mk1 vw cylinder head removal and install
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- start to finish of removing and installing a mk1 vw 8v cylinder head. we also talk about setting/checking timing, and a few other things so check the comment section for time stamps.
Old video but I’ve just followed you step by step with my Mk1 Gti. Been putting it off (a month) until I found this video. Thank you 🙏 🎉
Thanks for the Video,here in South Africa the mark 1 was upgraded and manufactured till 2009 and was called the Citi Golf mk1,fitted with standard 14i mp9 engine up to a sporty 18i engine(both fuel injections)-Was only discontinued because of the strict European fuel emission standards and the polo was introduced.Mine as with thousands of others here in SA is still in mint condition and a pleasure to drive
i hope to one day make it down to SA to experience the mk1 community firsthand! so jealous about how long they were making the mk1 chassis down there. thanks for the info!
puts me at ease when preparing to do mine, thanks for the great video!
Love that you clearly explain everything
I've used your videos to gain a better understanding of these MK1s. Great video!
Well, technically, it’s the procedure for a head gasket on a Mk3
@@fastinradfordable hence the ABA swap. Notice I said videos. Fully aware this is a swap situation.
beholden, i’m glad to hear! if you have any questions don’t hesitate to reach out.
Lol, on the topic of warped heads, my "92" cabby had this issue when i bought it and previous owner filled the coolant sys wth stop-leak... clogged up everything!! The machine shop said that the head was so twisted that he was surprised the cam didn't break? Gr8 content btw!!!
oh sheesh! i can only imagine. i can’t stand seeing people recommend any of those fixes in a can. as a hail mary to get you home on an already tired motor? sure. but it’s never more than a bandaid that will usually ensure a trashed engine and coolant system.
Very good video. Haven't done this before but will need to remove my head due to a badly snapped off spark plug (8v 1.8 jh ). Good tips on checking tdc. This helps a newbie to wrap their head around the timing aspects of the job. I've been looking everywhere for a video like this. 👍
that’s really great to hear. i know it’s not the most “professional” and organized step by step video but i tried to cover as much detail as could while going through this. good luck with the task and keep me updated how you make out or if you have any questions.
Thanks for the offer to take a question or two, right now I'm trying to understand how best to make sure the top pulley is aligned when I put the timing belt back on. I think I understand now the bottom crank and distributor alignment. I'll rewatch that part. I know there's a timing mark on the top pulley.
@@jeffkelly636 you’ll have to put it all together the best you can and sometimes you’ll be off a tooth or two in either direction one of the pulleys. as long as you’re close, it’s fine to turn the motor over by hand to see where things line up and then see if your marks are where they should be. if they aren’t, adjust accordingly and turn everything over by hand one or two revolutions and recheck. i can’t recall if i mention it in the video or not but try to get all your belt slack on the tensioner side.
Just got my head off last night after procrastinating. One headbolt head needed some gentle hammering for my bit to set into it which was a real nail biter- but I was able to crack it loose and get the head off! I used a white-out brush to mark spots to remember belt pulley alignment. I used zip ties to catch the timing belt slack once my tensioner was loosened. Thanks for the tips!
I got some new bolts which I think have the same head but weirdly my bit doesn't seem to go in easily so I need to look into this. Now I can take my head to a machine shop (snapped spark plug).
Ah. I maybe doing a head swap in the future. Good timing.
Thanks buddy, I'm about to do my gasket. Have done the timing belt before and this was a succinct demonstration of that part and the rest seems similar. I'll let you know how I go ;p
glad to help man! if you've done the timing belt already, this shouldn't be difficult at all. personally, timing the motor was always the sketchy part. now its a breeze.
Keep em commin, I enjoy watching! A few things I would have done differently but it's not my car and I'm not a troll!? Nice work!
oh tons of things a lot of people would do differently, this is just my personal way of doing it. feel free to add what you’d do differently to your original comment because this channel is meant as a database. i always welcome outside input into these comment sections. as someone else mentioned they rather leave the intake and exhaust on all together which i personally would never do. the longer you leave those things attached and untouched the more of a fight they’ll put up when you go to remove them. on the other hand if someone has already gone and done those recently then there’s no sense in having to replace those gaskets again. but then if you have to drop the head off at a machine shop you’re gonna have to remove all that anyways. everyone’s scenario or technique will be different at the end of the day. thanks for watching and supporting the channel!
@@mk1rabbithole I've read that lubricant isn't recommend with "strech bolts"? It gives uneven clamping characteristics! Reusing stretch bolts is prohibited also. Thats all. That being said, my MK1 has been sitting in my garage for 5yrs now waiting on me to replace my head gasket😂! I've been so obsessed with FPV drones lately that I don't want to go back to working on cars, jus trollin everyone else's videos, lol! I love watching this channel tho!! ✌💪
J.FINESSE FLIGHTS hahaha yeah don’t forget that you’re not supposed to reuse head gaskets either 🤣
@@mk1rabbithole Lol!
awesome vid once again
can't thank ya enough for the support over the years, luke.
Legend thanks man!
hell yeah! hope it helps.
Does that Eurosport stabilizer bar really help? I assume on a gas VW GTI yes...probably not on a Diesel 1.6 liter. Probably doesn't make a difference. LOL.. good videos!!
Awesome video! I’m replacing the head gasket of my mk2 16v, this video helps me a lot! The same steps to prime the oil pump of the 2.0 16v?
i really can't say for sure if its the same location and "tool", but the overall process will be the same. glad the video helped!
25:35 What distributor is this and why does it need an adapter ring? I have 8v JH with dcoe40 and am trying to figure out the best solution for a new distributor. Thanks for the great collection of info and content about these early mk1’s.
it’s just a regular mk1 vacuum advance dizzy, the this is an ABA block in the video so the adapter ring is needed to fit the smaller mk1 dizzy into the mk3 block. thanks for the kind words!
Great constructive video, after all this I'm assuming it doesn't take long to get the rings out if you're going down that route?
thank you! honestly you can leave the head on if you're gonna just do rings because you actually want to take them out from the bottom if leaving the engine in. you'll have to access them via the oilpan and crankshaft so might as well take them out there anyways.
Thanks 4 the vid! Link to proper ARP hardware?
I know this video is old. But wondering what engine this is. I’m assuming full ABA due to the crossflow. I have a aba/jh swap currently which is counter flow and looking for a head thats XFlow so my carbs sit in front to have room for velocity stacks.
My next option is just to go full 1.8 16v or building a abf clone since I already have a 2.0 block.
Excellent Video. Can you do one for settled the timing? Thanks
so the end of this video loosely covers timing the motor, if it’s still a bit confusing i can try to make a more dedicated/organized video this winter.
Timing marks after headgasket replacement
What do you mean "ARP stuff"?
Hey idk if you respond to comments or take requests but I’m having a hell of a time adjusting my shifter linkage on my mk1 5speed. It feels like it’s not moving over enough to go into fifth gear and has trouble going into 2nd. I just replaced all bushings and the ball and spring. if you know can you please explain it to me?
sorry for the delayed response. they make an alignment tool that snaps in and hold the shift tower where it needs to be to line every thing up. theres also a trick with a radio cassette tape but you’ll have to look that one up for a proper explanation. i’ve always just eyeballed it and gone with trial and error.
can i put a mk1 1.3 top on a 1.8 block and what is the steps i must take
i don’t know, you’ll have to try asking elsewhere or looking on the forums to see. i have never heard of someone doing or wanting to do that.
is it the same thing on european 1.5 petrol 70hp?
i’m not at all sure honestly, overall process will be the same though. remove stuff from head, remove head, check replacement or current head for flatness, torque to head gasket/manufacturers specifications.
The last two steps are for the stretch bolts never ever reuse your stretch bolts
i reused the same set of stretch bolts 3 times, the 2nd time was on a high compression high revving head without a single issue whatsoever. i beat the dog shit out of that motor on a daily basis. i always say you shouldn’t reuse them unless you have to, but to say you should “never ever” is silly.
My advice is actually to- not remove the manifolds.
No need to on a mk1, or aba.
You can remove them on the bench but I’ve fixed many- a bent valve or blown head gasket without removing either manifold.
If the hardest part is dealing with exhaust hardware, why not skip that part?
No reason bolts need to come out just because.
But I enjoyed your video.
I am working on my mechanical vnt turbo control today.
And here I am.
So not making great progress. ...
on the other hand the longer you leave that exhaust hardware untouched, the more of a fight they’ll put up when the day comes you have to mess with the exhaust. also, 90% of people removing their head for machine/valvetrain work are going to bring it to a machine shop which is gonna expect you to take off the manifolds anyways. everyone’s scenario is different, which is why everything in this video is my personal preference.
Btw, you are doing amazing on your videos.
Great editing.
Camera work is better than ever.
Good job
Never reuse head bolts.You'll end up replacing your cylinder head. Go figure...
these 3x used head bolts did just fine and would’ve continued to be just fine. clearly you didn’t listen whatsoever, but the head swap was due to a sheered crank pulley. prior to this head swap, i had these same (already reused) head bolts seeing 8k rpms daily. again, you’re clearly not listening because i advise against doing it if you don’t have to, but me and many others hve gotten away just fine with reusing them. they are 70hp tractor engines.
@@mk1rabbithole Yeah, OK bud.
@@mk1rabbithole When head bolts are torqued they are supposed to stretch. They are only made to stretch once. if you reuse them you have a good possibility of one of them snapping which will cause big problems.
@@russellrobson7632 good possibility you say? the 3+ times these head bolts were reused say otherwise. go away old man.
@@mk1rabbithole Don't take my word for it bud, 26:50 on this link.
ua-cam.com/video/P89ZDmjXROk/v-deo.html