Thrustmaster T3PA Load Cell Mod
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2021
- Everyone talks about doing this mod, but there's no good video on youtube on how to do it! So I made one.
Parts list:
20kg load cell
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Amplifier
www.leobodnar.com/shop/index.p...
3 pin female-to-female connector
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Rubber stoppers
www.jwwinco.com/en-us/product...)
Thread adapter (for my version of the bracket, TM has changed this over the years)
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07... - Наука та технологія
Thanks for this, I was able to use your video and complete this mod on my brake pedal!
You're an absolute legend for this
Lol thanks
I found some rubber stoppers that were actually Cone shape that were a bit softer. Thanks for the video
I have this mod and it’s awesome. I got some aftermarket big rubber plug that is a lot more durable then the stupid one they send it with
Do you know if it would work with Xbox?
Push. Same Question for PS5
Hi, thank you very much for the guide. I also felt that throttle pedal spring is too soft so i did a swap according to your guide and it is a big difference. I also checked the brake pedal since i had an issue with squeaking and rubbing noises, it turned out that brake pedal spring was off set and also full of dog fur. I cleaned everything but i didn't had the original grease so i just used bike chain grease i hope it is fine. Thanks again.
Thanks for the video! I finally got around to putting a loadcell in my t3pa, it definitely helped getting all the necessary parts together.
Didnt really bother with the thread adapter tho and just used a bolt with a washer from the back bolting into the loadcell, lot easier to get it tight. For the rubber stops i just tie-wrapped a thick silicone strip to it.
20kg is definitely the minimum but still feels too light to me. I guess i could try to fit in two 20kg cells and connect them in parallel to get 40kg.
I think something is wrong with my setup, i did this with the 20kg cell. And it’s almost impossible to hit 100%, any idea what i did wrong?
I used the 2 holes furthest apart
@@heidi_homsestol2728did you open the thrustmaster control panel after the mod?
@@YASEEN_ZA no i use playstation
@@YASEEN_ZAto hit 100% I feel like im breaking my whole rig
@@heidi_homsestol2728 you probably bought a 200kg load cell. Lol jk, is it on every game though? I know some games allow you to calibrate the pedals
Thanks for this video. Does the hardness of the rubber stopper matter? The link provided requires me to select the correct variation, but I am not sure on the hardness.
I would suggest a softer one, as the harder ones don't have much give. But that's just my preference. It won't change the amount of pressure you'll need to apply. It'll only change the amount of give the pedal will have after you hit the stopper, or the overall "feel".
Hi Daniel thank you for your very simple and intuitive video to make, I just wanted to ask you a question by ordering the pieces from the usa that adopts a 12 volts electricity supply system, I who live in Europe with 220 volts electricity can have problems installing the mod? amplifier etc. etc. thanks for the answer ... I'll follow you
As far as I know these are all low voltage parts so I can't imagine that being a problem.
Thanks, I'll definitely be doing this! Though, the wires you linked in the description were unavailable. I'm new to fiddling with electronics, what would I need to search to find similar cables?
Just as it is in the description. Amazon should give you alternatives on the product page.
ZYAMY 10PCS 3P- Line 3P Pins 2.54mm Pitch Female to Female- Cable Connector Multicolor Jumper Wire for Breadboard 20CM on Amazon
Rly nice vid!
But i got a question...
Is it in theory possible to accomplish this at the T3PM as well which comes with the T248?
Since in the end it would be rly neat if i could save that extra money since the T3PM already has hall sensors inside like on the T-LCM as well as the brake already has a rly nice spring with different hardens...
guess in regular it should be doable since it kinda is like the T-LCM just that it is missing the load cell in the end... but not 100% sure about it ^^'
Hi. The loadcell nowadays ships with a "Hx711" board. Is that sufficient as an amplifier?
According to one study, that average driver can sustain a brake input for of 260N repeatedly indefinitely. Thats around 26 kg of force. So if you can find one, a 30Kg loadcell may be more representative.
Of course, in real world racing braking forces go uo even higher than that.
One question is that I saw there is a gap between the rubbber stopper and the pedal itself. Shouldn't there be no gap at all? Doesn't it cause some weird deadzone like feeling? If I have the chance to get the rubber stoppers to be directly in touch with the pedal to opt for those?
Yes there is a deadzone, and I prefer it that way.
Thanks, it worked!! Having problem to ease the force needed to block the wheels. Bought a 20Kg load cell. Tried some setup, but any luck. Anyone has an advice?
The only current sensors I can find in my country (30A ACS712 Current Sensor Module) have the +- inputs but not a 5v and Ground on the load cell side. Could they just be wired to the output side of the board?
Nice video .... do you know where i can find "PCS 3 PIN JST XH Female Connector on Both Side - 100mm 1007 26 AWG" ?
Hiya mate. Cheers for doing this video, very easy to follow 👍 I've just done a step by step with my pedals and opened up gt7 to see if the cell was registering but interestingly it's not... It just occurred to me before I take the cover off and start fault finding, will this load cell still work with console? Do I need to do some calibration on pc before it'll work? Only other thing I can think may be wrong is the orientation of the cell wiring.
Cheers.
Hi there! Did you manage to get it to work? Im strongly considering doing this mod and i pretty much only play gt7 so having it not work there would be a let down :(
@@SLIMZ34 yeah it works fine. I had the wires the wrong way around 😅 if I remember correctly the wires are backwards on the pedals, so red on the cell has to go to black on the pedals and vice versa. It works straight away no issues on PS. I will say though, load cell mod isn't worth all the hype unless you make some sort of dampener to go with it. Without its just a rock hard pedal which is completely unrealistic.
@@ayautomotivevisuals thanks for the reply! I might just give this a go then. Interesting point about the dampener. I've seen a couple other vids where they put some rubber between the load cell and the pedal so thats probably why. Will give that some thought too if i go throughh with it :)
@@SLIMZ34 yeah I first fitted a rubber stop but it had literally no give. Currently I have a bit of silicone hose between the pedal and the cell which is pretty firm, but squishy when you press it with your foot. I'll be honest if you're tight like me or skint and like to tinker, it's not a bad mod for £20/£30 but, if you're doing it because you want a better set up, just get the better pedals 🤣
@@ayautomotivevisualsdid you get the exact amplifier he used?
Im in Europe but i can only find the hx board and people say that doesn’t work
Maybe you could drill holes in rubber bumpers to create a softer feel. Idk but I guess I'll find out soon
Did you try this in the end? I've got the load cell and it feels way too firm!
Hello everyone, after a while, without remembering this great video, I have to say that I put everything together and it works great. Of course, the accelerator and clutch must be tightened as they are soft for this model. The load cell really works wonderfully.
Nice project. Did you bypass the brake potentiometer and wire directly into the load cell amp?
Yes, that's what this mod does. You unplug the brake potentiometer and plug in the load cell to the pedal controller.
@@FalconsTech Thanks for the reply, do you still use this mod? I just bought a 100kg load cell and already own the Leo Bodnar board but never have used it, what are your thoughts after extended use today?
Thanks again, I subbed. 🙂
One question, do you know if its required to use the Leo Bodnar amplifier or can you use any other brand?
Shipping is more than the product itself, so i'm looking for an alternative!
No idea. The design is from elsewhere on the internet. I never bothered looking into alternatives.
I found myself in the same situation and found an alternative with the INA122P(A) amplifier. I followed this tutorial (you can Google translate it) and weldered a board following the given diagram, and it works! If you are curious, you'll find a bunch of other tutorials linked at the end of this one.
4utem.blogspot.com/2020/09/loadcell-mod-t3pa-fekpedalhoz.html
I can't find that thread adapter size in England, has anyone been able to find it? Or perhaps any alternatives to make the load cell stay in place?
what if you replace those rubbers with springs or rubbers inside the spring so you can eliminate initial travel deadzone?
I have no idea how you'd mount springs in a secured way. I think there are already rubber replacement mods for the internal spring.
I am having so much issues with this mod.
My sensor from LeoB always sends 3.3V on the output pin nomatter what combination of loadcell inputs I put. I wonder if its broken.
Can we replace the gas pedal with the clutch pedal and vice versa? i would like to invert my pedals
You can do this by simply switching the gas and clutch connectors on the board inside the T3PA. You can clearly see the board at 07:13 in the video.
can you use a spring instead of a rubber stop? that way, there is literally no dead zone? also, is it possible to use the smaller half dollar size 50kg load cells instead?
If you can figure out a way to attach a spring to the load cell, I don't see why not.
I just bought the T300rs get wheel withe the t3pa pedals. Tried doing this mod. But when I tried it the brake pedal didn’t work at all I used the same parts as you. The gas and clutch pedals work fine( factory condition) But the load cell mod isn’t. Is there something else I forgot to do. Any suggestions would help. Thanks.
I have the same setup. It worked the first time. Recheck the wires routing, or redo the connections.
Hello!
I have watched this video several times to do the same but i have one question! There is no spring between loadcell and the pedal. So until you push the pedal down to the load call you wont have any braking. You say it feels so good. Doesn't it affect your driving?
The original brake pedal spring is still inside.
@@FalconsTech yes but you won't make any braking until you push the pedal to the damper. Which is why I'm planning to put a small load cell under the spring instead.
Real life cars have some dead zone on the brake pedal before the brakes actually bite. Idk about race cars, but it feels natural to me.
@@FalconsTech of course but also real cars' brake pedals go deeper when you push harder despite this mode. The damper will squeeze couple of millimeters. If you look at load cell pedals you will understand what i mean. I appreciate the effort you make but there is some shortage on realism on this mod. But if you put a compression spring between the loadcell and the pedal it will be perfect I think.
@@SiskoMilo I am looking at doing this mod soon. Out of curiosity, I am going to test out some springs with an ID of 15mm (to slide over the stoppers) for low-pressure braking.
6:44 you flip the cables around so what is red is black, black is yellow and yellow is black
This results in what was labelled 5V going to ground and what was ground going to 5V.
I've seen other guides doing this but they claim various different reasons for it, one is saying that it's from using the usb adaptor but then another does the same cable flip and they're plugged into the wheelbase.
How are your pedals attached to the pc?
PC
The color of the wires don't matter. As long as the correct pins are connected you're fine. The female to female wire set is keyed, as is the main board. So it can only go in one way to the pedal's board. I simply matched those wires to the appropriate connection on the other board.
Sorry to get you going in two threads dude lol
I hear you that the colours don't matter but when you swap the connection over the black ground wire on the left is now a red cable and you put that now red cable into the 5v pin on the amp
Several other guides say this is required to make them work and that thrustmasters wired then backwards but it's just going against all instinct and I do not wanna burn out this amp
@@FalconsTechme again! Just went for it, full send.
Thrustmaster does have the wiring colours backwards from the norm red to ground and black to 5v.
Pedals plugged in to TM usb adaptor and working great, thankyou for your time and I appreciate you
My t3pa gt is 3v on 5v line in yours, i buy the same parts but doesnt work
will any load cell amplifier do? i can find many different ones for a thrid of the price.
Op amps can be made various different ways in many different configurations. I didn't look at the specs on this one, just bought what the overall design called for. See other comments discussing different load cell amps.
Just a head up for anyone doing this: Sometimes the Earth is Red and the Power is Black. Multimeter your pins first. And the HX board you find online wont work either.
So there's no way to attach the HX711 to the pedal controller board?
hmm 😕
Does anyone else feel like the brake pedal just doesn't travel far enough with the load cell? Getting 10-50% braking input still requires a load of pressure which doesn't seem right.
Once upgraded will it work on X box? The pedals are plug and play so no calibration and recognized as the T3pa pedals? If you don’t know, anyone know how to find out?
My understanding is they'll still work on consoles just fine. I haven't tested it myself though.
@@FalconsTech Thanks
Yes, this will work on console
I ordered a 'm5 stack hx711' amp, please google it I don't think its the same as a normal hx711 (it's a small white box with orange parts). Could you please tell me whether this would work? If it will, what connector would I need to attach it to the circuit board of the pedals? Thank you
Info in the description of the product:
M5Stack Weight Unit integrates a 24-bit HX711 A/D chip specially designed for electronic weighing equipment.
The input multiplexer selects either channel A or B as the differential input for the low noise programmable amplifier (PGA).
Channel A can be programmed with a gain of 128 or 64, which corresponds to a full-scale differential input voltage of ±20mV or ±40mV, respectively, when a 5V supply is connected to the analog supply pin AVDD.
Channel B has a fixed gain of 32. No programming is required for the internal registers. All controls of the HX711 are done through the pins.
In the test we have this device channel A to connect a pressure sensor. Then we use the M5Core screen to display the weight data.
product features
On-chip active low-noise PGA with selectable gain of 32, 64 and 128
On-chip power supply regulator for load cell and ADC analog supply
On-chip power-on reset
Pin controlled control
Selectable 10SPS or 80SPS output data rate
Simultaneous 50 and 60 Hz supply rejection
Current consumption including on-chip analog power supply regulator: normal operation < 1.5mA, power down < 1uA
Operating voltage range: 2.6~5.5V
Operating temperature range: -40 ~ +85 ?
16-pin SOP-16 package
Program platform: Arduino, UIFlow(Blockly, Python)
Net weight: 8g
Gross weight: 20g
Product size: 40*24*12mm
Pack size: 67*53*12mm
inclusive
1x weight unit
1x Grove cable
You bought something with different specifications than what I got, so I have no idea. The gain ranges are different. Best case your signals are fucked up. You could try making a voltage divider. I would just buy the correct specd part.
How has this mod held up for you? Still 20kg? Did you find the perfect rubber bumpers?
I don't play very often, but yeah, still works fine.
Despite having some TM TLCMs for a few months, I still have the T3PAs that came with the steering wheel, I had planned to put them up for sale but of course, I have seen your wonderful video and...
I see a lot of this model for sale second hand. I think it would be an extra to add a load cell and be able to sell it for a little more, but not before trying it out, despite the fact that the vast majority of people say that they are bad pedals. I have noticed that you have used Leo Bodnar's amp, but I have also seen that there are many other amps other than this one. Is it necessary, yes or yes, to use Leo Bodnar's? Thank you very much for the clarification you can give me. All the best.
I simply used what was recommended online. I didn't look into any alternatives.
@@FalconsTech Thanks. I'm going to try the amp that comes with the load cell since I see that it meets the same characteristics, if I see that it doesn't know much, then I'll go for Leo's. Thank you.
@@Darchful How did this work out for you? what amp did you use?
@@oxide7 Hi, I'm looking forward to it right now. The HX711 came with the load cell but they told me in a forum that with it I would have to connect it to the Arduino board, I didn't want any more clutter. The main objective is to test them, with the mod and sell them with an added value. There are many second hand T3PA but without load cell. This week I bought the Leo Bodnar amp, I'm waiting for it to arrive. If I find out anything else I'll let you know here. All the best.
@@Darchful @Darchful Correct, the HX board will not work. One is digital and one is analogue. I tried the HX and it definitely doesnt work. Make sure you pins test you power and earths as sometimes the earth is Red and the Power is Black.
Hey Dan, I'm considering doing this - but the client is 8 years old... Would you still go for 20kg or might it be an idea to go with 10kg?
10kg would be way too light. Unless you're disabled, 20kg is the bare minimum.
@@FalconsTech and for an 8 year old? He weighs about a third of me!
Ah, missed that. My bad. Honestly, no idea.
Do you have a dead zone before the pedal touch the sensor?
It's a force sensor, so it doesn't take input unless something is physically contacting it.
The answer to your question is yes
Will this work for the T3PA pro pedals?
No idea
May i replace your load cell amplifier with a Classic hx711 (without arduino) load cell amplifier only? What do you think? Out of GB your load cell amp is too much expensive due to the shipping cost after brexit .
No idea, sorry
@@FalconsTech thx anyway
No, you need an arduino for that.
Are your pedals plugged into the wheelbase or into the USB adaptor?
Wheelbase
Really appreciate the reply dude, I'm getting conflicting info from the istv and revolution racing guides on the internet with regards to the 5v and the gnd pins from the thrustmaster board to the load cell amp, some say you have to reverse them, others say only if plugged into usb and the rest say only if plugged into the pedal base lol
I notice in your video it appears as though you too flip the ground and the 5v pins but I don't hear any mention of why, got my pedals in pieces right now and I'm just a touch nervous to shove them onto usb power
@@FalconsTech me again! Just went for it, full send.
Thrustmaster does have the wiring colours backwards from the norm red to ground and black to 5v.
Pedals plugged in to TM usb adaptor and working great, thankyou for your time and I appreciate you
Does this mod work with the PS4 still?
Can the ebay amplifier be used? I see a few kits with a 20kg and a red or green board amplifier.
No idea. You'd have to compare the circuit diagrams to know for sure. Or at least eye ball the components on the pcb.
Most load cells are sold with the HX711 amplifier which is unfortunately NOT adapted for this project, because this amplifier gives digital signal and the Thrusmaster board needs analog signal. A work around to make the HX711 amplifier work is to connect it to an Arduino and connect the Arduino to a PC to process the signal. This could be a solution for PC games, but I don't think that's a solution for console games.
The solution is to use the amplifier described in the video or another amplifier. I found an alternative with the INA122P(A) amplifier. I followed this tutorial (you can Google translate it) and weldered a board following the given diagram, and it works! If you are curious, you'll find a bunch of other tutorials linked at the end of this one.
4utem.blogspot.com/2020/09/loadcell-mod-t3pa-fekpedalhoz.html
@@lokeheps8362 thanks I'll check it out.
For the amplifier, did you use the spare little black attachment thingy that comes with ot? Or just plug your wire straight onto the amp as it is?
biubvtcrd5
Wondering if you can help me , installed everything but without touching the load cell it says I have 100% brake pressure. Even if I press the brake it stays at 100%?
Sounds like you got your leads mixed up? Maybe you have power plugged into the signal input?
@@FalconsTech thanks for the reply! I have had a look at all the cables , the cables going to the amplifier are okay as it’s reading the load cell and the green light on the amp is on.
The load cell wires are connect like your video but on the thrust master software it just shows the brake bar fully green with no input , I’m thinking my load cell is faulty 😕 I have sent that one back and waiting for a new one to come and hopefully it works. I’ll post hear again if it does or doesn’t
@@FalconsTech it was the load cell! Thank god for that, load cell was faulty so got a replacement. I’m so happy I didn’t burn or damage the amp. Thanks for your video!
Glad to hear it wasn't something major.
it needs to be pressed very hard, has anyone tried 10kg celle?
at 100% brake (acc) my palyseat is lifted off the ground.
I just ordered the parts for this. Have you found a solution?
You can adjust your brake pressure settings in any game. You don't need to go 100% on the load cell to hit 100% in game if you don't want to.
Hy there. Does it work on Konsole like PS5? Do i have to calibrate it first on PC to get it work?
I don't use my rig on console, but as others have said in the comments it should work on consoles.
It's work with T3PM pedal?
No
Whats the difference in this amplifier and the hx711?
No idea, I just bought the one that's recommended for this mod.
@@FalconsTech thanks for the reply
hx711 is digital amplifier, here you need analog one
Hello, can you tell me what tool you use to unscrew the nut from conical brake mod?
Like to get the original off? Just used my hands.
where did you get the bracket 8:06
Comes with the pedals
You can buy it from the Trustmasters website, its $9,99.
I've got my set 2nd hand, so i went with that route.
@@Nickinatorz can you send the link? I wasn’t able to choose to have it shipped to the US. I bought mine used as well and it didn’t come with the bracket.
Load cell not available at amaz
Do you know how to use Amazon? Lol
have you tried these with the pedals inverted, does it still work?
I have not
What is the reason for not working it when pedals are inverted? Brake pedal stays in the middle so nothing really change.
I inverted mine t3pa after installing similar load cell (bought whole kit) because this helped me press harder on the brake.
This does not work on the t300rs gt pedals. Help?
That's a wheel, not a pedal set.
@@FalconsTech yes, the pedal that comes with it is different, it looks similar the only difference is the petal plates on the throttles. I did the mod but there’s no gap between the brakes and load cell, so the only thing I have on there is the conical rubber brake mod.
@@bricorico6584 You're saying that instead of adding the rubber stoppers OP suggested, you simply kept the original conical brake mod, that comes witht he pedals?
Did you got it working? Mine too doesnt work with same parts in this video, 3v instead of 5v
@@lndnfsu2 no it does not work, instead I bought a fanatec csl elite pedals v2. Which I don’t regret if you have the money to spend. Invest on a good pedals if you want to take sim racing seriously, hope this helps.
You should warn people about the cogs or whatever you Wana call them can get out of alignment and are a super pain to get back perfect
I have no idea what you're talking about.
@@FalconsTech hmm how to explain it, the gear things one is black one is white when you push the pedal the black cog or gear puts it's teeth things into the white one and causes it to turn giving the amount of input. When you take the pedals apart the teeth of the cog can go out of there original place and then when you put it back together it won't get input till you go say 25% of the pedal pushed. Lol it is hard to explain it with txt but when I did it it took me forever and a bunch of taking apart putting back together to get it back to it's original teeth grooves
You are talking about the potentiometer of the pedal. It rotates when pushing the pedal, and the degree of rotation is electricaly translated in an amount of braking (same for clutch and gas).
When the pedal is at rest (= not pushing on it) and when looking at the potentiometer from the bottom, you should only see 5 teeth on the white gear.
@@lokeheps8362 yes that. It took me like 8 taking apart and reassembly to get it back right
god damn it, lost the original bracket, no mod for me
One thing you failed to mention in this video is what size screw is needed to connect the load cell to the conical bracket. Since you failed to mention it, I will! For those who would like to know, you need an M5-0.8 x 25mm screw. Also, you should've let people get a clear look at what color wire goes where without your head and hand being in the way, or the camera being too far away to get a clear view once finished. Other than that, thanks for the info.
The size of the screw is obvious given the size of the thread adapter. You can clearly see the wire connections at 10:52. Not to mention one should be referring to the wiring diagram of whatever product they are purchasing due to any potential differences.
The size of the screw was not obvious and his comment clarifying getting the 25mm length and not something longer is actually very helpful. I am big dum dum so clear instructions go a long way. Thank you for this guide though it was very easy to follow! My pedals feel so much better.@@FalconsTech
Total cost about 50 bucks.
Does it work on ps4?
Dunno. Don't have one.
@@FalconsTech thanks for reply
Yes, it does on PS3 (t300) PS4 and PC, it acts same as regular t3pa pedal
@@simonasgudjonis7188 thanks
Compatible on ps4?
The T150 is
@@FalconsTech T300, Pedal like yours, Playstation 4
@@marcelobriguenti2490 T300 is PS4 and PS3 compatible, pedals do not break compatibility
I did the same. But it kills my Mainboard in the wheel... Because you must know, which wire is plus and which wire is minus of the power.... If you didn't plug in the right wires, it kills your Mainboard.
You don't show that in your video..
Actually, I do. At about 7:20 I show the wires connecting the op amp to the main board, and at about 10:00 I talk about the wiring from the load cell to the op amp. Sounds like you're trying to find blame elsewhere for something you messed up.
@@FalconsTech No no... I was doing this before this video came out... I don't blame anything else. It was my own stupidity 😂. But ok, I overheard it or overlooked it with you. It's all ok.👍
I had a similar issue: Instead of using a new off the shelf 3 pin connector I just cut the original brake to board connector and re-used it to connect to the op amp pins with some solder. The problem is that the Stock wiring on the pedals is actually Black = voltage, Red = Ground - which is super annoying! If you follow the video and get a new 3 pin female to female connector from amazon you won't have this problem as on a third party 3 pin wire connector then black = ground and red = voltage as you would expect.
@@79doylie I got now fanatec....
that leo bodnar amplifier seems great, but heavily overpriced!
15 pounds plus 7 pounds shipping, then the around 30 pound customs fee for their "hard work" of adding 25% vat on both the purchase prize and the shipping cost... no thanks, guess i have to try the arduino way!
sometimes i dream so sweetly about the lamp posts in my street, each and every one is decorated with a rotting politician hanging from from their own intestines... 😒
Just find on Conrad same thing with 10 times cheaper price. It is incredibly simple thing actually.
@@SiskoMilo Do you have a link of the product? i have a hard time finding it
@@marnik7430 well it didn't work, leo bodnar is analogue amplifier, they sell only digital unfortunately. But you can make your own from INA125-126 chip. That's what im working on. I have loadcell pedals but just as a hobby project.
I'm reposting my comment, I don't know why but it disappeared.
For people struggling to buy the Leo Bodnar amplifier linked in this video, there are other solutions like the INA122P(A) amplifier. I followed this tutorial (you can Google translate it) and soldered a board following the given electrical diagram, and it works! If you are curious, you'll find a bunch of other tutorials linked at the end of this one.
4utem.blogspot.com/2020/09/loadcell-mod-t3pa-fekpedalhoz.html
The result is the same as the Leo Bodnar amplifier, but more precise because you can adjust the force you need to apply by adjusting the Gain potentiometer.
This is a completely DIY board, which means you need to order each part separetely (there is a list in the tutorial), and then solder everything to a through holes board following the electrical diagram.
You can see a picture in the tutorial of what it looks like after the soldering.
This is doable if you have the adequate equipment and if you can read the electrical diagram. But definitely A LOT harder than the Leo Bodnar solution, which is nearly plug-and-play.
It took me 5-6hours to order the correct parts (I bought them on "mouser"), and then 5-6hours to solder everything (I had 0 experience in soldering before).
I already had the soldering station and some of the components. If you don't, you really need to compare the total price of your investment (soldering station+ separate parts) to the price of the Leo Bodnar board.
Good luck!
I was the guy that asked you about all that, thank you so much for the answer in your Repost, please have a wonderful day!
God save the day. It way cheaper for buy the leonard. Thank you so much.