My honest review about this mod I just performed today: First of All i want to thank Daniel for the video very instructive very precise beautiful free and useful information. All you need is here and it should be followed EXACTLY to avoid losing time and adding frustration. My personal tips: Clear space lots of light and propper tools will help you out a lot. T150. I did it with 3 bearings and no washers or spacers and the clip. My wheel used to have a chirping sound when turning so i tightened the belt a bit extra than the original position that got rid of the chirping for me. Used a box cutter to trimm off a bit of the plastic edges around the wheel connector to the mainboard because it helps tremendously when trying to move the conector through the wheel shaft. Also I took a bit longer than Daniel because my tools were a bit old and not as good. No magnets. But was manageable. My impressions: At first i was like Eh Meh not really much has changed. The wheel sped up a bit while calibrating. Eh. Took few laps. Eh. Overall wasnt happy after all the trouble. But a few hours later I went for a real session and let me tell you while driving on the very limit things changed immensely. I only drive GT3 cars so im very used to them and Man the wheel turned out MUCH smoother its really more enjoyable to drive but I also found extra pace. Something changed on the motion while turning there is less noise less distraction (friction) coming through the wheel I find easier to put the car there in the apex in the kerb limits on the exit. It transitions smoother and faster in fast changing direction corners like chicanes. Conclusion: Game changer for my GT3 racing endeavours. Absolute must. Its necessary and I wish I knew this sooner. I feel like im meeting my wheel again and I like it much more than before. But worth mentioning aswell my wheel has been previously fully covered in elastic/spongy wrapping and then tightly stiched leather for real steering wheel that was another major game change for me on this wheel much more immersive and nice feel to it (goodbye plastic toy) recommend it a lot.
Did the mod today and it improved the t150 a lot. So much difference to me. Used the 3x8x4mm only 2 in each side and used the spacers and the rings the plastic used but with the ball bearings. Also brought the t3pm pedals to swap the 2 pedals of the t150. So i have like a new setup now. Hated those small clips things on the bearings. There is less noise, smoother, less friction, faster wheel, it's awesome. Thanks for the video very useful.
Great Video, but I got a tip that makes that WAY EASIER! First of all, thanks, i followed your video (I have a T150), and it worked like a charm. BUT You REALLY DON'T HAVE TO TAKE IT APART THAT FAR! Getting to top lid of is indeed enough! On the front panel (next to the mode / Selector button on the bottom right side) there is a little service hole (covered with a little rubber plug) which let's you access the belt tensioning screw! You can do all the modding there with only the top part dismounted, as via the service hole you can loosen / tighten the tensioning screw without getting the front panel (and wheel and so on...) off. Saves TONS of time and fiddling!
I noticed that after the fact and I still think it needs to be taken apart. I know I would find it impossible getting those tiny rollers and washers with the front plate still on.
@@FalconsTech I mean yeah, it's still very fiddly, but taking the wheel off / back on (without getting the plug stuck in the steering column) plus remounting the front plate took me by far the longest, so maybe my solution comes easier to some people. And yes, I also found that service hole AFTER I did it your way...). At least readjusting / tensioning the belt alone gets way easier that way.
Its impossible to remove the lower plastic roller without removing the front cover, the space its too narrow to remove from the metal pin. Doesnt come out. I got it open in front of me rn and i cant take it off.
Did this mod yesterday, it does feel much better, less "clunky", I think it's worth the upgrade even tough its at least 30mins job + 10$ bearings Used 3 bearings per pin, without washes and I was still able to put the clip/lock. This is the best explanation video.
Just did this mod, and I HIGHLY recommend disassembling as outlined in the video. I was able to get the tensioner released and the top white nylon roller removed without full disassembly, BUT I could not get the lower roller off. I pried on the front plastic cover to make room and was able to get it off. I got 3 bearings on each without any issues BUT AGAIN, I and had a crazy difficult time getting the clip securely on the lower shaft. I'm stubborn and tried for over an hour to get it on. Visibility is an issue with the lower shaft, so I finally finished disassembly as shown in the video and it was super easy to get the clip securely on there. Would have saved me an hour if I just followed the clear instructions in the video. Save yourself time & frustration - follow the video. Great Video & thank you for clear instructions.
I've done this now and it's much better in Assetto Corsa for those Road Cars etc which love to spin, you can feel and correct those spins that seemed to happen for no reason much for often now. They still happen as I suck at the game, but I can get through 5 laps at similar times pushing it in shitty supercars which lack downforce now much more easily than before I did the mod. So if you're good it will probably make an even more noticeable difference.
Thank you for video, done mod yesterday. Overall it;'s really worth imho to perform this mod on your t150/tmx. I have used 3 bearings without washers on the rods. Wheel gets like more momentum and rotates faster getting also lot of smoothness.
I had the same result without changing the plastic rollers and it's not as loud too. I tried this because I couldn't find the ball bearings in the middle east. all I did was add some grease on the gears and properly tension the belt. it's pretty much quieter and faster. I can probably post clips of the wheel cycling for proof
@@YouBetterBelieve you loosen the belt just enough to not let it slip. And you'll have night and day difference in rotational speed. But I ended up replacing the motor anyways.
@@Neb0el I'll try loosening the belt then. Although I just bought my wheel two days ago, so I'm little bit anxious to disassemble it. But I'm gonna do this anyway. :) Have a happy New Year!
@@2KSYT Nice! good luck it's a great mod. from what I recall getting it back together was a little annoying. I don't remember exactly but I think u gotta just bend/stretch it on, or hold it in a really uncomfortable way. sorry its been years since i did it.
I just replaced the bearing. The outer diameter of the 3x8x4 bearing was small, so it was not possible to properly tighten the ribbed belt. Therefore, I used 2+2 pieces of 3x9x5 mm (603 ZZ) bearings. 3 screws left during assembly. :( I had to watch the video again to find where it was left off! :) Thank you for the video!
YOU DON'T HAVE TO OPEN IT COMPLETELY! Just found a rubber cap that pops out next to the buttons on the base! The screw for the tensioner is directly behind it!
It's very difficult to work in there by doing that imo. Not to mention if any of the small, sticky bits you're working with fall you'll need to take more off anyway.
Thanks Daniel, I bought a T150 a couple of weeks ago as an upgrade to my old Logitech Driving Force Pro. It had the dead power supply fault but otherwise looked brand new. I did the laptop power supply mod to get it working with a 3amp inline fuse and it powered up. To say I was disappointed is an understatement, I was shocked at how notchy and tight it felt compared to the Logitech. When I played Assetto Corsa the T150 just felt dead, yes there was ffb but nothing else, I messed around for hours with it last night and eventually got some tyre slip and kerb effects but nowhere near the same feeling as the Logitech. I was wondering if the tooth belt might be too tight to produce that feeling but don't really know. I was hoping to eventually upgrade to a T300 but now I might go with a Logitech G27 instead. Using my Driving Force Pro it feels alive, bucking and snapping and fighting you and I can set it up very precisely with not much effort. Yes there is the often mentioned gear noise and a tiny bit of backlash but it is so immersive that you soon forget about that. I'll try your bearing mod and see how it feels otherwise it might be back on eBay!
Make sure to upgrade the firmware, also open settings and disable auto centering, 100% ffb, 100% constant & periodic, 0% on the other two, and adjust in-game until its good. After that I found it better than the G27 in every way, its got every bit of the fighting, bucking and snapping, with almost none of the noise or heat generating (because of cooling fan inside the wheel).
the thing that made your wheel feel alive is probably the constant clipping and the gears rattling about.. I'm not sure if you've driven an actual car but it's not anywhere close to that janky
@@phrg8332 Didn't know about LUT generators, had to google that, I'll be taking care of that next, thx for the advice! I'll agree the "actual" BMW's just have a dead heavy steering, those things are more "give it some opposite lock and hope you don't overshoot" but the G27 got pretty close to the feeling of an RWD Toyota, though I suspect that's more because the Toyota's actually have adjustable caster. "gears rattling about" I get that with the T150 and G27 equally, on conservative settings too, and is always gonna be part of the sacrifice us budget people make until DD wheels cost 150 shipped (or 90 in my case).
@@ToreDL87 your t150 rattles? I mean yes it is gear driven but mine doesn't make a noise (like Logitech wheels do) and yeah sadly there will always be big sacrifices made for us, you can sort of remedy some of these with some mods though, I'm putting a new motor and bearings instead of plastic rollers in my t150, should feel alot better
Please pin this. Yes it is possible to do this by only removing the top cover. However, it is probably the most difficult way to do it. A lot of fine motor skills are needed. If you work with electronics, you can do it. The tensioner screw needs to be completely removed in order to do it with only the top cover removed.
im doing it without disassembly right now. Its a bit fiddly but im using tweezers and an o-ring pick. im not adjusting the tensioners so we will see how it goes, the belt isn't under that much tension so there is not much need to undo them. im halfway done. edit if you don't own an o-ring pick, get one. It is honestly one of my most used tools and also ask most mechanics. o ring picks are dope. i have a whole set but i use the 90 degree one the most. i keep one in my desk. get it at harbor freight for like 2 dollars
It looks like if you had a good hook and pic set and patience one might be able to get the belt free with only the top cover removed. This would be someone like maybe a mechanic that performs work like this daily. Again, great video
Awesome video. But your misinformed on the size. The bearings requirement is 9mm outside diameter NOT 8mm. So that 2mm overall loss of diameter will affect the tension. I may be wrong as well but 9mm is the diameter of the plastic rollers from the schematic drawings from thrustmaster. I'll find the link and post. But also It's NOT necessary to take it all apart. Just popping the top off is plenty of room. ON THE T300. I'm not sure about the T150.
Thanks for the info. I just grabbed whatever size people were recommending online. Diameter is measured completely across, so it would only be a 1mm difference. In my opinion that's not a big deal since it's on a tensioner. Just gotta adjust accordingly.
Awesome video. Really appreciate the walk through. I gotta ask though, I was confused about this mod. I thought the hearse would come off and bearings added. I never realized it was something this simple as modding the belt rollers
I opened the steering wheel to clean it and lubricate the bushings and after assembling the steering wheel during the initial calibration after connecting to the PS4, it still rotates and cannot find the center point. what's wrong?
How did you remove the cable that connects the pin for the wheel wiring at 4:10? I've tried holding different positions and pressing points on the connector keeping the wires in but all it has been doing is seriously hurting my fingers without coming out.
Just wiggle it back and forth like you would with any other wiring harness. Never pull on the wires. I don't remember if there's a tab on the underside, so check for that too.
@SirFalconer Yup that worked! Thanks for the advice and this video especially! I was paranoid of bending the pins to get it out (so I kept pulling straight on it and pressing every side of the tab) but the wheel still works fine after I plugged it back in. It is tricky to get the front cover off too to access the gearshaft since I got a very unfortunate screw from the belt tensioner plate stuck in there. I was able to do the metal rollers just fine, though, but I was still tricky as well to put on if I didn't take off the cover. I also haven't worked on much electronics and DIY until I got a second-hand T150 and T-LCMs (no warranty anyways, and I have a pre-built PC), so I'm learning as I go. Hopefully one day I can afford a T300 servo base + Wheel to mod like this without damaging it.
That's the wheel sensitivity in some games like forza horizon 5 u can adjust it in order ganes like asetto you can not its not the wheel it's assertively input lag
Hey need some help. Just spent the entire day trying to do this and its really noisy. Tried reorganizing everything around the bearings in every way possible and nothing seemed to fix it. Have the 3 bearings in now tried two with the washers and same thing. Any ideas? I might try gluing some togetger Edit: The bearings were cheap and crunchy. Had to clean and apply new grease. Went back to using two with washers. There is some faint noise from the washers spinning with the bearings from time to time but they eventually stop. They're loose on the pegs, will try sanding or glueing them or something if it gets worse. I'm a bit sensitive to noise.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I have a backlash, about 2-3 degrees, and it doesn’t matter if the steering wheel is on or not. A small void in the design, if you turn a little to the left or right, then the steering wheel turns a few millimeters, and then the gear teeth begin to work. If you have such a problem? If it was, how to fix it? P.S. google translator🙂
hello friend, I made the mod, it was very good, but unfortunately after a while, I had a power problem at home and a component of the motherboard burned, I've looked everywhere for a picture of the board to read the code that is written in the ci, I couldn't... can you get a picture of the board please?
Have this annoying thing with my T150 where the wheel wont stay at top dead center. Feels like a notch or hump when trying to keep the wheel perfectly center. IS it the plastic rollers possibly not round anymore? Or is it the motor coil trying to get past a magnet? Maybe embedded debris in the belt?
@@FalconsTech Have not opened it, it is centered after calibration. Its most noticeable at high speed straights where its almost impossible to keep the input from weaving. I guess I gotta open it and see whats up. Disconnecting the motor will disable the wheel maybe?
Good morning, very good video, if instead of putting some 3x9x4 bearings I put some 3x10x4 ones, something would happen to it, I can't find the ones you recommend
I have the same issue and from the video looks like Daniel does as well. There is about 3mm of play between the two gears. It drives me nuts but I am yet to find a good solution for it...
Just wondering if u can remove the actual rim by the six screws like the t300 if so I would like to know because I am willing on purchasing one for f122 so if u could try and if it is possible can u give us a tutorial thanks
Well, i dont know if its normal or not, but i literally feel the "gears" in the steering wheel when im turning, mostly when i sligtly and slowly try to turn. It feels pretty bad, because when i gad a G29 it was so smooth, but this T150... And i cant even find a potentiometer so i have only one pedal :D
I did everything and it works well other than the fact that it is skipping gears when under tension, I assume I have to increase the tension on the belt right? Hopefully it isn’t worse than that
The shown bearing wheels doesn't fit. I can't get it on the pen. 3 mm is very tight for the pen. Did your heat up the bearing wheels? You put the bearing wheels so easy on the pen.
@@FalconsTech Thrustmaster pen is 3mm but bearing wheels are 2.9mm. WTF. I bought the same wheels like you. 40 wheels and no one fits. Luckily it doesn't cost anything. I think I will heat them up.
Did you do any drifting with it? Im thinking of doing this instead of getting a t300 for 500cad lol. If it rotates as fast as a g29 Im doing it. Any people who drift with this mod? (in AC)
@@jost6953 i spent the cash and it got better but my crunch comes from inside the middle part and ended up just buying an used g29 You could try and lubricate the plastic rollers with a bearing lube that’s slightly more viscous, so it lasts a bit longer without sound.
looked around some forums and some people are saying using 9mm outer diameter bearings is better cause you'll have less slack in the belt.. this is bs right?
I've not heard that before. Pretty sure the size bearings I used are a like for like replacement for the plastic rollers. If someone feels like they need a larger outer diameter, they're probably not moving the tensioner enough.
@@FalconsTech alright thank you, ive also seen you can easily upgrade the motor, all youll need is a 12v 775 motor and solder the pcb thats on the back of the original motor on, could you maybe make a video of doing this? theres no real documentation of this on the internet, just a few forum threads and one youtube video so..
3mm x 8mm x 4mm ball bearings or 3mm x 9mm x 4mm ball bearings? I have heard that 9mm is the actual original diameter of the plastic roller so why replace with 8mm?
Do NOT follow the T300's dimensions of a Pinon found on a similar video that are 5mm by 11mm, they are too large for the belt and motor pin on this T150/TMX
I was stuck with the same choice and ended up going for the T150, it has better and smoother ffb, of the overall build quality can't really compete with the G29. Though I personally still prefer the internals of the T150
It's worth doing if you are considering an upgrade, I've just done it and it's increased my previously VERY AVERAGE Lap times to average and more consistent in Assetto Corsa. I can actually drive that Piece of Shit McLaren Road Car without it CONSTANTLY Spinning
Hi Daniel There are reports of some people talking about overheating issues with the T150. Do you think that the reduced friction might help to minimize the risk of overheating?
@@Rodri-86 it probably wouldn’t solve the heat issue because the reduction in friction is not on the motor itself, so maybe it would extend the play time by 10% at most
Where would you buy a bearing like that???? 😳😳😳😳 this is a badass video I love my tmx but if this helps, I’m doing it. I’m about to switch to aftermarket NRG sim wheel so it might as well be fresh 100% 🤩
My honest review about this mod I just performed today:
First of All i want to thank Daniel for the video very instructive very precise beautiful free and useful information. All you need is here and it should be followed EXACTLY to avoid losing time and adding frustration. My personal tips: Clear space lots of light and propper tools will help you out a lot.
T150. I did it with 3 bearings and no washers or spacers and the clip. My wheel used to have a chirping sound when turning so i tightened the belt a bit extra than the original position that got rid of the chirping for me. Used a box cutter to trimm off a bit of the plastic edges around the wheel connector to the mainboard because it helps tremendously when trying to move the conector through the wheel shaft. Also I took a bit longer than Daniel because my tools were a bit old and not as good. No magnets. But was manageable.
My impressions: At first i was like Eh Meh not really much has changed. The wheel sped up a bit while calibrating. Eh. Took few laps. Eh. Overall wasnt happy after all the trouble.
But a few hours later I went for a real session and let me tell you while driving on the very limit things changed immensely. I only drive GT3 cars so im very used to them and Man the wheel turned out MUCH smoother its really more enjoyable to drive but I also found extra pace. Something changed on the motion while turning there is less noise less distraction (friction) coming through the wheel I find easier to put the car there in the apex in the kerb limits on the exit. It transitions smoother and faster in fast changing direction corners like chicanes.
Conclusion: Game changer for my GT3 racing endeavours. Absolute must. Its necessary and I wish I knew this sooner. I feel like im meeting my wheel again and I like it much more than before. But worth mentioning aswell my wheel has been previously fully covered in elastic/spongy wrapping and then tightly stiched leather for real steering wheel that was another major game change for me on this wheel much more immersive and nice feel to it (goodbye plastic toy) recommend it a lot.
Did the mod today and it improved the t150 a lot. So much difference to me. Used the 3x8x4mm only 2 in each side and used the spacers and the rings the plastic used but with the ball bearings. Also brought the t3pm pedals to swap the 2 pedals of the t150. So i have like a new setup now. Hated those small clips things on the bearings. There is less noise, smoother, less friction, faster wheel, it's awesome. Thanks for the video very useful.
Glad I could help!
3x 3x8x3mm it's better...
@@xa5gamesis it?
Great Video, but I got a tip that makes that WAY EASIER!
First of all, thanks, i followed your video (I have a T150), and it worked like a charm.
BUT
You REALLY DON'T HAVE TO TAKE IT APART THAT FAR!
Getting to top lid of is indeed enough!
On the front panel (next to the mode / Selector button on the bottom right side) there is a little service hole (covered with a little rubber plug) which let's you access the belt tensioning screw! You can do all the modding there with only the top part dismounted, as via the service hole you can loosen / tighten the tensioning screw without getting the front panel (and wheel and so on...) off.
Saves TONS of time and fiddling!
I noticed that after the fact and I still think it needs to be taken apart. I know I would find it impossible getting those tiny rollers and washers with the front plate still on.
@@FalconsTech I mean yeah, it's still very fiddly, but taking the wheel off / back on (without getting the plug stuck in the steering column) plus remounting the front plate took me by far the longest, so maybe my solution comes easier to some people. And yes, I also found that service hole AFTER I did it your way...).
At least readjusting / tensioning the belt alone gets way easier that way.
Its impossible to remove the lower plastic roller without removing the front cover, the space its too narrow to remove from the metal pin. Doesnt come out. I got it open in front of me rn and i cant take it off.
Did this mod yesterday, it does feel much better, less "clunky", I think it's worth the upgrade even tough its at least 30mins job + 10$ bearings
Used 3 bearings per pin, without washes and I was still able to put the clip/lock. This is the best explanation video.
What bearings did you buys
Just did this mod, and I HIGHLY recommend disassembling as outlined in the video. I was able to get the tensioner released and the top white nylon roller removed without full disassembly, BUT I could not get the lower roller off. I pried on the front plastic cover to make room and was able to get it off. I got 3 bearings on each without any issues BUT AGAIN, I and had a crazy difficult time getting the clip securely on the lower shaft. I'm stubborn and tried for over an hour to get it on. Visibility is an issue with the lower shaft, so I finally finished disassembly as shown in the video and it was super easy to get the clip securely on there. Would have saved me an hour if I just followed the clear instructions in the video. Save yourself time & frustration - follow the video. Great Video & thank you for clear instructions.
Great work Daniel! The TMX community needed this video
Thanks duder! Yeah, hope it helps someone. I tried to make the video I wish I had before attempting this lol.
@@FalconsTechman why u stoped making videos
I've done this now and it's much better in Assetto Corsa for those Road Cars etc which love to spin, you can feel and correct those spins that seemed to happen for no reason much for often now. They still happen as I suck at the game, but I can get through 5 laps at similar times pushing it in shitty supercars which lack downforce now much more easily than before I did the mod. So if you're good it will probably make an even more noticeable difference.
Thank you for video, done mod yesterday. Overall it;'s really worth imho to perform this mod on your t150/tmx.
I have used 3 bearings without washers on the rods.
Wheel gets like more momentum and rotates faster getting also lot of smoothness.
I did 2 bearings do you think adding a 3rd one will make a difference?
@@skithe9096 3x 3x8x3mm it's better...
I had the same result without changing the plastic rollers and it's not as loud too. I tried this because I couldn't find the ball bearings in the middle east. all I did was add some grease on the gears and properly tension the belt. it's pretty much quieter and faster. I can probably post clips of the wheel cycling for proof
Did you tightened the belt or did you loosen it?
@@YouBetterBelieve you loosen the belt just enough to not let it slip. And you'll have night and day difference in rotational speed. But I ended up replacing the motor anyways.
@@YouBetterBelieve my T150 now performs like a t300 after motor upgrade.
@@Neb0el I'll try loosening the belt then. Although I just bought my wheel two days ago, so I'm little bit anxious to disassemble it. But I'm gonna do this anyway. :) Have a happy New Year!
@@YouBetterBelieve oh you don't need to disassemble it
I just want to add that I've done this mod and it is really incredible. Makes the wheel 80% as good as a t300.
What are the advantages and downsides?
@@2KSYT transforms the wheel. You get more power, way more ffb detail. And way more speed. Only downside is the bearings are louder
@@tadman3d I’m doing it currently I’m doing reassambly, any tips on re applying the front cover
@@2KSYT Nice! good luck it's a great mod. from what I recall getting it back together was a little annoying. I don't remember exactly but I think u gotta just bend/stretch it on, or hold it in a really uncomfortable way. sorry its been years since i did it.
@@tadman3d just finished, all went well but under tension it skips gears, does it mean I have to tighten screws more?
6 months later and it's holding up great. Put a 310mm wheel on and it still feels better than stock
how did you do that?
I just replaced the bearing. The outer diameter of the 3x8x4 bearing was small, so it was not possible to properly tighten the ribbed belt. Therefore, I used 2+2 pieces of 3x9x5 mm (603 ZZ) bearings. 3 screws left during assembly. :( I had to watch the video again to find where it was left off! :) Thank you for the video!
This is the video I was looking for, great work Daniel! Greetings from Spain!!!
Glad to know it was helpful!
YOU DON'T HAVE TO OPEN IT COMPLETELY! Just found a rubber cap that pops out next to the buttons on the base! The screw for the tensioner is directly behind it!
It's very difficult to work in there by doing that imo. Not to mention if any of the small, sticky bits you're working with fall you'll need to take more off anyway.
Thanks Daniel, I bought a T150 a couple of weeks ago as an upgrade to my old Logitech Driving Force Pro. It had the dead power supply fault but otherwise looked brand new. I did the laptop power supply mod to get it working with a 3amp inline fuse and it powered up. To say I was disappointed is an understatement, I was shocked at how notchy and tight it felt compared to the Logitech. When I played Assetto Corsa the T150 just felt dead, yes there was ffb but nothing else, I messed around for hours with it last night and eventually got some tyre slip and kerb effects but nowhere near the same feeling as the Logitech. I was wondering if the tooth belt might be too tight to produce that feeling but don't really know.
I was hoping to eventually upgrade to a T300 but now I might go with a Logitech G27 instead. Using my Driving Force Pro it feels alive, bucking and snapping and fighting you and I can set it up very precisely with not much effort. Yes there is the often mentioned gear noise and a tiny bit of backlash but it is so immersive that you soon forget about that.
I'll try your bearing mod and see how it feels otherwise it might be back on eBay!
Make sure to upgrade the firmware, also open settings and disable auto centering, 100% ffb, 100% constant & periodic, 0% on the other two, and adjust in-game until its good.
After that I found it better than the G27 in every way, its got every bit of the fighting, bucking and snapping, with almost none of the noise or heat generating (because of cooling fan inside the wheel).
the thing that made your wheel feel alive is probably the constant clipping and the gears rattling about.. I'm not sure if you've driven an actual car but it's not anywhere close to that janky
@@ToreDL87 I'd recommend a custom lut and 90% gain so you won't get any clipping actually.
@@phrg8332 Didn't know about LUT generators, had to google that, I'll be taking care of that next, thx for the advice!
I'll agree the "actual" BMW's just have a dead heavy steering, those things are more "give it some opposite lock and hope you don't overshoot" but the G27 got pretty close to the feeling of an RWD Toyota, though I suspect that's more because the Toyota's actually have adjustable caster.
"gears rattling about" I get that with the T150 and G27 equally, on conservative settings too, and is always gonna be part of the sacrifice us budget people make until DD wheels cost 150 shipped (or 90 in my case).
@@ToreDL87 your t150 rattles? I mean yes it is gear driven but mine doesn't make a noise (like Logitech wheels do) and yeah sadly there will always be big sacrifices made for us, you can sort of remedy some of these with some mods though, I'm putting a new motor and bearings instead of plastic rollers in my t150, should feel alot better
Please pin this. Yes it is possible to do this by only removing the top cover. However, it is probably the most difficult way to do it. A lot of fine motor skills are needed. If you work with electronics, you can do it. The tensioner screw needs to be completely removed in order to do it with only the top cover removed.
im doing it without disassembly right now. Its a bit fiddly but im using tweezers and an o-ring pick. im not adjusting the tensioners so we will see how it goes, the belt isn't under that much tension so there is not much need to undo them. im halfway done.
edit if you don't own an o-ring pick, get one. It is honestly one of my most used tools and also ask most mechanics. o ring picks are dope. i have a whole set but i use the 90 degree one the most. i keep one in my desk. get it at harbor freight for like 2 dollars
Good tip, thanks.
What kinda magic that's why I'm not a mechanic
It looks like if you had a good hook and pic set and patience one might be able to get the belt free with only the top cover removed. This would be someone like maybe a mechanic that performs work like this daily. Again, great video
you don't need to take off the rim, just take the top and bottom off and it should give you enough space.
how? i cant remove the bottom roller
Awesome video. But your misinformed on the size. The bearings requirement is 9mm outside diameter NOT 8mm. So that 2mm overall loss of diameter will affect the tension. I may be wrong as well but 9mm is the diameter of the plastic rollers from the schematic drawings from thrustmaster. I'll find the link and post. But also It's NOT necessary to take it all apart. Just popping the top off is plenty of room.
ON THE T300. I'm not sure about the T150.
Thanks for the info. I just grabbed whatever size people were recommending online. Diameter is measured completely across, so it would only be a 1mm difference. In my opinion that's not a big deal since it's on a tensioner. Just gotta adjust accordingly.
Awesome video. Really appreciate the walk through. I gotta ask though, I was confused about this mod. I thought the hearse would come off and bearings added. I never realized it was something this simple as modding the belt rollers
I opened the steering wheel to clean it and lubricate the bushings and after assembling the steering wheel during the initial calibration after connecting to the PS4, it still rotates and cannot find the center point. what's wrong?
where can I buy such rollers? My steering wheel shakes and jams during sudden movements. Could the rollers be the cause of this?
How did you remove the cable that connects the pin for the wheel wiring at 4:10? I've tried holding different positions and pressing points on the connector keeping the wires in but all it has been doing is seriously hurting my fingers without coming out.
Just wiggle it back and forth like you would with any other wiring harness. Never pull on the wires. I don't remember if there's a tab on the underside, so check for that too.
@SirFalconer Yup that worked! Thanks for the advice and this video especially!
I was paranoid of bending the pins to get it out (so I kept pulling straight on it and pressing every side of the tab) but the wheel still works fine after I plugged it back in. It is tricky to get the front cover off too to access the gearshaft since I got a very unfortunate screw from the belt tensioner plate stuck in there. I was able to do the metal rollers just fine, though, but I was still tricky as well to put on if I didn't take off the cover.
I also haven't worked on much electronics and DIY until I got a second-hand T150 and T-LCMs (no warranty anyways, and I have a pre-built PC), so I'm learning as I go. Hopefully one day I can afford a T300 servo base + Wheel to mod like this without damaging it.
Yeah i need to do this upgrade. My reactions to what is happening on screen are sometimes faster than the wheel lmao
That's the wheel sensitivity in some games like forza horizon 5 u can adjust it in order ganes like asetto you can not its not the wheel it's assertively input lag
@@forzafan6924 no need to worry, i got a fanatec now!
Hey need some help. Just spent the entire day trying to do this and its really noisy. Tried reorganizing everything around the bearings in every way possible and nothing seemed to fix it. Have the 3 bearings in now tried two with the washers and same thing. Any ideas? I might try gluing some togetger
Edit: The bearings were cheap and crunchy. Had to clean and apply new grease. Went back to using two with washers. There is some faint noise from the washers spinning with the bearings from time to time but they eventually stop. They're loose on the pegs, will try sanding or glueing them or something if it gets worse. I'm a bit sensitive to noise.
Hello. Thank you for the video. I have a backlash, about 2-3 degrees, and it doesn’t matter if the steering wheel is on or not. A small void in the design, if you turn a little to the left or right, then the steering wheel turns a few millimeters, and then the gear teeth begin to work. If you have such a problem? If it was, how to fix it?
P.S. google translator🙂
It's freeplay between gear teeths, not repairable. Flaw of the steering wheel design.
hello friend, I made the mod, it was very good, but unfortunately after a while, I had a power problem at home and a component of the motherboard burned, I've looked everywhere for a picture of the board to read the code that is written in the ci, I couldn't... can you get a picture of the board please?
Can confirm, I’m screwing my wheel back together as I type this and I was able to fit 3 washers and still put the clip back
Done this mod 2 hours ago and damn! Def a great thing to do!
But noticed that it spins easier to the right than the left, it needs more tighten right?
I just did it and I made it tighter that it was originally, it seems even to me
Bearings just came in. Got a tmx for $90 modding off the bat
tell me the order you put it in
3 washers.....then? Thanks😊
I have the tmx pro, all buttons seems to work but steering doesn't take effect in game, could it be the belt? Help
Hi, I have removed all the screws that you mention in the video but the top cover does not come off and I am afraid to force it, any ideas?
where can i get new belt?
Have this annoying thing with my T150 where the wheel wont stay at top dead center. Feels like a notch or hump when trying to keep the wheel perfectly center. IS it the plastic rollers possibly not round anymore? Or is it the motor coil trying to get past a magnet? Maybe embedded debris in the belt?
Did you open it? If it's not centered after calibration it sounds like the shaft that the rim sits on wasn't centered from the factory.
@@FalconsTech Have not opened it, it is centered after calibration. Its most noticeable at high speed straights where its almost impossible to keep the input from weaving. I guess I gotta open it and see whats up. Disconnecting the motor will disable the wheel maybe?
Looks faster too!
the speed is one of the biggest improvements. those plastic rollers really slowed the thing down
Good morning, very good video, if instead of putting some 3x9x4 bearings I put some 3x10x4 ones, something would happen to it, I can't find the ones you recommend
Does your wheel has a bit of a play when slightly turniny from right to left?
Nope. Gears feel the same.
that's the little bit of play between each gear of the wheel
I have the same issue and from the video looks like Daniel does as well. There is about 3mm of play between the two gears. It drives me nuts but I am yet to find a good solution for it...
Hello. Have you found a solution to eliminate backlash?
@@senyajo it cant be fixed. it is caused by the play between gear teeth
What size is the clips cuz i lost mine
Just wondering if u can remove the actual rim by the six screws like the t300 if so I would like to know because I am willing on purchasing one for f122 so if u could try and if it is possible can u give us a tutorial thanks
No, the rim is not meant to be removed. If you want a different rim it needs to be modded.
what bearings did you use and where did you get them
So I could technically use my T150 as is until the plastic rollers break and then replace it with your metal bearings.
Wtf? No. Then the motor wouldn't be connected to the shaft. This replaces the plastic rollers for the belt with bearings. I never touch the gears.
@@FalconsTech Lol my bad, corrected the text afterwards
I don't see any reason why the plastic rollers would ever break.
@@FalconsTech the top plastic bearing wore out on mine. I’ve had it for like 3 years🤷
Well, i dont know if its normal or not, but i literally feel the "gears" in the steering wheel when im turning, mostly when i sligtly and slowly try to turn. It feels pretty bad, because when i gad a G29 it was so smooth, but this T150... And i cant even find a potentiometer so i have only one pedal :D
Order potentiometers on their site
They dont have any available @@Ejsavanije
There is a squeaking sound from the steering wheel. Does this mod prevent squeaking?
That's incredibly vague. No idea. You'd have to open it up to see where the squeaking is coming from.
I just installed the mod and the squeaking sound is even noisier lol. But it does feel a bit better so I guess that's fine
I did everything and it works well other than the fact that it is skipping gears when under tension, I assume I have to increase the tension on the belt right? Hopefully it isn’t worse than that
Possibly
Did that tension increasing worked for you?
@@YouBetterBelievesorry for the late reply, yes, that fixed it. It’s working fine to this day
my wheel refuses to come off i did all the steps and it wont budge im bout to start crying help plz
hey dude nice video, can you put a link of the product, the one in the description isn't working anymore ?
The shown bearing wheels doesn't fit. I can't get it on the pen. 3 mm is very tight for the pen. Did your heat up the bearing wheels? You put the bearing wheels so easy on the pen.
Nope. You were either sent the wrong size (measure to confirm) or Thrustmaster varries the part.
@@FalconsTech Thrustmaster pen is 3mm but bearing wheels are 2.9mm. WTF.
I bought the same wheels like you. 40 wheels and no one fits. Luckily it doesn't cost anything.
I think I will heat them up.
@@Imaxe did it work? how did you heat them up
@@Valkxe hi, No i bought a new one. If you Heat Up The bearing wheels you damage them.
Did you do any drifting with it? Im thinking of doing this instead of getting a t300 for 500cad lol. If it rotates as fast as a g29 Im doing it. Any people who drift with this mod? (in AC)
Better get t300/500, but drift in this wheel in ac real, i use 75% power ffb, for wdts carpack is enough, but need practice.
If u want, i can record a video of drifting in this wheel
My wheel sounds very very crunchy to the left, is this mod a possible fix? Or could be something deeper
Mine too lmfao just bought it used
Find a way to fix it?
@@jost6953 i spent the cash and it got better but my crunch comes from inside the middle part and ended up just buying an used g29
You could try and lubricate the plastic rollers with a bearing lube that’s slightly more viscous, so it lasts a bit longer without sound.
looked around some forums and some people are saying using 9mm outer diameter bearings is better cause you'll have less slack in the belt.. this is bs right?
I've not heard that before. Pretty sure the size bearings I used are a like for like replacement for the plastic rollers. If someone feels like they need a larger outer diameter, they're probably not moving the tensioner enough.
@@FalconsTech alright thank you, ive also seen you can easily upgrade the motor, all youll need is a 12v 775 motor and solder the pcb thats on the back of the original motor on, could you maybe make a video of doing this? theres no real documentation of this on the internet, just a few forum threads and one youtube video so..
3mm x 8mm x 4mm ball bearings or 3mm x 9mm x 4mm ball bearings? I have heard that 9mm is the actual original diameter of the plastic roller so why replace with 8mm?
No idea. I don't have a caliper to check. Won't make that much of a difference anyway. Just means you'll have to adjust the tensioner accordingly.
@@FalconsTech Thanks!
3x 3x8x3mm it's better...
can you just take out the bearings instead of replaycing them?
Lol no
Is better feeling when you change this rolls?
Did you watch the video? Lol
What about a metal motor pinion???
Do NOT follow the T300's dimensions of a Pinon found on a similar video that are 5mm by 11mm, they are too large for the belt and motor pin on this T150/TMX
@@BluFrost8888 how about 3mm10mm4mm? is it still good?
for tmx?
Well my dumbass was turning the gears going "oh bearings so smooth" and skipped some teeth. Now to spend another hour in control panel zeroing out
I'm new to sim racing. Should i get t150 or g29 for the same price ?
I was stuck with the same choice and ended up going for the T150, it has better and smoother ffb, of the overall build quality can't really compete with the G29. Though I personally still prefer the internals of the T150
@@Wraith0925 nvm, I ended up with 2nd hand csl dd 😂
@@ifangustivian6509 very nice! I'd go that route as well.
G29
8mm or 9mm, I hear of both
did it with 9mm, I'm not sure if it matters, but I had to increase tension on the belt otherwise it would skip gears
Do skateboard bearings work
No idea. Bearings are bearings. They just need to be the correct dimensions.
How many ball bearings do you need to install the mod?
Watch the video?
Yes, but I couldn't see well because of the camera angle.
XD did this mod and nothing changed
I have tmx pro and I think this can be an engine issue
I didnt know this was a thing.... IM DOING IT
Is the mod worth it?is there a chance of accidentally breaking the wheel when making it?
Did you watch the video? Lol
It's worth doing if you are considering an upgrade, I've just done it and it's increased my previously VERY AVERAGE Lap times to average and more consistent in Assetto Corsa. I can actually drive that Piece of Shit McLaren Road Car without it CONSTANTLY Spinning
If you don't know what you are doing there is always a chance of you accidently breaking the wheel.
Hi Daniel
There are reports of some people talking about overheating issues with the T150. Do you think that the reduced friction might help to minimize the risk of overheating?
No? Depends on what's overheating.
@@FalconsTech the motor
mostly on long endurance race stints of 2h
@@Rodri-86 it probably wouldn’t solve the heat issue because the reduction in friction is not on the motor itself, so maybe it would extend the play time by 10% at most
Where would you buy a bearing like that???? 😳😳😳😳
this is a badass video I love my tmx but if this helps, I’m doing it.
I’m about to switch to aftermarket NRG sim wheel so it might as well be fresh 100% 🤩
Check the description. I think Amazon.
I bought them straight off the skf site.
Why not do the drive cog bearing mod while you were there?
1) More complicated. 2) Allegedly isn't as big of a difference.
Because the pulley is plastic, plastic on metal will wear rapidly
My wheel was unaligned
My wheel does not slide out after taking the screws out??
my too, I dont know what to do, I think it was glued to it or I dont know
can i do it with a t150 ?
Yes you can, these are the same steering wheel bases.
Almost all cables are fked up and c
Did this work it T150 ?
Did you watch the video? Or even read the title? Lol
awsum
I have the same one
In my opinion this wasn't worth it, i barely feel and see the difference and it still feels stiff
You bought a cheap used bearing then 😂
@@huhkgerry nope i used new bearings
sick vid dude
Where can I buy these ball bearings???
I found them!