Astra Z18XER Camshaft and Timing Belt Removal

Just a video guide on how to replace your VVT solenoids, camshaft phaser wheels and some tips for the timing belt replacement and removal.
Originally, I just wanted to replace the VVT solenoids but one got stuck. Things got a little out of hand but ended up okay in the end. Here is an index of different sections:
0:30 to 3:40 - Initial VVT Solenoid removal (more work later on in vid)
4:00 - 5:30 - Rocker Cover removal
6:00 - 6:45 - Timing Belt covers removal
7:11 - 7:34 - Locking camshafts with tool
8:34 - Removing burred camshaft phaser caps
12:18 - Removing stuck VVT solenoid
14:23 - Putting back plastic cover for camshaft phaser
15:58 - 18:40 - Torque settings for camshaft phaser bolts plus tightening
19:46 - Timing Belt pulley and idler install
21:43 - Getting timing belt on camshaft wheel teeth
21:46 - Why Universal Torx socket kits SUCK!!!!!
23:00 - Why a locking pin helps the tensioner to be in place
25:05 - OEM part numbers for this job needed

[@eastman4174]

Thats a great video, i have to change VVT solonoids and timing belt soon, have done it before without any problems but its good to know how you dealt with the snapped off solonoid, excellent video 👍

[@johnnytigs8503]

Thanks so much for watching. I'm glad the video helped. Yep, the solenoids was the biggest challenge. I couldn't find any videos that showed how to get them out when they get stuck but what I did will work every time. Just be careful, the plastic electrical connectors of the VVt solenoids can get brittle from heat over the years. Remove it using a jewelers screwdriver, not by hand.

[@tomharley7757]

Best thing to remove the vvt solenoid is spray a bit of WD-40 on them leave for ten minutes and twist back and forth a few times and they just release.

[@user-wh3yj1kn4i]

Hey Mate, looking for some advice. Working on a Z18xer. Cams sprockets are locked along with a plate at the other end (had to check TDC). The issue is when putting the new timing belt on over the two cam wheels - the belt is 1/2 tooth to tight - meaning the belt has significant amount of play (and the same when testing the old belt). I am also not able to stretch the belt to gain that half tooth. The effect of which is that it also impossible to get the belt on around the crankshaft pulley and tensioner etc. In looking at multiple videos, everyone seems to be able to put the belts back on with relative ease. Wondering if you have any words of advice.

[@johnnytigs8503]

You should be able to get the belt on
I don't have any advice other than what I have done in the video. I did this several years ago (despite the video being only a year old as that is when I made it). I looked at my video again. If you have a locking pin or something to put in the hole for the tensioner that will help. From the video, I left the belt of the idler and fitted it on the tensioner and camshaft phasers and crankshaft sprocket. Then I put the belt on the idler pulley after moving the crankshaft sprocket a little forward.
If you haven't look at my link in the description of when you put the belt on.

[@MyScotty7]

Did u sort problem out ok?

[@zarkodanicic]

Does this engine (Z18XER) have hydraulic valve lifters or does their clearance have to be manually adjusted at a certain mileage?

[@johnnytigs8503]

At about 150,000kms you have to add or take away valve shims so the clearance between the camshafts and valve lifters is correct. The valves are not self adjusting and need to have a major adjustment at that 150,000km mark.

[@dwilliams6346]

Obviously this was 2 years ago, and I don't mean this to be a harsh criticism but how long after this did you realise you left your crankshaft timing almost 10* out? That actuator rattling noise should've stopped with new parts but it was still very loud, so they were trying to fix the timing discrepancy when you started it for the first time.
I'm due to sort out my timing issue after replacing the crankshaft pulse ring and sensor, and already done a tonne of research before I start. To change the two actuators over you not only have to lock the two cams but also the crankshaft by the flywheel, ensuring the crank markings line up as well as the cams and actuators before anything is disassembled. None of it must move a millimetre the entire time. Then when you line up the new actuators and button the new bolts down pre-torque so you don't stretch them, you need to turn the crankshaft pulley two rotations in the direction of drive by hand, and then do another line up check, and if the bar doesn't fit into the cams at the back you need to reset everything again until it is perfect. TDC is absolutely vital for BTDC spark advantage.
I can imagine you had a very lumpy and angry Astra after that if this wasn't rectified. Did you get a P0315 fault code by any chance?

[@johnnytigs8503]

Hey mate. My car is perfect. I had no fault code and what you described didn't happen to me. Of course you have to lock up the camshafts to take the phasers off but that's easy because the cams have a slot in them.
The engine has a locking space underneath between the trans and engine and you do that to tighten the crank pulley (manual cars get away with it).
I don't know how you determined my phasers and crankshaft are all off in degrees when the notches and crank line up. Power is great, no complaints. 40,000kms later!!
My engine rattle ended up to be a dodgy water pump pulley with play on acceleration.
All the stuff you said is covered and in other videos so yeah, like I said

[@Deanyfromtheburgh]

Any elaboration on locking the cams?

[@johnnytigs8503]

You need the locking tool to put on the left side of the car (ebay sells the timing kit and locking tool together). I got mine for $65AUD.
To get the alignment, you can do it with one person but if you have two people it is easier.
When you get the timing marks correct, you should be able to slide the locking tool in. You may have to slightly turn one of the camshafts a little (which will require you to take the belt off...which you have to do anyway to replace the phaser wheels). Just use a good leverage bar/pipe over the straight bar when it is at the camshaft inlet and outlet phasers.
Use the cylinder head surface to line up the tool with the camshafts.
Sorry about the delay.