This is great. I am going to do the power brick mod, heatsinks for the motors + fets, and add two USB 40mm Noctua Fans in the intake. Plan is to keep the stock motors for now though. Thank you!
I was able to do the motor swap and add some fans and the wheel works well for the most part. I tore it down and put it back together like 4 times already, always moving that plastic gear slider a little bit more to be fully centered. Even when the calibration goes well, while testing full rotation the end of the 450 degrees ends just a tiny bit early on both sides. Can't figure that out yet, but the rest, force feedback and speed is amazing.
Could be a software setting? But yea it has to be like 100% dead on or it won't work right and might damage the unit. But that would offset one side or another, not both.
I'm not really sure yet. Last time I tested, I spent a while until I was able to have it centered in a way that when you'd move the wheel, it'd end at the same spot of the slider on both sides so it should be centered well, and still on the software it appears it ends slightly before on both sides, so it might be a software issue after the swap, who knows. I'll keep trying later today, as I'm opening it again to add a knob to control the fan speeds, so we'll see.
The g920 and g25 are infact different internally. The g25 has straight cut gears and the g920 have helical gears. I have both and the g25 takes a little bit more force to turn while off and its louder.
@@protomor I don't want to take mine apart, there is a UA-cam video called Logitech g25 maintenance by BTG that shows it fully disassembled. They moved onto helical gears in the g27 and later models.
Additionally, I read somewhere that the Logitech wheels can operate on different APIs for force feedback depending on the game, some APIs allow the wheel to run at a higher torque all the time but clip peak torque events, whereas others maintain the dynamic range and leave headroom for peaks, this can give the impression that some wheels are consistently stronger than others, when most of them except for the DFGT have basically the same two motors. I only looked into this after a store clerk who had tried a few mentioned that the G923 was weaker for drifting compared to the G29 as it didn't correct as fast.
I’m following your work with great interest, because I’m not going to be able to buy my way much above a Logitech anytime soon so learning to build is my only path to substantive upgrades. First question: Lubing the gearing seems simple. How much difference does it make and what kind of lubricant do you recommend?
Honestly, I don't think the gears need extra lubing. I did it because I wiped it off in the motor swapping process. What you see on mine is a silicone based lubricant. I forget specifics but you want that style of spray because it's safe to use around rubbers/plastics. Many other lubricants will slowly eat away at the material. you also want something thicker so it has some staying power. IIRC this lube came from a tube and not a spray. But do your research, this is just what I had lying around.
I understand wanting to upgrade but if your gonna spend a extra 100 bucks just get the thrustmaster t300 or tx they are way better wheels and are quieter and smoother and stronger
I am one of those sad souls with a g29 that has full left lock upon booting or plugging in the wheel. Tried replacing the power AC adapter and open in the thing. Up to see if anything was out of alignment. But everything looks good. Some folks say it could be a combination of the motor with the hall sensor? I don't know what to do. It's just too expensive after only one year of use to just let it go and it's not under warranty now of course
Check the encoder wheel for cracks. If yours is the magnetic kind, take as much of the encoder stuff apart as you can, clean it with alcohol wipes, and put it back together.
Hey man I've seen all your videos based on the wheel modification and I have a question do you reckon I can replace only one motor from an rc car to avoid the calibration trouble and stl 3d print part
Hi :) so basically my g920 is failing on calibration and not spinning left and right all the way. I'm guessing it's something to do with the cog/slider .. you mentioned in the video about other tutorials for setting that part up? Please could you link them?? Thankyou so much in advance
The video should explain the insides pretty well. Basically, disassemble, make sure it's aligned and spins fully, put back together. But I'd say 90% of what I see is that the sensor wheel is broken or dirty.
Have you ever come across an issue with the G920 where it will not power up? I have a pre owned G920 and no light comes on when plugged into the main supply. I have changed powerbrick and cable but still no power
Sometimes they won't power up until plugged into a USB slot. But if it straight up won't power up, it could be the capacitors. But no I've never come into that exact situation.
hi i have a problem with my g29, when there is the feedback hole turning to the right the steering wheel makes a loud noise of gears, as if it were creaking. if instead i turn to the left it is silent. Do you know by chance how to solve it? thanks
Something is loose. The type of stuff you're explaining looks like some of the screws that hold the base plate on. Flip the unit over and check underneath and make sure all the screws are tight. Next after that is the 3 srews that hold the steering wheel onto the center support. If neither of those are it, you're gonna have to open it up and poke around to see what's not tight.
@@protomor I opened the steering wheel completely, greased all the gears, then closed everything again, tightening every single screw, but it still makes the noise... could it be one of the two motors? Since it only makes noise on the right, maybe the one on the right?
@@samuelebravo4116 Hmm, the fact it's only on one direction usually means a lash issue. Where something isn't aligned. I dont' think it's the motor. But who knows.
@@samuelebravo4116 the locking plate that mounts the steering plate can be misaligned. I've seen the bow spring get misaligned as well. The bearings in the steering shaft could be going bad and causing the big gear to have slop. You can send me pic and video of the teardown and I can give my opinions. If a bearing is bad tho, I don't know where to get new ones
No but google around and see whats similar. I'm sure someone has found a better one. One of my other videos has a different motor that might be usable.
i'm having mega trouble with my new 30 slot g27 atm i doubt you will reply to this comment but if you do i also stream and upload to youtube raly is my thing sim drifting is my thing i have the new encoder i installed it but i'm having mega issues please reply :(
cheap china stainless steel one i flipped it other side it had a scratch on it darkened it with perma black marker and now its fine yay now my shifter has a plastic plate that holds the pot on the forward back pot one side of the little prongs has snapped so i need the metal replacement one si can''t find them anywhere anymore 3 years ago i saw them somewhere iunno even what they are called .... then the last step is better pots for pedals ...@@protomor
hiya yeah thanks for the reply so i got the encoder sorted but now i need a new plyg for the potientimiter for the gear shifter the one at the back has had too much abuse i need to know what the name and size of taht plg is so i can ask about locally for one at like hardware stores and such. came soo close yet so far to sim streaming on twitch again. it's such hard work with gear like this to stram. now i know why people stream games like dota and fortnite. lol. none of this fixxing hardware headaches. btw nice video it was most helpfull up to the point of the wheel base. pedals is quite simple and str8 forward but the shifter is a nightmare. where can i get replacement pots and plugs for the pots? if only i knew the name and size of the plug? do you know by any chance please? thanks in advance@@protomor
Maybe people just treat theirs badly. I have a G27 that is 7+ years old, it must have 5k or more hours on it. There isn't even a single chip on the main orbital gear. Or any of the plastic gears for that matter.
1. They don't use the same motor in all models, 2. Upgrading PSU does NOTHING to stock wheel, 3. Adding more lube just makes it more resistant and with that amount you got there it looks like sh... 4. There is a tool to take gears from shaft, 5. Shafts are longer to work with white plastik dampers that are inside plastik housing
"Lube makes everything better" 😂
Indeed sir
This is great. I am going to do the power brick mod, heatsinks for the motors + fets, and add two USB 40mm Noctua Fans in the intake. Plan is to keep the stock motors for now though. Thank you!
Why not do the motors too?
I recommend teflon grease it is safe on plastic and rubber and it is like liquid bearings .
This was super helpful with my rig setup, thanks!!
this is diabolical bro wth 😭(i love it)
when putting the wheel gear onto the rack there's a small dot in the middle of the rack and on the gear to help line it up
ooooh good to know. thanks!
There’s timing marks on bar gear and one on small round gear
I was able to do the motor swap and add some fans and the wheel works well for the most part. I tore it down and put it back together like 4 times already, always moving that plastic gear slider a little bit more to be fully centered. Even when the calibration goes well, while testing full rotation the end of the 450 degrees ends just a tiny bit early on both sides. Can't figure that out yet, but the rest, force feedback and speed is amazing.
Could be a software setting? But yea it has to be like 100% dead on or it won't work right and might damage the unit. But that would offset one side or another, not both.
I'm not really sure yet. Last time I tested, I spent a while until I was able to have it centered in a way that when you'd move the wheel, it'd end at the same spot of the slider on both sides so it should be centered well, and still on the software it appears it ends slightly before on both sides, so it might be a software issue after the swap, who knows. I'll keep trying later today, as I'm opening it again to add a knob to control the fan speeds, so we'll see.
The g920 and g25 are infact different internally. The g25 has straight cut gears and the g920 have helical gears. I have both and the g25 takes a little bit more force to turn while off and its louder.
Interesting. can you send me pictures of the differences? I always did feel like the G25 was loduer.
@@protomor I don't want to take mine apart, there is a UA-cam video called Logitech g25 maintenance by BTG that shows it fully disassembled. They moved onto helical gears in the g27 and later models.
@@mashedpotatoes5323 I'll take a look. Thanks for the info!
Additionally, I read somewhere that the Logitech wheels can operate on different APIs for force feedback depending on the game, some APIs allow the wheel to run at a higher torque all the time but clip peak torque events, whereas others maintain the dynamic range and leave headroom for peaks, this can give the impression that some wheels are consistently stronger than others, when most of them except for the DFGT have basically the same two motors. I only looked into this after a store clerk who had tried a few mentioned that the G923 was weaker for drifting compared to the G29 as it didn't correct as fast.
Awesome video! I thought I heard that you can use just the pedals and shifter by just unplugging the power brick and leaving the USB plugged in.
oh yea I think that works too but then you have the old wheel just lying around. Makes it more compact to just pull out those innards you know?
I’m following your work with great interest, because I’m not going to be able to buy my way much above a Logitech anytime soon so learning to build is my only path to substantive upgrades. First question: Lubing the gearing seems simple. How much difference does it make and what kind of lubricant do you recommend?
Honestly, I don't think the gears need extra lubing. I did it because I wiped it off in the motor swapping process. What you see on mine is a silicone based lubricant. I forget specifics but you want that style of spray because it's safe to use around rubbers/plastics. Many other lubricants will slowly eat away at the material. you also want something thicker so it has some staying power. IIRC this lube came from a tube and not a spray. But do your research, this is just what I had lying around.
@@protomor Thank you much. Glad to hear it comes lubed from the factory.
I understand wanting to upgrade but if your gonna spend a extra 100 bucks just get the thrustmaster t300 or tx they are way better wheels and are quieter and smoother and stronger
I am one of those sad souls with a g29 that has full left lock upon booting or plugging in the wheel. Tried replacing the power AC adapter and open in the thing. Up to see if anything was out of alignment. But everything looks good. Some folks say it could be a combination of the motor with the hall sensor? I don't know what to do. It's just too expensive after only one year of use to just let it go and it's not under warranty now of course
Check the encoder wheel for cracks. If yours is the magnetic kind, take as much of the encoder stuff apart as you can, clean it with alcohol wipes, and put it back together.
My sensor was cracked I just tightened the mount screws and Shabam worked and calibrated perfectly
Hey man I've seen all your videos based on the wheel modification and I have a question do you reckon I can replace only one motor from an rc car to avoid the calibration trouble and stl 3d print part
Or drill a third hole and put the rc motor there and split power from one of the already existing motors so that I have 3 in total
Sorry for the late reply. No.. you'd make the motors fight each other. Shortening their life.
Hi :) so basically my g920 is failing on calibration and not spinning left and right all the way. I'm guessing it's something to do with the cog/slider .. you mentioned in the video about other tutorials for setting that part up? Please could you link them??
Thankyou so much in advance
The video should explain the insides pretty well. Basically, disassemble, make sure it's aligned and spins fully, put back together. But I'd say 90% of what I see is that the sensor wheel is broken or dirty.
Subbed thanks
Have you ever come across an issue with the G920 where it will not power up? I have a pre owned G920 and no light comes on when plugged into the main supply. I have changed powerbrick and cable but still no power
Sometimes they won't power up until plugged into a USB slot. But if it straight up won't power up, it could be the capacitors. But no I've never come into that exact situation.
My G27 took a crap. Ended up replacing the board
NM ? how much power
hi i have a problem with my g29, when there is the feedback hole turning to the right the steering wheel makes a loud noise of gears, as if it were creaking. if instead i turn to the left it is silent. Do you know by chance how to solve it? thanks
Something is loose. The type of stuff you're explaining looks like some of the screws that hold the base plate on. Flip the unit over and check underneath and make sure all the screws are tight. Next after that is the 3 srews that hold the steering wheel onto the center support. If neither of those are it, you're gonna have to open it up and poke around to see what's not tight.
@@protomor I opened the steering wheel completely, greased all the gears, then closed everything again, tightening every single screw, but it still makes the noise... could it be one of the two motors? Since it only makes noise on the right, maybe the one on the right?
@@samuelebravo4116 Hmm, the fact it's only on one direction usually means a lash issue. Where something isn't aligned. I dont' think it's the motor. But who knows.
Where can there be something not aligned?
@@samuelebravo4116 the locking plate that mounts the steering plate can be misaligned. I've seen the bow spring get misaligned as well. The bearings in the steering shaft could be going bad and causing the big gear to have slop. You can send me pic and video of the teardown and I can give my opinions. If a bearing is bad tho, I don't know where to get new ones
Did you find any other motors or what are the specs so I can find something similar
No but google around and see whats similar. I'm sure someone has found a better one. One of my other videos has a different motor that might be usable.
"lube makes everything better"
So you added the blue heat sinks on the motors?
Yea they're generic rc car heat sinks
@@protomor how do they attach?
@@jameszanghi3564 they just clip on
@@protomor no thermal paste?
@@jameszanghi3564 you can. I was too lazy
Hi can i use any motors that are the samo for this project?
Like the factory motors? Sure
i'm having mega trouble with my new 30 slot g27 atm i doubt you will reply to this comment but if you do i also stream and upload to youtube raly is my thing sim drifting is my thing i have the new encoder i installed it but i'm having mega issues please reply :(
If you replaced it with a different encoder wheel, it def won't work. Make sure you install the same one as what used to be in it.
cheap china stainless steel one i flipped it other side it had a scratch on it darkened it with perma black marker and now its fine yay now my shifter has a plastic plate that holds the pot on the forward back pot one side of the little prongs has snapped so i need the metal replacement one si can''t find them anywhere anymore 3 years ago i saw them somewhere iunno even what they are called .... then the last step is better pots for pedals ...@@protomor
hiya yeah thanks for the reply so i got the encoder sorted but now i need a new plyg for the potientimiter for the gear shifter the one at the back has had too much abuse i need to know what the name and size of taht plg is so i can ask about locally for one at like hardware stores and such. came soo close yet so far to sim streaming on twitch again. it's such hard work with gear like this to stram. now i know why people stream games like dota and fortnite. lol. none of this fixxing hardware headaches. btw nice video it was most helpfull up to the point of the wheel base. pedals is quite simple and str8 forward but the shifter is a nightmare. where can i get replacement pots and plugs for the pots? if only i knew the name and size of the plug? do you know by any chance please? thanks in advance@@protomor
Really plastic encoder on the g29 wow might as well get t150 myg27 broke can’t get it to work right
I mean... for manufacturing bulk, it made sense at the time.
@@protomor true but they should have learned from the g25 g27 lol
@@esmokebaby they did. Later styles are magnetic
@@protomor ya but later iam assuming you mean the g923 at that price ill just get a t300
@@esmokebaby g29 and g920 change the reluctor style mid way. So some are magnetic and some are the wheels.
Maybe people just treat theirs badly. I have a G27 that is 7+ years old, it must have 5k or more hours on it.
There isn't even a single chip on the main orbital gear. Or any of the plastic gears for that matter.
Get the 923 mb
like that model to tear apart and look into? Would love to if someone has a used or dead model to send to me!
1. They don't use the same motor in all models,
2. Upgrading PSU does NOTHING to stock wheel,
3. Adding more lube just makes it more resistant and with that amount you got there it looks like sh...
4. There is a tool to take gears from shaft,
5. Shafts are longer to work with white plastik dampers that are inside plastik housing