Agree. Excellent video and very well explained I went to lithium 2 years ago in my older Lance Truck Camper … 420 w of solar on the roof .. Upgraded the converter and it’s been a fantastic setup with 200 amp hour batteries
I agree best explanation I have heard. I understood all. There was 2 instances where he interchange lithium for lead acid and vice versa, otherwise perfect explanation.
Great job. Love how you went thru the whole video with basically no cuts. Just a great conversation. Also, the content was fabulous. Very clear and concise, and easy to understand. So much more than just doing a drop in replacement !!
Excellent video! Installed 600 watts of solar on my RV last year, changed my batteries from 2 lead acid to "3-100amp Diablo Lithium Batteries". I Installed all Victron Components from the Multiplus ll to the Shunt, Charge Controller, Cerbo and Touch 50 monitor and love the setup. The Diablo batteries are a game changer not only can I check the state of charge from the shunt but each battery has a bms and is bluetooth so I can check each individual battery. Justin from RV Solar Concepts was a huge help with a wealth of knowledge. If anyone is looking to install solar on their RV I highly recommend RV Solar Concepts. These guys know what they're talking about and their workmanship is 1st class.
Victron has been the market leader in control gear for quite a while but which is the "best" _battery_ changes frequently. Anything sold as "the best" by a reputable supplier will remain good for the 10+ years lifetime of your battery but the next model won't necessarily be as good as another brand so leave that choice to your supplier on the day. Most brands supply BMS & Bluetooth nowadays.
I had been told some of this by my converter company's tech department before I added another battery to my fifth wheel. Your explanation was clear, to the point and overall was explained in a way that any RV or boat owner should understand. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback! We've compiled a great deal of knowledge over the last 5 years on this adventure so we're looking to share that info and empower people to explore the world unplugged!
Very nice! You made it very easy to understand the sub components that are key to a proper LA to LI swap out on the house batts. Good presentation, easy for the even the novice to follow along.
This is the first time I have seen anyone properly address the voltage differences. It also applies to the current you can safely charge with. NiCad, Lithium, Lead Acid and other batteries, all have specific charging needs. I knew this from my Ham Radio stuff, that you couldn't just swap out different types of batteries. Radio Controllers for toys and models also are designed around specific battery types, do to significant voltage differences, and charging voltage and charging current differences. Eric gives RV Solar Concepts a gold star for doing his research. 😆
Well done. You covered these issues perfectly. One item I would add to this conversation. I have an off grid cabin in the very cold at times north country and it runs on solar. The only reason I did not go with Lithium is because the low temperature charging limitations of a lithium battery. Below 30F they do not do well. Take care.
In fairness , lead acid suffer from extreme cold too . Just to put that in perspective , i have no intention of changing to Lithium . It would be life threatening , used for the purposes i use them . Recently i have heard of several installations literally going up in smoke , without loss of life it should be added , but frankly i think it's purely a matter of time . The other thing is due to the nature of the risk , it's actually unlikely we will ever hear of such an event , which would likely be reported as persons missing , reason unknown !
Thank you so very much!! I have been researching for months on what I need to do to upgrade to lithium and will eventually get to solar. You did a perfect job here, straight to the point and not too long, and enough details so I know what to buy. This is the best video I have watched, and I greatly appreciate what you have done here.
Thanks for this, an excellent to the point video. I’m just about to covert to Lithium and did not know about the charge voltage difference. Looks like you have saved me a ton of grief, thanks again.
Thanks for clearing up the drop-in myth. On my RV, i contacted the converter manufacturer and to my surprise they responded with a diagram showing me where the lead acid/lithium dip switch is! A flip of the switch and I'm now putting out 14.6V! One 100 AH Lithium essentially has the capacity of two older 100 AH lead acid battery!
This was far and away the best explanation of doing the conversion, as well as explanations of the capacities and state of charge differences. Thank you so much!
Man this was EYE OPENING....my RV shop is really selling me on going Lithium in my class A, which I really want to do. But I am going to grill them on all this info before I do. I absolutely will put in these safe guards.....Thank you!
Yep hold them accountable! Dealers will just pop your old batteries out, put lithium in and it will perform like dog shit because they don't change the settings or the equipment to properly charge them. Then you'll be chasing non-existent problems and just assuming lithium is junk which is not the case, you're just only using half or less of your possible storage because they aren't getting fully charged.
Outstanding video! I watch a lot of these type videos and this one is the best of the best I have seen. You have done Will Prowse proud with your tutorial here! I just subbed and "rang" the bell. Looking forward to more of this content!
That was Friggin' awesome... very informative. I will add, one cool thing that lithuim is going to is having an onboard Bluetooth system telling you all the pertanant information eliminating the Shunt. I literally just got a new battery with this option so I have no idea the accuracy of it, bit it is extremely cool and may eliminate at least one item? Also, One thing that wasnt touched on is extreme weather, be it cold or hot. These things do have a window they must stay within or they will fail. Some manufacturers are adding shutoff options to the bms system which is highly recommended. Just thought I'd add that.... Thanks guys!
Very good basic info that everyone considering lithium conversion needs to hear (and understand) and they shouldn't be considering it but rather planning it. Thanks for presenting it very nicely.
Happy to find these guys on UA-cam, We had them install a 600 watt system last year and they did outstanding work for me down here in Ajo! Great video guys!
Great video about replacing lead acid with Lifepo4 batteries. Excellent explanation of all aspects of the two systems. I have done this change over three years ago, replacing my very heavy AGM battery with a 24lb 100 amp hour Lifepo4 battery. I have not changed my converter however, and have had no problems with the performance of the Lifepo4 lithium battery. I do have 300 watts of solar, and a Renogy charge controller that I set up for my lithium battery's charge profile. I also have a Renogy 20amp DC to DC charger rigged into my truck, and a have a stand alone 25amp battery charger that a lithium charging profile. You don't need to keep a Lifepo4 battery fully charged at all times. I just top mine off once a month.
Nicely explained in simple terms. I've been wanting to convert to Lithium in my Motorhome but did not understand the DC to DC charger or the shunt. Now I umderstand. I have done all the work on my motorhome but, for some reason, these items really seemed complicated. Now, I'll have to start planning my swap and wiring diagram so I don't get lost. Thanks !
Thank you! We just published a video on the installation and programming of the victron shunt so be sure to check that out and let us know if you have any questions!
I have been camping for 20 years and never disappointed with my Interstate deep cycle battery that I replace every five to seven years. I see absolutely no reason to change what already works well for me.
Do you do a lot of dry camping while using the A/C? New to RV camping. I live in the desert and just wondering what it would take to run the A/C at night.
This is the clearest explanation of the impact of moving from lead-acid to lithium I've ever seen. Yes, I read my Victron manuals, but still didn't understand the nuances.
Nice video. But I would like to say that my 4 six yr old Trojan 105 FLA's have been great for me & still going strong. I have 390w solar on roof & 2000w inverter w/Victron controller. If it's sunny, my setup gets us all the power we need as we camp where we have a good chance for nice sunny weather. My lithium friends run their genny's on cloudy days just like me. We don't ever need AC as we chase 60 to 80 degree's only. If we happen to be in extreme heat, then we'll get a full hookup spot in an rv park for a coupla days as we need to do this anyway from time to time to do laundry & such. Anyhow, just wanted to let folks know there's a simpler way with heckuva a lot less cost.
What makes FLA simpler? Or maybe you mean, if your gear is already specced for the more complex FLA, then it's simpler not to adapt to another chemistry. OK. Otherwise, FLA is more fussy.
Good video. I myself did just enough research before buying my battery. I have a Victron Smart Shunt and Controller. Been working great. Only problem I ran into was an occasional update resetting the controller to a non lithium setting.(hasn’t happened lately) I changed out my converter. Nice to go from 4-5 amps from the old converter to roughly 25-33amps charge with the new one. I ran into one guy who put a lithium in his camper, but was satisfied with it NOT being charged properly. My only (sort of) mistake; I bought mine a couple years ago, so yes a bit more expensive and had little options on batteries capable of proper charging in cold weather. Although I winter in southern New Mexico, i wanted to be prepared just in case. So bought a more expensive one capable of cold weather charging only to get curious enough to find the battery compartment never got cold enough for the BMS to kick the cell heater in. While rare, I still get into single digit temps but plenty(like 2 nights ago) temps got down to 16° and battery compartment was still above freezing.
Well that's good that you never ended up needing that feature, but it's there if you ever do! Yeah I think most people believe of the ambient temp is below 32 degrees then the batteries won't charge. In actuality, as long as the internal temperature of the cells is still above 32 they will operate as normal. In most cases, it takes several hours at 10 degrees or below to finally reach the point of triggering the battery protection.
I'm glad I watched your video. I'm getting ready for a cross country trip in our RV. Both of my current lead acid batteries are junk. I was going to replace with Lithium. But after watching your video, I'll stick with the lead acid one's for now. You saved me a lot of grief. Thank you for posting your video!! You explained it very well for the average person to understand.
It definitely takes a little planning and understanding to do it correctly so I'm glad you found the info beforehand! Thank you for your feedback, safe travels!
You can swap batteries amd do the other stuff later, it won't hurt anything, im in the same situation with 4x6v batteries that need replaced, I'm dropping 2 BB direct replac batteries, I do have a 200w solar system and I'm able to switch it to li mode.. BB said it won't be an issue, amd the solar can actually bring the batteries to full capacity charge
Thanks for this clear explanation on the compatibility of existing RV systems and tow vehicle alternator charge circuits to lithium batteries. I have an older 5th wheel rv (no solar) and need to replace my worn out lead acid batteries. I was considering switching to lithium but after checking my converter, it has an output rating of only 13.6V. Thanks to your video I will stick with my same lead acid battery arrangement by using two 6V Golf Cart batteries hooked in series to make 12V. It has served me well for the past 5 years.
Well, that is great stuff that I didn't know before. I've been looking into going to lithium in my RV and have spoken to several people about it, but not one of them have told or explained to me what you just have. None have recommended fitting a shunt either. Many thanks, you just earned yourself a new subscriber. David in the UK.
Great video, I myself am 100% Victron for the Inverter/charger/transfer switch, solar chargers and the battery monitor. It is so user friendly and the best, Bluetooth app controlled.
LA charges at 14.5-8v and floats at 13.6-8v. A Battery Tender will charge to 15.2 and then float at 13.8. EG4LL has an app that tells you everything, separate cell voltage, even the temps and bms temp. and the battery even comes with a balancer.
Awesome video! That's a good overview of all the aspects to consider before switching to lithium batteries for my travel trailer. That's a project for advised amateurs!
Been running my house off a large lead acid battery bank for over 12years before I switched to lifepo4. I guarantee you a lead Acid battery will not be charged if you charge it to 13.8 volts especially when they are used overnight. They need to be charged to 14.4 minimum and brought to 14.8v at least once every 2 weeks. Lead acid doesn't even come close to a lifepo4 battery. AGM for instance is a stand by power system battery with a lead calcium chemistry that doesn't like to be cycled it prefers a constant trickle charge that is why they used to be used in power backup systems like cell phone towers need. Lead acid is dead and can't compete with lifepo4
Lead acid makes for great engine starting batteries. I have had battery backup at home since the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. I had lead acid deep cycle battery bank, 6 volt Trojan battery bank, AGM 210 amp hour cell tower backup battery bank, forklift batteries. In 2017 I started using LiFeP04 batteries. They have their quirks but are miles ahead of any other backup battery system that I ever used. A 50 amp hour LFP lithium battery easily replaces a 100 amp hour AGM battery. All lead acid batteries do not bounce back in voltage after heavy loads ''the Peukert effect'' like a lithium battery does. Lithium charges much faster, retains a fairly flat discharge voltage curve until its discharged. They are less than half the weight, last 10 times longer and have internal protection BMS units. The difference between lead acid batteries and LFP lithium batteries is like comparing drum brakes to disk brakes. Disk brakes don't easily fade after heavy braking, water doesn't bother them, they are easier to replace. I have a 1931 Ford Model A with mechanical rods that pull the brakes. No hydraulics. Lead acid compared to lithium. If they worked so well, all race cars would have mechanical drum brakes. Going 50 mph in the Model A is like doing 150mph in my Toyota Camry. But you can't change the minds of old golf cart battery fans....
@@kimmer6 yes very true...seeing these videos is kind of bothersome because obviously they are not experienced enough to know what you and I have experienced for decades. Since I changed to lifepo4 I get over 30% more power out of my solar panels and hardly ever need to turn my wind turbine on where as before my wind turbine was constantly going. Also I never charge my lifepo4 bank more than 27.6v ever and I get the full 1010 amps hours out of my bank. And they are fully charged before noon! My lead acid batteries never ever were fully charged ever! .I monitor Amp hours with the wizbang Jr shunt on Midnite Classic charge controllers which is highly accurate. There is no comparison and like you said they are good for starting batteries that's all . Lead acid lead antimony are the true deep cycle batteries for lead acid and need to be cycled to maintain their capacity. AGM are lead calcium which are meant to be used for ONLY stand by backup power use and aren't designed for cycling. They have a lower self discharge then lead antimony does .I could go on forever lol . 😆 I won't even start with maintaining them lol
@@windpowerandmore6310 The last system I built for my buddy was 3600 amp hours with a dozen Chins 300AH lithium batteries in 2S6P 24 volt configuration. He has military vehicles with big 24 volt alternators and those are for last resort charging. My go-to battery monitors are the Renogy shunt units. Everything is on one screen and there is no need to scroll through screens. I installed a Victron Smart Shunt that he rarely uses as the signal won't reach out of his shop. We mounted a $50 WiFi pet cam near the battery monitor and he can see the live action from 2000 miles away using his phone. There are 3 inverters on the battery console, a 6000 watt split phase low frequency unit and a pair of 3000 watt high frequency low draw inverters that run full time and keep several big chest freezers and a pair of full sized fridges running in his shop. The pet cam has audio and you can hear fans running. The Renogy screen goes light dark light about once a second and you can see if the overall amps into the battery is overall charging or discharging from 50 feet away. Quick and dirty monitoring. One time while watching the system on his cell phone, we heard something being chewed and panned and tilted the cam to see a mouse trying to open a bag of bird seed. We put the laser pointer on the mouse and told him to stick his hands up or we will pull the trigger. Here's how the Renogy monitor looks through the pet cam.... Cheers! ua-cam.com/video/mDv3vl3WlAM/v-deo.html
I agree . I use in my boat lipo4 . Charge the lipo4 to 13.6 volt . So i do not use security from the lipo4. The battery will be 99% full. And the bms will not go off. A bms is a security if you go to high and close the systeem of. Its not use for 24/7 like people think
Best video, explanation I’ve seen on how to convert. Since I have Keystone’s 400i solar package I already have the Victron controller and shunt. Now I just need to learn how to change the settings; oh and a LIon battery
The other thing people don’t consider is where the battery is stored. LiPo and LiFePo4 are excellent batteries, but need to be kept away from extreme temperatures (hot and cold). Some have built in BMS systems with battery heaters to help in the cold, and also shutdown the battery to avoid a thermal runaway scenario, but generally an engine bay is a bad area for them. Also, a lot of vehicles are now equipped with “smart” alternators that will easily output 14.xx volts depending on the load requirement.
My Flagstaff 528MBS came with a variable charge controller. I can set the chemestry of the battery I'm charging. I've always known when I upgrade to Li I would need to change the setting to Li...but I never knew why. Thanks for explaining!
Thanks for the information. Was contemplating swap to lithium in my 2006 class c. Everything you have said has me realizing all the rest of the changes needed. I’m going to go with a solar powered Ecoflow system with a 400 watt charging panel. Just easier all around.
That’s one of the best explanations that I’ve see yet. I’m want to get lithium installed in my travel trailer and no one in my area seems to be as knowledgeable as what I’ve just watched in this video. Sir please tell me what state your shop is in. If your not to far I WILL DRIVE THERE FOR SERVICE 😂!!!!
I’ve changed to lithium but like you say I’ve also gone with all Victron equipment for my solar and mains charger as well as a battery to battery DC2DC charger. Everything is working brilliantly. I also fitted a Victron shunt so I know exactly the state of charge in the lithium battery, the old lead acid voltage meter although still in place wouldn’t give a state of charge for the lithium but still shows the condition of the starter motor battery. This guys explanation it’s really brilliant the only thing I’d add is go Victron they are the best.
AGM batteries also need to charge at 14.4 volts. Set your solar controllers accordingly. I had to set my PWM controller up as LI as it didn't have an AGM option.
Hello from Canada. Really love your videos. My question is I purchased a 200 watt solar system and was wondering if I need a fuse inline with the solar panel and battery. I have 2 12volt AGM batteries if you could give my some pointers it would be appreciated thank you.
Thank you, your video is informative,. A question: - So can I expect a 20w Solar panel designed to keep an acid battery topped up, to charge a Lithium type battery.?? Regards Pete
It has less to do with the solar panel and more to do with the solar charge controller depending on the application. We have installed solar powered gate actuators in the past that didn't use a charge controller at all and the 30 watt solar panel has kept the small lithium battery charged just fine for over a year with no issues.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you so much for taking time to reply, and your reasoning is, understandable, Its the charge controller that, likely would stop the Solar panel charging the Lithium battery. thank you again for helping me to understand. Your brilliant. Best regards Pete.
Thank you for this video!!! I am putting together a system for my home and you have good, logical reasons for your recommendations thank you for putting in the time and effort to share your knowledge!
I replaced the converter in my holiday to the powermax 100 amp and could t be happier with it . Its adjustable volts and amps make it great for the 12 volt side for lithium and being a little higher voltage makes all my other 12 volt stuff run way better. Ive also got a fairly large 24 volt solar setup but yeah changing that converter is kinda important to say the least
Other than your video, there is not much information (like you so clearly presented) about converting to lithium. It's time to convert my RV to lithium and now I know the converter needs to be replaced. Thanks and nice job!
I spoke to the manufacturer of my converter about hooking up a lithium in place of my wet battery. He said it will work but as you stated it will only charge to 13.6 max but you can use it down to 10% where as you should not discharge a wet battery past 50%. So you could get a lot more usage out of the lithium battery.
That's correct. No maintenance, 10+ year warranty in most cases, half the weight, and accurate state of charge readings are all great perks of lithium. They do come with a few drawbacks but I believe clearing those up is definitely worth the gain. Thanks for the comment! Let us know if you need help with anything or have questions when you swap over and we can make you a video explaining everything!
I have a 1999 Chevy 2500 with the 5.7 V8 and this was actually drop in fix for it. For whatever reason it never ran right when I got it and it always felt like it wasn't getting good spark I replaced everything under the hood electronics wise and still getting backfiring well lo and behold it needed a more powerful battery because apparently running at 12 or 12.5 or whatever it was running at was not enough.
Wow , thanks and I always thought that a lead acid required a trickle charge after charging and a lithium doesn't in fact trickle charging lithium after the Initial charge is great way to start a fire
Speaking as someone that has been living off large banks of batteries for many years I can tell you this guy is mostly correct if you want to charge your batteries to 100 percent however if useing/charging them to maximise longevity you won't charge them more then 80 % and not let them go below 20% in which case charging to 13.6 works very well as it's exactly the same as a fully charged lithium battery when resting ... but it's only about 80% full. By doing this "they say" you can extend battery life significantly... same is true with most EV's btw.
@dougjohns5115 100% correct sir! There are certainly different ways to maximize performance and longevity, this video was made just to make people aware of what is going to be required. A lot of people just drop lithium in and then say how horrible the performance is but it's not the batteries that are the problem, it's the supporting equipment that was neglected mostly due to ignorance on the owners part but advertising these batteries as "drop in ready" is not helping the situation.
Bluetooth batteries usually contain the ability to monitor their state of charge through their corresponding BMS app. In those cases, as long as you are within bluetooth range of the batteries you may not need a shunt because you can check the state of charge through the batteries individually.
@hacksaw413 located in buckeye, az. If you have anything you'd like to see or are struggling with in a project, let us know! We're always brainstorming new ideas to discuss!
I camp year round, and wish I had kept my old lead acid batteries! The lithium with lo temp cutoff leaves you with NO battery when freezing! I was shocked to end up with no 12 volts at all. Installing facon tank heaters in the battery box fixed the issue, but it ended up being alot of frustration and work. Self heating batteries would have been my best bet had I known. I installed 2 200 amp lithium iron phosphate batteries, lo temp cutoff in my rv.
Im from the UK. I work for a company that builds both diesel and electric buses. Two years ago we were told that we weren't building anymore diesel as the future is electric. Two years later we are only building diesels. WHY ! ) Well electric only bus loses too much mileage when the weather is cold they're silly expensive and only practical in a city ( not far from a charging hub )
Excellent video, perfect description and advice. Victron converters are great and their Bluetooth app makes them easy to program. I hope Airstream has upped their game; as of 2020 they only provided a voltmeter and it was out of calibration. It always shows 12.9 volts although a Fluke meter on the batteries themselves shows 13.8 volts. You are totally right, a shunt-derived amp-hour meter is the only way to go. Very sadly, the Airstream-installed WTF brand converter is integrated into the RV power panel and therefore is not easy to swap out for a lithium upgrade. Buyer beware, make certain the RV inverter is set up to power the microwave oven. Otherwise you will be at the rest stop heating your leftovers using pots and pans, which you must then clean afterwards.
Best video I've seen so far about converting a RV, including class c's, to lithium batteries. Very comprehensive and nicely explained. Thanks.
Thank you sir!
thanks Bro very helpful
Agree. No B.S. I watched it twice and took notes the second time, then I subscribed.
Agree. Excellent video and very well explained
I went to lithium 2 years ago in my older Lance Truck Camper …
420 w of solar on the roof ..
Upgraded the converter and it’s been a fantastic setup with 200 amp hour batteries
I agree best explanation I have heard. I understood all. There was 2 instances where he interchange lithium for lead acid and vice versa, otherwise perfect explanation.
As an RV owner using it off grid everything this man said about switching to Lithium is correct.
This is the best explanation I've ever seen on the proper process to convert to lithium batteries!
Thank you.
Great job. Love how you went thru the whole video with basically no cuts. Just a great conversation. Also, the content was fabulous. Very clear and concise, and easy to understand. So much more than just doing a drop in replacement !!
We appreciate that feedback more than you know! Glad you got some good info from it!
Excellent video! Installed 600 watts of solar on my RV last year, changed my batteries from 2 lead acid to "3-100amp Diablo Lithium Batteries". I Installed all Victron Components from the Multiplus ll to the Shunt, Charge Controller, Cerbo and Touch 50 monitor and love the setup. The Diablo batteries are a game changer not only can I check the state of charge from the shunt but each battery has a bms and is bluetooth so I can check each individual battery. Justin from RV Solar Concepts was a huge help with a wealth of knowledge. If anyone is looking to install solar on their RV I highly recommend RV Solar Concepts. These guys know what they're talking about and their workmanship is 1st class.
Good to see a local customer on the our new UA-cam page!! Glad to hear you are loving the system and we appreciate the kind words as well!
Victron has been the market leader in control gear for quite a while but which is the "best" _battery_ changes frequently. Anything sold as "the best" by a reputable supplier will remain good for the 10+ years lifetime of your battery but the next model won't necessarily be as good as another brand so leave that choice to your supplier on the day. Most brands supply BMS & Bluetooth nowadays.
I had been told some of this by my converter company's tech department before I added another battery to my fifth wheel. Your explanation was clear, to the point and overall was explained in a way that any RV or boat owner should understand. Thanks!
Thanks for the feedback! We've compiled a great deal of knowledge over the last 5 years on this adventure so we're looking to share that info and empower people to explore the world unplugged!
What a great explanation, another vote for the best beginners video on this subject!
Glad you enjoyed it! Let us know if there's anything else you'd like to see and we will make it happen!
Very nice! You made it very easy to understand the sub components that are key to a proper LA to LI swap out on the house batts. Good presentation, easy for the even the novice to follow along.
Thanks for the feedback! We try to keep it as simple as possible. 😃
This is the first time I have seen anyone properly address the voltage differences. It also applies to the current you can safely charge with. NiCad, Lithium, Lead Acid and other batteries, all have specific charging needs.
I knew this from my Ham Radio stuff, that you couldn't just swap out different types of batteries. Radio Controllers for toys and models also are designed around specific battery types, do to significant voltage differences, and charging voltage and charging current differences.
Eric gives RV Solar Concepts a gold star for doing his research. 😆
The devil is in the details, but it sounds like you know that sir! Thanks for your input Eric!
Well done. You covered these issues perfectly. One item I would add to this conversation. I have an off grid cabin in the very cold at times north country and it runs on solar. The only reason I did not go with Lithium is because the low temperature charging limitations of a lithium battery. Below 30F they do not do well. Take care.
There are many ways to deal with charging lithium in cold temperatures... a 12 volt lap blanket being the simplest/cheapest.
Keeping the battery inside the house also solves the temperature problem.
In fairness , lead acid suffer from extreme cold too . Just to put that in perspective , i have no intention of changing to Lithium . It would be life threatening , used for the purposes i use them . Recently i have heard of several installations literally going up in smoke , without loss of life it should be added , but frankly i think it's purely a matter of time . The other thing is due to the nature of the risk , it's actually unlikely we will ever hear of such an event , which would likely be reported as persons missing , reason unknown !
Thank you so very much!! I have been researching for months on what I need to do to upgrade to lithium and will eventually get to solar. You did a perfect job here, straight to the point and not too long, and enough details so I know what to buy. This is the best video I have watched, and I greatly appreciate what you have done here.
Thank you for the feedback!
Thanks for this, an excellent to the point video. I’m just about to covert to Lithium and did not know about the charge voltage difference. Looks like you have saved me a ton of grief, thanks again.
Thanks for clearing up the drop-in myth. On my RV, i contacted the converter manufacturer and to my surprise they responded with a diagram showing me where the lead acid/lithium dip switch is! A flip of the switch and I'm now putting out 14.6V! One 100 AH Lithium essentially has the capacity of two older 100 AH lead acid battery!
Nice! Glad you had a compatible model! You're off to the races now!
This was far and away the best explanation of doing the conversion, as well as explanations of the capacities and state of charge differences. Thank you so much!
You're very welcome, glad you got some value from it!
Man this was EYE OPENING....my RV shop is really selling me on going Lithium in my class A, which I really want to do. But I am going to grill them on all this info before I do. I absolutely will put in these safe guards.....Thank you!
Yep hold them accountable! Dealers will just pop your old batteries out, put lithium in and it will perform like dog shit because they don't change the settings or the equipment to properly charge them. Then you'll be chasing non-existent problems and just assuming lithium is junk which is not the case, you're just only using half or less of your possible storage because they aren't getting fully charged.
@@rvsolarconcepts Yes sir, thanks again!
Great information even for new, first time installs, picking out the correct components that will work together.
Best plain language explanation I’ve ever heard. 💪👍💯
This just answered a lot of questions. Direct and easy explanation. Thank you!
You're welcome! Thanks for the support!
Outstanding video! I watch a lot of these type videos and this one is the best of the best I have seen. You have done Will Prowse proud with your tutorial here!
I just subbed and "rang" the bell. Looking forward to more of this content!
Thank you! We will be working hard to get new content up that hopefully helps people with their systems.
That was Friggin' awesome... very informative. I will add, one cool thing that lithuim is going to is having an onboard Bluetooth system telling you all the pertanant information eliminating the Shunt. I literally just got a new battery with this option so I have no idea the accuracy of it, bit it is extremely cool and may eliminate at least one item? Also, One thing that wasnt touched on is extreme weather, be it cold or hot. These things do have a window they must stay within or they will fail. Some manufacturers are adding shutoff options to the bms system which is highly recommended. Just thought I'd add that.... Thanks guys!
Thanks for that, finally understand fully why a shunt is required plus the different voltages👍
Very good basic info that everyone considering lithium conversion needs to hear (and understand) and they shouldn't be considering it but rather planning it. Thanks for presenting it very nicely.
@jime9305 Thank you for the support!
Pal,this is the best video I've ever seen explaining the difference between the two technologies thanks
@@donaldpasley5119 You bet my friend! Thanks for the feedback!
Awesome video , detailed but no long winded .Well worth watching
Wow! Fantastic, and needed, information.
Happy to find these guys on UA-cam, We had them install a 600 watt system last year and they did outstanding work for me down here in Ajo! Great video guys!
Thank you sir! Glad you found us! Haha
Absolutely perfect! A clear and concise guide to replacing lead acid with LiFePO4. Thank you for your time and effort.
Thanks for a great video. This is the simplest and easiest-to-understand explanation I have seen.
Great video about replacing lead acid with Lifepo4 batteries. Excellent explanation of all aspects of the two systems. I have done this change over three years ago, replacing my very heavy AGM battery with a 24lb 100 amp hour Lifepo4 battery. I have not changed my converter however, and have had no problems with the performance of the Lifepo4 lithium battery. I do have 300 watts of solar, and a Renogy charge controller that I set up for my lithium battery's charge profile. I also have a Renogy 20amp DC to DC charger rigged into my truck, and a have a stand alone 25amp battery charger that a lithium charging profile. You don't need to keep a Lifepo4 battery fully charged at all times. I just top mine off once a month.
Your charge controller runs at 14.7 volts to top off charge on batteries?
@@hstorysalie 14.6v
Very clear explanation. I finally understand things that always seemed a little murky. Nice job and thanks.
Brilliant explanation and exactly how I replaced my lead acid for lithium using all Victron components.
FANTASTIC TUTORIAL! I learned so much. Thank you!
As a sailor switching to Li from older AGM batteries, I learned much from this video. Thanks for the Info.
@0guiteo you bet man! Thanks for the support!
Nicely explained in simple terms. I've been wanting to convert to Lithium in my Motorhome but did not understand the DC to DC charger or the shunt. Now I umderstand. I have done all the work on my motorhome but, for some reason, these items really seemed complicated. Now, I'll have to start planning my swap and wiring diagram so I don't get lost. Thanks !
Thank you! We just published a video on the installation and programming of the victron shunt so be sure to check that out and let us know if you have any questions!
I have been camping for 20 years and never disappointed with my Interstate deep cycle battery that I replace every five to seven years. I see absolutely no reason to change what already works well for me.
Different strokes for different folks! Glad you are having success!
Ok
Far less weight for the same power or far more power for the same weight.
Do you do a lot of dry camping while using the A/C? New to RV camping.
I live in the desert and just wondering what it would take to run the A/C at night.
Great information! You did a fantastic job with explaining the differences!
Thanks for explaining the Lithium battery issues to be aware of. It saved me a lot of trouble.
That's what we're here for! 😀
Many more areas of concern for a lead acid to Lithium switch than I thought. Thank you for sharing this frank discussion to educate us.
@@VidJunkie63 you're very welcome!
Learned a ton from this video, thank you. Extremely well laid out and clear explanations.
This is the clearest explanation of the impact of moving from lead-acid to lithium I've ever seen. Yes, I read my Victron manuals, but still didn't understand the nuances.
Glad you got some value from it!
Excellent video sir. Keep making videos, you are a good instructor.
I appreciate that!
Nice video. But I would like to say that my 4 six yr old Trojan 105 FLA's have been great for me & still going strong. I have 390w solar on roof & 2000w inverter w/Victron controller. If it's sunny, my setup gets us all the power we need as we camp where we have a good chance for nice sunny weather. My lithium friends run their genny's on cloudy days just like me. We don't ever need AC as we chase 60 to 80 degree's only. If we happen to be in extreme heat, then we'll get a full hookup spot in an rv park for a coupla days as we need to do this anyway from time to time to do laundry & such. Anyhow, just wanted to let folks know there's a simpler way with heckuva a lot less cost.
What makes FLA simpler? Or maybe you mean, if your gear is already specced for the more complex FLA, then it's simpler not to adapt to another chemistry. OK. Otherwise, FLA is more fussy.
Good video. I myself did just enough research before buying my battery. I have a Victron Smart Shunt and Controller. Been working great. Only problem I ran into was an occasional update resetting the controller to a non lithium setting.(hasn’t happened lately) I changed out my converter. Nice to go from 4-5 amps from the old converter to roughly 25-33amps charge with the new one. I ran into one guy who put a lithium in his camper, but was satisfied with it NOT being charged properly. My only (sort of) mistake; I bought mine a couple years ago, so yes a bit more expensive and had little options on batteries capable of proper charging in cold weather. Although I winter in southern New Mexico, i wanted to be prepared just in case. So bought a more expensive one capable of cold weather charging only to get curious enough to find the battery compartment never got cold enough for the BMS to kick the cell heater in. While rare, I still get into single digit temps but plenty(like 2 nights ago) temps got down to 16° and battery compartment was still above freezing.
Well that's good that you never ended up needing that feature, but it's there if you ever do!
Yeah I think most people believe of the ambient temp is below 32 degrees then the batteries won't charge. In actuality, as long as the internal temperature of the cells is still above 32 they will operate as normal. In most cases, it takes several hours at 10 degrees or below to finally reach the point of triggering the battery protection.
This was an exceptional video, very informative and well done.
The best battery etc explanation I have ever watched , thanks for that mate must appreciated
Jon🇦🇺
Thank you!
I'm glad I watched your video. I'm getting ready for a cross country trip in our RV. Both of my current lead acid batteries are junk. I was going to replace with Lithium. But after watching your video, I'll stick with the lead acid one's for now. You saved me a lot of grief. Thank you for posting your video!! You explained it very well for the average person to understand.
It definitely takes a little planning and understanding to do it correctly so I'm glad you found the info beforehand! Thank you for your feedback, safe travels!
You can swap batteries amd do the other stuff later, it won't hurt anything, im in the same situation with 4x6v batteries that need replaced, I'm dropping 2 BB direct replac batteries, I do have a 200w solar system and I'm able to switch it to li mode.. BB said it won't be an issue, amd the solar can actually bring the batteries to full capacity charge
Thanks for this clear explanation on the compatibility of existing RV systems and tow vehicle alternator charge circuits to lithium batteries. I have an older 5th wheel rv (no solar) and need to replace my worn out lead acid batteries. I was considering switching to lithium but after checking my converter, it has an output rating of only 13.6V. Thanks to your video I will stick with my same lead acid battery arrangement by using two 6V Golf Cart batteries hooked in series to make 12V. It has served me well for the past 5 years.
Glad we could clarify some things!
This video is OUTSTANDING!! Thank you for making the complicated simple. You articulated all of it so well. Again, thank you.
Thanks Steve!
Great things in this video that I would not have known. Thanks for covering these things. New sub
Thank you! This really helped me understand this process and the differences between them
You're welcome sir!
Great video very well explained details of how battery systems work, thank you.
Well, that is great stuff that I didn't know before. I've been looking into going to lithium in my RV and have spoken to several people about it, but not one of them have told or explained to me what you just have. None have recommended fitting a shunt either.
Many thanks, you just earned yourself a new subscriber.
David in the UK.
Great video, I myself am 100% Victron for the Inverter/charger/transfer switch, solar chargers and the battery monitor. It is so user friendly and the best, Bluetooth app controlled.
LA charges at 14.5-8v and floats at 13.6-8v. A Battery Tender will charge to 15.2 and then float at 13.8. EG4LL has an app that tells you everything, separate cell voltage, even the temps and bms temp. and the battery even comes with a balancer.
Awesome video! That's a good overview of all the aspects to consider before switching to lithium batteries for my travel trailer. That's a project for advised amateurs!
Been running my house off a large lead acid battery bank for over 12years before I switched to lifepo4. I guarantee you a lead Acid battery will not be charged if you charge it to 13.8 volts especially when they are used overnight. They need to be charged to 14.4 minimum and brought to 14.8v at least once every 2 weeks. Lead acid doesn't even come close to a lifepo4 battery. AGM for instance is a stand by power system battery with a lead calcium chemistry that doesn't like to be cycled it prefers a constant trickle charge that is why they used to be used in power backup systems like cell phone towers need. Lead acid is dead and can't compete with lifepo4
Lead acid makes for great engine starting batteries. I have had battery backup at home since the 1989 Loma Prieta earthquake. I had lead acid deep cycle battery bank, 6 volt Trojan battery bank, AGM 210 amp hour cell tower backup battery bank, forklift batteries. In 2017 I started using LiFeP04 batteries. They have their quirks but are miles ahead of any other backup battery system that I ever used. A 50 amp hour LFP lithium battery easily replaces a 100 amp hour AGM battery. All lead acid batteries do not bounce back in voltage after heavy loads ''the Peukert effect'' like a lithium battery does. Lithium charges much faster, retains a fairly flat discharge voltage curve until its discharged. They are less than half the weight, last 10 times longer and have internal protection BMS units.
The difference between lead acid batteries and LFP lithium batteries is like comparing drum brakes to disk brakes. Disk brakes don't easily fade after heavy braking, water doesn't bother them, they are easier to replace. I have a 1931 Ford Model A with mechanical rods that pull the brakes. No hydraulics. Lead acid compared to lithium. If they worked so well, all race cars would have mechanical drum brakes. Going 50 mph in the Model A is like doing 150mph in my Toyota Camry. But you can't change the minds of old golf cart battery fans....
@@kimmer6 yes very true...seeing these videos is kind of bothersome because obviously they are not experienced enough to know what you and I have experienced for decades. Since I changed to lifepo4 I get over 30% more power out of my solar panels and hardly ever need to turn my wind turbine on where as before my wind turbine was constantly going. Also I never charge my lifepo4 bank more than 27.6v ever and I get the full 1010 amps hours out of my bank. And they are fully charged before noon! My lead acid batteries never ever were fully charged ever! .I monitor Amp hours with the wizbang Jr shunt on Midnite Classic charge controllers which is highly accurate. There is no comparison and like you said they are good for starting batteries that's all . Lead acid lead antimony are the true deep cycle batteries for lead acid and need to be cycled to maintain their capacity. AGM are lead calcium which are meant to be used for ONLY stand by backup power use and aren't designed for cycling. They have a lower self discharge then lead antimony does .I could go on forever lol . 😆 I won't even start with maintaining them lol
@@windpowerandmore6310 The last system I built for my buddy was 3600 amp hours with a dozen Chins 300AH lithium batteries in 2S6P 24 volt configuration. He has military vehicles with big 24 volt alternators and those are for last resort charging. My go-to battery monitors are the Renogy shunt units. Everything is on one screen and there is no need to scroll through screens. I installed a Victron Smart Shunt that he rarely uses as the signal won't reach out of his shop. We mounted a $50 WiFi pet cam near the battery monitor and he can see the live action from 2000 miles away using his phone.
There are 3 inverters on the battery console, a 6000 watt split phase low frequency unit and a pair of 3000 watt high frequency low draw inverters that run full time and keep several big chest freezers and a pair of full sized fridges running in his shop. The pet cam has audio and you can hear fans running. The Renogy screen goes light dark light about once a second and you can see if the overall amps into the battery is overall charging or discharging from 50 feet away. Quick and dirty monitoring. One time while watching the system on his cell phone, we heard something being chewed and panned and tilted the cam to see a mouse trying to open a bag of bird seed. We put the laser pointer on the mouse and told him to stick his hands up or we will pull the trigger.
Here's how the Renogy monitor looks through the pet cam.... Cheers! ua-cam.com/video/mDv3vl3WlAM/v-deo.html
I agree .
I use in my boat lipo4 .
Charge the lipo4 to 13.6 volt .
So i do not use security from the lipo4.
The battery will be 99% full.
And the bms will not go off.
A bms is a security if you go to high and close the systeem of.
Its not use for 24/7 like people think
@@dyslectische definitely you're right
Great video. You should do more, I like your presentation.
Thank you! We are working on some new content, hopefully have it up soon!
Best video, explanation I’ve seen on how to convert. Since I have Keystone’s 400i solar package I already have the Victron controller and shunt. Now I just need to learn how to change the settings; oh and a LIon battery
@GregBozeen Thanks Greg! Let us know if you need any info or advice when you're ready to do the swap!
Both AC - DC chargers look like lots of energy lost to heat... Very informative. Thanks.
That was a very educational video. I was thing of converting to lithium and now i know what to expect. Great video!!!
The other thing people don’t consider is where the battery is stored. LiPo and LiFePo4 are excellent batteries, but need to be kept away from extreme temperatures (hot and cold). Some have built in BMS systems with battery heaters to help in the cold, and also shutdown the battery to avoid a thermal runaway scenario, but generally an engine bay is a bad area for them.
Also, a lot of vehicles are now equipped with “smart” alternators that will easily output 14.xx volts depending on the load requirement.
My Flagstaff 528MBS came with a variable charge controller. I can set the chemestry of the battery I'm charging. I've always known when I upgrade to Li I would need to change the setting to Li...but I never knew why. Thanks for explaining!
You're welcome John, thanks for the support my man!
Very good video. I just learned something new tonight.
Thanks for the information. Was contemplating swap to lithium in my 2006 class c. Everything you have said has me realizing all the rest of the changes needed. I’m going to go with a solar powered Ecoflow system with a 400 watt charging panel. Just easier all around.
That’s one of the best explanations that I’ve see yet. I’m want to get lithium installed in my travel trailer and no one in my area seems to be as knowledgeable as what I’ve just watched in this video. Sir please tell me what state your shop is in. If your not to far I WILL DRIVE THERE FOR SERVICE 😂!!!!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for the feedback! We are located in Arizona. If you ever make the trip, swing in and we will get you taken care of!
I’ve changed to lithium but like you say I’ve also gone with all Victron equipment for my solar and mains charger as well as a battery to battery DC2DC charger. Everything is working brilliantly. I also fitted a Victron shunt so I know exactly the state of charge in the lithium battery, the old lead acid voltage meter although still in place wouldn’t give a state of charge for the lithium but still shows the condition of the starter motor battery. This guys explanation it’s really brilliant the only thing I’d add is go Victron they are the best.
Lots of good info here. Great video ❤
Thank you for the support!
You did a great job explaining this. I will stick to the dual 6V battery conversion I did on my current rig. Next unit will be Li. Thanks
This is the best video that explains all of this. I have heard to be careful of these things and this actually explains it.
AGM batteries also need to charge at 14.4 volts. Set your solar controllers accordingly. I had to set my PWM controller up as LI as it didn't have an AGM option.
Thanks for that DC to DC charging tip.
Could you help me and tell me how to go straight from my alternator to a lipo battery
RV Solar Concepts, Thank you for making and posting this video. It is very helpful.
You're welcome! Glad you got something from it!
Hello from Canada. Really love your videos. My question is I purchased a 200 watt solar system and was wondering if I need a fuse inline with the solar panel and battery. I have 2 12volt AGM batteries if you could give my some pointers it would be appreciated thank you.
Thanks for the feedback! The output of your solar controller going to your batteries should always be fused.
Couldn't be more clear. Thank you!
Thank you, your video is informative,. A question: - So can I expect a 20w Solar panel designed to keep an acid battery topped up, to charge a Lithium type battery.?? Regards Pete
It has less to do with the solar panel and more to do with the solar charge controller depending on the application. We have installed solar powered gate actuators in the past that didn't use a charge controller at all and the 30 watt solar panel has kept the small lithium battery charged just fine for over a year with no issues.
@@rvsolarconcepts Thank you so much for taking time to reply, and your reasoning is, understandable, Its the charge controller that, likely would stop the Solar panel charging the Lithium battery. thank you again for helping me to understand. Your brilliant. Best regards Pete.
Yes, the desulphation and lead acid type float modes on lead acid chargers is a no no for lithium.
Thank you for this video!!! I am putting together a system for my home and you have good, logical reasons for your recommendations thank you for putting in the time and effort to share your knowledge!
Did not know about the voltage difference. Yhanks
I replaced the converter in my holiday to the powermax 100 amp and could t be happier with it . Its adjustable volts and amps make it great for the 12 volt side for lithium and being a little higher voltage makes all my other 12 volt stuff run way better. Ive also got a fairly large 24 volt solar setup but yeah changing that converter is kinda important to say the least
Great video, very informative and in plain English. excellent.
Other than your video, there is not much information (like you so clearly presented) about converting to lithium. It's time to convert my RV to lithium and now I know the converter needs to be replaced. Thanks and nice job!
Thank you sir!
A lead acid needs to charge to 14.4 + or - depending on temp. 13.7 is float. 14.4 is a perfect charge voltage for lithium as well.
I spoke to the manufacturer of my converter about hooking up a lithium in place of my wet battery. He said it will work but as you stated it will only charge to 13.6 max but you can use it down to 10% where as you should not discharge a wet battery past 50%. So you could get a lot more usage out of the lithium battery.
That's correct. No maintenance, 10+ year warranty in most cases, half the weight, and accurate state of charge readings are all great perks of lithium. They do come with a few drawbacks but I believe clearing those up is definitely worth the gain.
Thanks for the comment! Let us know if you need help with anything or have questions when you swap over and we can make you a video explaining everything!
I do the same, my generator charges to 13.6, I then turn off generator and let solar panels continue charging battery to full.
A very concise explanation - thanks!
I have a 1999 Chevy 2500 with the 5.7 V8 and this was actually drop in fix for it. For whatever reason it never ran right when I got it and it always felt like it wasn't getting good spark I replaced everything under the hood electronics wise and still getting backfiring well lo and behold it needed a more powerful battery because apparently running at 12 or 12.5 or whatever it was running at was not enough.
Thank you for this valuable information. Great video.
I struggled for a year to do anything with lead acid.
Lithium on the other hand has been amazing!
Good points and very helpful for many people out there.
Wow , thanks and I always thought that a lead acid required a trickle charge after charging and a lithium doesn't in fact trickle charging lithium after the Initial charge is great way to start a fire
The BMS inside the battery sorts that out, that's what it's for.
Speaking as someone that has been living off large banks of batteries for many years I can tell you this guy is mostly correct if you want to charge your batteries to 100 percent however if useing/charging them to maximise longevity you won't charge them more then 80 % and not let them go below 20% in which case charging to 13.6 works very well as it's exactly the same as a fully charged lithium battery when resting ... but it's only about 80% full. By doing this "they say" you can extend battery life significantly... same is true with most EV's btw.
@dougjohns5115 100% correct sir! There are certainly different ways to maximize performance and longevity, this video was made just to make people aware of what is going to be required. A lot of people just drop lithium in and then say how horrible the performance is but it's not the batteries that are the problem, it's the supporting equipment that was neglected mostly due to ignorance on the owners part but advertising these batteries as "drop in ready" is not helping the situation.
Great video you just saved me so many future headaches!
@edtorres1502 Yeah, if the RV is not properly equipped, it can be an "adventure" haha. Thanks for the support!
Super clear and useful. Thanks for making this video.
@unlikeschool you're welcome sir! Thanks for the support!
Very good and informative video thanks for posting ❤
Thank you, this was exactly the info I needed.
Great video! If I quickly heard at the end - the shunt is not required if you have a bluetooth enabled Lithium battery?
Bluetooth batteries usually contain the ability to monitor their state of charge through their corresponding BMS app. In those cases, as long as you are within bluetooth range of the batteries you may not need a shunt because you can check the state of charge through the batteries individually.
Excellent video! Very clear and well communicated.
Thanks. Don't know where you are but wish you were in Massachusetts.
@hacksaw413 located in buckeye, az. If you have anything you'd like to see or are struggling with in a project, let us know! We're always brainstorming new ideas to discuss!
I camp year round, and wish I had kept my old lead acid batteries! The lithium with lo temp cutoff leaves you with NO battery when freezing! I was shocked to end up with no 12 volts at all. Installing facon tank heaters in the battery box fixed the issue, but it ended up being alot of frustration and work. Self heating batteries would have been my best bet had I known. I installed 2 200 amp lithium iron phosphate batteries, lo temp cutoff in my rv.
Im from the UK. I work for a company that builds both diesel and electric buses. Two years ago we were told that we weren't building anymore diesel as the future is electric. Two years later we are only building diesels. WHY ! ) Well electric only bus loses too much mileage when the weather is cold they're silly expensive and only practical in a city ( not far from a charging hub )
@@daletinsley2954
It might be a good fit for a school bus.
Excellent vid. Great explanation, troubleshooting and recommendations. Thanks
You're welcome! Glad it helped.
Excellent video, perfect description and advice. Victron converters are great and their Bluetooth app makes them easy to program. I hope Airstream has upped their game; as of 2020 they only provided a voltmeter and it was out of calibration. It always shows 12.9 volts although a Fluke meter on the batteries themselves shows 13.8 volts. You are totally right, a shunt-derived amp-hour meter is the only way to go. Very sadly, the Airstream-installed WTF brand converter is integrated into the RV power panel and therefore is not easy to swap out for a lithium upgrade. Buyer beware, make certain the RV inverter is set up to power the microwave oven. Otherwise you will be at the rest stop heating your leftovers using pots and pans, which you must then clean afterwards.