1932 ford
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- Опубліковано 11 тра 2014
- 20140506210538 1
1932 ford #104 model A or B flathead race block crack repair by tatro machine
I used lock-n-stich crack repair pins.
I used both castmaster and tapered pins to fix the cracks
this model A block was run in a lakester at Bonneville without water. when that happened it over heated the block and cracked the one cylinder and intake port.
all these ford flathead 4 cylinder blocks from 1928-34 are about the same so this repair should work for them too. - Авто та транспорт
Cold stitching a perfectly valid way t effect a repair. The screws I have are slightly tapered and shear off at the right torque. The overlap ensures they can't unscrew. I put a slight countersink on the job to give me somewhere to plannish the screw into after it has sheared off. The engines I have done have passed pressure testing and are proving to be reliable in service. The oldest repair is now over thirty years old and still going strong! Keep up the great work, it's the end product that counts above anything else!
that's right. all the kids want to do is just go by a new part online and don't have a clue about much of anything.
tatro
Tatro Machine they missing out on the whole ethos of hot rodding. Taking older and worn out parts,putting time,effort and skill into them and building a unique car or bike from them.
Need to spend time in a junk yard with only basic hand tools and go create something good. Want to see if can still do it. Want to do a roof chop with only hack saw,files and hammers and lead load with recycled scrap lead. Ultimate test of a rodder?
not only do they not know what a junkyard is they have no clue what to do at one. but they do know how to push the comments buttons.
tatro
I'm 25 and I love going to the junkyard and walking around seeing what's hiding in vehicles. It's amazing what you find I've got good parts from there. Use nothing but hand tools and a mismatch tool box of sockets and bits I got on hand. I keep losing shit lol! Gotta stop at harbor freight and get some half decent replacements.
Yanked a set of heads off a old vortec 350 some weeke ago. It was a pain but worth it.
The kit is from Lock N Stitch in Turlock Ca. I lived there for many years and that place is busy all the time. This type of repair has been around for many decades and works very well as this guy is showing the right way to do it. You drill into each screw so they are locked in place. They will never move!
They love us in Turlock and we love them for that....⚡️
Really nice to see that some people take the time to repair it, instead of just throw it out and buy new like many people do today.
But its great to see your work, looks good.
Thanks for making the vid and sharing it...
at least someone understands why i show what i do.
tatro
IMA CURIUOSUS JUST ABOUT THE ENGINE RACING....KEKEKEEKEKEKEK
HE WILL NEVER SHOW THAT.
Cuántas medidas de motores tiene la pik up 63
You did an excellent job. Pinning and cold stitching are old school effective and durable repairs. Pay no attention to the ignorant. I had a Giant power iron head for my model T pinned and stitched. Good as new.
I have to say I have never seen or heard of this type of repair. I am amazed and impressed and added another tool to my arsenal. It's great to see how it was done back in the day. I have done alot of repairs people said couldn't be done only because it's all I could afford to do. People said you can't do that. I'd say watch me. I remember being about 8 years old and lost the spring clip that holds the master link on a bike chain. We got pop bottle caps and a chisel. Cut the caps into small squares and punched a hole in the center of them with a nail. Took a pair of players and snapped the pieces over the links and rode the rest of the summer without a problem. As for all the dumbasses saying the block is junk get a new one, weld it, ect... I'm sure they don't know which end of a screwdriver to use.
there you go, it can't be done until i prove it to myself. sounds like we think a like. prove it first to me and than i will belive it. until than, its possible.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Exactly. Until I prove it to myself. I like that. Just because it hasn't been done doesn't mean it can't be done.
I have a rare numbers matching 1942 Ford Flathead V-8 that had a crack. Because of the numbers we needed to save it. I believe the name of the plugs we used was Iron Tite. 23 years ago and still holding.
see, the old ways still work.
tatro
Excellent job. It is apparent from the comments below there are lots of UA-cam viewers with little knowledge in the fields of metallurgy and physics. Big thumbs up.
Real ol skool craftsman 100%. I enjoy your uploads thanks for sharing and taking the time.
Memories from the old days excellent video.
Thanks for posting. All your vids have something interesting in them.
You use special tapered pins and a special tapered reamer and tap. If done right it is very durable. The pins are cast iron so it should be a similar expansion. This is an old method that is used on more than automotive applications. I used to dip the pins in K+D block seal before installing them.
A friend bought a mid 70's camaro with a 6 cylinder the one with the cast in head intake. There all cracked you cant find a good one . I put 56 pins in it really! He used it as a bart car to leave in the city were he worked and get around when he rode the train to work. Lasted at least 15 years till he retired then he sold the car last I heard it still runs.
I would not do it to a normal customer to much risk but he was a friend and it was disclaimed clearly.
Did a Hudson hornet block once also and other's no failures but you need to know the tricks. Im semi retired now dont miss pinning cracks !
Sorry for the long comment on your channel Tatro
just goes to show you the stuff that worked long ago still works these days. everyone wants new stuff and thinks that is the only way to go. they really don't like it when you prove them wrong.
good to hear from a good old mechanic.
tatro
Bless you for passing on Real knowledge!
Grind the crack into a U shaped valley then heat the block with a Victor rose bud in the area to be welded until it is over 500 degrees and use Graphite Cast Iron Welding Rods. Watched my dad and grandfather both do stitching as this. But that is not the preferred method today.
I've restored several old tractors, and a few boats for friends over the years with cracked blocks and if you have a deep BBQ Pit you can heat the block in it also.
and than there goes the babbitt bearings. you just wasted the motor dumbass.
tatro
@@TatroMachine I've poured babbitt bearings in steel plants and made model a or t engines bearings . I'm not getting why it's wasted. I'd of welded it too .
that crack looks absolutely massive
Thank you for the video! I always appreciate seeing a seasoned individual work in their trade. Pay no attention to the Internet warriors from the 101st Keyboard Division. Their lack of discretion is equaled only by their inflated sense of self-importance.
you got that right.
tatro
That's a good repair. But as a old-timer welder/ machinist, I know the correct ,true, professional, old-fashioned and the best way to repair cast iron.
The recycling bin.... Cast iron is basically the devils metal to repair...
A irreplaceable head is well worth repairing. There is nothing to lose by trying.
I don't think he did a bad job. It's a unique technique for someone on a budget. And as they say, "If it works it's not stupid".
slight problem... this wont work....
sure it will. its done all the time. and does work.
just because you cant do it and make it work, doesnt mean others cant
@@dedasdude I guess you should tell that to the millions of mechanics, shop hands, farmers, and hot rodders who have used the same basic technique successfully for the past century or so, worldwide.
@@dedasdude slight problem. You don't know what you're talking about.
5 years latter and people still arguing over this method . My uncle 40 years ago did this and babbitt bearings for a living . Its been a good way to repair cracks way before i was even born.ive even done it about 5 times myself . Always worked and time tested . almost 1 million views.way to go tatro .
We use a similar method in Australia but our tap is tapered and so are the plugs. A plugs we called them and there was a bigger B plug rarely used from memory they were made by W&B. The plugs were made from cast iron the ones in this video look like steel ones i believe the cast ones would be better in a cast block. First started using them 45 years ago as an apprentice. When i was working in Papua New Guinea we used the same tapered system and the locals there were extremely hard on their diesel vehicles mainly toyotas and it was not uncommon to fit over 60 plugs to a cracked 6cyl diesel head on an almost daily basis. We even repaired caterpillar heads gm diesels whatever could be cooked we repaired it using the A plug system sfterwards we usually pressure tested them and it was rare to ever find a leak. Ps i won't say what the locals could do to a crankshaft in a diesel vehicle that has never had an oil change!
i used a mix of tappered plugs and the straight ones. the straight ones pull the two sides together and the tappered ones push them apart. you can pick and choose which type you wanted to use. the cast ones would have been better in the cylinder bore. either way, the old ways still work just fine.
tatro
Just a tip, a peening tool in an air hammer/chisel would be easier to get in the port easier if you have one available but you need one with a throttle screw to slow it down
Что сварка??? Гильзовка???? Не не слышал, очень прикольная комедия....👍👍👍🤣😂🤣😂
Tool maker 75 years excellent job exactly how it's supposed to be done.
You look about 40 in youre videos
Were you a tool maker in a past life too lol
@@whatman6199 No pictures of me anywhere friend, 96 now and still working in my shop, everyday at least 12 hours.
@@keithrichardsson9008 fair enough ..i apologise and wish you many more years my man
@@whatman6199 Thank you, and I might add your a man that is capable of apologizing, and that sir in itself is something very big. Not much of that on you tube. Hope you also have a wonderful future.
He's stitching the ENTIRE CRACK. Meaning .... BOTH SIDES AND THE TOP OF THE BLOCK. What weld on this planet penetrates that deep ? None. Repairing an already put together race flathead engine, sounds better than wadding her up and chunking in the trash. I'm guessing most of the negative comments ... the posters didn't watch until the end ? Nor did they watch the second video.
here is another viewer that watched the complete job and understands how things work and why it was done this way. hope you liked the series.
tatro
A tig weld with the right Bevel prepared would
Tatro Machine is it possible to grind out the crack and build it up with tig for this kind of repair
Wouldn't the bolts drive the crack open more
Exactly. I can't see how this is stitching that metal together or providing any structural support. As soon as it heats up it'll expand and leak or fall apart.
The casting is not falling into two pieces. The screws into the port stop the crack continuing to grow. Those along the line seal the split.
@@hampshirehippy those screws have a thread design that pulls the crack together
Нет, он не ремонтирует, а пытается очень сложным способом расколоть блок на 2 части!
Дмитрий Раднаев если что то это не блок а головка блока цилиндров!
@@user-jj6ee8on8h блок нижнеклапанный
Learned about this in auto school back in the 80's, but never watched anyone do it. I'm glad they taught it though because it came in very handy years later when I was at a shop and a Merc Comet came in with a couple broken bolts in the water pump. In drilling one out, I found it was originally too long and was bottomed against the cylinder, and I drilled through it extracting the broken bolt! Luckily it was only a 3/32 hole, and remembering this I partially tapped the cylinder and made a soft steel plug from a screw and carefully ran it into the cylinder, then peened it over, I used my borescope to make sure it wasn't going through into the path of the piston. It worked perfectly! As it was at the time the customer was planning on putting a V8 into the car anyway, so the fix wasn't going to lead to a long term problem as that engine was coming out in a few months.
you got to do what you got to do. you never know how most of your repairs last because you don't see them again. when you do it to your own crap you learn what works and what doesn't.
tatro
Great job. I used to do that at my mechanical shop. After installation we used to add some Turmeric to coolant to help sealing instead of market Wonder seal !
Yeah, we always added garlic and Szechuan peppercorns for lubrication too..
Why turmeric?? Serious question
Im not an engineer but ive saw guys use jb weld to fix these kind of cracks and it works really good. They grind a v into the crack and fill it with the jb and grind it down. Im not sure how long it would las though. Ive never heard much feed back that way. It does seal it though. Although i could imagine if the two metals expand at different rates with heat the seal might not be as stable.
No you're not an engineer are you?
Never seen this technique before ! Thanks you for sharing . I’m finding As I get older
“ the old ways are best “ 😅
or at least they still work as good as they ever did.
tatro
Ni ni
I guess it's 7 years too late to ask why you didn't use a starter tap. But if the idea is to lock the thread in the hole, then maybe it's not desirable to have even a started thread down there.
Thank you for sharing this interesting process.
what is a starter tap. all taps have starting threads on them, even the ones i used.
tatro
Tatro Machine you asked:
“what is a starter tap. all taps have starting threads on them, even the ones i used.”
I trust you’re joking. A set of taps contains three taps known as: Starting, Intermediate and Finishing or Plug. They’ve been around for over 100 years. I used them when I started my aero engineering apprenticeship in 1974, but I first used them in school metalwork class.
You apparently used a Plug, which is difficult to get started.
The first Starter tap is most tapered with virtually no thread on the fist part, which is inserted into the hole. This helps to align the tap correctly and prevent a mashed start and crooked thread. This is less useful when tapping short blind holes, but fine for through holes.
I hope this helps.
I like better tapered screws, expand for itself when turn into the tread, 35 years exp. From My old dad. Good job also
Everyone: “Drilling hole”
Machinists: “Cutting”
😝
I think I figured out how it is holding the crack together without splitting it like wooden end grains. The screws aren't drilled straight down into the crack but at an angle away from the crack channel, thus the threads help provide some lateral force to support the crack just like Metalock keys. I don't think it's as strong as following the correct procedure, but if it's enough, it's enough.
this is a correct procedure. that is why this stuff works.
if you look at the two types of screws i used you can see how and what they do. this was done by the manufactures recommendations. one type spreads and one type pulls in. i angled drilled so that i would not drill out the other screws that i just got done installing. all of this was stated in the videos.
tatro
A 70 year old guy showed me that back in 1970., you're the first one I've seen besides me use that method of crack repair since.
This is a proper repair. You can gix this another way as well and that would be beveling the crack and welding it. This way works essentially the same except hes removing be drilling and tapping it. It looks good to me and if it work, it works
Beveling won't work on cast iron you have to cut it out like a quarter inch wide or put another piece in while it's preheated very hot . Not worth the effort . Works great on the side of engine blocks between freze plugs or something with no stresses .
This guy knows what he is doing.
Woah you put that tap in like a boss it takes me atleast 5 minutes to make sure I get mine exactly where I want them
Probably because you’re a kid and he’s got way more years and experience than you.
@@ivannieto6150 nah its cause I triple check my double check cause I'm always paranoid about last moment shifts that you dont notice cause your focusing
@@cameronvandygriff7048 yeah ok ...
@@ivannieto6150 dude I literally have been so many different kinds of mechanic its not funny I can run a tap and thread a tapped hole I just check a million times cause you can't re tap it its fucked if you dont get it right the first time so I like to make very sure I get it right everytime it might take me longer to drop it in but I aint never fucked anything up if your calling me a kid cause of my profile pic that picture is almost 10 years old so yeh I was a kid then bout 13 14 or 15
@@cameronvandygriff7048 👍🏾
Beautiful repair, you seem to really know what you're doing!
don't read the other commenters.
tatro
Tatro Machine Haha oh I already did, all I see is a bunch of "know-it-all"s
Belo trabalho !! Aqui no Brasil essa técnica se chama costura !
Lol
I am now retired , I used this system it is very good , but this type of repair I would braze the block and sleeve that cylinder
no room for a sleeve and it has cast in babbit bearings. that was $1500 to do those bearings. we had to save them.
tatro
Actually I never knew a cylinder wall crack could be repaired this way. Thank you!
er, valve port I mean.
Ради русских комментариев решил пролистать все))) Задорнов, ты был прав!!!
Ага, чтоб эти болты потом у цилиндр отлетели)
Так даже канализационные трубы не чинят
Very interesting. Never seen that done
Excelente trabalho! Porém, ficaria bem melhor o acabamento utilizando a fresadora. É só uma opinião.
Sim. Parece que ele confiou na habilidade manual.
E eu não encontrei a sequência deste vídeo.
I told Derek about your channel. Thank you for the response. Doug
Nice job, another oldtimer engine saved.
делается фаска, прогревается резаком, и заваривается полуавтоматом, потом в печь для медленного остывания.
Came across this and learned something new. I about crapped! I was under the impression this was a big no no. Thanks for sharing
Beautiful work! I used to work with a Tatro in Illinois
no you didn't.
tatro
Задорнова вспомните и сразу всё станет ясно!
Ну скажем не все они тупые, но как говорится в семье не без..........
@@user-ug9un6fd1u Извиняюсь поторопился, продолжение следует. Как говорится (Недоделанную работу дуракам не показывают).
Задорнов тот ещё конь постоянно что словоблудил.....
Tattoo good to hear your voice, you do awesome work! Hi from Team McLeish
hi,
this is the motor that dan ran in the bead bandits tanker or roadster a very years back after i fixed it.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Sick fix my guy.
Первый раз такую херню вижу, видимо автор раньше бочки деревянные чинил🤣
Трещина то осталась,обычно вертикально сверлят
Fascinating process! I’ve never seen this done before. Question: I can understand how overlapping the screws prevents them from turning but what about the last screw? Does that just depend on doing a good job peening?
the sealer helps too.
tatro
Yikes...I have done the top crack repair many years ago in a couple of flathead jeep motors, but I have never seen this done in the valve seat area. Interesting.
if its broke, i fix it. too nice of a motor to toss it for just for a little crack.
tatro
So glad I’m not the only one who noticed this is the valve port I see all these people talking about how the piston is gonna hit those pins when that’s not even a cylinder which is obvious if they’d just look at his tools or the bolt hole or his fingers relative to the size
@@cameronvandygriff7048 it does go into the cylinder, but can't he just resleeve it
@@Neildo430ci theres still the issue of the crack it has to be repaired regardless if you can fix everything with one process why do two or three
I used a seat cutter and machined a port oversize and made my own sleeve out of aluminum bar stock then machined for a new hardened seat and peened the new seat in to hold it all in there that old hercules six is still running in an old tug boat
Я ожидал чего-то тааакого...
А оказалось-бред пьяного ежа😅🤣😂
Руки надо оторвать,таким работникам.
perfect job
Muggy weld works,but this way is waaaaaayyyyy better
Всё работает, вон он в следующем ролике растачивает. Просто зубило надо было по радиусу клапана сточить и удобно было бы болты плющить
What happens when it goes through many heat cycles of expansion and contraction 😟😕
Wouldn’t Tig welding it and resurfacing+porting be a better fix?
Just a Curious question
no, have you ever tried tig welding cast iron before. not good. the screws do work and hold up well. my nitro race bike has been repaired with these type screws for many years now.
tatro
Bin Froh das Qualität und Sicherheit auf Deutschland groß geschrieben wird. Beste Made in Germany
А что так можно было что ли?! И покажите пожалуйсто соединение двух досок с помощью электросварки.
Если деревянными электродами приварить
They were still teaching this in 2001. It's like engine 101 for getting your ASE certificate
спасибо за видео, посмеялся
мне кажется что электродной сваркой было бы намного лучше ))))
Процесс клёпки можно ускорить и улучшить при помощи перфоратора .
Serious question. Why would you do this instead of drilling the ends of the crack and welding it shut? Not trying to be a smartass, I'm really just curious. I've never had the misfortune of having to repair a block before.
cast-iron is extremely hard to weld. it get very hard when you weld it. that is it gets so hard a grinder does not what to cut it. next is that is is so hard it cracks very badly because it does not flex at all. it only takes a drop in temp of a few hundred degrees and it recracks. drilling holes does nothing to stop cracks. stopping the stress does.
tatro
Среди американцев оказывается тоже есть те кто фигней страдают..
Проще найти другую гбц или блок🤣🤣
@@bmb990 Да херня, что там пара другая лимонов, Вы хоть знаете сколько стоит чугунный блок для судового дизеля.
@Петров Дмитрий Алексеевич Это для видео было сделано, на моей практике так восстановили не один восьмицилиндровый дизель с наддувом судовой. Спецы были из Питера. Цен не помню но блок стоил приблизительно как 3х комнатная квартира в центре с ремонтом и мебелью.
@Петров Дмитрий Алексеевич Причём здесь бракоделы, дизель разбирается и все детали моются, потом проходят дефектовку, делает её инженер обученный, и если на блоке находит трещины то он идёт на переплавку. Данная технология позволяет эксплуатировать чугунные блоки с трещинами но не все.
@Петров Дмитрий Алексеевич Пять лет работал механиком цеха по капитальному ремонту судовых дизелей, занимался обкаткой их после капитального ремонта.
if it works it works but I prefer to preheat, weld, post heat and machine.
you must have some big welding equipment.
tatro
It's called "cold process."
Using a tig and cutting everything would be the alternative.
once this heats up bad things happen.
True. This kind of repair more indicated for structural pieces. If there is heat and friction the difference in hardness and thermal expansion will cause a lot of trouble.
If you do that to a cracked engine cylinder, pistons rings will explode in no time... At best you will get a lot of blowby.
Very nice. If it works it works!
The correct repair is welding over the crack and remachining. Peening does not join material even if it looks like it's joined, but if it works, I'll still applaud you I guess.
Actually, this method is better. Drilling, tapping, lacing in the repair bolts with ceramic locker and then peening is stronger than welding it. It does less damage to the surrounding metal in terms of changing the metal properties. Not saying proper welding technique won't work. Just saying this process is better.
Excellent video. I am repairing two vortec heads using this same technique. Time consuming but not really difficult. I have a question and perhaps it is covered somewhere in your videos and I may have just missed it. When you completed the stitching on the cylinder did you simply rebore the cylinder or did you sleeve it? Was curious as to how the cutters on the cylinder bore reacted with the pins. Seems to me it would have made sense to sleeve that cylinder. Either way understand it had to be pinned regardless to keep that crack from spreading further. Great video!
that was all covered in the later videos. sleeving is best but that was not an option on this one.
tatro
U sir r an old world Craftsman bravo
Interesting method, never seen a crack filled like that before. Was there a reason you didn't just drill the ends, vee it out, and weld it?
Never mind just noticed your comment that it's a babbit bearing motor...
I have heard they have new ways of welding cast iron that really work using a tig with a special type of wire
yea, dream on. they have been saying that ever since they started electric welding. gas welding is the only way to weld cast iron.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Hi Sir. Wouldn’t the Muggyweld 77 electrode work here at all ?
Never seen this before. I could of welded this but it would take a lot more prepwork and more expensive. And need machined after .
Por que no suelda, y ya.??
Nice job
Good job man
Slow down your RPM’s when drilling. You’ll chew up bits easy with them screaming that fast.
And how about breaking the chip? when you're tapping
In cast iron ? With a hand held drill ? Lol
@@joepiet breaking the chip in cast iron ? Lol
Hi Tatro. Great video. Very creative thinking to get fire back in that motor. Quick question. Why didn’t you grind out the crack and weld it up instead of using the plug??
have you ever tried welding cast iron? its a crap shoot at best.
tatro
Tatro Machine Yeah that’s what I figured. Just didn’t know if there was another reason to use these inserts.
Todo está bien eso que hiciste es un empernado o soldadura mecánica pero el acabado en el asiento es importante que hiciste insertaste asiento o nada más lo rectificaste un saludo de lztacalco cd de México
Ive used something like that except the taps and pins were tapered
i used both tappered and the shark tooth type screws in this repair. lock-n-stitch told me what and where to use both types.
tatro
What makes this better then grinding down the crack and welding it.
no need to redo all the babbitt bearings.
tatro
Лучше паяльникам👍
Аргоном заварить не вариант?
Думаю что так что говном залепить одно и тоже
Там же надо убрать все до корня трещины потом несколько подходов сделать и еще плоскость потом фрезеровать. Ошибка - и покосоебит. Неверная присадка - будет вместо одной трещины много )) Короч это не для него ))) так то оно походит.. если трещина под нагрузкой дальше не пойдет при нагреве )) ну а пойдет так пойдет... Это же чугун, а не современные стаканчики с никосилом из переработки банок кока колы. пару болтов им не помеха )))
Yes soudure a froid a point de chenete plusieurs trous percé et taraudé les après les autres tou au long de la fissure insère des vise coupé ensuite martelé magnifique soudure sur des blocs moteurs en fontes
Got a question, now that the repair has been made, can a new casting be made from this original block?
you got a 100k to make the molds and have them casted.
tatro
Ask in Mandarin, the Chinese are good at that sort of thing.
Nice video. Question, why couldn't you just drill the end of the crack, trench the crack then weld it up? Heat issues?
read the my other comments. too tied to say it for the tenth plus time.
tatro
Just curious if you’ve ever put the motor on a dyno and if so how much power did it make
BLAST
I don't understand why putting a screw in a crack can repair it 🤔
It prevents the pressure entering the crack and expanding it further.
I agree, the valve seat has expanded.
Судя по всему это выпуск и он будит пропускать 😆😅
I used to use an air hammer and modified inserts for peening. Easy to hold the peening head and get it right where you want it. 😉
Doubters, Google "Lock'n'Stitch". You'll see that it is a valid and proven method of repairing cracks in cast iron. Welding doesn't work because of contraction of the metal on cooling, which, in cast iron, with very little elasticity, only cracks worse. Preheating the whole block in an oven MAY ensure no cracking on cooling but would require re-grinding of all surfaces to restore 'true', line boring of the main bearings, cam bore, etc. Not worth it. As for the valve seat, the old one can be cut out and replaced with a new one.
all true except for the valve seat part. there is no valve seat, that is the block. if you watched me drilling the holes in the valve seat are you would see that with all the porting the block is very thin in this area. parts of this is less than .050 and most is under .100 thick. these leaves no room for a valve seat insert. the only option was to do what i did and use the pins as the valve seat.
tatro
I would weld that ease with diffent metal and local heat treatment and then roll the dice ... because i have almost no patience.
But i would PMI the block and cylider area first , then select the best filler metal and localized heat treatment .
sure sounds nice but that is not likely to work as you stated and it would have killed all the babbit bearings in the block. my way worked and did not hurt anything around it.
tatro
I like using the lock-stitch for crack repairs.
it works good in spite of what the naysayers keep saying.
tatro
@@TatroMachine They work great!
Why not weld it and then smooth it back out? How do these bolts help? Ive seen this process before but I never asked why it's done.
the screws do less damage than welding does to the block and still get the job done.
tatro
Theres alot of old willys 134 owners need to learn this....
Blocks are very similar... id have guessed it came out of a willys knight....