Dude I’ve been researching dual battery set ups for around a month and there are so many complicated videos out there that overwhelm you with things you don’t seem to need and just bad explanation of things man you are just awesome on explaining things
@@rspecmtb1908 thanks man! I was in the same boat when I was trying to figure all this out. So I'm like I need to do a video that takes it step by step and make it easy to grasp
I used to think so too until I understood what was happening. Too many videos give you pieces here and there. But also REDARC makes the process simple.
Dude, YOu are a freaking GOD. just stummbledacross your dual battery set up guide. YOu are the only person Ihave watched that didn't have me pulling what little hair I have left out. VERY simple, easy to understand, and calm enough to make me feel like I could do this myself. I am now a subscriber, and will be following you. Thanks, bro, from Portland, Oregon.
@@SamAlison63PNW you CAN do it yourself. Just take your time and map it out right and protect all the wires. Take it slow. Make the connections solid and you'll be golden!! Hit me with questions and if I can answer it I will
May I ask what you are running my friend with a 15k inverter? I understand having 400ah or more of battery especially if you want to go overlanding and be off-grid for days to weeks.
@@DustinEveritt Sorry. Typo on my part. It’s a 1500w inverter. I run a number of things depending on the trip and time of year. They can include fridge, CPAP, induction heater, rice cooker, and my EcoFlow Wave2 using a 24/12 DCDC converter during peak summer. My setup has changed since this post as well. Still 400ah but I now have 400w solar and up to 80a alternator charging. So the large capacity isn’t as necessary until you need over 100a constant pull for awhile. Hope that answers your question.
@midwestiowashooter how do you like the EcoFlow Wave? Does it provide heat as well as AC? I have been looking at whether to do a DIY "House" Battery system or to purchase an EcoFlow Delta Pro/Delta Pro 2 and get their 800 watt DC-DC Inverter Charger or get Renogy Lycan..
@ I like it but also understand it has some huge limitations you have to overcome. It’s not going to run on max long with its own battery so use it for when the sun goes down. It will do heat but will stop if the intake are is below 0 so in those temps a diesel heater is better. For you to really get it to run in either case a line time you need more EcoFlow batteries or use a DCDC 12/24 to allow more than 8amps in. No matter what you do I think some kind of alternator DVDC charger is a must to quickly top off. The all in on units are nice for their price point but they have limits. When you go full dedicated dual battery cost quickly jumps but it’s a lot more versatile. For example diesel heaters can sometimes pull more than the DC output on an all in one unit can provide unless you switch to AC power, but a dedicated one it’s all about how you wire and fuse it for the potential load.
Excellent - concise, thorough, quick - well presented. best I have seen on subject and for that matter, about every other install I have seen, Congrats. I'll be back.
Great video! I don’t recall you mentioning this, but with this current setup you have, in the event your main battery is dead, is it possible to have your home battery “jump” start it? Or do you need to add something else into this configuration to make that happen?
That I don't know. I have to find out. In other setups with some other brands it's as simple as turning on a switch. With the Redarc BCDC, I need to ask them
Asia, outstanding! I too went with redarc, but I did the manager 30 with redvision monitor-overkill? Yes, but worth it. Battleborn 100ah battery Distribution block I went with Egon DC Hub. To me this is a must and it simplifies wiring. Many years in the making but definitely worth the time and money. I run my fridge 24/7 w/o issues. Hmmmm 🤔 what can I buy next. lol
Nice quality and informative video. I ran into you and the other FAT (Florida Adventure Trail) members in Florida a year ago and I now watch your show. You are right about dipping your toe into the 2nd battery space as I have over 6.5K in my system as Redarc is pricey but good stuff. I did the manager 30, 1500 W inverter, the new blue tooth enabled display, and the Rogue (but I have yet to set up the rogue). I have solar on my RTT and an Anderson plug under the hood for a second solar panel as no one wants to always park in the sun. As the RedArc’s manager 30 has a shore power option, I ran a plug in connector into my rear bumper so I have various options for power. For my battery I ran an SOK 200 ah version over Litime ones as it was cost effective and it had heaters if I traveled north. I did buy two of those Litime batteries but used my SOK on my 4runner and I plan on using them on some other portable builds for other vehicles with solar and the dc/dc charger setup. I would recommend looking at the Redarc Rogue as it has dimmable light options and sensors for fuel, water, and possibly for a temp sensor.
Love the graphic overlay and how it turned white as you finished each section. Good timing as last night / this morning I kinda mapped out my battery setup in my subfloor storage. It's fun geeking out on that stuff.
loved this! super informative and to the point, much more comprehensive than most ive seen but without dragging on forever, so much info in such a short video
Great video I’m going to do something like this to power and electric air conditioning compressor. My car already has a sound system attached and the compressor would take a massive load on my car. So I was looking around for alternatives to not upgrade the alternator because there is no options for my car. I figured I would just at a house battery just to power the compressor. Thanks
If I can make a suggestion...never run your air compressor or winch to a secondary battery. Those are high amperage devices. USUALLY those items are tied directly to your start battery and alternator and use it only while the vehicle is running as that is designed to deliver a large CCA (cold cranking amps). Smaller devices like fridge and lights can run off your secondary battery as those would be tied to deep cycle batteries- not massive discharges at once. You can get hybrid batteries which do both (like optima yellow top) but I would still run it off starter battery with the vehicle running. Spoke to REDARC and even some of the guys in Australia and none of them advises putting high amp draw items to your house battery. I know you mentioned you don't have any alternator options for your car. That gets a little tricky then. And your starter is already overloaded with a stereo system. Maybe an on-board air compressor won't be the right path. Maybe get ARB's portable air compressor or those heavy duty ones that can run it without hard wiring. Just something to think about.
Redarc , good Aussie products. Wouldn't have any thing else. Im running a 40amp BCDCN1240 Redarc. Charging a 105a/h Slimline Lithium battery. Behind the seat of my PX3 Ranger.
Thank you so much about your video, its so simple and awesome. If you had to add a monitor control of your house battery, where would you add it ? Thank you in advance !
Well presented . You now need a smart shunt to measure you battery usage , and what you have to play with. Victron have a great one that is blue tooth friendly.
Good to know! Was looking at renogy stuff too. I honestly just didn't know how reliable they are. What do you think of their solar panels? I've been considering upgrading mine to 200w
@BaptismOverland I've had a renogy system fir 3 yrars so far without issue, I only have 4 100W panel and they work lol, not much else i can say on that, I have fitted 7 other systems using the dcc50s without issue, all on boats ( I work on canal boats in the UK), renogy quality seems fine but communication and after sales is weak 😟 if I had to rank them I'd put them top of the cheap Chinese products, maybe low end of the top tier,🤔 if that makes sense?
@@Dirt-Diggler makes total sense. That's been my take on them as well. Like you know what you're buying but damn, cheap pricing and it works pretty good!
@@BaptismOverland Realistically most of Renogy products are overpriced and are just relabeled SRNE stuff. Rich Solar for example is virtually the same but cheaper. HQST has the cheapest 40A MPPT Charge controller with Bluetooth for like $120. Can't beat that anywhere I've found. And it has the bluetooth needed for the app to get to a setting for Lithium. The others require an extra $30+ module
I have been dreading doing a dual battery setup for about a year now. After watching your video it is time to get it done. Getting ready to order the parts tonight. (Wife said to stop watching your videos). Will update how it goes. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
I thought you said the air compressor shoudl be connected to the starting battery but I notice you hvae a fuse in teh dist block for Air Compressor, so I assume that is running off the house battery? Also what amp fuse do you have for that since compressors normally draw alot of power
@@davehahn23 no the compressor is still on the starter battery. That fuse block, the label that says "air compressor" is ONLY for the switch that triggers the relay for the compressor. Basicallly your huge wires coming out of the compressor that actually runs it must go to starter. The switch is a thin wire that can go to any 12v source. Make sense?
@@BaptismOverland Thanks for the reply, that is what I did as well, I have the 6awg that came with the compressor kit going to the starter battery and the long positive that came with the Redarc wiring kit going to the starter battery as well. I did the grounds in the back of the vehicle so I didn;t have to run long ground wires back to the engine bay.
I don't think you need it though because there's already solar input built in to the Redarc unit. That's why I like it because it's all encompassing. I would suggest reaching out to Redarc tho and see if it's needed. I don't use a PPPT so I honestly wouldn't know
I have a bunch of venting areas that you probably can't see. Primarily in the front of the box just behind my air compressor and also in the back where the wires go through. This way air can flow through. Never had any overheating issues and this thing is on 24/7
That being said, yes make sure you don't fully enclose it. I also take solace in the fact that many people even install this in the engine bay where it can get really hot and they don't have issues there. But still, better to be safe than sorry so the more venting you can give it the better.
Great video just finished watching it. But I warn you😂 adding an inverter was a game changer for me, wify loved it just so she could use hair dryer, my ecoflow power bank charges faster with A/C. I even use a AC electric blanket, which can be more adjustable than 12v electric blanket. And finally I can use a small 110v electric heater in my RTT, with no condensation build up because it’s dry heat, possibilities are endless. The battery monitor is a must have. Since your battery is enclosed I would put an 4inch intake/exhaust fan that is temperature controlled, these systems are low cost on Amazon.
@@BaptismOverland A/c does drain your LIPO 4 battery quicker, but most A/C tools /appliances are used temporarily, but low wattage blankets/small heaters can last all night on low settings
@@tim285401 not worried too much about the speed of draining. I just heard the conversion fr DC to AC creates a voltage drop so the power won't be as high. But if you haven't noticed a difference then I'm gonna have to heavily consider an inverter! Is there a particular inverter you would recommend? Idk if I want to spend the money on the redarc one
If both my main and auxiliary batteries are the same (agm) could I use a battery isolator and a BCDC charger in conjunction? That way when the vehicle is on both batteries get properly charged and I have the most available amps
Well technically this unit IS the isolator also. It's all in one. When you buy from Redarc they say an isolator is no longer needed. That being said I would most def check with them first as I'm neither a sales rep or a certified electrician. But I never needed an isolator
Those are 2 vastly diff things. A dist block is just a way to send power to multiple devices. An inverter is a device that converts 12v to like 24v so you can plug in things that have an AC plug (hair dryers, coffee makers, chain saws). Fridges made for vehicles are 12v appliances. You don't need an inverter. It comes with a 12v socket. You CAN use the provided AC plug and plug it into your inverter but try never to use an inverter if you don't have to because the conversion from 12v to 24v isn't super efficient. Again, the inverters are really for those devices that require more that 12v to run I personally didn't install an inverter cuz I've never needed to bring an appliance that has an ac plug. But some people do
Nice setup and really very informative video for me to do it myself as well. I have a question here. Is it necessary for us route the grounding wire back to starter battery or we can just connect it to a bolt on a car chassis from the grounding post?
The important thing is a good ground. If you can find or make one, go for it! I almost did. But I routed it back to the battery because I already know that's a pure ground right there by the factory. Less resistance vs me finding one and making sure it's solid. Totally up to you.
@@BaptismOverland Got it. Yes, it make sense when the battery already has a pure ground from factory. Trying to setup mine next month. Hopefully everything goes well.
@@BaptismOverland I personally think the Optima's are way overhyped. I tried an expensive red top, it lasted a year ish. Got it replaced under warranty...the 2nd lasted the same...I said forget it went back to regular. I haven't tried the yellow.
See that's the beautiful thing about Redarc. It does it for you. It regulates where to get charge from. There IS no trigger lol. It has green priority which means it will draw fr the sun as much as possible to reduce the strain on alternator. And it'll then regulate how much goes to the secondary battery. Obv it doesn't draw from your starter when the vehicle is off 😂 only when you're in motion. The really good DCDC chargers do that work for you. If you leave it to a human to turn it on and off you'd be monitoring it constantly for dips and rises in wattage which wouldn't be something you'd want to do when you're driving nor would you know how much your secondary battery needs lol Not to mention...imagine forgetting to turn it on or (god forbid) off when you're parked and now you've drained your starter while shopping at Target 😂
Noted! I watched it back and realized I could've toned it down more. Also a few other mistakes but it's already launched. Will def keep in mind for next one
you need to have the Redarc SBI 12V 100A isolator which protects the starter battery as the dcdc controller using the blue igition wire can still drain the starter battery. The SBI12 is simply a smart voltage sensing relay than joins an auxiliary battery with a start battery when certain voltage levels have been met i.e. put simply 13.2Volt turn on and 12.7Volts turn off…without it you will run into issues. video explanation here from 4xoverland in australia. Called runaway discharge if you leave the ignition on accidentaly. ua-cam.com/video/rDXixCzg6iw/v-deo.html
So I actually messaged them about that and they said that it's not really needed. But I'll def take a look now!! Thanks! Also the blue ignition wire on mine isn't wired anywhere though
4XOverland is fr S Africa btw. I just know cuz I follow him haha love his rigs Also I don't think his battery has a cutoff like mine does. But I'm about to watch his video now and see if it applies to my application
Ok I just watched. It doesn't apply to me as I don't have a charger in my system. I'm also not using the blue trigger cable and my solar is plugged to auxiliary battery and not the starter. The BCDC I have (which is actually a newer version of what he has) has all the other charging like solar going directly to the unit. What he had is an older version where he had to set up other charging means separately. The unit is all encompassing and will basically take care of all those issues for you now.
@@BaptismOverland... My unqualified U2oob commentator $0.02 I too am learning here. Brother Murphy's questions appear to be nicely addressed in Redarc's BCDC Install Manual. As one would hope, good reasons for more $$ for a Redarc BCDC. For instance, the vehicle starter battery isolation appears to be a built in function of a Redarc BCDC, see the BCDC manual's "Turn On/Off Thresholds". The blue wire appears to tell the BCDC what kind of alternator & starting system your vehicle has, basically, old school or new skewel.
I enjoyed the music as it added an audio build up to the progression of the description of the installation. Great job with the visuals of each step of this install with both the camera angles and the diagram. The diagram was very useful as it coincided with the build. The charge controller and dc -dc charger design is money. I am curious on how efficient it is when you add the battery monitor. Thanks for sharing your time.
To be fair the setup is actually cheaper than the same capacity powerbank. I did a video comparing on board dual battery vs powerbanks and the pros and cons of each
@@BaptismOverland I don't disagree with you. I think the worst part about the dual battery setup is the cost for a bare minimum setup, even though its 1500kwh or more. Hard decision between that or a 800-1000kwh portable battery for less than $1k.
@@davileett1224oh I know you don't disagree! It's a great debate to have! I ran powerbanks for years and still do on my other vehicle. But I've been absolutely loving the dual. I can keep the fridge on 24/7 (paired with solar) and turn on rock lights and scene lights at camp which I couldn't do with a powerbank.
@@BaptismOverland Hmm. Might be worth the squeeze, especially for storage of the battery in my engine compartment. I could also use portability to bring power into the tent to power a fan or lights though.
Dude I’ve been researching dual battery set ups for around a month and there are so many complicated videos out there that overwhelm you with things you don’t seem to need and just bad explanation of things man you are just awesome on explaining things
@@rspecmtb1908 thanks man! I was in the same boat when I was trying to figure all this out. So I'm like I need to do a video that takes it step by step and make it easy to grasp
Just what I was looking for!! Great video! Just subscribed and sharing to my local group.
Man! You made this look so easy, I thought that those set ups were way more complicated than this. Great job!
I used to think so too until I understood what was happening. Too many videos give you pieces here and there. But also REDARC makes the process simple.
Dude, YOu are a freaking GOD. just stummbledacross your dual battery set up guide. YOu are the only person Ihave watched that didn't have me pulling what little hair I have left out. VERY simple, easy to understand, and calm enough to make me feel like I could do this myself. I am now a subscriber, and will be following you. Thanks, bro, from Portland, Oregon.
@@SamAlison63PNW you CAN do it yourself. Just take your time and map it out right and protect all the wires. Take it slow. Make the connections solid and you'll be golden!! Hit me with questions and if I can answer it I will
Awesome video mate!
Ive been looking at doing a dual battery for a year or so. Your video has help me realise exacty what i need. Cheers!
🙂 I started with a small 100ah setup, and now have 400ah, 15K Invertor with RedArc Revision setup. It's addictive
Hahaha yeah I'm realizing that now
May I ask what you are running my friend with a 15k inverter? I understand having 400ah or more of battery especially if you want to go overlanding and be off-grid for days to weeks.
@@DustinEveritt Sorry. Typo on my part. It’s a 1500w inverter. I run a number of things depending on the trip and time of year. They can include fridge, CPAP, induction heater, rice cooker, and my EcoFlow Wave2 using a 24/12 DCDC converter during peak summer.
My setup has changed since this post as well. Still 400ah but I now have 400w solar and up to 80a alternator charging. So the large capacity isn’t as necessary until you need over 100a constant pull for awhile.
Hope that answers your question.
@midwestiowashooter how do you like the EcoFlow Wave? Does it provide heat as well as AC? I have been looking at whether to do a DIY "House" Battery system or to purchase an EcoFlow Delta Pro/Delta Pro 2 and get their 800 watt DC-DC Inverter Charger or get Renogy Lycan..
@ I like it but also understand it has some huge limitations you have to overcome. It’s not going to run on max long with its own battery so use it for when the sun goes down. It will do heat but will stop if the intake are is below 0 so in those temps a diesel heater is better. For you to really get it to run in either case a line time you need more EcoFlow batteries or use a DCDC 12/24 to allow more than 8amps in.
No matter what you do I think some kind of alternator DVDC charger is a must to quickly top off. The all in on units are nice for their price point but they have limits. When you go full dedicated dual battery cost quickly jumps but it’s a lot more versatile. For example diesel heaters can sometimes pull more than the DC output on an all in one unit can provide unless you switch to AC power, but a dedicated one it’s all about how you wire and fuse it for the potential load.
The best overview and practical application video on this topic I’ve seen. Thank you so much!
Excellent - concise, thorough, quick - well presented. best I have seen on subject and for that matter, about every other install I have seen, Congrats. I'll be back.
Great video! I don’t recall you mentioning this, but with this current setup you have, in the event your main battery is dead, is it possible to have your home battery “jump” start it? Or do you need to add something else into this configuration to make that happen?
That I don't know. I have to find out. In other setups with some other brands it's as simple as turning on a switch. With the Redarc BCDC, I need to ask them
Great video .. Cant wait to do this for my truck. "Dual Battery SETUP!!"
Asia, outstanding!
I too went with redarc, but I did the manager 30 with redvision monitor-overkill? Yes, but worth it.
Battleborn 100ah battery
Distribution block I went with Egon DC Hub. To me this is a must and it simplifies wiring.
Many years in the making but definitely worth the time and money.
I run my fridge 24/7 w/o issues.
Hmmmm 🤔 what can I buy next. lol
Jealous! Someday....
Nice quality and informative video.
I ran into you and the other FAT (Florida Adventure Trail) members in Florida a year ago and I now watch your show. You are right about dipping your toe into the 2nd battery space as I have over 6.5K in my system as Redarc is pricey but good stuff. I did the manager 30, 1500 W inverter, the new blue tooth enabled display, and the Rogue (but I have yet to set up the rogue). I have solar on my RTT and an Anderson plug under the hood for a second solar panel as no one wants to always park in the sun. As the RedArc’s manager 30 has a shore power option, I ran a plug in connector into my rear bumper so I have various options for power. For my battery I ran an SOK 200 ah version over Litime ones as it was cost effective and it had heaters if I traveled north. I did buy two of those Litime batteries but used my SOK on my 4runner and I plan on using them on some other portable builds for other vehicles with solar and the dc/dc charger setup.
I would recommend looking at the Redarc Rogue as it has dimmable light options and sensors for fuel, water, and possibly for a temp sensor.
Well I guess I'll know who to ask when I get the other stuff haha I'm sure I'm gonna wanna grow it. Dual has been a game changer!
Love the graphic overlay and how it turned white as you finished each section. Good timing as last night / this morning I kinda mapped out my battery setup in my subfloor storage. It's fun geeking out on that stuff.
It really is!!
loved this! super informative and to the point, much more comprehensive than most ive seen but without dragging on forever, so much info in such a short video
Thank you! I thought it was too long haha
Great video Asia. I've been wanting this for quite some time. Beautiful timing. Appears Redarc does make it prettt simple.
Very well laid out explanation of 12v battery system👍
this really helped. The setup on my bronco is going to use 4 lithium 20ah batteries. Still need to figure how to wire those together
Omg four?! Phew! Lol
@@BaptismOverland american adventure lab sells a really nice hidden mount for 4 and a bcdc under the trunk. whole setup weighs like 23 lbs
@@Brightwoodphotos nice! I love their stuff.
Freaking awesome video, great work man!
Fantastic video! I am upgrading to this Redarc from a Victron DC/DC and this video is gold!
Keep me posted on the progress! Phase 2 of this video is coming out hopefully this week. Their Bluetooth battery monitor is killer
Really good video. You really helped me wrap my head around how the system can go together.
Great video I’m going to do something like this to power and electric air conditioning compressor. My car already has a sound system attached and the compressor would take a massive load on my car. So I was looking around for alternatives to not upgrade the alternator because there is no options for my car. I figured I would just at a house battery just to power the compressor. Thanks
If I can make a suggestion...never run your air compressor or winch to a secondary battery. Those are high amperage devices. USUALLY those items are tied directly to your start battery and alternator and use it only while the vehicle is running as that is designed to deliver a large CCA (cold cranking amps). Smaller devices like fridge and lights can run off your secondary battery as those would be tied to deep cycle batteries- not massive discharges at once. You can get hybrid batteries which do both (like optima yellow top) but I would still run it off starter battery with the vehicle running. Spoke to REDARC and even some of the guys in Australia and none of them advises putting high amp draw items to your house battery.
I know you mentioned you don't have any alternator options for your car. That gets a little tricky then. And your starter is already overloaded with a stereo system. Maybe an on-board air compressor won't be the right path. Maybe get ARB's portable air compressor or those heavy duty ones that can run it without hard wiring.
Just something to think about.
Awesome video brother. Exactly the info and motivation I needed to get this power set up before SAVE 2024!
We meeting up there or what?!!
@@BaptismOverland Absolutely! Where else can I meet my hero!
Nice Work Mate! Thank you for your support!
Redarc is great but for those on a budget. The LiTime or similar units does the same thing and can be more powerful at 30-40amp options.
Redarc , good Aussie products. Wouldn't have any thing else. Im running a 40amp BCDCN1240 Redarc. Charging a 105a/h Slimline Lithium battery. Behind the seat of my PX3 Ranger.
Thank you so much about your video, its so simple and awesome. If you had to add a monitor control of your house battery, where would you add it ? Thank you in advance !
Check out pt 2! I show you the best monitor you can get for this
Well presented . You now need a smart shunt to measure you battery usage , and what you have to play with. Victron have a great one that is blue tooth friendly.
I plan to get the redarc one. That'll be in phase 2!
@@BaptismOverland Just go in debt buy everything you can't afford...it's the current American way
Wow awesome video! Great install and the redarc is a great setup! I can buy an Agm or lithium battery and still use my old battery.
Nice work bro! Looks amazing and as always super clean.
I semi-shouted you out haha
The renogy dcc50s also prioritises solar AND it will back charge the starter battery with solar when the house battery is full 👍
Good to know! Was looking at renogy stuff too. I honestly just didn't know how reliable they are. What do you think of their solar panels? I've been considering upgrading mine to 200w
@BaptismOverland I've had a renogy system fir 3 yrars so far without issue, I only have 4 100W panel and they work lol, not much else i can say on that, I have fitted 7 other systems using the dcc50s without issue, all on boats ( I work on canal boats in the UK), renogy quality seems fine but communication and after sales is weak 😟 if I had to rank them I'd put them top of the cheap Chinese products, maybe low end of the top tier,🤔 if that makes sense?
@@Dirt-Diggler makes total sense. That's been my take on them as well. Like you know what you're buying but damn, cheap pricing and it works pretty good!
@@BaptismOverland Realistically most of Renogy products are overpriced and are just relabeled SRNE stuff. Rich Solar for example is virtually the same but cheaper. HQST has the cheapest 40A MPPT Charge controller with Bluetooth for like $120. Can't beat that anywhere I've found. And it has the bluetooth needed for the app to get to a setting for Lithium. The others require an extra $30+ module
Now that's one quality well put together instruction video ... awesome work 👍
I have been dreading doing a dual battery setup for about a year now. After watching your video it is time to get it done. Getting ready to order the parts tonight. (Wife said to stop watching your videos). Will update how it goes. Thanks and keep up the great videos.
😂
Any thoughts on the EcoFlow Alternator charger paired with the Delta 2 Max?
I don't have any experience with EcoFlow so I couldn't give a true opinion on it unfortunately
I thought you said the air compressor shoudl be connected to the starting battery but I notice you hvae a fuse in teh dist block for Air Compressor, so I assume that is running off the house battery? Also what amp fuse do you have for that since compressors normally draw alot of power
@@davehahn23 no the compressor is still on the starter battery. That fuse block, the label that says "air compressor" is ONLY for the switch that triggers the relay for the compressor. Basicallly your huge wires coming out of the compressor that actually runs it must go to starter. The switch is a thin wire that can go to any 12v source. Make sense?
@@BaptismOverland Thanks for the reply, that is what I did as well, I have the 6awg that came with the compressor kit going to the starter battery and the long positive that came with the Redarc wiring kit going to the starter battery as well. I did the grounds in the back of the vehicle so I didn;t have to run long ground wires back to the engine bay.
Wow you explained this so well man! Thank you
I have a 1000w 12v (PPTT) solar inverter is that ok for conect 2 batteries with the same diagram that you post.?
I don't think you need it though because there's already solar input built in to the Redarc unit. That's why I like it because it's all encompassing. I would suggest reaching out to Redarc tho and see if it's needed. I don't use a PPPT so I honestly wouldn't know
Awesome video bro!
Maybe upgrade to military battery terminals on the main starter battery.
Yeah I want to upgrade that whole area. When I was doing the install I thought to myself I should rework this
@@BaptismOverland you ever thought about doing the big 7 with JeepCables kit?
Thanks so much bloke. Very well explained, very precise and easily understandable for noobs👍🏼
Thank you SO much for this video, insane work 🤙🏼
When installing in such a closed box, isn't it too hot for the radrac?
I have a bunch of venting areas that you probably can't see. Primarily in the front of the box just behind my air compressor and also in the back where the wires go through. This way air can flow through. Never had any overheating issues and this thing is on 24/7
That being said, yes make sure you don't fully enclose it. I also take solace in the fact that many people even install this in the engine bay where it can get really hot and they don't have issues there. But still, better to be safe than sorry so the more venting you can give it the better.
Great video just finished watching it. But I warn you😂 adding an inverter was a game changer for me, wify loved it just so she could use hair dryer, my ecoflow power bank charges faster with A/C. I even use a AC electric blanket, which can be more adjustable than 12v electric blanket. And finally I can use a small 110v electric heater in my RTT, with no condensation build up because it’s dry heat, possibilities are endless. The battery monitor is a must have. Since your battery is enclosed I would put an 4inch intake/exhaust fan that is temperature controlled, these systems are low cost on Amazon.
Good to know. But did you see a significant voltage drop going fr DC to AC?
Also if you're on IG, message me with recos on that exhaust fan. Might be great to add that in
@@BaptismOverlandwill do
@@BaptismOverland A/c does drain your LIPO 4 battery quicker, but most A/C tools /appliances are used temporarily, but low wattage blankets/small heaters can last all night on low settings
@@tim285401 not worried too much about the speed of draining. I just heard the conversion fr DC to AC creates a voltage drop so the power won't be as high. But if you haven't noticed a difference then I'm gonna have to heavily consider an inverter!
Is there a particular inverter you would recommend? Idk if I want to spend the money on the redarc one
If both my main and auxiliary batteries are the same (agm) could I use a battery isolator and a BCDC charger in conjunction? That way when the vehicle is on both batteries get properly charged and I have the most available amps
Well technically this unit IS the isolator also. It's all in one. When you buy from Redarc they say an isolator is no longer needed. That being said I would most def check with them first as I'm neither a sales rep or a certified electrician. But I never needed an isolator
Can you talk about distribution box vs inverter? Do I need an inverter for a dometic 55 fridge?
Those are 2 vastly diff things.
A dist block is just a way to send power to multiple devices. An inverter is a device that converts 12v to like 24v so you can plug in things that have an AC plug (hair dryers, coffee makers, chain saws).
Fridges made for vehicles are 12v appliances. You don't need an inverter. It comes with a 12v socket. You CAN use the provided AC plug and plug it into your inverter but try never to use an inverter if you don't have to because the conversion from 12v to 24v isn't super efficient. Again, the inverters are really for those devices that require more that 12v to run
I personally didn't install an inverter cuz I've never needed to bring an appliance that has an ac plug. But some people do
Now you need more panels haha. 1.5-2w per ah at 12v is a good rule to follow for good charging daily. But with a DC-DC Charger it helps a lot.
Nice setup and really very informative video for me to do it myself as well. I have a question here. Is it necessary for us route the grounding wire back to starter battery or we can just connect it to a bolt on a car chassis from the grounding post?
The important thing is a good ground. If you can find or make one, go for it! I almost did. But I routed it back to the battery because I already know that's a pure ground right there by the factory. Less resistance vs me finding one and making sure it's solid. Totally up to you.
@@BaptismOverland Got it. Yes, it make sense when the battery already has a pure ground from factory. Trying to setup mine next month. Hopefully everything goes well.
@@tanchetming yeah I've had grounds I've gone to that has failed. So when poss I just go direct to source
@@tanchetming good luck bro!
@@BaptismOverlandthanks bro. Been spending months doing the planning until now only have time to start the project.
Awesome video, this will take out the guess work on how to hook up my dual battery setup! Also where did you get that jacket its pretty legit.
Haha it's a SuperDry jacket lol
Great video. Does the has batter have to be same type as aux battery?
No. I went with lithium as it's lighter
With a DC-DC charger it doesn't...that's the advantage of using one. It can charge virtually any other normal battery type.
Been waiting for this video
How did you wire up your inverter.....? From your fuse block?
I don't have an inverter yet.
@@BaptismOverland got it.
Are you running a regular vehicle battery or a Optima Yellow Top AGM Dual Purpose Deep Cycle/ Starter or equivalent?
My starter is an AGW deep cycle fr Die Hard. I'm gonna need a new one soon though and will prob go yellow top
@@BaptismOverland I personally think the Optima's are way overhyped. I tried an expensive red top, it lasted a year ish. Got it replaced under warranty...the 2nd lasted the same...I said forget it went back to regular. I haven't tried the yellow.
Great video, thanks!!!
Good stuff
See you in the highlands
So what tells the Charger when to turn on? The solar is obviously the sun. But what about the vehicle? You never hooked up any kind of trigger
See that's the beautiful thing about Redarc. It does it for you. It regulates where to get charge from. There IS no trigger lol. It has green priority which means it will draw fr the sun as much as possible to reduce the strain on alternator. And it'll then regulate how much goes to the secondary battery. Obv it doesn't draw from your starter when the vehicle is off 😂 only when you're in motion.
The really good DCDC chargers do that work for you. If you leave it to a human to turn it on and off you'd be monitoring it constantly for dips and rises in wattage which wouldn't be something you'd want to do when you're driving nor would you know how much your secondary battery needs lol Not to mention...imagine forgetting to turn it on or (god forbid) off when you're parked and now you've drained your starter while shopping at Target 😂
Great explanation and useful info, but the music is super distracting. Kill the music. Still a thumbs up.
Noted! I watched it back and realized I could've toned it down more. Also a few other mistakes but it's already launched. Will def keep in mind for next one
Yeah, man. Love the content and definitely subscribed. Will be watching out for future content. Keep on putting out videos!@@BaptismOverland
@@anthlaron well this next one won't have as much music lol and I think you guys will like the subject matter!
You da best Aloha from Maui 👉🏽🤙🏽👈🏽
I once raw dogged my battery. What a mess… I was young and didn’t know any better, but it was fine in the end. Pun intended 😂
Been there 😂
"Explosive Situation in Middle East" Someone has a sense of humor at the Time of India.
?
cool
you need to have the Redarc SBI 12V 100A isolator which protects the starter battery as the dcdc controller using the blue igition wire can still drain the starter battery. The SBI12 is simply a smart voltage sensing relay than joins an auxiliary battery with a start battery when certain voltage levels have been met i.e. put simply 13.2Volt turn on and 12.7Volts turn off…without it you will run into issues. video explanation here from 4xoverland in australia. Called runaway discharge if you leave the ignition on accidentaly. ua-cam.com/video/rDXixCzg6iw/v-deo.html
So I actually messaged them about that and they said that it's not really needed. But I'll def take a look now!! Thanks!
Also the blue ignition wire on mine isn't wired anywhere though
4XOverland is fr S Africa btw. I just know cuz I follow him haha love his rigs
Also I don't think his battery has a cutoff like mine does. But I'm about to watch his video now and see if it applies to my application
Ok I just watched. It doesn't apply to me as I don't have a charger in my system. I'm also not using the blue trigger cable and my solar is plugged to auxiliary battery and not the starter. The BCDC I have (which is actually a newer version of what he has) has all the other charging like solar going directly to the unit. What he had is an older version where he had to set up other charging means separately. The unit is all encompassing and will basically take care of all those issues for you now.
@@BaptismOverland... My unqualified U2oob commentator $0.02
I too am learning here.
Brother Murphy's questions appear to be nicely addressed in Redarc's BCDC Install Manual.
As one would hope, good reasons for more $$ for a Redarc BCDC.
For instance, the vehicle starter battery isolation appears to be a built in function of a Redarc BCDC, see the BCDC manual's "Turn On/Off Thresholds".
The blue wire appears to tell the BCDC what kind of alternator & starting system your vehicle has, basically, old school or new skewel.
Well either way my system has been running super good setup how I had it. I've not had any issues with my starter battery at all
I am!
I enjoyed the music as it added an audio build up to the progression of the description of the installation. Great job with the visuals of each step of this install with both the camera angles and the diagram. The diagram was very useful as it coincided with the build. The charge controller and dc -dc charger design is money. I am curious on how efficient it is when you add the battery monitor. Thanks for sharing your time.
wanted to listen to the info but why the annoying as fuck music i dont get.
Thanks for giving it a shot!
Made simple, just spend too much
To be fair the setup is actually cheaper than the same capacity powerbank. I did a video comparing on board dual battery vs powerbanks and the pros and cons of each
@@BaptismOverland I don't disagree with you. I think the worst part about the dual battery setup is the cost for a bare minimum setup, even though its 1500kwh or more. Hard decision between that or a 800-1000kwh portable battery for less than $1k.
@@davileett1224oh I know you don't disagree! It's a great debate to have! I ran powerbanks for years and still do on my other vehicle. But I've been absolutely loving the dual. I can keep the fridge on 24/7 (paired with solar) and turn on rock lights and scene lights at camp which I couldn't do with a powerbank.
@@BaptismOverland Hmm. Might be worth the squeeze, especially for storage of the battery in my engine compartment. I could also use portability to bring power into the tent to power a fan or lights though.