I've done this job before, here's what I did differently: 1. I took the hood off. It was easier to just remove the hood than to mask the entire vehicle. YMMV, it largely depends on how many things you need to disconnect from the hood, and how heavy it is (my Ranger has an aluminum hood so I only had to deal with bulk; a steel hood is more likely a two-man job). Taking the hood off also gives you the opportunity to hang it and paint on a vertical surface instead of a horizontal one. With spray cans, this is better. 2. I wet-sanded with 2000 grit between base and clear coat applications to help reduce orange peel. 3. I spent on my primer and clear coat with 2k supplies but went cheap on the color, because it was black. If you have a tougher color, a body shop supply store is a good choice, but quality is more important on your primer and clear than it is on your color.
I am a subscriber from way back. One of the things you have done from the beginning is you don't edit out all the bloopers or your mistakes. It makes so much more "real" so when we screw up we don't feel bad. Thanks for another very practical and actually doable fix. PS That looks like Fallbrook
I am a 40+ year combination collision repair shop owner. I got quite a chuckle when you started sanding with 600 on that hood. I have people come in wanting work like that performed. I won't do it. I'm glad there are guys like you to show them how to patch up their paint. Because, when the remaining clear that you covered up finishes coming off, it will take all that material you sprayed over it with it. That's why I say it's a patch job. You covered the problem. You didn't fix the problem. But it does look better than it did, to some folks. To me, it's more of a mess than it was. Lol. But your methods are fairly solid. With the exception of not stripping all the old clear and base down to the undercoats, or bare metal. You primed it 2 times, you could have stripped it and done it correctly with another hour of sanding in the beginning. I'll watch more of your content and try to be nice. Lol.
You’re an arrogant greedy body shop owner who rips people off especially through insurance companies. Some people can’t afford 5k for a partial paint job. Leave the guy alone. Chuckle DsNutz😊
@@kingboy19971 almost everything. protecting the bare metal with an etching primer is useful for allowing it to set for a time before finishing the surface prep work. Using a filler and/ or a high build primer to fill any imperfections in the metal from the sanding/ stripping or hail, golf balls, etc is important. Sanding the final primer with 600 to 800 grit prior to applying the base color is important for a smooth uniform color. Keeping the surface clean of dirt and contaminants up to the point of clear coat application will help with the final shine and appearance. Its hard to get a good finish with a spray can, on a large surface, with no control of the thinner used in the color and clear. Spray can material is normally formulated to dry fast. Fast is not great for color and clear. Matched to the ambient air temperature and surface temperature is preferred. There's more, but these are the high points. IMHO the video is good basic info. The clear he feathered and primed, colored, and clear coated over will fail, taking his material with it. The other thing, stripping the panel to bare metal will allow the applied material to dry, shrink, and cure uniformly. Priming over old substrates will show up as rings in the new paint job in a short time. Long term the old material will fail, recreating the original problem.
@@davidmorton8170of course. That's the best that truck is gonna get. Of course there are better ways to do it. This is the internet. It always gonna get some "expert" that would do this or that. Or would charge this much because they are gods gift to whatever. Lmaoooo. Imagine sanding that old ass hood down to bare metal. Whoever suggested that is out of their mind.
There's a lazier/easier way - get some laquer & varnish remover spray - they do it in aerosols.. spray it on the clearcoat, let it work, use a plastic scraper to scrape off the old clear. Wash the panel down well, use a grey scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff the original base & provide a key... spray on fresh clearcoat.. Go have a beer. :-)
Love this tip. Going to store the information in my commodore 64. I say that cause my memory sucks, not to a say anything bad about your approach. I truly am going to save that information/write it down!
I really appreciate this video for showing the real problems and defects coming out from the spraying process and results. These are the outcomes faced by most of the people out there as we are not in the professional painting line. Appreciate the time and the effort putting into this video as I know how much effort is required at doing just that.
Did paint jobs in the past on my Honda's. Nice to see your tutorial, very good. For this goes the more you do this job the better you get. Just take the first step, dare to do it.
I LOVE IT !!! The old man I worked for in my first body shop told me. You paint with your body, not your arm . Yes I would love to see what it looks like after a wet sand
The problem with doing large areas with those spray cans is not that the paint is bad. Its catalyzed paint, its fine. The issue is the small amount of paint it delivers. It puts such a thin coat its hard to get it to flow and level out. You can never it it on right enough to buff either
These car companies should be paying for this. As a former detailer, we saw this constantly. People honestly should start holding these companies accountable, online. The clear coat quality, is unacceptable. Not even keeping it waxed, will stop it.
I remember watching your older vid painting the hood of your truck when I was attempting to fill in a peeling paint spot on my Crown Vic's roof. I'm back here preparing to redo the whole roof now several years later as more has peeled away. You can't stop that mid 2000s Ford paint from peeling😮💨
Same on my 2005 Grand Marquis, the roof panel over the rear window even has rust, and the center back edge of the trunk lid. I live in the desert, the rust surprised me. 😕 Strangely, the hood is still okay . . . Love the comments at the end😆
Great technique, looks great for paint out of a rattle can. We did a similar project on our channel a few weeks ago on our front bumper, it came out pretty nice for a rattle can. Keep up the great work.
Great video.i am about to do my Toyota Camry 2000 bonnet with rattle cans.i am a bit nervous about doing it.but after seeing your video it has given me a lot off confidence great job thank you
You never want to do continuously spray with an aerosol can......take long pauses between passes. The chemical propellant inside of the can needs to build-up pressure
I HAVE MISSED YOU SO MUCH!! So great to see you uploading again. Your videos inspired me and got me through some hard times. I started working on cars after watching you years ago.
about factory coded paint #, I have an older car and had the factory color mixed. I was repairing/painting a square foot or so of damage on a door. The problem I ran into was the cars color, "beach sand", faded over time, 20 years or so even with cleaning and regular waxing. The result was that the "original" factory paint code color that was prepared was much darker than what the color of the car now was. I went back to the store and the color was diluted. This was done 3 times and the final result was still noticeably different. Even if the entire door panel was painted you would notice the color difference between the rear door and the rest of the car. This might not be a problem with darker colors though.
It can be a problem with both. You can see it in the color difference here. It only look different because the quarter panel is faded. The fresh paint on the hood isn't. It's normal, and just a by-product of UV exposure over time. No paint can hold up 100% to direct sunlight forever.
Nice. I've done a similar DIY painting in the past. For the paint color, I highly recommend asking the employee on the available paint lines that they can mix for your color. Some lines are garbage. I would stay away from PPG Omni line because it sprays VERY thin, so you waste more time with extra layers. Since it's thin, I could barely finish painting half a fender with it. You only get about 4 oz of paint in a 16oz can, so the rest is just the gas propellant. I had better experience with Metalux paint line. I still haven't found a method to use the 2k clear without getting massive orange peal.
My 2006 Toyota Tundra had some serious paint ugly problems on the hood and the roof ascribed to age and exposure, I’m sure. A friend tried to repair the paint but that attempt failed miserably. If I had seen your video I might have tried your method. Instead just more than $2,000 later, a body shop did a beautiful job. But it’s a 2006 and I could have saved a boatload doing it your way. Great video!
Wow, a lot more work than I figured to get a passable DIY job - 4 coats of paint and 5 coats of clearcoat! Thanks for the instructions, though. I especially liked your "career advice" at 23:20, haha!
Great job as always 💕👏 I'm sorry I forgot your name. Have you sold any of the old fleet of cars you collected from auction? I miss updates on them. PS- 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol works well for wax and grease remover if you run out or dont have any
Excellent! Thanks for the video, this is helpful right now as I'm about to spray the clear coat on an old Forester bonnet and haven't had a stint in jail nor do I have a drug and alcohol problem. Will be doing it outside so I'll expect lots of 'orange peel'. Still, it can't be worse than the faded paint that was on there. Have a nice day.
Great job detailing the different steps and talking about why each is needed. Was hoping to hear what the total cost of materials ended up being (maybe I missed it) and the ballpark for a body shop to do the job. Thanks.
I'm wondering why you didn't take the hood off to paint it? Of all the panels it's probably the only one that feels easiest to remove to paint besides the doors. Great job though!
Weight, probably. A full-steel hood on a Tahoe/Suburban/whatever is heavy. For just one guy, you want to either have someone to help with it or a hoist for it. You don't want to drop it basically anywhere. You options are on the ground, damaging the hood, or onto the engine bay.
Thanks for the great content...the video was really good. One question though...just curious why you didn't remove the hood? I think removing four bolts would have been faster than masking it off...and you could have sanded the hood edges easier. And since this was a hood from a truck, it was higher so the simple fact that it would be easier to work on while sitting lower on sawhorses or something would have made it easier. You may have a good reason for not removing it but I was just curious what that might have been. Thanks!
Great video! Can you do and show for when the base paint is all cracked up and the clear is all gone. Cause i would hate to have to strip it all down? Any info would be very appreciated. Thanks Terry
Great video. I am going to try this with my old 07 Chevy Silverado. It still runs decent with 353,000 miles but the paint is looking rough. I have a Rotary Car Buffer Polisher Waxer, 1000-3500 RPM. Will this be slow enough for the sanding? I'm guessing I can use it for everything else so it would be great if I could use it for the sanding too. thanks,
Great job brother 👏... Great color and suits the truck... Who cares about negative comments 🙄 what do they know 🤔. Hey it reminds me of the last 30 years prime an top coating, did a guys street stock track car in left over enamel red, it was a jaw dropper for the customer when he picked it up, that night it went on the track and got smashed 😳👍 Iv airless sprayed demolition derby cars in left over house 🎨paint, customers lable it and gave it a number 👍 out on the track for a smash. I have had a fun job🎉🎉🎉 Keep it up brother love your app 👏❤from New Zealand supporters
What if I want to use a roller? Yep, like painting the rumpus room. One color background and a slightly different color on top with a texture roller. Just do it! No overspray, just mask it and roll away. Of course some sanding prep is needed for adhesion. Gonna try it.
Looks nice! I'm hoping to do this to my k1500 Chevy's hood it has paint chips and two big dents on both sides where my ex bf drove off with the hood popped and it slammed open, denting the metal right above the hinges 😢 it will be a fun learning experience and this video will come in handy I'm sure lol
literally been wanting to do this on my truck. I wanna fix all the rust spots. Is the proper way to do that to 1. remove the rust 2. spray rustoleum rust reformer (2 or 3 coats) 3. spray rustoleum 2in1 primer (2 coats) (I have heard some say you need to spray a self etching primer first but im not sure) 4. duplicolor basecoat(2-3 coats) 5. 2k clearcoat spraymax (2-3 coats). I really want this repair to last and not be a shoddy job. Thank you.
So that's the best approach to treat the small rust spots before doing this type of paint work? Sand the rust down? Then spray the rustoleum reformer, then the rust primer?
from what ive seen and read, yes. I have never done this before but I wanna do it right. According to what he said in the video, on all the spots where bare metal is showing you need a self etching primer.
I want to add if you really wanna do the 2k clearcoat get coveralls, a full face mask with organic vapor filter and gloves so none of that isocyanates get on your skin or in your lungs. If you dont want to do 2k clearcoat you can do 1k. The finish will not be as glossy but it will cost less and be less risky overall.
@@HermannTheGreat I wanna say 240 (80 safety supplies, 80 for 4 cans of 2k clear, 50 for basecoat, 10 rust reformer, 20 2in1 primer) if you wanna do 2k clearcoat and get the mask, filter, coveralls and gloves or 130 if you do 1k clearcoat. you might need a lot of cans if you want to do hood and top of your car depending on how big it is
Great video! I need to do a roof panel on one in the fleet and if I get the results you got on this hood, I’ll be very happy. On my roof panel, all of the clear is gone and most of the paint and now it’s starting to surface rust. Will I have to sand all of that surface rust down to bare metal? Thanks
@@myRatchets appreciate it. I’ll follow the link to your Amazon store and see what I can find. It’s an old high mileage car so it doesn’t have to be perfect but it would make it look a lot better. Thanks again. Was great to see a new video from you.
So you dont get streaks you mist the hood as the final coat then you sand it lightly with 2000 grit reason why is misting it leaves like sandy feel to paint, then you clear coat, forgot to say then tack wipe base coat after sanding then clear coat.
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No wonder people forget to tack it -you didn't list it even sfter saying how important it is.
Subscribed. You are well-spoken and articulate and straight forward with your explanations.
Tack Cloth ??
I remember watching your older spraycan videos many years ago because i was painting my civics hood. This brings back memories!
I've done this job before, here's what I did differently:
1. I took the hood off. It was easier to just remove the hood than to mask the entire vehicle. YMMV, it largely depends on how many things you need to disconnect from the hood, and how heavy it is (my Ranger has an aluminum hood so I only had to deal with bulk; a steel hood is more likely a two-man job). Taking the hood off also gives you the opportunity to hang it and paint on a vertical surface instead of a horizontal one. With spray cans, this is better.
2. I wet-sanded with 2000 grit between base and clear coat applications to help reduce orange peel.
3. I spent on my primer and clear coat with 2k supplies but went cheap on the color, because it was black. If you have a tougher color, a body shop supply store is a good choice, but quality is more important on your primer and clear than it is on your color.
Please see CHOPS GARAGE ...TALKING RUBBISH BUT ACTUALLY WORKED......I found it in the bin
How long did you wait after base coating to wet sand 2000 grit?
2000 GRITS TO FINE YOUR PAINT WILL PEEL OFF OVER TIME ITS GOT NOTHING TO STICK TO.
@rodobrien3488 I think he said in between the base and the clear? Not between primer and base?
good for flat colours but metallic colours should be painted orientated to their position on the vehicle.
I am a subscriber from way back. One of the things you have done from the beginning is you don't edit out all the bloopers or your mistakes. It makes so much more "real" so when we screw up we don't feel bad. Thanks for another very practical and actually doable fix. PS That looks like Fallbrook
Fallbrook…San Diego? Lol I live in Jeffery’s Ranch [76 and Melrose…aka Home Depot / the new high school.
…small world :]
Absolutely makes it a more enjoyable and pertinent video!
I am a 40+ year combination collision repair shop owner. I got quite a chuckle when you started sanding with 600 on that hood. I have people come in wanting work like that performed. I won't do it. I'm glad there are guys like you to show them how to patch up their paint. Because, when the remaining clear that you covered up finishes coming off, it will take all that material you sprayed over it with it. That's why I say it's a patch job. You covered the problem. You didn't fix the problem. But it does look better than it did, to some folks. To me, it's more of a mess than it was. Lol. But your methods are fairly solid. With the exception of not stripping all the old clear and base down to the undercoats, or bare metal. You primed it 2 times, you could have stripped it and done it correctly with another hour of sanding in the beginning. I'll watch more of your content and try to be nice. Lol.
You’re an arrogant greedy body shop owner who rips people off especially through insurance companies. Some people can’t afford 5k for a partial paint job. Leave the guy alone. Chuckle DsNutz😊
So basically a good sand job solves everything he did wrong?
@@kingboy19971 almost everything. protecting the bare metal with an etching primer is useful for allowing it to set for a time before finishing the surface prep work. Using a filler and/ or a high build primer to fill any imperfections in the metal from the sanding/ stripping or hail, golf balls, etc is important. Sanding the final primer with 600 to 800 grit prior to applying the base color is important for a smooth uniform color. Keeping the surface clean of dirt and contaminants up to the point of clear coat application will help with the final shine and appearance. Its hard to get a good finish with a spray can, on a large surface, with no control of the thinner used in the color and clear. Spray can material is normally formulated to dry fast. Fast is not great for color and clear. Matched to the ambient air temperature and surface temperature is preferred. There's more, but these are the high points. IMHO the video is good basic info. The clear he feathered and primed, colored, and clear coated over will fail, taking his material with it. The other thing, stripping the panel to bare metal will allow the applied material to dry, shrink, and cure uniformly. Priming over old substrates will show up as rings in the new paint job in a short time. Long term the old material will fail, recreating the original problem.
but for a car that is 30 years old, and getting a professional job costs more than the car is worth? maybe this approach is reasonable… 🤷🏻♂️
@@davidmorton8170of course. That's the best that truck is gonna get. Of course there are better ways to do it. This is the internet. It always gonna get some "expert" that would do this or that. Or would charge this much because they are gods gift to whatever. Lmaoooo. Imagine sanding that old ass hood down to bare metal. Whoever suggested that is out of their mind.
There's a lazier/easier way - get some laquer & varnish remover spray - they do it in aerosols.. spray it on the clearcoat, let it work, use a plastic scraper to scrape off the old clear. Wash the panel down well, use a grey scotchbrite pad to lightly scuff the original base & provide a key... spray on fresh clearcoat.. Go have a beer. :-)
That’s the correct way to the job retired auto body technician
But if it has bondo or putty, does it mess it up like paint remover does?
@@tonyt160 No.
Love this tip. Going to store the information in my commodore 64. I say that cause my memory sucks, not to a say anything bad about your approach. I truly am going to save that information/write it down!
Can you please specify what lacquer & varnish remover spray you use? Seems everything I can find will also destroy the original base.
Looks far more better than damage clear paint. Excellent job.
Thanks for the discussion about your sanding mistakes. Your credibility goes up when you discuss mistakes. GB
I really appreciate this video for showing the real problems and defects coming out from the spraying process and results. These are the outcomes faced by most of the people out there as we are not in the professional painting line. Appreciate the time and the effort putting into this video as I know how much effort is required at doing just that.
Did paint jobs in the past on my Honda's. Nice to see your tutorial, very good. For this goes the more you do this job the better you get. Just take the first step, dare to do it.
For those final words of dying industry and qualifiers, ya deserve the like. That, and the video was rather informative.
Great to see you're back regularly posting. I flip cars and get some good insights from your content. Thanks for your work.
Awesome! Thank you!
I was recently watching where a denim polishing/buffing pad takes out the orange peel well. Great detail, thanks for sharing!
Turned out great! It be nice to see a video on the wet sand and polish of that hood!
Coming soon!
@@myRatchets okay, I heard you :)
@@myRatchets Would more coats have eliminated the striping in the base? Or is this just an issue with the rattle can?
Lol 19:43 over spray dusting hell out of yellow corvette.
Standing next to a GMC and says we are cutting corners because its a FORD...lol I love it
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
😂04
He says it's an 04 truck
"04 truck" (2004 Yukon)
I LOVE IT !!! The old man I worked for in my first body shop told me. You paint with your body, not your arm .
Yes I would love to see what it looks like after a wet sand
Good to see you back. Content and humor never disappoint. Thanks!
The problem with doing large areas with those spray cans is not that the paint is bad. Its catalyzed paint, its fine. The issue is the small amount of paint it delivers. It puts such a thin coat its hard to get it to flow and level out. You can never it it on right enough to buff either
These car companies should be paying for this.
As a former detailer, we saw this constantly. People honestly should start holding these companies accountable, online. The clear coat quality, is unacceptable.
Not even keeping it waxed, will stop it.
Agree every chevy on the roads has this issue 🙄
Cars up north rust, cars down south get UV damage from sun and heat.
@@cheeseheadfiddle Cars near the beach get salt damage. Waxing a car should protect the paint anywhere tbh.
$40,0000 should buy quality paint imo.
I appreciated the honest presentation, even with the mistakes. Makes a more believable story. Thanks for taking the time.
I remember watching your older vid painting the hood of your truck when I was attempting to fill in a peeling paint spot on my Crown Vic's roof. I'm back here preparing to redo the whole roof now several years later as more has peeled away. You can't stop that mid 2000s Ford paint from peeling😮💨
Yep. My ford pickup pretty much has no clear coat left on any horizontal surfaces. Sun ate it all apparently.
Same on my 2005 Grand Marquis, the roof panel over the rear window even has rust, and the center back edge of the trunk lid. I live in the desert, the rust surprised me. 😕
Strangely, the hood is still okay . . .
Love the comments at the end😆
I'll see your Ford paint, and raise you a Saab!
Great technique, looks great for paint out of a rattle can. We did a similar project on our channel a few weeks ago on our front bumper, it came out pretty nice for a rattle can. Keep up the great work.
This was super good! I appreciate the tutorial. You covered a good bit of stuff commonly missed when learning this process.
Never thought someone could make clearcoat repair soooo hilarious!
Lol
Great video.i am about to do my Toyota Camry 2000 bonnet with rattle cans.i am a bit nervous about doing it.but after seeing your video it has given me a lot off confidence great job thank you
How did it turn out?
Turned out great after seeing your video thanks
Keep it going!! Appreciate the honest results and your devastatingly cynical humor! We need an avocado update !! :)
You never want to do continuously spray with an aerosol can......take long pauses between passes. The chemical propellant inside of the can needs to build-up pressure
I'm a body man of 30 yrs, every car that entered my shop for paint is washed with a 2% bleach solution to eliminate fish eye and other problems.
what is fish eye "problem" on a car? hever heard that description
Wow. That's a great tip.
Never have had an issue as long as the panel was cleaner properly before spraying
But you looks like 50yrs already
@@woihoi490150 years old with 30 year of experience
I HAVE MISSED YOU SO MUCH!! So great to see you uploading again. Your videos inspired me and got me through some hard times. I started working on cars after watching you years ago.
Good for you HK, idol hands can be the devil’s playground. Keep busy👍
about factory coded paint #, I have an older car and had the factory color mixed. I was repairing/painting a square foot or so of damage on a door. The problem I ran into was the cars color, "beach sand", faded over time, 20 years or so even with cleaning and regular waxing. The result was that the "original" factory paint code color that was prepared was much darker than what the color of the car now was. I went back to the store and the color was diluted. This was done 3 times and the final result was still noticeably different. Even if the entire door panel was painted you would notice the color difference between the rear door and the rest of the car. This might not be a problem with darker colors though.
It can be a problem with both. You can see it in the color difference here. It only look different because the quarter panel is faded. The fresh paint on the hood isn't. It's normal, and just a by-product of UV exposure over time. No paint can hold up 100% to direct sunlight forever.
I am simply amazed at the quality of your workmanship on this hood. Great 👍 job!
Nice. I've done a similar DIY painting in the past. For the paint color, I highly recommend asking the employee on the available paint lines that they can mix for your color. Some lines are garbage. I would stay away from PPG Omni line because it sprays VERY thin, so you waste more time with extra layers. Since it's thin, I could barely finish painting half a fender with it. You only get about 4 oz of paint in a 16oz can, so the rest is just the gas propellant. I had better experience with Metalux paint line. I still haven't found a method to use the 2k clear without getting massive orange peal.
Hey there Mr R&W, and fellow San Diegan -- good luck with the storm, hope there's no damage to your shop or orchard!
This is why body shops charge so much. This was the quick and dirty method and it still took a pretty good amount of time and effort.
Your always here for us DIY guys! Thanks.
Thanks for watching Wyatt.
A great job, very knowledgeable about your bodywork and the materials , keep making videos.
My 2006 Toyota Tundra had some serious paint ugly problems on the hood and the roof ascribed to age and exposure, I’m sure. A friend tried to repair the paint but that attempt failed miserably. If I had seen your video I might have tried your method. Instead just more than $2,000 later, a body shop did a beautiful job. But it’s a 2006 and I could have saved a boatload doing it your way. Great video!
Glad to see you are enjoying your new shop
I still remember that f150 u sprayed down back in the day 💯🙌 good memories !! Glad your back ❤️
I feel like hes learning with us...
He's cool 😂
LOL!
😂 no joke but thanks to him anyway for what he knows
😂😂😂
No problem with that
Thanks the only painting tutorials that is simple and thorough with explanation
Good to see you back.. let's get it going
Great video sir. I've done this several times with a little less work..same results. Turns out just right. More affordable than professional work too
Wow, a lot more work than I figured to get a passable DIY job - 4 coats of paint and 5 coats of clearcoat!
Thanks for the instructions, though. I especially liked your "career advice" at 23:20, haha!
I enjoy his work lesson and commentary. Kinda like a smart version of AL from "Married with Children" .
“I scored 4 touchdowns in 1 game” -Al Bundy
Great job as always 💕👏 I'm sorry I forgot your name. Have you sold any of the old fleet of cars you collected from auction? I miss updates on them.
PS- 50/50 water and rubbing alcohol works well for wax and grease remover if you run out or dont have any
nice to see ya back mate! hoping for more early to mid 2000's worked on to keep em on the road.
So happy I found you, I have an old Prius that needs the hood done ! Thinks I gona try it 😊
I love your channel. you have a good sense of humor
Hey nice video and thanks for making it real. As a novice, understanding all the steps you brought up are very helpful. Thanks for a great video
Excellent! Thanks for the video, this is helpful right now as I'm about to spray the clear coat on an old Forester bonnet and haven't had a stint in jail nor do I have a drug and alcohol problem. Will be doing it outside so I'll expect lots of 'orange peel'. Still, it can't be worse than the faded paint that was on there. Have a nice day.
you always do a great job breaking things down.
Ty for the knowledge. I have to do a hood on pops car, in similar condition as yours.
Am I the only one who caught him saying that this is an old Ford truck @ 0:22? lol, anyway looks great man and thanks for sharing.
04’ LOL
Not old ford
he also said "we'll cross that bitch when we get there." --and that's my new slogan.
😅😅😅😅 AS I WAS READING YOUR COMMENT HE SAID IT
O4 truck
I miss you homie.
Ditto
He just posted a video, what do you mean?
Me too.
Same here! Best DIY videos for car enthusiasts hands down
@@vortecmacs5j 0:22 jh
Would this technique work with a plastic pannel such as a hood scoop or a rear spoiler?
Great stuff and always! Can you do a video of fixing rust around the windshield?
Yeah…replace the car.
Always a good day when RandW posts! 👍🧂
Great job detailing the different steps and talking about why each is needed. Was hoping to hear what the total cost of materials ended up being (maybe I missed it) and the ballpark for a body shop to do the job. Thanks.
I like him. Very humble gentleman. Subscribed.
Why not alternate horizontal and vertical sweeps, for a more even base coat distribution?
Great job for spray cans. Please show us after you've done the final wet sanding and polish.... thanks.
I'm wondering why you didn't take the hood off to paint it? Of all the panels it's probably the only one that feels easiest to remove to paint besides the doors. Great job though!
Weight, probably. A full-steel hood on a Tahoe/Suburban/whatever is heavy. For just one guy, you want to either have someone to help with it or a hoist for it. You don't want to drop it basically anywhere. You options are on the ground, damaging the hood, or onto the engine bay.
You upload this after i butchered painting my bumper. Thanks 😅
Thanks for the great content...the video was really good. One question though...just curious why you didn't remove the hood? I think removing four bolts would have been faster than masking it off...and you could have sanded the hood edges easier. And since this was a hood from a truck, it was higher so the simple fact that it would be easier to work on while sitting lower on sawhorses or something would have made it easier. You may have a good reason for not removing it but I was just curious what that might have been. Thanks!
You did a great Job explaining and showing how to do a partial repaint job Thanks for your information and time to do the video
Quitters are wise.
I enjoy your vids.
Love your last comment about how to get a job at a body shop
How is the Orchard coming along?
Fantastic so far, we'll see if they survive Hurricane Hillary Tomorrow.
Great video! Can you do and show for when the base paint is all cracked up and the clear is all gone. Cause i would hate to have to strip it all down? Any info would be very appreciated.
Thanks Terry
Damn! So your more of a painter than a mechanic!
Looks good!
Great job ima try to paint my truck ! I si have a question what would you do different if anything if I wanted to change the color of the truck?
Great video. I am going to try this with my old 07 Chevy Silverado. It still runs decent with 353,000 miles but the paint is looking rough.
I have a Rotary Car Buffer Polisher Waxer, 1000-3500 RPM. Will this be slow enough for the sanding? I'm guessing I can use it for everything else so it would be great if I could use it for the sanding too.
thanks,
Great job brother 👏...
Great color and suits the truck...
Who cares about negative comments 🙄 what do they know 🤔.
Hey it reminds me of the last 30 years prime an top coating, did a guys street stock track car in left over enamel red, it was a jaw dropper for the customer when he picked it up, that night it went on the track and got smashed 😳👍
Iv airless sprayed demolition derby cars in left over house 🎨paint, customers lable it and gave it a number 👍 out on the track for a smash. I have had a fun job🎉🎉🎉
Keep it up brother love your app 👏❤from New Zealand supporters
remind me again how many bolts hold the hood on?
A 2k base coat mix is $52 per can. Laquer based primer dried a couple of days usually doesn’t interfere with most base coats.
Keep up with the funny personality bro bro learning don’t have to be boring
Nice video. What if you just need to fix/prime one area? Do you still need to sand and base coat the whole panel?
What if I want to use a roller? Yep, like painting the rumpus room. One color background and a slightly different color on top with a texture roller. Just do it! No overspray, just mask it and roll away. Of course some sanding prep is needed for adhesion. Gonna try it.
You can, but it's much more prone to fisheye and orange peel with a roller. There's a reason body shops use sprayers. It's much less of a PITA.
I love rattle can 2k jobs and I went looking for it and my favorite mechanic made a video about it after being missing for years
Looks nice! I'm hoping to do this to my k1500 Chevy's hood it has paint chips and two big dents on both sides where my ex bf drove off with the hood popped and it slammed open, denting the metal right above the hinges 😢 it will be a fun learning experience and this video will come in handy I'm sure lol
Thanks for the video. Just curious, how much over spray hit that C5?
literally been wanting to do this on my truck. I wanna fix all the rust spots. Is the proper way to do that to 1. remove the rust 2. spray rustoleum rust reformer (2 or 3 coats) 3. spray rustoleum 2in1 primer (2 coats) (I have heard some say you need to spray a self etching primer first but im not sure) 4. duplicolor basecoat(2-3 coats) 5. 2k clearcoat spraymax (2-3 coats). I really want this repair to last and not be a shoddy job. Thank you.
So that's the best approach to treat the small rust spots before doing this type of paint work? Sand the rust down? Then spray the rustoleum reformer, then the rust primer?
from what ive seen and read, yes. I have never done this before but I wanna do it right. According to what he said in the video, on all the spots where bare metal is showing you need a self etching primer.
I want to add if you really wanna do the 2k clearcoat get coveralls, a full face mask with organic vapor filter and gloves so none of that isocyanates get on your skin or in your lungs. If you dont want to do 2k clearcoat you can do 1k. The finish will not be as glossy but it will cost less and be less risky overall.
@@whojackson Ok thanks for the advice. What do you estimate it would cost to do a basic sedan for the front and top?
@@HermannTheGreat I wanna say 240 (80 safety supplies, 80 for 4 cans of 2k clear, 50 for basecoat, 10 rust reformer, 20 2in1 primer) if you wanna do 2k clearcoat and get the mask, filter, coveralls and gloves or 130 if you do 1k clearcoat. you might need a lot of cans if you want to do hood and top of your car depending on how big it is
Great video! I need to do a roof panel on one in the fleet and if I get the results you got on this hood, I’ll be very happy. On my roof panel, all of the clear is gone and most of the paint and now it’s starting to surface rust. Will I have to sand all of that surface rust down to bare metal? Thanks
Yes you do have to sand it to bare metal and also I would use a rust inhibitor. GL
@@myRatchets appreciate it. I’ll follow the link to your Amazon store and see what I can find. It’s an old high mileage car so it doesn’t have to be perfect but it would make it look a lot better. Thanks again. Was great to see a new video from you.
When checking the wet sanding for smoothness use your less dominate hand bc it's more sensitive than your dominant hand and you can feel the bumps.
I m curious if polishing and compounding revived the gloss and removed the orange peel? Do you have a picture or video of it?🤔
Very good. I like your videos. Great tips. I have been working with an orbiting polisher. Each time I seem to improve. Thanks.
Pretty good, thank you.
We'll call you Two Can Sam ;) (It's from an old cereal commercial.)
I have to do the plastic bumpers on my Mercedes W220. Any advice? Thanks for your videos!
To really smarten up that GMC, you should run a painting class and have the students do the roof. 🙂
Was that a clean 4 th gen prelude i saw in the background very nice ! Love those cars!🚗
Awesome vid wooo looks like a ton of work
It wasn't that bad, just a lot of waiting in between the work.
Any video of wet sanding, polishing and the results after that?
Instantly gave you a Thumbs-Up for the name of your channel. Great content too.
Be clean. Great advice for life.
Judging be the wind, the overspray of clearcoat on that yellow corvette is all over the place (20:05)
So you dont get streaks you mist the hood as the final coat then you sand it lightly with 2000 grit reason why is misting it leaves like sandy feel to paint, then you clear coat, forgot to say then tack wipe base coat after sanding then clear coat.
I did not know FORD made GMC Yukon. So you cut corners on the make?
He said I'm gonna let it sit in the sun for 24 hrs 😂😂 gwattaaafaa
Pretty good. BTW: A good multi steps polish could improve that a lot I think (included the orange peel)