Take it from a technician with more than 30 years experience. Never ever use a Shop-Vac to vacuum the dirt off of the sending unit or anything else on the fuel tank! Fuel Vapor gets sucked into the vacuum and the electric motor inside the vacuum can ignite the fuel vapor in the vacuum, then you have a problem. Use a plastic brush and scrub it if you have to and blow it off with compressed air. If you're working in a home garage and have a gas-fired water heater in the garage like some homes do shut the gas off to it make sure there's no pilot light, fuel Vapor will accumulate in an enclosed space soon as you open the tank.
I have a buddy that's missing half of his face by using a screwdriver and hammer to remove the retaining ring. You would never think it would happen, but the left side of his face is proof.
Good mention on NOT vacuuming gas fumes. I can only imagine the sparking of vac electric motor, fast moving air gas mix would GUARANTEE a firey situation.
thats all good however he should of checked the fuse box to see if the right fuse was in there and the wiring because what did course the fual pump to go bad in the first place
@@peterrenshaw9237 good point peter. Test before you replace. especially a factory original fuel pump $$$$$....I might have looked into some others because there are so many issues. Might be someone else who makes one better.
One thing I've learned when it comes to getting fuel pumps nowadays is to never give them your old assembly as a core if they want it until your absolutely positive that you are happy with your new one. Also it's extremely hard to find quality parts nowadays, I always try to stick with oem parts especially with fuel pumps but it really depends on what I'm working on. A lot of times I'll get complaints with new fuel pumps that the gauge isn't working properly like theres still tons of fuel left when it reads empty is common or it's really noisy and doing weird things etc.. a lot of the time what I do if I have to get a new aftermarket pump I will try to reuse as many original parts as possible from the old one like the sending unit for the gauge if it was working. Also what I've done when the oem isn't available I'll take the old pump assembly apart and try to get a part number and information off the pump itself to get through the pump manufacturer like Bosch, walbro etc.. most everything you get at the normal parts stores is just junk, it either doesn't work right or fails quickly. It's gotten really bad.
DO NOT let your gas tank go Below 1/4. The pump uses gasoline as the coolant. Do NOT fill past 3/4 tank. That causes the evap canister to fail. AS for the Envoy. It has GM dashboard illness. I call it, will fail engineering. It is designed to last long enough. Like 150,000 miles(she dails it up. you dail it down, maybe not) or a bit more. By then your wifey (the dails it up person) will want a new, in style , cute car. Yes that is part of automotive design. GM don't care. If that was 7 passenger. A lot of them got stolen. Worth big bucks in Pakistan and other countries in that area. They have dual Front and Rear A/C with separate controls. About 50% of the 7 passengers also V8 to make, the 6 cylinder Impala and Camaro, go fasters, go faster. I still have a operating 5 passenger 2004 Envoy. One of the last no buffering, 460 A/C vehicles.(60 MPH 4 windows down). The 7 passenger got stolen. The I-6s wont fit in any thing else. Really good engines, not anemic. Maybe a bit too good for a Silverado work truck? Really who would by a all the gadgets, I-6, not for work truck? Yes 2 cylinders less wieght 295 HP and plenty of low end torque. Not enough? Turbo charge it. I guess 500 HP should be enough with small turbo? But you gotta have a V-8. Because it is cheaper. I heard the Brooklin Bridge is for sale. As for working on the Envoy gas tank or Filler neck on your back. It sucks. The filler neck even more. Especialy when the original spare tire is still in place 15 years later. As in frozen by rust in place. 4WD / AWS is great. Kill a tire with 40% of the tread left . Buy 4 knew tires. So what is the full size spare for? Ballast. Maybe why you put the spare in Corvair in the front? Might also help with not getting the license plate pushed into the back seat into the back seat. I am not a mechanic (drive train) any more or a engineer. I did do pre-production vehicle testing, when I got to old to wrench for a living. Engineering: What do you mean it drives like there is a flat spot in the carburetor linkage? FWD sucks money when you got to fix it. Cab forward also sucks money.
Most Japanese cars and some European cars have a removable cover that gets you access to the assembly. I don’t know why u.s. vehicles don’t do this. I suspect their throwing a bone to repair shops, as most people won’t do this job in their garages! It sucks dropping a full fuel tank! I ‘ve done many! On mY 98 k 1500. I cut a hole in the bed floor when I needed to replace the unit. Then I made a patch the covered the hole. It’s my truck, so when I’m done with it, it will be junkyard bound.
@@rack1850 they ask me for a core on certain ones very rarely and its always the assembly not the actual pump, you are correct it's not very often and I'm not sure what they do with them. Most of the time the core issue comes up is when I do a fuel pump that someone else just replaced and when I ask about the old one they say they gave it as a core. For example last week my friend did a fuel pump in his 1998 grand cherokee and it's giving him problems then when I asked him where the old one was he said he gave it for a core, that one really stumped me I even called them trying to get it back because I don't think anyone actually takes a core on those. I only brought it up in my comment to warn people to just hang onto it for a little bit if they are asked for a core.
On my 06 rt I used oem top portion of electroc feul.pump cause it has 2 pump on left pump sensor on right. I have bough aftermarket parts mechanics have did reviews on them and they do work I do and will say do not plan to keep an aftermarket part use just because it was convenient financially but when you can get oem feul.pump.
Jimmy you are the reason I keep my older vehicles on the road rather than trade them in at 200,000 miles like I used to. I own a 2003 and 2005. I was inspired when you said that you just keep driving that old suburban from the 1990's and keep on top of any issues at all times. Keep up the good work buddy!
My wife and me were walking down a street when we saw 3 or 4 guys pulling out the gas tank from under a pickup truck. They said they were replacing the fuel pump again. He said that was the 3rd brand new fuel pump he has replaced in the past 2 months. I asked him if those new fuel pumps were aftermarket from the local parts store and he said yes. I told him that I've heard aftermarket fuel pump never work very long and it would be better to spent more to buy the OEM fuel pump. That way you will save a lot of time and effort replacing the fuel pump every month.
Also a tip, they make fuel pump retainer ring tools that have locking teeth that grab into those slots you used a punch on. Just put the tool on a long breaker bar or big 1/2" ratchet and giver a yank and it pops right off. Now I understand its not a necessity if you hardly ever need to take a pump out but I use it a lot at work for diesel def and fuel pumps.
Worked for a government fleet and had to replace 18 in tank fuel pumps in 6 weeks. A month earlier we had received our winter gas, no ethanol, 3 vehicles, all police units lost 2 pumps each. All were 2014 and newer, Dodge, and Fords. Tanks were cleaned and inspected before installing the new pumps. I noticed the gas was an odd color so I called our supplier, who called the refinery, nothing was ever admitted to be wrong but a few days later the supplier pumped out our 3 in ground tanks and dumped 2,800 gallons in, no charge. No more failures either.
I fixed a bad sending unit in my Chevy Equinox by filling the tank to 3/4 full, putting in a can of gas cleaner, then driving for an hour over a bumpy, unpaved road. The constant bumping jiggled the sending unit, and combined with the cleaner, this dislodged the crud that was messing up the sender. May not always work but worth a try.
I did the same with the plan to replace pump regardless due to mileage/ reliability. If anyone Super doses with fuel treatment, do so Before changing Spark plugs. You don't want carbon chunks adhering to your new AC/Delco plugs.
Back in 2011 when I replaced the 2.2 L engine in my 2000 S10 I also replaced the fuel pump. Very similar procedure to your Envoy. I replaced it with a Carter fuel pump (Made in USA) only to have it leak in a few years. I then replaced it with a Spectra Premium fuel pump (imported, I forget where it was made) only to have the fuel gauge fail in a few years not to mention a persistent check engine light due to a less than perfect vapor seal. I finally “bit the bullet“ and purchased an “original equipment“ AC Delco fuel pump that believe it or not was made in Malaysia. No problems so far.
You're well beyond the stage of 'just a guy in his garage'. Even so, good for you to let people know, they should never trust one source, and never underestimate how difficult some tasks can be. The guys who make it sound too easy are those you can never trust.
@Rigo Che He says it because he is both smart and humble. This is a dangerous job and people could be injured or killed. Someone following his advice could try to sue him claiming that he gave "expert" advices that harmed them... Etc. Also he is humble and recognizes his relative lack of experience.
Had a 2000 gmc Jimmy. Had to have the fuel pump replaced every 9 months.even with oe dealer parts and repair.2nd worst car i ever had.bearing hub assemble and both ball joints up and lower every 6 months.yes dealer installed supposed oe parts there too.and let's not forget the junk transmission where at 75 to 80 k miles it throws code that represents 40 something different problems with the same code.and 2/3s of them require the transmission to be removed and opened up.3500 bucks a pop.and yes dealer rebuilt transmission 3 days after I bought it under the 90 day waranty.
I see the scratches on your hands , I also always get wounded especially when it comes to hose connections and handling fuel tanks with gas or fuel still in the tank . Gas sloshing around sure makes removal very difficult . Great video .
Then there is the awkward placement of all fuel tanks on really any vehicle. Some are just are real pain to get to and are far worse than having to undo a strap. I can only imagine you would want it as empty as possible since a full tank would be considerably more challenging to move around.
Awesome video! I just did mine on my 2001 tahoe. Also drained tank and cleaned it with dish soap, lots of water, and dried it. Works awesome... it's a 6.0L tahoe I am building. Next thing is to upgrade to flex fuel injectors I have on my bench. Pretty cool project. Love your videos!
In case anyone is wondering, or needs to replace their fuel pump in the future on any GMT-360/370 models. If an AC Delco Fuel Pump is not available, use a BOSCH one. They essentially were the provider of the AC Delco branded ones, its been observed over the last few years on various forums that the AC Delco pumps will have a BOSCH part/serial/model number listed on the unit, and they're a fair bit cheaper as well.
I planned on buying a Bosch from Rock Auto instead of the criminally overpriced 'precious' AC Delco. I know not to get a cheap brand, but didn't know AC Delco was essentially the same as Bosch. Thanks, confirmed!
Great video for someone not familiar with working on cars. I hope your channel is a great success, seeing your subs numbers I think you'll do amazing. Enjoyed the straight forward no bs approach. God bless
The thing that I like about, this guy is, that starts telling you don't do what he does, even though he makes a couple of mistakes that I can do another way, the video is very helpful
One *very* important thing you didn't address was the recommendation of replacing the fuel filter. Some suggest doing so every 5 years / 50,000 miles and others may say every 20,000 - 30,000 miles. Clogged fuel filters can cause: • Poor Engine Performance (Under heavy or high-speed acceleration, a clogged fuel filter may cause the engine to randomly hesitate, surge or sputter) • Hard Starting • Stalling • Random Misfire or Rough Idle I recently changed the fuel filter on my '93 Grand Cherokee and as I poured the residual fuel out of the filter itself - a *lot* of what looked like black 'silt' came out with it. Definitely was WAY overdue and am now worried there's plenty more where that came from, left in the tank itself. A huge amount of respect to you for tackling this large gas tank... on your back! They're difficult at times, even in a fully-equipped shop with a lift AND a tall transmission jack!
In about 2001, most manufacturers abandoned in-line fuel filters, instead putting the filter inside the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. Their reasoning was that the filter is better placed in the low pressure side, at the intake for the pump, so that higher pressure line is not obstructed by a filter further downstream. They considered it a safety feature. Check your owners manual for advice regarding how often to change the filter, but many manufacturers abandoned routine filter replacement.
I gotta say, I share the same enthusiasm when I work on my own car. The hardest thing I've done, was putting a new turbo in a 2008 VW GTI. And anyone with a Volkswagen knows how difficult it actually is to remove and install. They recommended pulling over sliding the motor forward. But I did it without moving it. Pretty time consuming, but rewarding.
On some vehicles you'll be lucky and the manufacturer has chosen to put an access panel to the gas pump, usually under the back seat or inside the trunk. Turns a pump replacement job from several hours to about 1/2 hour at the most as you don't need to remove the tank.
Absolutely! When I did my minivan it was my brother that suggested cutting a hole in the floor to do the job. Couple hours later I was done, including the ‘fancy’ removable cover for the access hole!
@@joeyoungs8426 Couple months after my post, my 2012 Cadillac SRX needed a fuel pump. Would have been a nightmare taking off the entire exhaust system just to get started taking the tank off. I went ahead and took the back seat out and cut the floorboard. In the case of my car I had to cut two openings. I figured out where to cut by watching a tank removal video and seeing where the openings on the tank are. I don't think I'll still have this car by the time the pump needs to be replaced again, but at least I know if it does then it'll be an easy job.
I have an 04 Yukon XL 2 wheel 2500 and my gauge quit suddenly. Pump was still working so I decided to do the job but waited 2 weeks to do this. I had no clue what was in the tank so everytime I went out I put $10 in it. When the time came I decided to go in from the top. I measured, remeasured and had my roommate measure where the pump was and decided it was under the L rear seat Soooo, I bought a "low sparking" cutting wheel, took the seat out, cut the carpet and with a sprinkler running under the truck ( go ahead laugh it worked) and my roommate with a fire extinguisher watching under the truck and another friend watching from above I cut a access hole. It took all of 5 min being very careful to just barley cut through the floor. And done. I was right on with my measurements and the pump was right where I cut. Rest of the job took less than 30 minutes. The scary part was I am glad I did not remove the tank. Those $10 stops for gas, the tank was completely full. It actually pushed the ring up and splashed when it broke loose I can't imagine what would have happened if 32 gallons dropped with the tank. Anyway replaced the pump, caulked a huge bead of auto body caulk and put a piece of sheet metal coated both sides with plastic dip on top of that and screwed it in and put the carpet back. Never know I was there. If I had to do again I would cut the floor out again in a heartbeat.
@@robertt8273 I did the same with my 2012 Cadillac SRX. That would have been a nightmare to remove also since you have to remove the entire exhaust system just to begin the job of removing the tank. Well worth the effort.
Good stuff Jimmy! Unfortunately I've done that job on both my Suburbans... That looked easy compared to getting those 42 gallon steel tanks out from under a Suburban. Thanks for sharing.
I removed the seat behind the driver ..exposed the floorboard..and cut an access hole on three sides ..then was able to remove the pump without dropping the tank ..pretty easy actually ..reinstalled ..and bent the floorboard back in place and silicone sealed ..
@@benhamster ..right ..for home garage mechanics like us ..not having vehicle lifts and other professional type heavy tools at our disposal..this makes a difficult time consuming repair quite easy ..
A lot of people have said to not use a vacuum cleaner. I agree. Even though you held the old unit in place, there was still fumes escaping. I would have used degreaser on it, & not taken it apart until it was clean & dry. I would not have worked in a garage either. Too dangerous. Petrol fumes are heavier than air. Simply plugging the pipe fittings, degreasing, rinsing with water, then let it dry would have been best, THEN remove the connected hoses on the pump, & remove the pump assembly. As for the fan idea, modern electric fans have an induction motor in them, thus lowering spark risk
how is that even possible to have electric wires inside the fuel tank ? i mean even if it's just 12v or less, isn't there a risk of small sparks that can light up the fuel ?
So glad I returned my AZ part. I trust the parts that are easy to replace from the brick stores. But when. It comes to hard to get to and hard to replace parts stick with OEM.
I agree if you know the replacement is superior to the original, but without evidence that it is, I would assume the second oem part is going to fail prematurely like the original.
I'd only use the parts store for things like brake parts and hoses, belts, that are hard to screw up. Anything critical, I either go to Napa, the junkyard, or the dealer.
I had to do the same thing with a 1997 GMC 2500 Extended Cab Long Bed and I must say, it is NOT a fun endeavour. Those sending units always go out. Awesome video and demonstration in this step by step "how to". 🖤
Great job well done..that's a fine vehicle you've got there a much better one than you could purchase now .very reliable and not too complicated to repair . definitely a keeper
I appreciate your honesty that you are not a pro and here I am watching your video even though I’m a pro and actually own a shop. Even a pro can learn from a DIY
I was about 3 when I decided to save Dad money on gas, so I filled the gas tank with a very similar looking liquid called water. I think now I'm lucky to be alive.
Probably cycling the key On/Off after disconnecting batt and turn an accessory ON to discharge capacitors that may store energy would be a good idea also . Great job and explanation btw , i sub'd 👍
Great video , That's a great replacement fuel pump worth the cost , just asking did you check the ohms on old fuel pump sending unit with the new one because the dash fuel gauge only works correctly with certain ohms. Thanks
I had a Pontiac Montana (3.7 V6) which had a similar fuel gauge issue. GM were adamant that the problem lay with the sulphur levels in the fuel and that if not attended to, permanent damage would be done to the pump which will not be covered by warranty. Went to the dealership and they gave me a bottle of conditioner which, had to be used ASP. It worked, it actually worked ! I tend to be skeptical of Main Dealers, but they nailed it this time. The secret was to correct the problem quickly otherwise the potentiometer would gum up.
yeah I used Techron also - can't remember what problem it fixed though. hahahaha. I had to use more than one bottle. I think it was a fuel gauge issue YES - I remember now!! thanks for reminding me.
In 1979 I had a '65 Corvair (winter beater car) fail state inspection due to a rusted fuel tank. I obtained a used one from a salvage yard & installed it. Back then the pump was external, so the tank just had a dip tube & sending unit. Pennsylvania used rock salt on the roads in winter, so most things rusted.
Thank you for using brass drifts. This is the only vid I have seen using them. Even professional mechanic vids I have seen they use steel screwdrivers which can create a spark. That means possible BOOM 💥
Actually I am more concerned about the shopvac sucking gasoline vapor through itself. [EDIT: I use a blow nozzle before removing the fuel pump module. I, too, am just a "guy in my garage" but I have a lift and use a transmission jack to deal with fuel tank. Reminder: gasoline weighs about 8lbs per gallon, definitely want the tank as empty as reasonable.]
Run a fuel pressure check before and after install of new pump. Low fuel pump pressure from a new pump will reduce idle RPMs but engine computer should detect that and compensate accordingly. I've ran my truck with a lousy new pump with 50% reduced/marginal pressures and can still do +60mph on highway. A good pump should show 40psi at idle, but this will vary based on engine and model of vehicle. China will occasionally have some quality control issues for your car parts.
My Rover 75 and many other decent cars have access panels under the rear seat so no need to remove the tank 👍 Plus on some vehicles with a saddle tank you'll discover there a 2 fuel senders one on each side. Measuring the terminals with a meter will determine which sender assembly you need to replace
I had the sme problem with my 02 firebird 🔥 So going through all that dropping the tank, I cut a long rectangular cut-out in my trunk exactly where the pump is ," directly in the middle of trunk, & pulled out the old fuel pump, & reverse installation. Without dropping the tank. Nuff-said 😊
Jimmy I think your better than just a guy in the garage l wish I lived closer to you as l would be there to help. I also am a self made Mac as l owned 18 wheeler , try putting a clutch in front of a 13 speed transmission in a dirt drive way my heart goes out to you , great video God bless you an have a blessed day
Good detailed video! My '12 lincoln navigator fuel guage was all over the place and would even read completely empty when i just fillled it. Before attempting this i put chevron fuel cleaner in for 3 tanks and now it functions good now. It may not work for everyone but its worth a try.
Five years ago I was in need of a vehicle even if temporary as mine was getting too expensive. I bought an 04 GMC Envoy XUV SLT V8 for scrap value that looked great in and out but "had a blown engine." Long story short the engine has been strong for five years as is the $29 fuel pump/sending unit that came in a box like you'd get at the auto parts store which was shocking in itself. $29 and I can't wrap my head around how any money was made as I was expecting it to last a month as I used it as a temp diagnosis part. Now I get compliments by the inspectors and the opening roof has been great for my hobbies of fixing other people's junk.
I would agree that replacing parts with quality parts is a good idea. However I question the belief that the factory parts are always the best available. If a sending unit is know to often fail at such low mileage, what makes that a good part? I think there are many aftermarket parts just as good or better than the original equipment for less money.. The problem comes when trying to determine if the particular aftermarket part is decent or not. The answer will be different for every part and every aftermarket manufacturer.
I bought a fuel pump with sending unit that came in a box with styrofoam clamshells for my 5.3 Envoy XUV for $29 five years ago. I expected a month out of it as I was told the engine was seized. Bad battery and fuel pump and most definitely a bad "mechanic" yet the lady I bought it from, the car not the pump, continues going to him.
A brass drift? Someone is stepping up their tool game. It's as if your gas tank has an mini-bar and home theater system in it with all the stuff connected to it. I did the one in my pick up about 4 years ago. Plastic tank makes it easier, but the factory puts all that stuff together from the top before the body goes on and everything seems like its just the worst position to get at. Good job Jimmy.
6:27 - for anyone that doesn't know , he has selected brass when working around fuel, as brass on steel wont cause a spark ....thus igniting the fuel. Never use anything that can spark around fuel like gasoline of natural gas like your furnace, even a drill can spark from vents of the drill causing igniting of fuel source.
True....But many people just use a screwdriver and no harm is done.I would not do that though.A non sparking screwdriver works....and even better...a lock ring tool you connect to a breaker bar..They are cheaper than those brass punches and work much better for rusty rings like most in the north.
2007 ford edge I replaced the pump after a second no start, replaced with a cheap ebay pump which had long starts then a no start so now that I've gotten better changing pumps I decided to go with a pull apart pump which ran great for two days then a no start, 15amp fuse had a burnt spot a short in the fuse, car started up and has been running better than ever.
Thanks for the video! So once you saw the contacts issue/dirt, why not only clean it with contacts cleaner? I guess it would solve the problem. Isn't it?
Only thing I could think to add to this is for those who first encounter such an issue would be to first check fuses and for bad wiring that is worn disconnected or bare first before going for a full fuel pump replacement. Nothing worse than buying an expensive part paying for labor or wasting your time just to find what you have done didn't fix your issue.
Had to replace the fuel sending unit in my wife’s 1999 Tahoe. Didn’t want to drop the tank so I took the rear seat out. Pulled the carpet back and cut an opening in the floor directly over the sending unit in the gas tank. Now I have a trap door so I can easily access the fuel sending unit. They should do this at the factory.
Great video. I have a 2004 ford f-150 and the fuel gauge doesn't move. When it first started it went all the way around and then stopped moving. Could this be the same problem. Thanks in advance.
You are definitely from the southern States, I haven't seen an '04 envoy this clean since 2005 around here.... I could only dream one would be that clean around here
My 2008 ford fusion has a pump-integrated fuel filter (strainer/pre filter), should I mess with this factory pump and change just this pre filter or wait for the pump to fail and change the whole assembly?
That's an awesome repair. Well done! BUT the jack stands you used on the front of the car, look like the very dangerous ones. Project Farm reviewed a number of different jack stands and you might want to review them in order to make sure you're safe. The Harbor Freight Daytona Jack Stands are very strong and well made and also quite affordable.
I put in a new fuel pump in my 02 firebird, but I didn't drop the gas tank, I cut a panel out from the back of the car where the pump sits which is on the middle of back panel. Rectangular U shape & pull the pump out. 😅
Just in case any of you are low on cash, you absolutely can replace the fuel pump or the sending unit sensor on the stock fuel assembly. That simple GM assembly is used in tons and tons of cars including a bunch of enthusiast vehicles. We don't keep the stock fuel pump in there. At a minimum we put in something like a walbro255, or bigger. What this means is after he pops out that fuel pump assembly, you push two little tangs in or undo two clips depending on the exact model you have, And then the inner assembly comes out. You can then remove the stock pump and hose and put on a new pump and hose.
Take it from a mechanic you should have plugged descending unit in and mechanically moved the leveler up and down to see if your needle moved on your dash before you ever put it all back in that way. If it didn’t, you could have checked your connections and all I’ve only had that happen one time, but it’s a whole lot easier to check all of that with your tank out of the vehicle.
Excellent video. You explain things well. But things rarely go back together as well as they come apart. I would have liked to see the tank going back in along with all connections. But thanks.
If the engineers at GM had half a brain, they would have made the fuel pump accessible through the back seat. I have a Chrysler 200 and all I have to do is pop out the back seat (takes 15 seconds) and, voila, there is the fuel pump. Also, they make fuel ring removal tools that are about the same price as the brass punch set and are a lot easier to use.
If you are concerned about gasoline vapors in the vacuum, an air hose would be safer. I don't know how much if any air from inside the vacuum cools the motor but they all have sparking brushes. If you don't have the air hose ready you can use the vacuum as a blower and it works just as good as a leaf blower. The only difference is you don't have to worry about a vacuum full of dangerous fuel vapors.
If I leaf blow on top of the fuel tank - to clean off the sending unit - can I spray Sta-Bil Rust Stopper also to prevent rust? Or will that short circuit the electrical connector? Says it's safe for electrical.
thanks for explaining I have a Suburban 2012 it shut down in the road when I made OBD test it gave multiple codes one of them U0073 data bus comunication , P069E fuel pump module control - Mil activation requested , P2635 fuel pump low performance , P0108B fuel pressure sensor B and of course the delay start engine my question where is the fuel valve regulator in Suburban 2012 shuold I replace it , is the fuel pump is broken and need to be replaced or updating online Or I have to fix the bus comunication Bus before to solve the problem thanks in advance .
Had same issues on a Peugeot 406 hdi, the car needed to be turned off and keys out for a few moments then fill the car, also the earthing cable was corroded and after a good clean it was 100% working fine.
So if it is a common problem, what is the cause? I see that one terminal that you show had burned and it didn't have the insulator crimp properly closed. Is that terminal in circuit with the level sensor? Looks like a high current circuit flaw to me and makes me wonder what led to that. If it's a design issue, did the manufacturer revise the product? If it's a quality control issue then where was the fault?
The little slip brushes wear out, or the trace on the non moving part of the gauge sender most of the time are a carbon composite and it just wears out, on his more than likely a defect with the sender, but of course you never know until |AFTER the warranty expires. Great Video
At least your fuel tank was almost empty. Years ago the fuel pump went out on my ‘93 Chevy Silverado with a full tank of gas. What caused the pump to go out was a shorted wire where the electric wire goes to the pump, the grommet failed, the wire’s insulation had a whole in it. I was told that wasn’t uncommon on the early nineties GM pickups. Our oldest son had the same problem with his GMC Envoy
I worked for a shop back in Wyoming, And I seen that same thing over and over again! Suburbans lined up in the parking lot with a bad fuel pump and everytime they had 42 gallons of gas in the tank! I guess the first thing people do after running the damn thing out of gas and ruining the fuel pump is fill it to the top!
I recently replaced the fuel pump in my 98 Taurus SHO project car. I was very concerned about the fumes, but it turned out fine and being quoted $900. from my mechanic was a great incentive. Fuel pump cost $47.00 on line. I'm getting request from neighbors now, to fix their cars.
This is why I love my little Ford Ranger and my old Volvo XC90. Fuel tank for the Rangers right under the bed. 6 bolts, remove the bed and never have to drop the tank. In fact I had a buddy cut a hole in my bed right above the fuel pump so I could easily access it whenever I need to test or replace the fuel pump. And on the XC90 its right under the back seat. Just remove the back seat which is fairly simple, then lift the cover and right there are the round covers for the fuel tank and saddle tank unit. Just unscrew 6 screws, lift off the cover and lift out your fuel pump. Same with the saddle tank unit. My Ranger might be 30 years old and my Volvo 20 years old but they sure are a lot easier to work on than the modern stuff.
I had the exact same problem,it would start fine but sometimes in the morning it would crank over and not start, I would wait a while then it would start, a mechanic I know said change the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator, the pumps probably ok
I just changed the one in my Frontier. It was working fine but I blew the fuel line where the steel line connects to the nylon line. I had to drop the tank and it has almost 300k so I figured while the tank was down I might as well change the pump. It would have been a couple hour job if I didn't snap 2 of the strap bolts but other than that it was pretty easy.
On my earlier model the delivery hose on the pump actually fell off or dissolved in the tank because the guys doing the job never found it in the tank! So therefore I can only assume that the fuel dissolved it! Another thing is the fuel gauge along with all the other gauges on the dash are all controlled by air coiled motors. Which are sort of expensive to purchase! Unless you buy off a wrecker & get them all for a fraction of the cost like I did!
Good job I worked on my car and started the car until runout of gas it was a bout 1 gallon was in the tank cleaned the tank before assembling the new pump also was using a tool to open the ring was my first time was easygoing tor me
The fuel gauge on my '99 Tahoe (361,350 miles) is still wrong only the needle stays toward the full line until I am down about a 1/2 tank where the needle will move around some and even set about where it should, at half full. I carefully cut a hole in the back seat floor, after extensive measuring to get the cutout to be above the fuel pump. I have reused the cutout piece, with tabs screwed to it with the other ends screwing back to the body. On the pump itself; the output and return tubes need the tool that you slip between the pump pipes and where it locks to the input/return lines. The return line (5/16ths) separates as it should, while even pressing hard, the input union (3/8ths) wont let go. The last pump replacement due to a failed pump was me on a trip. :-( . Stopped at a rest area in eastern S. Dakota for a late break and when I went to restart all I got was a gurgling sound from the pump. Spent the night, and next morning at 8, found a Chevy dealer not far from where I was at a nearby exit. The tow was $80 and the whole job was in the high 800s to low 900s. . I believe they chipped out the plastic pump pipe to get it all apart, which I will have to do per another guy's vid I saw a few years back. The gauge is wonky but the pump still runs strong. Have a new pump ready to go so someday...... Yeah, I have to be sure to reset the trip odometer when I gas up.
It helps to try and fill up when you hit half a tank. You never know when you have to make an emergency trip and if you don’t have gas money then you still have half a tank of gas to get you there. Plus it’s easier on your wallet to fill half a tank vs an empty one plus waiting til you’re empty all the time will cause the pump to wear out faster cause the fuel surrounding the pump helps keep it cool. And changing the fuel filter out when it’s due also helps keep the pump from over working itself
I learned that the hard way a few years back, the cheap chinese one I put in my '05 Mustang lasted 3 weeks.....and died pulling into a Walmart parking space...🤣🤣👍 Luckily it was an easy one to swap out again with OEM..
CONCUR.....had one slide off the stands many years ago. Best to only use those ratcheting stands too. hooked somewhere so it wont slide. When it is on 4 stands it is susceptible to falling down too at and angle like that is SUPER DANGEROUS. Best to put only 1 side in the air if you can and block the wheels on the other. (both sides of the tires)
@@Mikefngarage I was under the car 30 seconds prior to it falling off the good kind with cast extensions. which by the way only hold the car up with a 1/8 split pin.& I grew up with motor heads + 3 years auto mechanics in school so I knew what I was doing. Jackstands are unsafe people don't be fooled into a false sense of security. Put blocks under your vehicle
I've watched all your CB videos and realized that your wife is the orbit girl I can't believe it you're such a lucky man and I can't believe I remembered who she was from them commercials years ago God bless and thanks for sharing
Take it from a technician with more than 30 years experience. Never ever use a Shop-Vac to vacuum the dirt off of the sending unit or anything else on the fuel tank! Fuel Vapor gets sucked into the vacuum and the electric motor inside the vacuum can ignite the fuel vapor in the vacuum, then you have a problem. Use a plastic brush and scrub it if you have to and blow it off with compressed air. If you're working in a home garage and have a gas-fired water heater in the garage like some homes do shut the gas off to it make sure there's no pilot light, fuel Vapor will accumulate in an enclosed space soon as you open the tank.
I have a buddy that's missing half of his face by using a screwdriver and hammer to remove the retaining ring. You would never think it would happen, but the left side of his face is proof.
Totally agree from another 30 plus year mechanic..👍👍
Solid advice
SHOP AIR ONLY!!! and watch out static from that plastic. even from that. Touch the tank somewhere after not near the opening.
Time for Electric car. It's enough danger. I know, I know is expensive.
Good mention on NOT vacuuming gas fumes. I can only imagine the sparking of vac electric motor, fast moving air gas mix would GUARANTEE a firey situation.
thats all good however he should of checked the fuse box to see if the right fuse was in there and the wiring because what did course the fual pump to go bad in the first place
@@peterrenshaw9237 good point peter. Test before you replace. especially a factory original fuel pump $$$$$....I might have looked into some others because there are so many issues. Might be someone else who makes one better.
Why would you vacuum your gas fumes in the first place should ALWAYS work on anything flammable with plenty of ventilation.
Turbo charged vacum😮
One thing I've learned when it comes to getting fuel pumps nowadays is to never give them your old assembly as a core if they want it until your absolutely positive that you are happy with your new one. Also it's extremely hard to find quality parts nowadays, I always try to stick with oem parts especially with fuel pumps but it really depends on what I'm working on. A lot of times I'll get complaints with new fuel pumps that the gauge isn't working properly like theres still tons of fuel left when it reads empty is common or it's really noisy and doing weird things etc.. a lot of the time what I do if I have to get a new aftermarket pump I will try to reuse as many original parts as possible from the old one like the sending unit for the gauge if it was working. Also what I've done when the oem isn't available I'll take the old pump assembly apart and try to get a part number and information off the pump itself to get through the pump manufacturer like Bosch, walbro etc.. most everything you get at the normal parts stores is just junk, it either doesn't work right or fails quickly. It's gotten really bad.
DO NOT let your gas tank go Below 1/4. The pump uses gasoline as the coolant. Do NOT fill past 3/4 tank. That causes the evap canister to fail.
AS for the Envoy. It has GM dashboard illness. I call it, will fail engineering. It is designed to last long enough. Like 150,000 miles(she dails it up. you dail it down, maybe not) or a bit more.
By then your wifey (the dails it up person) will want a new, in style , cute car. Yes that is part of automotive design. GM don't care.
If that was 7 passenger. A lot of them got stolen. Worth big bucks in Pakistan and other countries in that area.
They have dual Front and Rear A/C with separate controls.
About 50% of the 7 passengers also V8 to make, the 6 cylinder Impala and Camaro, go fasters, go faster.
I still have a operating 5 passenger 2004 Envoy. One of the last no buffering, 460 A/C vehicles.(60 MPH 4 windows down). The 7 passenger got stolen. The I-6s wont fit in any thing else.
Really good engines, not anemic. Maybe a bit too good for a Silverado work truck? Really who would by a all the gadgets, I-6, not for work truck?
Yes 2 cylinders less wieght 295 HP and plenty of low end torque. Not enough? Turbo charge it. I guess 500 HP should be enough with small turbo?
But you gotta have a V-8. Because it is cheaper. I heard the Brooklin Bridge is for sale.
As for working on the Envoy gas tank or Filler neck on your back. It sucks. The filler neck even more. Especialy when the original spare tire is still in place 15 years later. As in frozen by rust in place. 4WD / AWS is great. Kill a tire with 40% of the tread left . Buy 4 knew tires.
So what is the full size spare for? Ballast. Maybe why you put the spare in Corvair in the front? Might also help with not getting the license plate pushed into the back seat into the back seat.
I am not a mechanic (drive train) any more or a engineer. I did do pre-production vehicle testing, when I got to old to wrench for a living.
Engineering: What do you mean it drives like there is a flat spot in the carburetor linkage?
FWD sucks money when you got to fix it. Cab forward also sucks money.
Most Japanese cars and some European cars have a removable cover that gets you access to the assembly. I don’t know why u.s. vehicles don’t do this. I suspect their throwing a bone to repair shops, as most people won’t do this job in their garages! It sucks dropping a full fuel tank! I ‘ve done many! On mY 98 k 1500. I cut a hole in the bed floor when I needed to replace the unit. Then I made a patch the covered the hole. It’s my truck, so when I’m done with it, it will be junkyard bound.
@@rack1850 they ask me for a core on certain ones very rarely and its always the assembly not the actual pump, you are correct it's not very often and I'm not sure what they do with them. Most of the time the core issue comes up is when I do a fuel pump that someone else just replaced and when I ask about the old one they say they gave it as a core. For example last week my friend did a fuel pump in his 1998 grand cherokee and it's giving him problems then when I asked him where the old one was he said he gave it for a core, that one really stumped me I even called them trying to get it back because I don't think anyone actually takes a core on those.
I only brought it up in my comment to warn people to just hang onto it for a little bit if they are asked for a core.
On my 06 rt I used oem top portion of electroc feul.pump cause it has 2 pump on left pump sensor on right. I have bough aftermarket parts mechanics have did reviews on them and they do work I do and will say do not plan to keep an aftermarket part use just because it was convenient financially but when you can get oem feul.pump.
Old is Gold
Jimmy you are the reason I keep my older vehicles on the road rather than trade them in at 200,000 miles like I used to. I own a 2003 and 2005. I was inspired when you said that you just keep driving that old suburban from the 1990's and keep on top of any issues at all times. Keep up the good work buddy!
It's always cheaper to fix them and maintain them then it is to buy a new one, not to mention how much better for the environment it is as well.
My wife and me were walking down a street when we saw 3 or 4 guys pulling out the gas tank from under a pickup truck. They said they were replacing the fuel pump again. He said that was the 3rd brand new fuel pump he has replaced in the past 2 months. I asked him if those new fuel pumps were aftermarket from the local parts store and he said yes. I told him that I've heard aftermarket fuel pump never work very long and it would be better to spent more to buy the OEM fuel pump. That way you will save a lot of time and effort replacing the fuel pump every month.
Hands down the most informative clearly explained video on how to change a fuel pump. Great job!
I've done this a few times since the 90s but it's great your doing this for others, way to go.
Also a tip, they make fuel pump retainer ring tools that have locking teeth that grab into those slots you used a punch on. Just put the tool on a long breaker bar or big 1/2" ratchet and giver a yank and it pops right off. Now I understand its not a necessity if you hardly ever need to take a pump out but I use it a lot at work for diesel def and fuel pumps.
Saturn SC2 fuel pumps are a pain in the ass to remove. They tend to pop back if you don't hold them while you are tapping it with a brass rod.
Worked for a government fleet and had to replace 18 in tank fuel pumps in 6 weeks.
A month earlier we had received our winter gas, no ethanol, 3 vehicles, all police units lost 2 pumps each. All were 2014 and newer, Dodge, and Fords.
Tanks were cleaned and inspected before installing the new pumps.
I noticed the gas was an odd color so I called our supplier, who called the refinery, nothing was ever admitted to be wrong but a few days later the supplier pumped out our 3 in ground tanks and dumped 2,800 gallons in, no charge. No more failures either.
Best rule of thumb 👍 once your at a quarter tank consider it on empty that's what causes the arching and over heating of the pump.
NEGATIVE....This is just not so.The pump is always filled with fuel right down to empty so it does not overheat..
@@djsi38t Agree, 30 y/o car, only on second pump, 280k miles, always run below 1/4.
I fixed a bad sending unit in my Chevy Equinox by filling the tank to 3/4 full, putting in a can of gas cleaner, then driving for an hour over a bumpy, unpaved road. The constant bumping jiggled the sending unit, and combined with the cleaner, this dislodged the crud that was messing up the sender. May not always work but worth a try.
Thing is the sending unit is not submerged in fuel
Clutching at straws, and hoping for a miracle??
I did the same with the plan to replace pump regardless due to mileage/ reliability.
If anyone Super doses with fuel treatment, do so Before changing Spark plugs. You don't want carbon chunks adhering to your new AC/Delco plugs.
Back in 2011 when I replaced the 2.2 L engine in my 2000 S10 I also replaced the fuel pump. Very similar procedure to your Envoy. I replaced it with a Carter fuel pump (Made in USA) only to have it leak in a few years. I then replaced it with a Spectra Premium fuel pump (imported, I forget where it was made) only to have the fuel gauge fail in a few years not to mention a persistent check engine light due to a less than perfect vapor seal. I finally “bit the bullet“ and purchased an “original equipment“ AC Delco fuel pump that believe it or not was made in Malaysia. No problems so far.
You're well beyond the stage of 'just a guy in his garage'. Even so, good for you to let people know, they should never trust one source, and never underestimate how difficult some tasks can be. The guys who make it sound too easy are those you can never trust.
Thanks dude. But, I really am just a guy in a garage… I do try my best though.
@@1RoadGarage ARE YOU STILL USING MOTORKOTE ,,, MY HUSBAND USES MOTORKOTE ON EVERYTHING WE OWN .... ( PROJECT FARM )
@Rigo Che He says it because he is both smart and humble. This is a dangerous job and people could be injured or killed. Someone following his advice could try to sue him claiming that he gave "expert" advices that harmed them... Etc. Also he is humble and recognizes his relative lack of experience.
Had a 2000 gmc Jimmy. Had to have the fuel pump replaced every 9 months.even with oe dealer parts and repair.2nd worst car i ever had.bearing hub assemble and both ball joints up and lower every 6 months.yes dealer installed supposed oe parts there too.and let's not forget the junk transmission where at 75 to 80 k miles it throws code that represents 40 something different problems with the same code.and 2/3s of them require the transmission to be removed and opened up.3500 bucks a pop.and yes dealer rebuilt transmission 3 days after I bought it under the 90 day waranty.
I see the scratches on your hands , I also always get wounded especially when it comes to hose connections and handling fuel tanks with gas or fuel still in the tank . Gas sloshing around sure makes removal very difficult . Great video .
Then there is the awkward placement of all fuel tanks on really any vehicle. Some are just are real pain to get to and are far worse than having to undo a strap. I can only imagine you would want it as empty as possible since a full tank would be considerably more challenging to move around.
And fuel pumps always die with a full tank
Just happened to me. Filled her up and two days later it was toast@@AmandaHugenkiss2915
Awesome video! I just did mine on my 2001 tahoe. Also drained tank and cleaned it with dish soap, lots of water, and dried it. Works awesome... it's a 6.0L tahoe I am building. Next thing is to upgrade to flex fuel injectors I have on my bench. Pretty cool project. Love your videos!
In case anyone is wondering, or needs to replace their fuel pump in the future on any GMT-360/370 models. If an AC Delco Fuel Pump is not available, use a BOSCH one. They essentially were the provider of the AC Delco branded ones, its been observed over the last few years on various forums that the AC Delco pumps will have a BOSCH part/serial/model number listed on the unit, and they're a fair bit cheaper as well.
bosch doesn't manufacture crap anything, they just have part numbers and suppliers. So the bosch pump is actually an AC Delco one
I planned on buying a Bosch from Rock Auto instead of the criminally overpriced 'precious' AC Delco. I know not to get a cheap brand, but didn't know AC Delco was essentially the same as Bosch. Thanks, confirmed!
Great video for someone not familiar with working on cars. I hope your channel is a great success, seeing your subs numbers I think you'll do amazing. Enjoyed the straight forward no bs approach. God bless
The thing that I like about, this guy is, that starts telling you don't do what he does, even though he makes a couple of mistakes that I can do another way, the video is very helpful
One *very* important thing you didn't address was the recommendation of replacing the fuel filter. Some suggest doing so every 5 years / 50,000 miles and others may say every 20,000 - 30,000 miles.
Clogged fuel filters can cause:
• Poor Engine Performance
(Under heavy or high-speed acceleration, a clogged fuel filter may cause the engine to randomly hesitate, surge or sputter)
• Hard Starting
• Stalling
• Random Misfire or Rough Idle
I recently changed the fuel filter on my '93 Grand Cherokee and as I poured the residual fuel out of the filter itself - a *lot* of what looked like black 'silt' came out with it. Definitely was WAY overdue and am now worried there's plenty more where that came from, left in the tank itself.
A huge amount of respect to you for tackling this large gas tank... on your back! They're difficult at times, even in a fully-equipped shop with a lift AND a tall transmission jack!
In about 2001, most manufacturers abandoned in-line fuel filters, instead putting the filter inside the fuel pump assembly inside the tank. Their reasoning was that the filter is better placed in the low pressure side, at the intake for the pump, so that higher pressure line is not obstructed by a filter further downstream. They considered it a safety feature. Check your owners manual for advice regarding how often to change the filter, but many manufacturers abandoned routine filter replacement.
just buy a 12 pack of fuel filters at megalo mart
We've never touched the fuel pump on our 2008 Toyota sienna van= it's a taxi! Has 886.000!! Miles. It runs perfect! 🚕🚖
@@captainamericaamerica8090 886 miles? Wow
The black "silt" that came out of your old fuel filter was likely the remains of the carbon brushes in your fuel pump. That's normal.
I did thousands of those at the dealer sulfated fuels eat the wiper
I gotta say, I share the same enthusiasm when I work on my own car. The hardest thing I've done, was putting a new turbo in a 2008 VW GTI. And anyone with a Volkswagen knows how difficult it actually is to remove and install. They recommended pulling over sliding the motor forward. But I did it without moving it. Pretty time consuming, but rewarding.
My buddy actually rebuilt his turbo in his 2000 F-250 Powerstroke diesel. It turned out good.
On some vehicles you'll be lucky and the manufacturer has chosen to put an access panel to the gas pump, usually under the back seat or inside the trunk. Turns a pump replacement job from several hours to about 1/2 hour at the most as you don't need to remove the tank.
Absolutely! When I did my minivan it was my brother that suggested cutting a hole in the floor to do the job. Couple hours later I was done, including the ‘fancy’ removable cover for the access hole!
@@joeyoungs8426 Couple months after my post, my 2012 Cadillac SRX needed a fuel pump. Would have been a nightmare taking off the entire exhaust system just to get started taking the tank off. I went ahead and took the back seat out and cut the floorboard. In the case of my car I had to cut two openings. I figured out where to cut by watching a tank removal video and seeing where the openings on the tank are. I don't think I'll still have this car by the time the pump needs to be replaced again, but at least I know if it does then it'll be an easy job.
@@verohandymikeDefinitely the way to go for us back yard mechanics.
I have an 04 Yukon XL 2 wheel 2500 and my gauge quit suddenly. Pump was still working so I decided to do the job but waited 2 weeks to do this. I had no clue what was in the tank so everytime I went out I put $10 in it. When the time came I decided to go in from the top. I measured, remeasured and had my roommate measure where the pump was and decided it was under the L rear seat
Soooo, I bought a "low sparking" cutting wheel, took the seat out, cut the carpet and with a sprinkler running under the truck ( go ahead laugh it worked) and my roommate with a fire extinguisher watching under the truck and another friend watching from above I cut a access hole. It took all of 5 min being very careful to just barley cut through the floor. And done. I was right on with my measurements and the pump was right where I cut. Rest of the job took less than 30 minutes. The scary part was I am glad I did not remove the tank. Those $10 stops for gas, the tank was completely full. It actually pushed the ring up and splashed when it broke loose I can't imagine what would have happened if 32 gallons dropped with the tank. Anyway replaced the pump, caulked a huge bead of auto body caulk and put a piece of sheet metal coated both sides with plastic dip on top of that and screwed it in and put the carpet back. Never know I was there. If I had to do again I would cut the floor out again in a heartbeat.
@@robertt8273 I did the same with my 2012 Cadillac SRX. That would have been a nightmare to remove also since you have to remove the entire exhaust system just to begin the job of removing the tank. Well worth the effort.
Good stuff Jimmy! Unfortunately I've done that job on both my Suburbans... That looked easy compared to getting those 42 gallon steel tanks out from under a Suburban. Thanks for sharing.
I removed the seat behind the driver ..exposed the floorboard..and cut an access hole on three sides ..then was able to remove the pump without dropping the tank ..pretty easy actually ..reinstalled ..and bent the floorboard back in place and silicone sealed ..
@@freedomtrucker2332 that that's what my grandpa did. we have fuel pump hatches on all four of the suburbans we inherited.
@@benhamster ..right ..for home garage mechanics like us ..not having vehicle lifts and other professional type heavy tools at our disposal..this makes a difficult time consuming repair quite easy ..
A lot of people have said to not use a vacuum cleaner. I agree. Even though you held the old unit in place, there was still fumes escaping. I would have used degreaser on it, & not taken it apart until it was clean & dry. I would not have worked in a garage either. Too dangerous. Petrol fumes are heavier than air. Simply plugging the pipe fittings, degreasing, rinsing with water, then let it dry would have been best, THEN remove the connected hoses on the pump, & remove the pump assembly. As for the fan idea, modern electric fans have an induction motor in them, thus lowering spark risk
static electricity makes sparks😢
@@haroldhorton2603 you don’t get static electricity from induction motors
how is that even possible to have electric wires inside the fuel tank ? i mean even if it's just 12v or less, isn't there a risk of small sparks that can light up the fuel ?
So glad I returned my AZ part. I trust the parts that are easy to replace from the brick stores. But when. It comes to hard to get to and hard to replace parts stick with OEM.
I agree if you know the replacement is superior to the original, but without evidence that it is, I would assume the second oem part is going to fail prematurely like the original.
I'd only use the parts store for things like brake parts and hoses, belts, that are hard to screw up. Anything critical, I either go to Napa, the junkyard, or the dealer.
I had to do the same thing with a 1997 GMC 2500 Extended Cab Long Bed and I must say, it is NOT a fun endeavour. Those sending units always go out. Awesome video and demonstration in this step by step "how to".
🖤
My dad drove an ‘87 Monte Carlo. The fuel pump always went out on those.
Awesome video. Working around gas is always dangerous, so great job.
Thanks!!
Great job well done..that's a fine vehicle you've got there a much better one than you could purchase now .very reliable and not too complicated to repair . definitely a keeper
I appreciate your honesty that you are not a pro and here I am watching your video even though I’m a pro and actually own a shop. Even a pro can learn from a DIY
I was about 3 when I decided to save Dad money on gas, so I filled the gas tank with a very similar looking liquid called water. I think now I'm lucky to be alive.
LMAO
Well technically there's hydrogen in water so you were ahead of the curve.
Probably cycling the key On/Off after disconnecting batt and turn an accessory ON to discharge capacitors that may store energy would be a good idea also .
Great job and explanation btw , i sub'd 👍
Great video , That's a great replacement fuel pump worth the cost , just asking did you check the ohms on old fuel pump sending unit with the new one because the dash fuel gauge only works correctly with certain ohms. Thanks
I had a Pontiac Montana (3.7 V6) which had a similar fuel gauge issue. GM were adamant that the problem lay with the sulphur levels in the fuel and that if not attended to, permanent damage would be done to the pump which will not be covered by warranty. Went to the dealership and they gave me a bottle of conditioner which, had to be used ASP. It worked, it actually worked ! I tend to be skeptical of Main Dealers, but they nailed it this time. The secret was to correct the problem quickly otherwise the potentiometer would gum up.
Techron
yeah I used Techron also - can't remember what problem it fixed though. hahahaha. I had to use more than one bottle. I think it was a fuel gauge issue YES - I remember now!! thanks for reminding me.
In 1979 I had a '65 Corvair (winter beater car) fail state inspection due to a rusted fuel tank. I obtained a used one from a salvage yard & installed it. Back then the pump was external, so the tank just had a dip tube & sending unit. Pennsylvania used rock salt on the roads in winter, so most things rusted.
Thank you for using brass drifts. This is the only vid I have seen using them. Even professional mechanic vids I have seen they use steel screwdrivers which can create a spark. That means possible BOOM 💥
Actually I am more concerned about the shopvac sucking gasoline vapor through itself.
[EDIT: I use a blow nozzle before removing the fuel pump module. I, too, am just a "guy in my garage" but I have a lift and use a transmission jack to deal with fuel tank. Reminder: gasoline weighs about 8lbs per gallon, definitely want the tank as empty as reasonable.]
heavy job .. awesome ⚡️
video ..
You can replace just the fuel level sensor separately.
Nice Job, everything went back together as planned with no extra parts on the side!
Run a fuel pressure check before and after install of new pump. Low fuel pump pressure from a new pump will reduce idle RPMs but engine computer should detect that and compensate accordingly. I've ran my truck with a lousy new pump with 50% reduced/marginal pressures and can still do +60mph on highway. A good pump should show 40psi at idle, but this will vary based on engine and model of vehicle. China will occasionally have some quality control issues for your car parts.
interesting - I didn't realize that would change the idle RPM based on how much fuel is in the tank.
My Rover 75 and many other decent cars have access panels under the rear seat so no need to remove the tank 👍
Plus on some vehicles with a saddle tank you'll discover there a 2 fuel senders one on each side.
Measuring the terminals with a meter will determine which sender assembly you need to replace
I still don’t get why every video has “WHY I NEVER MESS WITH THE FACTORY -“ but then no explanation.
He titles a lot of videos that way to improve viewership I believe.
Everything is about why you should.. so he says why you shouldn’t and he gets more clicks. He’s smart
Click baitie....
And oneroad doesnt reply. You wonder if these people are real
@@Arizona_rider lying is a great way to lose viewers
I had the sme problem with my 02 firebird 🔥 So going through all that dropping the tank, I cut a long rectangular cut-out in my trunk exactly where the pump is ," directly in the middle of trunk, & pulled out the old fuel pump, & reverse installation. Without dropping the tank. Nuff-said 😊
Plz replace your fuel filter too. I replaced my pump once and the filter killed my new pump.
Jimmy I think your better than just a guy in the garage l wish I lived closer to you as l would be there to help. I also am a self made Mac as l owned 18 wheeler , try putting a clutch in front of a 13 speed transmission in a dirt drive way my heart goes out to you , great video God bless you an have a blessed day
Good detailed video!
My '12 lincoln navigator fuel guage was all over the place and would even read completely empty when i just fillled it. Before attempting this i put chevron fuel cleaner in for 3 tanks and now it functions good now. It may not work for everyone but its worth a try.
Five years ago I was in need of a vehicle even if temporary as mine was getting too expensive. I bought an 04 GMC Envoy XUV SLT V8 for scrap value that looked great in and out but "had a blown engine." Long story short the engine has been strong for five years as is the $29 fuel pump/sending unit that came in a box like you'd get at the auto parts store which was shocking in itself. $29 and I can't wrap my head around how any money was made as I was expecting it to last a month as I used it as a temp diagnosis part. Now I get compliments by the inspectors and the opening roof has been great for my hobbies of fixing other people's junk.
How is your XUV?
It’s a curious car, I like it. It’s like a Swiss Army knife.
I would agree that replacing parts with quality parts is a good idea. However I question the belief that the factory parts are always the best available. If a sending unit is know to often fail at such low mileage, what makes that a good part? I think there are many aftermarket parts just as good or better than the original equipment for less money.. The problem comes when trying to determine if the particular aftermarket part is decent or not.
The answer will be different for every part and every aftermarket manufacturer.
I bought a fuel pump with sending unit that came in a box with styrofoam clamshells for my 5.3 Envoy XUV for $29 five years ago. I expected a month out of it as I was told the engine was seized. Bad battery and fuel pump and most definitely a bad "mechanic" yet the lady I bought it from, the car not the pump, continues going to him.
A brass drift? Someone is stepping up their tool game. It's as if your gas tank has an mini-bar and home theater system in it with all the stuff connected to it. I did the one in my pick up about 4 years ago. Plastic tank makes it easier, but the factory puts all that stuff together from the top before the body goes on and everything seems like its just the worst position to get at. Good job Jimmy.
Glad you put fuel in it before testing. Running the fuel pump dry is the best way to burn it out.
Great video.
Couple questions.
#1 how did you get your vehicle on those jacks?
#2 Did you check the wiring to the pump first?
I bought a cheap one from eBay the sending unit failed one month later problem the cheap float fell off.
Me too
Should also replace the fuel filter. Great job.
Yes replace the fuel filter and dump some fuel injector cleaner in the gas tank while you are at it.
I replaced the fuel filter at the recommended 30K and the fuel filter was perfectly clean. Big waste of labor.
'06 & later TB/Envoy only used a "sock" which is part of new pump unit.
6:27 - for anyone that doesn't know , he has selected brass when working around fuel, as brass on steel wont cause a spark ....thus igniting the fuel. Never use anything that can spark around fuel like gasoline of natural gas like your furnace, even a drill can spark from vents of the drill causing igniting of fuel source.
True....But many people just use a screwdriver and no harm is done.I would not do that though.A non sparking screwdriver works....and even better...a lock ring tool you connect to a breaker bar..They are cheaper than those brass punches and work much better for rusty rings like most in the north.
2007 ford edge I replaced the pump after a second no start, replaced with a cheap ebay pump which had long starts then a no start so now that I've gotten better changing pumps I decided to go with a pull apart pump which ran great for two days then a no start, 15amp fuse had a burnt spot a short in the fuse, car started up and has been running better than ever.
Thanks for the video!
So once you saw the contacts issue/dirt, why not only clean it with contacts cleaner?
I guess it would solve the problem.
Isn't it?
Only thing I could think to add to this is for those who first encounter such an issue would be to first check fuses and for bad wiring that is worn disconnected or bare first before going for a full fuel pump replacement. Nothing worse than buying an expensive part paying for labor or wasting your time just to find what you have done didn't fix your issue.
اعجبني مقطع الفيديو بسبب وضوح الشرح و بدون كلام زايد و لا موسيقى , فعلا جعلته ممتعا لي , اشكرك
Had to replace the fuel sending unit in my wife’s 1999 Tahoe. Didn’t want to drop the tank so I took the rear seat out. Pulled the carpet back and cut an opening in the floor directly over the sending unit in the gas tank. Now I have a trap door so I can easily access the fuel sending unit. They should do this at the factory.
Great video! Also, glad to have it fixed by a handsome mechanic. ♥️
Damn look how Clean and rust free that thing is. He's got it lucky. Here in wisconsin half that crap would be rotten out.
can we spray Sta-bil Rust Stopper up above the fuel tank - on top of the sending unit? Says it's safe for electrical components. ...
Great video. I have a 2004 ford f-150 and the fuel gauge doesn't move. When it first started it went all the way around and then stopped moving. Could this be the same problem. Thanks in advance.
What did the fingers on the new level sender look like? I would have said that the left set was the bad set with the ends worn off.
Go to 1:23 for the new set. Designed totally different.
You are definitely from the southern States, I haven't seen an '04 envoy this clean since 2005 around here.... I could only dream one would be that clean around here
I cut an access plate in the bed . I can change the pump anywhere.
Lol I know, its like who drops the tank these days anymore? Everyone just cuts an access hole
good job, nice to see the gauge working.
Dude. So right.
My 2008 ford fusion has a pump-integrated fuel filter (strainer/pre filter), should I mess with this factory pump and change just this pre filter or wait for the pump to fail and change the whole assembly?
That's an awesome repair. Well done! BUT the jack stands you used on the front of the car, look like the very dangerous ones. Project Farm reviewed a number of different jack stands and you might want to review them in order to make sure you're safe. The Harbor Freight Daytona Jack Stands are very strong and well made and also quite affordable.
I put in a new fuel pump in my 02 firebird, but I didn't drop the gas tank, I cut a panel out from the back of the car where the pump sits which is on the middle of back panel. Rectangular U shape & pull the pump out. 😅
Just in case any of you are low on cash, you absolutely can replace the fuel pump or the sending unit sensor on the stock fuel assembly.
That simple GM assembly is used in tons and tons of cars including a bunch of enthusiast vehicles.
We don't keep the stock fuel pump in there. At a minimum we put in something like a walbro255, or bigger.
What this means is after he pops out that fuel pump assembly, you push two little tangs in or undo two clips depending on the exact model you have, And then the inner assembly comes out. You can then remove the stock pump and hose and put on a new pump and hose.
Take it from a mechanic you should have plugged descending unit in and mechanically moved the leveler up and down to see if your needle moved on your dash before you ever put it all back in that way. If it didn’t, you could have checked your connections and all I’ve only had that happen one time, but it’s a whole lot easier to check all of that with your tank out of the vehicle.
That was a great vid. Why did you say not to mess with factory fuel pump ? Makes no sense
Excellent video. You explain things well. But things rarely go back together as well as they come apart. I would have liked to see the tank going back in along with all connections. But thanks.
I miss the good old days when the fuel pump was mounted on the engine block vs inside the fuel tank.
Problem is....If you want fuel injection...pump has to be in the tank.I do not miss carbeurators..
@djsi38t what was so bad about carburetors?
@@djsi38twhy?
If the engineers at GM had half a brain, they would have made the fuel pump accessible through the back seat. I have a Chrysler 200 and all I have to do is pop out the back seat (takes 15 seconds) and, voila, there is the fuel pump. Also, they make fuel ring removal tools that are about the same price as the brass punch set and are a lot easier to use.
If you are concerned about gasoline vapors in the vacuum, an air hose would be safer. I don't know how much if any air from inside the vacuum cools the motor but they all have sparking brushes. If you don't have the air hose ready you can use the vacuum as a blower and it works just as good as a leaf blower. The only difference is you don't have to worry about a vacuum full of dangerous fuel vapors.
If I leaf blow on top of the fuel tank - to clean off the sending unit - can I spray Sta-Bil Rust Stopper also to prevent rust? Or will that short circuit the electrical connector? Says it's safe for electrical.
thanks for explaining I have a Suburban 2012 it shut down in the road when I made OBD test it gave multiple codes one of them U0073 data bus comunication , P069E fuel pump module control - Mil activation requested , P2635 fuel pump low performance , P0108B fuel pressure sensor B and of course the delay start engine my question where is the fuel valve regulator in Suburban 2012 shuold I replace it , is the fuel pump is broken and need to be replaced or updating online Or I have to fix the bus comunication Bus before to solve the problem thanks in advance .
I was wondering if you could access the fuel pump from the top by removing the rear seat. Most vehicles are designed that way now a days.
You're right. But it depends on the car's design. I am sure my Daihatsu Sirion has access from the rear seat:)
Had same issues on a Peugeot 406 hdi, the car needed to be turned off and keys out for a few moments then fill the car, also the earthing cable was corroded and after a good clean it was 100% working fine.
So if it is a common problem, what is the cause? I see that one terminal that you show had burned and it didn't have the insulator crimp properly closed. Is that terminal in circuit with the level sensor? Looks like a high current circuit flaw to me and makes me wonder what led to that. If it's a design issue, did the manufacturer revise the product? If it's a quality control issue then where was the fault?
The little slip brushes wear out, or the trace on the non moving part of the gauge sender most of the time are a carbon composite and it just wears out, on his more than likely a defect with the sender, but of course you never know until |AFTER the warranty expires. Great Video
At least your fuel tank was almost empty. Years ago the fuel pump went out on my ‘93 Chevy Silverado with a full tank of gas. What caused the pump to go out was a shorted wire where the electric wire goes to the pump, the grommet failed, the wire’s insulation had a whole in it. I was told that wasn’t uncommon on the early nineties GM pickups. Our oldest son had the same problem with his GMC Envoy
I worked for a shop back in Wyoming, And I seen that same thing over and over again! Suburbans lined up in the parking lot with a bad fuel pump and everytime they had 42 gallons of gas in the tank! I guess the first thing people do after running the damn thing out of gas and ruining the fuel pump is fill it to the top!
@@tonymayhew191 fascinating.
I recently replaced the fuel pump in my 98 Taurus SHO project car. I was very concerned about the fumes, but it turned out fine and being quoted $900. from my mechanic was a great incentive. Fuel pump cost $47.00 on line. I'm getting request from neighbors now, to fix their cars.
This is why I love my little Ford Ranger and my old Volvo XC90.
Fuel tank for the Rangers right under the bed. 6 bolts, remove the bed and never have to drop the tank. In fact I had a buddy cut a hole in my bed right above the fuel pump so I could easily access it whenever I need to test or replace the fuel pump.
And on the XC90 its right under the back seat. Just remove the back seat which is fairly simple, then lift the cover and right there are the round covers for the fuel tank and saddle tank unit. Just unscrew 6 screws, lift off the cover and lift out your fuel pump. Same with the saddle tank unit.
My Ranger might be 30 years old and my Volvo 20 years old but they sure are a lot easier to work on than the modern stuff.
I had the exact same problem,it would start fine but sometimes in the morning it would crank over and not start, I would wait a while then it would start, a mechanic I know said change the fuel filter and the fuel pressure regulator, the pumps probably ok
I just changed the one in my Frontier. It was working fine but I blew the fuel line where the steel line connects to the nylon line. I had to drop the tank and it has almost 300k so I figured while the tank was down I might as well change the pump. It would have been a couple hour job if I didn't snap 2 of the strap bolts but other than that it was pretty easy.
On my earlier model the delivery hose on the pump actually fell off or dissolved in the tank because the guys doing the job never found it in the tank! So therefore I can only assume that the fuel dissolved it! Another thing is the fuel gauge along with all the other gauges on the dash are all controlled by air coiled motors. Which are sort of expensive to purchase! Unless you buy off a wrecker & get them all for a fraction of the cost like I did!
Nice job , I just did a new pump on my 04 Tahoe . Agreed always use genuine parts , don’t want to have to do the job again.
I have a 2006 Chrysler 300c with the 5.7. It has 170,000 miles. Taking a long road trip soon. Should I change the fuel pump? It’s original.
Good job I worked on my car and started the car until runout of gas it was a bout 1 gallon was in the tank cleaned the tank before assembling the new pump also was using a tool to open the ring was my first time was easygoing tor me
The fuel gauge on my '99 Tahoe (361,350 miles) is still wrong only the needle stays toward the full line until I am down about a 1/2 tank where the needle will move around some and even set about where it should, at half full. I carefully cut a hole in the back seat floor, after extensive measuring to get the cutout to be above the fuel pump. I have reused the cutout piece, with tabs screwed to it with the other ends screwing back to the body. On the pump itself; the output and return tubes need the tool that you slip between the pump pipes and where it locks to the input/return lines. The return line (5/16ths) separates as it should, while even pressing hard, the input union (3/8ths) wont let go. The last pump replacement due to a failed pump was me on a trip. :-(
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Stopped at a rest area in eastern S. Dakota for a late break and when I went to restart all I got was a gurgling sound from the pump. Spent the night, and next morning at 8, found a Chevy dealer not far from where I was at a nearby exit. The tow was $80 and the whole job was in the high 800s to low 900s.
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I believe they chipped out the plastic pump pipe to get it all apart, which I will have to do per another guy's vid I saw a few years back. The gauge is wonky but the pump still runs strong. Have a new pump ready to go so someday...... Yeah, I have to be sure to reset the trip odometer when I gas up.
It helps to try and fill up when you hit half a tank. You never know when you have to make an emergency trip and if you don’t have gas money then you still have half a tank of gas to get you there. Plus it’s easier on your wallet to fill half a tank vs an empty one plus waiting til you’re empty all the time will cause the pump to wear out faster cause the fuel surrounding the pump helps keep it cool.
And changing the fuel filter out when it’s due also helps keep the pump from over working itself
Thanks. Well made and well filmed.
I learned that the hard way a few years back, the cheap chinese one I put in my '05 Mustang lasted 3 weeks.....and died pulling into a Walmart parking space...🤣🤣👍 Luckily it was an easy one to swap out again with OEM..
Another perfect video. I wasn't aware vehicles came with so few miles, I mean that's brand new!
Many...many people...just go to the store and back with their car doing maybe 1500 miles a year..
Thank you for a great video. Don't use the vacuum use air. Be safe. 😎
The gauge works for a little while but the three that I have put in my truck always stop working and now I'm putting my fourth in
Dont ever put your vehicle at an angle on jack stands like he has and get under it, ALWAYS keep it level!
Absolutely not even a slight angle, I don't use them at all after a near miss, I use blocks only
CONCUR.....had one slide off the stands many years ago. Best to only use those ratcheting stands too. hooked somewhere so it wont slide. When it is on 4 stands it is susceptible to falling down too at and angle like that is SUPER DANGEROUS. Best to put only 1 side in the air if you can and block the wheels on the other. (both sides of the tires)
@@Mikefngarage I was under the car 30 seconds prior to it falling off the good kind with cast extensions. which by the way only hold the car up with a 1/8 split pin.& I grew up with motor heads + 3 years auto mechanics in school so I knew what I was doing. Jackstands are unsafe people don't be fooled into a false sense of security. Put blocks under your vehicle
Why not it can't fall on you the tires are still on it
@@peytonmaturin4448 if any part traps you it can stop you from breathing
I've watched all your CB videos and realized that your wife is the orbit girl I can't believe it you're such a lucky man and I can't believe I remembered who she was from them commercials years ago God bless and thanks for sharing