You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £350 now. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them.
I was getting ready to do this job, as after 5 months of winter storage the fuel pump would not run at all. Instead I put a couple of electric heaters under the gas tank for a few hours, then hammered the plastic tank a bit with a rubber mallet and she fired right up. I got lucky with that, hopefully it won't happen again. In the future I think I will start it once a month and let it warm up fully during winter storage just to keep things working. Thanks for the video, hopefully I will never have to do this!
I had a few of those false breakdowns before I had to change the pump. Unfortunately it is on the way out. Better to change it when convenient rather than getting stuck in the middle of nowhere in the dark like I did.
I must remember never to change my 56 plate 2.0D SE for one like yours, apart from the usual service items I have never had so many problems with my cat. Very informative videos though.
@@ib1314 I am not a professional mechanic so I could not guarantee any work. The best thing to do is find someone local you trust and show them the video. If they think it is too hard and want a lot of money - find someone else - it is not a hard job with simple tools.
Thank, you so much for you're helpful video. I'm going to install a small henge on the metal that I'm going to cut out that way if I have to go inside it again this is a lot better then dropping that fuel tank and under the fuel tank their is a steel shield under the fuel tank and I did not want to take all of that off to. thank, you again so much.
Hi, it's me again. I've just got the Jag back. New Alternator, new battery, new belt. Including a recovery to the garage = £550 inc vat, which isn't bad at all. He said it's a wonder the alternator didn't set on fire! He also said that jump starting another car is always a risk. It could have been that, that created the problem, so my jump leads are going in the bin. They had to remove the engine subframe and needed a special tool to slacken the belt tensioner as it was really awkward to undo. They removed the alternator through an access panel under the front offside wheelarch. It took two of them about 4 hours. I've just put the pin code in the radio so all is well again. Cheers.
Glad to hear it is back on the the road. I have not had to change the alternator which is lucky as you have to dismount the air conditioning pump as well. I have done a video on using jump leads on a Jag. ua-cam.com/video/MWBghZWoJ6k/v-deo.html
Brilliant video, very helpful. I may have to do this job myself but on an X Type Estate 2004. Do you know if the measurements from the edge of the front of the rear seats as per your video are the same or is the pump further back?
Great video. I just subscribed. I have a 2003 XKR convert that seems to have a pump problem. I can't reach back behind the rear "seat" to cut a port so am exploring the challenge of tank removal. All the videos are for XK8 cars and everyone is traumatized by trying to reach line connectors under the car to disconnect them, understandably so. I can't figure out what goes into those ports as I don't see any videos where there are hoses on the pumps that connect down inside the tanks to ports that go through the tanks. The tank diagrams in the Jaguar dealer parts pages for both older XK8s and the 2003 XKR don't show any underside perspective which might show ports. I have three lines coming out of the tank at the top, the other ends of which are all separable. Two lines seem to be for vapor collection. The right one has an aluminum tube that goes to the left side of the tank with a rubber hose that runs down the side of the tank and connects to the port on the floor of the boot. I can only find one reference to it by a guy doing his tank that thought it was a vent tube. If there are no other lines coming out of the pump inside that connect down in the tank, is that my fuel line, in which case it seems to me I can just disconnect the bottom of the hose and then disconnect everything else and wrestle the tank out. Your thoughts, Sir?
Firstly I am quite envious of the XKR but I have no experience of it. It appears to be the same as an XK8 but with a more powerful output from the supercharger. There are lots of videos for changing the fuel pump and I found one showing all the special tools someone made for unhooking the fuel lines. I wish you good luck.
great video! Thanks! Looks like Ill be doing this as fuel dripped onto the ground after I filled my X Type up at the petrol station. Been smelling fuel for a while too so am happy its finally shown me where its going from! Do you have any idea where it could be dropping from or its best to just cut this hole and have a look at all the connectors up top? Thanks again for the great video!
Seems unlikely it will be coming out of the top of the tank. Check the connections to the fuel filter underneath. I did a video on changing it. ua-cam.com/video/Gsp1L3IGA4k/v-deo.html
@@johnnysevengun I think my seal has cracked at the top letting fuel come out when it's full. You can smell fuel in the car and more so when the seal is open for the pump area.
@@johnnysevengun it is that I'm sure. I fiddled around with it last night and noticed it was moving quite freely even though the round ring seal was tight as anything. Then this morning I go out to discover a pool of fuel in that whole round area!!!! So i am sure I have disturbed an already brittle/failing seal and fuel now is just seeping out (i have a full bloody tank!) typical hey haha!
@@johnnysevengun undid the fuel pump housing. The seal was half dangling in the tank of fuel underneath. So have discovered what the problem is. Getting the fuel pump back down with the seal now seated properly and trying to tighten the round screw thing seems like a 2 person job! Any tips for that?? Thanks to your video aswell I ended up cutting all around the inspection port (similar to your video wwithtin snips) as they made it that you can't get the top of the fuel pump out or the seal or anything. The hole just isn't big enough. Goodness what a silly design this whole arrangement is !
Holy shit! I have felt nervous just watching it! Well bloody done. Thanks a lot for another educational movie, I hope my Jag won't do this to me. I will get myself one of that nibbler tool. Me personally, I would try to use a rivets or rivet - nuts and some metal sheet to seal of that fuel pump, but nevertheless that was like watching some good horror movie. I think I can still feel adrenaline going through my body. Bloody awesome! Regards.
Thanks for the video - really helpful with my 2008 3.0 Jag recently. However I found I was able to replace the actual pump by leaving the corrugated pipe connected and taking the plastic gubbins apart. Meant I could put in a new pump (approx £35 from Ebay) rather than risk a second hand item. Tempted to put my photo series up on UA-cam and link them to this video. You happy with that? Andy
The car would start fine and run but then without warning cutout. The RAC man hit the fuel tank with a mallet to free it off and then i got home (just). As the pumps are now very cheap it would be worth changing it anyway if you suspect it.
Thanks for your support. I have found that there is one individual who automatically gives a thumbs down for every video I put up. Seems pointless subscribing just to be negative.
I know this is a rather old video now, so don't know if you reply to these anymore. I have a 2006 model that I now need to perform this operation on. How did you know that you didn't need to change the other sender unit? Just tried it out?
@@johnnysevengun Ahh Right. Thank you. I should have thought a little more about it. The Sender unit doesn't pump the fuel. My gauge also reads correctly, so I shouldn't have to worry about it either.
Bloody well done, just how much would you charge for doing this? I am looking at another X Type 2.0L deisel, 2003 model, but I am very unsure of my own heavy handedness and I do not know to trust a garage in this day and age. Well done, you have shown a novice, but a Jag Lover the procedure and most of the time I am baffled by sales and mechanical people time and time again. I like the car, but having had 6, I feel slightly hard done by and I have little time for Jaguar who now disown the car, it is still a beautiful and capable vehicle, I love to bits 😎
I don't know much about diesels but I do know the pump is not in the tank but driven off the engine. A quick look at Jag forums indicates it takes about an hour to change one. The pumps are expensive though. £120 for a secondhand one and about £320 new with a discount.
I had a problem before where the engine cut out as I was driving which I cured by changing the fuel pump fuse. This time it could only be restarted by hitting it from underneath .
Which one is the fuel fuse? I have a problem that when i accelerate from slow rpm my engine seems to misfire badly and shakes for a second (seems like it goes off).
Wow that's a lot of work! Is it really necessary to change all those parts that you change? Or are you doing it just for fun and to maintain the performance for a longer period?
I only change the parts I need to. I am not doing it for fun as I use the car everyday. The cold winter kills parts on old cars. This job is not actually that bad and would only take about two hours. Changing the rear shocks was a much more difficult job.
FANTASTIC VIDEO Helped me with my car! Dropping the tank to repair a fuel pump et c thats JUST there! stupid People preaching saying you should drop the tank blah blah blah Go for it then! It costs thousands and so time consuming. Wonder how many of these cars get scrapped because people all have attitude like that 🙄
That's good. Mine is a 2001 model. Maybe Jag realized and moved the port on later models. S-Types have two ports - one for the pump and one for the second sender.
@@johnnysevengun I've since discovered its leaking HEAPS of fuel at the top of the pump area so I am 99% sure my top seal has cracked (the green one in your video) fuel just keeps seeping around the edge of the assembly. Will have to replace the seal and see how I go!
@@johnnysevengun If you go to Scott Kilmer's video on this issue he said just to replace the fuel pump it will cost the owner about a 1000 dollars service charge
@@worldpeace32 I love Scotty - he's a real mechanic. But my garage will slit the floor and have it done in two hours tops. I could do it in about the same. If you look at the pinned comments you will see the difference.
@@worldpeace32 This is the answer I have given before: You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them
I don't think so. Diesel pumps are normally driven by the engine and will be under the bonnet and is a big lump. www.ribblevalleydiesels.co.uk/product/p4143/
Brilliant old chap! i didn't hear you say bloody hell when you realize that the pump was partially defective. i guess that what happens when you purchase a second hand part. so much for a 5 star for the eBay seller. video was very detailed to say the least, 5*. I was watching a video by scotty kilmer another brilliant mechanic that post videos on you-tube. He said that this was a $1000 job because the not so brilliant ford/jaguar engineers placed the tank on first then bolted the sub-frame over the tank. So you would have to remove the whole sub-frame to change the fuel pump. Nice hack and you were very careful. hopefully i dont have to do this to mine.
To be fair the pump was and is fine. I may have damaged the sender myself. It worked before I put it in. With regards to the sub-frame - very bad design. Th e S Types have rubber discs over the fuel pumps so you can change them easily.
The manual says ' Fuel is pumped from the tank to the fuel rail at a constant pressure of 4.5 bar, regardless of the amount of fuel being injected into the engine. Fuel pressure is constantly maintained by the fuel pump's integral mechanical pressure regulator which returns excess fuel to the fuel tank via a T-piece positioned directly after the fuel filter.'
Hi Concept Symetry Guitars. Owned a 2007 X Type. I've experienced for the second time wherein the car didn't accelerate (running from pretty slow) even I stomp on the gas pedal. What I did was to place it on parking, switch off then turn it on. I was wondering if what's the issue with this. After watching your video, no idea if it could be a bad fuel pump? Or is there something wrong with the injectors. Appreciate for your help. Thanks.
Its difficult to second guess from a distance. Check out Scotty Kilmers video on the X Type for checking the pump. ua-cam.com/video/JoWZz1ckRGw/v-deo.html. If the pump is working OK the other thing it could be is the switch in the accelerator pedal in which case check ua-cam.com/video/i91iQtYSfec/v-deo.html Faulty injectors should make the car run lumpy and bring up a code pretty quick.
Alguien que de favor me diga cuántas bombas de gasolina tiene el jaguar x tipe 03 motor 3.0 Es que mean dicho que lleva 2 bombas alguien que me diga. Bendiciones
Hundreds of cars are designed like this. For some unknown reason (probably some bean counter somewhere) the rubber covers were not put in the right place. The S Type has covers over both fuel units making it easy to replace the fuel pump.
Wow destroying the body, Jag had a Recall on these pumps, i changed loads, just syphon the fuel from the tank, Remove the tank ( it comes down easy ) , there's a tool to remove that ring and a torque setting to refit it, the pump itself isn't easy to fit to keep that seal in place. As i said before i pity the chap who has it after you. lol
You are completely missing the point of these videos. They are for people who want to do the job themselves without a specialist workshop and specialist tools. As for the tank coming down easy - that might be true on a new rust free car but certainly not true on a rusted up old car. As it is, my garage would be happy to slit the floor to get the pump out as it is a quick and easy solution that means it can easily be done again in the future. The pump only costs £13 new - nobody is going to want to spend hundreds on a pointless procedure. I think anyone reading this would realise that your attitude is precisely why no-one takes their cars to a Jag garage to get them repaired. As for passing the car on I have given it to my father and he is delighted with it. If it goes wrong again it is an easy fix.
jeffrey price I buy cars and sell them and I did this multiple times on jaguar the placement of the tank it s so difficult to work on the floor and it would take u hours of work .... that’s the easiest way to do it and I am 15+ tech
@@johnnysevengun Thaaaaaank yooouuu so much for sharing this. It took me 2 hours and cost 60$(replacement non oem) for the part. (Which was 3 days late.....! I haven't put the metal back into place yet, would this be reason to be smelling fuel? Also, can't get my navigation screen to come on, would you have any enlightenment on the matter? Already checked 3or so possibly related fuses.🏳🏳🏳
@@jlyni378 Well done with the pump. I can't help you with the you SatNav but I am pretty sure I have seen it discussed in the Jaguar Forums and it is a problem with the wiring in the boot (trunk).
@@johnnysevengun thank you, credit is yours. I love this damm car buuuuut it is a true relationship. Love hate for sure! Spent yesterday in the trunk stripping it out and tracking wires to fix tail lights uggghh 🏳 i have a parts car for it but i feel for those who don't. This one's a sport edition, the other isn't. Anyhow thank you for your info videos for people like me who don't wanna give up on the car they love but don't have the patience to send it to the dealer every time something breaks! ✌
No it is not. You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them
@@bharper2840 I completely agree. Somewhere a bean counter decided it would save a couple of quid if there wasn't one. Probably because they put two into the S Type! At the time it was common do this though. We had to slit the floor of a 1999 Ford Cougar for exactly the same reason.
@@johnnysevengun i definitely kno about the cougar cause i help my great grandfather change a fuel pump in one. But i was look to purchase a 2004 x type 6 speed manual and the fuel pump location has me second guessing on it.
whats the point of destroying car body to change fuel pump once per 10years.... some people shouldnt own Jaguar, if you cannot afford proper service, just buy Dacia.
bad guess ;) to remove fuel tank cost you only bit more time... yeah better cut the car around to get an access to fuel pump, changing headlight bulb cut the hole in a hood.
You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them.
You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £350 now. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them.
6 years later and i just found this. Incredibly usefull
I don't own a X Type (or a Guitar, for that matter) but I do enjoy your repair vids. Keep 'em coming!. Thanks.
Thank you.
I have to say, Well done!! Very informational, educational and very descriptive. I look forward to watching more videos from you.
Thank you. If you look at my channel you will see I've now done quite a few. One of the pleasures of having an old Jag!
I was getting ready to do this job, as after 5 months of winter storage the fuel pump would not run at all. Instead I put a couple of electric heaters under the gas tank for a few hours, then hammered the plastic tank a bit with a rubber mallet and she fired right up. I got lucky with that, hopefully it won't happen again. In the future I think I will start it once a month and let it warm up fully during winter storage just to keep things working. Thanks for the video, hopefully I will never have to do this!
I had a few of those false breakdowns before I had to change the pump. Unfortunately it is on the way out. Better to change it when convenient rather than getting stuck in the middle of nowhere in the dark like I did.
10k views on this it has helped a lot of people as mechanics drop the rear sub frame to change it and it costs well over a grand!
Wow - a grand. That's more than the car is worth!
I must remember never to change my 56 plate 2.0D SE for one like yours, apart from the usual service items I have never had so many problems with my cat.
Very informative videos though.
This was very useful, I was able to just buy a new pump for about £45 on ebay and it fitted perfectly into the plastic housing. So far so good.
Nice work!
Can you tell me the part number?
@@johnnysevengunhi mate, are you willing to do this for my jag for cash. Having the same problem!
@@ib1314 I am not a professional mechanic so I could not guarantee any work. The best thing to do is find someone local you trust and show them the video. If they think it is too hard and want a lot of money - find someone else - it is not a hard job with simple tools.
Thank, you so much for you're helpful video. I'm going to install a small henge on the metal that I'm going to cut out that way if I have to go inside it again this is a lot better then dropping that fuel tank and under the fuel tank their is a steel shield under the fuel tank and I did not want to take all of that off to. thank, you again so much.
That is a good idea. If you do it the way I did you only need to the bend the metal back.
Thank, you
Hi, it's me again. I've just got the Jag back. New Alternator, new battery, new belt. Including a recovery to the garage = £550 inc vat, which isn't bad at all. He said it's a wonder the alternator didn't set on fire! He also said that jump starting another car is always a risk. It could have been that, that created the problem, so my jump leads are going in the bin. They had to remove the engine subframe and needed a special tool to slacken the belt tensioner as it was really awkward to undo. They removed the alternator through an access panel under the front offside wheelarch. It took two of them about 4 hours. I've just put the pin code in the radio so all is well again. Cheers.
Glad to hear it is back on the the road. I have not had to change the alternator which is lucky as you have to dismount the air conditioning pump as well. I have done a video on using jump leads on a Jag. ua-cam.com/video/MWBghZWoJ6k/v-deo.html
Brilliant video, very helpful. I may have to do this job myself but on an X Type Estate 2004. Do you know if the measurements from the edge of the front of the rear seats as per your video are the same or is the pump further back?
As far as I can tell the tank is in the same position relative to the seat pan.
Great video. I just subscribed. I have a 2003 XKR convert that seems to have a pump problem. I can't reach back behind the rear "seat" to cut a port so am exploring the challenge of tank removal. All the videos are for XK8 cars and everyone is traumatized by trying to reach line connectors under the car to disconnect them, understandably so. I can't figure out what goes into those ports as I don't see any videos where there are hoses on the pumps that connect down inside the tanks to ports that go through the tanks. The tank diagrams in the Jaguar dealer parts pages for both older XK8s and the 2003 XKR don't show any underside perspective which might show ports. I have three lines coming out of the tank at the top, the other ends of which are all separable. Two lines seem to be for vapor collection. The right one has an aluminum tube that goes to the left side of the tank with a rubber hose that runs down the side of the tank and connects to the port on the floor of the boot. I can only find one reference to it by a guy doing his tank that thought it was a vent tube. If there are no other lines coming out of the pump inside that connect down in the tank, is that my fuel line, in which case it seems to me I can just disconnect the bottom of the hose and then disconnect everything else and wrestle the tank out. Your thoughts, Sir?
Firstly I am quite envious of the XKR but I have no experience of it. It appears to be the same as an XK8 but with a more powerful output from the supercharger. There are lots of videos for changing the fuel pump and I found one showing all the special tools someone made for unhooking the fuel lines. I wish you good luck.
great video!
Thanks!
Looks like Ill be doing this as fuel dripped onto the ground after I filled my X Type up at the petrol station.
Been smelling fuel for a while too so am happy its finally shown me where its going from!
Do you have any idea where it could be dropping from or its best to just cut this hole and have a look at all the connectors up top?
Thanks again for the great video!
Seems unlikely it will be coming out of the top of the tank. Check the connections to the fuel filter underneath. I did a video on changing it. ua-cam.com/video/Gsp1L3IGA4k/v-deo.html
@@johnnysevengun I think my seal has cracked at the top letting fuel come out when it's full.
You can smell fuel in the car and more so when the seal is open for the pump area.
@@Nthstar The white unit has a green seal in the top. It may have perished. I had to seal mine twice to get a good seat.
@@johnnysevengun it is that I'm sure. I fiddled around with it last night and noticed it was moving quite freely even though the round ring seal was tight as anything. Then this morning I go out to discover a pool of fuel in that whole round area!!!! So i am sure I have disturbed an already brittle/failing seal and fuel now is just seeping out (i have a full bloody tank!) typical hey haha!
@@johnnysevengun undid the fuel pump housing.
The seal was half dangling in the tank of fuel underneath. So have discovered what the problem is.
Getting the fuel pump back down with the seal now seated properly and trying to tighten the round screw thing seems like a 2 person job!
Any tips for that??
Thanks to your video aswell I ended up cutting all around the inspection port (similar to your video wwithtin snips) as they made it that you can't get the top of the fuel pump out or the seal or anything. The hole just isn't big enough.
Goodness what a silly design this whole arrangement is !
Holy shit! I have felt nervous just watching it! Well bloody done. Thanks a lot for another educational movie, I hope my Jag won't do this to me. I will get myself one of that nibbler tool.
Me personally, I would try to use a rivets or rivet - nuts and some metal sheet to seal of that fuel pump, but nevertheless that was like watching some good horror movie. I think I can still feel adrenaline going through my body.
Bloody awesome!
Regards.
I did think of making up an aluminium sheet but that tape I am using is used to repair the damaged wings of aeroplanes and is much easier to use.
Thanks for the video - really helpful with my 2008 3.0 Jag recently. However I found I was able to replace the actual pump by leaving the corrugated pipe connected and taking the plastic gubbins apart. Meant I could put in a new pump (approx £35 from Ebay) rather than risk a second hand item. Tempted to put my photo series up on UA-cam and link them to this video. You happy with that? Andy
Yes it all helps. When I did this it was not easy to get a new pump.
What was your car doing?
Not starting ? Mine is starting up rough when I put in reverse it turns off.
When I leave it running in park shuts off
The car would start fine and run but then without warning cutout. The RAC man hit the fuel tank with a mallet to free it off and then i got home (just). As the pumps are now very cheap it would be worth changing it anyway if you suspect it.
Why anyone would give this video a thumbs down is beyond me!!
Thanks for your support. I have found that there is one individual who automatically gives a thumbs down for every video I put up. Seems pointless subscribing just to be negative.
I did even before I read this message
Did your car entered limp mode? And the glow plung wores came up on dashboard?
Only diesel cars have glow plugs. This 2.5 V6 is petrol. It did not go into limp mode - it just would not go.
Is there a way to do this on a s type 2003 by not cutting the line that goes inside of tank, but taking it loose from other side sending unit?
The S Type hasa rubber cover over both the pump and the sender.
I know this is a rather old video now, so don't know if you reply to these anymore. I have a 2006 model that I now need to perform this operation on. How did you know that you didn't need to change the other sender unit? Just tried it out?
Yes. As I knew the sender was working because the gauge read correctly it was not necessary to change it.
@@johnnysevengun Ahh Right. Thank you. I should have thought a little more about it. The Sender unit doesn't pump the fuel. My gauge also reads correctly, so I shouldn't have to worry about it either.
What’s the part number I am having trouble looking for it but haven’t tooken it off
This guy has the answer - go to 2:40. ua-cam.com/video/Y5r1OMxA51s/v-deo.html
I have watched all your videos. Great info. I own from new a 2006 X Type VDP
Bloody well done, just how much would you charge for doing this?
I am looking at another X Type 2.0L deisel, 2003 model, but I am very unsure of my own heavy handedness and I do not know to trust a garage in this day and age.
Well done, you have shown a novice, but a Jag Lover the procedure and most of the time I am baffled by sales and mechanical people time and time again.
I like the car, but having had 6, I feel slightly hard done by and I have little time for Jaguar who now disown the car, it is still a beautiful and capable vehicle, I love to bits 😎
I don't know much about diesels but I do know the pump is not in the tank but driven off the engine. A quick look at Jag forums indicates it takes about an hour to change one. The pumps are expensive though. £120 for a secondhand one and about £320 new with a discount.
Thanks for the video the job only took me about 45min. 🤘
Very informative video, great stuff, what was the engine light code in the end?
I think it was P1199 but I couldn't swear to it as it was a while ago now.
What symptoms led you to believe it was a bad fuel pump?
I had a problem before where the engine cut out as I was driving which I cured by changing the fuel pump fuse. This time it could only be restarted by hitting it from underneath .
Which one is the fuel fuse? I have a problem that when i accelerate from slow rpm my engine seems to misfire badly and shakes for a second (seems like it goes off).
Wow that's a lot of work! Is it really necessary to change all those parts that you change? Or are you doing it just for fun and to maintain the performance for a longer period?
I only change the parts I need to. I am not doing it for fun as I use the car everyday. The cold winter kills parts on old cars. This job is not actually that bad and would only take about two hours. Changing the rear shocks was a much more difficult job.
Thank you.❤
Can you tell me what part number that fuel pump was?
This guy has the answer - go to 2:40. ua-cam.com/video/Y5r1OMxA51s/v-deo.html
FANTASTIC VIDEO
Helped me with my car!
Dropping the tank to repair a fuel pump et c thats JUST there! stupid
People preaching saying you should drop the tank blah blah blah
Go for it then! It costs thousands and so time consuming.
Wonder how many of these cars get scrapped because people all have attitude like that
🙄
This is weird !
My fuel pump seems to be under the inspection port where yours is not on the video at 1.40.
???????
That's good. Mine is a 2001 model. Maybe Jag realized and moved the port on later models. S-Types have two ports - one for the pump and one for the second sender.
@@johnnysevengun mine is 2001 aswell.
Its actually the 2.1V6 FWD
I think thats why ?
@@Nthstar That will be why.
@@johnnysevengun I've since discovered its leaking HEAPS of fuel at the top of the pump area so I am 99% sure my top seal has cracked (the green one in your video) fuel just keeps seeping around the edge of the assembly.
Will have to replace the seal and see how I go!
In vehicles nowadays there is a hole under the seat so you change the fuel pump very easily
That is correct. The S type was designed like that but not the X Type.
@@johnnysevengun If you go to Scott Kilmer's video on this issue he said just to replace the fuel pump it will cost the owner about a 1000 dollars service charge
@@worldpeace32 I love Scotty - he's a real mechanic. But my garage will slit the floor and have it done in two hours tops. I could do it in about the same. If you look at the pinned comments you will see the difference.
I guess it's a whole day job if you do it from below isn't it?
@@worldpeace32 This is the answer I have given before: You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them
Amazing video - I assume it would be very similar for the 2.0L diesel?
I don't think so. Diesel pumps are normally driven by the engine and will be under the bonnet and is a big lump. www.ribblevalleydiesels.co.uk/product/p4143/
Good job!
Brilliant old chap! i didn't hear you say bloody hell when you realize that the pump was partially defective. i guess that what happens when you purchase a second hand part. so much for a 5 star for the eBay seller. video was very detailed to say the least, 5*. I was watching a video by scotty kilmer another brilliant mechanic that post videos on you-tube. He said that this was a $1000 job because the not so brilliant ford/jaguar engineers placed the tank on first then bolted the sub-frame over the tank. So you would have to remove the whole sub-frame to change the fuel pump. Nice hack and you were very careful. hopefully i dont have to do this to mine.
To be fair the pump was and is fine. I may have damaged the sender myself. It worked before I put it in. With regards to the sub-frame - very bad design. Th e S Types have rubber discs over the fuel pumps so you can change them easily.
Hi, do you have a link for the pump positions plz ?
Does anyone know the correct fuel pump pressure for this vehicle???
The manual says ' Fuel is pumped from the tank to the fuel rail at a constant pressure of 4.5 bar, regardless of the amount of fuel being injected into the
engine. Fuel pressure is constantly maintained by the fuel pump's integral mechanical pressure regulator which returns excess fuel to the fuel tank via a T-piece positioned directly after the fuel filter.'
Where is the no located on the fuel pump
This guy has the answer - go to 2:40. ua-cam.com/video/Y5r1OMxA51s/v-deo.html
Hi Concept Symetry Guitars. Owned a 2007 X Type. I've experienced for the second time wherein the car didn't accelerate (running from pretty slow) even I stomp on the gas pedal. What I did was to place it on parking, switch off then turn it on. I was wondering if what's the issue with this. After watching your video, no idea if it could be a bad fuel pump? Or is there something wrong with the injectors. Appreciate for your help. Thanks.
Its difficult to second guess from a distance. Check out Scotty Kilmers video on the X Type for checking the pump. ua-cam.com/video/JoWZz1ckRGw/v-deo.html. If the pump is working OK the other thing it could be is the switch in the accelerator pedal in which case check ua-cam.com/video/i91iQtYSfec/v-deo.html
Faulty injectors should make the car run lumpy and bring up a code pretty quick.
Alguien que de favor me diga cuántas bombas de gasolina tiene el jaguar x tipe 03 motor 3.0
Es que mean dicho que lleva 2 bombas alguien que me diga.
Bendiciones
Can anyone translate?
@@johnnysevengun He is asking how many fuel pumps does the car have, he has been told it has two???.
@@toucan221 There is only one pump but two senders.
There is only one pump but two senders.
Nice job!
Good job well done
Hey where in the UK are You?
I may need your help
the fuel pump has gone on my diesel jag
I'm down south in Winchester....
I'd like to help but I know absolutely nothing about diesel cars.
Its common sense to put the fuel pump where it can be accessed easily, this isn't expected from British designers!
Hundreds of cars are designed like this. For some unknown reason (probably some bean counter somewhere) the rubber covers were not put in the right place. The S Type has covers over both fuel units making it easy to replace the fuel pump.
Fantastic thanks
nice video
Thank you. Hope it helps.
Wow destroying the body,
Jag had a Recall on these pumps, i changed loads, just syphon the fuel from the tank, Remove the tank ( it comes down easy ) , there's a tool to remove that ring and a torque setting to refit it, the pump itself isn't easy to fit to keep that seal in place. As i said before i pity the chap who has it after you. lol
You are completely missing the point of these videos. They are for people who want to do the job themselves without a specialist workshop and specialist tools. As for the tank coming down easy - that might be true on a new rust free car but certainly not true on a rusted up old car. As it is, my garage would be happy to slit the floor to get the pump out as it is a quick and easy solution that means it can easily be done again in the future. The pump only costs £13 new - nobody is going to want to spend hundreds on a pointless procedure. I think anyone reading this would realise that your attitude is precisely why no-one takes their cars to a Jag garage to get them repaired. As for passing the car on I have given it to my father and he is delighted with it. If it goes wrong again it is an easy fix.
jeffrey price I buy cars and sell them and I did this multiple times on jaguar the placement of the tank it s so difficult to work on the floor and it would take u hours of work .... that’s the easiest way to do it and I am 15+ tech
@@johnnysevengun Thaaaaaank yooouuu so much for sharing this. It took me 2 hours and cost 60$(replacement non oem) for the part. (Which was 3 days late.....! I haven't put the metal back into place yet, would this be reason to be smelling fuel? Also, can't get my navigation screen to come on, would you have any enlightenment on the matter? Already checked 3or so possibly related fuses.🏳🏳🏳
@@jlyni378 Well done with the pump. I can't help you with the you SatNav but I am pretty sure I have seen it discussed in the Jaguar Forums and it is a problem with the wiring in the boot (trunk).
@@johnnysevengun thank you, credit is yours. I love this damm car buuuuut it is a true relationship. Love hate for sure! Spent yesterday in the trunk stripping it out and tracking wires to fix tail lights uggghh 🏳 i have a parts car for it but i feel for those who don't. This one's a sport edition, the other isn't. Anyhow thank you for your info videos for people like me who don't wanna give up on the car they love but don't have the patience to send it to the dealer every time something breaks! ✌
A Good hand Cutter tool would be a lot safer after drilling small starting holes
Try watching the whole video before making a pointless comment..
Yeah those bloody seat clips.
So much easier to remove the gas tank to replace the fuel pump.
No it is not. You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them
Definitely will never buy a jag!!!!
Not any Jag? Remember these are 20 years old now.
@@johnnysevengun i get their 20 years old but jag coulda put a access panel for the fuel pump!!!!!
@@bharper2840 I completely agree. Somewhere a bean counter decided it would save a couple of quid if there wasn't one. Probably because they put two into the S Type! At the time it was common do this though. We had to slit the floor of a 1999 Ford Cougar for exactly the same reason.
@@johnnysevengun i definitely kno about the cougar cause i help my great grandfather change a fuel pump in one. But i was look to purchase a 2004 x type 6 speed manual and the fuel pump location has me second guessing on it.
@@bharper2840 Two hours work tops and the pump is only $15 if you have to do it.
whats the point of destroying car body to change fuel pump once per 10years.... some people shouldnt own Jaguar, if you cannot afford proper service, just buy Dacia.
How much do you think it costs to remove the fuel tank? A lot more than the car is worth. I would guess you know nothing about cars.
bad guess ;) to remove fuel tank cost you only bit more time... yeah better cut the car around to get an access to fuel pump, changing headlight bulb cut the hole in a hood.
You need to bear in mind that these videos are for people who want to repair their own cars. My Jag isn’t worth more than £800. To remove the tank is £800 ($1000) worth of work which you can’t do without a workshop lift. First empty the tank - there’s no drain plug you need a siphon and pump. Lift the back seat out -easy enough. Prise the grommet from the floor panel and disconnect the wiring, Jack the car right up high. Disconnect the fuel filter, the breather hose. Loosen the fuel filler clamp. Remove the prop shaft - it will be siezed on every screw. Lower the final drive unit by 75mm (drop the subframe - that will be fun) and suspend it with a strong chain! Slacken the other fuel filler clamp (nearly impossible to see). Disconnect some other hoses. Chock the tank and undo the bolts. Lower the tank with two people - it still has fuel in it. How many hours has this taken? Now you can undo the fuel assembly and fit the new pump. Now put it all back. How many more hours? Test the car runs. What happens if it does not? £13 version - lift out the seat, cut a slit in the floor, change the pump, seal the slit, test the car - all done in 2 hours max. 1/2 hour if you have to do it again in the future. The S Type has a rubber panel right over the pump - so do most other cars. The X-Type has some terrible designs flaws and this is one of them.
And you need a special tool to change the headlight bulb....
you are perfectly right, btw. not my point to undermine job you have done, just cutting body doesn't sounds right to my ears.