Welp the previous commenter here addressed what I was about to say. That type of corner only works on flatter roofs. But also the nailing patterns you're teaching are not the best. To help prevent warping it's best to nail from the center out or from one side to the other. As an example, when you nail the middle, then the end, then fill in, you're putting an additional stress on the metal that can lead to warping. Might seem like a small detail but nailing from the middle out will give you the cleanest results
if this fellow was to rate commercial roofers he would have to send 95% back to trade school... but on second thought the 'Trade Schools' of late have become Flake Schools. most cannot do proper work from the start and it often results in handyman type repairs that dont always hold out. some do some dont. Always a good watch and understand how to use your understanding of what happens and 'why we do things this way'. Mike Holmes could always use an expert opinion and you qualify to correct many if not most all complicated issues in hip valley gable mansford whatever combination and situation. wonderful workmanship and honest talk about 'whats happening in, on and under your roof' much appreciated. cheers
Thanks for your comment. I would say trade schools are non existent. I think it’s out job as roofer to train the new guys properly on the field. As well as platforms like this
Definitely not. In general I dont like having plastic exposed to the elements, generally all plastic eventually dries up and cracks. Besides I dont see the advantage.
1-1/2 by 3 inch is preferred by most professionals. I fabricate mine to pitch, install vapor barrier 1inch past All edges, install starter flashing 1/2 inch down away from roof deck or facia board nail well, install starter shingles 1 knuckle past all edges.
Honestly not sure of the difference between the two. might be a regional thing because we dont use the term gutter apron here. The concept is the same I think, a 90 degree bent flashing with a kick a at the bottom.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist What we call "drip edge" has a 1"-ish overhang built into it that extends beyond the edge of the roof, and it extends roughly 2" up the roof. The "down" portion over the fascia is also only about an inch, with the kick out like what you're using. What you're installing would be called "gutter apron" here (Northeast).
Is it important to cover the top of the fascia board? I recently had the fascia replaced and the flashing in some spots doesn't cover the top of the fascia. I am afraid the wind will blow rain underneath and rot the wood. Thanks.
100%, in a normal structure a 2" flashing will cover the fascia board. However sometimes we install bigger drip edges depending on the framing. Recently we had a custom 6" drip edge installed.
I think every region/ state calls it something different. In so cal if you call a supplier and ask for a rake edge or c4 they would have no clue what your talking about
I think every region/ state calls it something different. In so cal if you call a supplier and ask for a rake edge or c4 they would have no clue what your talking about
Thanks for watching! Do you install drip edge differently? Let me know below 👇
dont like the corner detail where the drip edge goes from plumb on eave to 5/12 slope on rake.
the drip edge "pooches out" at the corner
Welp the previous commenter here addressed what I was about to say. That type of corner only works on flatter roofs.
But also the nailing patterns you're teaching are not the best. To help prevent warping it's best to nail from the center out or from one side to the other. As an example, when you nail the middle, then the end, then fill in, you're putting an additional stress on the metal that can lead to warping. Might seem like a small detail but nailing from the middle out will give you the cleanest results
This video shows how to do it right!! You're on fire!! Very underrated channel. Keep it up!!
I appreciate that!
Nice tutorial - easy to follow.
All of your videos are exceptionally well explained and demonstrated. Very impressive!
Thank you very much!
Aesthetics elevates this practice area from good to great 👍
Totally agree!
Your channel is GREAT information for us who are trying to do it ourselves. Hope nothing but the best for you and your channel!
Truly appreciate it! Best of luck on your project.
if this fellow was to rate commercial roofers he would have to send 95% back to trade school... but on second thought the 'Trade Schools' of late have become Flake Schools.
most cannot do proper work from the start and it often results in handyman type repairs that dont always hold out. some do some dont.
Always a good watch and understand how to use your understanding of what happens and 'why we do things this way'.
Mike Holmes could always use an expert opinion and you qualify to correct many if not most all complicated issues in hip valley gable mansford whatever combination and situation.
wonderful workmanship and honest talk about 'whats happening in, on and under your roof' much appreciated. cheers
Thanks for your comment. I would say trade schools are non existent. I think it’s out job as roofer to train the new guys properly on the field. As well as platforms like this
Very interesting video. The guys make it look easy. I also like the Southern Pacific Lines sign on the plate girder railroad bridge. Real neat.
Ya, that is a cool sign. I’ve always been a little tempted to take it… jk.
Nice attention to detail.
Good Work
Thank you!
Nice video with clear precise instructions with no time wasted. BTW, would you recommend plastic drip edges ? If no, why not ?
Definitely not. In general I dont like having plastic exposed to the elements, generally all plastic eventually dries up and cracks. Besides I dont see the advantage.
good vid. i guess this is for hip style roofs where there is not gutters installed
Gutters or not the concepts are the same
well presented
Thanks
Nice video., I’m learning thanks.
Glad to help
1-1/2 by 3 inch is preferred by most professionals. I fabricate mine to pitch, install vapor barrier 1inch past All edges, install starter flashing 1/2 inch down away from roof deck or facia board nail well, install starter shingles 1 knuckle past all edges.
Nice, that sounds like some solid roofs your building.
Do you leave the drip edge at 90 degrees or bend it to match the pitch angle of the roof so its flush aganist both surfaces?
Bend it to match, if it is a steep slope you may need to get custom drip edge, if it’s low you can just push it in place
Well done!
Can the drip edge be against the framing or does there need to be space like the eves? on Rake edge?
I like leaving a small gap between it1/8”
Is this corner method for use with a gutter or no gutters?
It doesn’t really make a difference
It appears like you are using gutter apron vs drip edge. Should gutter apron be used on rake edges and drip edge on ridge?
Honestly not sure of the difference between the two. might be a regional thing because we dont use the term gutter apron here. The concept is the same I think, a 90 degree bent flashing with a kick a at the bottom.
@@RoofRepairSpecialist What we call "drip edge" has a 1"-ish overhang built into it that extends beyond the edge of the roof, and it extends roughly 2" up the roof. The "down" portion over the fascia is also only about an inch, with the kick out like what you're using. What you're installing would be called "gutter apron" here (Northeast).
Andre Afsharian ! Well said .
Thanks for watching
In sections drip edge over lap is it fine to leave it as is or do I need to seal it?
What about if the roof it’s a single roof/lean to, how it’s the flashing installed? at the top of it.
Se ve muy fácil, pero ya en el trabajo uno se cuatrapea, solo es cuestión de practica
💯
For the low slope.torch down besides the prep work on it does it install the same meaning the underlayment?
No different underlayment and different system
Is it important to cover the top of the fascia board? I recently had the fascia replaced and the flashing in some spots doesn't cover the top of the fascia. I am afraid the wind will blow rain underneath and rot the wood. Thanks.
100%, in a normal structure a 2" flashing will cover the fascia board. However sometimes we install bigger drip edges depending on the framing. Recently we had a custom 6" drip edge installed.
Hi there?
Quick question ..
How big is the gap supposed to be ? Between the drip edge and fascia
1/4” ?? 1/2” ??
1/8 will suffice, you want enough to create a slight separation of possible and be able to slide the gutter up under the drip edge
@@RoofRepairSpecialist appreciate you taking the time to reply to my question 💯
How do you do an inside corner when installing the drip edge? Do you bend it outward?
I have a video specifically on that.
Do you keep a slight gap running the drip edge down the rake also?
Yes, it doesn’t hurt
Does the plywood overhang the facia board?
No, the plywood is and should be cut flush with the fascia
How does one make a outside corner with a gravel drip edge flashing
Similar concept, if it is for a flat roof system which it probably is just make sure to seal that corner well.
I thought the nails needed to be centered over the rafters.
If you don’t have fascia board that’s something you need to take into consideration
you dont put the drip edge on top of the underlayment, ice and watewr shield
Since we’re in so cal I don’t use ice and water shield at the eave
👍👍👌👌
Thank you
👍
Thanks
☑️
Best
Technically this is a gutter apron… not a drip edge. 😊
Are you sure. Google drip edge and that is what comes up.
That's actually c4 and a half rake edge not drip edge. Drip edge Is called F5. Sorry but that's not drip edge
Not sure what C4, F5 and those terms are, honestly never heard of them. In LA we call them Drip Edge, so does everyone else in this area.
Even in Canada we call it Drip Edge metal, someone call it eaves and we use to call Gable for sides or ridge
I don't even have a roof
lol
That is not a drip edge,
A drip edge has a pointed edge
If you mean a kick this does. The bottom of the drip edge has a 3/16 bend
That’s not a drip edge who’s is an F 5 or 8
That’s a rake edge a C 4
I think every region/ state calls it something different. In so cal if you call a supplier and ask for a rake edge or c4 they would have no clue what your talking about
I think every region/ state calls it something different. In so cal if you call a supplier and ask for a rake edge or c4 they would have no clue what your talking about
That’s not drip edge - it’s gutter apron.
I hear that all the time. We call it drip edge on the west coast, even suppliers do
That's what we call wide faced drip edge in the northeast. Gutter apron is a little bit larger and doesn't have the drip edge lip
He’s a joke has no idea what going on Pablo is doing everything F
Who's Pablo.