@@BlackSwan912 Yeah I believe Tommy when he said 8",, its the standard part I question. I don't shop at building supply stores in Boston but that looks like a specialty item to me.
I have a drip edge tight against the facia with a gutter. When it rains water comes down between the back of the gutter and the facia. I find this is only a problem on the downspout end of the house. I'm going to bend it out some to see of it fixes the problem. Thanks for the video.
Course I just had the roof replaced a few days ago. They installed drip edge where there was none prior. I can tell there's definitely no gap between the fascia and the drip edge. makes me wonder if I shouldn't pry it out a little.
Thanks for the video. Great demo. I'm reading articles and watching some videos on youtube to learn more about roofing and gutters. In this video Tom installed drip edge on the eave edge but most videos I've seen and articles I've read recommend installing gutter apron on the eave edges and drip edge on the rake edges. Can anyone with experience explain which one works better on eaves edge?
Yes, spider haven, yellow jacket nests, and even termites. I would never create such a gap there. Never create a gap. Overhang shingles an inch or so and put the drip edge flush to the facia. Homeowner should keep paint on facia in good condition and there will be no rot. Drip edge will kick out most of the water.
Home owner 1. should I brush, bleach, wait, and hose off the moss first? 2. Install the Zinc strip. 2. should I replace the facia first. 3. Shingle edge directly above drip edge. What should I do with the shingles (if)? Lacking in experience, but not in patience and basic intelligence.
Love the demonstrations. I just finished watching a DIY roofing video on another channel. That person mentioned "some folks say to leave a gap between the drip edge and the fascia board of approximately the width of your finger but I don't do it" Hmmm Now when I do my roof, I will be adding the gap, and I know why I'm adding the gap. Thank you.
You didn’t mention whether you should put your ice and water shield on top of the drip edge or let it run down on the sub facia and Tuckett over the facia
This is the age old question between roofers. Really just depends on who you ask. Some companies install the drip edge on top of the ice/water shield, and some install the drip edge first then ice/water on top. You’ll get a different answer every time
Was the drip edge Ansi/Spri or Miami-Dade tested for this type of "gap" installation method? I mean I would rather replace some fascia board in a few years then a costly blow off repair from a small wind storm.
It doesn't blow off in non hurricane winds. What Tommy showed is standard best practice in the NE United States, and would be practical anywhere else with similar climate. In Florida, I believe you guys put the bottom layer of underlayment OVER the drip edge, which means more likely to cause water damage on the roof edge, but more likely to survive a hurricane. Probably a smart trade off in Florida. Not a smart trade off in Boston, upstate NY, etc.
That's the point of testing the installation method with ANSI/SPRI or Miami-Dade to prove it works. If you prove it works then it's good but saying it's best practice is an opinion. I'm not saying this gap method would have a high rating, but this method would seam to have issues with wind driven rain.
@@thedieslexpress Best practice is an opinion, you're right. What I should have said is, has been best practice for 40 years. That means they're proven solutions, which are more reliable, overall, than new solutions. Codes are tested, pretty much by definition, only to a specific set of parameters. I'm certain that the florida codes are good in terms of protecting against hurricane winds. I'm equally certain that the chances of those winds hitting me, where I live, are so close to zero as to be unimportant. I'm also certain that building practices used here work great to protect against water damage that affects this climate.
@@tomsmith3045 residential building codes are for minimum safety requirements, and drip edge wouldn't fall under a building code. It would fall under the technical specification requirements. Also just because something has been done for 40 years doesn't mean it's the best practice or proven, it just means it could have been done wrong for 40 years. Plus, if this detail was ANSI/Spri tested doesn't mean it would past Miami-Dade tests. All it would mean is it would've been tested and rated per a strength pull off test which would translate to a wind rating. What do I know though, it's not like I worked for a metal edge roof manufacturer and gave webinars to architects and engineers for their continuing education credits. Good luck man!
@@thedieslexpress :) It's all good. If you've worked in engineering that long, you know that almost anytime - not always, but usually - when one thing is changed to make it better, there's an unforeseen consequence in the system somewhere else. Me, I've replaced a lot of fascia because it had tiny "drip edge" fastened right up to it, and OSB, because the drip edge was put on top of the felt.
How about simply using composite material for the fascia board - won't rot and no painting needed...no worries. I would still use a drip edge to protect the leading edge of the roof sheathing.
You simply cover it in aluminum fascia. That's the standard nowadays. This is called bullboard. This is old school, not done today except by old timers. Nowadays it would all be flush with 2 1/2-3" drip edge plumb with fascia, which could be composite (hardy or PVC, NOT composite board) but is most often done with aluminum fascia and a vinyl (or old timers still use aluminum too) soffit.
IRC Bldg code calls for metal drip minimum of 2” onto the roof sheathing and a a minimum of 1/4” below the edge of the roof sheathing. I specify a minimum 2”x2” metal drip edge with 3” overlaps, nailed every 10-12” ( staggered), only nail into the roof sheathing (never the fascia board. The gutters should be installed behind the drip edge (water is then channeled directly into the gutters) with nothing penetrating the leg of the drip edge. Starter shingles and field shingles are set with a 1/4” - 1/2” overhang.
I am currently trying to determine what is wrong after I paid for fascia/soffit/siding. The edges of my roof are curled up now all the way around on the rake and gutter sides. I’ve had one water leak. The company that did the work remove the drip edge installed the facia and soffit and then reinstalled the drip edge then gutters were replaced later with leaf screen. They sent a representative back and said the leaf screen is not letting the drip edge set properly but that doesn’t explain the rake sides. If anyone has any opinion on this it would be much appreciated.
How can I do something like this on existing roof that doesn't have drip edge or paper stick out far enough? We had wood damage due to termite on fascia, starter board etc.
I get why you want to extend the drip edge out a little. However that leave a gap up under the drip edge and the fascia board. I would be worried about bee's getting in there.. That gap all the way along your roof would a perfect spot for bees. Do you fill that gap with anything? Also I notice above my front door of my house there is a little water dripping out from behind the molding above my door. There is a 6ft piece of gutter along the roof right above my front door. With that is it possible I have a drip edge problem as shown in this video?
@@alvaroalmanza7110 so how would I fix this? I was going to take that short 6 ft length gutter off (not doing anything anyway.) And put up flashing like recommended in the video. Hopefully that will work.
Spray foam obviously. Duh. Or 54 tubes of silicone that only sticks to the facia. You'll need an electric double barrel Caulking gun, I recommend full silicone and the sploogeomatic 4000. Also only do the parts you can reach from an 8 foot ladder and then call professionals to come finish the parts you can't reach 8 years later.
Whats the difference between a drip edge and a gutter apron. Are drip edges for houses with no gutters? What if your facia board is clad in metal, will a drip edge work fine since its not hitting the wood but the metal instead. As well, if you have a roof already shingled, how would this be added after the fact. Not like you can extend the shingles
Drip edge helps with gutters too, by reducing drip down the fascia behind the gutter. I retrofitted drip edge on my 2010 shingled roof. I had to remove the first three rows of shingles, then re-nail them at the correct overhang. PITA. But I hired it done at the two-story end of the roof. They just bent the shingles up, destroying some of the grit. Then they nailed drip edge through the fascia, upside down in some areas! One year later I'm replacing most of those shingles and some drip edge.
Anyone (but especially this old house): a roofing buddy says he never installs flashing, because inevitably, it separates from the plywood over time, and becomes a source of water seepage. Thoughts?
This is a great tip, but what if you have Roof rat issues in your area. This little overhang will give those critters a chance to dig into your house. Any tips on how to do this over hang and still keep roof rats out?
It is a graet idea to overhanging drip edge 1/2 inch on facial board, but how could we prevent once the roofer need to come up to roof to fix something later and must use ladder to lean on drip edge, how would drip edge not to be damaged?
In Hurricane conditions shingles hanging over that much are sure to come off testing has been done keep your fascia board painted you won't have any problem
@thisoldhouse do you have any videos on hanging or adjusting rod and nut gutter hangers? We have gutter hangers attached to our sub roof, under the shingles and one of the gutters is pitched the wrong way. Can we adjust the rod and nut hangers to adjust pitch?
I watched this video for any tips on my hunting blind I am building. Thankfully, it is pitched front to back and also I have some scrap metal roof I am using that hangs over 6 inches. I am going to put drip edge on, but I think it will be fine.
I specifically asked my roofers industrial to do this and had it specified in the contract but the crew that arrived didn't speak English and they went ahead and did it the way they always done it in the past
I have seen roofers put that drip edge right against the facia board and on mine there is no facia and they put the drip edge against the rafters that protrude. What is proper way without facia board. With or without gutters..thks..jc
You don't need that 8". That stuff hangs way too far under shingle honestly, if not nailed down like crazy it could possibly cause first or second row of shingles to lift. Standard drip edge is like 2 1/2" hanging over fascia and like 3-4" under shingles. Plenty of room to get a nail downwards into fascia board and the rafters every 2'. And of course every 12-16" through roof deck too if rafters are 2' on center apart.
Great breakdown guys! Question, how important is the filler strip that you typically see between the drip edge and the facia? Tommy didn’t use one in his demo but I see them all the time when I do facia replacement jobs. They’re typically 5/4 x 1.5” strips.
Can you tell me how to fix my roof issue? When it rains I have water that wicks it's way backwards into the soffit and then runs down the outside wall of my house. And down the Windows where there is no wall! Ugh! The facial and soffit were installed last fall
I used to do roofing in the south and we would overhang the singles 1/2" I guess it wasn't as effective as a finger space between the facia boards but I question how long that dip edge will hold that space between. If you have to use a ladder to clean the gutters twice a year. Your going to bend that drip edge with the ladder.
Great video. The roofing company we used totally installed the drip edge wrong. I’m assuming that if a roofing company installs drip edge right up against the fascia, you should have them re-install the drip edge?
So really this proves that shingles should overhang drip edge 0.5 to .75 inches more than any of the other points? If the water isn't touching any of the drip edge, does that kinda nullify the point you're making with the gap?
I was thinking the same thing. He didn't do an example where he had the drip edge tight to the fascia and then just over hung the shingles. Seems like it would accomplish the same thing without that silly Gap
Insert 3/4" drip cap or deeper (used for exterior casings) upside down between the drip edge and the starter shingles. This an easy and effective solution. In fact this method also works to force water into gutters that previously stuck to fascias--insert the drip cap (proper side up) between the kick-out portion of the drip cap and fascia. If you're replacing your roof, ask the roofer to install rite-flow drip edging, which has a kick-out at the top for the drip edge, and not just at the bottom.
@@hmg8915 Actually since I have gutters and live in snow country I prefer the underlayment go over and down the fascia behind the drip to keep any backup out of the overhang. Then install the drip followed by flashing tape to seal the drip to the underlayment.
so WHAT IS THE BEST RECOMMENDED PRACTICE TO MOVE MY CURRENT DRIP EDGE OUT SOME? sHOULD i MOVE THE FIRST SINGLE OUT AN 1" - 1 1/2" ALSO? wILL THIS AFFECT ALL THE SINGLES MOVING UP? i CURRENTLY HAVE A REGULAR T100 ASPHALT SINGLE ON A 12% PITCHED A FRAM ROOF. SEVEN YEARS OLD AND MY FACIAS AND SHEATHING IS ROTTING FROM WATER DAMANGE!
I live in Dallas, Texas, and I’ve yet to see a house that does drip edges Tom’s way here. Could there be a climate reason for that, or are we simply all doing it wrong?
If the structure has gutters at the eave, it’s not really necessary to install the drip edge in this method, because the back end of the aluminum gutter is catching the water. Just need to have the drip edge with enough slack/space for the gutter installers to be able to slide the gutter behind the drip edge.
I'm not convinced about the finger gap , between drip edge and fascia. I like a gap, enough to easily slide the metal fascia into, but not enough to see the underside of the drip edge. . And i hang my starter strip an inch over the drip edge.
Gutter is an option, if your entry drips cold water down your back during a storm have it guttered, anything else is just a luxury. Lloyd , roofer of 35 years
@@lloydholm7523 With all due respect, regardless of what you or I do for a living, I stand by what I said. I've had a basement/crawlspace home in GA for 10 years and a slab foundation home in TX for 20. Yes, if you own a Texas slab foundation home and the yard is properly graded, lack of gutters can be tolerated (good luck if you invest in landscaping though!) You, of course, are entitled to your opinion.
@g quin Thank you so much for your precious time. YES you are right. I was talking about a general condition, not for a specific locations like entry or anything.
I believe it's capillary action you mean. Capillary refill is the time it takes for blood refill; for example to press hard to blanche a fingernail then release and see how long it takes for blood to refill (color returns). You can do this at the gumline too. This to assess for anemia, hemorrhages , etc etc. Capillary action is like taking a paper towel to a wet area and watching the moisture travel the paper towel. Surface tension is the bug that can "walk" on water; capillary action, surface tension... all attributed to the unique polarity of the water molecule.
STOCKBOY7254 two totally separate issues. the drip edge stops the water from running under the roof the gutters move the water away from the foundation
Every year I replace fascia boards and frieze boards because of this and I tell all my customers that the next time that they have their roof done to make sure that the drip edge is re-done like this. I have never once seen a roofing company do this correctly as they are in a big hurry to make money and they don't take the time to space the drip edge; it's just quicker for them to jamb the metal up against the fascia freeze board. Another thing that they do is to nail the starter shingles into the fascia.
No. A gutter would not solve the problem. I currently have a situation where there is no extended drip edge and the water is pouring down the fascia board behind our gutter. It’s causing foundation damage.
Why 99% of roofers don't install drip edge when putting new shingles? The few houses that have drip edge, it is close to the wall/facia/wood/metal and they don't leave a gap as you did. Is that ok as long as they leave shingles sticking out some? Roofers installing drip edge today and want to make sure do it the right way. Please advise.
They just dont install it because they dont think its worth the money which is wrong. If it was up to me i would be putting metal on every roof i do. shingles should be about 1 1/2" out from the sheething if there isnt any eave metal, if thereis metal, then half a inch past is sufficient. Make sure to nail your start as close to the edge of the sheething as you can aswell, not at the tops as it ruins the secondary purpose of the starter shingle. Leaving a gap isnt needed if you follow what i said, when you put the drip edge on just lay it loosely on the edge dont pinch it tight,
I would make the gap a little smaller for the drip edge. If you already have rotten fascia boards get Azek or PVC fascia board. Just don’t cut in very cold weather or it will shatter.
I just put up some new fascia boards. I attempted to purchase PVC but no suppliers in my state carry it. I called a couple of manufacturers and it was all special-order. They'd probably sell more of it if they could get it to the customers who wanted to purchase it without having to buy 15 houses-worth of the stuff.
The shingle over-hang should be about 7/8", or the first knuckle length of your pointer finger, past the drip edge. 3/8" as mentioned here may not be enough.
What they didnt show is how the water would shed if the drip edge was tight to the fascia AND shingles were 3/8" or more over the edge. Notice in the video that the water did not ever come in contact with the drip edge when shingles were hung over. This makes the gap between the fascia and drip edge irrelevant. It wouldn't matter if its tight or space 4", as long as the shingles are overhung 3/8" minimum the water would shed off the roof without contacting the face of the drip or the fascia. There are several reasons not to space drip metal. 1. As mentioned you create shelter for insects. Also invite other critters to find easy access into the eave soffit. Often the roof sheathing is short of the fascia and leaves a gap that rodents or birds can easily widen enough for access. 2. If the drip edge is spaced when a gutter is also in use it would highly increase the likelihood of water backups in gutter infiltrating the building. 3. If the drip edge is spaced when a gutter is also in use you are creating an area for condensation to be trapped which will, in time, damage the fascia and edge of roof sheathing. Even without a gutter condensation is likely. Landscape beds and mulch contain alot of moisture which will condensate under soffits as well as in void created by gapping drip edge. Don't do it......
I just had shingles put on my house and before that 15 years ago. In neither case did the roofers put the edge of the shingles 3/8" over the edge; not 1/4". not 1/8". Pretty much even with the edge is where they were placed. I guess I will have the same problem I had before of water dripping behind the gutters down the fascia and will deal with it myself by placing something, probably cut strips of vinyl siding, up behind the drip edge down into the gutter. Looking at various drip edge, it looks to me like some are poorly designed with top/front point being short and curved such that water, if not going out and falling off extended shingles as you suggest, run down and back the drip edge itself such that the water drips close to or even onto the fascia if the top rear edge of the gutter is not shoved up behind the drip edge or not completely tight against the fascia. Some drip edge however looks like the point extends out further and is formed tighter and water would drip off into the gutter and not run back.
Ah ha! I think Im onto something that you mention in #1 above. I noticed when I clean my gutters, I have a hard time getting my hand it the on corner of my house to put downspout strainer in. The drip edge interfers. Last winter Ive found out that there are signs of mice in the crawlspace behind this section of the house. Without yet moving some insulation to see, Im thinking this large gap leaves the access they need to get in. My roof deck is made up with 1x6's., an older home. Im sure there is a gap where the fascia and bottom edge of the deck meet. That ,along with the drip edge not being flush is making the passage.
@@bigpardner I have drip edge and gutters, my starter shingles are also flush with top of drip edge.... have one spot where some back seepage gets behind fascia that is metal covered.. maybe in summer I will run tar caulk all along top of drip edge ???
Im a rodent exterminator who installs drip edge all the time. When I install my drip edge I tend to leave zero gaps between the drip edge and fascia. I tend to screw my drip edge flashing into the fascia.The tiniest gap between drip edge and fascia can make access for a huge rodent infestation in that home in the future.
In the first example, he lined up the shingle and dripedge along the eave which is wrong. In the second example, he overhung the shingles by 1/4-1/2" pass the dripedge. That's the difference.
@@iamamish Excellent choice! The drip edge is under the shingles and usually under the felt underlayment...it's pretty rough replacing drip edge that is nailed in, without causing damage to the shingles..especially an (8" standard drip edge which I don't think exists unless you bend your own).and.if the shingles are brittle...you'll break every one of them when you lift up...better off just reroofing the whole house 00.02...thanks for the response, thought you might have a "do NOT do story". =oD
So.....the drip edge flashing is supposed to be installed with a 1/2 inch gap and NOT touch the facia board? Why have I never seen anyone install it as such even professional roofers?
Remember guys, 5 doctors 5 different opinions. Same in every business, 5 different opinions. Always follow the manufactures installation guidelines or whoever has authority over your work. For example: manufacture, City, State, Federal Codes, Building Inspector, Appointed Engineer, and etc. Have a great day.
Exactly how I told my roofers I wanted the drip edge, but instead, nailed it tight and no overhang of shingles at all. Also cut the corners instead of bending the metal. Icing on the cake, the city building inspector, approved their work except did fail the clipped corners and where they underlapped flashing instead of overlapping where roof met wall, and chimney among other complaints. So many shady contractors, drop off a truck of Hispanics that don't speak English and the nightmare begins. These archetectural shingles a nightmare too. Dripping water from night humidity every morning. What a con. Shady contractors and mfgs.
The more I inspect my roof, I see mistakes done the roofers. They put the wrong drip edge on my low slope roof causing wood rot, drip edge with a gravel stop flange on a low slope roof is like a speed hump or a dam to retain water (common sense). Funny thing is that my neighbor just had his low slope roof redone (Nov 2023) and the roofers did the same thing. Maybe for job security.
No one holds drip edge a finger width from far facia. Especially when you covering sub facia with metal. That would be " fake news" guys. Other than that cool video I will definitely show customers that, simple thing but I run into it allot.
Should always use a eavestroughs friendly drip edge. So it sits above the nail furrows or Hangers. Then it’s independent of whatever future work gets done. I’ve seen drip edge that comes down too far on the fascia ( like roof edge sold at lumber yards) then the eavestrough installer nails right through the roof edge. Not a good situation for many reasons.
I've watched you guys since I was young and I can't express how much you've all helped me through the years. Thank you!
Let me tell you something. This was a great video. It was absolutely wonderful, short, and informative,. Thank you. I got a lot out of this.
What keeps the metal facia from flapping in the wind?
hey Tommy....would the same procedure apply if you were installing gutters?
In the west coast we hang shingles 2 inch in to gutters, never had a issue
Standard 8" drip edge? let me see you pick that up at your local Lowes.
or homedepot
bLowes
Shhhh! That's how we get paid for fixing the "cheap" way...But' that's not an 8" drip edge, no such thing, ...it looks like a 3X2 or 3X3
godbluffvdgg review the beginning... definitely as he said
@@BlackSwan912 Yeah I believe Tommy when he said 8",, its the standard part I question. I don't shop at building supply stores in Boston but that looks like a specialty item to me.
I have a drip edge tight against the facia with a gutter. When it rains water comes down between the back of the gutter and the facia. I find this is only a problem on the downspout end of the house. I'm going to bend it out some to see of it fixes the problem. Thanks for the video.
Use gutter apron
Course I just had the roof replaced a few days ago. They installed drip edge where there was none prior. I can tell there's definitely no gap between the fascia and the drip edge. makes me wonder if I shouldn't pry it out a little.
Anymore most fascia boards are covered with aluminum fascia that goes under the drip edge. That's been common for decades.
Fantastic explanation
very helpful thanks. well done video
Could a Drip Apron be used also in your example.
Thanks for the video. Great demo. I'm reading articles and watching some videos on youtube to learn more about roofing and gutters. In this video Tom installed drip edge on the eave edge but most videos I've seen and articles I've read recommend installing gutter apron on the eave edges and drip edge on the rake edges. Can anyone with experience explain which one works better on eaves edge?
3/8" gap, does that create a problem with insects or bees? Why not extend the shingles 3/8" past the drip edge?
Yes, spider haven, yellow jacket nests, and even termites. I would never create such a gap there. Never create a gap. Overhang shingles an inch or so and put the drip edge flush to the facia. Homeowner should keep paint on facia in good condition and there will be no rot. Drip edge will kick out most of the water.
@@Robert111 was thinking that too, is that what u do ?
@@Eastbaypisces Yes, that is what I do.
Drip edge flush with fascia. Shingles overhang 3/4 inch. Normally we wrap fascia with trim coil on our jobs.
@@devincook3278 What do you gain by wrapping the fascia with trim coil if the drip edge is flush? Thx
Home owner
1. should I brush, bleach, wait, and hose off the moss first?
2. Install the Zinc strip.
2. should I replace the facia first.
3. Shingle edge directly above drip edge. What should I do with the shingles (if)?
Lacking in experience, but not in patience and basic intelligence.
Love the demonstrations. I just finished watching a DIY roofing video on another channel. That person mentioned "some folks say to leave a gap between the drip edge and the fascia board of approximately the width of your finger but I don't do it" Hmmm Now when I do my roof, I will be adding the gap, and I know why I'm adding the gap. Thank you.
Wasp: "I like what you've done with the place."
In the second scenario, would gutters solve the problem? Or would the water still wrap around the drip edge?
I have a problem with this scenario right now I am trying to fix. the water runs behind the gutter and drips down to the ground.
Great demo guys 👍
Why is nobody talking about the red flash at 1:00 (0:59)?
Well, you are now
So what is the drip edge for if the water should be running directly off the shingles away from the fascia?
The drip edge will support the shingles and prevent them from sagging and curling back to the fascia.
You didn’t mention whether you should put your ice and water shield on top of the drip edge or let it run down on the sub facia and Tuckett over the facia
This is the age old question between roofers. Really just depends on who you ask. Some companies install the drip edge on top of the ice/water shield, and some install the drip edge first then ice/water on top. You’ll get a different answer every time
I need to install 10 ft. of 6'" gutter above my sliding glass door. Is there a way to connect it on each end to existing 5" gutter?
The 1" spacing, where is the rain gutter nailed to the facia below the drip edge?
What happens in the winter ? Could the snow get up behind that gap ??
Was the drip edge Ansi/Spri or Miami-Dade tested for this type of "gap" installation method? I mean I would rather replace some fascia board in a few years then a costly blow off repair from a small wind storm.
It doesn't blow off in non hurricane winds. What Tommy showed is standard best practice in the NE United States, and would be practical anywhere else with similar climate. In Florida, I believe you guys put the bottom layer of underlayment OVER the drip edge, which means more likely to cause water damage on the roof edge, but more likely to survive a hurricane. Probably a smart trade off in Florida. Not a smart trade off in Boston, upstate NY, etc.
That's the point of testing the installation method with ANSI/SPRI or Miami-Dade to prove it works. If you prove it works then it's good but saying it's best practice is an opinion. I'm not saying this gap method would have a high rating, but this method would seam to have issues with wind driven rain.
@@thedieslexpress Best practice is an opinion, you're right. What I should have said is, has been best practice for 40 years. That means they're proven solutions, which are more reliable, overall, than new solutions. Codes are tested, pretty much by definition, only to a specific set of parameters. I'm certain that the florida codes are good in terms of protecting against hurricane winds. I'm equally certain that the chances of those winds hitting me, where I live, are so close to zero as to be unimportant. I'm also certain that building practices used here work great to protect against water damage that affects this climate.
@@tomsmith3045 residential building codes are for minimum safety requirements, and drip edge wouldn't fall under a building code. It would fall under the technical specification requirements. Also just because something has been done for 40 years doesn't mean it's the best practice or proven, it just means it could have been done wrong for 40 years. Plus, if this detail was ANSI/Spri tested doesn't mean it would past Miami-Dade tests. All it would mean is it would've been tested and rated per a strength pull off test which would translate to a wind rating. What do I know though, it's not like I worked for a metal edge roof manufacturer and gave webinars to architects and engineers for their continuing education credits. Good luck man!
@@thedieslexpress :) It's all good. If you've worked in engineering that long, you know that almost anytime - not always, but usually - when one thing is changed to make it better, there's an unforeseen consequence in the system somewhere else. Me, I've replaced a lot of fascia because it had tiny "drip edge" fastened right up to it, and OSB, because the drip edge was put on top of the felt.
How about simply using composite material for the fascia board - won't rot and no painting needed...no worries. I would still use a drip edge to protect the leading edge of the roof sheathing.
You simply cover it in aluminum fascia. That's the standard nowadays. This is called bullboard. This is old school, not done today except by old timers. Nowadays it would all be flush with 2 1/2-3" drip edge plumb with fascia, which could be composite (hardy or PVC, NOT composite board) but is most often done with aluminum fascia and a vinyl (or old timers still use aluminum too) soffit.
IRC Bldg code calls for metal drip minimum of 2” onto the roof sheathing and a a minimum of 1/4” below the edge of the roof sheathing. I specify a minimum 2”x2” metal drip edge with 3” overlaps, nailed every 10-12” ( staggered), only nail into the roof sheathing (never the fascia board. The gutters should be installed behind the drip edge (water is then channeled directly into the gutters) with nothing penetrating the leg of the drip edge. Starter shingles and field shingles are set with a 1/4” - 1/2” overhang.
Which IRC year and section are you referencing ?
I am currently trying to determine what is wrong after I paid for fascia/soffit/siding.
The edges of my roof are curled up now all the way around on the rake and gutter sides. I’ve had one water leak. The company that did the work remove the drip edge installed the facia and soffit and then reinstalled the drip edge then gutters were replaced later with leaf screen. They sent a representative back and said the leaf screen is not letting the drip edge set properly but that doesn’t explain the rake sides. If anyone has any opinion on this it would be much appreciated.
On two or three of my roof shingles, the leading edge is pointing upwards. How to fix this problem? Open to suggestions. TIA
How can I do something like this on existing roof that doesn't have drip edge or paper stick out far enough? We had wood damage due to termite on fascia, starter board etc.
Get a new roof by a professional. Tear off first layer and do it right
It seems drip edge may not necessary if you overhang your shingle with an appropriate distance from the edge of the roof?
How would a drip edge work on a 2nd layer roofing job? replace old? keep old, or add new over old edge?
I get why you want to extend the drip edge out a little. However that leave a gap up under the drip edge and the fascia board. I would be worried about bee's getting in there.. That gap all the way along your roof would a perfect spot for bees. Do you fill that gap with anything? Also I notice above my front door of my house there is a little water dripping out from behind the molding above my door. There is a 6ft piece of gutter along the roof right above my front door. With that is it possible I have a drip edge problem as shown in this video?
Yes, that's possible, i do windows and doors so i have experienced that before, with costumers.
@@alvaroalmanza7110 so how would I fix this? I was going to take that short 6 ft length gutter off (not doing anything anyway.) And put up flashing like recommended in the video. Hopefully that will work.
Run a 1x2 on top of the fascia, so the drip edge runs on top of it
Spray foam obviously. Duh. Or 54 tubes of silicone that only sticks to the facia. You'll need an electric double barrel Caulking gun, I recommend full silicone and the sploogeomatic 4000. Also only do the parts you can reach from an 8 foot ladder and then call professionals to come finish the parts you can't reach 8 years later.
@@TheLoopy989 spray foam duh? That will look like crap. I was hoping that was a joke. edit: it would take a lot of silicone your right
Whats the difference between a drip edge and a gutter apron. Are drip edges for houses with no gutters? What if your facia board is clad in metal, will a drip edge work fine since its not hitting the wood but the metal instead. As well, if you have a roof already shingled, how would this be added after the fact. Not like you can extend the shingles
Drip edge helps with gutters too, by reducing drip down the fascia behind the gutter. I retrofitted drip edge on my 2010 shingled roof. I had to remove the first three rows of shingles, then re-nail them at the correct overhang. PITA. But I hired it done at the two-story end of the roof. They just bent the shingles up, destroying some of the grit. Then they nailed drip edge through the fascia, upside down in some areas! One year later I'm replacing most of those shingles and some drip edge.
Can you guys please do a video on GFCI breakers.
Anyone (but especially this old house): a roofing buddy says he never installs flashing, because inevitably, it separates from the plywood over time, and becomes a source of water seepage. Thoughts?
From my experience and observation, yes but good luck getting roofers to agree with you on this. $$$
This is a great tip, but what if you have Roof rat issues in your area. This little overhang will give those critters a chance to dig into your house. Any tips on how to do this over hang and still keep roof rats out?
move to a nicer area
Don't let your Christmas lights installer lean his ladder into the delicate shingles that overhang the metal flashing.
It is a graet idea to overhanging drip edge 1/2 inch on facial board, but how could we prevent once the roofer need to come up to roof to fix something later and must use ladder to lean on drip edge, how would drip edge not to be damaged?
In Hurricane conditions shingles hanging over that much are sure to come off testing has been done keep your fascia board painted you won't have any problem
@thisoldhouse do you have any videos on hanging or adjusting rod and nut gutter hangers? We have gutter hangers attached to our sub roof, under the shingles and one of the gutters is pitched the wrong way. Can we adjust the rod and nut hangers to adjust pitch?
I watched this video for any tips on my hunting blind I am building. Thankfully, it is pitched front to back and also I have some scrap metal roof I am using that hangs over 6 inches. I am going to put drip edge on, but I think it will be fine.
Excellent. Thank you.
I specifically asked my roofers industrial to do this and had it specified in the contract but the crew that arrived didn't speak English and they went ahead and did it the way they always done it in the past
I have seen roofers put that drip edge right against the facia board and on mine there is no facia and they put the drip edge against the rafters that protrude. What is proper way without facia board. With or without gutters..thks..jc
Where can I find 8” drip edge? I’ll order, if needs be, I googled it, can’t seem to find it
You don't need that 8". That stuff hangs way too far under shingle honestly, if not nailed down like crazy it could possibly cause first or second row of shingles to lift. Standard drip edge is like 2 1/2" hanging over fascia and like 3-4" under shingles. Plenty of room to get a nail downwards into fascia board and the rafters every 2'. And of course every 12-16" through roof deck too if rafters are 2' on center apart.
At my house, they installed 1" x 3" wood in between drip edges and facia. So, heavy rain and strong wind could touch the facia board.
How to hang gutters over molding ?
Great breakdown guys! Question, how important is the filler strip that you typically see between the drip edge and the facia?
Tommy didn’t use one in his demo but I see them all the time when I do facia replacement jobs. They’re typically 5/4 x 1.5” strips.
Can you tell me how to fix my roof issue? When it rains I have water that wicks it's way backwards into the soffit and then runs down the outside wall of my house. And down the Windows where there is no wall! Ugh! The facial and soffit were installed last fall
I used to do roofing in the south and we would overhang the singles 1/2" I guess it wasn't as effective as a finger space between the facia boards but I question how long that dip edge will hold that space between. If you have to use a ladder to clean the gutters twice a year. Your going to bend that drip edge with the ladder.
Gutter should go behind drip edge in this type of application, so your ladder would be on the gutter.
Thank you for your video. Question: By law, how far the shingle hang over the drip-edge?
I think around 1/4 inch is standard practice.
Great video. The roofing company we used totally installed the drip edge wrong. I’m assuming that if a roofing company installs drip edge right up against the fascia, you should have them re-install the drip edge?
Re-installing the drip edge will require pulling out the edge of shingles.
Man what about that wind getting up under the drip edge and opening your roof like a sardine can?
Not enough surface area for wind to open your roof unless you didn't nail down your sheathing
So really this proves that shingles should overhang drip edge 0.5 to .75 inches more than any of the other points? If the water isn't touching any of the drip edge, does that kinda nullify the point you're making with the gap?
I was thinking the same thing. He didn't do an example where he had the drip edge tight to the fascia and then just over hung the shingles. Seems like it would accomplish the same thing without that silly Gap
looks like a good place for bee nests.
@68Camaro RS/SS people will complain for the sake of complaining.
Let's put it this way. Would you rather worry about bee's... Or many issues to come from a poor roofing job?
That’s the main argument I see against leaving a gap. That insects will build homes up in there.
thats my concern as well,and with my nephew highly allergic,that creates even more of a problem
68Camaro RS/SS it's called aluminum fascia
If my roof is already installed how do I extend the shingles
You will have to remove the first row of shingles and add an other row that hangs over.
That's what i did on my house and it looks good i even added the drip cap.
Use a shingle stretcher.
@@electricianron_New_Jersey He could also use a Henweigh too!
Insert 3/4" drip cap or deeper (used for exterior casings) upside down between the drip edge and the starter shingles. This an easy and effective solution. In fact this method also works to force water into gutters that previously stuck to fascias--insert the drip cap (proper side up) between the kick-out portion of the drip cap and fascia. If you're replacing your roof, ask the roofer to install rite-flow drip edging, which has a kick-out at the top for the drip edge, and not just at the bottom.
You should address whether the drip edge should be installed over the underlayment or should the drip edge be applied under the underlayment.
Under drip edge on rake. Over on front
@@hmg8915 Actually since I have gutters and live in snow country I prefer the underlayment go over and down the fascia behind the drip to keep any backup out of the overhang. Then install the drip followed by flashing tape to seal the drip to the underlayment.
so WHAT IS THE BEST RECOMMENDED PRACTICE TO MOVE MY CURRENT DRIP EDGE OUT SOME? sHOULD i MOVE THE FIRST SINGLE OUT AN 1" - 1 1/2" ALSO? wILL THIS AFFECT ALL THE SINGLES MOVING UP? i CURRENTLY HAVE A REGULAR T100 ASPHALT SINGLE ON A 12% PITCHED A FRAM ROOF. SEVEN YEARS OLD AND MY FACIAS AND SHEATHING IS ROTTING FROM WATER DAMANGE!
Is that standard through out the United States? Or should I ask if that is a standard code?
I'm in northern California.
I live in Dallas, Texas, and I’ve yet to see a house that does drip edges Tom’s way here. Could there be a climate reason for that, or are we simply all doing it wrong?
If the structure has gutters at the eave, it’s not really necessary to install the drip edge in this method, because the back end of the aluminum gutter is catching the water. Just need to have the drip edge with enough slack/space for the gutter installers to be able to slide the gutter behind the drip edge.
Hurricane winds. I don't think you want that shingle overhanging too much
I'm not convinced about the finger gap , between drip edge and fascia. I like a gap, enough to easily slide the metal fascia into, but not enough to see the underside of the drip edge. . And i hang my starter strip an inch over the drip edge.
Use 1 x 3 inch board as a gap between the drip=edge and facia.
If drip edge is provided, then is it necessary to provide roof gutter with downspouts?
Gutter is an option, if your entry drips cold water down your back during a storm have it guttered, anything else is just a luxury. Lloyd , roofer of 35 years
@@lloydholm7523 Unless you have a basement or crawl space; keeping rain water out of there is not really an option.
@@stevescherer6602 I water proof basements and crawl spaces for a living, how long have you been in the waterproofing business?
@@lloydholm7523 With all due respect, regardless of what you or I do for a living, I stand by what I said. I've had a basement/crawlspace home in GA for 10 years and a slab foundation home in TX for 20. Yes, if you own a Texas slab foundation home and the yard is properly graded, lack of gutters can be tolerated (good luck if you invest in landscaping though!) You, of course, are entitled to your opinion.
@g quin Thank you so much for your precious time. YES you are right. I was talking about a general condition, not for a specific locations like entry or anything.
Always learn something from you. Thanks!
Surface tension brings it over the edge, capiilary refill makes the water soak up against gravity.
I believe it's capillary action you mean. Capillary refill is the time it takes for blood refill; for example to press hard to blanche a fingernail then release and see how long it takes for blood to refill (color returns). You can do this at the gumline too. This to assess for anemia, hemorrhages , etc etc. Capillary action is like taking a paper towel to a wet area and watching the moisture travel the paper towel. Surface tension is the bug that can "walk" on water; capillary action, surface tension... all attributed to the unique polarity of the water molecule.
@@krissimacinniskelley4943 correct, I used the wrong one.
Is the drip edge better that gutters?
STOCKBOY7254 two totally separate issues.
the drip edge stops the water from running under the roof the gutters move the water away from the foundation
What is that red screen at 1:00
Benjamin ruggss idk but I seen it
It's called a flash frame and it is an editing mistake.
@@raziel4552 oh thank you
Every year I replace fascia boards and frieze boards because of this and I tell all my customers that the next time that they have their roof done to make sure that the drip edge is re-done like this. I have never once seen a roofing company do this correctly as they are in a big hurry to make money and they don't take the time to space the drip edge; it's just quicker for them to jamb the metal up against the fascia freeze board. Another thing that they do is to nail the starter shingles into the fascia.
You're right All the roofers I see love toncram the drip edge right against the fascia board
Wow, learn something new about safe house building, you guys are the best. Thank you for your insight.
1.5 overhang minimum problem solved. Your welcome from Vancouver
Agreed, but how's that work in high winds?
Would a gutter have taken care of the problem? I would like to see the same demonstration with a gutter.
No. A gutter would not solve the problem. I currently have a situation where there is no extended drip edge and the water is pouring down the fascia board behind our gutter. It’s causing foundation damage.
Why 99% of roofers don't install drip edge when putting new shingles?
The few houses that have drip edge, it is close to the wall/facia/wood/metal and they don't leave a gap as you did.
Is that ok as long as they leave shingles sticking out some?
Roofers installing drip edge today and want to make sure do it the right way.
Please advise.
They just dont install it because they dont think its worth the money which is wrong. If it was up to me i would be putting metal on every roof i do.
shingles should be about 1 1/2" out from the sheething if there isnt any eave metal, if thereis metal, then half a inch past is sufficient. Make sure to nail your start as close to the edge of the sheething as you can aswell, not at the tops as it ruins the secondary purpose of the starter shingle.
Leaving a gap isnt needed if you follow what i said, when you put the drip edge on just lay it loosely on the edge dont pinch it tight,
@@Josh-ww5kz Great, thanks.
Are you kidding? In 2006, they installed new roof with new drip-edge.
I would make the gap a little smaller for the drip edge. If you already have rotten fascia boards get Azek or PVC fascia board. Just don’t cut in very cold weather or it will shatter.
I just put up some new fascia boards. I attempted to purchase PVC but no suppliers in my state carry it. I called a couple of manufacturers and it was all special-order. They'd probably sell more of it if they could get it to the customers who wanted to purchase it without having to buy 15 houses-worth of the stuff.
Close your eyes and listen to the water...feel the urge.
The shingle over-hang should be about 7/8", or the first knuckle length of your pointer finger, past the drip edge. 3/8" as mentioned here may not be enough.
Thanks!
What they didnt show is how the water would shed if the drip edge was tight to the fascia AND shingles were 3/8" or more over the edge. Notice in the video that the water did not ever come in contact with the drip edge when shingles were hung over. This makes the gap between the fascia and drip edge irrelevant. It wouldn't matter if its tight or space 4", as long as the shingles are overhung 3/8" minimum the water would shed off the roof without contacting the face of the drip or the fascia.
There are several reasons not to space drip metal.
1. As mentioned you create shelter for insects. Also invite other critters to find easy access into the eave soffit. Often the roof sheathing is short of the fascia and leaves a gap that rodents or birds can easily widen enough for access.
2. If the drip edge is spaced when a gutter is also in use it would highly increase the likelihood of water backups in gutter infiltrating the building.
3. If the drip edge is spaced when a gutter is also in use you are creating an area for condensation to be trapped which will, in time, damage the fascia and edge of roof sheathing. Even without a gutter condensation is likely. Landscape beds and mulch contain alot of moisture which will condensate under soffits as well as in void created by gapping drip edge.
Don't do it......
I just had shingles put on my house and before that 15 years ago. In neither case did the roofers put the edge of the shingles 3/8" over the edge; not 1/4". not 1/8". Pretty much even with the edge is where they were placed. I guess I will have the same problem I had before of water dripping behind the gutters down the fascia and will deal with it myself by placing something, probably cut strips of vinyl siding, up behind the drip edge down into the gutter. Looking at various drip edge, it looks to me like some are poorly designed with top/front point being short and curved such that water, if not going out and falling off extended shingles as you suggest, run down and back the drip edge itself such that the water drips close to or even onto the fascia if the top rear edge of the gutter is not shoved up behind the drip edge or not completely tight against the fascia. Some drip edge however looks like the point extends out further and is formed tighter and water would drip off into the gutter and not run back.
Well what would you recommend?
Ah ha! I think Im onto something that you mention in #1 above. I noticed when I clean my gutters, I have a hard time getting my hand it the on corner of my house to put downspout strainer in. The drip edge interfers. Last winter Ive found out that there are signs of mice in the crawlspace behind this section of the house. Without yet moving some insulation to see, Im thinking this large gap leaves the access they need to get in. My roof deck is made up with 1x6's., an older home. Im sure there is a gap where the fascia and bottom edge of the deck meet. That ,along with the drip edge not being flush is making the passage.
@@terrythomas790 Our downspout strainers in the gutters clogged within months even with screens; I stopped using them.
@@bigpardner I have drip edge and gutters, my starter shingles are also flush with top of drip edge.... have one spot where some back seepage gets behind fascia that is metal covered.. maybe in summer I will run tar caulk all along top of drip edge ???
Just Awesome.
Awesome. So helpful.
Good video
thanks
Very interesting !
Im a rodent exterminator who installs drip edge all the time. When I install my drip edge I tend to leave zero gaps between the drip edge and fascia. I tend to screw my drip edge flashing into the fascia.The tiniest gap between drip edge and fascia can make access for a huge rodent infestation in that home in the future.
So basically you completely ruined the entire point of installing the drip edge in the first place 🤔
My problem is the shingles on my garage roof end at the edge of the fascia board. I wonder if a drip edge would fix that?
Very informative.
Nice guys!
Nice
In the first example, he lined up the shingle and dripedge along the eave which is wrong. In the second example, he overhung the shingles by 1/4-1/2" pass the dripedge. That's the difference.
Now I wanna check my mom's and my sister's houses to see if this was installed right or at all.
Lucky ladies!
This is genius. I'm going to rip out the gutters and install these.
..how did that go?
@@darryltaylor9916 it didn’t. I ended up moving and our new house has great gutters.
@@iamamish Excellent choice! The drip edge is under the shingles and usually under the felt underlayment...it's pretty rough replacing drip edge that is nailed in, without causing damage to the shingles..especially an (8" standard drip edge which I don't think exists unless you bend your own).and.if the shingles are brittle...you'll break every one of them when you lift up...better off just reroofing the whole house 00.02...thanks for the response, thought you might have a "do NOT do story". =oD
@@darryltaylor9916 haha yes what you're saying makes a lot of sense. Hopefully that would have become clear before I ended up doing Something Wrong...
So.....the drip edge flashing is supposed to be installed with a 1/2 inch gap and NOT touch the facia board?
Why have I never seen anyone install it as such even professional roofers?
Most roofers don't even use a drip edge at all when the fascia and rake boards are wrapped in aluminum. They just overhang the shingles and go away
I would assume this is a gutter-less installation. Best to install a gutter..
Won't help. Runs along fascia.
Can you guys please do a video on makeing ramps? thankyou and please keep the great content coming
So as long as the roof shingle protrudes outward enough, you don't need a drip edge?
Remember guys, 5 doctors 5 different opinions. Same in every business, 5 different opinions. Always follow the manufactures installation guidelines or whoever has authority over your work. For example: manufacture, City, State, Federal Codes, Building Inspector, Appointed Engineer, and etc.
Have a great day.
No one has any 8 in. The largest at Lowe’s and Home Depot is 4”
Exactly how I told my roofers I wanted the drip edge, but instead, nailed it tight and no overhang of shingles at all. Also cut the corners instead of bending the metal.
Icing on the cake, the city building inspector, approved their work except did fail the clipped corners and where they underlapped flashing instead of overlapping where roof met wall, and chimney among other complaints. So many shady contractors, drop off a truck of Hispanics that don't speak English and the nightmare begins.
These archetectural shingles a nightmare too. Dripping water from night humidity every morning. What a con. Shady contractors and mfgs.
The more I inspect my roof, I see mistakes done the roofers. They put the wrong drip edge on my low slope roof causing wood rot, drip edge with a gravel stop flange on a low slope roof is like a speed hump or a dam to retain water (common sense). Funny thing is that my neighbor just had his low slope roof redone (Nov 2023) and the roofers did the same thing. Maybe for job security.
No one holds drip edge a finger width from far facia. Especially when you covering sub facia with metal. That would be " fake news" guys. Other than that cool video I will definitely show customers that, simple thing but I run into it allot.
Nice. Now show me the gable sides.
Should always use a eavestroughs friendly drip edge. So it sits above the nail furrows or Hangers. Then it’s independent of whatever future work gets done.
I’ve seen drip edge that comes down too far on the fascia ( like roof edge sold at lumber yards) then the eavestrough installer nails right through the roof edge. Not a good situation for many reasons.