Looks fairly easy to do on these old diesels. Looking at a old Dasher and this is one thing the owner mentioned the car needs, but I've never done it on one of these.
Un your explanation of how the valave wears against the set the lash will change. But the lash goes away. Not gets bigger. Because the wear makes the valave get closer to the camshaft. Not further away. Making the engine not be loud from valave train. A tricky engine is better than a quite one. As long as you know it's within spec. I have done many shim bucket type valaves and I have yet to see the valave lash be too big of a gap. Always too small.
If your cabriolet has the original engine, you have hydraulic lifters which do not need adjustment. All Cabriolets and Sciroccos from 1988 onwards use hydraulic lifters.
@@mk1rabbitholeI'm still waiting for the carb swap video, though. Haha. I sent you a message on FB messenger. I may have some questions coming up with my 78.
Timothy Lewis i’ve been severely slacking lately. i have all that filmed already just need to finish editing 🤦🏼♂️ i’ll try and get something done tonight or tomorrow.
Hi, I'm considering getting my valves adjusted as it literally sounds like a diesel now. It is a 1.4 citi golf, I have a Haynes manual. For the shims, should I buy an assortment of them? Considering we don't know the gaps between. Also what carb are you running, I like the intake sound🙂 Thank you in advance! Compliments of the season!!
you should measure how far your valves are out and order the ones you need. if you can find and afford a full shim kit, it’s not a bad option but it’s always best to measure and see what you need before buying anything. this car has a weber 32/36. thanks for the support!
Thanks for the detailed walk-through, but I have a few questions. 1)Would you have been able to leave the cam tool in by using a valve adjustment pliers to press down the follower and pry out the shim? 2) If you do it this way, can you just figure out each adjustment one at a time, put it back, then measure again right away to see if it has the correct gap? It just seems alot scarier for a first-timer to do it this way, removing the cam and then taking out all the shims at once, doing the math, and hoping the gaps are right after putting everything back together again.
yeah so i can’t confirm firsthand but as far as i know and have been told, the proper tool to adjust valves is for exactly that; compressing the valve to sneak the shim out without removing cam. most importantly though, you should never ever pry the shims out. use a magnet to take them out to avoid any scratching or chipping of the shim and/or bucket.
Can please somebody tell me in which sequence I should remove camshaft in my golf/Rabbit Mk1 1.6 diesel. Really need it now and my workshop manual still has not came
@@mk1rabbithole I am sorry It has been a while since I saw this video so I forgot that you actually showed that in the video. I was thinking that there is some specific order in which you should detach the brackets because I Saw somewhere that you should remove like 1st bracket than 3rd and 5th and than 2nd and 4th.. But actually i really like your method and IT seems quite safer so I am gonna use that.
5:29 for noisy valves
25:41 for quiet valves
Yeah man, no one else doin these videos as good as you! 🤘
Thanks for posting, there are too few videos covering early watercooled tech stuff! Yours are gold!
dude of course! thank you so much for the support.
Thanks a lot on my side, you've helped clear a few things out
Looks fairly easy to do on these old diesels. Looking at a old Dasher and this is one thing the owner mentioned the car needs, but I've never done it on one of these.
yeah same process man. hope it helps.
Un your explanation of how the valave wears against the set the lash will change. But the lash goes away. Not gets bigger. Because the wear makes the valave get closer to the camshaft. Not further away. Making the engine not be loud from valave train.
A tricky engine is better than a quite one. As long as you know it's within spec. I have done many shim bucket type valaves and I have yet to see the valave lash be too big of a gap. Always too small.
Thank you, I have an 88Vw Cabriolet good information to follow.
If your cabriolet has the original engine, you have hydraulic lifters which do not need adjustment.
All Cabriolets and Sciroccos from 1988 onwards use hydraulic lifters.
Recently picked up a 78. Your vids are very informative and greatly appreciated. Keep up the great work.
Timothy Lewis glad to hear people are getting use of these videos especially these more technical ones!
@@mk1rabbitholeI'm still waiting for the carb swap video, though. Haha. I sent you a message on FB messenger. I may have some questions coming up with my 78.
Timothy Lewis i’ve been severely slacking lately. i have all that filmed already just need to finish editing 🤦🏼♂️ i’ll try and get something done tonight or tomorrow.
@the rAbb1t hole Right on! Looking forward to the vid.
damn i really appreciate this video
Luke Almquist glad to hear! got a few other things i wanna do like this but if you have any suggestions to hesitate to ask.
Hi, I'm considering getting my valves adjusted as it literally sounds like a diesel now. It is a 1.4 citi golf, I have a Haynes manual. For the shims, should I buy an assortment of them? Considering we don't know the gaps between. Also what carb are you running, I like the intake sound🙂 Thank you in advance! Compliments of the season!!
you should measure how far your valves are out and order the ones you need. if you can find and afford a full shim kit, it’s not a bad option but it’s always best to measure and see what you need before buying anything. this car has a weber 32/36. thanks for the support!
What's standard size clearance for 1.8 8valve golf mk2
Thanks for the detailed walk-through, but I have a few questions.
1)Would you have been able to leave the cam tool in by using a valve adjustment pliers to press down the follower and pry out the shim?
2) If you do it this way, can you just figure out each adjustment one at a time, put it back, then measure again right away to see if it has the correct gap?
It just seems alot scarier for a first-timer to do it this way, removing the cam and then taking out all the shims at once, doing the math, and hoping the gaps are right after putting everything back together again.
yeah so i can’t confirm firsthand but as far as i know and have been told, the proper tool to adjust valves is for exactly that; compressing the valve to sneak the shim out without removing cam. most importantly though, you should never ever pry the shims out. use a magnet to take them out to avoid any scratching or chipping of the shim and/or bucket.
Can please somebody tell me in which sequence I should remove camshaft in my golf/Rabbit Mk1 1.6 diesel. Really need it now and my workshop manual still has not came
what do you mean by sequence? i explain how you should remove and install the cam in this video
@@mk1rabbithole I am sorry It has been a while since I saw this video so I forgot that you actually showed that in the video. I was thinking that there is some specific order in which you should detach the brackets because I Saw somewhere that you should remove like 1st bracket than 3rd and 5th and than 2nd and 4th.. But actually i really like your method and IT seems quite safer so I am gonna use that.