- 2
- 47 040
ledk1989
Приєднався 18 кві 2008
Logitech G27 rattle / chatter fix 2.0
Additional fix of some more of the chatter by mitigating an other cause of it. Like I said in the first video: the fix is not perfect and only solves one of the causes... now this video solves another one.
Переглядів: 24 210
Відео
Logitech g27 rattle / chatter fix
Переглядів 23 тис.4 роки тому
Not perfect fix of the rattle problem of the logitech g27, but works way better and less noise. Uploaded a second video for mitigation of another cause of the Problem: ua-cam.com/video/rArGYyZhWHQ/v-deo.html I checked the parts online by now: The washer is actually just a standard Nylon washer used for M3 screw as seen with part Number "NN-0307-05" under this link: de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail...
So you didn't make the 3.0 video? Can you tell how is the wear level of your wheel?
hi i have a problem with my g29, when there is the feedback hole turning to the right the steering wheel makes a loud noise of gears, as if it were creaking. if instead i turn to the left it is silent. Do you know by chance how to solve it? thanks
Thanks!!! Gracias. Con este video solucioné el problema de mi G29 entre el 80 y 90%. En mi caso, además de lubricar todos los mecanismos, coloqué un oring de nylon atrás del resorte mencionado, para que tenga más presión. Además, coloqué unas arandelas de cartón entre la carcaza del motor y el engranaje. En definitiva, el problema principal es el MOVIMIENTO del EJE del MOTOR.
I want to lubricate the big main gear behind the wheel that connects with the 2 other gears behind the electric motors,so is it plastic?sould i use silicone lube?
Let's get inspiration from racing cars. A bridge bar between suspension heads. Here : I""""""""""""""""""""""""""I I[[[[[[O]]]][[[[O]]]]]]]]I I________________I I`````````````````````I I _ _ I I""""'"[ ]"""""''[ ]""""""I I ....I I......I I.... I I""""""☆"' "☆""""""'I I........... ...........I ......I I...... I I """"""""""""""""""""""""""""" For who find a incomprehensible my sketch of "Logitech G29 True Force" steering wheel : show your application : 1: 👍 and 1: sincere !!! : Thank you 😊
The ultimate fix would be for Logitech to stop reproducing the exact same steering wheel, giving it new names g25,g27,g29,923 open them up all exactly the same bs gear drive, they are to cheep to redesign with a proper belt drive.
A easier fix is to just shim the springs with a few peices of thin cardboard, like cereal box thin. Then use a strip of low density foam inside the spring just slightly longer than the spring. I used a magic eraser. It adds the extra tension and quiets it right up. It'll be a little stiff at first but loosens up with some play but stays quiet.
Spending 400 bucks for then starting myself to fix their shit must be idiotic! And I am not an idiot! I will just send back this garbage after a week of playing with the sound off because this abject object annoying even my neighbors!
iv been using the g27 since im 16, so got it in 2014, its still going but i replaced it today for a DD. anyway, my point is that iv grown with it, and i fixed it countless time, just like you do, and your video are really a treat for me. This is exactly what i like to do. fix stuff and enjoy theme. (The Metal bar on the slider got bent, the back fixation for the triangular brace broke, but logitech privided 2 factory holes for me so i used that to fix it with a threaded rod and nuts, then the clamps let go, on a assetto corsa Gunsai touge run. Fixed it but figured it was time to move on while he's still alive). I would advise fixing the wheel both whith the fronts clamps and rear mont to distibute load and avoid stressing the clamps in up/down movement if you go hard on it.
Does the fix work well since then? Wonder if this is not creating too much friction when gears are applied under small angle. I applied both fixes just now and steering wheel is super tight, rattling is alse reduced
Ok, I got pissed by this rattling and loose steering. I have enlargen the holes in the metal plate, where the engines are mounted to. This allowed to bring them closer to the plastic gear and minimize the gap. Also added rubber pieces into the spring of those so called bumpers. With that the steering is stiff, gears are in ideal pisition to each other and shaft movement is slightly reduced.
amazing job bro, amazing explanation, english very clear, thank u for share this information!!
time for logitecht to stop making and engineering pieces of s.... i have ....tried 3 different steering wheels all of them does same shit straitght of the box.....biggest mistake was to choose logitech wheel instead of trustmaster
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
Did you do this and did it actually make it noise free 100%?
@@noelitooo4525 yes. it's more than 90% better. It's enjoyable now, for sure, let's say that. I haven't used it in awhile but I've been wanting to, so once I do, I'll update you again 👍
so, the was there but you are using a little longer one?
quxk question- how did you remove the case that has the spring pieces in, I thought it was press fitted to bearing ? many thanks in advance,, I have another Idea to try, but i need to remove that part. Also how did it hold up after?
I just had to press against the part where the wheel gets screwed on while holding the plastic case... But since you are the second guy that asks this I start to wonder if they do something different with the g29. Do you have a g29 in or a g27?
Ffb motors are Dc775 or dc555? Do you know it?
I don't know thad I'm afraid.
Any update?
Yes. Just haven't found time to make a video. I've been trying out some suggestions of @Franco Cilli Damonte (see comment below) and the fix with the rubber inside the stock spring is even a bit better. I myself shortened the strong spring even more till the resistance on the wheel is very similar to the stock spring and added the rubber anyway. I think the stuff with the metal washers that I did in this video is not really worth it. I'm planning to use a rubber o-ring instead of the Nylon washers just to see if it works a bit better, that was also a suggestion of someone in the comments. And in the first video @Take Better Photos suggested a very good solution that is maybe the best one so far. He suggested to put RC pinion gears to the back of the motors. I may try this one as well.
I been shown slightly stronger and faster motors from alliexpress - But I'm thinking how to remove to spiral cogs of the shafts.. Any ideas peeps ??
Ooof... no idea... I guess those are just pressed onto each other and normally with bigger parts you could heat the cog and cool the shaft then try to get them appart somehow I guess... but if it is so small. Have you checked if it is a standard cog?
You have to get a torch, secure the motor with something like a bench vice, then pry it off while it's heated.
@@hughs8447 Please don't heat them: there is a coil assembly on the axis that is fragile and you will probably damage either that or the bearing. Use the type of tool you use for breaking a chain link on your bicycle (I forgot what the right translation is, sorry about that...)
or from back of motor u can add something witch sop movents,, that i will do,, from back of motor without open,, add some metals to hold in place,, can spin but not move forward :)
Here's the best fix for the rattle. I commented on your other vid, but will do so here, as this fix is more effective than anything else Ive seen. Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more. Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks. My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
Hey man this sounds pretty good but I'm not quite sure about the details. Is there any picture/videos about this method? Thanks anyway.
@@mousekenny I have seen this guy's comment on a couple videos, and I think I have an idea what he is talking about so I will do my best to interpret what he is saying. First part is about removing the axial movement of the motor shafts, not lateral movement. He is using a small gear with a set screw to essentially pull the motor shaft tight and lock it in place, sort of like a collet would typically be used to secure a shaft from axial movement. This achieves the same thing that the springs are meant to achieve - holding the motor shaft inwards to keep the gears meshed properly. Second part, regarding the magnet sensor, I believe is unique to the G29. The G27 uses an optical position sensor and an encoder ring to determine the wheel position. The encoder ring on the G27 was known to crack, causing the wheel orientation to drift, so logitech replaced that mechanism with a magentic sensor on the next generation of wheels. Then he uses another gear & set screw (grub screw) to secure that motor shaft in a similar manner. Not sure if this would work on a G27, but maybe? I know from experience that getting down to the encoder is a pain and its basically buried under all of the PCBs and stuff. The heatsinks seem like overkill unless your unit is overheating. I believe that the core of both fixes here is to secure the axial movement of the FFB motors either through a better spring or the collar & set screw method mentioned above. I might dig into my wheel soon and see if I can make something work. Hope this helps.
@@hadrux4643 WOW man thanks a lot! I just saw your reply. I have a G29 and I'm already quite satisfied with all the mods I have already: The ones in this video, magnetic shifter mod, quiet pedal mod, removed the rubber in the brake and changed the spring inside. Thanks anyway for your detailed information! You're the best!
Much easier fix for all this.. put a small thin spacer(I used a nail head, it was perfect size for the hole under the spring) under the spring. on the other side of the spring(the housing itself) drill a small hole and put a screw into the hole. the screw hits the spacer and presses against the spring, turn the screw slowly while pushing on the shaft until the play is gone. Bye bye shaft play.. No more clackidy clack..
could you make a video explaining that?
Hi. I have found the perfect fix for this motor shaft rattle. Dont look at the gear end of the motors, instead look at the rear where the shaft stick out. You simple attach an RC pinion gear to the rear shaft, pushing the shaft back to take up the slack - then tighten the grub screw on the gear. It locks the shaft so there is no more lateral moment. For the wheel with the sensor magnet on it, remove the bracket and circuit board, then you can remove the magnet sensor from the shaft as the glue is very flexible. be careful not to lose the magnet sensor as you pry it off. For the pinion gear on this shaft, if must be very small, so I cut the teeth from the shaft of the gear, leaving a small collar with the grub screw. Tighten this onto the shaft, same as the other motor, and job done - reassemble and the rattle noise is no more. Make sure the shaft of the motors still turn relatively freely, so they are not too (or over) tight. Put some teflon lube or oil onto the bearings of the motors, and while it is apart, take off the metal sleeve from each motor and replace with a heatsink on each motor. Can get them for RC car motors. Total cost about 20 to 30 bucks for 2 pinion gears and 2 heatsinks. My G29 wheel went from unusable in F1, as the rattle was excessive even when driving in a straight line, to after the fix where it is totally gone and the wheel performs exceptionally.
that is a neat idea, thank you for that... would you consider making a short video about that? :)
A Video would be great
What size are the rc pinion gears? (Pin size for the motors) What about the sensor? Will it still work as it should?
@B I did this about a week ago with some mini adjusting Rings with grub screws.
i need help understanding this fix! really need it :(
Solve the problem of infinite coils and does not roll inside the game, please
What about putting a washer behind the spring to give the preload, instead of a longer spring . . .
thought about that, too. Since it is a solution for pedals, why not here as well. maybe even with a rubber inlay, like the break pedal solution from logitech. The cut in half spring may bite into the plastic after a while, so i do not think it is a viable option. So ill try with rubber.
yeah right ... bullshit.
Retard
So I read in the comments of another video that that play or slop where the smaller gear moves back and forth is intentional. That play gives the plastic some wiggle room when both motors aren't exactly perfectly synced up. I don't know how true that comment was but I thought I should share it here too.
i think u need to change to belt
how so?
Logitech G25/27/29 are all gear driven wheels without belts. The gear driven wheels in this price range are notoriously sloppy (I know, I own one 😒). Belt Driven wheels are considered a step up. But full disclosure, they do not compare to direct drive wheels. They are nominally superior to gear wheels in MOST cases - but they tend to have muted feedback, friction reduces efficiency - still has a lot of rotating mass and losses as well due to using cheap motors resulting in necessarily poor pulley ratios further muddying the feedback.
@@EyebrowsMahoney if u like to fix things u can change to belt just take it off gear and modify to belt, is very very easy for people who like to fix things, not for people who like to buy only,, some like to create some other like to buy ready things. i have old wheel but i did many changes on that so i do not even need direct drive wheel im happy with my g27 edited wheel,
@@ToniLixSim I didn't know you modified yours to belt driven. I thought the motors and drivers are too underpowered. I can 3d print pulleys for it but I realized that once I upgrade the drivers and motors I'd might as well get a new wheel 😅 Mine is pretty worn out.
@@EyebrowsMahoney i have 2 small could motors too Logitech G27 Racing Wheel ( Edition ) added handbrake Steering Wheel 35 cm/14 inch 6 Bolts Car Auto Racing Wheel Inverted Pedals Remove Gear System and Change to Belt System added Metal Encoder added Slip Ring
maybe was much better to make one motor for left one for right, so motor never get crazy left right
i think the term is "axial freeplay" . Thanks for the video . Its the biggest flaw of this wheel
I'm planning to buy a used G27 in decent condition from a friend, so I subscribed for future fixes. Great videos. :)
Do you know if using rubber rings would work? I've got a bunch of spare rubber rings and I'd like to try this.
Funny that you ask this^^ I was actually thinking of trying that out too^^ You mean rubber sealing rings right? I think the hard part will be getting it over the small gear. If you find just the right thickness that doesn't tear when you squeeze it over the small gear and still has the right thickness and diameter it could be better than the plastic washers. Maybe I am gonna try this... and if you do so before me then let me know how it worked out^^
i have an issue on g27
plz give me your whatapps number or telegram
Hey, has there been any update on this? I'm buying a second hand G29 for really cheap because it has a problem like this. I'm wondering how worth it is.
Hey. Yes I've been trying out some stuff in the meantime and I will make a third video soon. I had some problems with resistance when I played too long and the wheel got warm. Because of this I sanded down those metal washers from this second video even more. This one doesn't make that much of a difference. The big part comes from the plastic washers from the first video, but if you have to open up anyway you can give it a try. I have been trying putting rubber inside the spring like Franco Cilli Damonte suggested in these comments and I suggest you read that thread. The stuff with the rubber is worth it and easier. I'm also planning to try rubber sealing rings instead of the plastic washers like one guy commented in the first video. Just so I mentioned it again: you won't get the rattle out totally but you can get it to a state where it is bearable.
@@ledk1989 hey does it wear the gear in the middle? my g920(similar mechanism) has a bit more resistance when turning right and sometimes big rattling again when turning right. i havent opened the wheel and dont have warranty
Hi! Axial movement of the electric motors are natural and common in this price range of motors. The original Logitech's idea to decrease this axial play is great, but your solution isn't going anywhere. I kept original springs, so no more force is applied to the shaft of the motor therefore reducing its power, but I added soft rubber inside the stock springs, to make it act like a damper. The problem here is that only the spring working there won't be enough when the axial play is too fast (vibration feel on ffb). By adding really soft rubber all inside the spring, now these supports act as a cushion also. I tried putting bigger springs, also drilling the plastic case and putting there a screw to hold it in position. None of these fixes worked as great as my third fix, which is this one I'm sharing here with you. Also, I doubt the metal plate got curved, there isn't enough force, and also when putting it with the plastic case, both seems to be plane and touching each other, and I don't think the plastic case would bend, it would break. I hope my solution works for you! The rubber I used is the most soft I found, almost like a poly. Any help you need, contact me
Hey. Thanks for the tip. Your solution with the rubber sounds great. I'm thinking about trying it out. You wouldn't happen to have some pictures? And where did you get the rubber from? How long did you cut it? I mean it should be a bit shorter than the stock spring right... because of that white washer like thing that fits on the stock spring.
@@ledk1989 well. Idk from what was that rubber, I cut a square with the same length as the spring and threaded it in, it was a pretty soft rubber since you still want the spring to move a bit, but any soft rubber will act as a damper! Unfortunately, I didn't take any pics of the process, but it's pretty straightforward. I removed any other mod I did before and left it all stock. If you have any questions contact me!
@@efecede22 Would you be able to make a video of the mod you did so we can hear the difference of the sounds?
@@waddy3 i can make a video, of course! I hope u can tell the difference, bc I'm not disassembling it to remove the cushion lol. Later I'll upload it and share the link here.
@@waddy3 hey bro, sorry but i couldn't find any reference footage of my wheel before the mod, so unless i have another g27 to put them side by side, which i don't have, you won't be able to notice the difference. i can give you my word, this worked pretty well for me, after some time of use, it's still working fine and quiet.
Bro, you good? Sounds like you have the Rona.
Haha🙈 Nah I have a crooked nose which allways runs😅 Yeah it's so disturbing in that video... Should have done it on a better day
@@lucadondiego6994 glad it's just your nose, and not the Rona.
You really shouldn't have to do this though, it's something that they should fix or get right in the first place. Nice work though, you are very handy with the tools bro.
Hi i suggest open electric motor and put washer on the shaft, between motor case and "blocker" attached to shaft. This will eliminate the source of problem. This element attached to the shaft is deformed, thats why shaft moves in and out.
Good solution, but its hard to open those motors though, the way they're crimped at the back.
If youd be willing to send exact washers and same springs to uk, id pay :D :D
Hey. Well I have no washers left so first let me check if I find them online for you. The washers shouldn't be a problem but the spring in the right leght is.
I'd take me a lot of time to find everything exact for it. Don't wanna mess anything up and get the right parts
@@paulius5017 So I checked delivery prices to UK with UPS and DPD and you'd pay way to much! But check out these links: Spring: de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221000016945/?CategorySpec=00000005917%3a%3amig00000002023747%0900000005923%3a%3amig00000002070997 Washer: Part Number NN-0307-05 under this link: de.misumi-ec.com/vona2/detail/221006204917/ And if you don't want to order from the internet: The washer is a standard Nylon washer used for M3 screws. You should find it everywhere. And the spring basically should just be a bit stronger than the one you take out. Same outer diameter and cut to same length. Hope that helps you out ;-) I'm sure you will succeed!
Thanks man I'll have a look at this. I've sent small parcels to Lithuania for like £5-£10,weird.
Can you check out my Reddit post? Is this the type of chattering/rattling that you heard? www.reddit.com/r/simracing/comments/j6lo0t/anyone_have_a_fix_for_this_problem_with_my_g920/
No that is not the way I had it. The noise that I had ocured every time the force fedback had to change direction of applied force. Like in this video: ua-cam.com/video/x733qi__N0k/v-deo.html
Well I've been having epic time trial battles with my roommate over the past two months using it countless hours and it still works fine. No noise and more response. It takes some patience to get the washers in that gap and to sand it down just right so that the gears still move freely. Make it so that there is a teeny tiny gap left, lube it a bit and reassemble the wheel. You dont have to open and close the wheel to fine adjust like in the solution with the drill and the screw.
Hi, I'm having the same problem with my G29, your method looks really promising. I've purchased the washer and springs and finished modding the spring. However, I can't install the spring cause I don't know how to disassemble the big gear (at 4:35) from the cover(at 6:00). Could you please help? I'd love to pay you for helping this... Thanks.
@@mousekenny Hey. Well I don't know if there is a difference to the G29 but in the G27 you just have to push it out hard enough because bearing is pressed in a bit. Make sure to also read the comment of @Take Better Fotos because that solution sounds very promising too and you wouldn't vave to take that cover off. Also if you have a stronger spring I would cut it just a bit shorter than the original... Maybe 1mm... It still gets preloaded enough. Good luck!
@@ledk1989 Thanks a lot for your reply! I'll try to press it harder. I guess there's no much difference cause I didn't see anywhere to unscrew or something. Yeah I've got stronger spring, 0.7mm exactly like you used in the video.
this is a good idea! in Australia we know that German engineering is the best in the world thanks
woow that is truly amazing i was looking for such a video for ages It did work perfectly in my case