I have all but put a duel battery set up out of my mind due to the cost but with this set up and the ability to add and subtract components it’s now number 2 or 3 on the list. It’s great to see both ends of the spectrum on projects for those of us that can only afford so much at one time. Thanks.
@@OverlandBoundI have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 engine. Not really enough room for a 2nd battery, so I'm going to great expense to make room. I've taken the heavy brush guard bumper off my 73 k5 Chevy Blazer, then added overload struts to the Jeep to support the weight of the bumper, and now I'm going to try to get the bumper mounted on the front of the Jeep (the big bumper also has a wench) then I'm going to mount the spare battery next to the wench, inside a marine battery box. I'll also mount a 5 gallon Jerry can on the front of the bumper and somewhere in there I'll try to make room to store the spare tire. I have a spare battery that will work for the second battery on a temporary situation until I can decide what battery I need to get for the second battery and afford to buy it. Some people say that I need a lithium battery, some say I need a marine battery, while others say I need both lithium and marine battery for the second battery. I don't know what to believe?
This is awesome! In a time with companies inflating prices for everyone wanting to just get safely outdoors and back these videos are essential! Thanks Michael and Corrie!
Edit: all these points are addressed in an earlier post! Excellent build! The only thing I'd like to point out is that when charging directly from the alternator like this both batteries should be the same in capacity and composition (ie lead acid). If you want to use a larger or different composition like I did (agm solar 100ah battery or the newer lifepo4 batteries) you absolutely need a dc to dc charge controller in line. That'll maintain the battery properly and act as a one way so you aren't starting your car from a battery that isn't intended to do a super high current draw like what's needed to start the truck. Also be aware that most starter batteries have a smaller capacity and you don't want to drain it past 50% or else you'll start to damage your battery. Ie a 100ah battery should never be discharged lower than 50ah
Nice video. a couple things worth mentioning: @9:20 with the relay wired to the ignition, it should be pointed out that if the aux battery is severly discharged (after several days of overlanding for example) then your starting battery is trying to start your vehicle AND balance the charge between the two batteries at once. luckily, with the way you've wired it to the power antenna wire, you can just turn off the stereo, to force the 2 batteries to isolate again. Very clever, even if it wasn't called out in the video.
If you up the budget (by almost double) the solenoid listed here can be replaced with a "cole hersee smart isolator" which includes a logic circuit. It isolates and reconnects based on the voltages present. so it leaves the batteries connected until the two combined drop below (I think 13.7 or .8v) and when it detects 14v (as in, from the alternator) it will wait 2 minutes before reconnecting the 2 batteries. allowing the starting battery to *just* start the vehicle.. and then after it's been running for 2 minutes, will reconnect so the alternator can charge both. I love that you provide "inexpensive" options, to go along with the "cream of the crop" options. I'd consider something like the cole hersee to be the "in between"
Thanks Michael. I saved this video to my overland folder. I'm a new Overland Bound member and this video is helpful and answered a few questions I've had about the dual battery setup.
Nice clean install! I like the simplicity. Since I'm an electrical engineer, I must point out a possible "gotcha". If you drain the house battery, as soon as you turn the ignition on, you will start "charging" the house battery whether or not the engine is running. This will reduce your cranking amps, and if you goof and leave the ignition on without starting, you'll have 2 dead batteries! Solution here is a battery isolator, but that would up your cost and it's solid state, so that goes against your philosophy!
I was thinking the same thing having a manual isolator to disconnect at camp and then start the car and once started reconnecting the two to prevent equalizing was my thinking and everyothing running off the home battery with a voltage display did i mis anything. Its manual and a pain yes but its 1 switch haha just dont forget to disconnect it or your in trouble 😂
Hey all - thanks for watching! Lot's of great comments and questions. Here is a top Q&A from the community: 1. Improvement: Manually switch your solenoid. If the house battery is completely dead - and you turn on the ignition without starting the vehicle, the batteries will equalize - draining your start battery. To avoid this - manually switch your solenoid and turn it on after your engine is started (contributed by Paul Adams). 2. Overlooked: Both batteries should have the same charging profile since there is not battery manager. I have two identical NorthStar AGMs. Same same. 3. Question: Can I use a stock alternator? Sure - However, if you have a weak alternator - it will not be up to the task, and may fail. I am confident in my OEM Land Cruiser alternator (its new), but I will eventually upgrade. 4. What about a "Smart" Alternator? Smart alternators become an issue with DC to DC chargers. They don't see a enough voltage to turn on so you need the small sensing wire to tell the charger to start charging the house battery. (contributed by Hillbillyjeeper WV) 5. Does this setup allow you to jump start your self by connecting the batteries if the starting one dies for some reason? Theoretically yes, but likely your house battery will be more drained. But yes. Also, see note above about Battery Equalization (1) 6. Can I put my house battery in the rear of the truck? Not recommended - you start getting into battery manager territory there - not really intended for this simple setup.
Note that this won't work if you have a variable voltage alternator. (most newer vehicles), if you do you'll just want to use one of the Redarc dc-dc smart chargers, which has an isolator built in.
Why is it not recommended to put the house battery in the rear of the vehicle? Voltage drop or?? Used to run batteries in the trunk of race cars with no issue, what's the difference besides having two batteries?
Just get an isolator or separator, im an electrician and nobody ever seems to make a video including these when they are needed for the systems health.
Question if having ignition on equalize the 2 batteries why can i just have a manual isolator switch that i turn off to connect the batteries once i started the car then i wont rely on the second battery as a starter or just spend the 150 dollers and buy a charger thats ment for it and forget about the worries of flat batteries
I did an even cheaper, easier setup in a Ford Econovan years ago. As the driver's seat was directly above the battery compartment I mounted an aux battery directly behind it in the rear of the van (to keep wiring short avoiding voltage drop). I connected them in parallel with thick gauge wire, grounding the negative of the aux battery to the chassis, and put a manual battery isolator switch on the positive wire connection with a fuse between the switch and the aux battery. The best part of the design was that I mounted the manual switch on top of the handbrake, so it just became habit to connect the batteries when taking off the handbrake after starting the van. I think it cost about 40 bucks for wiring, terminal lugs, a fuse and a switch.
This is dope. My grandpas truck is only 2wd so I'm taking alot of influence from you over land guys to build a bad ass fishing, campsite camping and tailgating rig
i have been running a duel batt in my cj-7 for decades. but both of them are connected together for double the usable amps. so i have really unlimited juice for the starter, the winch, and a couple lights. for the winch i use welding cable. and it draws less then the starter motor (smaller wire there). but now in this age sounds like time to install a third batt just for "other" things. including the lights. but yes fuse every wire. coming off a power supply or fuse block, switch, etc. yes cheap, easy analog is best.
Hi , Instead of the relay why not get a VSR (voltage sensitive relay ) They are $40 on FleeBay when the start battery drops below 12.7vdc it isolates the AUX battery then after you have started your truck the battery VDC will rise to 13.8 and the AUX battery will start to charge , I feel this is the best way as there is no shock to the alternator charging 2 batteries at the same time ,I have been using this setup for 4 years , Works great PS:I know the vid is over a year old but its worth a look , Rob Nowra NSW AU
Thank you for this! Question: Would you consider adding a Renogy 40 amp DC to DC Charger to this system? Secondly, probably a stupid question, but now that you have this set up, did you install a panel inside or in the back of the truck where you can plug in your fridge, USB ports, etc?
Those 80 Amp fuses look like the kind made for speaker amplifiers and they will corrode on you more than likely I think you could stick with them if you buy a armored case and put then inside a box though to keep the water off of them like a factory fuse box is designed for example or else they just will get to looking really grungy overtime.
Thanks for making an awesome video. Actually, I followed up on your relay panel instruction video and built up a nice and reliable relay panel and fusebox in my Landcruiser 78 troopcarrier. Thank you. BTW, greetings from Mongolia.
very well done video, mic'd up so we can hear you, no annoying music, and straight to the point ! Thanks for the great info! Gonna work on mine soon, since it only takes me 10 minutes as well:)
So my current system is even cheaper. I have a battery in the back hooked up to the stuff it's hooked up to. When the battery starts dying I charge it with a charger off 120, I don't have a huge draw and can run for a couple days with what I use and how I use it. Have been toying with the idea of a solar trickle charger for 30 bucks and just letting it go like that.
Personally though, I would run different chemistries for the two because i’d prefer to run lithium iron phosphate for the AUX, for the massive available capacity, but it cannot be mounted under hood due to temperatures it sees. So a DC:DC charge controller in the boot with the lithium battery would be my choice.
Elegant, simple system. You really don't need any more. I've had a similar system in my 11 year old Troopy (VDJ78R) since new with a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) instead of an ignition switch activated one. The VSR has the small advantage of always ensuring that the cranking battery is fully charged before charging the house battery. I have an 80lt fridge, a handful of LED lights and the occasional USB powered device drawing from the house battery which is also augmented by a 200w solar panel. For all practical purposes there seems no need for a state of the art (expensive) battery management system that I can see. I love your videos.
Yes - I was woried about the alternator output of some vehicles being overloaded by recharging both batteries simultaneously - the VSR elliminates this issue, and the risk that a very flat Aux battery will immediately start drawing from the cranking battery when the ignition is on (thus loading the cranking battery just when it's needed for an engine start). A VSR is ESSENTIAL, not just an optional item.
Not a good idea to have it linked to your ignition... because the batteries will equalise almost immediately when the ignition is switched...if you drain the house battery completely & turn the ignition on without starting immediately...you’ll be stuck. Other factors like a start battery on the way out, or a engine that doesn’t want to start immediately..will also magnify this situation. In my system... I have a manual switch between ignition & solenoid. Which remains off until vehicle is running... then I switch it on. By doing it this way your guarantee your starting ability...
That's a good point - I have a new engine and a one turn start. I also have a jump starter - but well - that defeats the purpose. Wiring a manual switch to the solenoid is a good idea.
@@OverlandBound You effectively already have the "switch" since you used the power antenna lead. When you turn off the stereo, the power to the "antenna" (solenoid) is cut.
i assume this would also give you the ability to jump start your own vehicle? unless you have one of those handheld jump rechargeable units that can do it of course
Trying to get my setup together now. So why even move to a complicated, and very expensive, "battery management system" if the analog version works perfectly fine and is easier to diagnose and repair? Does it do something else worth the price increase?
It's the charging profile. A "smart" battery management system allows you to have two different batteries and it will smartly charge them based on their requirements - making sure they don't overcharge, and charge them at the optimal rate. This extends the life of your batteries significantly. Since batteries can be $500 - you want them to last as long as you can. As long as you have the same type of battery on this less expensive setup - you will be OK.
Wow , excellent briefing on your know how cheap setup. this is probably more reliable than the systems trying to reinvent the wheel. I've seen many videos and have thought about the solenoid. Thank you, sir, for confirming. Question: it should work with a junction box/solar panel added on to the relay?
Just one amendment Michael: Place the first fuse closer to the starter battery. Really, I urge you. Lots of metal close to the 4 AWG wire. Imagine the radiator cracking the insulation in an head on accident .. Secondly: get your alternator tested. Unless both batteries were fully charged, it should read 14.4V even when idling ..
Where is the starter in the diagram? If the relay switches when the key is in, you have 2 batteries starting and 2 batteries for accessory. You need to switch on the accessory side on after the car is started to have a separate start battery
i guess the main benefit would be when the vehicle is off you can power things off the 2nd battery. But when you turn the key to start the engine the main battery will drop in voltage to fill the 2nd battery?
Why can't you just put a set of jump leads from the car battery to the leisure battery,and then when you use the leisure battery take of the live jump lead of the leisure battery
Two questions: 1) The added 100A switch/fuse is downstream of the house battery, yeah? All I'd like to do in my tundra is something similar but I'll house the house battery in the pick up topper, then from there, just a 12v outlet thingy or perhaps an inverter and that's it. 2) How often are you buying/replacing tires?
Thank you man, this is one of my next projects and this made it _a lot_ more straight forward, also the analog aspect of it is very appealing since swapping a fuse or relay is cheaper then replacing a charge controller
Do I need more wire gauge tubing for a 2000 amp Inverter? And also what amp Auxillary Battery should I get? Thank you Great job with presentation. Simple & to the point.👍🖖
awesome vid but i think that when you drain your house battery since batteries are hooked up parallel, then the voltage will equalize, leaving you unable to start your truck on that 9 volts or so. hope you didnt find this out the hard way
Great video! I have many questions. Does this setup run fine on a stock alternator? Could it do any damage to the alternator by pulling too much? Can the house battery be a deep cycle battery and would that be recommended since you might be running it down and recharging many times? Can the house battery be placed in the rear of the truck? Any issues with distance from the primary battery or alternator? Would you need bigger wires?
Hi Don. Thank s for watching! 1. Alternator: Sure - it should be in good shape. There is voltage drop to the second battery. You will benefit from an upgraded alternator. My setup runs and charges fine. It is a new OEM alternator. It also depends on the make of car - Land Cruisers are over-built. 2. If your alternator is already in bad shape, or you drive a Yugo, probably, especially if you have a lot of accessories that you run all day, with extended hours of operation. In MOST cases, you should be fine. 3. Deep Cycle - Yes. Your batteries should have the same charging profile - otherwise you will get different charge rates, shorter battery life, and perhaps other long-term issues. Mine are matching Northstar AGMs. 4. Rear of truck - I wouldn't recommend but you could. The farther away it is, the more voltage drop you have, and your alternator will be trying to charge both batteries, so, for me that means inefficient charging on both your house and start battery. If you go this route - do a lot of research on wire gauge and alternator requirements. If you upgraded this proposed simple system - perhaps with a battery manager - you definitely could. 5. Yes. 6. Yes.
I turned my 96 Dodge ram into a camper-truck... So I've been wanting to set up the dual battery system. But what extra would I have to add to it to be able to run a tv, and microwave?
The whole purpose of this setup will be defeated the moment you turn on the ignition. If the aux battery is discharged, the moment you turn the ignition key, the two battery connect and the drained aux battery will drain all the charge from the main battery and you end up with two below par batteries.
Hey Love your channel I am thinking of doing similar I am currently running idc25 to charge second battery using solar when off grid . I have a 110ah agm and would like to use same ah battery as my starter battery as it’s dual purpose How can I use your system but still use solar charging Thanks heaps
thank you, I'm a poor boy and lucky to have my 2014 stock ram with little to no mechanical experience. looking into these I cant believe the prices been subscribed for a long time will try to scratch money together to join . THANKS AGAIN FOR LOOKING OUT FOR THE ONES WITH LESS KNOWLEDGE AND NO MONEY. From Michigan City, In.
i like this simple and cheap idea instead of a diode or mosfet isolator. So how does this work when the aux(deep cycle) battery is drained, then you turn the key switch on to start the vehicle. Soon as you turn the ignition on(before cranking the engine) will this be affecting the condition of the starting battery to get your engine cranked over?
Awesome explanation. With this set up be sure both batterys are the same lead acid type and size, which is a bonus as if your main battery dies in the bush you can swap in the second one. Hint new cars with smart alternators, you dont need a dc/dc charger for this setup, turn your head lights on so the alt runs at full charge, this makes sure your batterys are fully charged.
For those of you wanting to do this keep these things in mind. 1.) Make sure the battery chemistries are the same for both batteries. If you have an AGM battery make sure the AUX battery is also AGM 2.) There is no Battery Management (BMS) meaning your AUX battery will drain and likely be damaged if you are not manually keeping an eye on the voltage.
Nice video. useful info. All the power plugs in the vehicle run off the original battery. is it worth rewiring the outlets to run off the second isolated battery.
Hello Michael, Michael here...I was curious to how you came up with the 80 amp fuse. What accessories are you using? What is the draw for the fridge etc.? I know that you have a fuse panel and that each accessory will have its own fuse as per the draw. Just curious as to why 80? Thank you.
Can you hear the isolator turn on when you turn on acc? Mine is quiet, I also took a multimeter to it and am getting the same reading when it's on as when it's off? Is there a certain way to read it? Thanks!
question... on the 4guage cables. Couldnt we just buy a 4 guage jumper cable and cut those and use them instead? reason being.... I can buy a 20 foot jumper cables for $20 and save a bunch lol
Quick question. You wired your relay to the ON position on the key? os as soon as you turn the key to ON (before start) the two battery are connected. Am I understanding correctly?
I am just about to install a dual battery 12v (90amp each )system without an isolator, in my case the fuse should be more than 80amp ? I am thinking of getting 120amp or 150 amp is it ok? Any help appreciated thank you
Wait, so once everything is hooked up and working right. How do you use your accessories? Do you use the regular car outlets, for example the DC outlet in the back of my SUV where the trunk is? or is there a separate outlet you use for the accessories that is attached to the house battery? Right now I can’t use the DC outlet in my trunk when the car is turned off for obvious safety reasons, like to not drain the car battery over night.
I like it. One concern is the rate of charge balancing when you have a full starter battery and dead AUX battery; it may exceed 80A and blow the fuse charging, but this can be remedied with a 0.2 Ohm 1000 watt resistor in series with the fuse. The 2nd fuse between the solenoid and the AUX isn’t doing anything. The AUX breaker should be closer to the AUX battery.
If my alternator puts out 200 amps and I have a 250 amp fuse before my battery why wouldn't the second battery need a 250 amp as well not 80 like you did.
I did basically the same thing on my FJC, I interrupted the negative cable with a continuous duty solenoid, power off the house battery to the solenoid, switch in the cab to the other connection on solenoid, and to ground. I found that the solenoid got hot if connected for a length of time, so I connect them only when aux battery is low and no sunshine for my solar panel to charge aux battery
Can you explain hooking up an inverter to this system after the auxiliary battery and a possible hookup for a 100w solar panel to it as well? This part makes sense to me. I'm very new to all of this. But I would like to see something for everything behind the auxiliary battery if you can please. I would like to have my auxiliary battery and inverter in the bed of my truck with my camper build
@Michael Thanks a lot for great solution. I am going to use your solution but will wire solenoid to switch so I have more control. Before I go ahead I see that you have put 80A fuses between the two battery connection, so my concern is what happens if I drain my starter battery all the way then try to start using auxiliary battery . Will the starter not draw lot more current than 80A if so what could be best solution to handle this.
Can i charge a 2nd battery from my rear ciggy lighter port? it think it rated to like 15A and I'm only going to run a small battery until i do a proper setup. Just looking to do this for 1-2 trips.
I knew you would eventually do this. 👍 Aside from the Red Arc system I used many of the same fuses and materials. One area of concern for me is my alternator though only being a 60amp. I'm not sure what the fj80 is rated at but any plans to upgrade to a higher amperage alternator to get the best charge out of the batteries?
With this setup, would you want to use a lithium phosphate battery or are they to finicky and have a chance to run them down . Also would charge when temps were to cold. Or is that controled in those batteries
Why go with a Redarc DC to DC if this is all you need to charge a dual battery? Your set up seems to be a LA to a LA battery and not a LA to a LiFePo. Nothing in this set knows the house battery and its needs and flow rate.
Do you necessarily have to use the same exact battery as your second battery matching to your main battery? Meaning do they both have to be the same exact size. second question is it normal for the solenoid to get super hot hot to the point that you can’t touch it more than three seconds cause it burns you?
With this set up, if you run your accessory battery down... when you turn the key on, your starter battery may not start your truck, as it will be charging the accessory battery.
I would imagine you would have to upgrade your alternator as well for those times when you do drain your house battery even with a master switch???? Am I right?🤔☹️🧐
I have all but put a duel battery set up out of my mind due to the cost but with this set up and the ability to add and subtract components it’s now number 2 or 3 on the list. It’s great to see both ends of the spectrum on projects for those of us that can only afford so much at one time. Thanks.
Yup - figured I would get this hooked up and share it before putting in the deluxe version in a few weeks.
@@OverlandBoundI have a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee v8 engine. Not really enough room for a 2nd battery, so I'm going to great expense to make room. I've taken the heavy brush guard bumper off my 73 k5 Chevy Blazer, then added overload struts to the Jeep to support the weight of the bumper, and now I'm going to try to get the bumper mounted on the front of the Jeep (the big bumper also has a wench) then I'm going to mount the spare battery next to the wench, inside a marine battery box. I'll also mount a 5 gallon Jerry can on the front of the bumper and somewhere in there I'll try to make room to store the spare tire. I have a spare battery that will work for the second battery on a temporary situation until I can decide what battery I need to get for the second battery and afford to buy it. Some people say that I need a lithium battery, some say I need a marine battery, while others say I need both lithium and marine battery for the second battery. I don't know what to believe?
*dual 😏
This is awesome! In a time with companies inflating prices for everyone wanting to just get safely outdoors and back these videos are essential! Thanks Michael and Corrie!
This instantly went into my "Overland to do list" Thanks!!
Edit: all these points are addressed in an earlier post!
Excellent build! The only thing I'd like to point out is that when charging directly from the alternator like this both batteries should be the same in capacity and composition (ie lead acid). If you want to use a larger or different composition like I did (agm solar 100ah battery or the newer lifepo4 batteries) you absolutely need a dc to dc charge controller in line. That'll maintain the battery properly and act as a one way so you aren't starting your car from a battery that isn't intended to do a super high current draw like what's needed to start the truck. Also be aware that most starter batteries have a smaller capacity and you don't want to drain it past 50% or else you'll start to damage your battery. Ie a 100ah battery should never be discharged lower than 50ah
Yup - pinned post mentions this - in my case, both batteries are matching NorthStar AGM.
Nice video. a couple things worth mentioning: @9:20 with the relay wired to the ignition, it should be pointed out that if the aux battery is severly discharged (after several days of overlanding for example) then your starting battery is trying to start your vehicle AND balance the charge between the two batteries at once. luckily, with the way you've wired it to the power antenna wire, you can just turn off the stereo, to force the 2 batteries to isolate again. Very clever, even if it wasn't called out in the video.
If you up the budget (by almost double) the solenoid listed here can be replaced with a "cole hersee smart isolator" which includes a logic circuit. It isolates and reconnects based on the voltages present. so it leaves the batteries connected until the two combined drop below (I think 13.7 or .8v) and when it detects 14v (as in, from the alternator) it will wait 2 minutes before reconnecting the 2 batteries. allowing the starting battery to *just* start the vehicle.. and then after it's been running for 2 minutes, will reconnect so the alternator can charge both. I love that you provide "inexpensive" options, to go along with the "cream of the crop" options. I'd consider something like the cole hersee to be the "in between"
What a champion I just needed something simple for a long drive and this is perfect excellent video !
Cant wait to start my set up….need to free up some room first….but with a 1971 Bronco it should be too hard. Love the channel
Thank you!
Old school, dude. Those old Ford rigs, Bronco's, 4x4 pickups were some tough built hombre's.
Thanks Michael. I saved this video to my overland folder. I'm a new Overland Bound member and this video is helpful and answered a few questions I've had about the dual battery setup.
Awesome! Glad to hear it!
Nice clean install! I like the simplicity. Since I'm an electrical engineer, I must point out a possible "gotcha". If you drain the house battery, as soon as you turn the ignition on, you will start "charging" the house battery whether or not the engine is running. This will reduce your cranking amps, and if you goof and leave the ignition on without starting, you'll have 2 dead batteries! Solution here is a battery isolator, but that would up your cost and it's solid state, so that goes against your philosophy!
I was thinking the same thing having a manual isolator to disconnect at camp and then start the car and once started reconnecting the two to prevent equalizing was my thinking and everyothing running off the home battery with a voltage display did i mis anything. Its manual and a pain yes but its 1 switch haha just dont forget to disconnect it or your in trouble 😂
Hey all - thanks for watching! Lot's of great comments and questions. Here is a top Q&A from the community:
1. Improvement: Manually switch your solenoid. If the house battery is completely dead - and you turn on the ignition without starting the vehicle, the batteries will equalize - draining your start battery. To avoid this - manually switch your solenoid and turn it on after your engine is started (contributed by Paul Adams).
2. Overlooked: Both batteries should have the same charging profile since there is not battery manager. I have two identical NorthStar AGMs. Same same.
3. Question: Can I use a stock alternator? Sure - However, if you have a weak alternator - it will not be up to the task, and may fail. I am confident in my OEM Land Cruiser alternator (its new), but I will eventually upgrade.
4. What about a "Smart" Alternator? Smart alternators become an issue with DC to DC chargers. They don't see a enough voltage to turn on so you need the small sensing wire to tell the charger to start charging the house battery. (contributed by Hillbillyjeeper WV)
5. Does this setup allow you to jump start your self by connecting the batteries if the starting one dies for some reason? Theoretically yes, but likely your house battery will be more drained. But yes. Also, see note above about Battery Equalization (1)
6. Can I put my house battery in the rear of the truck? Not recommended - you start getting into battery manager territory there - not really intended for this simple setup.
Note that this won't work if you have a variable voltage alternator. (most newer vehicles), if you do you'll just want to use one of the Redarc dc-dc smart chargers, which has an isolator built in.
Do you have a solenoid that you recommend or have specs?
Why is it not recommended to put the house battery in the rear of the vehicle? Voltage drop or??
Used to run batteries in the trunk of race cars with no issue, what's the difference besides having two batteries?
Just get an isolator or separator, im an electrician and nobody ever seems to make a video including these when they are needed for the systems health.
Question if having ignition on equalize the 2 batteries why can i just have a manual isolator switch that i turn off to connect the batteries once i started the car then i wont rely on the second battery as a starter or just spend the 150 dollers and buy a charger thats ment for it and forget about the worries of flat batteries
I did an even cheaper, easier setup in a Ford Econovan years ago. As the driver's seat was directly above the battery compartment I mounted an aux battery directly behind it in the rear of the van (to keep wiring short avoiding voltage drop). I connected them in parallel with thick gauge wire, grounding the negative of the aux battery to the chassis, and put a manual battery isolator switch on the positive wire connection with a fuse between the switch and the aux battery. The best part of the design was that I mounted the manual switch on top of the handbrake, so it just became habit to connect the batteries when taking off the handbrake after starting the van. I think it cost about 40 bucks for wiring, terminal lugs, a fuse and a switch.
All my questions where answered when you showed the wiring diagram. Thank you 👍
This is dope. My grandpas truck is only 2wd so I'm taking alot of influence from you over land guys to build a bad ass fishing, campsite camping and tailgating rig
i have been running a duel batt in my cj-7 for decades. but both of them are connected together for double the usable amps. so i have really unlimited juice for the starter, the winch, and a couple lights. for the winch i use welding cable. and it draws less then the starter motor (smaller wire there). but now in this age sounds like time to install a third batt just for "other" things. including the lights. but yes fuse every wire. coming off a power supply or fuse block, switch, etc.
yes cheap, easy analog is best.
Hey Mikey! I enjoyed the video and got a charge out of it, too. Pun intended. Cheers, Mate.
I love channels that share affordable not “cheap” options for us average folks out there. Thanks for all you guys do!
the best set up i have seen so far thank you
Hi , Instead of the relay why not get a VSR (voltage sensitive relay ) They are $40 on FleeBay when the start battery drops below 12.7vdc it isolates the AUX battery then after you have started your truck the battery VDC will rise to 13.8 and the AUX battery will start to charge , I feel this is the best way as there is no shock to the alternator charging 2 batteries at the same time ,I have been using this setup for 4 years , Works great
PS:I know the vid is over a year old but its worth a look ,
Rob
Nowra NSW AU
Thank you for this! Question: Would you consider adding a Renogy 40 amp DC to DC Charger to this system? Secondly, probably a stupid question, but now that you have this set up, did you install a panel inside or in the back of the truck where you can plug in your fridge, USB ports, etc?
Those 80 Amp fuses look like the kind made for speaker amplifiers and they will corrode on you more than likely I think you could stick with them if you buy a armored case and put then inside a box though to keep the water off of them like a factory fuse box is designed for example or else they just will get to looking really grungy overtime.
Great to see you!
Excellent idea
Thanks for making an awesome video. Actually, I followed up on your relay panel instruction video and built up a nice and reliable relay panel and fusebox in my Landcruiser 78 troopcarrier. Thank you. BTW, greetings from Mongolia.
very well done video, mic'd up so we can hear you, no annoying music, and straight to the point ! Thanks for the great info! Gonna work on mine soon, since it only takes me 10 minutes as well:)
So my current system is even cheaper. I have a battery in the back hooked up to the stuff it's hooked up to. When the battery starts dying I charge it with a charger off 120, I don't have a huge draw and can run for a couple days with what I use and how I use it. Have been toying with the idea of a solar trickle charger for 30 bucks and just letting it go like that.
Personally though, I would run different chemistries for the two because i’d prefer to run lithium iron phosphate for the AUX, for the massive available capacity, but it cannot be mounted under hood due to temperatures it sees. So a DC:DC charge controller in the boot with the lithium battery would be my choice.
Elegant, simple system. You really don't need any more. I've had a similar system in my 11 year old Troopy (VDJ78R) since new with a voltage sensitive relay (VSR) instead of an ignition switch activated one. The VSR has the small advantage of always ensuring that the cranking battery is fully charged before charging the house battery. I have an 80lt fridge, a handful of LED lights and the occasional USB powered device drawing from the house battery which is also augmented by a 200w solar panel. For all practical purposes there seems no need for a state of the art (expensive) battery management system that I can see. I love your videos.
Awesome and thank you! Ya - that is the next upgrade to this system for sure.
Yes - I was woried about the alternator output of some vehicles being overloaded by recharging both batteries simultaneously - the VSR elliminates this issue, and the risk that a very flat Aux battery will immediately start drawing from the cranking battery when the ignition is on (thus loading the cranking battery just when it's needed for an engine start). A VSR is ESSENTIAL, not just an optional item.
@@rogerbrown5563 youve convinced me two switch out my solenoid now! do you have a recommended product?
Not a good idea to have it linked to your ignition... because the batteries will equalise almost immediately when the ignition is switched...if you drain the house battery completely & turn the ignition on without starting immediately...you’ll be stuck. Other factors like a start battery on the way out, or a engine that doesn’t want to start immediately..will also magnify this situation.
In my system... I have a manual switch between ignition & solenoid. Which remains off until vehicle is running... then I switch it on. By doing it this way your guarantee your starting ability...
That's a good point - I have a new engine and a one turn start. I also have a jump starter - but well - that defeats the purpose. Wiring a manual switch to the solenoid is a good idea.
@@OverlandBound yeah...I found out the hard way.😂 I was stuck on the beach for 2.5 hours.
Good tip! I planned to wire a manual switch, but this makes it important to call out - added it to a pinned post. Thanks!
@@OverlandBound You effectively already have the "switch" since you used the power antenna lead. When you turn off the stereo, the power to the "antenna" (solenoid) is cut.
i assume this would also give you the ability to jump start your own vehicle? unless you have one of those handheld jump rechargeable units that can do it of course
Yes - I do pack a jump starter since they are so small, and convenient.
Trying to get my setup together now. So why even move to a complicated, and very expensive, "battery management system" if the analog version works perfectly fine and is easier to diagnose and repair? Does it do something else worth the price increase?
It's the charging profile. A "smart" battery management system allows you to have two different batteries and it will smartly charge them based on their requirements - making sure they don't overcharge, and charge them at the optimal rate. This extends the life of your batteries significantly. Since batteries can be $500 - you want them to last as long as you can. As long as you have the same type of battery on this less expensive setup - you will be OK.
so the solenoid is just connected to any 12v source that is only on while the car is running, correct?
Wow , excellent briefing on your know how cheap setup. this is probably more reliable than the systems trying to reinvent the wheel. I've seen many videos and have thought about the solenoid. Thank you, sir, for confirming. Question: it should work with a junction box/solar panel added on to the relay?
Just one amendment Michael: Place the first fuse closer to the starter battery. Really, I urge you. Lots of metal close to the 4 AWG wire. Imagine the radiator cracking the insulation in an head on accident ..
Secondly: get your alternator tested. Unless both batteries were fully charged, it should read 14.4V even when idling ..
Thanks! For charge rate - both batteries were nearly fully charged.
Where is the starter in the diagram? If the relay switches when the key is in, you have 2 batteries starting and 2 batteries for accessory. You need to switch on the accessory side on after the car is started to have a separate start battery
i guess the main benefit would be when the vehicle is off you can power things off the 2nd battery. But when you turn the key to start the engine the main battery will drop in voltage to fill the 2nd battery?
Why can't you just put a set of jump leads from the car battery to the leisure battery,and then when you use the leisure battery take of the live jump lead of the leisure battery
Two questions: 1) The added 100A switch/fuse is downstream of the house battery, yeah? All I'd like to do in my tundra is something similar but I'll house the house battery in the pick up topper, then from there, just a 12v outlet thingy or perhaps an inverter and that's it. 2) How often are you buying/replacing tires?
Hey there! Yes - downstream from house, before accessory fuse block. Tires - about every 50k
Thank you man, this is one of my next projects and this made it _a lot_ more straight forward, also the analog aspect of it is very appealing since swapping a fuse or relay is cheaper then replacing a charge controller
I guess prices gone up i just ordered all the parts and it didn’t come out to $75.00 bucks it came out to $134.35 video very helpful.Thank You
Where did you connect the ground of the house battery?
Thanks Michael. The information in the description box helps and that was a cool diagram.
Mo power baby
Do I need more wire gauge tubing for a 2000 amp Inverter? And also what
amp Auxillary Battery should I get? Thank you
Great job with presentation. Simple & to the point.👍🖖
awesome vid but i think that when you drain your house battery since batteries are hooked up parallel, then the voltage will equalize, leaving you unable to start your truck on that 9 volts or so. hope you didnt find this out the hard way
Would this work to keep a dvd player running in my car?
Great video! I have many questions. Does this setup run fine on a stock alternator? Could it do any damage to the alternator by pulling too much? Can the house battery be a deep cycle battery and would that be recommended since you might be running it down and recharging many times? Can the house battery be placed in the rear of the truck? Any issues with distance from the primary battery or alternator? Would you need bigger wires?
Hi Don. Thank s for watching!
1. Alternator: Sure - it should be in good shape. There is voltage drop to the second battery. You will benefit from an upgraded alternator. My setup runs and charges fine. It is a new OEM alternator. It also depends on the make of car - Land Cruisers are over-built.
2. If your alternator is already in bad shape, or you drive a Yugo, probably, especially if you have a lot of accessories that you run all day, with extended hours of operation. In MOST cases, you should be fine.
3. Deep Cycle - Yes. Your batteries should have the same charging profile - otherwise you will get different charge rates, shorter battery life, and perhaps other long-term issues. Mine are matching Northstar AGMs.
4. Rear of truck - I wouldn't recommend but you could. The farther away it is, the more voltage drop you have, and your alternator will be trying to charge both batteries, so, for me that means inefficient charging on both your house and start battery. If you go this route - do a lot of research on wire gauge and alternator requirements. If you upgraded this proposed simple system - perhaps with a battery manager - you definitely could.
5. Yes.
6. Yes.
Love it!!!
Any videos on the “accessories” wiring or terminal used?
I turned my 96 Dodge ram into a camper-truck... So I've been wanting to set up the dual battery system. But what extra would I have to add to it to be able to run a tv, and microwave?
May 21 2024 this costs $149.83.
super
This looks great and in budget. Almost everything else you watch has a $1000 set up. Thank you for this.
I guess if you keep something in long enough it's bound to run down sooner or later?
The whole purpose of this setup will be defeated the moment you turn on the ignition. If the aux battery is discharged, the moment you turn the ignition key, the two battery connect and the drained aux battery will drain all the charge from the main battery and you end up with two below par batteries.
See pinned post - you are correct.
Can this be solved by connecting the remote wire to a switch?
Use a timer with your solenoid swit h wire so the solenoid does not power up until after your engine is started.
Hey
Love your channel
I am thinking of doing similar
I am currently running idc25 to charge second battery using solar when off grid . I have a 110ah agm and would like to use same ah battery as my starter battery as it’s dual purpose
How can I use your system but still use solar charging
Thanks heaps
The Relay you have listed in the description does not look like the one that you installed? Is this an updated version that you prefer?
Thank you
Thank you so much!! Would it be best to use a deep cycle bat or agm??
thank you, I'm a poor boy and lucky to have my 2014 stock ram with little to no mechanical experience. looking into these I cant believe the prices been subscribed for a long time will try to scratch money together to join . THANKS AGAIN FOR LOOKING OUT FOR THE ONES WITH LESS KNOWLEDGE AND NO MONEY. From Michigan City, In.
i like this simple and cheap idea instead of a diode or mosfet isolator. So how does this work when the aux(deep cycle) battery is drained, then you turn the key switch on to start the vehicle. Soon as you turn the ignition on(before cranking the engine) will this be affecting the condition of the starting battery to get your engine cranked over?
How would you change the wiring to start with the house battery if the start battery fails?
Awesome explanation. With this set up be sure both batterys are the same lead acid type and size, which is a bonus as if your main battery dies in the bush you can swap in the second one. Hint new cars with smart alternators, you dont need a dc/dc charger for this setup, turn your head lights on so the alt runs at full charge, this makes sure your batterys are fully charged.
For those of you wanting to do this keep these things in mind.
1.) Make sure the battery chemistries are the same for both batteries. If you have an AGM battery make sure the AUX battery is also AGM
2.) There is no Battery Management (BMS) meaning your AUX battery will drain and likely be damaged if you are not manually keeping an eye on the voltage.
Nice video. useful info. All the power plugs in the vehicle run off the original battery. is it worth rewiring the outlets to run off the second isolated battery.
Nice job and NEW SUB HERE.
Can I use any kind of battery for the secondary? Like a lithium or a deep discharge kind? Thank you.
Hello Michael, Michael here...I was curious to how you came up with the 80 amp fuse. What accessories are you using? What is the draw for the fridge etc.? I know that you have a fuse panel and that each accessory will have its own fuse as per the draw. Just curious as to why 80?
Thank you.
can the house battery be overcharged with this setup?
Can you hear the isolator turn on when you turn on acc? Mine is quiet, I also took a multimeter to it and am getting the same reading when it's on as when it's off? Is there a certain way to read it? Thanks!
question... on the 4guage cables. Couldnt we just buy a 4 guage jumper cable and cut those and use them instead? reason being.... I can buy a 20 foot jumper cables for $20 and save a bunch lol
Might work!
Question
If I am wanting to just charge a dual auto battery not run any accessories how would I do that? Thank you
Quick question. You wired your relay to the ON position on the key? os as soon as you turn the key to ON (before start) the two battery are connected. Am I understanding correctly?
I am just about to install a dual battery 12v (90amp each )system without an isolator, in my case the fuse should be more than 80amp ? I am thinking of getting 120amp or 150 amp is it ok? Any help appreciated thank you
Wait, so once everything is hooked up and working right. How do you use your accessories? Do you use the regular car outlets, for example the DC outlet in the back of my SUV where the trunk is? or is there a separate outlet you use for the accessories that is attached to the house battery? Right now I can’t use the DC outlet in my trunk when the car is turned off for obvious safety reasons, like to not drain the car battery over night.
Can you clarify where/how to connect the relay to the ignition?
I like it. One concern is the rate of charge balancing when you have a full starter battery and dead AUX battery; it may exceed 80A and blow the fuse charging, but this can be remedied with a 0.2 Ohm 1000 watt resistor in series with the fuse. The 2nd fuse between the solenoid and the AUX isn’t doing anything. The AUX breaker should be closer to the AUX battery.
If my alternator puts out 200 amps and I have a 250 amp fuse before my battery why wouldn't the second battery need a 250 amp as well not 80 like you did.
Hi nice set up , how do you update to the redarc addc
I did basically the same thing on my FJC, I interrupted the negative cable with a continuous duty solenoid, power off the house battery to the solenoid, switch in the cab to the other connection on solenoid, and to ground. I found that the solenoid got hot if connected for a length of time, so I connect them only when aux battery is low and no sunshine for my solar panel to charge aux battery
Can you explain hooking up an inverter to this system after the auxiliary battery and a possible hookup for a 100w solar panel to it as well? This part makes sense to me. I'm very new to all of this. But I would like to see something for everything behind the auxiliary battery if you can please. I would like to have my auxiliary battery and inverter in the bed of my truck with my camper build
Where do you ground the negative for the auxiliary items? To battery one or two?
@Michael Thanks a lot for great solution. I am going to use your solution but will wire solenoid to switch so I have more control. Before I go ahead I see that you have put 80A fuses between the two battery connection, so my concern is what happens if I drain my starter battery all the way then try to start using auxiliary battery . Will the starter not draw lot more current than 80A if so what could be best solution to handle this.
As always, good and informative video.
😊👍
Can i charge a 2nd battery from my rear ciggy lighter port? it think it rated to like 15A and I'm only going to run a small battery until i do a proper setup. Just looking to do this for 1-2 trips.
Do both batteries have to be the same?
nise work thanks
With the isolator, if your starting battery was low or dead, would the aux battery be used to start the car?
So what happens if you connect 2 battery's in parallel one is 600 cold cranking amps and the second is 1000 cold cranking amps?
I knew you would eventually do this. 👍 Aside from the Red Arc system I used many of the same fuses and materials. One area of concern for me is my alternator though only being a 60amp. I'm not sure what the fj80 is rated at but any plans to upgrade to a higher amperage alternator to get the best charge out of the batteries?
Man - such a great upgrade. Yes - I will eventually upgrade the alternator. I'll also wire the relay separate from the ignition.
@@OverlandBound If you go with the Redarc, an alternator upgrade won't be required.
Hi bro I’m just wondering if how much the Ampere of the SOLINOID that you put it in.?
WAIT! you already linked it THANK YOU!!!!
With this setup, would you want to use a lithium phosphate battery or are they to finicky and have a chance to run them down . Also would charge when temps were to cold. Or is that controled in those batteries
Are the poles for the ground and the isolator ignition interchangeable? Does it matter which one I use?
One question about cable quality ! Work for you with out problem?
Why go with a Redarc DC to DC if this is all you need to charge a dual battery? Your set up seems to be a LA to a LA battery and not a LA to a LiFePo. Nothing in this set knows the house battery and its needs and flow rate.
I'm at that point to ensure my fridge is always on and inverter always charged. Also going with solar panels. Thanks
I like your battery terminals, but I didn't see those listed. What and where did you get them?
Good catch! I added them: amzn.to/3flLeB5
Where are the links?
Where did you get your battery terminal connections that are on the stock battery? Looked like a great way to easily connect things to it.
amzn.to/3flLeB5
@@OverlandBound Amazing thank you! Love all you do and you've inspired several DIY projects of my own. Keep it up!
Do you necessarily have to use the same exact battery as your second battery matching to your main battery? Meaning do they both have to be the same exact size. second question is it normal for the solenoid to get super hot hot to the point that you can’t touch it more than three seconds cause it burns you?
Didn’t explain the ground on the other battery
If I use a solid state isolator that's rated at 140 amps can I use a 140 amp circuit breaker instead?
With this set up, if you run your accessory battery down... when you turn the key on, your starter battery may not start your truck, as it will be charging the accessory battery.
Simple master switch fix
No I think that's what the solenoid is for
You do understand the starter battery is taken out circuit once truck is started
Somebody didn't watch the whole video...🙄
I would imagine you would have to upgrade your alternator as well for those times when you do drain your house battery even with a master switch???? Am I right?🤔☹️🧐