4.3 Vortec V-6 General Motors distributor and cap problems
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- Опубліковано 2 лют 2022
- 4.3 General Motors Vortec V-6 engine distributor problems. Corrosion under the cap and plugged vents. AC Delco and Standard Motor Products caps are identical. For an easy way to align this distributor when re-installing it, see this video . . • Homemade oil pump alig...
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My 1500 van with the 4.3 vortec had this problem. I knocked the screens out and that was 14 years ago. No more problem since then.
Thank you for the video. Very educational and explained thoroughly.
The white powder is no corrosion, it's the plastic core of the cheap replacement terminals. Accel orNGK make solid metal( brass) terminals in their distributor caps. The only other problem withe these distributors wear on the gear and thrust bearing on the shafts. At about 130k to 150k the accumulated wear puts the rotor position out of phase to the primary trigger timing. Since thr secondary circuit is mechanical& the primary is timed electronically off the crank sensor the event occurs out of position and jumps backhand forth. It's most notable at idle with random misfires. If I had to do it all over again I would just replace the distributor, wires& plugs at tune up time every 120k or so. Oh and Icm and coil too.
Excellent video, I’m gonna have to replace the distributor on my 02 blazer ZR2 4.3 soon, I’ve put it off long enough buy throwing new distributor caps at it every couple years. I personally think these distributors were a design flaw from GM, everyone I’ve talked with that owns a 4.3 has gone through this problem lol, i love my old blazer and at least I can work on it.
Thank you, and I agree about the design flaw. Look for my other video that shows a very simple installation tool. It could save a lot of hassle.
@@LarryCook1960 I certainly will and thanks man.
I have rebuilt about 4 distributors. Up and down movement is always a stopper. Next wire pattern and connection to coil members. Also any insulation always kept. Next MANUFACTURE FLAW CORRECTION.
Mixed up the cap and the rotor when you pointed them out in the beginning. Thanks for the vid though
Yeah, I saw that, but hoped nobody would catch it.
@@LarryCook1960 probably was only 1 person who caught it :)
Drill out the screens and get a moroso shim kit. You want to have 0.010-0.015 end play. The shims take a little fitting. Too much end plan and new cheap rotors leads to the center breaking off. If I lived in a humid area I would add a vent to the cap. It wouldn't be a bad idea to take the cap off and clean it out every year or two.
Wouldn't drilling out the holes and adding a vent make it worse, don't you want to keep the humidity and dampness out of the distributor? I'm having the problem with my vehicle shutting off while driving on a damp rainy or humid day.
If you're terminals on the cap and the rotor are covered in white corrosion clean them or better yet change them. Look for arcing through the cap. Adding venting will help to avoid the corrosion caused by ozone generated by the arcs. The AC hose can drip water on your cap if you're in high humidity areas. adding insulation to the ac line will stop that. @@jamesrobert782
Is there a way to clean that screen, or 2 screens without removing the distributor ?
Like a small rubber hose adapted to a vacuum ?
I'm thinking of avoiding the problem of needing realignment if / when replacing the distributor after cleaning the screen.
Heck, I couldn't even see those screens on my 2006 Sierra, due to the distributor being under the cowl and quite low. Maybe yours is different. I have another video on how to easily line up the oil pump shaft with the distributor during re-installation, if needed. It's not that hard to R&R the distributor.
Could this trigger random missfire? I'm trying to figure this missfire like "forever", new cap, coil, wires, sparks and still P300 ... I will have to check these holes as you show in the video. The distributor is the one from factory and the van has 233k now.
That's a lot of miles, twice as many as mine had. The distributor bearings and seal could be mighty tired by now. The ignition module too. If you buy a new distributor, like I did, I have another video that shows a homemade tool for easier installation.
around 2:20....is there some measurement for acceptable end play ?
Also, is wobble a different problem from end play. ?
And can both of those problems be detected by a diagnostic scan of some sensors before taking things apart?
Hmmm, my engine had no codes, even though it wouldn't start. Wobble would be radial play, and end play would be axial I reckon. I would just replace the distributor if you're having misfire issues. It and the cap are known problems, plus you get a new module too.
@@LarryCook1960 had 2 diag. scans done for a misfire goes from random to cyl #3. 1st guy said dist has excessive play in distributor.
2nd guy said many MF in #3, and also less MF in 3 other cyl.
2 have no MF
Also running lean...P0171 and P0174
Said to replace fuel injectors.
Experienced insight appreciated.
@@crabapple6775 If it were my vehicle, I would go after the ignition first. You're at the point where it's time to replace something, and the cap and/or distributor should be high on your list based on what both guys said. As for injectors, get the spark fixed and then move on to fuel. I'm not a mechanic, but can imagine a poor spark causing the O2 sensors to see problems. Also, read the comment by @markschmalenberger8301. I'm not aware of a plastic core in dist cap terminals, but the rest of what he says makes a lot of sense.
Thanx
Can this cause a tapping noise in the engine almost like a bad lifer tick sound
Theoretically, yeah, I guess it could. If the engine speed was changing, I can imagine a distributor clicking if the bearings are worn. I've heard exhaust leaks that make clicking and knocking sounds too.
No it will not.
Check the ignition module ....
Yeah, that could have been an issue as well, but the shaft had a lot of play, and the replacement distributor came with a module.
What causes a vacuum leak
Air seeping in to an area of lower pressure. Why do you ask?
I got one but I think my distributor is bad on my 1993 GMC vandura because cranks no start
Re: those holes @ 1:10
so what am I supposed to do to keep the screens clear ?
The way I see it, this distributor has a lifespan of 100,000 miles, and in my opinion, should just be replaced that often. The holes, the bearings, seals at the bearings, and plastic body just seems to wear out. I have another video that shows an easy method for re-installing this distributor, since there's a definite trick to it. ua-cam.com/video/gGvIGvwdBg4/v-deo.html
Ill never buy anything other than a ac- delco cap...it's the only one i haven't had no starts on humid and or rainy days...