saying its blown, but we will put a scope in it soon.
Hopefully head gasket like when my car lost compression in 4 and 6
@@britishav8tor75 yes Im FBO/Full E85.
Im not worried, i have been expecting this to eventually happen.
@@whydoihave6neutrals772 would be cool, ill keep you updated.
Some One good luck hope it’s that and not your whole block! Good luck!
@@whydoihave6neutrals772 fingers crossed
Awesome video! Thanks for outlining the total estimated cost. Really puts it all in perspective in regards to the financial burden of upgrading the power.
I would recommend anyone installing a stage 2, install a good catch can. Also another good upgrade is converting from the plastic sump to an alloy sump with cooling fins. They hold another 1.5QTS of oil, and drop the oil temp another 20F.
Charles. I have did an IS20 withe IE stage 3 tune with the DSG tune on my VW Alltrack. This is hands down the best tune money can buy. I am shocked just like you at the power. The shop that did it for me recomends the NGK racing spark plugs you state bellow only above 400 horsepower. The stock ones gapped at 0.026 work better for us under 400 horsepower and is more correct. IE states this gap on their site for all engine tunes. Love your channel. John
Stage-2 lasted me about a year before I wanted more...lets see how long it takes Charles;)
Great vid ! I have a Audi B5 RS4 with
Wagner Intercoolers
Milltek 3” full exhaust
MRC remap
Bosch 413 fuel pump
Bilstein PSS9 coilovers
H&R arbs
ITG panel filter
Running 490bhp and 517lbft torque.
It’s a slippery slope modifying cars 😂
Love your golf R and the colour is wicked
carl lynch MRC! Great company
We owned a beautiful Santorini Red B7 RS4 for 3 years until someone T-boned me at a junction. When I called my wife to tell her what had happened, and that I was in the ER but ok, she cried. - over the smashed up Audi HAHA. I'll tell you what though, that car was a frikken tank, and I'm glad I had that protection.
Non of these jobs are hard to do,says the master mechanic lol,the R is now a beast,great video as always.
Hahah not hard just takes time. Well the plastic clips on the dang cooler were pretty dumb. Ha
8:44 I am so confused, my car does not show the gear it's in Sport or Drive. It only shows "D" or "S", or "M1" "M2" if I'm in "manual shift mode". Am I missing a setting to enable this? Sorry for commenting on an older video, but any help would be appreciated. I looked all over in my settings but I must be super blind.
Got an IE turbo inlet for a customers car. Ported it and polished it. The stock inlet will now fit inside the IE pipe! Next restriction is the inlet of the turbo itself. You can see through the IE turbo inlet to a ridge of the turbo that is blocking some flow into it. Time to bust out the die grinder and get to work...
The big difference between Stage 1 and 2 wasn't really the peak gains but how much power/torque was gained on the top end. Looking at your dyno charts it was a significant gain. Since I have a 6MT I probably won't go stage 2 until I need to replace my clutch. At that point tossing in a downpipe is hardly any extra work. Honestly I'll probably skip Stage 2 and go straight to Stage 3...
Definitely one of the best channels on UA-cam! Always informative, great video quality and audio quality, and just solid content!
Solid numbers and I like that you compared them all. I haven't seen it or I missed it, but do you have a drugy or have you run at the drag strip to see your 0 to 60 and quarter mile time ?
Performance turbo inlet and stage 1 tune looks like the best bang for buck.
Seems to me that stage 1 is plenty for daily road use, while stage 2 is more for someone who wants to track and do serious spirited driving, thus requiring better throttle response, better heat management etc.
Watching the premiere with you was awesome. I can’t wait to see the stage 2 driving videos. You should get a dragy so you can do some 0-60 and 1/4 mile runs.
That is a great Idea. My p3 has 0-60. I just don't like the idea of doing it on public roads and then posting on UA-cam. HAHAHAH
HumbleMechanic yah that’s true the P3 is a good option. I think the dragy is still $140 on Amazon. You can always go to a closed course road 😬
HumbleMechanic you can always drive to Mexico. 😁
@@GermanEliteTuning as everybody do...NATURALLY...😎😎🤠🤠😱😱😂😂🤣🤣
I had a similar interpretation of my 2019 Mini JCW. I had a stage 1 and then went to stage 2. Stage 1 (ecu tune only) is how the car should have been from the factory where the engine pulled pretty stout and strong. Stage 2 (High flow 200 cel downpipe, uprated inter-cooler and stage 2 ECU tune), ok, now it's showing a hint of gnarly beast in there some where. I can see why the factory wouldn't necessarily need to sell it this way.
I want to know, who could ever give any of your videos a thumb down🤔? Awesome video, Thanks Again😁!!!
Thank you so much
I just installed a full revo cold air intake and I really like how they did their turbo inlet. Looks like it flows even better than this IE one
I went from stock to stage 2; Got a lovely 100hp awakening.
-Eurodyne stg.2 and DSG
-Racing line intake, turbo inlet pipe, and hose
-CTS turboback (de-cat), engine, trans. Mount
-034 torque insert
I must say that it has been so much fun driving a over 400hp (crank) car. Debating if I should get the intercooler since I don't track my car and I don't use all of that hp as frequent as I would like. Great video.
I bought a Honda Civic Type R and I actually regret not buying a Golf R.Great car!!
The CTR is cool!!
My Stage 1 tune remap with completely modified intake (filter to turbo muffler delete) made the exhaust sound throaty! +80 hp and +100 Nm torque - SEAT Leon Cupra
Congrats Sir on stage 2 upgrades. I love my stage 2 on the Audi A3 (2015). It is enough to keep pace or better with the 95 percenters willing to run it:). I completed every upgrade that you have in your videos except I went with full Borla exhaust rather than only the downpipe. Next up is a Brake kit and carbon fiber hood.
Have fun spending your entire 'rona check on a "carbon fiber" hood while us money savey enthusiasts with some basic high school shop skills are doing burnouts and making turbo sounds with homemade kits for under $700.
Looking forward to watching you go to stage 3.
The BEST1
little weird with that angle ...... beard.....
Your context`s in USA is in the needs...
Please keep going!
I had a classic Scooby with about those power figures, for the roads here in the UK it was more than enough. If I were to be tracking the car then yes, I may have wanted more but it just felt so right at the figures.
Glad you're pleased with the results, look forward to your future videos.
As always great video Charles very cool and quite helpful
Thank you
Hi Charles, I recently completed this mod and noticed some weird scoring or scratches in the mouth of the turbocharger inlet. At 5:14 in your video, you can see the same issue in your turbo. Any idea what that is and why it happens?
Im considering getting one, and besides this upgrades I think I would add the sway bar like you suggested in your '5 must do mods' video, coilovers (lower it about 10mm) and blow off valve.
Then some astetics like front lip, spoiler, side skirts and smoke windows VW symbols and tail lights (would be getting in black)
Thank you so much for all your Golf R content, it rly is helping me in terms of deciding what car to get and what do do it indeed I go ahead with the Golf
Just a quick question, all the videos for stage 2 upgrades plus software is pretty much what you need to run it on the golf r right ?
Yes
To be able to go stage 2 all that is truly required is the downpipe. Depending on your budget you can add everything else afterwards in the order you please
2:57 I drive a 3rd gen RX-7 and use the Golf R as a daily driver. I spend so much time working on the FD that my ears heard you say "A lot of them RX-7s". 😵💫
At what RPM did does stage 2 really kick in? I hear it's 4.5 or 5k. So it makes the car feel slow daily driven unless your really open it up every time to feel the power. I like when it hits at 3-3.5 it makes the car more lively and fun to drive.
My battery died in my 2016 Volkswagen Jetta 2016 last night. Can I just replace it myself or is it best to have a professional do it in case it really needs to have things reset? I don’t know if that’s just BS or the truth.
Amazing video man!!!! Keep up the good work! Can’t wait to do stage 2
Why not take the crackle tune?
I appreciate the video bro! Just installed my 034 Motorsport Turbo Inlet on my MK7 GLI. Used your video for reference. Much help!
I'm trying to get to where u are but on my audi s3, still have a way to go but enjoy watching ur videos. Keep it up!
Nice!!!! The s3 is rad
Great info on expectations on these mods. Maybe in the near future ill be doing these upgrades but as of right now, im just enjoying the car.
Taking my GTI up to Chicago next week for an APR Stage 2 tune, and they told me labor on the downpipe was only $180. And labor on the software is $60, just FYI. Due to APR year end sales, hoping to keep cost for downpipe and software around $1500 (no DSG, keeping stock clutch). Already did the intake myself, so $1800-ish total fingers crossed.
really appreciate how detailed you get 👌
Thank you!
Would be very interested in seeing you do a Pedal Commander install, or alternatively your thoughts on why it might not be a good idea.
I did the Pedal Commander and its probably the most fun mod you can do. Also so is the rear sway bar. Of course initial Stage 1 upgrade is great too.
new shop looks great congrat Charles
I just looked at my car before doing this and my T30 screw mentioned at 2:49 is missing! Someone who owned the car before me must have lost it. Anyone know where I can buy a replacement? I'm assuming one won't come with my new inlet pipe
Im glad i ran into you! Looking to get the newer gold r and god damn you stamped it for me! Lets go!! New sub! Keep going buddy!
I'm planning to save and get a Golf R 2021. Are you going to get one and do some videos on it? Myself I want to do maybe stage 1 only and do some adds for my car. I want to use it as a daily driver only.
Your instruction to change turbo is very good
Thank you
Question -- I have a problem. I went to install inlet pipe and now I have a stripped screw and a stripped bracket. I can possibly tap the bracket, but how can I get a replacement bolt? Is this something that can be ordered? I noticed the at the turbo end it’s just a hole, can I use a socket head cap screw that is the same length and thread?
Yes it’s all good as long as parts are made to with stand the added stress . My only concern . Interested in your verbal hp and torque # s
Great vid, i did to IE stg 2 93 octane on gen2 CDNC Audi and my consumption is now 5l higher as with stock map, and i have tried EV regime of driving 80/100/130kmh... did u see/had any problems with IE stg2, my car runs ok and u see gains clearly but +5l is bit too much.... now is 15L/100km, before was 10-10,5L/100km...
Whats the orange tray called or where can I get one that he uses for the parts in the start of the video?
@HumbleMechanic, got a question for you, on the IE website the stage 2 tune is advertised as 431 bhp and 466 btq for the 7.5R on 93 oct. fuel which should be around 380 whp and around 400 wtq which is imo kinda optimistic.
Your numbers are a bit lower then the advertised so do you think your numbers are lower because of the beta file or is IE a little bit over advertising the numbers? I am asking because I am considering to go Stage 2 either with IE or Unitronic.
You also should consider suspension mods, sway bar, engine mounts and possibly springs or coil overs
So your exhaust is stock except the intake and downpipe, correct?
The down pipe and intake are the biggest restrictions to flow since there small diameter and have bends in them that they will net you the biggest hp gain compared to just changing the rear of the exhaust
Noob question, please help. Internal wastegate, actuator has a nozzle, but nowhere to connect. Now where to, does a wg need boost or vacuum? Do i drill a nozzle in the charge pipe? I tried sucking on the nozzle and moved, when blow nothing, I'm confused by forums and other explanations. Thanks
Closer to the turbo housing the better. I did mine in the silicon hose right out of the turbo
Why didn’t you do the front mount intercooler ????
you can mod the stock intake opening the right side , also changing the inlate hose. With the inlate pipe, turbo muffler delete and a KN sport filter in the factory box you have cooler air than with your setup. Also I wouldn't change the intercooler and downpipe, it isn't worth the money for something like 15-20 hp. After I would do the air mods i mentioned i would do a custom tuning at someone who really knows what he's doing, not that tuning from a distance crap and get the performance about half way your stage 1 and 2 , all under 1$(a little more with dsg tune). PS: in my country(Romania) a custon tuning is like 300-400Euros .
My inlet pipe isn’t sliding on as easy as yours did. I’m lining up the dashes but it feels the inlet is too big. I got the IE just like you, so I would assume quality is there. Perhaps it has to go in just right and I’m using my bad eye
I’m sure I have a dud. I got the stock back on with no problems.
Hello. Must I get the dsg tune from same that tune the engine? I mean does it matter if they are not compatible? Engine and gearbox
I was able to pick up an APR TIP and CTS Turbo inlet hose plus APR turbo muffler delete and turbo outlet hose for under $200. So I snagged those for the low. With APR Stage 1 and DSG tunes, I should be good with adding those mods. Stock right now, just with the tune. I will pick up an intake later, torn between AMS, Eventuri, or Unitronic. But I will pick that later. Just want to make sure I'm good with the turbo inlet/outlet mods while stage 1 with no intake.
Open air intake on a stage 2 is pretty stupid if you ask me, just asking for heat soak and do you mean intercooler?
On other cars I've seen with upgrades (like my CTSV) items like upgraded intercooler, pulleys, belts and injectors are always part of upgrades (generally supporting mods go first, then pulleys, injectors then cam etc..).
Yet every VW Golf R vid I've seen with various stage 1 (which seems super simplistic?) and stage 2 (which again seems kinda minimalistic in comparison) only seems to replace a few minor things. Are injectors, pistons, fuel pumps, upgraded cooling solutions (meth/intercoolers or active coolers/chillers) etc even a thing to upgrade? Or are those solely for racing purposes?
I'm looking to buy a VW Golf MK 7.5 in the next few days and I'll likely at least be putting an upgraded air intake and at least a tune (stage 1-ish) to add a bit of pep in my daily driving on the car.
I really appreciate your videos...thanks for sharing your knowledge👍👌
By far the best DIY instruction video on how to install a turbo inlet pipe for the mk7/mqb platform. Glad you got a mk7 golf
thank you
Is this where I go to ask you a question? Anyhow, do timing chains stretch when a car is tuned? I have a hybrid version of the MGT1752s and unexpectedly cranked out 408 hp. I’m happy with the power and then some dude said something about how he wishes he can stretch his timing chain 5 degrees to fit it. It’s not a buzzkill but now I’m curious what he could have possibly meant. ???
Charles, Why did you go Integrated Engineering vs the Unitronic which is sold with your co-hort Paul. It looks like the Integrated has more support for getting it right. Also, the Integrated seems more cost efficient. Your thoughts between the two systems? Owner/Manufacturer suppor?
LOL - I don't have an R so I didn't know about Dyno Mode - that shot on the dyno was trippin' me out!
Lol it’s the most common comment
Hey man! Do you think there would be any dramas to the paint work on the hood if you were to remove the foam pad/insulator underneath the bonnet? Reason for removal would be sound enhancement for the turbo and intake. Pls let me know !
I’ve seen hoods have paint issues from heat. I’d leave it on.
HumbleMechanic have you seen that on MK7 GTI/R’s? Apparently the new MK7.5’s don’t come with them??
What is that hose called that he took off the inlet pipe ?
Hey Charles where is it sold that black shirt bro ?
This is a newb question but how do the runes affect VW warranty?
Do you think it would be bad for me to put a catless Downpipe before I tune the car? I also know that if I do I will be getting an engine light on. Do you think I should wait to tune the car first or should I put it on soon? I also want a louder sound
Hey @humblemechanic are you hearing any drone with this setup?
Thanks!
A touch in race mode. But not much at all. I’m pretty sensitive to drone in this car
What is the difference betwin 2l engines in golf r, polo gti and ather like passat, arteon, tiguan? It is not only software i think.
I have a manual golf R. I want to go stage 2 but I really dont want clutch chatter. Do you have any recommendations for a clutch? Or how to keep chatter to a minimum.
From my research I have found for a stage 2 file I will need a SMF.
At 10:25 it seems the second setting gave the most of both torque and horses combined - yet you apparently went with the last setting gaining almost one hp but losing two ft/lbs. Why?
And 5G is quite a lot for 30 hp and no torque - imho. 😊
For the cost you have to compare stock hp/tq. I’m actually on about 4 files further than the last runs. Lol
What are your thoughts on a Catch Can or Air Oil Separator for the EA888 motors?
I've got a mk4 Jetta 2003 I love my car it started having an issue I cannot figure out some times it will die but starts back up sometimes it will act like the battery is dead but you turn the wheel back and forth and it's fine other times my dash goes dead most times if the radio is on and you are jamming (lol) checked fuses battery fuse box is updated just looking for advice
Why isn't all the wheels moving on the dyno? Golf R's are all wheel drive?
Loved the video man, really informative 👍🏻
Silly question. What's your opinion on the digital instrument cluster? Do you think it's something that can last long term?
I love it! Long term? Can’t really say but there were digi clusters in the 90s still rocking today
@@HumbleMechanic Okay I just wanted to make sure. I going to be getting a Mk7 R when he Mk8 hits the US. That way the price should drop for the Mk7. It won't stay stock forever. But I want to last. And thank you for getting back to me! Most people don't. Been watching your stuff for a while. You should definitely do more stuff on your Mk7. I love these cars!
Something I didn't hear you mention but find significant is that, while PEAK torque for Stage 2 is same as Stage 1, Stage 1 torque falls off after 4K RPM while Stage 2 makes about 25 to 35 lb/ft more than Stage 1 from about 4,700 RPM all the way to redline. That's going to be significant in real-world driving, in my opinion. Also, how is drone with this downpipe? Is it of high quality? Getting a CEL? THANK YOU!
No drone, no MIL.
Hey Charles is the IE turbo inlet install the same for the mk7.5 GTI ?
Yep pretty much the same
HumbleMechanic hey Charles when I installed the inlet pipe I backed out that T30 to much and whatever holds that T30 from the back side fell out 😔 . Do you happen to know how I can replace that?
Do you get aftermarket turbo inlet pipes b/c they are bigger so hence providing more air? You know it may not feel like that much more power but lets look at the power gained under the curve. The torque peak is higher and more so it is sustained longer as well. The Hp is great under the curve as well. Yes stage 1 over stock is much better and you are right that's how it should have come from the factory but lets take into consideration the strain stage 1 has on all the parts. The amount of boost asked for by the flash vs the amount of air those parts flow over time could wear it out a great deal more. Stage 2 Seems to take into consideration the strain of asking more boost from the engine so hence the bigger piping to make up for more air. I take it at this point Stage 2 is close to maxing the stock turbo out and Stage 3 will include a bigger turbo? You are highly informative and entertaining so not trying to be critical at all b/c you know much more about this than I do, I guess I am trying to figure each stage out from basic logic and my small understanding of engines/turbo engines.
Hi, nice video. Do I loose my guarantee for stage one and how can be spotted if I bring my car in for service . Thanks
HUmbleMechanic Interesting to see you dynoing the car on a 2wd dyno.. Does the Haldex not like the awd Dyno?
@9:55 I noticed too,
Hey, you and Deutsch auto parts have started focussing on the mark 8 are you going to help all of us mark 7.5 owners down the road of stage 3 there doesn’t seem to be very many options in the canned or off-the-shelf tunes for bigger turbos in the North American market. Especially now that my car is stage two with an aftermarket downpipe APR is offering some new emissions equipment that doesn’t support a downpipe IE isnt offering compleat kits. I think there would be a ton of us that would love to see you do the flex fuel kit from IE. Anyway basically I’m saying don’t give up on the old model us mark 7 - 7.5 folks need love too.
We won’t leave you hanging. :) I’m waiting on IE to finish their 7.5 flex and new turbo upgrade software. Hopefully in the next few months. I’ll have a very early version so I can make a video .
@@HumbleMechanic Sweet, exited to see that!