1932 ford
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2014
- 20140524185317 1
1932 ford #110 model A or B flathead race block crack repair by tatro machine
I used lock-n-stich crack repair pins.
I used both castmaster and tapered pins to fix the cracks
this model A block was run in a lakester at Bonneville without water. when that happened it over heated the block and cracked the one cylinder and intake port.
all these ford flathead 4 cylinder blocks from 1928-34 are about the same so this repair should work for them too. - Авто та транспорт
nice old Flathead its cool to see these engines getting rebuilt
How does cast iron get so hard? I don't what kinds of inserts you are running, but those teeth do not sound like they are cutting.
I love reading the comments. People that can do, do. People that cannot teach. I tend to see comments in here as teaching or atleast attempting to teach someone who obviously forgot more then most have done. Keep in mind people its nuts and bolts. And power and ground. If you cant see it that way you dont understand it.
sounds like a plan to me. if you can't see it in your mind you should just go into the house.
tatro
Stell is such a good material, yes it corodes if its low alloy, but for the cost of a fraction of bronze, brass or aluminium you haw a material that has most of all good properties.
That motor block is older than most of us, went thru fire and water but a skilled craftsman can bring it back to life, best regards
Круто что вы восстанавливаете старые блоки цилиндров. Когда видишь как старая вещь преобразуется и становится как новая, глаза радуются и улыбка натягивается на лице.
thanks but you better not read the other commenters.
tatro
Ебать ты лох
"Old time" cast iron can be an absolute bitch because sometimes you get "diamonds", impurities in the material that are so hard that the tool does not stand a chance especially on an interrupted cut.
The only way to do those jobs was on a surface grinder with segmented stones.
One time I had to align-bore the crank main bearing housings and got diamonds on the center housing. This was not a cast bearing type block but one of the first production motors to have bearing liners.
We cut it out, hit it with a pencil grinder and brazed it up and re-cut it.
Motor is probably still running somewhere.
one of my jobs at recieving was to pull the heads on all flat heads while the customer was there, wire brush and magnaflux for cracks, other wise the customer would clame his was perfect
Im sure you know more than me or you wouldn't set yourself up like this . So what kind of weld was that ? Back when I was healthy enough to work I was a Tool and die/Machinist in the South East 🇺🇸 and I got decent results from slower rpm and a little faster feed. But realize advancements to industry was a day late in our region. When I started cobalt was still being shaped into cutting tools on Lathes inserted carbide tools were kind of a luxury. Face mills/ Flycutters were the same inserted carbide tipped brazed bits used on Lathes . The Facemill tools on manual machines were alot smaller diameter and the inserts were basically flat with no chip breakers at all ..All respect to you for sharing your project ..
if you watch all the videos in this series you would have seen that carbide did not like this speed. i slowed it way down to cut this hard ass cast iron. a cbn cutter would have worked at these speeds. you don't know until you try. than you go try something else until it works.
tatro
Old video yes,,, but spin the cutter way slower and you are saving the tungsten.
Что в цилиндре сварка!? Это жесть!!!!
The videos played slightly in the wrong order but was interesting to see how the crack was repaired. Nice job, you got an engine that would have been scrapped working again.You learn something all the time, I have never seen the tapered screws before, they seem to do a good job. Why were the screw used instead of welding?
because cast iron does not play friendly with electric welding.
tatro
I've seen this done in the early 70's by a man who taught me to grind cranks and resize rods and do head work on a Peterson machine,and then to balance,this man LEONARD,also had a following in the OFFENHAUSER club,the guys would break and crack their 5000 dollar blocks and LEONARD would pin them back and machine them as per mr TATRO,this has been going on for decades,it works and it works better with larger oversized radiators when done,as PER LEONARD,no come back ratio at all they all worked if he repaired them,rip leonard
cutting oil not needed? just asking
Крепкий чугун раньше делали)
tirar no bloco não muda todo o projeto de compressão faz no cabeçote a junta compensa.
Nice
That's not how I would do it, but to each their own.
6.5 лет спустя!???
2020 лепим лукоссссссс
Смешно, когда те, кто умеют - делают, а те кто нет - пытаются учить и критиковать.
Самое смешное кто критикует - обосновывает доступно и они правы
Этот блок даже при производстве такой обработки не видел!!!😂
I like that fly cutter , did you make or buy it ?
i made it from a large face mill.
tatro
Yes of good
Many stupid comments down there.
Great job man!
thats ok, you gotta have fun.
tatro
Quite interesting. I wonder if it last long.. I think you could make welding on top of this job. P.s. interesting video series.
your nuts. why would you weld on top of a cold repair.
tatro
@@TatroMachine just because I don't trust cold repair technology :D . It's three components. Old block, new nut and glue. I think they all expand at different rates. Glue eventually will lost it's elastic properties and there will be micro gaps..
15 years and going on my top fuel single cylinder race bike. i loose the piston on most every run and the cylinder is not far behind but the repaired head keeps on going. big cracks but no leaks. and they said it could not be fixed so i did it myself. you can see it in those videos. it doesn't matter what you think is going to happen, it only matters what happens.
tatro
@@TatroMachine as i said. It's just my trust. And there isn't any. But I never did such thing. So I can't argue with you. Maybe in future I try it myself and only than I can say it's good or bad. At this point I don't trust it. However really good video I I learned something new. So thank you. Good luck
@@TatroMachine question; I'm familiar with stitch-lock, but why didn't you use the locking bit across the top of the crack? Not enough meat to drill into?
Мне казалось что блок покрывают специальной тонкой пленкой а потом врезеруют, а тут фреза проходит и даже маркер не сняла, значит блок весь кривой, во вторый лучше на чпу презеровать с центра на выход по кругутогда даже микро борозды будут служить для более плотного иикачественного соединения через прокладку.
For that being hard like that might be better off with a stone in stead of a fly cutter and coolant being ran on there might help also
i don't have that kind of tooling so i make do with what i have. in the next video i slowed things way down and got things to work allot better. you just have to figure out what works best for the application in front of you.
tatro
@@TatroMachine yeah i know i grew up on a dairy farm and six years navy and you learn the schooling to over come and adapt
was wondering about the diameter of the cutter you are usingThank you for the great videosKevin
i think it is around 10".
tatro
I’ve never seen a resurfacing tool like that for a mill (huge face mill thing), anyone know what it’s called?
Its what you think.
Because of The high number of teeth it should be used for Casting .
RushFred it must require some pretty low depth of cuts to not get knocked off center, looks like he was only using one insert in the tool and had to resharpen it half way through
Flycutter w/multiple inserts
Wondering why they’re not grinding the head, yes the mill is fast but you get a much better surface grinding and the hardened parts aren’t such a problem. Unless this is just a fast first pass. Watching this makes me cringe, not sounds I like to hear!
because i use the tools i have, not the tools i don't have. i am set-up for rebuilding harleys, not car motors. i do what i can.
tatro
Heads shouldn’t be a mirror finish you need a mill finish this way the head gasket holds better
@@nilton1044 the head gasket is going to hold regardless, due to the immense compression the head puts onto the gasket (via torquing the head bolts) and the gasket being bitten and gripped by the micro roughness of the head surface. If you look at a mirror finished head or bock under a microscope, you'll see there is still plenty of grit, roughness, and grip for the gasket to seat and compress into.
Heads and blocks both call for a certain RA/rS/RMS spec'd finishes (RA/rS/RMS specs = are specifications of how smooth something needs to be). These RA and Rs finishes are specified for heads and engine decks to get the absolute best performance results out of them possible. A lot of GM heads call for as low as an RA finish of 27!!! That's like a straight up mirrored finish damn near to normal onlookers and compared to normal finishes from rough fast passes and etc.
The reason heads and decks on a lot of engines call for a very smooth finish, is because the head gasket metal/fiber/etc end up being sandwiched with immense pressure. This compresses those metals/fibers/etc so much, tgat it actually compresses them into all the micro pores of the head and block. This is, in part, why you still have the color of the head gasket on your block and heads still, even after thorough cleaning and scraping of the surfaces, because it's literally embedded in the metals' micro surfaces. The smoothness and immense pressure of sandwiching the gasket also allows maximum sealing against maximum pressure that's trying to push through it via the combustion chambers and the cooling hammering through. The rougher the finish of the metals, the easier it is for coolant and combustion pressure to creep and leech past their intended origins because there's more room to slither and pass through. This would deteriorate the gasket too quick and you'd have blown head gaskets left and right on just NORMAL engines, let alone race engines with much higher compression and demand on them from high intensity pulls and whatnot during races.
It's a common misbelief that a rougher finish would be better, because our minds look at it from a macro perspective. But, the micro perspective of the physics and engineering behind it all, ends up actually resulting in the opposite for top performance. Just kinda the opposite of what our mind looks at as 'common sense' and tricks us into thinking rougher is better. (We've all made that mistake at least once or twice in refinishing heads, and learned the hard why smoother is generally better). 😂😂😂
@@strikeforcek9149
Thank you, I really liked your explanation and reasoning.
I'm an old school motorhead from the 50s & 60s.
Очень Херово!!!
Да пиздец! Я плакаль...
Блок мёртвый и хуже ему уже не будет, после этого ремонта он хоть немного ещё поработает. Конечно же так делать нельзя, но если есть время и желание оживить его, то почему бы и нет?
the only problem is that it does and did work.
tatro
Tatro Machine и он будет работать. Учитывая что степень сжатия у этого двигателя очень низкая и обороты небольшие, то некоторое время он ещё будет нормально работать.
I keep watching this and very surprised it didn't warp everything, along with cracking that spot.
Una maravilla
I just watched all the videos and I learned a lot. It was very interesting watching a seasoned vet in his craft.
I see you endured a lot of moron certified mouth mechanics. Im sorry you were exposed to that.
Keep rocking!!
still trying to teach the dumbasses but it is not working too good. the ones with open minds might get a clue and try something new and see how it works for themselfs.
tatro
камера плавающая =)))
You can’t learn stuff like this you can or you just watch
I don't thinkl the reason you build one of these is for the performance of it, unless it's the only engine allowed in the class you race in
you got it, antique racing uses antique motors. how would you feel if you got beat by one of these old turds.
tatro
уже в приемке?
блок в металл..Это чисто потренироваться фрезеровать...то да.
Mudo hi
М-да уж. 🤦♂️
Ive been a machinist 45 years.....slow that cutter down to at least half of that speed. Just saying
not if i had a cbn insert. its called testing. and now i now it doesn't work. alittle shappining of the insert and we are good to go again.
tatro
Мёртвому припарок🤣
you should be surface grinding it , not milling it
you use the tools you have and do the best you can with them. old gaskets probably would not work that good on a very smooth surface.
tatro
Why? The dedicated head/block resurfacing machine we have in our shop uses a milling setup, not grinding. The only issue I see here is he's spinning the cutter way too fast, our machine goes no faster than 120RPM and you don't have a dull cutter after one pass, even on cast iron. Also, we've never used cutting oil for resurfacing, you shouldn't need to.
На сухую, эти пластины плохо стоят!
Novice machinist for sure! Ya just can't make a silk purse out of a sows ear...
why not, i do it all the time. where do you think my record holding race bikes come from. made mostly from junk and broken parts.
tatro
If you've got an old Harley in So. Cal. This is your guy!!!
かなり歪みは残っている様で
Почему не камнем
Are you sure you just wouldn't be better off using this block to anchor the Queen Mary? Seems a bit far gone for my liking.
that is you. this customer was very happy to get his race motor back and for way less that what he had into this one.
tatro
Praque isu
Quedo para el orto.....
Что то сварка в цилиндре этт гильзовка в будущем факт. А фреза просто отвратно чешет.
Завеликі оберти .
Чугуняку в металлолом, ничего путного из неё не будет. А так погонять фрезу туда - сюда конечно можно!
Пару раз пройтись можно ситуацию исправить но то что гильза с блоком варена это уже жопа
Загильзуют все 4 и будет как новый! Ретро запчасти!
oque esse cara ta fazendo é um crime! Isso não é retifica e fresamento! O procedimento esta todo errado. Deveria primeiro desbastar a solda com uma ferramenta menor e com todos os insertos e só então usar uma ferramenta para dar um passe no topo e levar para a retifica plana ou de copo.
your problem is that you think your way is the only way. who welded anything? not me. with no hard ass spots from welding i am free to cut with my carbide and not grind.
tatro
Нахуя такие большие обороты. ?
I notice alotta "shithouse" machinists below, I would love to see their contributions were....plenty of big "balloons"
bush league
bush league maybe, but race running for sure.
tatro
Was ein Ami Murks
Говно а не фрезеровка
buy a new block , you have destroyed it now
damm, now i have to take the running motor apart and tell him it is destroyed. you do know what he is going to tell me what i can do. dumbass
tatro
Please enlighten us why it's destroyed oh wise and sage master....
Johan, fuck off. Its a race block, its not destroyed until you knock a hole through it.
@craigmancool this is true, most guys dont have the skill for that though.
and when all the bearings melt to the floor, all is good too. dumbass. watch all of what is going on before you make stubid comments. welding could be in obtion but not in this case. if you watched all the videos you would know this.
tatro
Ну и хрень.
в чем хрень ? ты дурачок сопливый сейчас делают хрень алюминиевые блоки а тогда цельный чугун ! не зря ты Петя тьфу
@@user-lc4jq7nw6p слышь чучело подзаборное, я не про чугунный блок говорю, а про тонкий шпиндель и про фрезу которую наверняка отжимает. Я сам делаю чугунные блоки на Весту и хрей, так что не лечи меня Кондон штопаный
Looks like your wasting time on a junk block just saying man.
Do i think that stich will hold? NO........
it did for another season of racing. after that, who knows. the fact is, that the stock block did not last, that is why i had to fix it.
tatro