Thanks!!! Gracias. Con este video solucioné el problema de mi G29 entre el 80 y 90%. En mi caso, además de lubricar todos los mecanismos, coloqué un oring de nylon atrás del resorte mencionado, para que tenga más presión. Además, coloqué unas arandelas de cartón entre la carcaza del motor y el engranaje. En definitiva, el problema principal es el MOVIMIENTO del EJE del MOTOR.
Here's the best fix for the rattle. I commented on your other vid, but will do so here, as this fix is more effective than anything else Ive seen. Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more. Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks. My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
@@mousekenny I have seen this guy's comment on a couple videos, and I think I have an idea what he is talking about so I will do my best to interpret what he is saying. First part is about removing the axial movement of the motor shafts, not lateral movement. He is using a small gear with a set screw to essentially pull the motor shaft tight and lock it in place, sort of like a collet would typically be used to secure a shaft from axial movement. This achieves the same thing that the springs are meant to achieve - holding the motor shaft inwards to keep the gears meshed properly. Second part, regarding the magnet sensor, I believe is unique to the G29. The G27 uses an optical position sensor and an encoder ring to determine the wheel position. The encoder ring on the G27 was known to crack, causing the wheel orientation to drift, so logitech replaced that mechanism with a magentic sensor on the next generation of wheels. Then he uses another gear & set screw (grub screw) to secure that motor shaft in a similar manner. Not sure if this would work on a G27, but maybe? I know from experience that getting down to the encoder is a pain and its basically buried under all of the PCBs and stuff. The heatsinks seem like overkill unless your unit is overheating. I believe that the core of both fixes here is to secure the axial movement of the FFB motors either through a better spring or the collar & set screw method mentioned above. I might dig into my wheel soon and see if I can make something work. Hope this helps.
@@hadrux4643 WOW man thanks a lot! I just saw your reply. I have a G29 and I'm already quite satisfied with all the mods I have already: The ones in this video, magnetic shifter mod, quiet pedal mod, removed the rubber in the brake and changed the spring inside. Thanks anyway for your detailed information! You're the best!
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
iv been using the g27 since im 16, so got it in 2014, its still going but i replaced it today for a DD. anyway, my point is that iv grown with it, and i fixed it countless time, just like you do, and your video are really a treat for me. This is exactly what i like to do. fix stuff and enjoy theme. (The Metal bar on the slider got bent, the back fixation for the triangular brace broke, but logitech privided 2 factory holes for me so i used that to fix it with a threaded rod and nuts, then the clamps let go, on a assetto corsa Gunsai touge run. Fixed it but figured it was time to move on while he's still alive). I would advise fixing the wheel both whith the fronts clamps and rear mont to distibute load and avoid stressing the clamps in up/down movement if you go hard on it.
A easier fix is to just shim the springs with a few peices of thin cardboard, like cereal box thin. Then use a strip of low density foam inside the spring just slightly longer than the spring. I used a magic eraser. It adds the extra tension and quiets it right up. It'll be a little stiff at first but loosens up with some play but stays quiet.
Hi i suggest open electric motor and put washer on the shaft, between motor case and "blocker" attached to shaft. This will eliminate the source of problem. This element attached to the shaft is deformed, thats why shaft moves in and out.
Hi! Axial movement of the electric motors are natural and common in this price range of motors. The original Logitech's idea to decrease this axial play is great, but your solution isn't going anywhere. I kept original springs, so no more force is applied to the shaft of the motor therefore reducing its power, but I added soft rubber inside the stock springs, to make it act like a damper. The problem here is that only the spring working there won't be enough when the axial play is too fast (vibration feel on ffb). By adding really soft rubber all inside the spring, now these supports act as a cushion also. I tried putting bigger springs, also drilling the plastic case and putting there a screw to hold it in position. None of these fixes worked as great as my third fix, which is this one I'm sharing here with you. Also, I doubt the metal plate got curved, there isn't enough force, and also when putting it with the plastic case, both seems to be plane and touching each other, and I don't think the plastic case would bend, it would break. I hope my solution works for you! The rubber I used is the most soft I found, almost like a poly. Any help you need, contact me
Hey. Thanks for the tip. Your solution with the rubber sounds great. I'm thinking about trying it out. You wouldn't happen to have some pictures? And where did you get the rubber from? How long did you cut it? I mean it should be a bit shorter than the stock spring right... because of that white washer like thing that fits on the stock spring.
@@ledk1989 well. Idk from what was that rubber, I cut a square with the same length as the spring and threaded it in, it was a pretty soft rubber since you still want the spring to move a bit, but any soft rubber will act as a damper! Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of the process, but it's pretty straightforward. I removed any other mod I did before and left it all stock. If you have any questions contact me!
@@waddy3 i can make a video, of course! I hope u can tell the difference, bc I'm not disassembling it to remove the cushion lol. Later I'll upload it and share the link here.
@@waddy3 hey bro, sorry but i couldn't find any reference footage of my wheel before the mod, so unless i have another g27 to put them side by side, which i don't have, you won't be able to notice the difference. i can give you my word, this worked pretty well for me, after some time of use, it's still working fine and quiet.
Does the fix work well since then? Wonder if this is not creating too much friction when gears are applied under small angle. I applied both fixes just now and steering wheel is super tight, rattling is alse reduced
Ok, I got pissed by this rattling and loose steering. I have enlargen the holes in the metal plate, where the engines are mounted to. This allowed to bring them closer to the plastic gear and minimize the gap. Also added rubber pieces into the spring of those so called bumpers. With that the steering is stiff, gears are in ideal pisition to each other and shaft movement is slightly reduced.
Ooof... no idea... I guess those are just pressed onto each other and normally with bigger parts you could heat the cog and cool the shaft then try to get them appart somehow I guess... but if it is so small. Have you checked if it is a standard cog?
@@hughs8447 Please don't heat them: there is a coil assembly on the axis that is fragile and you will probably damage either that or the bearing. Use the type of tool you use for breaking a chain link on your bicycle (I forgot what the right translation is, sorry about that...)
Hey, has there been any update on this? I'm buying a second hand G29 for really cheap because it has a problem like this. I'm wondering how worth it is.
Hey. Yes I've been trying out some stuff in the meantime and I will make a third video soon. I had some problems with resistance when I played too long and the wheel got warm. Because of this I sanded down those metal washers from this second video even more. This one doesn't make that much of a difference. The big part comes from the plastic washers from the first video, but if you have to open up anyway you can give it a try. I have been trying putting rubber inside the spring like Franco Cilli Damonte suggested in these comments and I suggest you read that thread. The stuff with the rubber is worth it and easier. I'm also planning to try rubber sealing rings instead of the plastic washers like one guy commented in the first video. Just so I mentioned it again: you won't get the rattle out totally but you can get it to a state where it is bearable.
@@ledk1989 hey does it wear the gear in the middle? my g920(similar mechanism) has a bit more resistance when turning right and sometimes big rattling again when turning right. i havent opened the wheel and dont have warranty
Yes. Just haven't found time to make a video. I've been trying out some suggestions of @Franco Cilli Damonte (see comment below) and the fix with the rubber inside the stock spring is even a bit better. I myself shortened the strong spring even more till the resistance on the wheel is very similar to the stock spring and added the rubber anyway. I think the stuff with the metal washers that I did in this video is not really worth it. I'm planning to use a rubber o-ring instead of the Nylon washers just to see if it works a bit better, that was also a suggestion of someone in the comments. And in the first video @Take Better Photos suggested a very good solution that is maybe the best one so far. He suggested to put RC pinion gears to the back of the motors. I may try this one as well.
Logitech G25/27/29 are all gear driven wheels without belts. The gear driven wheels in this price range are notoriously sloppy (I know, I own one 😒). Belt Driven wheels are considered a step up. But full disclosure, they do not compare to direct drive wheels. They are nominally superior to gear wheels in MOST cases - but they tend to have muted feedback, friction reduces efficiency - still has a lot of rotating mass and losses as well due to using cheap motors resulting in necessarily poor pulley ratios further muddying the feedback.
@@EyebrowsMahoney if u like to fix things u can change to belt just take it off gear and modify to belt, is very very easy for people who like to fix things, not for people who like to buy only,, some like to create some other like to buy ready things. i have old wheel but i did many changes on that so i do not even need direct drive wheel im happy with my g27 edited wheel,
@@ToniLixSim I didn't know you modified yours to belt driven. I thought the motors and drivers are too underpowered. I can 3d print pulleys for it but I realized that once I upgrade the drivers and motors I'd might as well get a new wheel 😅 Mine is pretty worn out.
@@EyebrowsMahoney i have 2 small could motors too Logitech G27 Racing Wheel ( Edition ) added handbrake Steering Wheel 35 cm/14 inch 6 Bolts Car Auto Racing Wheel Inverted Pedals Remove Gear System and Change to Belt System added Metal Encoder added Slip Ring
time for logitecht to stop making and engineering pieces of s.... i have ....tried 3 different steering wheels all of them does same shit straitght of the box.....biggest mistake was to choose logitech wheel instead of trustmaster
Thanks!!! Gracias. Con este video solucioné el problema de mi G29 entre el 80 y 90%. En mi caso, además de lubricar todos los mecanismos, coloqué un oring de nylon atrás del resorte mencionado, para que tenga más presión. Además, coloqué unas arandelas de cartón entre la carcaza del motor y el engranaje. En definitiva, el problema principal es el MOVIMIENTO del EJE del MOTOR.
Here's the best fix for the rattle. I commented on your other vid, but will do so here, as this fix is more effective than anything else Ive seen.
Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more.
Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks.
My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
Hey man this sounds pretty good but I'm not quite sure about the details. Is there any picture/videos about this method? Thanks anyway.
@@mousekenny I have seen this guy's comment on a couple videos, and I think I have an idea what he is talking about so I will do my best to interpret what he is saying.
First part is about removing the axial movement of the motor shafts, not lateral movement. He is using a small gear with a set screw to essentially pull the motor shaft tight and lock it in place, sort of like a collet would typically be used to secure a shaft from axial movement. This achieves the same thing that the springs are meant to achieve - holding the motor shaft inwards to keep the gears meshed properly.
Second part, regarding the magnet sensor, I believe is unique to the G29. The G27 uses an optical position sensor and an encoder ring to determine the wheel position. The encoder ring on the G27 was known to crack, causing the wheel orientation to drift, so logitech replaced that mechanism with a magentic sensor on the next generation of wheels. Then he uses another gear & set screw (grub screw) to secure that motor shaft in a similar manner. Not sure if this would work on a G27, but maybe? I know from experience that getting down to the encoder is a pain and its basically buried under all of the PCBs and stuff.
The heatsinks seem like overkill unless your unit is overheating. I believe that the core of both fixes here is to secure the axial movement of the FFB motors either through a better spring or the collar & set screw method mentioned above. I might dig into my wheel soon and see if I can make something work. Hope this helps.
@@hadrux4643 WOW man thanks a lot! I just saw your reply. I have a G29 and I'm already quite satisfied with all the mods I have already: The ones in this video, magnetic shifter mod, quiet pedal mod, removed the rubber in the brake and changed the spring inside. Thanks anyway for your detailed information! You're the best!
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
could you make a video explaining that?
iv been using the g27 since im 16, so got it in 2014, its still going but i replaced it today for a DD. anyway, my point is that iv grown with it, and i fixed it countless time, just like you do, and your video are really a treat for me. This is exactly what i like to do. fix stuff and enjoy theme.
(The Metal bar on the slider got bent, the back fixation for the triangular brace broke, but logitech privided 2 factory holes for me so i used that to fix it with a threaded rod and nuts, then the clamps let go, on a assetto corsa Gunsai touge run. Fixed it but figured it was time to move on while he's still alive).
I would advise fixing the wheel both whith the fronts clamps and rear mont to distibute load and avoid stressing the clamps in up/down movement if you go hard on it.
I'm planning to buy a used G27 in decent condition from a friend, so I subscribed for future fixes. Great videos. :)
A easier fix is to just shim the springs with a few peices of thin cardboard, like cereal box thin. Then use a strip of low density foam inside the spring just slightly longer than the spring. I used a magic eraser. It adds the extra tension and quiets it right up. It'll be a little stiff at first but loosens up with some play but stays quiet.
amazing job bro, amazing explanation, english very clear, thank u for share this information!!
Hi i suggest open electric motor and put washer on the shaft, between motor case and "blocker" attached to shaft. This will eliminate the source of problem. This element attached to the shaft is deformed, thats why shaft moves in and out.
Good solution, but its hard to open those motors though, the way they're crimped at the back.
Hi! Axial movement of the electric motors are natural and common in this price range of motors. The original Logitech's idea to decrease this axial play is great, but your solution isn't going anywhere. I kept original springs, so no more force is applied to the shaft of the motor therefore reducing its power, but I added soft rubber inside the stock springs, to make it act like a damper. The problem here is that only the spring working there won't be enough when the axial play is too fast (vibration feel on ffb). By adding really soft rubber all inside the spring, now these supports act as a cushion also. I tried putting bigger springs, also drilling the plastic case and putting there a screw to hold it in position. None of these fixes worked as great as my third fix, which is this one I'm sharing here with you. Also, I doubt the metal plate got curved, there isn't enough force, and also when putting it with the plastic case, both seems to be plane and touching each other, and I don't think the plastic case would bend, it would break. I hope my solution works for you! The rubber I used is the most soft I found, almost like a poly. Any help you need, contact me
Hey. Thanks for the tip. Your solution with the rubber sounds great. I'm thinking about trying it out. You wouldn't happen to have some pictures? And where did you get the rubber from? How long did you cut it? I mean it should be a bit shorter than the stock spring right... because of that white washer like thing that fits on the stock spring.
@@ledk1989 well. Idk from what was that rubber, I cut a square with the same length as the spring and threaded it in, it was a pretty soft rubber since you still want the spring to move a bit, but any soft rubber will act as a damper! Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of the process, but it's pretty straightforward. I removed any other mod I did before and left it all stock. If you have any questions contact me!
@@efecede22 Would you be able to make a video of the mod you did so we can hear the difference of the sounds?
@@waddy3 i can make a video, of course! I hope u can tell the difference, bc I'm not disassembling it to remove the cushion lol. Later I'll upload it and share the link here.
@@waddy3 hey bro, sorry but i couldn't find any reference footage of my wheel before the mod, so unless i have another g27 to put them side by side, which i don't have, you won't be able to notice the difference. i can give you my word, this worked pretty well for me, after some time of use, it's still working fine and quiet.
So you didn't make the 3.0 video? Can you tell how is the wear level of your wheel?
Does the fix work well since then? Wonder if this is not creating too much friction when gears are applied under small angle. I applied both fixes just now and steering wheel is super tight, rattling is alse reduced
Ok, I got pissed by this rattling and loose steering. I have enlargen the holes in the metal plate, where the engines are mounted to. This allowed to bring them closer to the plastic gear and minimize the gap. Also added rubber pieces into the spring of those so called bumpers. With that the steering is stiff, gears are in ideal pisition to each other and shaft movement is slightly reduced.
maybe was much better to make one motor for left one for right, so motor never get crazy left right
I been shown slightly stronger and faster motors from alliexpress - But I'm thinking how to remove to spiral cogs of the shafts.. Any ideas peeps ??
Ooof... no idea... I guess those are just pressed onto each other and normally with bigger parts you could heat the cog and cool the shaft then try to get them appart somehow I guess... but if it is so small. Have you checked if it is a standard cog?
You have to get a torch, secure the motor with something like a bench vice, then pry it off while it's heated.
@@hughs8447 Please don't heat them: there is a coil assembly on the axis that is fragile and you will probably damage either that or the bearing. Use the type of tool you use for breaking a chain link on your bicycle (I forgot what the right translation is, sorry about that...)
i have an issue on g27
Ffb motors are Dc775 or dc555? Do you know it?
I don't know thad I'm afraid.
Hey, has there been any update on this? I'm buying a second hand G29 for really cheap because it has a problem like this. I'm wondering how worth it is.
Hey. Yes I've been trying out some stuff in the meantime and I will make a third video soon. I had some problems with resistance when I played too long and the wheel got warm. Because of this I sanded down those metal washers from this second video even more. This one doesn't make that much of a difference. The big part comes from the plastic washers from the first video, but if you have to open up anyway you can give it a try. I have been trying putting rubber inside the spring like Franco Cilli Damonte suggested in these comments and I suggest you read that thread. The stuff with the rubber is worth it and easier. I'm also planning to try rubber sealing rings instead of the plastic washers like one guy commented in the first video.
Just so I mentioned it again: you won't get the rattle out totally but you can get it to a state where it is bearable.
@@ledk1989 hey does it wear the gear in the middle? my g920(similar mechanism) has a bit more resistance when turning right and sometimes big rattling again when turning right. i havent opened the wheel and dont have warranty
Any update?
Yes. Just haven't found time to make a video. I've been trying out some suggestions of @Franco Cilli Damonte (see comment below) and the fix with the rubber inside the stock spring is even a bit better. I myself shortened the strong spring even more till the resistance on the wheel is very similar to the stock spring and added the rubber anyway.
I think the stuff with the metal washers that I did in this video is not really worth it.
I'm planning to use a rubber o-ring instead of the Nylon washers just to see if it works a bit better, that was also a suggestion of someone in the comments.
And in the first video @Take Better Photos suggested a very good solution that is maybe the best one so far. He suggested to put RC pinion gears to the back of the motors. I may try this one as well.
i think u need to change to belt
how so?
Logitech G25/27/29 are all gear driven wheels without belts. The gear driven wheels in this price range are notoriously sloppy (I know, I own one 😒). Belt Driven wheels are considered a step up. But full disclosure, they do not compare to direct drive wheels. They are nominally superior to gear wheels in MOST cases - but they tend to have muted feedback, friction reduces efficiency - still has a lot of rotating mass and losses as well due to using cheap motors resulting in necessarily poor pulley ratios further muddying the feedback.
@@EyebrowsMahoney if u like to fix things u can change to belt just take it off gear and modify to belt, is very very easy for people who like to fix things, not for people who like to buy only,, some like to create some other like to buy ready things.
i have old wheel but i did many changes on that so i do not even need direct drive wheel im happy with my g27 edited wheel,
@@ToniLixSim I didn't know you modified yours to belt driven. I thought the motors and drivers are too underpowered. I can 3d print pulleys for it but I realized that once I upgrade the drivers and motors I'd might as well get a new wheel 😅
Mine is pretty worn out.
@@EyebrowsMahoney i have 2 small could motors too
Logitech G27 Racing Wheel ( Edition )
added handbrake
Steering Wheel 35 cm/14 inch 6 Bolts Car Auto Racing Wheel
Inverted Pedals
Remove Gear System and Change to Belt System
added Metal Encoder
added Slip Ring
time for logitecht to stop making and engineering pieces of s.... i have ....tried 3 different steering wheels all of them does same shit straitght of the box.....biggest mistake was to choose logitech wheel instead of trustmaster
yeah right ... bullshit.
Retard