If you have the type without shims, most dealers sell bucket lifters with different thickness specs. So you can just figure out your clearances and buy the correct thickness bucket lifters and put them in the corresponding positions. Personally I would do this over grinding valve tips.
Grinding valves doesn't sound like a great idea to me. You would have to be very careful not to change the properties of the metal or it will become too brittle.
You are probably imagining "grinding" valves on a bench grinder. That is not what I am referring to. Valves are "ground" or machined when they are made. They are also "ground" whenever they are serviced. To do this you need to use the right equipment - a "valve grinder."
Very clear, specific, good clearence and no more doubts. I just cleaned valves lightly near the pitting. Didnt touch the valve contact portion while cleaning but all valves need 0.1 mm more clearence. so will resume my work now. 🙏🏼.. Thanks
Great demonstration! 👍 I’ll be doing this work on my son’s 1997 Camry. Purchased a used long block and will be doing an entire re-ring job for safe measures and showing my boy the ropes on R&R 🚗
On the non adjustable buckets, according to Toyota , service manual , you just go to the dealership parts department, and get them in different thickness to get your desired valve clearance.
very help info. My Mech told me he was going to be checking the clearance on the valves cause he is getting a misfire on on of the cylinders for my S40. Was wondering how he hoped to adjust the lifters. Now i know he might have mixed them up when he removed them so he has to figure out which one goes where. Thanks.
A machine shop owner told me that if I mixed up those buckets and shim, to throw away the engine. All I have to do is to check the shims of the side that was dropped and follow specs. I did tell the owner that I was in a money bind and was fixing head gaskets on a tight budget. smdh! He could have told me that I will spend a couple of extra hours to fix my accidental mistake, not throw away the engine or make it seem like it was impossible. I did not tell him anything, but I thought, how did the manufacturer place those there in the first place? Roll of a dice? So I looked and searched and found this video. I do have the original shop manual to go by with. I am working on a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon 2.5L DOHC. I do have to say that regular valve lash adjustment seems easier in comparison.
I had no idea... I'm currently building a street performance engine for my 2010 ford focus. And just the other day my "buckets" or what Alldata calls "Tappets" Some fit no problem and other wouldn't fit to save my life. I have an OEM 2.3L head , with crower springs, going on a built 2.0L block AND APARENTLY ford makes 20 different buckets. The buckets I got go on a 2.0 head but the crower springs a wider...... And i checked under the buckets and damn near everyone of them have a different part number......
If you have shims this works. On many of the newer buckets, there are no shims and the only way to make the adjustment is to grind the valve stem tips.
The new shims are expensive but I have a little concern moving them as I was always told not move lifters around because the cam lobe and lifter wear different on each and should be matched together when reinstalled. I have the shims in my 1998 protege 1.5L
would have thought you would go for max clearance within spec, they are only evr going in one direction (closing up) and this is an expensive job if done at a shop
when you grind the valves you always take the abou the same amount that you grind out between the seat and face say 4 to 5 thousandths for small valves (ground out by lapping), well you grind that same amount off the end of the valve stem them if the lash was working great before (valve job) then you will have the right lash to run again i will mention newly grond valves will seat in over a week or so they will be tighter by 2 thousanths or less if you have to grind off the end of stem in the car tape all the head up with paper and mask tape just leave the ends stick through this keeps metal and grindstone out of the oil areas very bad
Mijne begint te blazen op de luchtfilter. Ook maar wat afslijpen van de klepsteel zoals hier vermeld. en de symptomen lijken zeer hard op lucht in de pomp. Na 2 jaar de oplossing.
I am looking for example of removing springs off deep seated valves, like this. Never knew what the bucket lifters where called before this. Im installing new valve stem seals that I ordered. I see one guy uses socket with magnet inside to grab keepers after bang back of socket centered on spring, with hammer. Looks easy. Im going to use compressed air, I guess 40lbs to keep valves from falling. To remove old stem seals he had washer that fit over with wire tied on to yank out seal. To install spring back on he stuffed Styrofoam from pool noodle in the socket and with socket handle on, pressed spring down, retainers are pushed in place and works. Since valves on my kia rio 1.5L engine are deep seated I know standard valve compressor wont fit. Wondering what your experience is on this? Another thing. I just started taking this apart but do hope I can skip pulling the head. Its a real carbon crusted buggar though. Ive been picking and vacuuming out as much chunks as I can. The dual overhead cams's cover -top bearings section surprised me as the only gaskets I see go around spark plug holes. Apparently no outer edge gasket. I carefully removed carbon crud from the tiny oil passageways and had major blockage on return holes that go back to the pan. So now I wonder, maybe the blockage was so bad that the top of heads where filling up with oil and flooding past seals. But, I will go ahead and do the seals. I coined a term, it needs a carbon-nectomy. ... So Im thinking Id like to drop the oil pan, leave plugs in, and pressure clean the head and hopefully clear out as much carbon as I can and especially force open oil return passageways with high pressure. I have heard other tricks like using kerosene with engine running to warm. Then flush. But this carbon is extra chunky. Scraping out and vacuuming really made a good dent though. When I first took off valve cover I see the rocker splashing oil on far left no. 1 cylinder. This was only cylinder with plug fouling, and engine was giving me the morning blue smoke. I probably only need to change the valve seal on the 1 cylinder. But the engine doesnt loan itself to working on individual components. Just to pull the top section of cams I have to remove timing belt, with all the covers, waterpump, crankshaft pulley, etc. which kinda forces me to buy a new timing belt. That and it does not have individual rockers which would have given me direct access to the problem valve seal, so I am forced to attend to all of them. Now it seems like I should have taken the whole engine out and replaced rings too. Im the original owner and I admit I dogged this engine by lack of oil changes. So now I pay its 2001, standard trans 5 speed and I miss it. Anyway, hope I didnt bend your ear off. Appreciate any info.
forgot to mention I threw all the buket lifters into a bag before I seen this video. I just checked and glad they are the oil squirting hydrologic kind. Lol...!
I HAVE A 03 FOCUS SE, 2.0 DOHC ZETEC VIN-3 & My engine utilizes the solid lifter caps w/out any removable shims, I don't have a chiltons, haines, or any type of book listing any of my tolerances or torque specs! I generally look them up online tho, I NEED MY OWN REFERENCE, I KNOW! MY zetec lifters are noisy & I have done all the work myself! tho, I did remove my camshafts & considered the gap & replacing my lifter caps! I installed new timing components & water pump & new main & rod bearings. lastly was when I put my motor back together did I consider the gap between my lifter & buckets. I need to look into their gap specs & replacing them because they are noisy & w/200k miles, I am sure there could be some deviation! wish you were specifically working on a 99-04 American, 1st gen focus.
great video it helped me understand why a friend's 1uz engine is ticking a little is because some of its valve clearance specs are slightly out. Would you have to take the camshafts out in order to take the valve shims out? I don't see any reason why you should! Just don't want to take off the timing belt
Yes, you can usually remove shims without removing the cam. Make sure the cam lobe is up, then carefully press down on the side of the lifter with some type of tool that fits and then pop the shim out with a pocket screwdriver or pick.
I have a 2007 pontiac vibe with the 1zz-fe. Is it possible to do this job with the engine still in the car? It looks really tight so I might have to pull it out.
If I am correct, your engine doesn't have the removable shims, so you would have to remove the valves from the cylinder head if any adjustment is needed. In order to do this, you would need to remove the cylinder head from the engine, but the engine can remain in the car.
When these tick, do they tick only at idle? My 2015 Sportage has a ton of ticking from the top end, but only from idle to about 1100 rpm. Also only ticks when the engine is hot. Started after I did a top speed run.
If they ticking because of too much clearance, it would be most pronounced at startup or when the engine is cold. You may have something else going on. Also, depending on your engine, you might have hydraulic lifters rather than bucket lifters. A collapsed hydraulic lifter could also cause that.
I have a '95 Maxima. It has lifters w/ shims. Can we eyeball the lifters and tell which ones have thicker shims than the others? Is valve clearance the same as lash?
Yes, valve clearance is the same as valve lash. You can't tell the difference by looking at them - there is only a difference of a few thousandths of an inch.
can u do this for a 2008 mazda 2.3 turbo,the lifters are like your descripton,,only thing im reading different number settings than what you say, like, .022 thousands,that number could be wrong but they were different than yours
Well, that is an absolute helpful video, so huge thanks to explain those different types of bucket lifters (we call them "Tassenstößel" here in Germany, by the way)! I gave you thumps up and an abo. I have low compression on first cylinder with my 2.4 Sonata from 2007, I think it has those unajustable bucket lifters from what I can see by taking the valve cover apart, am I right? I have around 5 Bar Compression whereas the other cylinders do have around 12-13 bar. Head Gasket seems ok (no oil or water mixed up, no pressure in cooling system) So could it just be valve lash to low which causes my compression issue (valve is not closing properly) and would you suggest to measure that before taking all apart and investigate the whole cylinder head? Can I find the specs for this specific engine somewhere on the internet? Can I get this done by myself (grind of the top of the valve I guess this is very delicate material) or is a machineshop needed to do that? I am very much looking forward for your helpful reply!
It could be a lot of things. You are right--you could have too little valve clearance, but that doesn't usually happen all by itself. In order to have too little clearance, your valve or valve seat would have to be worn. You could also have too much clearance, which would be caused by a worn camshaft or a valve that isn't closing all the way due to carbon build up. You also could have a burned valve. This happens when one of your exhaust valves starts leaking, and the hot exhaust gasses leaking past the valve starts to erode the valve until there is a hole in it. You could do a cylinder leakage test to see where the compression leakage is happening. You probably don't have a lab scope, but you could also acquire a compression waveform for that cylinder and compare it to a waveform from a good cylinder to see what is wrong.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Hey, just to give you an update, I was learning a lot from all of this. I disassembled the Head and as you suggested, a valve was clearly burnt, but it was the smaller one on the intake. Well, I gave the head to the machine shop and as you said, the seats were worn, which I could understand and also clearly see adn feel with my fingers by touching the surface of the seats which was not even anymore, you could feel that quite well with the valves taken apart. So that head was much gone from heavy LPG use. So I went for a used good one, I knew were to look at by now, the seats, valves and everything else looked all ok, flatness of the surface was ok also. I then measured the clearance of the valves that was good for some, not quite so good on others relating to the specs, which for that model (sonata 2.4 Hyundai) are 0.27-0.33 Exhaust, 0.17-0.23 for Intake as far as I can remember. In the buckets themselves there you can read some numbers like 3.100, 3.185 or so, and by changing them from place to place and some logical thinking, I was able to get the clearance all good, even no need to buy new buckets, because they have no adjustable shims or how you call it and are quit expensive. But it was much work, because in order to measure you had to put the camshafts on, and in order to readjust they needed to be removed again. So that was some camshaft on and off I never did before;) (Wheras you did it with the camshafts just put in loose, I decided to torque them to spec everytime measuring. Also, I decided to not go somewhere in between spec of valve clearance, but to go for the highest possible, because I want to use LPG again and I expect the clearance to become smaller over time. Now the head is on and the car is running very smooth, no loud noise from the valves ticking or so, no bad idling as before, full power as far as I can tell and no check engine light on because of a misfiring code. So I learned a lot of things and regarding the valve-section, it started with your helpful video. So thanks again a lot!
Man, what a great video! Totally understandable. Though, as a preventative public service you should show people the correct way to grind the valve tips and shims. UA-cam has a lot of cowboys that will take liberties with the words "grind" and "Surface grinder". LOLZ Thanks for the vid, Sir!
So I had to replace a couple valves and I'm finding that my lash clearance is about .02 inches too great. What's the best way to solve this? Should I just grab a course lapping compound and keep removing material from the valve face until I'm close enough or is there a good way to add material to these shims?
If you try to correct your lash by lapping the valves, you will be there for a very, very long time and will ruin your valves. The obvious solution would be to buy thicker shims. A more painful method might be to grind the valve seats (requires special tools) to get the clearance close to spec, then fine-tune your clearance by grinding the valve tips (requires special tools).
Toyota offers different thickness bucket lifters in small increments for their fixed bucket designs. My experience has shown the lash amount usually gets smaller as the engine accumulates wear resulting in the need for a smaller thickness bucket lifter.
That happens to a lot of people! You can try each lifter in each position until you find the right combination that fits within specification. Some of the lifters may have the exact same clearance as others, so there is likely more than one combination that will work. If you have made changes (ground valves or seats) you will need to adjust the clearance on all of them anyway, so it probably doesn't matter that much any more.
Anything is possible with the right skills, equipment, and budget. However, it is not usually feasible to change the design of the lifters. You likely have to stick with the way it was designed.
Don't grind the bucket. However, if you have shim that is removable from the bucket, you can grind the bottom of the shim, where the hardened surface doesn't matter. If you grind the tip of the valve stem, you should never take off more than 0.020". To be honest, you generally shouldn't need to ever grind more than 0.001"-0.003" from the tip.
No, not unless the surfaces of the lifter or the lifter bore in the cylinder head are damaged. Sometimes people damage the aluminum in the lifter bores when removing valve springs. This can cause problems, but if you are careful, you may be able to fix that damage with ScotchBrite, then clean the cylinder heads.
That's what you would think . . . but it doesn't change at all as long as your camshafts are resting fully in their bores when you measure. That's why you should only install one lifter at a time--so the other lifters don't raise the camshaft out of its bores. That is also why I hold the cam with my other hand so that I don't accidentally lift the camshaft when I insert a feeler gauge that is thicker than the lash. We do it this way on every engine. I was taught this trick by a machinist who rebuilds hundreds of engines a year. However, I always double-check my measurements once everything is assembled and torqued. By the way, if you torque your camshaft caps multiple times on an aluminum head, you will strip the threads more often. Each time you torque the bolts, the the threads become slightly more fatigued, so I strive to only torque them once!
@@JustinMillerAutomotive I have a Mazda/Ford I4 2.3l with solid lifters. I got all my exhaust lifters to spec using the method of fully seating the cam and doing one bucket at a time. You are right that torqueing the cam down doesn't affect the clearance. But... when I went to verify everything was good I put all the lifers back in and torqued the cam down properly. Just like the manual says, I put the cam TDC and check the lash for cylinders 1 and 3. Suddenly all my clearances were 0.05mm - 0.19mm too big. I thought how odd, so I removed all buckets but one and then re-verified everything was in spec and they were. I'm hoping you can respond with what I may have done wrong or what is going on here.
Yes. You can remove the shims while the camshafts are still in. Just make sure the cam lobe is up, then pry down gently on the side of the lifter, while you pop the shim out with a pocket screwdriver or a small pick.
Hi! I need help I have a Toyota 4Runner 4.7L engine and it haves the last type of lifter shown on the video ;now ; the mechanic is telling me I have to change the head gasket;it’s that true? , and what are the measure for that engine? Thank you ... excellent video btw
If you have to make an adjustment to your valve clearance on that type of lifter, you will have to remove the valve to grind the tip of the valve. This means that you'll have to remove the head and replace the head gasket.
I have a 2001 Mazda 626 2.0 with solid bucket lifters. I replaced the valve seals now I’m ready for testing the valve lash. Would you recommend replacing with hydraulic valves?
I am assuming that you are asking if you should replace your solid lifters with hydraulic lifters? If so, I would not do that. First, I don't think you can find replacements for your engine. Second, there is probably nothing wrong with the lifters you have.
I know now that I can’t replace the solids with hydraulic. Just asking. I have bad valve ticking. I don’t know where I can find different size shims? Any suggestions?
Ticking noise only when its idleing? I thought i have this problem, but my engine ticks thru all rpm range, when it idles its quieter and when the car is moving its noisy
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Yes, mine has the little pellet shims under the buckets (between valve top and protrusion on bottom of bucket). I have a 2006 4Runner V8 2UZ-FE. I'm at a loss on what to do. Had probs, brought it to Toyota, and they said number 5 was showing valve stuck open slightly. Pulled cams on that side, removed all the buckets. Pellets were kind of stuck to buckets when I pulled them out (oil adhesion). When I removed the bucket in question on #5, the pellet was not stuck to the bottom of the lifter. I found it between the spring and head and had to pick it out. Not sure how that would possibly creep out during regular engine use. Very odd. It *could* have happened when I lifted the bucket out, but all buckets I was able to pull out with fingers except this one that seemed to be depressed more. No signs of wear or metal contact anywhere. Will put them back is and measure lash which previously was like .050 on that stuck valve. I also pushed valve manually. Spring doesn't seem broken, and there was no stickiness to valve as if it had gotten bent. So lost. Don't want to pull head(s). Perplexed. Any words of wisdom?
It sounds like you have .060 to .010 more clearance than you are supposed to have. I would look for a shim that is in the middle--about 0.040. In theory this should give you clearance of about 0.040, which is right in the center of your spec.
If the valve clearance is not within specification then it could cause low compression, burn a valve, cause a ticking noise, etc. You should always check if you've got it apart. If it is within specification, then you don't need to do anything. Valve clearance changes when the valve or valve seat wears.
Does anyone have the order, or at least the specs for the 1GRFE 4.0 V6, more specifically a 2004 4runner? I lost my footing and a few of the valve tappets fell out and I don’t know where they go, lol. Any help is appreciated!!
Hello, how do I know which lifter belongs to intake and exhaust? Since I already opened all of them, how can I find which one belongs with which? Thank you very much.
If you turn the head over and look at the valves, the exhaust valves are USUALLY the smaller valves. if you have turned the head upside down and all of the lifters fell out before you had labeled them, then you will have to check the clearances all one at a time until you get it figured out.
Who made up that rule? Grinding the tip of the valve will have the same result as changing the thickness of the shim. If the head is bolted down, it would be easier to change the shims. If the head is already off and you have a valve grinder, it could be a lot quicker and less expensive to grind the valve tips! On some engines, shims of varying thickness are not available and grinding is the only option.
so I used the wrong weight oil and 10w vs 5w and got alot of valve noise,, I'm guessing I have Hydraulic. going to have to sacrifice the recnt oil change
Yes, but if you do it correctly, as stated in the video, you son't have to install and tighten all of the caps and bolts every time you take a measurement and make an adjustment. Installing and removing the bolts that many times will cause the threads in the cylinder head to fatigue, making them more likely to strip.
I know this is an older video now ,but thank you for posting it. This was exactly the information is was hoping to find.
If you have the type without shims, most dealers sell bucket lifters with different thickness specs. So you can just figure out your clearances and buy the correct thickness bucket lifters and put them in the corresponding positions. Personally I would do this over grinding valve tips.
The guy is wrong, you are right. Toyota has 35 different size bucket lifters
" Valve Lifter"..
Grinding valves doesn't sound like a great idea to me. You would have to be very careful not to change the properties of the metal or it will become too brittle.
You are probably imagining "grinding" valves on a bench grinder. That is not what I am referring to. Valves are "ground" or machined when they are made. They are also "ground" whenever they are serviced. To do this you need to use the right equipment - a "valve grinder."
Problem is grinding requires the head to come off. I like purchasing lifters from the dealer that are the correct thickness and I can just put them in
Very helpful, thanks. I hadn't thought of just doing one cylinder at a time and so not having to bolt the cam down. Big time saver 👍🏼
Enjoyed this very clear program! Lots of good advice. Thanks
great job not too complicated and confused work by many mechanics.
Very clear, specific, good clearence and no more doubts. I just cleaned valves lightly near the pitting. Didnt touch the valve contact portion while cleaning but all valves need 0.1 mm more clearence. so will resume my work now. 🙏🏼.. Thanks
Great demonstration! 👍 I’ll be doing this work on my son’s 1997 Camry. Purchased a used long block and will be doing an entire re-ring job for safe measures and showing my boy the ropes on R&R 🚗
On the non adjustable buckets, according to Toyota , service manual , you just go to the dealership parts department, and get them in different thickness to get your desired valve clearance.
Great video, flogging cars in your tie after work, I can relate.
Great video, litteraly applies to all kinds of cylinder heads. Good job!
very help info. My Mech told me he was going to be checking the clearance on the valves cause he is getting a misfire on on of the cylinders for my S40. Was wondering how he hoped to adjust the lifters. Now i know he might have mixed them up when he removed them so he has to figure out which one goes where. Thanks.
Professionally and perfectly explained
this is a great tutorial, great video and clear explanation.
Thank you for explaining all the types!!!
Thanks so much. Kve been searching for ages and you told me exactly what I needed to know. Cheers
A machine shop owner told me that if I mixed up those buckets and shim, to throw away the engine. All I have to do is to check the shims of the side that was dropped and follow specs. I did tell the owner that I was in a money bind and was fixing head gaskets on a tight budget. smdh! He could have told me that I will spend a couple of extra hours to fix my accidental mistake, not throw away the engine or make it seem like it was impossible. I did not tell him anything, but I thought, how did the manufacturer place those there in the first place? Roll of a dice? So I looked and searched and found this video. I do have the original shop manual to go by with. I am working on a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback Wagon 2.5L DOHC. I do have to say that regular valve lash adjustment seems easier in comparison.
I have an audi a3 8l 2.0 AQY engine how can i know the proper valve lash specs thanks in advance and great video btw
I had no idea... I'm currently building a street performance engine for my 2010 ford focus. And just the other day my "buckets" or what Alldata calls "Tappets" Some fit no problem and other wouldn't fit to save my life. I have an OEM 2.3L head , with crower springs, going on a built 2.0L block AND APARENTLY ford makes 20 different buckets. The buckets I got go on a 2.0 head but the crower springs a wider...... And i checked under the buckets and damn near everyone of them have a different part number......
So which is better hydraulic bucket lifters or solid lifters?
Hi I have a question if these go out of spec would you have compression/engine power problems?
Yes you would.
You can get under bucket shims so that you do not have to grind the valve ends.
If you have shims this works. On many of the newer buckets, there are no shims and the only way to make the adjustment is to grind the valve stem tips.
The new shims are expensive but I have a little concern moving them as I was always told not move lifters around because the cam lobe and lifter wear different on each and should be matched together when reinstalled. I have the shims in my 1998 protege 1.5L
I have issues my mazda3 2004 sp23 makes noise from top of motor is it hard to adjust the lifter on this im from Sydney Australia 🇦🇺
would have thought you would go for max clearance within spec, they are only evr going in one direction (closing up) and this is an expensive job if done at a shop
when you grind the valves you always take the abou the same amount that you grind out between the seat and face say 4 to 5 thousandths for small valves (ground out by lapping), well you grind that same amount off the end of the valve stem them if the lash was working great before (valve job) then you will have the right lash to run again i will mention newly grond valves will seat in over a week or so they will be tighter by 2 thousanths or less if you have to grind off the end of stem in the car tape all the head up with paper and mask tape just leave the ends stick through this keeps metal and grindstone out of the oil areas very bad
sir,how do we identify if the valve are bent or crooked??
Mijne begint te blazen op de luchtfilter. Ook maar wat afslijpen van de klepsteel zoals hier vermeld. en de symptomen lijken zeer hard op lucht in de pomp. Na 2 jaar de oplossing.
I am looking for example of removing springs off deep seated valves, like this. Never knew what the bucket lifters where called before this. Im installing new valve stem seals that I ordered.
I see one guy uses socket with magnet inside to grab keepers after bang back of socket centered on spring, with hammer. Looks easy. Im going to use compressed air, I guess 40lbs to keep valves from falling.
To remove old stem seals he had washer that fit over with wire tied on to yank out seal.
To install spring back on he stuffed Styrofoam from pool noodle in the socket and with socket handle on, pressed spring down, retainers are pushed in place and works.
Since valves on my kia rio 1.5L engine are deep seated I know standard valve compressor wont fit.
Wondering what your experience is on this?
Another thing. I just started taking this apart but do hope I can skip pulling the head. Its a real carbon crusted buggar though. Ive been picking and vacuuming out as much chunks as I can.
The dual overhead cams's cover -top bearings section surprised me as the only gaskets I see go around spark plug holes. Apparently no outer edge gasket.
I carefully removed carbon crud from the tiny oil passageways and had major blockage on return holes that go back to the pan.
So now I wonder, maybe the blockage was so bad that the top of heads where filling up with oil and flooding past seals.
But, I will go ahead and do the seals.
I coined a term, it needs a carbon-nectomy. ...
So Im thinking Id like to drop the oil pan, leave plugs in, and pressure clean the head and hopefully clear out as much carbon as I can and especially force open oil return passageways with high pressure.
I have heard other tricks like using kerosene with engine running to warm. Then flush. But this carbon is extra chunky. Scraping out and vacuuming really made a good dent though.
When I first took off valve cover I see the rocker splashing oil on far left no. 1 cylinder. This was only cylinder with plug fouling, and engine was giving me the morning blue smoke.
I probably only need to change the valve seal on the 1 cylinder. But the engine doesnt loan itself to working on individual components. Just to pull the top section of cams I have to remove timing belt, with all the covers, waterpump, crankshaft pulley, etc. which kinda forces me to buy a new timing belt. That and it does not have individual rockers which would have given me direct access to the problem valve seal, so I am forced to attend to all of them.
Now it seems like I should have taken the whole engine out and replaced rings too. Im the original owner and I admit I dogged this engine by lack of oil changes. So now I pay its 2001, standard trans 5 speed and I miss it.
Anyway, hope I didnt bend your ear off. Appreciate any info.
forgot to mention I threw all the buket lifters into a bag before I seen this video. I just checked and glad they are the oil squirting hydrologic kind. Lol...!
I HAVE A 03 FOCUS SE, 2.0 DOHC ZETEC VIN-3 & My engine utilizes the solid lifter caps w/out any removable shims, I don't have a chiltons, haines, or any type of book listing any of my tolerances or torque specs! I generally look them up online tho, I NEED MY OWN REFERENCE, I KNOW! MY zetec lifters are noisy & I have done all the work myself! tho, I did remove my camshafts & considered the gap & replacing my lifter caps! I installed new timing components & water pump & new main & rod bearings. lastly was when I put my motor back together did I consider the gap between my lifter & buckets. I need to look into their gap specs & replacing them because they are noisy & w/200k miles, I am sure there could be some deviation! wish you were specifically working on a 99-04 American, 1st gen focus.
I have a 02 ford focus that's doing the something noisy from lifters did you every fine out how to fix the car
great video it helped me understand why a friend's 1uz engine is ticking a little is because some of its valve clearance specs are slightly out. Would you have to take the camshafts out in order to take the valve shims out? I don't see any reason why you should! Just don't want to take off the timing belt
Yes, you can usually remove shims without removing the cam. Make sure the cam lobe is up, then carefully press down on the side of the lifter with some type of tool that fits and then pop the shim out with a pocket screwdriver or pick.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive can you help walk me through doing shimless bucket lifters on a 2004 sonata theta1 gkfc 2.4 I4 dohc mpfi
I have a 2007 pontiac vibe with the 1zz-fe. Is it possible to do this job with the engine still in the car? It looks really tight so I might have to pull it out.
If I am correct, your engine doesn't have the removable shims, so you would have to remove the valves from the cylinder head if any adjustment is needed. In order to do this, you would need to remove the cylinder head from the engine, but the engine can remain in the car.
Thanks. Great information. Great video
Nice vedio ❤
When these tick, do they tick only at idle? My 2015 Sportage has a ton of ticking from the top end, but only from idle to about 1100 rpm. Also only ticks when the engine is hot. Started after I did a top speed run.
If they ticking because of too much clearance, it would be most pronounced at startup or when the engine is cold. You may have something else going on. Also, depending on your engine, you might have hydraulic lifters rather than bucket lifters. A collapsed hydraulic lifter could also cause that.
can you grind the inside of a bucket
I don't know of any way that would be possible.
I have a '95 Maxima. It has lifters w/ shims. Can we eyeball the lifters and tell which ones have thicker shims than the others? Is valve clearance the same as lash?
Yes, valve clearance is the same as valve lash. You can't tell the difference by looking at them - there is only a difference of a few thousandths of an inch.
By "bottom of the cam lobe" do you mean "away from the cam lobe"?
Yes 180 degrees away from the lobe point
can u do this for a 2008 mazda 2.3 turbo,the lifters are like your descripton,,only thing im reading different number settings than what you say, like, .022 thousands,that number could be wrong but they were different than yours
I also have a MZR DISI engine. We have solid tappets. Standard clearance on the intake is 0.22-0.28 mm and the exhaust is 0.27-0.33 mm.
Well, that is an absolute helpful video, so huge thanks to explain those different types of bucket lifters (we call them "Tassenstößel" here in Germany, by the way)! I gave you thumps up and an abo.
I have low compression on first cylinder with my 2.4 Sonata from 2007, I think it has those unajustable bucket lifters from what I can see by taking the valve cover apart, am I right? I have around 5 Bar Compression whereas the other cylinders do have around 12-13 bar. Head Gasket seems ok (no oil or water mixed up, no pressure in cooling system) So could it just be valve lash to low which causes my compression issue (valve is not closing properly) and would you suggest to measure that before taking all apart and investigate the whole cylinder head? Can I find the specs for this specific engine somewhere on the internet?
Can I get this done by myself (grind of the top of the valve I guess this is very delicate material) or is a machineshop needed to do that?
I am very much looking forward for your helpful reply!
It could be a lot of things. You are right--you could have too little valve clearance, but that doesn't usually happen all by itself. In order to have too little clearance, your valve or valve seat would have to be worn. You could also have too much clearance, which would be caused by a worn camshaft or a valve that isn't closing all the way due to carbon build up. You also could have a burned valve. This happens when one of your exhaust valves starts leaking, and the hot exhaust gasses leaking past the valve starts to erode the valve until there is a hole in it.
You could do a cylinder leakage test to see where the compression leakage is happening.
You probably don't have a lab scope, but you could also acquire a compression waveform for that cylinder and compare it to a waveform from a good cylinder to see what is wrong.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Hey, just to give you an update, I was learning a lot from all of this. I disassembled the Head and as you suggested, a valve was clearly burnt, but it was the smaller one on the intake. Well, I gave the head to the machine shop and as you said, the seats were worn, which I could understand and also clearly see adn feel with my fingers by touching the surface of the seats which was not even anymore, you could feel that quite well with the valves taken apart.
So that head was much gone from heavy LPG use. So I went for a used good one, I knew were to look at by now, the seats, valves and everything else looked all ok, flatness of the surface was ok also. I then measured the clearance of the valves that was good for some, not quite so good on others relating to the specs, which for that model (sonata 2.4 Hyundai) are 0.27-0.33 Exhaust, 0.17-0.23 for Intake as far as I can remember. In the buckets themselves there you can read some numbers like 3.100, 3.185 or so, and by changing them from place to place and some logical thinking, I was able to get the clearance all good, even no need to buy new buckets, because they have no adjustable shims or how you call it and are quit expensive. But it was much work, because in order to measure you had to put the camshafts on, and in order to readjust they needed to be removed again. So that was some camshaft on and off I never did before;) (Wheras you did it with the camshafts just put in loose, I decided to torque them to spec everytime measuring.
Also, I decided to not go somewhere in between spec of valve clearance, but to go for the highest possible, because I want to use LPG again and I expect the clearance to become smaller over time.
Now the head is on and the car is running very smooth, no loud noise from the valves ticking or so, no bad idling as before, full power as far as I can tell and no check engine light on because of a misfiring code.
So I learned a lot of things and regarding the valve-section, it started with your helpful video. So thanks again a lot!
Man, what a great video! Totally understandable. Though, as a preventative public service you should show people the correct way to grind the valve tips and shims. UA-cam has a lot of cowboys that will take liberties with the words "grind" and "Surface grinder". LOLZ Thanks for the vid, Sir!
better off having a lifter clicking than to tight you will burn the valve seat and valve if to tight and run it like that
Can you please help me out I mixed up my bucket lifters I don't have a caliper what can I do
So if my engine is 16v it will have 16 shims??
So I had to replace a couple valves and I'm finding that my lash clearance is about .02 inches too great.
What's the best way to solve this? Should I just grab a course lapping compound and keep removing material from the valve face until I'm close enough or is there a good way to add material to these shims?
If you try to correct your lash by lapping the valves, you will be there for a very, very long time and will ruin your valves. The obvious solution would be to buy thicker shims. A more painful method might be to grind the valve seats (requires special tools) to get the clearance close to spec, then fine-tune your clearance by grinding the valve tips (requires special tools).
Wouldn't the lash change again a little when you bolted the cams down?
i think that would be taken into consideration when the specs were made for the valve lash, but again im not an engineer
The measurement is usually done when engine is dead cold and the camshaft bolted down torqued to spec
Looking for the best way to grind the tips of the valve stem? I can’t find any info on it please . Thanks
You should use a valve grinder. Check out this video on grinding valves: ua-cam.com/video/sxQcZySsFEw/v-deo.html
can shim over bucket lifters be replaced with hydraulic bucket lifters on a subaru?
No, not unless someone makes a replacement part specifically for your engine or you know how to re-engineer your engine yourself.
Toyota offers different thickness bucket lifters in small increments for their fixed bucket designs. My experience has shown the lash amount usually gets smaller as the engine accumulates wear resulting in the need for a smaller thickness bucket lifter.
do they sale ? any parts number ?
What if the lifters were removed and now I don't know what order they go back on.
That happens to a lot of people! You can try each lifter in each position until you find the right combination that fits within specification. Some of the lifters may have the exact same clearance as others, so there is likely more than one combination that will work. If you have made changes (ground valves or seats) you will need to adjust the clearance on all of them anyway, so it probably doesn't matter that much any more.
What tool works best to take the spring out? I see barely enough room for a compressor tool to get in there
You can get adapter that fit over the spring, different sizes, on my motorcycle I use a 16mm adapter
Thank you ! This was a great help
Awesome video! Now I have a question, when you remove the cylinder valve do you use a valve spring compressor?
Yes. You will need a valve spring compressor in order to remove or install the valves.
Is it possible to replace solid buckets with hydraulic lifters?
Anything is possible with the right skills, equipment, and budget. However, it is not usually feasible to change the design of the lifters. You likely have to stick with the way it was designed.
Hallo!
Will grinding damage the hardened surface of the valve and bucket?
Don't grind the bucket. However, if you have shim that is removable from the bucket, you can grind the bottom of the shim, where the hardened surface doesn't matter. If you grind the tip of the valve stem, you should never take off more than 0.020". To be honest, you generally shouldn't need to ever grind more than 0.001"-0.003" from the tip.
very good video Justin thank you tony UK
Hey there. Working on a 350z some of the lifters are tight coming off and going back on the spring.. Do I need all new buckets?
No, not unless the surfaces of the lifter or the lifter bore in the cylinder head are damaged. Sometimes people damage the aluminum in the lifter bores when removing valve springs. This can cause problems, but if you are careful, you may be able to fix that damage with ScotchBrite, then clean the cylinder heads.
thanks Justin! Be Blessed
Thank you. Helped a bunch.
The clearance will change when the camshaft and caps are fitted and torque to spec
That's what you would think . . . but it doesn't change at all as long as your camshafts are resting fully in their bores when you measure. That's why you should only install one lifter at a time--so the other lifters don't raise the camshaft out of its bores. That is also why I hold the cam with my other hand so that I don't accidentally lift the camshaft when I insert a feeler gauge that is thicker than the lash.
We do it this way on every engine. I was taught this trick by a machinist who rebuilds hundreds of engines a year. However, I always double-check my measurements once everything is assembled and torqued.
By the way, if you torque your camshaft caps multiple times on an aluminum head, you will strip the threads more often. Each time you torque the bolts, the the threads become slightly more fatigued, so I strive to only torque them once!
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Thanks for the reply I will give this a go and see how I get along 👍
@@JustinMillerAutomotive I have a Mazda/Ford I4 2.3l with solid lifters. I got all my exhaust lifters to spec using the method of fully seating the cam and doing one bucket at a time. You are right that torqueing the cam down doesn't affect the clearance. But... when I went to verify everything was good I put all the lifers back in and torqued the cam down properly. Just like the manual says, I put the cam TDC and check the lash for cylinders 1 and 3. Suddenly all my clearances were 0.05mm - 0.19mm too big. I thought how odd, so I removed all buckets but one and then re-verified everything was in spec and they were. I'm hoping you can respond with what I may have done wrong or what is going on here.
Is it possible not to remove the cylinder head when replacing the shims on a Toyota vehicle?
Yes. You can remove the shims while the camshafts are still in. Just make sure the cam lobe is up, then pry down gently on the side of the lifter, while you pop the shim out with a pocket screwdriver or a small pick.
Can hydraulic bucket lifters be used in place of the non shim and shim style buckets lifters?
No. The lifters are made specifically for the engine, they are usually not interchangeable.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Thank You.
Hi! I need help I have a Toyota 4Runner 4.7L engine and it haves the last type of lifter shown on the video ;now ; the mechanic is telling me I have to change the head gasket;it’s that true? , and what are the measure for that engine? Thank you ... excellent video btw
If you have to make an adjustment to your valve clearance on that type of lifter, you will have to remove the valve to grind the tip of the valve. This means that you'll have to remove the head and replace the head gasket.
I have a 2001 Mazda 626 2.0 with solid bucket lifters. I replaced the valve seals now I’m ready for testing the valve lash. Would you recommend replacing with hydraulic valves?
I am assuming that you are asking if you should replace your solid lifters with hydraulic lifters? If so, I would not do that. First, I don't think you can find replacements for your engine. Second, there is probably nothing wrong with the lifters you have.
I know now that I can’t replace the solids with hydraulic. Just asking. I have bad valve ticking. I don’t know where I can find different size shims? Any suggestions?
Ticking noise only when its idleing? I thought i have this problem, but my engine ticks thru all rpm range, when it idles its quieter and when the car is moving its noisy
What motor?
Great video!
What about caddy 1.9 tdi camshaft adjustment ?
actually 4 types of lifters there is a schim under the bucket as well
You are right! Thanks for pointing that out. I haven't run into those very often, so I didn't even think to mention them.
@@JustinMillerAutomotive Yes, mine has the little pellet shims under the buckets (between valve top and protrusion on bottom of bucket). I have a 2006 4Runner V8 2UZ-FE. I'm at a loss on what to do. Had probs, brought it to Toyota, and they said number 5 was showing valve stuck open slightly. Pulled cams on that side, removed all the buckets. Pellets were kind of stuck to buckets when I pulled them out (oil adhesion). When I removed the bucket in question on #5, the pellet was not stuck to the bottom of the lifter. I found it between the spring and head and had to pick it out. Not sure how that would possibly creep out during regular engine use. Very odd. It *could* have happened when I lifted the bucket out, but all buckets I was able to pull out with fingers except this one that seemed to be depressed more. No signs of wear or metal contact anywhere. Will put them back is and measure lash which previously was like .050 on that stuck valve. I also pushed valve manually. Spring doesn't seem broken, and there was no stickiness to valve as if it had gotten bent. So lost. Don't want to pull head(s). Perplexed. Any words of wisdom?
I have a car I’m working on the spec is between 0.020m to 0.061
I’m getting .0120 on my gauge how do I know what size shim I need ?
It sounds like you have .060 to .010 more clearance than you are supposed to have. I would look for a shim that is in the middle--about 0.040. In theory this should give you clearance of about 0.040, which is right in the center of your spec.
Is it necessary? I have got solid one's in my car and it runs beautiful do I still need check the clearance?
If the valve clearance is not within specification then it could cause low compression, burn a valve, cause a ticking noise, etc. You should always check if you've got it apart. If it is within specification, then you don't need to do anything. Valve clearance changes when the valve or valve seat wears.
oh thanks man
I was taught to never use a magnet on a shim. You also forgot about the under bucket shim.
Why no magnet?
Great video, Thank you!
so im trying to find out the specs for a zj8 does anybody know what the clearance is for a xj8?????
Does anyone have the order, or at least the specs for the 1GRFE 4.0 V6, more specifically a 2004 4runner? I lost my footing and a few of the valve tappets fell out and I don’t know where they go, lol. Any help is appreciated!!
According to Toyota FSM for your specific model/year the intake valve clearance 0.006 - 0.010 inch and for Exhaust 0.011 - 0.015
Can I replace the shim lifters with hydraulic lifters?
No, you generally have to replace the lifters with the ones that are designed for that engine only.
Hello, how do I know which lifter belongs to intake and exhaust? Since I already opened all of them, how can I find which one belongs with which? Thank you very much.
If you turn the head over and look at the valves, the exhaust valves are USUALLY the smaller valves. if you have turned the head upside down and all of the lifters fell out before you had labeled them, then you will have to check the clearances all one at a time until you get it figured out.
Whats the tool name
just subscribed, good information to know.
Wow...a Mechanic with a white shirt and tie !!!...
very nice sir
Your not supposed to grind down any of them. They’re available with different thicknesses and are usually marked.
Who made up that rule? Grinding the tip of the valve will have the same result as changing the thickness of the shim. If the head is bolted down, it would be easier to change the shims. If the head is already off and you have a valve grinder, it could be a lot quicker and less expensive to grind the valve tips! On some engines, shims of varying thickness are not available and grinding is the only option.
Justin Miller I have been told that by many pro-builders. I have never heard of doing such things by manufacturers.*
so I used the wrong weight oil and 10w vs 5w and got alot of valve noise,, I'm guessing I have Hydraulic. going to have to sacrifice the recnt oil change
Great way to take a shortcut.
Great video 👍✌️
i thought you were supposed to put th cams on and then check clearance
Yes, but if you do it correctly, as stated in the video, you son't have to install and tighten all of the caps and bolts every time you take a measurement and make an adjustment. Installing and removing the bolts that many times will cause the threads in the cylinder head to fatigue, making them more likely to strip.
Is that 240sx head cylinder?
No, it's a Toyota engine.
Great video
The gap will get bigger not smaller when the head heats up
That’s a good video 👏
Good info
I wanna see u shave 5,000 of an inch of that!! Overall good vid
subscribed...!
Very helpful explanations but very stupid design .
Bucket lifters are a horrible design…
Thanks for the video!