Fought for hours even took it to a shop, finally came across your video. cant believe the gear was out 180 degrees but once i turned it around everything lines up. Thanks ...back on the road
Just wanna say I am absolutely glad I found your video! I was having the exact same problem tried so many times could not hit the mark. Did what you did and bam first try!! Thanks again
Had same issue this week, luckily I found your video. Brand new AC Delco distributor and it wouldn't line up, it was either ahead or behind. I flipped the gear and now its tight on the 6. Thanks for the info.
You really saved me here!!! Was at a loss, but I reversed that gear on my new distributor and now code has not come back. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!
You are friggin genius. I had replaced the factory cam with a comp cam & after dozens & dozens of times installing that Dist. I got frustrated. Found ur vid & tried it. Friggin amazing. Today is sunday so tomorrow I will be on the phone with Holley/Comp Cams. Thanks dude.
I bought an aftermarket distributor 4 my 96 c1500 and my brother in law and his buddy and me spent all Saturday trying to allign and couldn’t. Next day i took your advice and “BLAM”, went in on first try! Thank You for this hack!👍🏻
SON.... You single-handedly saved my day and my sanity! For 9 DAYS, I did and tried every remedy and solution imaginable to put that number 6 in its place and failed.... Til YOUR video and genius.... THANK YOU SO MUCH
I’m so glad to hear it helped you out!! I know how frustrating that is cause I’ve been there. It took me a few hours to figure it out and I knew someone else had to have had that same problem. This video started my UA-cam channel. Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and share it around maybe it will help others keep their sanity lol. Thanks again and welcome to my channel!!
Great work. I found the same thing on mine for a 5.7 vortec. The cheap replacements get it wrongs, maybe it's 50:50. I've mentioned it in comments to other videos but you're the first to mention it in a video I've seen. Another nice trick is to shim the gear for .010 end play and also it's not a bad idea to add a vent to the cap.
Daaaaanm. I thought I was losing my mind it was just poor quality and assembled parts from Amazon It worked out great hopefully this part will hold me down for a little while👍
3:08 Looking at the hole on dot side of gear vs non dot side of gear you can see the difference, being non dot side aligns on a tooth, dot side aligns between the teeth. So basically they put that indicator dot on the wrong side.. Good catch.
I will add this. I’m not sure if I had mentioned in other comments but I did eventually fix all my issues with mine. I had to rework the heads. My valve seats were bad and it got so bad if would hardly run. After the head job my truck runs like new. It cost me about $450 but it was worth every penny! No more issues with missing and check engine lights!
@@op3crimsin yes the first time I took a compression test it was normal after things really got bad and was missing under normal conditions I retested the compression and two cylinders had zero psi the valves had seized in the open position.
WOW, about a year ago my 99 suburban 5.7 had me going nuts having spent hours apon hours/ day after day trying to find top dead-center and drop the distributor in perfectly because you can't just turn the distributor on this year burb. Well after weeks of trying I finally sent it to a shop, well they were pissed too after spending all day on it. Then they took the distributor out of another truck and put it in mine and it started. They were pissed because everyone one in the shop had a go at it only to discover a faulty distributor from the parts store.
It’s definitely hard when the parts you buy don’t come put together properly. And paying attention to the smallest detail sometimes is still not enough! I’ve had cheap parts made overseas come in completely different than the original with no way they would fit the bolt holes were 1/4 off. And getting oem parts are still only as good as the person or machine that put them together!
Mine wasn’t ac delco but I have seen enough to know that it doesn’t matter what brand it is, it depends on the person who put it together and if that person was paying attention to detail that day lol.
Gonna have to try this, but what's weird is that when I couldn't get the new distributor to line up right, I tried reinstalling the old one again, and THAT one wouldn't line up either. Wondering if all these people that have the same problem just had a timing chain that jumped like one tooth or something.
Mine definitely had not jumped timing. I’d say you had movement somewhere after pulling your old distributor. Possibly while trying to install one of the distributors you’ve turned the oil pump just a little and the shaft from the distributor won’t engage it. That’s actually how I found out why mine would not line up I pulled the distributor apart to try and line up the oil pump and after looking at the gear and shaft alignment is when I found the solution. Your old distributor should have fallen back into place when trying to reinstall it. Just a thought
I have a astro van that I have pulled replaced the distribute many time, no problem . Now I have a new van and am try to replace the distribute an it went line up with the 6 an its a new distribute .I can't believe it would b assembled wrong
I'm having the same problem with my 4.3. Bought It with the code and It runs perfectly. I've taken the distributor out twice and It come very close to the 6, but It's not dead on the 6 no matter how many times I do It. Crank pulley Is perfectly lined up with the timing marks. Thinking maybe this Is my problem.
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
It is a possibility. Mine was caused by bad exhaust valve guides. Had the heads reworked and it solved my issue. However a severely worn cam and or timing gears could cause this to but it would have to be severe I would think. Most common problem I found was the distributor gear worn almost half of the tooth off which is how I found this issue. I would say I’d be skeptical of this diagnosis but without seeing it I’d be guessing to. Unless he’s turning the crank and seeing lack of movement in the valves I’d say it’s a guess on his part. Just my opinion. Tread carefully my friend
@@alexis_1503 yeah that’s never good. Large pieces? Super fine stuff is normal but anything larger is really bad sign. How many miles on the engine? It may be time to look at a replacement. If you weigh out the cost of the repairs at a shop you are probably half way to a rebuilt engine.
It should not create a no start at a half tooth out. That sounds like you have another problem. Did you have a no start problem prior to messing with the distributor? Or did you try to set the distributor and get the timing off?
@@ancellsadventures I used to have to take off the cap and rotor every month or so to scrub off the carbon build up and corrosion or to just install a new cap and rotor. But the screw hole in the distributor became corroded and spit out the screw holding the rotor. So now I'm trying to swap out the distributor. It seems like I'm experiencing the same thing u were having with the rotor not lining up perfectly. When I get it installed and lined up as good as I can (looks to be off a little in either direction) and it's laying flat. I get a crank no start.
@@BPakesi and you started at top dead center on number one? Sounds like you need to knock the pin out as I’ve shown and spin the gear 180 degrees but I can’t see it one tooth off either way causing a no start. Is the electrical connection the same?
@@ancellsadventures I've followed what I saw on line by lining up the notches on the harmonic balancer with the required spots to the best that I could. The connector on the new distributor looked the same as the old one and felt like it seated properly when it was installed. I'll try again and flip the gear 180. But I'm worried something else is wrong if I'm already getting a crank no start. Thanks for the advice.
@@BPakesi here’s my advice of where to go from here. Start fresh. Realign your timing marks. Top dead center on the compression stroke. You can check by removing the spark plug and placing your finger over the plug hole while someone turns the engine over with a ratchet or breaker bar. If your on the exhaust stroke when you start you will already be 180 out on the crank. Since it ran prior to the new distributor install I’d say you have the timing way off. There should be a good video of how to time an engine from start to finish on UA-cam. I’ve never seen a tooth or even two create a no start before it may run like shit but generally it would pop and run rough as hell and possibly cut off but it would at least start. If you are way out on the timing say 180 on the crank you would be firing number one cylinder on the top end of the exhaust stroke which will result in a no start every cylinder would be firing on the exhaust stroke for that matter. I’m not sure if this is your problem but that’s where I’d start. Go back to the beginning and start fresh. I hope this helps you out!!
I purchased a 97 c 1500 4.3 vortec and the truck was miss firing random. Took the distributor cap off and the metal prong was 180 off the #6 mark. Made sure truck was TDC and so took it out put it at 6 mark with switching the gear around. And it’s on 6 but now the truck won’t even start now. ? I’m lost.
I’m not sure you had it on top dead center on the compression stroke. It was probably on the exhaust stroke. You need to get it back to number one on top dead center on the compression stroke and check to see where the rotor is pointing and go from there. If you have some help pull the number one spark plug carefully have someone bump it over until you feel it blow air out the plug hole and that will tell you if it’s the compression stroke
Yeah but like I was saying you have to make sure it’s the compression stroke the piston comes up on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. If you time it on the exhaust stroke it will be off to far to run. You could also pull the valve cover off and rotate the motor until it’s on top dead center and both rocker arms are up that would tell you it’s the compression stroke. It all starts from there
You are correct started rite up. Thank you!! But I still have a random misfire but starts rite up?? I changed a lot of random sensors idk what could be causing it? I noticed the gears on th the distributor are a little warn you can see groves being worn into it would that be a cause??
I bought an aftermarket dizzy i checked the gear before it went in it was the same as the original.. it fired right up everything lined up perfectly still have 1345
i have done everything to mine. about 100 hours time and $$$ in parts..now i am getting p1345... this thing used to be drivable ...now it runs like total shit...how bad was yours running? mine used to idle good and rev pretty good...now it idles like shit and won't rev... thax
Well mine wasn’t running that bad honestly. Mine only ran badly when pulling my camper or on the interstate. BUT I have finally found the problem to all my issues!!!! Mine had two bad exhaust valve seats. It only ran bad under load mind you. But after investigating it fully for the hundredth time it finally showed up at idle. So I started looking at my valves. I had done compression checks and it showed great compression before. This time on two cylinders no compression. I pulled the heads off and they looked fine but took them to a machine shop and had them reworked and after $450 I’m good no miss anymore no lights and I can mash it as hard as it will go and it runs great!!! I hope this helps you!!
@@ancellsadventures Thanks man...i'm done trying to figure it out... dumped so much money and time into it...its a F@@KIN nightmare...Need to take a huge loss and learn from this...first car i was unable to fix thax
I could detail close to 50 years of running across stuff like that. What would you bet some clown discovered that & that's the way they went out . . . on purpose!
All you have to do is take a king flat head scre driver and turn the oil pump one way or the other just a little and the distributor will drop down on the spot.
That will not work. The gear still puts it one tooth ahead or behind the top dead center mark regardless of the oil pump drive position when the gear is installed wrong. Trust me that’s the first thing I tried. That’s why I posted this video it took me quite a while to figure this one out and it’s helped tons of people with the same problem.
@@jermainflournoy7067 Good luck! This may very well help you out this video has helped a bunch of people out already!! Please consider subscribing if you like the video!!
Yes it’s just a roll pin use a small punch and just tap it out. Spin it 180 and tap the pin back in. If your still having issues check out my part two of the video I just made. Tells my story about what I experienced with my truck.
yo también estoy teniendo ese problema me marco código p1345 es correlación con el sensor de árbol de levas y de cigueñal puede ser por desajuste ya del mismo distribuidor o desajuste del tiempo
Man thank you sir. The dumb shit manufacturers do without attaching a tag with this information or placing a white dot on one side. Sucks ass. Great find brother.
I agree 100% but that’s how it goes, if the person who assembles it isn’t paying attention this is what you get. At least this is what I got and apparently so have a lot of other people. I hope this helped you out!
Fought for hours even took it to a shop, finally came across your video. cant believe the gear was out 180 degrees but once i turned it around everything lines up. Thanks ...back on the road
I’m glad it was able to help you out please subscribe and share my channel more videos to come soon
Pison #1 has to be at TDC on the (compression stroke)or it will not line up with the mark on distributor.
This video seriously humbled me. Not sure I ever would have figured this out on my own
Thank you much
I’m glad it helped you out! Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and enjoy what’s to come in the future!!
Just wanna say I am absolutely glad I found your video! I was having the exact same problem tried so many times could not hit the mark. Did what you did and bam first try!! Thanks again
I’m so glad this video helped you! That’s the reason I made it!! Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and thank you for watching!!
Had same issue this week, luckily I found your video. Brand new AC Delco distributor and it wouldn't line up, it was either ahead or behind. I flipped the gear and now its tight on the 6. Thanks for the info.
You really saved me here!!! Was at a loss, but I reversed that gear on my new distributor and now code has not come back. Thank you for sharing your wisdom!!
I’m glad I was able to help you out!
Had rhe same problem with new distributor for my gen 6 454. This was the fix!
You are friggin genius. I had replaced the factory cam with a comp cam & after dozens & dozens of times installing that Dist. I got frustrated. Found ur vid & tried it. Friggin amazing. Today is sunday so tomorrow I will be on the phone with Holley/Comp Cams. Thanks dude.
I’m glad it helped you out! Be sure to subscribe for me if you would.
This is the 180 video I’ve been looking for I knew it was that I looked at the gear and thought the same thing
Well I’m glad you’ve found it and I hope it helps you out!! Thanks for watching!!
I bought an aftermarket distributor 4 my 96 c1500 and my brother in law and his buddy and me spent all Saturday trying to allign and couldn’t. Next day i took your advice and “BLAM”, went in on first try! Thank You for this hack!👍🏻
I’m glad it helped y’all out!!
Thank you, I've been pulling out and dropping in this brand new distributor over and over Now I can fix the stupid POS THANK YOU !
I really hope this helps! Please consider subscribing and thanks for the feedback!!
SON.... You single-handedly saved my day and my sanity! For 9 DAYS, I did and tried every remedy and solution imaginable to put that number 6 in its place and failed.... Til YOUR video and genius.... THANK YOU SO MUCH
I’m so glad to hear it helped you out!! I know how frustrating that is cause I’ve been there. It took me a few hours to figure it out and I knew someone else had to have had that same problem. This video started my UA-cam channel. Please consider subscribing if you haven’t already and share it around maybe it will help others keep their sanity lol. Thanks again and welcome to my channel!!
Great work. I found the same thing on mine for a 5.7 vortec. The cheap replacements get it wrongs, maybe it's 50:50. I've mentioned it in comments to other videos but you're the first to mention it in a video I've seen. Another nice trick is to shim the gear for .010 end play and also it's not a bad idea to add a vent to the cap.
Thank you! Yeah this little video has helped out a lot of people over the years!
Thank you! Customer had put a new gear on and it was backwards just like yours. Had no idea that was something that needed to be checked.
I didn’t either until I ran into this with mine
Very good I am about to drop a new dist inti my 4.3 I will be checking out that gear position before I get in too far thanks
Daaaaanm. I thought I was losing my mind it was just poor quality and assembled parts from Amazon It worked out great hopefully this part will hold me down for a little while👍
Wow - great video and this just happened to me today! all fixed - thank you! I bought the cheepest of cheep distributors and that's what ya get ;-)
3:08 Looking at the hole on dot side of gear vs non dot side of gear you can see the difference, being non dot side aligns on a tooth, dot side aligns between the teeth. So basically they put that indicator dot on the wrong side.. Good catch.
thanks for that! I´ve been struggling with my L29 and I bet this is the solution
I hope this helps you out!
I will add this. I’m not sure if I had mentioned in other comments but I did eventually fix all my issues with mine. I had to rework the heads. My valve seats were bad and it got so bad if would hardly run. After the head job my truck runs like new. It cost me about $450 but it was worth every penny! No more issues with missing and check engine lights!
What got you to conclude it was the head job that needed done though? Compression test?
@@op3crimsin yes the first time I took a compression test it was normal after things really got bad and was missing under normal conditions I retested the compression and two cylinders had zero psi the valves had seized in the open position.
Excellent catch
My problem is exactly like yours
Thanks
summit sells a billet aluminum distributor , those plastic housing distributors crack and break the cap screw tab holes
Haha..wow.. exactly my luck💯🤯 Good job👊😎
WOW, about a year ago my 99 suburban 5.7 had me going nuts having spent hours apon hours/ day after day trying to find top dead-center and drop the distributor in perfectly because you can't just turn the distributor on this year burb. Well after weeks of trying I finally sent it to a shop, well they were pissed too after spending all day on it. Then they took the distributor out of another truck and put it in mine and it started. They were pissed because everyone one in the shop had a go at it only to discover a faulty distributor from the parts store.
It’s definitely hard when the parts you buy don’t come put together properly. And paying attention to the smallest detail sometimes is still not enough! I’ve had cheap parts made overseas come in completely different than the original with no way they would fit the bolt holes were 1/4 off. And getting oem parts are still only as good as the person or machine that put them together!
Mine wasn’t ac delco but I have seen enough to know that it doesn’t matter what brand it is, it depends on the person who put it together and if that person was paying attention to detail that day lol.
You figured it out. Was that an acdelco part? I bet one on rock auto wouldn't do this because it's like 150$ and oem acdelco
Good one!
A$$ saved Thanks!
Glad it helped you out!
Gonna have to try this, but what's weird is that when I couldn't get the new distributor to line up right, I tried reinstalling the old one again, and THAT one wouldn't line up either. Wondering if all these people that have the same problem just had a timing chain that jumped like one tooth or something.
Mine definitely had not jumped timing. I’d say you had movement somewhere after pulling your old distributor. Possibly while trying to install one of the distributors you’ve turned the oil pump just a little and the shaft from the distributor won’t engage it. That’s actually how I found out why mine would not line up I pulled the distributor apart to try and line up the oil pump and after looking at the gear and shaft alignment is when I found the solution. Your old distributor should have fallen back into place when trying to reinstall it. Just a thought
I have a astro van that I have pulled replaced the distribute many time, no problem . Now I have a new van and am try to replace the distribute an it went line up with the 6 an its a new distribute .I can't believe it would b assembled wrong
yes they can be assembled wrong mine was. Drive out the pin and spin the gear 180 degrees and reinstall the pin and it will line up with the six.
THANX
I'm having the same problem with my 4.3. Bought It with the code and It runs perfectly. I've taken the distributor out twice and It come very close to the 6, but It's not dead on the 6 no matter how many times I do It. Crank pulley Is perfectly lined up with the timing marks. Thinking maybe this Is my problem.
Absolutely!
Was it your problem?
(there is a pending code for P1345, blank, diagnosed it and found that this code typically is related to excessive wear in the cam shaft, causing the timing to be incorrect, to correct this issue, he recommends replacing the cam as well as the timing chain components ) what’s the possibility about this being true?
It is a possibility. Mine was caused by bad exhaust valve guides. Had the heads reworked and it solved my issue. However a severely worn cam and or timing gears could cause this to but it would have to be severe I would think.
Most common problem I found was the distributor gear worn almost half of the tooth off which is how I found this issue. I would say I’d be skeptical of this diagnosis but without seeing it I’d be guessing to. Unless he’s turning the crank and seeing lack of movement in the valves I’d say it’s a guess on his part. Just my opinion. Tread carefully my friend
It would make sense because this Sunday I did the oil change there was a bunch of metal flakes at the tip of the oil pan bolt
@@alexis_1503 yeah that’s never good. Large pieces? Super fine stuff is normal but anything larger is really bad sign. How many miles on the engine? It may be time to look at a replacement. If you weigh out the cost of the repairs at a shop you are probably half way to a rebuilt engine.
Like flakes not so big pieces rn it has 157000 miles
Prior to flipping the gear 180...If the distributor is of by a half a tooth either way, will you get a crank no start?
It should not create a no start at a half tooth out. That sounds like you have another problem. Did you have a no start problem prior to messing with the distributor? Or did you try to set the distributor and get the timing off?
@@ancellsadventures I used to have to take off the cap and rotor every month or so to scrub off the carbon build up and corrosion or to just install a new cap and rotor. But the screw hole in the distributor became corroded and spit out the screw holding the rotor. So now I'm trying to swap out the distributor. It seems like I'm experiencing the same thing u were having with the rotor not lining up perfectly. When I get it installed and lined up as good as I can (looks to be off a little in either direction) and it's laying flat. I get a crank no start.
@@BPakesi and you started at top dead center on number one? Sounds like you need to knock the pin out as I’ve shown and spin the gear 180 degrees but I can’t see it one tooth off either way causing a no start. Is the electrical connection the same?
@@ancellsadventures I've followed what I saw on line by lining up the notches on the harmonic balancer with the required spots to the best that I could. The connector on the new distributor looked the same as the old one and felt like it seated properly when it was installed. I'll try again and flip the gear 180. But I'm worried something else is wrong if I'm already getting a crank no start. Thanks for the advice.
@@BPakesi here’s my advice of where to go from here. Start fresh. Realign your timing marks. Top dead center on the compression stroke. You can check by removing the spark plug and placing your finger over the plug hole while someone turns the engine over with a ratchet or breaker bar. If your on the exhaust stroke when you start you will already be 180 out on the crank. Since it ran prior to the new distributor install I’d say you have the timing way off. There should be a good video of how to time an engine from start to finish on UA-cam. I’ve never seen a tooth or even two create a no start before it may run like shit but generally it would pop and run rough as hell and possibly cut off but it would at least start. If you are way out on the timing say 180 on the crank you would be firing number one cylinder on the top end of the exhaust stroke which will result in a no start every cylinder would be firing on the exhaust stroke for that matter. I’m not sure if this is your problem but that’s where I’d start. Go back to the beginning and start fresh. I hope this helps you out!!
That plus here's another one for you how about wrong gear angle on 2 from different companies that I went through plus on backwards
Wow that’s a whole new level of screwed up! And thanks for subscribing!!
This may have done save my ass it's the only one I found with this info
I hope this helps!! Please consider subscribing, thanks for watching!!
I purchased a 97 c 1500 4.3 vortec and the truck was miss firing random. Took the distributor cap off and the metal prong was 180 off the #6 mark. Made sure truck was TDC and so took it out put it at 6 mark with switching the gear around. And it’s on 6 but now the truck won’t even start now. ? I’m lost.
I’m not sure you had it on top dead center on the compression stroke. It was probably on the exhaust stroke. You need to get it back to number one on top dead center on the compression stroke and check to see where the rotor is pointing and go from there. If you have some help pull the number one spark plug carefully have someone bump it over until you feel it blow air out the plug hole and that will tell you if it’s the compression stroke
I pulled the plug and when you look in to the hole you can see the piston head and the lines on the balancer lined up ?
Yeah but like I was saying you have to make sure it’s the compression stroke the piston comes up on the compression stroke and the exhaust stroke. If you time it on the exhaust stroke it will be off to far to run. You could also pull the valve cover off and rotate the motor until it’s on top dead center and both rocker arms are up that would tell you it’s the compression stroke. It all starts from there
Okay I’ll try that and see what’s going on. Thank you I’ll let you know how it goes
You are correct started rite up. Thank you!! But I still have a random misfire but starts rite up?? I changed a lot of random sensors idk what could be causing it? I noticed the gears on th the distributor are a little warn you can see groves being worn into it would that be a cause??
I bought an aftermarket dizzy i checked the gear before it went in it was the same as the original.. it fired right up everything lined up perfectly still have 1345
Is it missing or just showing the code?
It actually cleared itself. Of course now I have a vacuum leak
@@scootersonlyrepair6773 should be pretty easy to find with some carb cleaner
i have done everything to mine. about 100 hours time and $$$ in parts..now i am getting p1345... this thing used to be drivable ...now it runs like total shit...how bad was yours running? mine used to idle good and rev pretty good...now it idles like shit and won't rev... thax
Well mine wasn’t running that bad honestly. Mine only ran badly when pulling my camper or on the interstate. BUT I have finally found the problem to all my issues!!!! Mine had two bad exhaust valve seats. It only ran bad under load mind you. But after investigating it fully for the hundredth time it finally showed up at idle. So I started looking at my valves. I had done compression checks and it showed great compression before. This time on two cylinders no compression. I pulled the heads off and they looked fine but took them to a machine shop and had them reworked and after $450 I’m good no miss anymore no lights and I can mash it as hard as it will go and it runs great!!! I hope this helps you!!
@@ancellsadventures Thanks man...i'm done trying to figure it out... dumped so much money and time into it...its a F@@KIN nightmare...Need to take a huge loss and learn from this...first car i was unable to fix thax
Can this be done on a v8 97
Yes it can!
I could detail close to 50 years of running across stuff like that. What would you bet some clown discovered that & that's the way they went out . . . on purpose!
All you have to do is take a king flat head scre driver and turn the oil pump one way or the other just a little and the distributor will drop down on the spot.
That will not work. The gear still puts it one tooth ahead or behind the top dead center mark regardless of the oil pump drive position when the gear is installed wrong. Trust me that’s the first thing I tried. That’s why I posted this video it took me quite a while to figure this one out and it’s helped tons of people with the same problem.
I'm dealing with the same problem right now on a savana 5.7 vortec I'm going to try and see if it work's out for me Thanks
@@jermainflournoy7067 Good luck! This may very well help you out this video has helped a bunch of people out already!! Please consider subscribing if you like the video!!
You know what!
I thought the same thing!!
Can i really just punch that pin out?
Yes it’s just a roll pin use a small punch and just tap it out. Spin it 180 and tap the pin back in. If your still having issues check out my part two of the video I just made. Tells my story about what I experienced with my truck.
Yeah I had a shop do mine and now I have the fucking code
Yeah that sucks!
Hey tuve el mismo problema y. Era. Que el distribuidor. New. No servía cuidado. Los distribuidores. Nuevos. Hay. Veces. No. Sirven.
gracias por mirar mis videos por favor y subscríbete para ver mas!
yo también estoy teniendo ese problema me marco código p1345 es correlación con el sensor de árbol de levas y de cigueñal puede ser por desajuste ya del mismo distribuidor o desajuste del tiempo
Audio recorded with a broken bolt
I’m not sure what you’re implying 🤔 but thanks for watching!
Man thank you sir. The dumb shit manufacturers do without attaching a tag with this information or placing a white dot on one side. Sucks ass. Great find brother.
I’m glad it helped you out!! Thanks for watching!!
تمام
Honestly, thats just bad design. You shouldn't be able to assemble it incorrectly---especially if the wrong orientation isn't 100% obvious...
I agree 100% but that’s how it goes, if the person who assembles it isn’t paying attention this is what you get. At least this is what I got and apparently so have a lot of other people. I hope this helped you out!
Ah ha thanks. Buy a chilling manual screw UA-cam or a real shop manuals
If that gear on the distributor is all messed up just imagine what the matching gear looks like.🤔