1932 ford
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 тра 2014
- 20140524202643
1932 ford #113 model A or B flathead race block crack repair by tatro machine
I used lock-n-stich crack repair pins.
I used both castmaster and tapered pins to fix the cracks
this model A block was run in a lakester at Bonneville without water. when that happened it over heated the block and cracked the one cylinder and intake port.
all these ford flathead 4 cylinder blocks from 1928-34 are about the same so this repair should work for them too. - Авто та транспорт
I use to do that stuff. Worked over 20 years at a machine shop. Did pinning crack repairs. Rebuilt heads and blocks. Built and raced stock cars for over 8 years.
What a trip down memory lane!! I used to do this to military Jeep engine blocks by the score! Apparently 11 out of 10 of them had been overheated and the two center exhaust valve seats, the top of the deck and the cylinders were all cracked ..... Pin the cracks, put in seats and sleeves and she was good for the next 50 years!! Great work!!
So really great to see machining done like this, instead of all that cnc
Nice work😊
Some people can't understand that sometimes, it's the challenge that is interesting. Can I repair it, not should I. Well done, I have always wanted to run the 130 club at Bonneville.
how true.
tatro
Nice job
Total respect
Ao the give away is the fact a motor with a crack in the block will demonstrate a chronic problem with over heating? Or water in the oil which has a milky looking consistency to it? Thanks for a GREAT VIDEO...VERY EDUCATIONAL..
or most likely to much nitro. probable got lean after a three mile pull at bonneville.
tatro
Que gran paciencia amigo...quedó excelente gracias
No doubt about it, you know your stuff bud..A quick run through with a bore hone and your done eh?.. thanks for the video.. Ivor from the UK
it takes more than that if you want a properly honed hole. it takes time to get things all squared up and sized correctly.
tatro
Lagun, very nice machine
This was fascinating to watch.
Fucking love engineering...
for a more reliable repair, I would install a sleeve on this cylinder and a press in seat on this valve
Yeah, but it would take cutting a very large bore out then pressing in the sleeve...that's ALOT of work...but yeah...I agree it would be the best/strongest repair for sure (well depending if there is enough meat in the cylinder wall to be able to cut out to sleeve it, the way that block is built...I'm not sure there is enough there to machine out.
just run it as smaller bore and add blower and twin turbo, and heck even Nitrous Oxide for good measure. :D No wait it's a flathead, never mind...
@craigmancool If you could TIG weld and if you had a machine shop.
@craigmancool Hey man, sure. I've got a spaceship.
You should sleeve it because welding creates hard spots
I have minimal machining experience but I was still surprised at how fast you ran that cutter. s there no risk of it bending out slightly in other words, flexing or if it does then it doesn't matter because it flexes the same amount the entire circumference so everything cancels out?
the speed doesn't bother me at all. the problem is that it didn't cut so i had to slow it way down.
tatro
Why are you not cutting the bore?
Surely, with an out of round bore, a re-bore is in order?
Wouldn’t the steel plugs expand at a different rate to the original casting when at running temperature?
Michael Naisbitt I think the plugs are actually a cast iron of course it’s 80 year newer cast iron but with how unevenly heat treated and hardened old cast iron blocks are I’m sure it’s no worse than wall between 2 and 3 piston
is there something special about the drill press used for this kind of work? or is it just a matter of having a really solid/0 play press?
its called a milling machine. it cuts sideways and vertical. drill press only cut down.
tatro
am I wrong in assuming the horizontal movement is only for getting it lined up perfectly in the middle?
that's a daring repair... did it held??
yes it did work for two races. everything got sold off after the owner died so i don't know what has happened since.
tatro
Another block has to be cheaper must be for to special car with provenance. Just drop and LS in it.
what part of a race block did you not understand. this is an antique racing motor and can not be up dated to a stupide ls motor. that would run in the newer classes. this motor has had a ton of race work done to it already, that is why is is being repaired so that it can be raced again. these repairs worked and it was raced again in the scta.
tatro
Pretty Damn Cool Man!!
Очень интересно, дёшево и сердито. Золотые руки!
Is a sleeve out of the question?
yes, read the other comments.
tatro
UA-cam video stabilization is making me sick lol
What is module?
what is the bore and stroke on that machine.
as i recall it was around 4.030 on the bore.
tatro
I run cast iron at 700SF with cemented carbide inserts. 700 X 3.82 / 4.0(Assuming a 4.0 bore)=668.5 RPM... 2400 RPM is WAY too fast... that's pushing 2500SF!
maybe that is why i slowed it way down after that cut. i think i was around your 700 rpm but i was using a 10" cutter not a 4" cutter. the bit was fine after that cut.
tatro
Sleeve it...done this many times.
not on a bigbore race motor dumbass. the next .080 is air, sleeve that. this isn't some dumbass small bore street motor.
tatro
This video gave me vertigo. Good video. But it gave me vertigo lol
After 47 years involved with stuff like this, I wouldn't put money on it been successful in the long term
only time will tell on any type repairs. this is a proven system for repairing cracks and has a very good track record for getting the job done and lasting.
tatro
@@TatroMachine ah I just realised you are the motor cycle man. You are a great dude and famous in the UK
didn't the arms give it away.
tatro
It seems like a sleeve is more reliable!
They also get "out of round" when you distort the block by drilling, tapping and "pinning" it to repair a crack that could have been eliminated or at least most of it eliminated by sleeving that hole. Or a GOOD block could have been sourced. Complete long-block remanufactured Ford flat-four engines are available for around $3500 and I just saw a block and flywheel for a '30
"A" engine on eBay for $100.
Old doesn't automatically mean "rare" or "valuable" and selling a customer a ridiculously expensive "repair" and "rebuild" process just because he has money and asks you to doesn't make that "customer service"
here we go again. another know it all dumbass that doesn't listen to what is going on in the videos.
this is a big bore nitro landspeed race motor, not some dumbass slow as hell street motor that no one gives a crap about whether it is stock or not.
you can not sleeve a big bore cylinder that is only .080-.100 thick.
the cylinder is out of round because it went into detonation at bonneville when the water hose came off at half track and had a couple more miles to go at full song.
now for scta racing you must use stock oem parts, not aftermarket good new stuff. as for my labor, that was basically free plus the parts. it was for an old club member and he had this motor for probably over 50 years at least. it was an early poured babbitt motor too.
now for the real point of my videos. it is to show how to fix things, not go buy new crap. if you don't understand that, then don't watch my videos. they are not meant for you.
by the way, the motor repairs worked great and the race motor made more runs down the track again like any good race motor should.
tatro
i liked how you repaired it without welding sort of looked like welding after you peened it
el tornillo va a empezar a salirse y va a dañar a el piston
You have the settings for the video wrong . No video stability
that is built in dumdass. i never clained to know a damm thing so get over it.
tatro
tatro
stop zooming in and out please
This video warping is an lsd trip in a metal shop....
Rowery możesz naprawiać
Boat anchor time
what is the charge for this crack...how many hours
free, i did it for an old racer friend before he died. he raced when these things were basically new.
tatro
am I high?
Porzondny fachowiec.
This may sound really stewpid as i just walked into the middle of both these videos and am wondering which is part one and 2, is this part 2 and 1 being this video ua-cam.com/video/cuEBwYWs9rE/v-deo.html
go to the playlist and they will play in order.
should i combine all these short videos into longer ones or leave them as is?
tatro
Please learn to film your camera work is making me dizzy
not to bad. it was videoed in 2014.
tatro
Uhhhhhh i got seasick while watching
stay off the drugs.
tatro
Asshole
You don't lean on a block or crank when measuring, not getting my machine work.
lets see, 120lb block sitting on mill will change with 10lbs of extra pressure. you need a new mill. what do you think happens when you move the table from one side of the mill to the other while you are cutting the block.
tatro