Thrustmaster T300 Metal Bearing & Pinion Upgrade Mod
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- Опубліковано 6 гру 2021
- This video is a step by step guide on how to upgrade the plastic belt tensioners and motor pinion for metal bearings and a metal pinion.
This should give a smoother feel and potentially make the FFB feel stronger.
Parts required:
Metal motor pinion, 3M-16T Step Timing Pulley Bore 4-8mm, 11mm belt width, 5mm bore
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273850539897
6 Bearings (693), size 3mm x 8mm x 3mm
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371164430935
Small washers (approx 5mm) - Ігри
Mod done!! The little bearings are a bit noisy but now the steering feels so smooth
Did this upgrade a while back and just went ahead and swapped out the other belt’s tensioners with bearings too. The other ones are definitely a bit more work, as you have to get/make replacement axles for the bearings - but definitely worth it. Was clearly smoother compared to stock even with just this, but replacing the other tensioners with bearings takes it to another level. 100% recommend!
Hi mate do you have any more information on this please? How did you get around or make the replacement Axel's ? Thank you
@@GRiiiMx Sure dude: Accessing the tensioners requires removing the front panel - a couple on the bottom and 5 or so on the front. The tensioners are screwed in from the front on sleds. The axle can be pushed out using a screwdriver. The replacement axle you’re going to need is basically any round steel with 5 mm diameter, which you then just need to cut to length (and possibly file to get rid of any rough edges). The bearings should be approx. 5x13x4mm, and you need 6 in total. Then just push the new axles into the assembly and through the bearings and reassemble. Once I found my materials, easy enough to do.
@@milosberka4588 thank you! Time to shop!
@@milosberka4588 im in the process of doing bearing mods to a TX wheel base, same internals as a T300 as far as motor, tensioners, and rollers go. why did you need to make custom axles for these rollers? maybe the TX is slightly different from the T300 on these rollers, but seems the stock axles would be fine with these same bearing sizes you listed.
@@ZXR_SBK The stock axles have notches in them, with a smaller diameter in the middle vs the ends, so the bearings wouldn’t be properly supported.
Great video. Ordered parts. We are waiting for the continuation.
Got a $90 new tmx last week and already taken it apart 4 or 5 times.
If thrust master spent some time updating it, the tmx would be entry level king for another 10 years
Thanks for the video and links. I note that you can use 3 bearings 3x9x4 without any spacers and washers
Sorry, may be a stupid question and also a bit late, but does it affect longetivity or anything in a negative way when you don't use washers?
@@lc_dzn9112
I do not think so. I definitely recommend bearings without washers and mod from the author of this video. You will be surprised how the feeling will change
3x9x3.5 are better if they exist.
hello, i found 3x8x3 and 3x9x4 bearings, which are better and why? thanks
@@eduardarhot4903 привет, лучше будут 3х9х4, т.к не нужно будет регулировать натяжение и искать баланс, также отмечу, что стандартные натяжители идут именно 9мм во внешнем диаметре, а не 8мм.
Также если углубляться, то чем больше внешний радиус колеса(в нашем случае подшипника) тем больше нужно будет поворота ремня, чтобы прокрутить его одинаковое количество раз(я знаю что разница совсем не значительная, но на как-то это должно влиять, так как подшипник будет крутиться на слегка меньших оборотах )я не знаю как это объяснить по "инженерному" но чтобы понять, просто возьмите два круглых объекта, разных по радиусу, сделайте отметку в верхней точке, и прокрутите по столу, и вы увидите что круглый объект с меньшим радиусом пройдет меньшее расстояние по столу, до полного оборота.
Не знаю зачем я это всё расписывал)
Берите 3х9х4 😁
Thanks for the link to buy the pinion. I've upgraded to the parts you have recommended. This is a good video....BUT your leaving out vital and potentially catastrophic things to pay attention to.
Make sure you do not let the belt move without the pinions moving. You will lose TDC. Top dead center.
You need to mark the belt and the tooth on the pinion. I like to mark the motor as well. It's just the belt you MUST NOT MOVE.
The shift has a flat side. The pinion you recommend is almost too long. The retaining screws need to be lined up right because of the flat side. So just remember top dead center or your wheel will be turned and not calibrate correctly. It can get ugly. Lol. I know. I had to take my completely apart. It's all about the pully positions.
Hi thanks for the points you made. It is a good idea to mark where the belt is, I didn't but afterwards I did have to use the downloadable software available via a google search which recalibrates TDC.
@@simpulse5825 Just like you can toggle the cooling fan from auto to full time by holding 3 buttons.....MODE, SHARE AND START. I think?......there is a way to calibrate a new tdc and something with the pedals.
is the pinion upgrade worth it? i have a t150 and i’m doing bearing upgrade and maybe do the pinion. but the only thing i’m scared of is losing the TDC
@@azzaz905 it's hard to know if the pinion makes any difference, but you can mark where the belt is and refit in the same place, or refit roughly where it was and use the third party calibration software. You can find this on google.
Can you please provide the name of the third party software that you had used to recalibrate the TDC. Because I have the same issue as I lost control of my car and the TDC while driving in game. I tried resetting and recalibrating the TDC through the thrustmaster control panel and everytime I lose the TDC while in the middle of the game. Is the Hall sensor picking this mod up?
Very good content, keep the good work!
Thank you :)
Hi i want to mod my t300 i was wondering what size washer did you use as the description only specify 5mm thanks and keep up the good vid 👍
very good upgrate , maybe i will do it one day
Thanks for the mod.
Hello, very good mod 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Does this get rid of the notchy feeling at center?
Hi Buddy, great informative video, just one question, if you have gone to all that trouble, why not undo a few more screws and replace the bottom Nylon rollers to bearings ?
Keep up the awesome content.
Because you have to make custom shafts
I also did this to my Thrustmaster TMX. Worked great
Which Pinon size did you use? 5mm and 11mm is too large for TMX/150
@@BluFrost8888 Did you end up doing the Pinion mod?
@Brandon4179 nope lol, tbh I don't think it'll make a a huge difference anyways since the TMX/T150 is fundamentally worse than the T300/TX with its gear system. The bearings 3x8x4mm (693ZZ size) made a decent difference but nothing significant like going for a fully belt system on the T300/TX.
I just saved the correct T300 pinion size that I ordered in my tool chest for whenever I get a T300 and sell my T150
@@BluFrost8888 Ah okay, I'll probably just do the bearing mod. Thank you for the response.
Cheers for the video I'm now going to grab these parts and do this myself 🙂
Where can you get the metal pinion?
@@jctinkler88 ebay, link in the description :)
@@simpulse5825 does 10mm belt width work too? thats all i can find online currently in my area
waht would happen if one would change the gear ratio ? say from 16 teeth pinion > 15 ?
would the software still be able to calibrate correctly or would u like need to put in higher wheel rotation software wise to get the same amount of wheel rotation like with the original gearing ?
Hello, In the video description you mention we need an 11mm belt width 5mm bore motor pinion, would a 12mm belt width 5mm bore motor pinion work? Shipping is around 2 months waiting time for me and waiting that long for the pinion is not something I'd like to do. I found one locally that is 12mm in width but I don't know if that one would work.
The supplier of the pinion wont ship to the united states & I cant find it on ebay. Does anyone have a link for a united states based supplier?
Hi ...thanks ...beautiful tutorial.
Where i can find this mode ?
Thanks
Hey man, I was doing the bearings and the first one got stuck in the middle of the rod. I have bought the 693, which was 3x9x3, and it doesnt go all the way in or out. What can I do?
edit: glad I have read every comment here to see if anyone has the same problem... sanded the shaft using 240 grit and bearings fits easily
Just ordered a t300 base was wondering if you could make a video showcasing a few minor part replacements and tips to extend the life and reliability of the wheel anything from metal replacements, betters motors and fans would be appreciated
Hi thanks for watching. I have another video showing how to replace a failed motor with a like-for-like but unfortunately since the video, the motors have been almost impossible to get hold of.
Aside from that, many people have upgraded the fan but I have not. I use the 'forced cooling' mode which keeps the fan on all of the time. This is definitely recommended.
What is the actual width of the timing belt? Will this work with 10mm belt width timing pulley?
can this work on ts-pc racer? or the pinion is slitghly different?
Just ordered them now after fixing my wheel there is also another belt that has 2 tensioners I wonder if they can be changed as well I've got a spare one here will have a look to see if there the same size and let you no
Hello. Were you able to replace the other tensioners?
Any luck on them fitting
E possibile sostituire anche la cinghia con una più resistente?
is there a way to get these from or to the usa they dont post to the US
How wide is the strap on the t300rs?
gotta try this
Всем привет. А где вообще можно найти какой диаметр руля применяется в ралли?
What is the advantage of replacing the plastic pinion with the aluminum one? the plastic one is certainly lighter
In first revision this plastic pulley is shit, the hole not on mid of pulley, this give our some vibration & maybee noise, the weight difference is only few grams, it not matter
Здравствуйте,какой ремень нужен для т300? Что бы заменить ремни в руле
So this is not a kit? Sounds awesome but it not really having any support worries me to try.
Can you use bearing size 3mm 8mm 4mm?
Those 5mm washers made of plastic, Nylon?
has anyone done this to the ts-xw/ts-pc base?
Hi, for the pinion, is it 16 teeth? Also, I cant seem to find the same width of 11mm, most are 10mm or 14mm.. Must it be 11mm, and if can be different, should I pick the one more or less than 11mm?
Next one, for the bearings, I found 693ZZ MR83, but the size is 3mm x 8mm x 4mm.. Is it ok? Or should I source for 3x8x3?
This will work. I used these before. They fit better than the 3x8x3 but to make it perfect you should actually look for 3x9x4 to mimic the same size as the plastic rollers.
@@CidiousX Should I buy 16mm or 11mm?
does the diameter of the gears on the new pulley have to be exactly 14.5mm or can they also be 14.77mm cuz i found one on ali for cheaper.
I'm not sure to be honest. The cost of the gears are fairly low. Although the difference between those two figures is minimal so I would imagine it would be fine.
Hmm, and what if you make my T150 completely belt-like the T300
did this mod and afterwards the Top Dead Centre (TDC) kept on getting off centered while in the game, anybody able to permanently fix this issue?
I would say you have not applied enough tension to the belt, and the belt is jumping a tooth at times. I had this when i first repaired my pinion. Particuarly noticable from drifting or high FFB settings. There is a way to recalibrate tdc, i did this when re installing everything, but if your TDC is changing id say your belt is jumping a tooth.
Hi. I'm planning on doing the same mods but I'm a bit worried about the pulley not being D-shapped. Is that going to hold up well with just the screws to tighten it all? Nobody mentions that in their videos/tutorials. Anybody has some insight about that?
It wasn't D shaped on the one i used, but I've been using it for months now and it's solid. The grub screws hold on tightly enough
Hey @@simpulse5825 , thanks for your answer and your tutorial. :)
The pinion has 2 retaining nuts. Line one up on the flat side of the D and it holds great.
Thanks a lot for the video! I have ordered all parts and tried the mod, but unfortunately the bearings do not fit on the shafts. Bearings are said to be 3x8x3, but it seems to me the shafts are 3.1mm or 3.2mm. They are very tight, maybe I could hammer them on, but I don't think that would be a good idea.
It looks like, your bearings slide over the shafts easily, right? Probably have to find other bearings.
Hi, the ones I used are definitely the 3x8x3 and yes they slid on easily. Don't hammer them on! I'm not sure why yours won't fit. Are they definitely the size you ordered?
@@simpulse5825 Hi, thanks for your reply! Yes, maybe I got delivered wrong bearings, will try again with a different shop.
Good to know they should go on easy, so I won't try with force. But I wouldn't use a hammer on my T300, anyway. : )
Cheers!
@@jorn-jorenjorenson5028 Find a micrometer and check the diameter of the shaft, sometimes manufacturers change the spec of certain parts over time.
Let me knoe if this is worth it please I have just gotten a T300 and it is lush but could it be better?
use a bit of 600 grit sandpaper and sand the shafts down a bit. Finish with 1200. And a bit of WD40 when sliding them on did the trick for me.
In my case, one side of the bearings can be put on very easily, another side's a little bit tight-fitting where I need to hammer them on.
I tried to replace the bearings nut ended up braking the whole damn thing. Are you sure the 3mm*8mm*3mm is the correct size? It was a little tight and now I’m trying to contact thrustmaster to replace the bracket so that I can try again. I’m thinking of ordering 3.5mm*8mm*3mm bearings if they exist or a suitable replacement.
3x8x4
Quick question what thickness are the washers you used ?
They were very thin, less than a mm thick. I guess the thickness will be relative to the size of the washer bore.
if you put washers (from splastic roller) between bearings you will get less sound.
Also you forgot upgrade other belt tensioner to bearings.
That's next to be done, but it's a bigger job as you have to take the wheel apart further
@@simpulse5825 No you dont need, just remove front panel. 4-6 bolt in front, and 2 bolts in bottom.
p.s. was two types shafts, so no all bearings will work. but i suggest go for needle bearing.
@@fregisz I'll take a look, thanks for that
How much of an upgrade is it in your opinion ? Worth it? Could you explain all the differences you felt?
It definitely feels smoother and quieter. The feeling is less notchy. I would say it isn't necessarily a game changer but for such little cost and an easy process, it is worth it. As recommended elsewhere, putting grease on the worm gear also helps smoothness and sound so I will be doing that next.
@@simpulse5825 thanks for the reply man, could you please help me find links on ali express? I found the big piece but the 6 bearings & washers im having a hard time with.
@@gster109 I would use ebay but I did find these on aliexpress if that's where you want to get them from:
m.aliexpress.com/item/32761032312.html?spm=a2g0n.productlist.0.0.26ff4e31Ge5K54&browser_id=c6611d8535fc4a09ab458dbf1f632ddc&aff_trace_key=933bbec31c6e4858aaf532a3846352f5-1640640966723-00954-UneMJZVf&aff_platform=msite&m_page_id=jjfif3qfcdmcavx717e57fff0031174152571e24aa&gclid=
It is the 3mm x 8mm x 3mm you will need
@@simpulse5825 Appreciate you man, subbed.
is this also for Thrustmaster TS-XW Wheelbase???
Посмотрите на Ютубе видео по разборке, если устройство натяжителей такое же, то это должно подойти.
hi do you know if this work with the ps5 version of the t300rs aswell ?
yes
wouldnt the metal pinion be worse for the belt? Can you even get replacement belts if it shreds it?
there should be plenty of sites that sell parametric belts
if you had catostrophic failure, either the belt or the plastic gear would break, not ideal. If the belt skips a tooth your calibration will be out of sync with wheels position, so no, a metal gear is not any worse. These pinions are the same ones we use on 3D printers and their belts.
@@Lykkanw 3d printers have much less torque than the wheel tho
@@flippy9133 the stepper motor on a 3d printer / cnc machine has a D groove, as the stepper motor itself sees much more load than on these wheels. These wheels use a faster spinning motor with a small gear that turns a very large gear. That is gear reduction, the 3d printers see much more torque @ the motor. 3D printers do not need gear reduction (though the filament extruder does, but it's all metal gears and no belt)
some 3d printers 100% do and alot of cnc also use belts even giant once all with metal gears if you ever tried to rip or even damage a parametric belts even one 1/4 of this width you would feel how durable they are ( ther mainly made for use with medal gears)@@Lykkanw
Will these parts work for the T500?
I'm not sure as I haven't seen the internals of a T500, but I believe they are the same as the T300, apart from having fixed paddles.
This should work for the tmx yeah ?
I believe so as long as it is belt driven and has the plastic rollers.
Is more better feeling after change rolls?
It is much smoother and quieter and feels less toy-like
Hello . I have one quistion , I can only push My barings about 2 mm down ,they dont slide down . Is it a good idea to use force to get then in place .
They should slide on easily if they are the right size. There will be some slight resistance but excessive force shouldn't be needed
@@simpulse5825 thanks for the answering . I must just try once more
Danm I hate My TM t300 gt now ...
Same problem with mine, the left shaft seems larger after the top and the bearing won’t slide
Today's Update: I've sanded with 230-500 grit sandpaper the shaft till the bearing can fit. No problem at all. Only a bit tricky to recenter the wheel after removing the motor and the belt
Hi!
I changed upper gear to aluminum but I keeped tenioners to original.
And I greased the worm gear on middle, too.
Now my rim isn't straight after calibration progress.
Feeling is pretty much better with tightened belt.
Follow up video on this pleasee
I'll try, although I've forgotten what it was like before! 😅
The bearings, ok. But what for one would want to change the pinion to a metal one? It will work the same, only the metal weights more and has definitely an impact to the characteristics / engine's momentum / torque so I would expect it can discalibrate ffb, at least in some degree. I wouldn't change that, especially without any directly specified reason. Also I think the plastic one runs smoother in contact with a rubber belt. So I'd rather go other way and change metal one to plastic, if it was the case.
In my t300 and for a lot of people, the original plastic pinion's bore is off center which make the steering uneven
@@escalator9734 ok that case makes sense
Unfortunately your opinion has no impact, weighed the pinions and the Aluminium Pinion which is found on most FDM 3D printers was 2g lighter than the Nylon pinion.
@@ianbarnes6266 So, it would then decalibrate ffb in another direction, maybe. Assuming it does, then it doesn't matter if the pinion is heavier or lighter, what matters is that it differs from the device's design base parameters calculations. And so - it must have some impact to the whole mechanism, from the law of physics point of view. Maybe that impact is negligible, maybe not. Can't say for sure without lab tests and pro measuring tools. But definitely such impact exists.
@@wolo you're over thinking it. For one, it's spinning in place so the weight is centered, and it's not free-spinning, it's spinning an entire wheel. If it was free-spinning, the weight would hold contribute to its ability to speed up and slow down, like a flywheel, but it's driving the mechanism & has to overcome that. Source: I've rebuilt engines, built several 3d printers / cnc machines etc.
For "Decalibration" that only happens if you remove the belt from top-dead-center with the assembly, they get out of sync. Someone else here mentioned how to calibrate it again if that happens.
👍
Hi. Where can you buy the metal motor pinion?
I got it on ebay. Link in the description :)
Thanks sim pulse. I didn't click the drop down menu 🙄
How much is the difference in ffb compared to the default?
I wouldn't say it's stronger ffb, just smoother and quieter. The fact that it's smoother maybe gives you a bit more detail
@@simpulse5825 Thanks for the response! By the way, I have a crispy sound on my wheel, when I turn it, this sound appeared like 1 week ago, I bought my wheel a little bit more than 1 year ago, but I don’t feel any problems in the ffb. Should I worry about this or I can just leave it?
@@max-3816 try updating the firmware
@@barra190kw6 I updated it like 2 weeks ago, and it’s gone now lol
@@max-3816
Do you have an updated firmware on mode ps3 (PC) LED indicator glows red or green?
Well I removed the bearings instead of replacing them… and its working much smoother without any problems…
So I found out that apparently you don’t really need any bearings at all… 🤷🏻♂️
Did u have to rise the motor for the belt to be stiff? . Is still everything working alright?
@@kostakhc hey, yes! just remove the bearings, rise the motor up for 2mm will be enough and tight it.
I drive for 3 weeks like this and I don’t have any problems with… I can definitely Recommend👍🏼
@@PabloHamburg hey mate , great to hear all working fine , could you please explain what different you feel without the bearings? Is it worth? ..ive read some cases where peoole getting off centre after tensioning the belt 😬 😅
Hi and thanks for the video, it gave me confidence to go ahead and just do it. Did you also do the bearings on the bottom belt and add lithium grease to the worm gear?
3x8x3 is too small on my t300, replace with 3x8x4
3x9x4 is even better. Since the official rollers are 9mm.
@@CidiousX You are right, 9mm outer diameter is closer to the original roller's size rather than 8mm. I tried 3x9x4mm bearings without any washers are great, but seem to be a little bit thicker. I can't put the original C-Clip on properly because of the thickness, but I replaced it with a very thin rubber O-Ring and it's work.
where did you buy that mod kit?
you need to upgrade the crappy fan
I have already replaced the fan to Noctua NF-A6x25 PWM, when I was doing this upgrade at the same time.
Hi about the 3M-16T how many teeth should i buy? 16teeth-5MM of 20teeth-5MM?
(edit) also there is only pack of 4 bearings and pack of 10 bearings which one should i choose?
Does this mod make the wheel lighter?
It makes the steering wheel roll easier as there's less friction between the belt & pulleys
No but smoother
Does force feedback improve with this upgrade? Is it more stable and with less dips? For now I changed the fan by putting the Noctua and it improved a bit. I would like to know if it is worth doing this upgrade also for the optimal force feedback performance. Let me know your opinion as soon as you can and congratulations for the guide👏😃🍾
glaube nicht das es ein großen unterschied macht
so what does this mod accomplish?
Smoother feel, less notchiness and less noise while turning
@@simpulse5825 is there a way to get these from or to the usa they dont post to the US
@@simpulse5825 will this work on t500rs
@@puresim316nosimracingnolif3 it should do. I believe the internals are the same
@@simpulse5825 ok thanks
Do these parts work for the t150?
For t150 u need 3x9x4 without any pad's
@@user-mw7uq3nl4n cheers you legend!
What about the Pinon size with the T150? That size is only about the ball bearings which I got 3x8x4 to fit perfectly
@@BluFrost8888 so pleased you commented here!
@@BluFrost8888 i do not recommend installing pulley for t150, the parameter's is 16teeth bore 3.175 width like a belt 9mm.
I don't recommend do that because u need to do some space between motor, because shaft too short, and this didn't have a meaning, the gears on t150 is not symmetry (i see that when open mine) and main vibration going from gear.
the belt profile on my is MXL but i see one dude from gtplanet who t150 have the gt3 or 2 belt(i don't remember)
Will that pinion gear fit the TMX FFB wheel?
It does NOT fit, this size is too wide for the belt to be able to go around it and too long for the motor shaft which is exactly the same as on my T150. The T300 uses a differently modelled motor tension area than those because it's fully belt-driven and more powerful.
Who would ever even be able to tell the difference here on this type of mod?
Please don't do this mod exactly as described. The parts sizes are not correct. The bearings are smaller than the original rollers and because of this it's practically impossible to find a balance between tension and smooth operation. The belt will start skafing. And since you can't tighten it properly otherwise you'll have teeth skipping issues. 9mm bearings would be a better option, since the rollers are acutally 9mm and not 8... I used three 3x9x4 per side without the black rings. It's a perfect fit. the lock ring goes on tightly. This mimics the orignals perfectly but smoother. The smaller 3x8x3 ones are not even touching most of the belt width.
Since I did the mod as described, the wheel has been absolutely spot on. I even recently used an un-modified T300 for the first time since I did it and it felt notchy, light ffb and just generally more toy-like.
I'm not advocating that everyone must do this, it's just my own experience of it.
I agree if you can find 3x9x4 bearings then that would be ideal, but I made it work with washers and it has worked flawlessly.
@@simpulse5825 Thanks for the respojnse! So it's maybe a bit of hit and miss. It didn't work for mine so I came back here. Don't get me completely wrong. I'm grateful for the inspiration for the mod and the careful walkthrough guidance you have released here. I just wanted to point out a slight adjustment in the sizes of the bearings to make it actually replicate the old system but smoother. Without skipping or skafing of the belt.
When i put three 3x9x4 on the shaft, i cant put the Clipring on it. How do you get this to work?
@@Daniel200583 please let me know if you get an answer to your question about how to get the lock ring on the end? I just ordered 3x9x4 in anticipation of doing this mod in a few days. I hope you hear back
While it is true that the bearings in this video are smaller than the rollers, you are not taking into account the radial movement the original rollers have. On an old and well used t300 there will be more movement. On my t300 that has had 6 months use, there would have easily been 0.5mm of radial play in the rollers, hence i do not think the 1mm smaller (0.5mm each side) bearings are an issue.